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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2019  with  funding  frorrf 
University  of  Illinois  Urbana-Champaign 


https://archive.org/details/gazetteerofstate00beck_0 


A 


GAZETTEER 

OF 

THE  STATES 


OF 


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CONTAINING 


A  GENERAL  VIEW  OF  EACH  STATE — A  GENERAL  VIEW  OF 
THEIR  COUNTIES — AND  A  PARTICULAR  DESCRIPTION 
OF  THEIR  TOWNS,  VILLAGES,  RIVERS,  &C.  &C. 


WITH  A  MAP,  AND  OTHER  ENGRAVINGS. 


BY  LEWIS  C.  RECK,  A.  M. 

'I EMBER.  OF  THE  SEW-YOKK  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY,  ASH  OF  TtfF 
JiEW-YORK  LYCEUM  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY. 


ALBANY: 

* 

PRINTED  BY  CHARLES  R.  AND  GEORGE  WEBSTER, 

At  their  Bookstore,  corner  of  State  and  Pearl -streets. 


1325. 


Northern  District  of  New -Fork,  to  wit : 

BE  it  remembered,  That  on  the  first  day  of  January,  ill  the  forty-seventh  year 
of  the  independence  of  the  United  States  of  America,  A.  D.  1823,  Lewis  C. 
Beck,  A.  M.  of  the  said  district  has  deposited  in  this  office  the  title  of  a  Book,  the 
right  whereof  he  claims  as  Author,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit: 

4  A  Gazetteer  of  the  States  of  Illinois  and  Missouri:  containing  a  general  view 
of  each  state;  a  generat  view  of  their  counties,  and  a  particular  description  of 
the;r  towns,  villages,  rivers,  &c.  &.c. ;  with  a  map,  and  other  engravings.  By  Lewis  C.  Beck,  A.  M. 
Member  of  the  New- York  Historical  Society,  and  of  the  New-York  Lyceum  of  Natural  History.” 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled  “An  act  for  the  encourage¬ 
ment  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts  and  books  to  the  authors  and  proprietors 
ot  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein  mentioned and  also  to  the  act  entitled  “  An  act  supple¬ 
mentary  to  an  act  entitled  4  An  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of 
jtt*jps,  charts  and  books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein 
y.entione.i,’  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  designing,  engraving,  and  etching 
■historical  and  other  prints.” 

1  R.  R.  LANSING,  Cleric 

of  the  Northern  District  of  Nczc-York 


j 


^ 

'  • 


/ 


The  growing  importance  of  the  states  of  Illinois  and 
Missouri — their  mineral  and  vegetable  riches — the  fact 
that  numbers  are  in  different  ways  interested  in  their 
prosperity,  and  that  in  our  country,  a  correct  knowledge 
of  its  component  parts  is  necessary  to  all  classes  and  de¬ 
scriptions  of  its  citizens,  are  my  apologies  for  appearing 
before  the  public. 

Under  the  impression,  that  a  more  detailed  description 
of  these  states  than  had  hitherto  been  published,  would 
be  useful,  and  perhaps  interesting,  I  commenced,  shortly 
after  my  removal  to  Missouri  in  1819,  the  collection  of 
materials  for  the  present  work.  I  travelled  over  a  con¬ 
siderable  portion  of  these  states,  and  became  acquainted 
with  a  number  of  intelligent  gentlemen,  residing  in  dif¬ 
ferent  parts  of  them,  who  afforded  me  much  assistance  in 
the  prosecution  of  my  design.  The  different  state  officers, 
also,  were  so  obliging  as  to  allow  me  the  privilege  of 
perusing  many  valuable  documents  in  their  offices,  and 
making  such  extracts  from  them  as  I  desired.  By  these 
means  I  acquired  the  greater  part  of  the  information 
which  is  contained  in  the  following  pages.  In  the  mean 
time,  my  visit  to  New- York  gave  me  an  opportunity  of 
consulting  many  works  which  I  was  elsewhere  unable  to 
obtain.  In  the  very  valuable  library  of  the  Historical 
Society,  to  which  I  had  access,  I  found,  with  few  excep¬ 
tions,  all  the  earlier,  as  well  as  modern  authors  who 


VI 


PREFACE. 


treated  of  that  part  of  Louisiana  and  the  western  country, 
now  the  states  of  Illinois  and  Missouri.  Although  these 
works  for  the  most  part  consisted  of  the  narrations  of 
travellers  or  general  descriptions,  they  afforded  me  the 
means  of  comparing  my  own  observations,  and  of  adding 
their  descriptions  of  such  places  as  I  had  either  neglected, 
or  had  been  unable  to  visit.  From  the  works  of  Mar¬ 
quette,  Hennepin,  Tonti,  and  Charlevoix,  I  obtained 
many  interesting  facts  concerning  the  history  of  these 
states,  which  I  have  presented  in  a  condensed  form. 
From  the  more  recent  works  of  Stoddard,  Brackenridge, 
the  travels  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  Pike,  and  Bradbury,  I 
have  also  derived  much  assistance.  In  treating  of  the 
lead  mines  and  minerals  of  Missouri,  I  have  constantly 
referred  to  the  66  View  of  the  Lead  Mines  of  Mis¬ 
souri,”  published  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft  in  1820. 

As  my  object  was  to  present  a  comprehensive  view  of 
all  that  is  at  present  known  concerning  these  states,  I 
also  consulted  several  valuable  papers  which  fell  within 
the  scope  of  my  plan,  contained  in  the  American  Journal 
of  Science  and  the  Arts,  edited  by  Professor  Silliman. 

The  map  which  is  prefixed  to  this  work,  was  protract¬ 
ed  from  manuscript  surveys  obtained  at  St.  Louis  and 
Vandalia,  to  which  I  made  such  additions  as  were  from 
time  to  time  received  through  the  kindness  of  my  friends. 
The  county  boundaries  in  Missouri,  are  the  result  of  a 
laborious  examination  of  all  the  territorial  and  state 
laws  on  the  subject,  to  the  present  year. 

The  map  of  St.  Louis  contains  a  plan  of  the  fortifica¬ 
tion  proposed  for  its  defence  in  1780,  by  Lieut.  Colonel 
Crusat,  which  I  found  in  the  possession  of  one  of  the  old 


PREFACE. 


•  • 
Vll 

inhabitants  of  that  place.  I  have  also  added  a  plan  of 
the  ancient  works  in  the  vicinity,  from  actual  survey,  in 
which  I  was  assisted  by  W.  S.  Hamilton,  Esquire,  of 
Illinois. 

The  kindness  and  hospitality  with  which  I  have  every 
where  been  treated  while  travelling  through  these  states, 
and  particularly  at  St.  Louis  and  Yandalia,  and  the 
promptness  with  which  their  citizens  have  always  fur¬ 
nished  me  with  such  information  as  they  possessed,  de¬ 
serve  my  warmest  thanks.  I  shall  ever  fondly  cherish 
the  recollection,  although  it  is  mingled  with  pain,  that 
many  of  those  who  took  the  deepest  and  most  lively  in¬ 
terest  in  the  success  of  this  work,  are  now  numbered  with 
the  dead. 

Although  the  Gazetteer  has  engaged  my  attention 
nearly  three  years,  and  no  labour  has  been  spared  to 
render  it  accurate,  I  am  not  so  sanguine  as  to  suppose 
that  it  is  entirely  free  from  errors.  But  when  the  candid 
reader  reflects,  that  the  states  which  are  here  treated  of 
are  as  yet  but  thinly  populated,  and  have  been  but  par¬ 
tially  explored,  he  will  be  fully  sensible  of  the  difficulties 
I  had  to  contend  with,  and  I  doubt  not  will  extend  his 
indulgence  accordingly. 


*  • 

rv 


,-r# 


rr  ■ 


DIRECTIONS  TO  THE  BINDER. 


Map  of  Illinois  and  Missouri  to  face  the  title  page. 


Plate  I.  to  face 
Plate  II. 

Plate  III. 
Plate  IV. 
Plate  Y. 


Page  110 
163 
306 
326 
330 


ERRATA. 

In  pa ge  1 1 1, 1 8th  line  from  the  bottom,  for  «  Captain  Bradford,”  read  Lieut.  Col.  McNtal. 

In  page  306, 14th  line  from  the  top,  for  M  a  large  room  Trailed  with  two  entrances,”  read  a  large 
room  with  two  entrances. 


, 

' 


* 


.  . 


- 

! 


•  -  *  :■ 

, 

* 


. 

-  • 

* 


GENERAL  VIEW  OP  ILLINOIS. 


13 


water  is  clear  and  limpid,  and  the  current  gentle.  Below,  it  is 
every  where  obstructed  by  immense  islands  and  sand  bars,  and 
its  banks  present  on  every  side  extensive  and  fertile  alluvions  ; 
the  water  is  muddy,  and  the  current  impetuous.  In  fine,  it  may 
be  said  to  assume  in  every  respect  the  character  of  the  Missouri. 
But  as  a  change  of  names,  though  ever  so  correct,  would  at  this 
late  day  introduce  much  confusion,  and  produce  no  beneficial 
results,  it  would  be  unwise  to  attempt  it. 

The  Mississippi  river  is  from  \  to  1  mile  in  width,  and  in  its 
course  is  obstructed  by  few  falls  or  rapids.  The  current  is  ge¬ 
nerally  from  2  to  4  miles  an  hour,  varying  according  to  the 
height  of  the  water.  The  mean  descent  of  the  river  is  nearly  6 
inches  per  mile  ;*  its  sources,  which  are  about  3030  miles  above 
its  mouth,  being  elevated  about  1330  above  the  level  of  tide  water. 
The  annual  inundation  takes  place  about  May  or  June,  and  the 
water  rises  from  10  to  50  feet  throughout  its  whole  course,  by 
which  means  the  extensive  bottoms  which  have  been  formed  from 
time  to  time  are  continually  fertilized.  Some  of  these,  as  has  been 
already  observed,  are  very  extensive,  especially  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri.  The  most  extensive  and  fertile  within  the  li¬ 
mits  of  this  state,  is  the  American  Bottom ,  a  name  which  it  re¬ 
ceived  when  it  constituted  a  part  of  the  western  boundary  of  the 
United  States,  and  which  it  has  ever  since  retained.  It  com¬ 
mences  at  the  confluence  of  the  Kaskaskia  river,  and  extends 
northwardly  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  being  bounded  on  the 
east  by  a  chain  of  bluffs,  w  hich  in  some  places  are  sandy,  and 
in  others  rocky,  and  vary  from  50  to  200  feet  in  height.  This 
bottom  is  about  100  miles  in  length,  and  comprises  an  area  of 
more  than  500  square  miles,  or  320,000  square  acres.  On  the 

*Mr.  Schoolcraft,  in  his  “Narrative  Journal,”  estimates  the  mean  descent  of  the  Mississippi 
river  at  2  feet  2  8-10  inches  per  mile ;  a  conclusion  which  I  think  is  not  warranted  by  the  premises 
he  has  previously  laid  down. 

I  cannot  omit  noticing  a  remark  made  upon  this  subject  by  the  reviewer  of  Mr.  Schoolcraft’s 
Journal.  It  is  as  follows:  “  Mr.  Schoolcraft  lias  attempted  (o  estimate  the  height  of  the  sources  of 
the  Mississippi  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  which  he  makes  to  be  thirteen  hundred  and  thirty  feet. 
The  basis  of  bis  calculation  is  tbc  altitude  of  Lake  Erie,  as  determined  by  tlie  canal  commissioners, 
which  is  five  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the  tide  waters  of  the  Hudson,  to  which  his  estimate 
adds  ten  feet  for  the  rise  to  St.  Clair,  nineteen  to  Huron,  fifty-three  to  Superior,  making  the  last 
six  hundred  and  forty-two  above  the  same  level;  from  this  to  Sandy  lake,  the  rise  is  five  hundred 
and  twenty-seven  feet,  and  from  that  to  Cassina  one  hundred  and  sixty-tw  o  fepl.  If  this  estimate 
be  correct,  or  nearly  so,  and  the  length  of  the  Mississippi  as  he  gives  it,  three  thousand  and  thirty, 
eight  miles,  its  average  descent  per  mile  is  about  three  feet.” — North  American  Review ,  No.  36. 

It  is  difficult  to  determine  by  what  course  of  calculation  the  reviewer  arrived  at  the  result  here 
given,  which  should  have  been ab«ut  6  inches, ^instead  of  “about  three  feet.” 


14 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


margin  of  the  river  is  a  strip  of  heavy  timber,  with  a  rank  un¬ 
dergrowth  ;  this  extends  from  §  to  2  miles,  and  from  thence  to 
the  bluffs  is  generally  prairie.  No  soil  can  exceed  this  in  fer¬ 
tility,  many  parts  of  it  having  been  under  cultivation  for  more 
than  a  century,  without  the  least  apparent  deterioration  The 
oidy  objection  that  can  be  offered  to  lids  tract,  is  its  unhealthi¬ 
ness  This  arises  from  the  circumstance  of  the  lands  dircc  tly 
on  the  margin  of  the  river  being  higher  than  those  under  the 
bluffs,  where  the  water,  after  leaving  the  former  subsides  and 
forms  ponds  and  lagoons,  which,  during  the  summer,  stagnate, 
and  throw  off  noxious  effluvia.  These  however,  might  at  a 
trifling  expense,  be  drained  by  lateral  canals  communicating 
with  the  river.  An  act  was  passed  by  the  legislature  in  1819, 
authorising  a  lottery  for  the  purpose  of  raising  funds  to  ac¬ 
complish  this  object  ;  but  no  measures  have  as  .vet  been  taken 
to  put  it  into  execution.  It  is  to  he  feared  that  the  advantages 
which  would  arise  from  it,  would  be  more  than  counterbalanced 
by  the  evils  attendant  upon  this  iniquitous,  although  licensed 
system  of  gambling. 

The  first  settlement  of  this  state  was  commenced  upon  the 
tract  of  land  above  described,  and  its  uncommon  fertility  gave 
emigrants  a  favourable  idea  of  the  whole  country.  The  French 
having  hardy  constitutions,  were  little  affected  by  the  miasma, 
and  generally  enjoyed  good  health.  The  villages  of  Kaskaskia, 
Prairie  du  Rocher  and  Cahokia,  were  built  up  by  their  industry 
in  places  where  Americans  would  have  perished.  Cultivation 
has,  no  doubt,  rendered  this  tract  more  salubrious  than  former¬ 
ly  ;  and  an  increase  of  it,  together  with  the  construction  of  drains 
and  canals,  will  make  it  one  of  the  most  eligible  in  the  States. 
The  old  inhabitants  advise  the  emigrants  not  to  plant  corn  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  their  dwellings,  as  its  rich  and  massy 
foliage  prevents  the  sun  from  dispelling  the  deleterious  vapours. 

Coal ,  exists  in  abundance  on  this  alluvion  and  the  bluffs  which 
bound  it.  Its  first  discovery  was  made  in  a  very  singular  man¬ 
ner.  Many  years  since,  a  tree  taking  fire,  communicated  to  its 
roots,  which  continued  burning  for  some  time.  Upon  examina¬ 
tion,  they  were  found  to  communicate  with  a  bed  of  coal,  which 
continued  to  burn  until  the  fire  was  completely  smothered  by  the 
falling  in  of  a  large  mass  of  incumbent  earth.  The  appearance 
of  fire  is  still  evident  for  a  considerable  distance.  About  two 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


15 


miles  from  this  pi  are  a  coal  bank  has  been  opened — the  vein  is 
as  thick  as  any  at  Pittsburg.* 

Besides  the  American  Bottom  above  mentioned,  there  are  oth¬ 
ers  which  resemble  it  in  its  general  characters,  but  which  are 
much  less  extensive.  In  many  places,  however,  the  banks  of 
tin  river  are  high  and  perfectly  secure  from  inundation,  here 
having  a  gradual  ascent,  and  there  presenting  perpendicular 
ledges  of  rock,  surmounted  with  a  starved  growth  of  cedars. 

The  most  prominent  characteristic  of  the  Mississippi  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  is  the  peculiar  colour  of  the  water, 
occasioned  by  the  sand  which  it  contains.  It  is  owing  to  this 
circumstance  that  bars' are  so  frequently  ami  so  suddenly  form¬ 
ed.  Whenever  the  current  is  partially  obstructed  from  any  lo¬ 
cal  cause,  the  consequence  is  that  a  portion  of  sand  is  deposited  ; 
and  this  again  increases  the  obstruction,  and  consequently  the 
deposition  of  sand.  In  this  way  immense  bars  are  frequently 
formed  in  one  season,  and  swept  away  the  next.  It  is  supposed 
by  many  that  the  water  of  this  stream  is  medicinal,  and  hence 
it  is  very  common  to  see  the  old  inhabitants  drinking  it  daily, 
impregnated  as  it  is  with  filth  and  sand.  When  cleared  and 
cooled  with  ice,  it  has  a  pleasant  taste,  without  the  rankness  of 
the  Ohio  or  Illinois  waters. 

The  Mississippi  is  obstructed  by  planters ,  sawyers ,  and 
wooden  islands ,  which  are  frequently  the  cause  of  injury  and 
even  destruction  to  the  boats  which  navigate  it.  Planters ,  are 
large  bodies  of  trees  firmly  fixed  by  their  roots  in  the  bottom  of 
the  river  in  a  perpendicular  manner,  and  appearing  no  more 
than  about  one  foot  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  when  at  its 
medium  height.  So  firmly  are  they  rooted,  that  the  largest 
hoars  running  against  them  will  not  move  them  ;  but  on  the 
contrary  they  materially  injure  the  boats,  lawyers,  are  likewise 
large  bodies  of  trees  fixed  less  perpendicularly  in  the  river,  and 
rather  of  a  less  size,  yielding  to  the  pressure  of  the  current,  dis¬ 
appearing  and  appearing  at  intervals,  and  having  a  motion  sim¬ 
ilar  to  the  saw  of  a  saw  mill,  from  which  they  have  taken  their 
name.  Wooden  Islands  are  places  where,  by  some  cause  or  oth¬ 
er,  large  quantities  of  driftwood  have  been  arrested  and  matted 


*  Bracken  ridge’s  View  ef  Louisiana- 


16 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


together  in  different  parts  of  the  river.*  Formerly,  these  were 
the  cause  of  heavy  losses  to  the  merchant,  and  danger  to  the 
traveller.  But  since  the  introduction  of  steam  boats  accidents 
rarely  occur.  More  than  100  of  these  vessels  are  now  in  opera¬ 
tion  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries ;  an  incontestible 
proof  of  the  enterprize  of  the  western  Americans. 

The  principal  branches  of  the  Mississippi  running  through 
this  state,  are  Rock,  the  Illinois,  Kaskaskia  and  Muddy  rivers. 

The  Ohio  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Alleghany  and  Mo- 
nongahela  rivers,  and  after  running  a  W.  S\V.  course  about 
1100  miles,  empties  into  the  Mississippi,  in  lat.  37°  N.  It 
meanders  through  a  pleasant  and  fertile  country,  and  is  from  4 
to  600  yards  in  width,  to  near  its  confluence  with  the  Mississip¬ 
pi,  where  it  is  about  1000.  This  stream  has  been  called  the 
most  beautiful  in  the  world,  and  is  justly  entitled  to  the  name  of 
66  La  belle  Riviere”  originally  given  to  it  by  the  French.  From 
the  mouth  of  the  Wabash  to  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi, 
a  distance  of  nearly  £00  miles,  the  right  bank  of  the  Ohio  forms 
the  southern  boundary  of  the  state.  In  this  distance,  its  banks 
are  generally  low  and  subject  to  inundation,  but  very  fertile. — 
These  inundations,  as  on*the  Mississippi,  are  fruitful  sources  of 
disease,  and  effectual  barriers  against  improvement.  There  are 
however,  a  few  elevated  situations  which  afford  good  town  sites, 
and  which  must  become  places  of  considerable  importance.  It 
is  much  to  be  regretted,  that  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ohio  and 
Mississippi,  there  is  an  extensive  recently  formed  alluvion, 
which  is  annually  inundated,  and  which  cannot,  without  im¬ 
mense  expense,  be  made  an  eligible  town  site.  At  the  mouth  of 
the  Wabash,  the  land  is  similarly  situated.  Below  this,  no 
streams  of  any  considerable  size  empty  into  the  Ohio  within 
this  state.  The  largest  are  Saline  and  Cash  rivers,  and  Big 
Bay  Creek. 

The  Wabash  rises  in  the  northern  part  of  Indiana,  and  run¬ 
ning  first  a  southwest  and  then  a  south  course,  empties  into  the 
Ohio  nearly  200  miles  above  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi. 
It  is  a  beautiful  stream,  about  600  miles  in  length,  with  but  one 
considerable  fall  or  rapid,  which  is  near  the  junction  of  White 

*  See  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Navigator,  where  valuable  directions  are  given  for  avoiding  these 

obstructions. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


11 


liver,  below  Vincennes.  In  low  water,  it  obstructs  the  naviga¬ 
tion  very  considerably.  An  act  was  passed  in  1819,  to  raise 
funds  for  the  purpose  of  improving  the  navigation  at  this  place, 
by  means  of  a  canal. 

For  more  than  200  miles,  the  Wabash  forms  the  eastern  boun¬ 
dary  of  the  state.  The  character  of  the  lands  bordering  on  it, 
is  similar  to  that  on  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  although  the  al¬ 
luvions  of  the  Wabash  are  more  extensive,  and  the  inundations 
more  formidable,  in  many  places  on  its  hanks,  the  soil  is  of 
such  a  nature  as  to  render  travelling  extremely  dangerous  when 
it  has  been  recently  inundated.  The  surface  appears  perfectly 
safe  and  solid,  hut  it  is  supported  only  by  strata  of  quicksand  of 
gr  eat  depth,  into  which  it  is  dangerous  to  sink.  The  bottoms 
of  the  Wabash  are  an  intermixture  of  prairie  and  woodland. 

The  principal  tributaries  of  the  W  abash  in  this  state,  are  the 
Vermilion,  Em  harass  and  Little  Wabash  rivers.  The  head 
waters  of  the  Wabash  approach  within  a  short  distance  of  St. 
Joseph  of  the  Lakes,  and  it  is  proposed  to  unite  them  by 
means  of  a  canal.  It  is  said  the  expence  would  be  trifling  in 
compar  ison  to  the  advantages  which  would  arise  from  it. 

It  will  at  mice  he  observed,  that  this  state  possesses  great  ad¬ 
vantages  in  regard  to  water  communication,  being  bounded  on 
thi  •ee  sides  by  those  noble  streams  above  described.  By  these 
means,  she  has  a  constant  intercourse  with  every  part  of  the  im¬ 
mense  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  But  the  interior  is  also  inter¬ 
sected  in  various  directions  by  large  navigable  streams,  which 
afford  every  facility  of  transportation  from  one  part  of  the  state 
to  the  other.  The  largest  and  most  important  of  these  is  ihe 
one  from  which  this  state  received  its  name,  and  upon  whose 
b  anks  the  settlement  of  the  western  country  w  as  first  commenc¬ 
ed. 

The  Illinois  river  is  formed  by  the  union  of  the  Des  Plaines 
and  Theakiki  rivers,  and  after  running  a  west  <  nurse  about  80 
miles,  changes  to  southwest  and  south,  and  empties  into  the 
Mississippi,  about  25  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri. — 
Above  the  mouth  of  Vermilion  river,  it  is  much  obstructed  by 
rapids;  below  this  the  current  is  gentle,  and  the  navigation) 
good  during  the  whole  summer.  At  Fort  Clark,  about  200 
miles  above  its  mouth,  it  expands  into  a  beautiful  lake  about  20 


18 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


miles  in  length,  and  from  \  to  2  miles  in  width,  called  Lake  Pe - 
oria.  The  banks  of  the  Illinois  are  uniformly  low  as  far  up  as 
the  mouth  of  Spoon  river,  particularly  on  the  west  side.  The 
alluvions  are  bounded  by  bluffs,  which  frequently  consist  of  per¬ 
pendicular  ledges  of  rock  from  2  to  500  feet  in  height.  Some¬ 
times  they  approach  very  near  to  the  river,  and  present  a  very 
picturesque  appearance. 

The  Illinois  has  proportionally  a  less  number  of  islands  than 
any  of  the  western  rivers,  and  is  seldom  obstructed  by  bars.  In 
many  places  the  banks  are  elevated,  and  present  the  most  beau¬ 
tiful  town  sites,  being  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  the  most  fertile 
lands.  Coal  is  very  abundant  on  this  stream,  and  is  valuable 
on  account  of  the  scarcity  of  timber.  Small  masses  of  copper 
have  also  been  found  in  various  places  upon  the  banks  ;  but 
they  are  always  detached,  and  afford  no  evidence  of  any  quanti¬ 
ty  of  that  mineral  in  the  vicinity.  Large  rounded  masses  of 
primitive  locks  arc  also  scattered  along  its  banks,  and  on  the 
prairies  of  the  interior. 

Along  the  course  of  this  l  iver  are.  a  number  of  lakes,  which 
communicate  with  it,  and  without  great  care  and  attention,  mis¬ 
lead  those  who  navigate  it.  They  may  be  known  by  having  less 
current  than  t he  river,  and  generally  in  being  of  a  much  greater 
width.  The  lauds  near  the  bluffs  being  lower  than  on  the  im¬ 
mediate  bank  of  the  river,  extensive  ponds  are  also  formed^ 
Which  here,  as  elsewhere,  are  fruitful  sources  of  disease. 

The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Illinois  are  Fox,  Vermilion, 
Spoon  ami  Sangamo  rivers. 

Lakes.  A  part  of  Lake  Michigan  is  included  in  the  bounda¬ 
ries  of  this  state.  This  is  very  important,  inasmuch  as  it  af¬ 
fords  a  medium  of  communication  with  the  northern  states  and 
the  Canadas.  The  union  of  this  lake  with  the  Illinois,  and  thus 
with  the  Mississippi,  lias  for  a  long  time  excited  the  attention  of 
those  who  were  in  favor  of  internal  improvements.  During  the 
last  session  of  congress,  an  appropriation  of  land  was  made 
for  the  purpose  of  furnishing  the  state  with  the  means  of  accom¬ 
plishing  this  object  it  is  to  he  feared,  however,  that  the  ex¬ 
pense  of  constructing  this  canal  has  been  estimated  too  low,  and 
that  the  state,  even  with  the  assistance  afforded  by  the  general 
gover  nment,  is  not  yet  sufficiently  wealthy  to  complete  it.  Blit 
this  should  not  deter  her  from  making  the  attempt. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


19 


This  subject  is  so  important,  that  a  detail  of  the  routes  propos¬ 
ed  for  this  canal,  and  the  results  which  will  probably  arise  from 
its  final  accomplishment,  may  not  be  uninteresting. 

A  mere  glance  at  the  map  of  Illinois  will  be  sufficient  to  con¬ 
vince  a  person  of  the  least  observation,  that  the  union  of  Lake 
Michigan  with  the  Illinois  river,  by  means  of  a  canal,  is  not  only 
practicable,  but  of  easy  accomplishment.  The  position,  howev¬ 
er  does  not  rest  upon  so  slight  a  basis  ;  but  in  its  support,  can 
be  adduced  the  concurrent  testimony  of  all  who  have  explored 
and  examined  the  country.  The  fact  of  an  easy,  and  during  \ 
some  seasons  an  uninterrupted  communication  between  LakeMi- 
chigan,  and  the  head  waters  of  the  Illinois,  was  observed  by  the 
French  at  the  first  discovery  of  the  country  ;  and  on  this  ac¬ 
count,  they  immediately  erected  trading  establishments  on  dif¬ 
ferent  parts  of  the  route.  This  trade  was  for  a  long  time  enjoy¬ 
ed  exclusively  by  the  French,  and  it  contributed  in  no  small  de¬ 
gree  to  the  importance  of  the  Canadas.  But,  as  is  well  known, 
this  has  since  passed  into  other  hands,  and  those  who  discover¬ 
ed  the  country  and  were  for  a  longtime  the  lords  of  the  soil,  are 
now  the  mere  “  hewers  of  wood  and  drawers  of  water.”  Alas  ! 
who  can  account  for  the  strange  vicissitudes  of  fortune  !  Per¬ 
haps,  in  a  few  more  years,  those  republican  institutions,  which 
are  now  our  pride  and  boast,  may  be  demolished,  and  the  eagle 
of  liberty,  now  soaring  proudly  in  our  air,  be  driven  from  our 
shores  to  distant  and  more  congenial  climes ! 

The  information  of  traders  and  voyageurs  was  such  as  left  no 
doubt  of  the  existence  of  a  natural  canal  between  Lake  Michi- 
gan  and  the  Illinois,  at  some  seasons  of  the  year.  But  as  the 
country  had  never  been  carefully  examined  by  men  of  science 
and  observation,  it  was  difficult  to  ascertain  what  were  the  faci¬ 
lities  of  forming  an  artificial  communication.  All  talked  of  the 
project  as  practicable,  but  none  knew  the  mariner  in  which  it 
was  to  be  accomplished.  That  the  lakes  should  be  united  with 
the  Hudson  and  Mississippi  rivers,  was  a  project  none  were 
willing  to  scrutinize,  lest  its  beauty  might  be  destroyed.  But 
thanks  to  the  genius  and  enterprise  of  our  citizens,  theories 
and  dreams  have  passed  away,  and  have  been  succeeded  by  ex¬ 
periment  and  practice. 


20 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS8. 


A  few  years  since  the  country  south  arid  west  of  Lake  Michi¬ 
gan,  was  explored  by  Messrs.  Phillips  and  Graham  In  a  '  cry 
interesting  report,  which  they  made  to  the  secretary  of  war, 
four  different  methods  of  forming  a  communication  between 
Lake  Michigan  and  the  Illinois  were  proposed,  viz  : 

First — By  uniting  a  branch  of  Chicago  river,  which  empties 
into  Lake  Michigan,  and  a  branch  of  the  Des  Plaines,  which 
runs  a  southeast  course,  and  approaches  within  ten  or  eleven 
miles  of  the  lakes,  and  then  turning  to  the  southwest,  blends  its 
waters  with  the  Thcakiki.  These  streams  approximate  within 
three  miles  of  each  other,  and  when  swelled  by  heavj  falls  of 
rain,  actually  unite,  so  that  boats  of  8  or  10  tons  burthen 
pass  and  repass  from  the  lakes  to  the  Mississippi,  through  this 
natural  route. 

Secondly — It  could  be  effec  ted  by  opening  a  channel  from  a 
point  on  Lake  Michigan,  south  of  Chicago,  to  enter  the  Des 
Plaines  below  Lake  Du  Page. 

Thirdly — By  uniting  Lake  Michigan  with  the  Theakiki* 
above  its  junction  with  the  Des  Plaines.  And  lastly ,  by  joining 
the  Theakiki  and  St- Joseph  of  the  Lake,  by  which  the  French 
enjoyed  a  partial  navigation  when  the  Canadas  were  an  appen¬ 
dage  to  their  empire. 

I  shall  examine  each  of  these  plans  somewhat  in  detail  ;  and 
first  the  junction  of  the  Chicago  river  with  the  Des  Plaines. 

What  is  called  Chicago  river  or  creek,  is  merely  an  arm  of 
the  lake,  extending  in  a  southwesterly  direction  three  or  four 
miles,  and  fed  by  one  or  two  small  streams  coming  from  the 
north-  Hence  it  is  on  a  level  with  the  lake,  but  at  some  seas¬ 
ons  has  a  gentle  current,  owing  to  the  rains  and  freshets.  On 
tins  stream,  about  4  or  5  miles  from  the  lake,  is  a  trailing  esiah- 
lislnnent ;  and  here  the  portage  commences,  which,  except  in 
very  dry  seasons,  is  seldom  more  than  3  miles.  From  this  port¬ 
age  to  the  Des  Plaines,  a  distance  of  4  or  5  miles,  is  a  swamp 
which  is  generally  filled  with  water,  and  is  navigable  The 
whole  distance  from  the  Des  Plaines  to  the  lake  is  about  12 
miles.  The  height  of  the  Des  Plaines,  at  the  point  where  the 
swamp  unites  with  it,  is  calculated  at  from  8  to  12  feet.  It  ap¬ 
proaches  so  near  a  level,  that  the  view  from  the  swamp  to  the 
laK.©  is  almost  uninterrupted.  This  is  further  proved  by  the 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


21 


very  fart,  that  at  some  seasons  there  is  a  communication  between 
the  Chicago  and  the  Des  Plaines  which  could  not  be  the  case 
if  there  was  any  high  land  intermediate. 

The  Des  Plaines,  for  14  or  16  miles  below  its  junction  with 
the  swamp  above  mentioned,  has  scarcely  any  fall,  and  may  be 
said  to  be  on  a  level.  Below  this  the  rapids  commence,  and 
continue  for  a  considerable  distance.  A  short  distance  below 
the  commencement  of  the  rapids,  the  Lake  and  Des  Plaines  are 
supposed  to  be  on  a  level.  To  this  place,  therefore,  the  canal 
would  only  require  an  average  excavation  of  6  or  8  feet.  It  is 
the  opinion  of  some  who  have  attended  to  this  subject,  that  the 
canal  should  be  fed  from  the  Des  Plaines  ;  but  the  objections  to 
livers  for  supplies  of  water,  apply  with  double  force  in  this  sec¬ 
tion  of  country.  It  is  well  known,  that  in  the  spring,  all  these 
streams  are  so  filled  with  water  as  to  overflow  their  banks  for  a 
considerable  distance  ;  during  this  season  no  canal  would  be 
safe,  but  must  unquestionably  be  swept  away.  Again,  in  the 
autumn  they  are  on  the  opposite  extreme;  creeks,  ponds  and 
rivers,  are  completely  drained  of  their  water,  to  supply  that 
immense  and  greedy  conductor,  the  Mississippi.  It  is  not  un- 
frequently  the  case,  that  the  savages  and  travellers  are  compel¬ 
led  to  carry  water  with  them  in  bladders,  and  that  they  cross  the 
beds  of  large  streams  without  finding  sufficient  to  quench  their 
thirst.  But  there  is  another  objection  to  using  rivers  as  feeders? 
which,  though  not  so  imminent,  becomes  eventually  of  serious 
moment.  When  the  country  shall  be  cultivated,  streams  swollen 
by  showers  will  bring  down,  mixed  with  their  waters,  a  propor¬ 
tion  of  mud,  and  that,  in  the  stillness  of  a  level  canal,  will  sub¬ 
side  and  choak  it  up.  There  are  also  other  objections,  which 
are,  that  those  who  construct  the  canal  may  not  be  acquainted 
with  the  true  character  of  the  streams  ;  and  that  by  the  progress 
of  industry,  the  large  springs  and  sw  amps  which  arc  the  princi¬ 
pal  supply  of  those  streams,  will  he  dried  up.* 

All  these  objections  and  difficulties  would  be  obviated  by  feed¬ 
ing  the  canal  with  the  pure  water  from  the  lake.  And  accord¬ 
ing  to  the  facts  above  stated,  every  thing  is  in  favour  of  supply¬ 
ing  it  from  that  inexhaustible  reservoir.  It  would  afford  such  a 
constant  supply  of  water,  with  so  little  variation,  that  the  safety 


*See  the  1st  annual  report  of  the  New-York  canal  commissioners— 1311. 


22 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


of  the  canal  would  never  be  endangered.  No  supposable  fall 
of  rain  or  melting  of  snow,  even  if  both  were  to  take  place  at  the 
same  time,  in  the  country  which  surrounds  the  great  lakes, 
could  raise  in  any  considerable  degree  their  extended  surface. 
Indeed,  we  know  from  experience,  that  a  greater  difference  of 
elevation  is  occasioned  by  a  change  of  winds,  than  any  variation 
of  the  seasons.  Even  granting  the  truth  of  the.  existence  of  a 
tide*  in  the  lakes,  its  effect  is  so  inconsiderable  that  it  would 
never  be  attended  with  danger. 

The  project  of  feeding  from  the  lakes,  was  one  which  attract¬ 
ed  the  attention  of  the  first  commissioners  appointed  by  the  le¬ 
gislature  of  New-York,  to  examine  the  route  between  Lake 
Erie  and  the  Hudson  ;  and  so  much  importance  did  they  attach 
to  it,  that  they  then  thought  it  practicable  to  supply  the  canal 
for  nearly  the  whole  distance  from  this  source.  This,  however, 
on  account  of  the  ascent  from  the  lake,  was  found  inexpedient. 
In  the  canal  under  consideration,  there  could  be  no  objection  to 
using  this  for  any  distance  ;  for  after  leaving  the  level  of  the 
lake,  16  or  18  miles  below  the  portage,  there  is  a  constant,  but 
gradual  descent  to  the  foot  of  the  main  rapids  of  the  Illinois, 
which  is  the  point  at  which  the  canal  should  terminate. 

The  expense  of  the  canal,  following  the  route  by  the  portage 
to  the  point  where  the  first  lock  would  be  required,  a  distance 
of  about  26  miles,  would  be  comparatively  trilling.  An  estimate 
may  be  made  by  examining  the  expense  of  other  canals  under 
similar  circumstances.  In  the  report  made  by  the  New-Yrork 
canal  commissioners  in  1816,  a  minute  survey  of  the  distances 
and  levels  was  given,  and  also  a  calculation  of  the  expense  for 
each  mile.  From  this  it  appears,  that  the  summit  level  of  the 
southwestern  section  of  the  western  canal  is  17  miles  ;  and  it 
passes  through  a  country  so  very  level,  that  an  average  depth  of 
four  feet  of  excavation  is  all  that  is  required.  To  effect  this, 
sa>  the  commissioners,  the  removal  of  5,550  cords  of  earth  per 
mile,  will  be  necessary ;  and  such  removal  may  be  performed 
for  seventy-five  cents  per  cord,  amounting,  for  17  miles,  to 

64,387  dollars.  The  Illinois  canal,  from  the  lake  to  the  first 

0 

*This  opinion,  which  was  advanced  by  some  of  the  earliest  travellers  through  this  territory,  is 
supported  at  considerable  length  by  Judge  Woodward  of  Michigan,  in  aletler  to  Dr.  S.  L.Mitchi1! 
of  New-York,  published  in  the  New-York  Spectator. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


23 


rapids  of  the  Dos  Plaines,  a  distance  of  26  miles,  would  require  an 
average  excavation  of  about  6  feet.  This  would  require  the  re¬ 
moval  of  8325  cords  of  earth  per  mile  ;  and  such  removal,  at  75 
cents  per  cord  for  26  miles,  would  amount  to  162,337  dollars. 

The  second  plan  of  uniting  Lake  Michigan  with  the  Illinois, 
is  by  opening  a  channel  from  a  point  of  Lake  Michigan  south 
of  Chicago,  to  enter  the  Dcs  Plaines  below  Lake  du  Page.  This 
point  on  Lake  Michigan  is  about  13  miles  south  of  Chicago. 
At  this  place  commences  a  swamp,  which  in  high  water  stretches 
itself  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  and  forms  a  communication 
with  the  Des  Plaines  near  the  first  rapids ;  it  also  interlocks 
with  the  Little  Kalimick,  and  thus  unites  with  the  lake.  The 
distance  is  18  miles,  and  it  is  nearly  on  a  level  with  the  lake. 
It  is  said  that  boats  have  frequently  passed  through  this  channel 
to  the  Des  Plaines  ;  and  when  such  is  the  case,  it  is  impossible 
in  many  places  to  say  whether  the  current  sets  to  the  lake  or 
the  Des  Plaines.  At  a  point  about  half  way  between  the  lake 
and  the  Des  Plaines,  a  feather  or  a  piece  of  wood  cast  on  the 
surface  of  the  water,  will  sometimes  float  one  w  ay  and  sometimes 
the  other. 

It  is  urged  in  favour  of  this  route,  that  the  distance  is  shorter, 
and  the  country  through  which  it  passes  more  favourable  for 
canalling.  But  there  are  also  objections  to  it,  which  are,  that 
the  adjacent  country  is  very  swampy,  and  that  there  is  no  point 
on  the  lake  below  Chicago  which  would  be  an  eligible  site  for  a 
place  of  entrepot.  Chicago  is  situated  on  a  rise  of  ground,  and 
is  in  every  respect  admirably  calculated  for  this  purpose. 

With  the  advantages  of  the  two  last  routes  we  are  at  present 
but  little  acquainted.  By  the  latter,  however,  the  French  en¬ 
joyed  a  partial  communication  while  in  possession  of  the  Ca¬ 
nadas.  It  was  through  this  passage  that  the  first  discoverers 
of  this  country  entered  the  Illinois  ;  and  it  was  used  for  many 
years  afterwards.  But  the  superior  facilities  of  the  northern 
routes  are  such  that  these  are  now  scarcely  thought  of.  The 
distance  by  the  two  former  routes  arc  much  less,  and  in  every 
respect  the  facilities  are  increased. 

I  have  thus  briefly  examined  the  different  routes  which  have 
been  suggested  for  uniting  the  head  waters  of  the  Illinois  with 
Lake  Michigan.  Whichever  of  these  routes  is  finally  adopted 


24 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


as  the  most  practicable  am!  least  expensive,  it  will  he  necessary 
to  continue  the  canal  to  the  foot  of  the  lower  rapids  of  the  Illi¬ 
nois,  near  the  mouth  of  Vermilion  river,  a  distance  of  about  90 
miles  from  Chicago.  These  rapids,  which  are  observed  at  in¬ 
tervals  for  20  or  30  miles,  are  occasioned  in  some  places  by 
ledges  of  rock,  and  in  others  by  detached  masses,  which  at  some 
seasons  are  bare,  and  at  others  covered  onl>  by  a  few  inches  ot 
water;  and  on  this  account  the  navigation  is  obstructed  for  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  year.  Below  these  rapids  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Illinois,  the  river  is  deep,  its  current  gentle,  and 
the  navigation  unobstructed  throughout  the  >ear. 

I  do  not  know  w  hether  any  calculations  have  been  as  yet  made 
to  ascertain  the  fall  from  the  rapids  of  the  Des  Plaines  to  the 
termination  of  those  of  the  Illinois  ;  but  persons  who  have  re¬ 
peatedly  ascended  and  descended  these  streams,  suppose  it  to  be 
from  50  to  70  feet.  Taking  the  highest  number,  and  allow  ing 
the  distance  from  the  point  on  the  Des  Plaines,  where  that 
stream  is  supposed  to  be  on  a  level  with  Lake  Michigan,  to  be 
60  miles,  let  us  make  an  estimate  of  the  expense  by  referring  to 
that  of  other  canals. 

The  Middlesex  canal,  in  Massachusetts,  runs  over  twenty- 
eight  miles  of  ground,  presenting  obstacles  much  greater  than 
can  possibly  be  expected  on  the  route  we  propc.se.  This  canal 
cost  478,000  dollars,  which  is  about  17,000  dollars  a  mile.  It 
contains  22  locks  of  solid  masonry  and  excellent  workmanship, 
and  to  accomplish  this  work,  it  was  necessary  to  dig  in  some 
places  to  the  depth  of  20  feet,  to  cut  through  ledges  of  rocks,  to 
fill  valleys  and  morasses,  and  to  throw  several  aqueducts 
across  the  intervening  rivers.  One  of  these  across  the  river 
Shawshine  is  280  feet  long,  and  22  feet  above  the  river. 

The  expense  of  the  northern  canal  from  Lake  Champlain  to 
Waterford,  is  calculated  at  800,000  dollars — the  distance  is  61 
miles  ;  the  ascent  from  the  lake  to  the  summit  level,  between 
Fort  Ann  and  Fort  Edward,  is  53  feet  6  inches,  and  from  this 
to  Waterford  the  descent  is  140  feet — and  upwards  of  twenty 
locks  are  required. 

According  to  the  report  of  theNew-York  canal  commission¬ 
ers  in  1817,  the  following  estimate  was  given  : 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


25 


On  the  Tonewanta  creek,  thirty  miles  from  the  west  end  of 
the  canal,  at  a  point  where  the  level  of  the  lake  terminates,  to 
the  ommencetnent  of  the  summit  level,  between  Lake  Erie  and 
the  Genessee  river,  the  distance  is  12  miles.  “  In  this  distance,'1 
sav  the  commissioners,  “  locks  must  be  construc  ted  for  a  rise 
of  74  feet  and  eighty  hundredths.  It  would  probably  be  expe-  • 
dieut  to  divide  this  rise  equally  between  ten  locks,  in  which  case 
the  lift  of  each  would  be  seven  feet  and  forty-eight  hundredths. 
The  expense  of  tln  m  would  not  exceed  §  100,000.”  The  expen¬ 
ses  of  excavation,  &c.  are  estimated  at  §28,000 

Making  §128,000 

Again,  from  the  east  end  of  the  summit  level  down  the  valley  of 
Black  creek,  and  along  the  west  banks  of  the  Genesee  river,  is 
about  80  miles,  and  it  would  require  locks  for  a  fall  of  1 39  feet* 
The  expense  of  these  locks  might  be  estimated  at  §  15,000 
The  other  expenses  at  b6,000  per  mile,  180,000 


Add 


§195,000 

128,000 


Making  in  all,  §323,000 

For  a  distance  of  42  miles,  with  a  fall  of  213  feet,  requiring 
about  30  locks. 

The  expense  of  the  whole  extent  of  the  middle  section  of  the 
western  canal,  occupying  an  extent  of  77  miles,  and  requiring 
six  locks,  is  estimated  at  §853,000. 

The  average  expense  of  the  eastern  section  of  the  canal  per 
mile  is  §13,800.  In  this  section  there  is  a  fall  of  418  feet,  and 
46  locks  are  required. 

The  average  expense  of  the  whole  canal  from  Lake  Erie  to 
the  Hudson,  a  distance  of  365  miles,  is  about  §13,400  per  mile. 

Taking  then  the  highest  estimates,  the  expense  of  the  con¬ 
templated  canal  from  the  Michigan  to  the  foot  of  the  lower  rap¬ 
ids  of  the  Illinois,  would  not  much  exceed  §1,000,000  ;  but  the 
facilities  which  are  here  presented,  viz.  the  levelness  of  the 
country,  and  the  ease  with  which  a  canal  could  he  supplied  with 
water,  would  render  it  much  less  expensive,  and  perhaps  one 
half  the  amount  abo\e  mentioned  would  he  amply  sufficient. 

In  a  national  point  of  view,  the  canal  under  consideration  will 

4 


26 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


be  of  the  greatest  importance  ;  for  there  is  no  political  principle 
more  clearly  established  than  this,  “  that  after  the  formation  of 
a  good  government ,  it  is  the  next  interest  of  a  nation  to  adopt  such 
a  system  of  internal  policy,  as  will  enable  the  people  to  enjoy ,  as 
soon  as  practicable ,  all  the  natural  advantages  of  the  country  in 
which  they  live.”  And  it  is  no  less  a  fact,  that  when  nations 
have  acted  upon  this  principle,  they  have  uniformly  risen  to 
wealth  and  prosperity.  In  order  to  test  the  truth  of  this  re¬ 
mark,  look  at  the  situation  of  those  countries  where  internal  im¬ 
provements  have  been  brought  to  the  highest  degree  of  per¬ 
fection.  China ,  it  is  said,  by  means  of  its  numerous  canals  in¬ 
tersecting  each  other  over  the  face  of  that  immense  empire,  and 
opening  communications  between  the  greatest  cities  in  the 
world,  has  created  a  home  market  nearly  equal  to  the  whole 
market  in  Europe.  It  is  to  he  regretted  that  we  have  no  de¬ 
tailed  account  of  those  stupendous  monuments  of  genius  and  en¬ 
terprise,  which  have  thus  contributed  to  make  her  the  most 
wealthy  and  independent  nation  on  earth.*  But  China  is  not 
the  only  example.  Look  at  Holland ,  who  by  her  industry  and 
enterprise,  has ‘Stolen  territory  from  the  ocean,  and  has  intersec¬ 
ted  its  surface  in  every  direction  with  canals.  And  did  these 
produce  no  effects  ?  We  need  only  answer  by  an  appeal  to  her 
history.  But  a  few  years  since,  she  was  mistress  of  the  ocean, 
and  her  thousand  sails  whitened  every  sea,  and  enlivened  every 
port.  No  nation  dared  then  restrict  her  commerce  or  insult  her 
flag  ;  the  cannon  of  her  ships  always  thundered  successfully,  and 
her  flag  waved  triumphantly  over  her  enemies.  But  although 
her  naval  glory  has  been  eclipsed  by  the  appearance  of  a  bright¬ 
er  constellation,  she  yet  possesses  within  herself  wealth  and  in¬ 
dependence.  Other  instances  might  readily  be  adduced,  bu^ 
they  would  be  unnecessary.  The  history  of  the  poverty  and 
wealth,  the  weakness  and  power,  the  rise  and  fall  of  nations, 
furnish  incontestible  proofs  of  the  truth  of  the  position,  that  the 
most  intimate  connection  which  can  be  formed  between  the  re¬ 
mote  sections  of  a  country,  is  the- most  certain  method  of  pre¬ 
serving  its  independence,  of  calling  forth  its  latent  energies, 
and  thus  increasing  its  wealth  and  political  consequence. 

*  Col.  Haines’  introduction  to  the  reports  of  the  canal  commissioners,  a  very  valuable  memoir 
on  the  subject  of  internal  improvements. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


27 


To  the  American  people ,  the  progress  of  internal  improvement 
is  a  subject  which  should  claim  their  most  serious  attention,  in¬ 
asmuch  as  it  concerns  their  deepest  interests.  In  a  republic  so 
extensive  as  ours,  the  conclusion  is  reasonable,  nay  irresistible, 
that  when  its  different  sections  become  thickly  populated,  jeal¬ 
ousies  will  arise  which  will  disturb  its  peace  and  endanger  its 
liberties.  The  history  of  our  country,  although  yet  in  its  infan¬ 
cy,  has  already  furnished  ample  proof  of  this  fact ;  but  we  are 
unwilling  to  enter  into  the  disgraceful  detail.  Since  then  we 
have  already  seen  sectional  interests  arise,  and  local  jealousies 
excited,  what  may  we  not  expect,  when  our  country  shall  be¬ 
come  thickly  populated,  from  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic  to  those 
of  the  Pacific.  Can  it  be  supposed  that  patriotism,  innocent 
and  defenceless  as  she  is,  can  resist  the  attacks  of  those  arch 
fiends,  interest  and  avarice  ?  No  !  the  presumption  is  as  idle,  as 
the  reality  would  be  dreadful:  the  experience  of  the  world 
proves  its  falsity.  It  follows  then,  that  a  community  of  interest, 
arising  from  a  mutual  dependence  of  one  section  of  country 
upon  the  other,  is  the  only  bond  of  union,  and  consequently,  it 
should  be  the  business  of  every  wise  statesman  and  legislator  to 
effect  this  object.  Again,  if  it  is  true  that  mutual  wants  consti¬ 
tute  one  of  the  principal  links  of  political  connexion,  it  is  no  less 
true,  that  it  is  much  strengthened  by  the  ease  with  which  those 
wants  can  be  supplied.  Thus  we  find  that  in  the  early  ages  of 
society,  when  governments  were  composed  of  distinct  petty  clans, 
or  monarchies  without  a  single  bond  of  interest  to  unite  them, 
or  without  the  means  of  interchange  between  their  different  com¬ 
ponent  parts,  they  were  a  continual  prey  to  jealousies  and  feuds. 
They,  one  after  another,  sunk  into  oblivion,  and  now  scarcely 
a  single  trace  of  their  former  existence  remains.  “  England, 
which  at  one  time  was  divided  into  several  petty  kingdoms, 
through  the  influence  of  the  general  diffusion  of  knowledge,  and 
a  liberal  course  of  policy,  has  become  united  into  one.  And  dur¬ 
ing  the  last  fifty  years,  the  facilities  of  internal  communication 
have  been  so  much  increased,  that  the  demands  of  one  place  can 
be  supplied  by  the  resources  of  another,  and  thus  industry  has 
been  so  extensively  diffused,  as  to  enable  her  to  supply  her  own 
wants,  and  to  furnish  vast  exports  to  exchange  for  the  wealth  of 
other  countries.  Scotland ,  by  succession,  became  united  to  Eng- 


28 


GENERAL  VIEW  OE  ILLINOIS. 


land,  and  is  now  bound  to  her  by  habit,  by  turnpike  roads,  ca¬ 
nals  and  ret  ip  rural  interests.  In  like  maimer,  all  the  counties  of 
England,  or  departments  of  France,  are  bound  to  each  other  ; 
and  when  the  United  States  shall  be  bound  together  by  canals, 
by  cheap  and  easy  access  to  a  market  in  all  directions,  by  a  sense 
of  mutual  interests,  arising  from  mutual  intercourse,  and  ming¬ 
led  commerce,  it  will  no  more  be  possible  to  split  them  into  inde¬ 
pendent  and  separate  governments,  each  lining  its  frontiers  with 
fortifications  and  troops,  to  shackle  their  own  exports  to  and 
from  the  neighbouring  states,  than  it  is  now  possible  for  the  gov¬ 
ernment  of  England  to  divide  and  form  again  into  seven  king¬ 
doms.  But  it  is  necessary  to  bind  the  states  together  by  the 
people’s  interests ,  one  of  which  is  to  enable  every  man  to  sell  the 
produce  of  his  labor  at  the  best  market,  and  purchase  at  the 
cheapest.  This  accords  with  the  idea  of  Hume,  4  that  the  gov¬ 
ernment  of  a  wise  people  would  be  little  more  than  a  system  of 
civil  police,  for  the  best  interests  of  man  is  industry,  and  a  free 
exchange  of  the  produce  of  his  labour,  for  the  thing  he  may  re¬ 
quire.’ 

4*  On  this  humane  principle  what  stronger  bond  of  union  can 
be  invented,  than  those  which  enable  each  individual  to  trans¬ 
port  the  produce  of  his  industry,  1200  miles  for  sixty  rents  the 
hundred  weight  ?  Here  then  is  a  certain  method  of  securing  the 
union  of  the  states,  and  of  rendering  it  as  lasting  as  the  conti¬ 
nent  we  inhabit.”* 

This  is  the  language  of  one,  than  whom  none  has  contributed 
more  to  the  honour  and  prosperity  of  the  country. 

The  view  which  1  have  thus  far  taken  of  the  improvement  of 
internal  communications,  relates  only  to  its  necessity  for  the 
preservation  of  our  union  and  independence.  There  are,  how¬ 
ever,  other  considerations,  which  should  not  be  overlooked  or 
treated  lightly.  Before  entering  on  this  subject,  it  is  proper  to 
premise,  that  a  nation,  in  order  to  become  prosperous  and 
wealthy,  must  depend  upon  her  own  resources,  and  not  those  of 
foreign  countries  ;  for  the  latter  may  at  any  time  be  withdrawn, 
and  the  nation  depending  on  them  reduced  to  the  most  embar¬ 
rassed  situation.  A  nation,  in  order  to  become  wealthy,  must 


*  See  Fulton’s  Treatise  on  Canals,  in  which,  at  an  early  period,  he  called  the  attention  of  the  peo¬ 
ple  of  the  state  of  New-York  to  the  subject  of  the  union  of  Lake  Erie  withy  he  Hudson  river- 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


29 


live  within  herself ; — she  must  manufacture  her  own  raw  mate¬ 
rials,  instead  of  sending  them  to  foreign  countries,  and  depend¬ 
ing  for  her  supply  of  the  manufactured  articles  upon  foreign 
markets.  “  To  rely  upon  foreign  markets,”  says  Governor 
Clinton,*  “  is  to  expose  ourselves  to  the  caprice  of  foreign  po¬ 
licy,  and  to  commit  primary  interests  to  the  guardianship  of 
rival  nations.  We  must,  therefore,  consult  the  substantial  and 
permanent  prosperity  of  agriculture,  by  providing  for  the  do¬ 
mestic  consumption  of  its  productions  ;  and  this  can  only  be  ac¬ 
complished  by  the  dense  population  of  manufacturing  towns  and 
commercial  <  ities.” 

Among  the  many  arguments  in  favour  of  this  position,  one 
which  is  more  intimately  connected  with  the  subject  under  con¬ 
sideration,  is,  that  it  creates  in  some  instances  a  new ,  and  secures 
in  all  a  more  certain  and  steady  demand  for  the  surplus  produce  of 
the  soil.  One  of  the  greatest  statesmen!  who  has  ever  adorned 
the  history  of  our  country,  in  treating  of  this  subject,  observes, 
“  This  is  a  principal  means  by  which  the  establishment  of  ma¬ 
nufactures  contributes  to  an  augmentation  of  the  produce  or  re¬ 
venue  of  the  country,  and  has  an  immediate  and  direct  relation 
to  the  prosperity  of  agriculture. 

<•  It  is  evident,  that  the  exertions  of  the  husbandman  will  be 
steady  or  fluctuating,  vigorous  or  feeble,  in  proportion  to  the 
steadiness  or  fluctuation,  adequateness  or  inadequateness  of  the 
markets  on  which  he  must  depend  for  the  vent  of  the  surplus 
which  may  be  produced  by  his  labour  ;  and  that  such  surplus, 
in  the  ordinary  course  of  things,  will  be  greater  or  less  in  the 
same  proportion. 

“  For  the  purpose  of  this  vent,  a  domestic  market  is  greatly  to 
be  preferred  to  a  foreign  one  ;  for  it  is,  in  the  nature  of  things, 
far  more  to  be  relied  on. 

“  But  the  foreign  demand  for  the  products  of  agricultural 
countries,  is ,  in  a  great  degree ,  rather  casual  and  occasional ,  than 
certain  or  constant.  To  what  extent  injurious  interruptions  of 
the  demand  for  some  of  the  staple  commodities  of  the  United 
Slates,  may  have  been  experienced  from  that  cause,  must  be  re¬ 
ferred  to  the  judgment  of  those  who  are  engaged  in  carrying  on 


*  See  his  speech  to  the  legislatureof  New-York,in  Jan.  1322. 

1  Alexander  Hamilton — See  his  report  on  manufactures,  Jan.  179Q. 


30 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


the  commerce  of  the  country  ;  but  it  may  be  safely  affirmed* 
that  such  interruptions  are  at  times  very  inconveniently  felt, 
and  that  cases  not  unfrequently  occur  in  which  markets  are  so 
confined  and  restricted  as  to  render  the  demand  very  unequal  to 
the  supply. 

“  Independently  likewise,  of  these  artificial  impediments, 
which  are  created  by  the  policy  in  question,  there  are  natural 
causes  tending  to  render  the  external  demand  for  the  surplus  of 
agricultural  nations ,  a  precarious  reliance •  The  differences  of 
seasons  in  the  countries  which  are  the  consumers,  make  im¬ 
mense  differences  in  the  produce  of  their  own  soils  in  different 
years,  and  consequently  in  the  degrees  of  their  necessity  for 
foreign  supply.  Plentiful  harvests  with  them,  especially  if  si¬ 
milar  ones  occur  at  the  same  time  in  the  countries  which  are  the 
furnishers,  occasion  of  course  a  glut  in  the  markets  of  the  latter. 

“  Considering  how  fast  and  how  much  the  progress  of  new7 
settlements  in  the  United  States  must  increase  the  surplus  pro¬ 
duce  of  the  soil,  and  weighing  seriously  the  tendency  of  the  sys¬ 
tem  which  prevails  among  most  of  the  commercial  nations  of 
Europe,  whatever  dependence  may  be  placed  on  the  force  of  na¬ 
tural  circumstances  to  counteract  the  effects  of  artificial  policy, 
there  appear  strong  reasons  to  regard  the  foreign  demand  for  • hat 
surplus ,  as  too  uncertain  a  reliance ,  and  to  desire  a  substitute  for  it 
in  an  extensive  domestic  market 

“  To  secure  such  a  market,  there  is  no  other  expedient ,  than  to 
promote  manufacturing  establishments.  Manufacturers,  who  con¬ 
stitute  the  most  numerous  class  after  the  cultivators  of  land,  are 
for  that  reason  the  principal  consumers  of  the  surplus  of  their 
labour. 

“  This  idea  of  an  extensive  domestic  market  for  the  surplus 
produce  of  the  soil,  is  of  the  first  consequence.  It  is.  of  all  things, 
that  which  most  effectually  conduces  to  a  flourishing  state  of  agri¬ 
culture.” 

If  the  principles  w  hich  are  here  laid  down  by  a  master  hand, 
and  which  are  confirmed  and  strengthened  by  the  experience  of 
thirty  years,  arc  correct,  it  follows  as  a  necessary  consequence, 
that  it  is  the  policy  of  our  government  to  encourage  manufac¬ 
tures,  and  by  this  means  promote  national  industry. 

But  granting  it  to  he  the  interest  of  our  country  to  encourage 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


31 


manufactures,  how  can  they  he  bcnefitted  hy  internal  improve- 
merits  ?  To  this  \vc  reply  :  If  we  should  become  a  great  manu¬ 
facturing  nation,  it  is  probable  that  the  northern  and  middle 
states  will  be  the  principal  scenes  of  those  establishments  ; 
which  would  immediately  benefit  the  more  southern,  by  creating 
a  demand  for  productions,  some  of  which  they  have  in  common 
with  the  other  states,  and  others  of  which  are  either  peculiar  to, 
or  more  abundant,  or  of  better  quality  than  elsewhere.*  But  it 
is  evident,  that  in  proportion  as  produce  is  remote  from  market, 
its  value  is  diminished  in  consequence  of  the  expense  of  carriage, 
and  hence  remote  parts  are  excluded  from  the  market,  or  a  fa¬ 
cility  of  exchanging  their  surplus  produce  for  the  necessaries 
they  may  require  ;  and  thus  every  inducement  for  exertion  is 
destroyed,  and  the  country  remains  barren  and  uncultivated. 

To  encourage  population,”  says  a  writerf  before  referred  to, 
“  and  to  increase  the  value  of  the  lands,  the  cheapest  possible 
conveyance  of  the  produce  must  be  established  on  sound  princi¬ 
ples  ;  for  exactly  in  proportion  to  the  ease  of  reaching  the  mar¬ 
ket,  the  remote  countries  of  equal  fertility  will  be  of  more  or  less 
consequence  in  the  scale  of  society.”  If  it  is  a  fact  that  manu¬ 
factures  cannot  exist  without  agriculture,  it  is  no  less  true  that 
in  proportion  to  the  diminution  of  transportation  will  be  the  in¬ 
crease  of  the  quantity  of  produce  sent  to  market,  the  greater  . 
will  be  the  commercial  interchange  of  returning  merchandize, 
and  the  greater  the  encouragement  to  manufactures,  by  the  in¬ 
creased  cheapness  and  comfort  of  living,  together  with  the 
cheapness  and  abundance  of  raw  materials. 

No  truth  is  better  established  than  that  labour  is  the  wealth  of 
a  nation,  and  that  that  which  saves  labour  rewards  labour.  It 
is  upon  this  that  the  whole  operations  of  civilized  societies  de¬ 
pend,  as  it  regards  political  economy  and  social  intercourse. 
Labour  is  first  required  in  obtaining  the  raw  materials,  then  in 
preparing  them  for  use,  and  lastly  in  transporting  them  to  the 
places  where  they  are  to  be  used.  This  last,  viz.  transportation , 
necessarily  forms  a  heavy  charge  on  the  fund  of  labour ;  and  in 
proportion  to  the  reduction  of  labour  in  this  respect,  will  be  the 

*  See  addresses  of  the  Philadelphia  society  for  promoting  national  industry.  They  contain  much 
valuable  information  on  the  subject  of  domestic  manufactures. 

1  See  aletterof  Robert  Fulton,  Ksq.  to  Thomas  Mifflin,  Governor  of  Pennsylvania,  1796. 


*12 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


gain  of  a  nation,  as  the  part  saved  can  be  employed  to  advantage 
in  other  objects.* 

Having  thus  presented  some  of  the  general  advantages  to  be 
derived  from  the  union  of  Lake  Michigan  with  the  Illinois,  I 
shall  next  proceed  to  show  in  what  manner  it  will  be  particularly 
advantageous  to  the  states  of  Illinois  and  Missouri. 

The  fertility  of  the  soil  of  these  states  is  such  as  leaves  no 
doubt  that  they  are  destined  to  become  great  agricultural  states. 
All  the  grains  of  the  eastern,  and  many  of  the  staples  of  the 
southern  states,  flourish  here.  From  the  success  which  has  at¬ 
tended  the  cultivation  of  cotton  on  the  eastern  side  of  Illinois, 
on  the  Missouri  river,  and  in  many  other  parts  of  these  states, 
it  is  highly  probable  that  in  a  few  years  this  article  will  be 
abundantly  and  profitably  raised.  Tobacco  also  flourishes  here, 
and  is  perfectly  congenial  to  the  climate.  The  richness  of  the 
soil  pledges  an  abundant  reward  to  industry,  and  forbids  the 
idea  that  it  will  remain  sterile,  or  yield  only  a  sufficiency  for 
our  own  consumption.  An  immense  surplus  produce  may  be 
raised,  and  althongh  the  demand  for  it  may  sometimes  be  inter¬ 
rupted,  the  interruption  is  seldom  of  long  continuance  ;  for  the 
history  of  the  world  proves  that  all  the  surplus  produce  which 
is  raised  in  one  region,  is  generally  required  in  another. 

We  are  justified  in  the  conclusion,  that  while  man  remains 
what  he  is,  influenced  by  ambition,  the  love  of  glory,  the  hope  of 
empire,  and  the  baser  passions,  wars  will  continue  to  desolate 
and  destroy  ;  and  in  proportion  to  the  numbers  concerned  in 
these,  the  number  of  agriculturalists  w  ill  be  diminished,  and  the 
demand  for  agricultural  products  increased.  These  events,  until 
we  turn  our  attention  exclusively  to  manufactures,  will  always 
have  an  important  effect  upon  our  country.  They  will  create  a 
demand  for  the  products  of  our  industry,  and  of  course  will  have 
a  tendency  to  make  the  agricultural  interest  flourish.  It  then 
becomes  a  question  of  much  importance,  in  what  manner  these 
states  shall  be  best  enabled  to  take  advantage  of  the  demand  in 
foreign  countries  ?  For  this  purpose  three  outlets  present  them¬ 
selves — the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Mississippi,  and  the  Hudson. 
The  objections  to  the  St.  Lawrence  on  account  of  its  rapids  and 

*  Report  of  the  committee  on  roads  and  canals,  in  the  house  of  representatives;  Jan.  2, 182?. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS* 


33 


obstructions,  and  tlie  fact  that  it  is  closed  by  the  intensity  of 
climate  about  seven  months  in  the  year,  are  such  that  it  never 
can  compete  with  the  others.  The  export  trade  must  then  be 
divided  between  New-Orleans  and  New- York.  The  former  is 
destined  to  become  one  of  the  greatest  commercial  cities  in  this 
or  any  other  country.  She  commands  the  greatest  interior ; 
she  is  the  key  to  the  richest  and  most  extensive  inland  region  of 
any  mercantile  capital  in  the  world.*  As  such  she  will  always 
be  an  important  market  for  the  western  states.  Besides  the  pro¬ 
duce  required  for  her  own  consumption,  and  that  of  Louisiana 
and  Mississippi,  she  will  be  the  entrepot  of  the  produce  destined 
for  the  West  Indies  and  the  provinces  of  South  America.  But 
every  day’s  experience  must  convince  us  that  this  outlet  is  not 
sufficient  for  the  produce  of  the  western  states  ;  and  as  their 
agricultural  resources  are  brought  into  more  active  operation, 
this  consideration  will  become  of  more  serious  import.  It  is, 
therefore,  their  true  policy  to  open  a  communication  with  New- 
York  ,  so  that  they  can  avail  themselves  of  both  markets.  The 
correctness  of  this  position  will  be  manifest  from  the  following 
considerations  : — The  capital  of  New-Orleans  is  disproportion¬ 
ate  to  the  quantity  of  produce  landed  there.  The  warmth  and 
unhealthiness  of  the  climate  prevents  the  farmer  from  sending 
his  produce  to  that  place,  at  a  time  when  he  may  be  most  in  need, 
of  the  articles  for  which  he  would  barter.  During  this  time,  he 
is  at  present  completely  deprived  of  a  market  for  his  produce, 
and  is  moreover  obliged  to  pay  the  merchant  an  exorbitant  price 
for  his  necessaries.  It  frequently  happens,  that  in  the  western 
states,  during  the  summer  and  fall,  the  price  of  those  articles 
for  which  they  depend  upon  New-Orleans,  is  raised  50,  and 
sometimes  100  per  cent.  But  New-Orleans  is  at  all  times  a 
very  uncertain  market.  It  not  unfrequently  happens  that  a  few 
boat  loads  of  produce  completely  supply  the  demand.  If  another 
cargo  then  arrives,  the  owner  is  obliged  either  to  sacrific  e  it,  or 
leave  it  in  store  ;  in  the  latter  case,  if  it  consists  of  Hour  or  ba¬ 
con,  it  suffers  much  from  the  beat  and  humidity  of  the  climate, 
and  its  value  is  not  unfrequently  diminished  one  half  or  three 
fourths.  This  is  also  the  case  with  furs  and  several  other  ar- 

i 

-*  Col.  Haines’  introduction  before  referred  to. 


5 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS, 


tides,  which  cannot  be  transported  by  New-Orleans  to  a  foreign 
market,  without  a  considerable  depreciation  in  their  value. 

T  hese  considerations  clearly  prove  the  importance  of  opening 
a  communication  with  New-York,  by  which  means  the  states 
bordering  on  the  Mississippi  will  be  enabled  to  find  a  market 
for  their  produce  during  those  seasons  when  they  are  completely 
excluded  from  New-Orleans.  They  will  then  be  enabled  to  take 
the  advantage  of  both  t lie  markets  of  New-Orleans  and  New- 
York.  Their  produce  then,  instead  of  remaining  with  the  agri¬ 
culturalist,  or  wasting  in  the  store-houses  at  Orleans,  will  find 
its  way  to  the  great  exporting  market ;  and  in  return,  goods 
will  be  received  upon  the  most  advantageous  terms.  Even  at  this 
time,  merchants  at  St.  Louis,  and  in  different  parts  of  Illinois 
and  Missouri,  purchase  their  goods  in  the  eastern  cities,  and 
transport  them  across  the  mountains,  in  preference  to  sending 
them  by  New-Orleans.  If,  then,  they  now  find  it  their  interest 
to  do  this,  how  much  more  so  will  it  be  when,  by  the  completion 
of  this  canal,  the  price  of  transportation  will  be  much  diminish¬ 
ed  ;  and  when,  in  addition  to  this,  they  can  secure  at  New- York 
the  highest  possible  price  for  their  produce,  during  those  sea¬ 
sons  when  they  are  completely  excluded  from  the  southern 
market. 

But  let  us  enter  somewhat  into  detail,  and  compare  the  pre¬ 
sent  price  of  transportation  with  what  it  will  be  when  this  inland 
communication  shall  be  established.  For  example,  from  St.  • 
Louis,  a  central  point  on  the  Mississippi,  to  New-York,  by  the 
way  of  New-Orleans,  the  present  price  of  transportation  is  about 
$45  per  ton.  The  freight  of  the  return  cargo  is  not  less  than 
$80  per  ton  :  add  to  this  the  risque  of  shipwreck  at  sea,  and  the 
delay  in  consequence  of  the  sickness  at  New-Orleans.  After 
the  completion  of  the  Illinois  and  New-York  canals,  the  expense 
of  transportation  from  St.  Louis  to  New-York,  will  be  about  as 


follows  : — 

From  St.  Louis  to  Chicago,  say  per  ton,  $10 

From  Chicago  to  Buffalo,  10 

From  Buffalo  to  New-York,  say  20 

Making  $40 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


35 


But  the  return  cargo  would  be  no  more  expensive  ;  and  con¬ 
sequently  by  this  route  there  would  be  a  saving  of  from  40  to  50 
dollars,  besides  the  risque  and  delay  above  mentioned. 

But  as  we  have  spoken  of  delay ,  let  us  compare  the  time  con¬ 


sumed  in  these  different  routes  : — 

First — by  the  way  of  the  Lakes. 

From  St.  Louis  to  the  foot  of  the  lower  rapids  of  the 
liii  nois,  a  distance  of  about  250  miles,  against  a 
gentle  current,  by  steam-boats,  about  3  days. 

From  the  rapids  to  Chicago,  about  90  miles,  by  the 
canal,  say  3  days. 

From  Chicago  to  Buffalo,  say  10  days. 

From  Buffalo  to  New- York,  12  days. 

Making  28  days. 

Return  Voyage. 

From  Nevv-York  to  St.  Louis,  28  days. 

In  all,  56 

Second — by  the  way  of  New -Orleans. 

From  St,  Louis  to  New-Orleans,  average  about  15  days. 

From  New-Orleans  to  Ncw-York,  25  days. 


Making  40  days. 

Return  Voyage. 

From  New-York  to  New-Orleans,  average  about  35  days. 
From  New-Orleans  to  St.  Louis,  30  days. 


In  all,  105 

So  that  the  northern  or  canal  voyage  could  be  accomplished  in 
less  than  half  the  time  necessary  for  the  southern. 

These  several  estimates,  which  it  is  believed  are  generally 
correct,  clearly  demonstrate  the  immense  advantages  which 
would  accrue  to  these  states  from  a  direct  internal  communica¬ 
tion  with  New-York ;  by  which  means,  instead  of  being  con¬ 
fined  to  the  fluctuating  and  uncertain  market  of  New-Orleans, 
they  would  be  enabled  at  all  seasons  to  take  advantage  of  the 
demand  for  their  produce  in  foreign  countries,  and  to  obtain  in 
return  such  imported  articles  as  they  might  need,  upon  the  most 
advantageous  terms,  and  with  the  least  trouble  and  delay. 


66 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


I  have  thus  concluded  my  remarks  on  the  union  of  Lake 
Michigan  with  the  Illinois,  having  endeavoured  to  point  out  its 
practicability,  to  make  an  estimate  ot*  its  probable  expense,  and 
to  unfold  its  advantages.  My  main  object  has  been  to  call  the 
attention  of  the  people  of  Illinois  and  Missouri  to  a  subject  which 
to  them  is  all  important. 

Besides  Michigan,  there  are  several  other  lakes  in  different 
parts  of  the  state,  but  they  are  small  and  unimportant,  and  ra¬ 
ther  deserve  the  name  of  ponds  ;  it  is  hence  not  necessary  to 
notice  them  particularly  in  this  place. 

Vegetable  Productions. —  The  botany  of  this  state,  al¬ 
though  a  very  interesting  subject,  would  be  by  far  too  extensive 
for  our  present  purpose.  Those  who  have  in  the  least  degree 
attended  to  the  diversity  of  the  soil  and  climate  of  Illinois,  must 
be  convinced  of  its  botanical  riches. 

T  he  forest  trees  most  common  upon  the  recently  formed  al¬ 
luvions,  are  the  cotton  wood,  (Populus  angulata,  L  )  sycamore, 
(Platanus  occidentalis,  L.)  and  several  different  species  of  the 
willow,  (Salix.)  On  the  older  alluvions,  and  on  the  uplands, 
the  variety  is  much  greater.  The  following  catalogue  may  not 
be  uninteresting  : — 


Ulmus  Americana,  Mx. 
Ulmus  fulva,  Mx. 

Acer  rub  rum,  L. 

Acer  saccharinum,  L. 
Acer  nigrum,  Mx. 

Acer  dasycarpuin,  L. 

Acer  striatum,  Mx. 
Quercus  tine  toria,  Wild. 
Quercus  palustris,  \\  ild. 
Quercus  alba,  Wild. 
Quercus  palustris,  \V. 
Quercus  nigra,  W. 
Quercus  macrocarpa,  Mx. 
Juglans  nigra,  L. 

Juglans  cinerea,  L. 

Cana  olivoeformis,  Nutt. 
Cary  a  alba,  Nutt, 


American,  or  White  elm. 
Slippery,  or  Red  elm. 

Red  maple. 

Sugar  maple. 

Black  maple. 

Soft  maple. 

Striped  maple,  or  Moose  wood. 
Black  oak. 

Swamp  oak. 

White  oak. 

Pin  oak. 

Blackjack. 

Over-cup  white  oak, 

Black  walnut. 

Butter  nut. 

Pecan  nut. 

Shag  bark. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


37 


Carya  glabra,  Nutt. 
Castanea  vesca,  Mx. 
Betula  nigra,  L. 

Betula  excelsa,  Ait. 
Betula  papyracea.  Wild. 
Fraxinus  concolor,  Mx.  f. 


Pig  nut. 

Chesnut,  (rare.) 
Black  birch. 
Yellow  birch. 
Canoe  birch. 
White  ash. 


Fraxinus  quadrangulata,  Mx,f.  Blue  ash. 


Tilia  Americana,  Wild. 
Celtis  crassifolia,  Wild. 
Laurus  sassifras,  L. 

Di  ospyros  Yirginica,  L. 
Prunus  serotina,  Wild 
Gleditschia  triacanthos,  L. 
Gleditschia  monosperma, 
Porcelia  triloba,  Pers. 
Carpinus  Americana,  Wild. 
Ostrya  Yirginica,  Wild. 
Fagus  ferruginea.  Ait. 


Bass-wood. 

Hagberry,  or  Hoop  ash. 
Sassifras. 

Percimon. 

Wihl  cherry. 

Honey  locust. 

Swamp  locust. 

Papaw. 

Hornbeam. 

Iron  wood. 

Beech. 

Gy innocladus  canadensis, Wild.  Coffee  tree. 

Pinus  strobus,  L.  White  pine,  said  to  be  common 

in  the  northern  parts  of  the  state. 
Cupressus  disticha,  Wild.  Cypress,  on  the  Ohio  river. 

Many  other  names  might  be  added  to  this  list,  but  the  above 
will  convey  an  idea  of  the  general  character  of  the  forests. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Illinois  and  Ohio,  indigenous  vines  are 
abundant,  and  yield  grapes,  which  might  advantageously  be 
made  into  wine.  It  is  also  probable,  from  the  success  that  has 
attended  the  cultivation  of  foreign  vines  in  similar  situations, 
that  they  would  flourish  in  the  southern  and  middle  sections  of 
this  state.  Most  of  the  vines  of  France  are  cultivated  on  bar¬ 
ren,  broken  and  sandy  soil.  Some  of  them,  however,  are  found 
to  flourish  on  low  moist  land,  where  in  some  seasons  they  pro¬ 
duce  abundantly.  Such  are  the  vineyards  of  lower  Burgundy* 
which  are  very  extensive,  and  which,  in  dry  seasons,  afford 
wines  little  inferior  to  those  of  upper  Burgundy  From  the  ma¬ 
ny  facts  which  are  at  present  known  in  regard  to  the  culture  of 
the  vine  in  different  parts  of  France  and  other  countries,  its  suc¬ 
cess  appears  to  depend  more  upon  local  circumstances  than 
latitude.  In  France,  it  is  found  to  succeed  in  all  the  different 


38 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 

situations,  from  the  valleys  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Briancon 
to  Mount  Lyons,  in  the  higher  Alps,  which  has  the  climate  of 
Sweden.  From  a  number  of  observations  made  on  this  subject, 
it  appears  that  a  southern  exposure  is  the  only  one  favorable  to 
the  cultivation  of  the  vine. 

Exotic  vines  have  been  successfully  cultivated  at  Glascow,  in 
Kentucky,  in  lat.  37°  N.  at  Vevay,  in  Indiana,  lat.  38°  30'  N.  at 
Harmony,  in  the  same  state,  in  lat.  38°  45' N.  and  at  Harmony, 
in  Pennsylvania,  still  farther  north.  In  Illinois,  they  were  for¬ 
merly  cultivated  by  the  Monks  of  La  Trappe,  at  their  establish¬ 
ment  on  the  American  Bottom,  opposite  St.  Louis.  From  these 
facts,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  Mis¬ 
sissippi  and  Illinois  in  this  state,  the  vine  might  be  made  a  val¬ 
uable  production.  The  climate  here  is  mild,  and  the  banks  of. 
these  streams,  for  nearly  two  thirds  of  the  year,  are  fanned  by 
warm  southerly  winds. 

But  if  the  cultivation  of  the  exotic  vines  should  prove  unsuc¬ 
cessful,  the  indigenous  ones  might  be  substituted.  The  Vitis 
sestivalis  produces  excellent  fruit  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  Mis¬ 
sissippi  and  Illinois,  in  what  may  be  called  a  deep  vegetable  loam. 
It  is  much  used  by  the  French  inhabitants  of  this  state,  who  con¬ 
vert  it  into  a  tolerable  wine.  No  doubt,  by  cultivation  and  care, 
this  grape  would  be  greatly  improved.  At  all  events,  when  we 
reflect  what  a  vast  revenue  is  derived  from  this  article  in  foreign 
countries,  the  experiment  deserves  a  fair  trial  upon  an  extensive 
scale.  A  consideration  not  less  important  is,  that  it  would  pro¬ 
bably  be  the  means  of  introducing  a  wholesome  beverage  in  the 
place  of  those  slow  but  certain  poisons  now  so  extensively  used. 

Maize  is  at  present  the  staple  production  of  this  state  :  This 
is  chiefly  owing  to  the  ease  with  which  it  can  be  cultivated.  It 
generally  yields  from  50  to  80  bushels  an  acre  ;  but  if  attended 
to  during  the  season,  it  frequently  yields  from  100  to  120,  and 
130  bushels. 

But  although  maize  is  by  far  the  most  extensively  cultivated, 
wheat  and  rye  also  flourish  here,  and  yield  abundant  crops,  par¬ 
ticularly  in  the  interior  of  the  state.  The  soil  is  also  well 
adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  oats,  flax,  barley,  &c.  &c.  The  do¬ 
mestic  grasses  are  as  yet  but  little  attended  to,  as  the  inhabit¬ 
ants  depend  chiefly  upon  those  which  are  found  indigenous  to 
the  prairies. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


39 


Cotton  lias  been  for  many  years  succ  essfully  cultivated  in  this 
state.  It  is  not  probable  that  it  will  ever  become  a  profitable 
article  of  export,  but  a  sufficiency  will  always  be  raised  for 
home  consumption. 

Tobacco ,  will  be  one  of  the  most  valuable  productions  of  Illi¬ 
nois,  the  soil  and  climate  being  in  every  respect  congenial  to  its 
growth. 

Hemp,  is  indigenous  in  the  southern  part  of  this  state,  as  well 
as  Missouri  ;  a  proof  that  its  cultivation  would  he  attended  with 
very  little  labour.  As  we  are  in  a  great  measure  indebted  to 
foreign  countries  for  this  article,  there  is  no  doubt  but  it  would 
become  a  most  valuable  production. 

As  might  well  be  supposed,  agriculture  in  this  state  is  still  in 
its  infancy,  the  attention  of  the  inhabitants  having  been  thus  far 
chiefly  directed  to  raising  a  sufficiency  for  their  own  consump¬ 
tion.  Now,  however,  that  many  of  them  are  comfortably  situ¬ 
ated,  possessing  not  only  all  the  necessaries,  but  even  the  luxu¬ 
ries  of  life,  they  arc  directing  their  attention  to  their  vast  agri¬ 
cultural  resources.  About  two  years  since,  a  state  agricultural 
society  was  formed  ;  and  from  what  has  already  been  done,  the 
most  beneficial  results  may  be  anticipated.  Premiums  are  of¬ 
fered  for  the  best  crops  of  wheat,  rye,  corn,  barley,  hemp,  to¬ 
bacco,  &c.  In  order  the  more  completely  to  carry  into  effect 
the  objects  of  the  society,  auxiliaries  are  forming  in  the  different 
counties.  The  important  results  which  have  uniformly  followed 
from  the  formation  of  these  societies  in  different  parts  of  Europe 
and  the  United  States,  warrant  the  conclusion  that  their  influ¬ 
ence  will  be  sensibly  felt  in  every  part  of  this  extensive  state, 

A  fact  stated  by  the  president*  of  the  state  agricultural  so¬ 
ciety,  in  an  address  delivered  at  the  last  annual  meeting,  de¬ 
serves  to  be  particularly  mentioned,  inasmuch  as  it  proves  the 
fertility  of  the  soil  of  the  prairies,  formerly  considered  unfit  for 
cultivation.  “  In  March  last,”  he  observes,  66 1  broke  up  a  piece 
of  fresh  prairie,  and  sow  ed  it  with  oats,  on  the  first  ploughing, 
harrowing  them  in,  but  not  until  the  latter  end  of  April,  through 
a  delay  in  obtaining  the  seed.  The  crop  was  about  SO  bushels 
per  acre.  In  September  it  was  ploughed  again,  and  sown  with 

*  Morris  Birdbeck,  Esq.  who  is  well  known  to  the  literary  world  as  the  author  of  a  Year  in  France, 
Travels  in  America,  kc. 


40 


GENERAL  VIEW  OE  ILLINOIS# 


barley,  which  is  promising.  In  the  spring  I  intend  to  sow 
mothy  and  clover.  Thus,  with  two  ploughings  and  two  liar- 
rowings,  may  be  obtained  two  crops,  and  the  land  brought  into 
a  state  to  receive  grass  seeds.” 

Animals. — Wolves,  •panthers,  and  wild  cats,  are  as  yet  very 
numerous.  The  increase  of  the  former  is  said  to  keep  pace  with 
the  increase  of  live  stock,  so  much  so  that  it  requires  all  the 
care  and  attention  of  the  farmer  to  prevent  their  ravages.  It 
has  been  suggested  by  some,  that  premiums  should  be  offered 
by  the  legislature  for  their  destruction.  Among  the  many  ex¬ 
pedients  offered  for  destroying  these  animals,  we  quote  the  fol¬ 
lowing  from  a  celebrated  French  work.*  The  first  consists  of 
two  needles,  tied  in  the  form  of  an  X,  with  horse  hair,  and  point¬ 
ed  at  both  ends.  After  bringing  them  together  at  the  points, 
and  thus  forcing  the  hair  by  which  they  are  bound,  and  then  tied 
lip  with  a  piece  of  gut  or  meat  of  middling  size,  these  pieces  are 
scattered  in  the  place  frequented  by  the  wolves  ;  they  are  swal¬ 
lowed  nearly  whole,  and  the  digestion  which  ensues,  disengages 
the  ligature,  and  restores  the  form  X,  which  pricking  the  sto¬ 
mach  of  the  animal,  causes  its  death.  The  second  expedient 
was  proposed  by  the  Abbe  Rosier,  who  served  himself  of  it  with 
effect.  Take  a  dead  dog,  goat  or  sheep,  and  introduce  into  the 
flesh  a  sufficient  quantity  of  nux  vomica ,  finely  pulverized  ;  the 
meat  to  be  then  smoked,  to  destroy  the  human  odour.  A  dog  is 
preferable,  as  another  animal  of  that  species  will  not  attack  it. 

Deer,  are  also  very  abundant  in  this  state,  and  are  very  va¬ 
luable,  particularly  to  the  poorer  class  of  its  inhabitants,  the 
flesh  affording  them  food,  and  the  skin,  clothing. — Foxes ,  rac¬ 
coons,  oppossums ,  gophars,  and  prairie  squirrels,  are  also  nume¬ 
rous  ;  the  two  for  mer  are  valuable  for  their  skins.  The  flesh  of 
the  oppossum  is  by  many  considered  a  great  luxury. 

The  brorvn  bear  is  also  an  inhabitant  of  this  state,  although  ho 
is  continually  retreating  before  the  advance  of  civilization. 

Wild  horses ,  are  found  ranging  the  prairies  and  forests  in  dif¬ 
ferent  parts  of  the  state.  They  are  generally  rather  diminutive 
in  size,  but  are  well  formed  and  very  hardy.  They  are  caught 
in  pens,  and  with  ropes  having  nooses  attached  to  them.  When 


*  Statistics  of  France,  by  M.  Peuchet  and  others.  This  work  has  been  abridged  and  translated  by 
J.  N.  Taylor  of  Washington  city. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


4l 


caught,  they  are  easily  broken  either  to  the  saddle  or  harness. 
The  poor  French,  win*  monopolize  the  business  of  catching  and 
breaking  these  horses,  make  them  an  article  of  traffic  ;  their 
common  price  is  from  20  to  40  dollars.  In  a  wooded  alluvion  at 
the  junction  of  the  Kaskaskia  and  Mississippi  rivers,  called 

the  pointy 9  these  horses  are  so  abundant  that  their  use  entirely 
supercedes  that  of  any  others.  It  has  been  supposed  by  some 
that  they  arc  indigenous,  but  it  is  most  probable  that  they  arc 
the  offspring  of  those  horses  which  were  brought  there  by  the 
first  settlers,  and  which  were  suffered  to  run  at  large.  They 
are  much  used  by  the  Indians,  for  which  reason  they  arc  fre¬ 
quently  called  Indian  ponies. 

MiNEUALs.-Frotn  the  description  which  has  already  been  giv¬ 
en  of  this  state,  it  will  not  appear  surprising  that  it  is  not  very 
rich  in  minerals.  The  soil  is  its  most  invaluable  and  inexhaust¬ 
ible  mine,  and  will  ever  constitute  its  greatest  source  of  wealth. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  sand  stone  is  very  abundant, 
and  is  useful  as  a  material  for  architectural  purposes.  North  of 
this  region*  secondary  limestone  forms  the  basis  rock,  and  it  is 
readily  burnt  into  lime.  Coal  is  found  in  great  abundance  in 
different  parts  of  the  state  ;  it  is  of  a  good  quality,  and  is  very 
valuable  on  account  of  the  scarcity  of  timber.  Lead  is  also  found 
in  large  quantities  near  the  junction  of  Bean  river  with  tho 
Mississippi.  The  mines  in  this  region  are  extensively  and  pro¬ 
fitably  worked  by  Col.  J.  Johnson,  who,  during  the  last  session  of 
congress,  obtained  the  exclusive  right  of  working  them  for  three 
years.  Copper  has  been  found  in  detac  hed  masses  on  the  banks 
of  the  Illinois  and  Big  Muddy  rivers,  but  it  is  very  doubtful 
whether  it  exists  in  any  quantity.  A  large  grant  made  by  the 
Spanish  government  to  Philip  Renault,  includes  a  copper  mine 
at  Peoria.”*  The.  Indians  have  at  different  times  informed  the 
traders  that  this  mineral  is  very  abundant,  but  they  are  as  yet 
unwilling  to  give  its  locality.  The  specimens  which  they  ex* 
liibit,  are,  according  to  the  best  information  1  have  been  able  to 
obtain,  similar  to  those  found  on  the  alluvion  ;  being  small  de¬ 
tached  masses,  which  appear  to  have  undergone  fusion.  Iron 
orCy  of  a  good  quality,  is  found  in  abundance  in  the  southern  part 
of  the  state.  Steatite  is  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Illinois  below 


See  Fort  Clark, 


6 


42 


GENERAL  VIEW  OE  ILLINOIS# 


the  rapids,  and  is  wrought  by  the  Indians  into  pipes  and  orna¬ 
ments  ot*  different  kinds.  Its  colour  is  deep  red  ;  in  hardness  it 
approaches  the  softer  varieties  of  serpentine  :  it  hardens  by  ex¬ 
posure.  Fluate  of  lime  occurs  at  alead  mine  near  Shawneetown. 
Its  colours,  which  are  very  beautiful,  are  various  shades  of  pur¬ 
ple,  violet,  and  blue;  some  specimens  are  entirely  limpid.  It 
is  found  accompanied  by  galena,  blende,  pyrites,  Ike  imbedded 
in  a  stiff  red  clay,  resting  on  secondary  limestone.  (  Schoolcraft.  J 
— Gypsum  is  also  found  in  a  crystallized  form  in  St.  Clair  coun¬ 
ty.  C Schoolcraft. J — Buhr-stone,  of  a  good  quality,  has  also  been 
found  near  the  confluence  of  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi  ;  but  it 
has  not  yet  been  ascertained  whether  it  exists  in  any  considera¬ 
ble  quantity. — Salt  springs  are  found  in  almost  every  county  in 
the  state,  and  are  an  inexhaustible  source  of  wealth.  The  Ohio 
saline,  near  Shawneetown,  is  at  present  the  most  valuable, 
yielding  to  the  state  a  revenue  of  about  $  10,000  per  annum. 
The  Muddy  saline,  near  Brownsville,  is  also  extensively  work¬ 
ed,  and  affords  good  salt.  The  salines  on  the  Sangamo  and 
Vermilion  of  the  W abash,  are  also  very  valuable. 

Climate. — The  climate  of  Illinois  being  similar  to  that  of 
Missouri,  the  reader  is  referred  to  that  article  in  the  genera! 
view  of  Missouri. 

Natural  Curiosities. — The  bank  of  the  Ohio  in  this  state 
presents  many  singular  appearances.  It  frequently  consists  of 
ledges  of  rock,  which  assume  the  most  fanciful  forms,  and  are 
penetrated  in  various  places  by  caverns  of  different  dimensions. 
Of  these,  the  most  remarkable  is  that  which  is  generally  known 
by  the  name  of Cave  in  Rock/’  or  “  House  of  Nature,”  which 
was  for  a  long  time  the  rendezvous  of  a  gang  of  robbers,  who 
plundered  and  murdered  the  crews  of  boats  navigating  the  Ohio. 
It  still  serves  as  a  temporary  abode  for  those  who  want  shelter 
in  case  of  shipwreck,  or  other  accidents  which  happen  to  emi¬ 
grants.  It  consists  of  several  large  rooms,  handsomely  arched, 
and  bounded  on  each  side  by  benches  of  solid  rock,  which  is  co¬ 
vered  with  stalactites,  and  abounds  with  organic  reliquse.* — 
Besides  this  cave,  there  are  a  number  of  others,  though  smaller, 
and  less  celebrated. 


*  For  a  more  particular  description  of  this  cave-  see  Cave  in  Rock . 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


4a 


Large  caves  are  also  very  abundant  in  the  steep  and  pictur¬ 
esque  cliffs  of*  the  Illinois.  The  Indians  suppose  them  to  be  the 
residence  of  the  Great  Spirit,  or  Manitou ,  and  are  their  places 
of  worship  and  sacrifice,  either  for  success  in  war  or  the  chase. 

The  Fossil  tree  of  the  Dos  Plaines,  though  not  uncommon  in 
this  country,  is  well  worthy  the  attention  of  the  curious  and  sci¬ 
entific.  It  has  been  described  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft,  and  will  be 
more  particularly  noticed  under  the  head  of (  Riviere  Des  Plaines .* 

Antiquities.  On  the  American  Bottom,  mounds  are  very 
numerous.  The  most  considerable  assemblage  is  about  8  miles 
above  St.  Louis  In  the  circuit  of  4  or  5  miles  there  are  up¬ 
wards  of  40  mounds  of  different  forms  and  dimensions.  The 
largest  of  these  is  called  the  Monk  mound,  from  its  having  for¬ 
merly  been  the  residence  of  a  few  monks  of  the  order  of  La 
Trappe.  Its  shape  is  that  of  a  parallelogram,  extending  from 
north  to  south.  The  circumference  of  its  base  is  about  800  yards, 
and  the  height  about  30.  The  other  mounds  are  of  a  smaller 
size,  and  are  scattered  through  the  plain  at  irregular  distances 
from  each  other.  Near  them  are  found  pieces  of  flint,  frag¬ 
ments  of  earthen  vessels,  and  frequently  human  bones.  Mount 
Joliet ,  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  Riviere  des  Plaines,  is  about 
3  or  400  yards  in  length,  and  2  or  300  in  breadth.  Its  form  is 
that  of  a  prism  ;  it  is  evidently  the  work  of  art,  and  is  probably 
the  largest  mound  in  the  United  States.  From  the  river,  it  ap¬ 
pears  nearly  square.  It  received  its  name  from  Joliet,  a  Cana¬ 
dian,  who  first  observed  it  in  1773.  Near  the  Ohio  saline, 
large  fragments  of  earthenware,  are  continually  found,  both  on 
and  under  the  surface  of  the  earth.  They  have  the  impression 
of  basket  or  wicker  work,  similar  to  those  found  on  the  Merri- 
mack  and  Missouri  rivers.  Similar  fragments  have  also  been 
found  near  Harrissonville,  in  St.  Clair  county. 

Land  Districts.  For  the  purpose  of  survey  and  sale,  the 
state  of  Illinois  is  divided  into  land  districts,  which  are  desig¬ 
nated  as  follows  : 

The  Land  District  of  Vandalia ,  is  bounded  north  by  the  north¬ 
ern  boundary  of  the  state,  east  by  the  range  line  between  numbers 
3  and  9,  south  by  the  base  line,  and  west  by  the  3d  principal 
meridian.  The  land  office  is  at  Vandalia. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS, 


The  Land  District  at  Shawneetown ,  comprehends  that  part  of 
the  state,  bounded  north  by  the  base  line,  east  and  south  by  the 
by  the  boundaries  of  the  state,  and  west  by  the  3d  principal  me¬ 
ridian.  Land  office  at  Shawneetown. 

The  Land  District  of  Kaskaskias,  is  bounded  north  by  the  base 
line,  east  by  the  3d  principal  meridian,  south  and  west  by  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers.  Land  office  at  Kaskaskias. 

The  Land  District  of  Palestine ,  is  bounded  north  and  east  by 
the  boundaries  of  the  state,  south  by  the  base  line,  and  west  by 
the  range  line  between  the  lines  numbered  8  and  9,  east  of  the 
3d  principal  meridian.  The  land  office  is  at  Palestine. 

The  Land  District  of  EdivurdsviUe,  is  bounded  north  and  west 
by  the  boundaries  of  the  state,  east  by  the  3d  principal  meridi¬ 
an,  and  south  by  the  base  line,  1  he  land  office  is  at  Edwards- 
ville. 

By  an  act  passed  during  the  last  session  of  congress,  a  new 
land  district  was  erected  from  the  land  district  of  Edwardsville, 
comprising  so  much  of  the  public  lands  of  the  United  States  as 
lie  north  of  the  line  separating  the  thirteenth  and  fourteenth 
tiers  of  townships  north  of  the  base  line,  and  west  of  the  third 
pri  ncipal  meridian.  The  act  also  provides  that  a  land  office 
shall  be  established  at  such  place  therein,  as  the  president  of  the 
United  States  shall  designate,  until  the  same  shall  be  perma¬ 
nently  fixed  by  law  ;  but  the  appointments  of  register  and  re~ 
ceiver  are  not  to  he  made  until  a  sufficient  quantity  of  public 
lands  shall  have  been  surveyed  within  the  said  district,  to  au¬ 
thorize,  in  the  opinion  of  the  president,  a  public  sale  of  lands. 

Government.  The  constitution  of  Illinois  was  adopted  by 
a  convention  held  at  Kaskaskia,  in  August,  1818.  It  provides 
for  the  distribution  of  the  powers  of  government  into  three  dis¬ 
tinct  departments — the  legislative,  executive  and  judiciary. — 
The  legislative  authority  is  vested  in  a  general  assembly,  con¬ 
sisting  of  a  senate  and  house  of  representatives,  each  of  which 
bodies  are  elected  every  two  years  by  the  people.  The  senators 
va<  ate  their  seats  in  rotation.  The  executive  is  vested  in  the 
governor,  who  is  chosen  every  fourth  year  by  the  electors  for 
representatives;  at  which  time  the  lieutenant  governor  is  also 
elected.  The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  supreme  court,  and 
such  inferior  courts  as  the  general  assembly  shall  from  time  to 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS, 


45 


time  establish.  The  supreme  court  consists  of  a  chief  justice 
and  three  associates,  who  are  appointed  by  joint  ballot  of  both 
houses  of  the  assembly,  and  they  hold  their  offices  until  1824, 
at  which  time  their  commissions  expire  ;  but  after  that  period, 
the  justices  of  the  supreme  court,  and  of  the  inferior  courts,  hold 
their  offices  during  good  behaviour.  The  governor  and  judges 
of  the  supreme  court  constitute  a  council  of  revision,  to  w  hich 
all  bills  that  have  passed  the  assembly  must  be  presented.  Al¬ 
though  the  council  of  revision  may  return  a  bill  with  their  ob~ 
jertions,  a  majority  of  the  members  may  pass  it  into  a  law7* 
The  governor  nominates,  and  with  the  consent  of  the  senate, 
appoints  to  all  offices  not  otherwise  provided  for  by  the  consti¬ 
tution.  The  right  of  suffrage  is  universal.  All  white  male  in¬ 
habitants  who  have  resided  in  the  state  six  months  preceding 
elections,  enjoy  the  right  of  electors  ;  and  it  was  provided  that 
all  votes  should  be  given  viva  voce,  until  altered  by  the  general 
assembly.  Slavery  is  prohibited  in  this  state.  The  constitution 
can  only  be  altered  by  a  convention. 

Education. — By  the  act  of  congress  admitting  the  state  of 
Illinois  into  the  union  upon  an  equal  footing  with  the  original 
states,  the  U.  States  granted  to  it  the  sixteenth  section  in  every 
township,  and  where  such  section  has  been  sold  or  otherwise 
disposed  of,  other  lands  equiv  alent  thereto,  as  contiguous  as  may 
be,  for  the  use  of  schools  ;  besides  three  per  cent  of  the  nett: 
proceeds  of  lands  lying  within  this  state,  and  which  shall  be  sold 
by  congress  from  and  after  the  1st  January,  1819 — of  which 
one  sixth  part  is  to  be  exclusively  bestowed  on  a  college  or  uni¬ 
versity.  In  addition  to  which,  two  entire  townships  were  grant¬ 
ed  for  the  use  of  a  seminary  of  learning,  and  vested  in  the  le¬ 
gislature  of  the  state,  to  be  appropriated  solely  to  the  use  of  such 
seminary. 

As  the  condition  of  these  liberal  grants,  the  convention  which 
formed  the  constitution  of  this  state,  ordained  by  a  statute, 
which  is  irrevocable  without  the  consent  of  the  United  States, 
that  every  tract  of  land  sold  by  the  United  States  after  January 
1819,  should  be  exempt  from  any  tax  tor  five  years  ;  and  that 
bounty  lands  granted  for  military  services  during  the  war, 
should,  while  they  continue  in  the  hands  of  the  soldier,  be  exempt 
from  taxes  for  three  years  from  and  after  the  date  of  each  pa- 


46 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


tent  ;  and  that  all  lands  belonging  to  the  citizens  of  the  United 
States  residing  without  the  said  state,  should  never  be  taxed 
higher  than  lands  belonging  to  persons  residing  therein. 

History. — About  the  middle  of  the  17th  century,  the  French 
began  to  turn  their  attention  to  the  discovery  of  the  Mississippi, 
They  had  heard  from  some  Indians  who  visited  Canada,  that 
there  was  towards  the  west  a  large  river ,  but  they  could  obtain  no 
information  in  regard  to  its  course  or  extent.  The  attention  of 
the  enterprizing  had  for  a  long  time  been  directed  to  the  disco¬ 
very  of  a  North  West  passage ;  and  the  hints  which  they  re¬ 
ceived  of  the  existence  of  a  river  west  of  the  lakes,  were  calcu¬ 
lated  to  give  additional  confidence,  and  render  them  more  san¬ 
guine.  They  supposed  that  this  river  emptied  itself  into  the 
Pacific  ocean,  and  that  it  also  formed  a  communication  with  the 
lakes,  and  thus  vainly  imagined  that  they  had  at  once  discovered 
the  great  object  of  their  wishes.  Anxious  to  signalize  himself 
and  his  nation,  M.  Talon,  the  intendant  of  New-France,  a  man 
of  superior  genius,  determined  to  settle  this  important  question 
previous  to  leaving  America.  He  gave  the  charge  of  the  in¬ 
vestigation  to  P.  Marquette,  a  Jesuit,  who  had  already  travelled 
over  almost  all  the  Canadas,  and  who  was  much  respected  by 
the  savages  ;  and  associated  with  him  a  man  of  courage  and 
experience,  named  Joliet.  Having  made  the  necessary  prepa¬ 
rations,  they  embarked  from  the  mouth  of  Fox  river,  and  as¬ 
cended  it  to  near  its  source ;  then  crossed  westward  by  land, 
until  they  intersected  the  Ouisconsin  ;  and  descending  this,  they 
reached  the  Mississippi  on  the  17th  of  June,  1673.  They  found 
that  river  much  larger  and  deeper  than  it  had  been  represented 
to  them  by  the  savages.  They  were  delighted  with  the  beauty 
and  fertility  of  its  banks,  and  every  day’s  journey  furnished 
them  with  new  subjects  of  admiration.  Unfortunately,  the  regular 
journal  which  they  kept,  was  lost,  when  on  their  return  to  Ca¬ 
nada.  It  appears,  however,  from  the  account  of  Joliet,  that 
they  found  the  natives  friendly,  and  with  the  assistance  of  a  few 
presents,  they  obtained  such  provisions  as  they  were  in  need  of. 
But  a  tradition  existed  among  the  savages,  that  there  was  on 
the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  belowr  the  Missouri,  a  Manitou ,  or 
Spirit,  which  it  was  impossible  for  any  being  to  pass.  This  in¬ 
formation  was  communicated  to  the  adventurers,  and  being:  but 

*  tj 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


47 


lew  in  number,  they  determined  not  to  pursue  their  journey 
south,  but  to  return  to  Canada  bv  the  way  of  the  Illinois.  It  is 
uncertain  how  far  they  descended  the  Mississippi ;  it  being  as¬ 
serted  by  .some  that  they  readied  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas, 
(or  Akanccas,  as  it  was  then  called  ;)  by  others,  that  they  did 
not  proceed  farther  south  than  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri. 

Upon  ascending  the  Illinois,*  they  found  new  objects  of  ad¬ 
miration.  It  formed  such  a  contrast  with  the  stream  which  they 
had  just  left,  its  water  being  clear,  its  current  gentle,  and  its 
Jbanks  interspersed  with  plains  and  woodlands,  that  they  were  en¬ 
raptured  with  its  beauty.  They  were  well  received,  and  were 
treated  very  hospitably  by  the  natives,  particularly  by  the  Illi¬ 
nois.  They  found  this  tribe  destitute  of  that  savage  cruelty  so 
characteristic  of  the  natives  of  that  day  ;  on  the  contrary,  they 
prided  themselves  much  upon  their  hospitality  and  generosity. 
The  pious  Marquette,  touched  with  their  deplorable  situation, 
and  their  desire  of  learning  the  arts  of  civilization,  determined 
to  remain  among  them,  and  spend  the  remainder  of  his  life  in. 
the  service  of  his  God.f  Thus  we  see,  that  even  at  that  early 
period,  there  were  those  who  were  willing  to  endure  every  pri¬ 
vation,  that  they  might  be  serviceable  to  their  fellow-creatures  ; 
and  it  is  but  justice  to  observe,  that  the  Jesuits  were  at  that  day 
foremost  on  the  list  of  philanthropists  throughout  the  world. 
Joliet  parted  with  Marquette,  and  in  a  short  time  reached  Ca¬ 
nada,  where  he  gave  an  account  of  the  discoveries  he  had  made. 

After  the  return  of  Joliet,  and  the  departure  of  M.  Talon  from 
Canada,  the  French  appear  to  have  lost  sight  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  no  measures  were  taken  to  prosecute  a  discovery  commen¬ 
ced  under  such  favourable  auspices ;  and  although  an  extensive 
field  of  speculation  was  opened  to  the  adventurous,  several  years 
elapsed  before  any  one  attempted  to  follow  the  track  of  Marquette 
and  Joliet. 

M.  de  la  Salle,  a  native  of  Rouen  in  Normandy,  who  had  re¬ 
sided  for  many  years  in  Canada,  and  who  was  a  man  of  enter- 
prize  and  intelligence,  was  the  first  to  revive  the  plan  of  M. 

*  According  to  Hennepin,  this  name  is  derived  from  Mini;  which,  in  the  language  of  the  Illinois, 
signifies  a  perfect  and  accomplished  man. 

*  Charlevoix  gives  an  affecting  account  of  the  extraordinary  death  of  this  good  old  man. 


48 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


Talon,  in  regard  to  the  discovery  of  the  Mississippi  and  tho 
country  which  it  watered. 

When  Joliet  arrived  in  Montreal  with  the  news  of  his  disco¬ 
veries,  La  Salle  was  engaged  in  the  favorite  project  of  a  North¬ 
west  passage  to  China  and  Japan  *  He  did  not  doubt  what  was 
asserted  by  this  traveller,  that  the  Mississippi  discharges  itself 
into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  ;  hut  he  flattered  himself  that  by  ascend¬ 
ing  it  he  should  discover  the  object  of  his  researches.  Should 
he  fail  in  this,  how  ever,  he  had  no  doubt  but  the  discovery  of  its 
junction  with  the  ocean  would  have  a  tendency  to  establish  his 
fortune  and  his  reputation.  Being  zealous  for  the  honour  of  his 
nation,  he  determined  to  signalize  the  French  name  by  a  plan 
of  operations,  than  which  none  could  be  more  important,  none 
more  splendid.  Having  already  given  frequent  proofs  of  his 
uncommon  talents,  he  had  gained  the  esteem  of  the  governors  of 
Canada,  and  had  several  times  been  employed  in  expeditions 
which  contributed  much  to  the  honour  and  advantage  of  the  co¬ 
lony  ;  this  facilitated,  in  a  material  degree,  the  prosecution  of 
his  plans.  He  accordingly  left  Canada  for  France,  to  obtain 
the  sanction  and  assistance  of  his  sovereign,  and  to  make  the 
necessary  arrangements  for  the  prosecution  of  the  discovery. 
When  he  arrived  at  court,  he  unfolded  his  plans,  proved  its  vast 
importance  to  the  French  nation,  and  the  facility  with  which 
they  might  be  accomplished.  The  king  was  so  well  pleased 
with  the  views  of  La  Saile,  that  he  riot  only  sanctioned  his  en¬ 
ter-prize,  but  supplied  him  with  men  and  means  for  tiie  prosecu¬ 
tion  of  the  discovery.  In  the  language  ofTonti,  66  His  Majesty, 
not  content  with  merely  approving  his  design,  caused  orders  to 
be  given  him,  granting  him  permission  to  go  and  put  it  into  ex¬ 
ecution,  and  to  assist  him  to  carry  so  vast  a  project  into  effect ; 
shortly  after,  the  necessary  succours  were  furnished  him,  with 
entire  liberty  to  dispose  of  all  the  countries  which  he  should 
discover:” 

La  Salle,  after  making  the  necessary  arrangements,  left 
Fram  e  in  July,  1678,  and  arrived  in  Quebec  during  the  month 
ot  September  of  that  year.  He  then  proceeded  to  Fort  Fron- 
tenac,  on  Lake  Ontario,  of  which  he  had  been  appointed  gover¬ 
nor.  Here  he  made  some  repairs,  and  leaving  a  few  men  as  a 


*  Charlevoix’s  History  ot  New  France. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


4$ 

garrison*  proceeded  on  his  journey.  On  the  18th  of  November 
of  this  year,  he  left  the  fort,  with  the  Chevalier  Tonti  as  his 
lieutenant,  Father  Hennepin  as  his  chaplain,  and  30  or  40  men. 
La  Salle  now  engaged  himself  for  about  a  year  in  examining 
the  country  bordering  on  the  lakes,  and  in  selecting  proper  sites 
for  the  erection  of  forts.  His  object  in  this  was,  to  secure  to 
the  Canadas  the  whole  trade  of  the  Indians  residing  in  the  coun¬ 
try  now  known  as  the  northern  and  western  parts  of  the  states 
of  New- York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Ohio.  This  was  rendered  the 
more  necessary,  on  account  of  the  exertions  which  were  made 
by  the  English  and  Dutch  to  divert  the  trade  to  the  south. 
After  La  Salle  had  effected  this  object,  and  had  commenced  a 
profitable  trade  at  his  different  posts,  he  determined  to  continue 
his  discovery.  Previous  to  his  departure,  however,  he  com¬ 
menced  a  considerable  fort  at  Niagara,  then  a  village  of  the 
Iroquois,  which  be  intended  as  his  place  of  entrepot  between 
Canada  and  the  countries  he  should  discover.  The  Iroquois, 
who  were  then  a  powerful  nation,  viewed  this  with  considerable 
jealousy  ;  and  La  Salle,  fearing  that  it  might  be  the  cause  of 
hostility,  abandoned  the  project,  and  contented  himself  with  the 
erection  of  pallisadoes  merely  for  the  protection  of  his  magazine. 
His  object  was  to  influence  the  savages  by  mild  and  conciliatory 
measures,  and  he  was  therefore  unwilling  to  persevere  in  any 
plan  which  had  to  them  the  appearance  of  coercion  or  force, 
unless  it  was  absolutely  necessary  for  the  protection  of  himself 
or  his  party.  After  he  had  built  a  small  vessel  at  Niagara,  and 
left  a  few  men  for  the  defence  of  the  fort  and  stores,  he  passed 
through  Lake  Erie  and  entered  the  Huron,  where  he  had  to  en¬ 
counter  much  difficulty  on  account  of  the  storms  which  now  pre¬ 
vailed.  He,  however,  passed  through  in  safety,  and  entered 
Lake  Michigan  ;  and  after  remaining  a  short  time  at  the  Bay 
of  Puants,  (Cireen  Bay,)  for  the  purpose  of  trading,  proceeded 
with  his  men  in  canoes  to  the  southern  extremity  of  the  lake, 
and  landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  Miamis  on  the  1st  of 
November,  1679.*  After  building  a  small  fort  at  this  place, 
and  leaving  it  in  c  harge  of  8  or  10  men,  he  passed  over  to  the 
head  waters  of  the  Illinois,  and  descended  that  stream  for  a 
considerable  distance,  but  was  obliged  to  stop  for  the  want  of 


*  Tonti?s  account  of  the  voyage  of  La  Salle. 


50 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS, 


supplies.  This  was  occasioned  by  the  loss  of  a  boat  which  hail 
been  sent  from  his  establishment  at  the  Bay  of  Founts.  Ne¬ 
cessity  now  compelled  him  to  turn  his  attention  to  the  construc¬ 
tion  of  a  fort  for  his  defence  ;  and  after  having  selected  a  suit- 
aide  site,  he  commenced  building  it,  which,  when  completed,  he 
ca  ted  Creve-ccenr ,  (broken  heart ;)  for  he  had  suffered  much 
anxiety  and  distress  of  mind,  on  account  of  the  disappointments 
he  had  met  with,  and  the  appearance  of  hostility  among  the  In¬ 
dians.  This  hostility,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  w  as  occasioned 
by  the  perfidy  of  some  of  his  own  men.  The  French,  as  has 
been  before  mentioned,  ever  since  their  first  visit  to  this  country, 
had  been  well  treated  by  the  Illinois,  and  were  considered  by 
them  as  their  true  friends.  The  Illinois  being  engaged  in  a  war 
with  the  Iroquois,  a  numerous,  warlike,  and  cruel  tribe,  accord¬ 
ing  to  their  savage,  and  perhaps  correct  notions  of  friendship, 
expected  assistance  from  the  French.  La  Salle,  however,  being 
convinced  that  his  safety  as  well  as  his  success  depended  upon 
the  termination  of  this  warfare,  used  ail  his  efforts  to  accomplish 
this  object.  This  was  construed  by  some  of  the  evil  spirits  of 
the  Illinois,  into  treachery  ;  and  their  suspicions  were  strength¬ 
ened  by  the  w  icked  and  malicious  representations  of  some  of  the 
French,  who  told  them  that  it  was  La  Salle’s  intention  to  form 
an  alliance  with  their  enemies  the  Iroquois,  t  he  Illinois  now 
pronounced  the  sentence  of  death  upon  La  Salle,  and  would  have 
put  it  into  execution,  had  it  not  been  for  the  firmness  and  cour¬ 
age  which  he  afterwards  evinced.  As  soon  as  he  was  apprised 
of  what  had  taken  place,  he  went  forth  alone  to  the  camp  of  the 
Illinois,  and  addressing  the  chiefs,  stated,  that  in  coming  among 
them,  he  had  the  most  honourable,  as  well  as  pea*  eful  intentions ; 
that  he  h#d  always  considered  them  as  his  friends,  and  that  he 
was  ready  and  w  illing  to  give  them  all  the  assistance  in  his 
power.  He  stated  to  them  the  impropriety  of  being  thus  en¬ 
gaged  in  war,  as  he  w  ished  to  he  friendly  with  all  the  tribes, 
which  he  could  not,  under  existing  circumstances.  He  declared 
to  them,  that  he  had  never  offered  any  assistance  to  the  Iroquois* 
but  that  his  object  in  visiting  them  was  to  terminate  the  war. 
He  then  concluded,  by  demanding  of  them  the  author  of  this 
base  and  wilful  misrepresentation  ;  stating  -hat  i {'he  would  now 
appear  and  substantiate  the  charge,  ne  was  willing  to  suffer  the 


GENERAL  VIEW  OP  ILLINOIS. 


51* 

Sentence  which  they  iia<!  so  hastily  pronounced  upon  him.  The 
Savages  were  lost  in  astonishment.  The  coolness  and  bravery 
which  La  Salle  displayed,  together  with  the  eloquence  of  his 
harangue,  had  such  an  overpowering  effect,  that  they  instantly 
abandoned  the  purposes  of  revenge  upon  which  they  had  deter¬ 
mined.  The  calumet  of  peace  was  now  smoked  ;  presents  were 
mutually  exchanged,  and  the  Illinois  made  the  most  solemn  pro¬ 
mises  that  they  would  he  the  friends  of  La  Salle,  and  would 
never  again  give  credence  to  the  accusations  which  might  be 
brought  against  him  * 

Peace  being  now  established,  La  Salle  again  turned  his  at¬ 
tention  to  the  prosecution  of  his  discoveries  ;  and  in  order  the 
more  expeditiously  to  explore  the  northern  and  southern  coun¬ 
try,  his  plati  was,  that  Father  Hennepin  should  ascend  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi  to  its  source  ;  that  Touti  should  remain  at  Creve-coeur, 
while  he  should  descend  the  river  to  its  mouth  Accordingly, 
Hennepin  embarked  on  the  28th  of  February,  1680  ;  and  having 
passed  down  the  Illinois  into  the  Mississippi,  ascended  the  latter 
as  high  as  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony.  Shortly  after  he  was  taken 
prisoner,  robbed  of  his  property,  and  carried  to  some  Indian 
villages.  But  he  soon  made  his  escape,  and  returned  to  Canada 
by  the  way  of  the  Ouisconsin  ;  and  from  thence  he  sailed  im¬ 
mediately  for  France,  where  he  published  an  account  of  his 
travels.f 

La  Salle,  after  having  visited  Canada  for  the  purpose  of 
making  further  arrangements,  returned  to  Cre\e-roeur ;  and 
shortly  after  descended  the  Illinois  to  the  Mississippi,  where  he 
arrived  in  February,  1683.  He  then  descended  the  latter 
stream,  built  one  or  two  forts  on  its  banks,  and  took  a  form  il 
possession  of  the  country  in  the  name  of  the  king  of  Fn  nee, 
and  in  honour  of  him  called  it  Louisiana . 

It  is  not  necessary  to  my  present  purpose,  to  give  a  detailed 
account  of  the  subsequent  operations  of  La  Salle.  Suffice  it  to 
say,  that  after  descending  the  Mississippi  to  its  mouth,  he  re¬ 
turned  to  Canada  by  the  way  of  the  Illinois  ;  that  from  Canada 
he  went  to  France,  where  an  expedition  was  immediately  fitted 


*  Tonti,  as  before  referred  to. 

fin  a  subsequent  edition  of  this  work,  Hennepin  asserts  that  he  descended  the  Mississippi  to  the 
sea;  but  in  this  he  lias  been  detected  in  attempting  a  most  shameful  imposture. 


52 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS, 


for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  colony  at  the  mouth  of  the  Missis* 
sippi  ;  that  he  sailed  from  France  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  where 
he  made  several  unsuccessful  attempts  to  accomplish  his  pur¬ 
pose  ;  that  being  unable  to  discover  the  mouth  ot  the  Missis¬ 
sippi,  he  determined  on  going  by  land  to  his  fort  on  the  Illinois  ; 
and  that  on  tins  journey  he  was  basely  assassinated  by  two  oi 
his  own  men,  in  1687. 

Tonti,  who  had  been  left  in  command  on  the  Illinois,  after 
building  a  new  fort*  a  short  distance  above  Creve-cceu r,  de¬ 
scended  the  Mississippi  to  meet  La  Salle,  in  pursuance  ot  an 
agreement  which  had  been  made  between  them.  But  this  plan 
being  frustrated  by  the  unfortunate  events  already  related,  he 
again  returned  to  the  Illinois.  On  his  return,  his  companions 
were  pleased  with  many  parts  of  the  country  through  which  they 
passed,  and  some  of  them  desired  permission  to  remain,  which 
was  readily  granted.  It  is  probable  that  this  was  the  first  com¬ 
mencement  of  the  settlement  at  Kaskaskia,  Prairie  du  Roc  her, 
and  Cahokia. 

After  the  death  of  La  Salle,  no  attempts  were  made  to  dis¬ 
cover  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  until  about  the  year  1699. 
In  the  mean  time,  however,  the  settlements  on  the  Illinois  were 
gradually  increasing  in  population,  by  emigration  from  Canada. 

In  1712,  the  whole  colony  of  Louisiana  was  granted  to  M. 
Crosat,  by  letters  patent  from  the  king  of  France.  This  grant 
secured  to  him  all  the  commerce  of  the  colony,  and  all  the  profits 
accruing  from  the  mines  and  minerals  he  should  discover,  with 
the  exception  of  one  fifth  of  the  gold  and  silver,  which  was  re¬ 
served  to  the  king.  But  Crosat  was  disappointed  in  his  ex¬ 
pectations  in  regard  to  the  profits  of  the  trade  of  Louisiana. 
There  were  many  causes  which  operated  to  produce  this  effect. 
Without  paying  the  least  attention  to  the  cultivation  ol  the  soil, 
which  possessed  in  itself  hidden  treasure,  the  whole  object  of  his 
attention  was  the  search  for  the  precious  metals.  These  he 
supposed  to  exist  in  large  quantities  ;  and  such  was  his  folly  and 
infatuation,  that  when  he  failed  in  this,  he  considered  the  coun¬ 
try  of  little  or  no  consequence.  He  therefore  gave  up  his  pri¬ 
vilege  to  the  Ring  in  17  17.  The  colony  was  soon  after  granted 
to  the  Mississippi  company,  projected  by  the  celebrated  Law. 


*  Fort  St.  Louis,  probably  a  few  miles  above  Peoria. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


53 


This  company,  which  had  engrossed  almost  the  whole  commerce 
of  France,  under  the  name  of  the  “  Company  of  the  Indies,"  took 
possession  of  Louisiana,  and  appointed  M.  Bienville  governor  of 
the  colony.  At  this  time,  the  most  extravagant  accounts  of  this 
country  were  industriously  circulated  throughout  all  Europe, 
and  “  the  Mississippi  became  the  centre  of  all  men’s  wishes, 
hopes,  and  expectations.” 

Shortly  after  this,  several  forts  were  built  within  the  present 
limits  of  the  state  of  Illinois,  the  most  considerable  of  which 
were  Fort  Chartres,  and  one  at  Kaskaskia.  By  this  means 
they  were  enabled  not  only  to  protect  their  trade,  but  to  form  a 
complete  chain  of  communication  and  defence  from  the  Canadas 
to  the  French  forts  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi. 

For  some  time  previous  to,  and  after  the  time  that  the  Missis¬ 
sippi  company  relinquished  their  concerns  to  the  government, 
the  settlements  of  the  Illinois  country,  as  well  as  those  of  the 
whole  colony,  appear  to  have  been  in  a  languishing  condition. 
An  unhappy  dispute  now  arose  between  the  English  and  French, 
in  regard  to  the  true  boundary  between  their  colonies,  which 
had  never  been  defined.  The  French  anticipating  a  struggle 
for  their  American  possessions,  strengthened  their  posts  along 
the  Mississippi  and  the  lakes,  by  which  means  they  intended  to 
engross  the  whole  fur  trade  of  the  west.  This  was  a  measure 
which  excited  the  jealousy  of  the  English,  who,  by  virtue  of 
their  charters,  conceived  they  had  a  right  to  navigate  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi.  With  these  views,  a  company  of  merchants  and  plant¬ 
ers  obtained  a  considerable  tract  of  land  near  the  Ohio,  but 
within  the  province  of  Virginia ;  and  were  established  by  a 
charter,  under  the  name  of  the  Ohio  company,  with  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  trading  to  that  river.  ^  This  was  cause  of  hostilities 
between  the  two  powers,  which  continued  until  1763,  when  the 
Illinois  country  was  ceded  to  the  English. 

In  1765,  Capt.  Sterling,  of  the  royal  Highlanders,  in  his 
majesty’s  name,  took  possession  of  that  part  of  the  Illinois 
country  which  had  been  ceded  to  Great  Britain.  He  continued 
in  command  but  a  short  time,  and  was  succeeded  by  Major 
Farmer,  who  was  relieved  by  Col.  Reed  in  1766.  With  the  ad¬ 
ministration  of  the  latter,  the  inhabitants  were  much  displeased. 


*  Bissett’s  continuation  of  Hume  and  Smollett’s  History  of  England. 


54 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


The  administration  of  justice,  which  was  wholly  in  the  hands  of 
the  military  commandant,  was  an  engine  of  the  most  grievous 
oppression.  Complaints  were  made  by  the  inhabitants,  but  they 
produced  little  or  no  effect.  Col.  Reed,  however,  left  the  colony 
in  1768,  and  was  succeeded  hy  Lieut.  Col.  Wilkins,  who  arrived 
at  K  tskaskia  on  the  5th  of  September  in  the  same  year. 

On  the  21st  of  November,  1768,  Col.  W  ilkins  made  a  procla¬ 
mation,  in  which  he  stated  that  he  had  received  orders  from 
General  Gage,  commander  in  chief  in  America,  to  establish  a 
court  of  justice,  for  settling  and  determining  all  the  differences 
and  affairs  which  the  inhabitants  might  have  among  themselves. 
In  pursuance  of  these  orders,  he  appointed  seven  judges,  to 
settle  all  matters  in  relation  to  debt  and  property,  both  real 
ami  personal.  They  were  ordered  to  meet  for  the  first  time 
at  Fort  Chartres  on  the  6th  of  December  following,  and  after¬ 
wards  once  in  every  month  Although  this  was  far  preferable 
to  the  former  judiciary  system,  the  inhabitants  remonstrated 
against  it,  and  insisted  on  the  right  of  trial  by  jury,  which  was 
denied  them. 

Little  change  was  produced  in  the  situation  of  this  colony, 
until  the  breaking  out  of  the  American  revolution.  In  1778,  in 
consequence  of  the  outrages  committed  hy  the  savages  at  the 
instigation  of  the  English,  the  Virginia  militia  made  some  suc¬ 
cessful  incursions  into  the  Illinois  country,  and  took  possession 
of  the  British  posts  on  the  Mississippi.  These,  hy  an  act  of  the 
Virginia  legislature,  were  erected  into  a  county,  called  the  coun¬ 
ty  of  Illinois ;  and  a  regiment  of  infantry,  with  a  troop  of  ca¬ 
valry,  were  voted  for  its  protection.  The  command  of  these 
troops  was  given  to  Col.  George  Rogers  Clark,  a  gentleman 
whose  great  courage,  uncommon  hardihood,  and  capacity  for 
Indian  warfare,  had  given  him  repeated  success  in  enterprizes 
against  the  savages.  He  remained  for  a  short  time  at  Kaskas- 
kia.  and  then  conducted  a  successful  expedition  against  Post  St. 
Vincent,  now  Vincennes.* 

This  territory,  which  hy  conquest  became  the  property  of 
Virginia,  was  afterwards  ceded  to  the  United  States,  and  was 
included  within  the  limits  of  Indiana  territory,  established  in 
1800  ;  a  which  time,  the  country,  within  the  present  boundaries 


*  Marshall’s  Life  of  Washington. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


55 


of  Illinois*  contained  about  3000  inhabitants.  But  on  account 
of  the  fertility  of  the  lands,  and  the  inducements  which  were 
pre.semed  to  enterprising  men,  the  population  rapidly  increased. 
In  1809,  it  was  erected  into  a  territory,  the  population  ol  which, 
in  1810,  amounted  to  12,282. 

During  the  last  contest  between  the  United  States  and  Great 
Britain,  the  inhabitants  of  Illinois,  in  common  with  the  other 
frontier  districts,  felt  the  evils  of  warfare.  The  most  barbar¬ 
ous  and  cruel  acts  were  continually  committed  by  the  savages, 
many  of  which  were  caused  by  the  intrigue  and  perfidy  of  the. 
British  Indian  agents  and  traders.  Fearful  that  the  Americans 
would  share  with  them  in  their  profitable  trade,  their  agents 
had,  for  a  long  time,  used  every  exertion  to  attach  the  tribes  to 
the  interests  of  the  British  government.  Presents  of  arms,  am¬ 
munition  and  clothing  were  profusely  made  to  the  warriors, 
their  women  and  children;  and  promises  were  made,  that  am¬ 
ple  aid  would  he  given  to  them,  to  regain  all  their  former  pos¬ 
sessions,  and  to  drive  the  Americans  beyond  the  mountains. 

The  effects  of  this  disgraceful  system  were  perceived  some 
time  previous  to,  but  were  not  fully  developed  uni il  after  the 
declaration  of  war.  In  consequence  of  the  surrender  of  General 
Hull,  the  garrison  at  Chicago  had  been  ordered  to  evacuate  the 
fort.  On  the  15th  of  August,  1812,  Captain  Heald,  with  the 
troops,  amounting  to  60  or  70  men,  the  women  and  children, 
marched  from  the  fort,  and  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance, 
when  they  were  attacked  by  a  large  body  of  savages.  A  de¬ 
termined  resistance  was  made,  but  it  proved  ineffectual  against 
the  superior  force  of  the  enemy.  At  length  Capt.  Heald,  finding 
his  number  of  soldiers  much  diminished,  consented  to  surrender, 
upon  the  promise  of  protection.  But  no  sooner  did  the  Ameri¬ 
cans  hiy  down  their  arms,  than  the  savages  commenced  an  in¬ 
discriminate  massacre.*  This  affair,  added  to  the  other  acts  of 
cruelty  which  had  been  committed  by  the  Indians,  induced  Gov. 
Edwards  to  prepare  an  expedition  against  them.  Accordingly, 
in  October,  1812,  after  having  dispatched  two  boats  up  the  Illi¬ 
nois,  with  ammunition  and  provisions,  the  governor,  with  Col. 
Russell  ,and  4  or  500  men,  married  for  Peoria,  which  was  the 
head  quarters  of  the  enemy.  About  the  same  time,  Genera! 


*  M’Affee’s  History  of  the  War  in  the  Western  country. 


56 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


Hopkins,  with  3  or  4000  Kentucky  volunteers,  left  Vincennes, 
in  order  to  form  a  junction  with  Gov.  Edwards.  Unfortunately, 
however,  the  general  was  deceived  by  his  guides,  who  led  him 
in  various  directions  through  the  grand  prairie,  where  his  army 
suffered  much  on  account  of  the  excessive  coldness  of  the  weather. 
The  Indians,  observing  their  approach  from  an  eminence,  tired 
the  prairie,  and  obliged  the  general  to  retreat  in  disorder  and  con¬ 
fusion.  Governor  Edw  ards  remained  for  some  time  near  Peoria, 
waiting  for  the  expected  reinforcements ;  but  being  disappointed 
in  this,  and  thinking  his  force  not  sufficiently  large  to  cope  with 
that  of  the  Indians,  he  was  obliged  to  abandon  his  favorite  pro¬ 
ject,  and  retire  to  winter  quarters ;  not,  how  ever,  without  having 
destroyed  all  the  Indian  villages  w  hich  lay  in  his  route.  Capt* 
Craig,  who  commanded  the  boats,  also  returned,  after  having 
reduced  to  ashes  the  village  of  Peoria.  It  is  much  to  be  regret¬ 
ted,  that  through  the  w  ant  of  concert  between  the  commanding 
officers  of  the  different  detachments,  the  principal  design  of  this 
campaign  was  completely  frustrated.  After  this,  the  seat  of 
military  operations  was  transferred  to  Michigan  and  Missouri ; 
and  during  the  remainder  of  the  war,  no  events  of  consequence 
transpired  in  Illinois. 

In  1818,  this  territory  was  formed  into  a  state,  and  admitted 
into  the  union  on  an  equal  footing  with  the  original  states.  This 
event  soon  produced  a  great  increase  of  its  population,  which 
in  1820  amounted  to  55,211,  including  blacks.  Since  that  time, 
however,  the  number  of  its  inhabitants  has  been  much  increased. 
At  present  the  state  of  Illinois  is  divided  into  26  counties,  as 
follows : — 


:es  of  Counties. 

No.  of  Inhabitants  in  1820- 

County  Seats. 

Alexander 

626 

America 

Bond 

2,931 

Greenville 

Clark 

931 

Aurora 

Crawford 

5,022 

Palestine 

Edwards 

3,444 

Albion 

*Fa>  ettc 

Vandalia 

Franklin 

1,763 

Frankfort 

Gallatin 

3,155 

SliavvneetowTn 

*  Greene 

Carrolton 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ILLINOIS. 


57 


^Hamilton 

Me  Leant  orough 

Jackson 

1,542 

Brownsville 

Jefferson 

691 

Mount  Vernon 

Johnson 

843 

Vienna 

^Lawrence 

Lawrenceville 

Madison 

13,550 

Edwardsvillc 

Monroe 

1,537 

Harrisonville 

^Montgomery 

Hamilton 

*Pike 

Colesgrove 

Pope 

2,610 

Golcorida 

Randolph 

3,492 

Kaskaskia 

^Sangamon 

Springfield 

St  Clair 

5,243 

Belleville 

Union 

2,236 

Jonesborough 

Washington 

1,517 

Covington 

Wayne 

1,114 

Fairfield 

White 

4,82S 

Carmi 

The  counties  marked  thus  have  been  erected  since  the 
census  of  1820. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  COUNTIES 


IN  THE 


ARRANGED  IN  ALPHABETICAL  ORDER. 


<*> 


Alexander  County. 

Alexander  county  comprises  tlie  peninsula  between  the  Ohio 
and  Mississippi.  It  is  bounded  north  by  Union  county,  east  by 
Johnson  county  and  the  Ohio  river,  south  by  the  Ohio  and  Mis¬ 
sissippi  rivers,  and  west  by  the  Mississippi.  It  is  24  miles  long, 
with  an  average  width  of  IS  miles  :  the  area  is  about  378  square 
miles.  This  county  is  generally  well  timbered,  and  its  soil  fer¬ 
tile.  It  is  watered  by  Cash  river,  a  small  stream  emptying  into 
the  Ohio  seven  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi. 
This  stream,  after  meandering  through  the  northern  part  of  the 
county,  approaches  to  within  one  mile  and  a  half  of  the  Missis¬ 
sippi,  ten  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  At  this  place  it  is 
contemplated  to  unite  the  two  streams  by  means  of  a  canal. 
Should  this  be  accomplished,  it  would  not  only  be  a  considerable 
saving  of  distance,  but  afford  the  means  of  avoiding  the  excessive 
current  at  the  junction  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers. 

This  county,  although  so  favourably  situated  at  the  junction 
of  two  large  and  important  rivers,  derives  from  this  circum¬ 
stance  little  or  no  advantage.  Here,  where  we  should  naturally 
cxj>ect  to  find  a  large  and  flourishing  town,  the  entrepot  of  pro¬ 
duce  and  merchandize  passing  to  and  from  the  north,  east,  south 
and  west,  we  find  little  else  than  the  remains  of  a  deserted  ware¬ 
house.  It  unfortunately  happens,  that  at.  and  for  a  considerable 
distance  above  the  junction  of  these  streams,  their  banks  are  low, 
and  subject  to  annual  inundations ;  and  such  is  the  height  to  which 
the  water  rises  on  them,  that  they  could  not,  without  much  ex¬ 
pense,  be  made  safe,  and  far  less  comfortable  places  of  residence. 

The  importance  of  a  good  town  site  immediately  at  the  junc¬ 
tion  of  these  two  streams,  has  for  many  years  excited  the  atten- 


60 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


tion  of  the  enterprising ;  and  accordingly,  various  plans  have 
been  suggested  to  accomplish  this  object  by  artificial  means. 
One  of  these  received  the  sanction  of  the  legislative  council  of 
the  territory  at  their  last  session  in  1818.  An  act  was  then 
passed,  incorporating  a  body  politic,  by  the  name  and  style  of 
the  president  and  directors  of  the  bank  of  Cairo,  upon  the  fol¬ 
lowing  terms  and  conditions,  viz  :  That  of  the  land  lying  at  the 
junction  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers,  south  of  Cash  river, 
there  shall  be  laid  off  no  less  than  2000  lots,  of  one  third  of  an  acre 
each.  These  lots  to  be  sold  under  the  direction  of  commissioners, 
in  the  manner  following:  Books  of  subscription  to  be  opened 
for  the  said  lots,  at  SI 50  each  :  a  deposit  of  S50  to  be  made  at 
the  time  of  subscribing,  and  the  residue  to  be  paid  in  three  and 
six  months.  Five  hundred  lots  being  thus  sold,  an  election  will 
be  held  for  president  and  directors  of  said  hank,  to  be  located 
at  Kaskaskia.  The  proceeds  of  the  sales  of  the  said  500  lots, 
and  of  the  remaining  ones,  form  the  capital  of  the  bank.  The 
charter  is  granted  for  the  term  of  SO  years,  and  without  a  bonus. 
One  third  of  the  proceeds  of  the  sale  of  the  lots  is  appropriated, 
and  to  be  expended,  under  the  direction  of  commissioners,  for 
the  embankment  of  the  town.  The  residue  of  S100,  entitles 
the  proprietor  to  one  share  in  the  said  bank.  The  title  of 
the  land  is  derived  immediately  from  the  United  States  ;  has 
been  paid  for  by  the  purchasers,  and  by  them  conveyed  to 
trustees  for  the  aforesaid  purposes.  This  law,  although  under 
existing  circumstances  it  is  perhaps  the  best  that  could  have 
been  enacted,  is  not  altogether  unexceptionable  ;  and  it  is  doubt¬ 
ful  whether  it  will  have  the  desired  effect.  Five  years  have  al¬ 
ready  elapsed  since  its  passage,  and  no  progress  has  as  yet  been 
made  either  in  the  sale  of  lots  or  the  erection  of  an  embankment. 
It  is,  however,  an  object  so  important,  that  it  will  no  doubt 
claim  the  attention  of  the  state,  when  she  shall  have  become 
more  populous  and  more  wealthy.  The  immense  trade  on  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi  will  then  warrant  the  expense,  and  insure 
an  ample  remuneration. 

The  county  of  Alexander  is  attached  to  the  fourth  judicial 
circuit.  It  contains  626  inhabitants  ;  sends  one  member  to  the 
house  of  representatives,  and  with  Union  county,  one  to  the  se¬ 
nate.  I  ts  seat  of  justice  is  America. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


61 


Bond  County. 

Bond  county  was  formerly  very  extensive,  being  upwards 
of  100  miles  in  length,  and  30  miles  in  breadth.  At  present 
it  is  reduced  to  an  area  of  468  square  miles.  Its  form  is 
that  of  a  parallelogram,  £6  miles  in  length,  and  18  in  breadth. 
It  is  hounded  north  by  the  county  of  Montgomery,  east  by  Fay¬ 
ette,  south  by  Washington,  and' west  by  Montgomery  and  Ma¬ 
dison. 

This  county  is  watered  by  the  Kaskaskia  river  and  its  tribu¬ 
taries.  Its  surface  is  generally  level,  or  gently  undulating. 
The  soil  is  fertile,  particularly  on  the  branches  of  Shoal  creek. 
The  prairies  in  this  county  are  numerous  and  extensive,  and  in 
area  exceed  the  timbered  land. 

Bond  county  contains  about  1400  inhabitants.  It  is  attached 
to  the  third  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of 
representatives,  and  with  Fayette  and  Montgomery,  one  to  the 
senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  Greenville. 

Clark  County. 

Clark  county  is  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  state,  and  is 
very  extensive.  It  extends  from  Lat.  39°  15'  to  41°  20'  N.  Its 
medium  width  is  50  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by  the  Illinois 
and  Kankakee  rivers,  east  by  the  state  of  Indiana,  south  by 
Crawford  county,  and  west  by  Fayette. 

This  county  being  so  extensive,  contains  almost  every  variety 
of  soil  and  surface.  The  eastern  part  is  traversed  by  the  Grand 
Prairie,  by  far  the  most  extensive  in  the  state.  It  stretches  it¬ 
self  from  about  the  base  line  near  the  third  principal  meridian, 
in  a  northeasterly  direction  between  the  Kaskaskia  and  Wabash 
rivers,  for  about  100  miles  ;  then  turning  to  the  northwest,  con¬ 
tinues  in  that  direction  between  the  head  waters  of  Vermilion  of 
the  Wabash,  Woman  river  ofTippecanoe,  and  the  Iroquois  river 
of  the  Kankakee,  to  near  the  junction  of  the  Illinois  and  Kan¬ 
kakee.  Its  average  width  is  from  20  to  30  miles.  Besides  this 
there  are  many  other,  though  less  extensive  prairies,  in  different 
parts  of  the  county.  The  banks  of  the  streams,  however,  are 
well  timbered. 


62 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


In  the  northern  and  northeastern  parts  of  this  county,  swamps 
and  low  wet  prairies  are  very  common  ;  some  of  which,  espe¬ 
cially  those  near  the  Illinois  and  Kankakee  rivers,  are  very  ex- 
tensive.  The  lands  on  the  head  waters  of  Vermilion  river  are 
said  to  be  higher  and  more  uneven  than  in  an)'  other  part  of  the 
state.  The  soil  is  sandy,  water  pure,  and  the  timber  of  a  good 
quality.  Coal  is  very  abundant.  There  are  also  numerous  and 
valuable  salt  springs,  which  are  already  extensively  worked. 
This  part  of  the  county  is  rapidly  increasing  in  population.  The 
southern  part  is  handsomely  interspersed  with  prairie  and  wood¬ 
land. 

Clark  county  is  watered  by  the  Illinois  and  Kankakee  rivers, 
and  several  of  their  branches — the  Kaskaskia,  Embarass,  Big 
and  Little  Vermilion,  and  Pickamink  rivers,  besides  a  great 
number  of  smaller  streams  The  div  iding  ridge  between  these 
streams,  which  runs  northwardly  and  eastwardly,  traverses  the 
upper  part  of  this  county  ;  and  from  a  height  of  land,  several 
of  the  sources  of  these  streams  can  be  seen  at  one  view.* 

The  northern  part  of  Clark  county  was,  during  the  late  war, 
the  theatre  of  important,  though'  unsuccessful  military  opera¬ 
tions.  General  Hopkins,  with  about  3000  men,  after  having 
destroyed  several  Indian  towns  on  the  Wabash,  took  up  his  line 
of  march  to  form  a  junction  with  Gov.  Edwards  at  Peoria,  in 
order  to  give  battle  to  a  large  body  of  Indians  who  were  there 
encamped,  and  who  were  very  troublesome  to  the  frontier  inha¬ 
bitants.  Unfortunately  for  the  general,  he  was  deceived  by  his 
guides,  who  led  him  in  various  directions  through  the  Grand 
Prairie.  The  Indians,  observing  their  approach  from  an  eini- 

*  As  so  little  is  as  yet  known  concerning  the  geography  of  this  county,  I  should  not  omit  the  fol¬ 
lowing  extract  from  the  report  of  the  commissioners  for  defining  the  boundary  line  between  the 
states  ot  Illinois  and  Indiana : 

“  Left  Vincennes  on  the  29th  May,  with  a  due  north  line,  which  last  leaves  the  northwest  shore  of 
the  Wabash, 46  miles  from  Vincennes ;  from  which  point  commenced  the  line  dividing  the  states  of 
Indiana  and  Illinois.  The  country  is  mostly  well  timbered,  and  soil  good  for  the  distance  of  45 
miles.  After  crossing  the  Vermilion  a  few  miles,  intersected  the  Grand  Prairie  the  first  25  miles  of 
which  is  good  dry  soil,  afterwards  it  becomes  either  broken  and  poor,  or  low  and  marshy.  Two 
branches  of  the  Kankakee  river  pass  through  the  Grand  Prairie.  At  123  miles  from  where  we  left  the 
Wabash,  we  came  to  the  main  Kankakee,  three  chains  wide,  and  navigable  tor  craft  ot  considerable 
burthen.  North  of  this  stream  lie  a  chain  of  almost  impassible  ponds,  which  lie  nearly  parallel 
with  the  river  for  the  distance  of  50  or  60  miles,  and  from  3  to  5  miles  wide.  From  these  ponds  to 
Lake  Michigan,  the  distance  of  36  miles,  the  country  is  most  generally  poor  sandy  ridges,  covered 
with  scrubby7  oak  timber  and  whortleberry  hushes,  or  low,  marsh  prairies.” 

Col.  Berry,  of  Vandaiia,  obligingly  furnished  me  with  a  copy  of  the  above  survey. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


6a 


nence,  fired  the  prairie,  and  obliged  the  army  to  retreat  in  dis¬ 
order  and  confusion.  On  account  of  this  unfortunate  circum¬ 
stance,  Gov.  Edwards  waited  a  considerable  time  near  Peoria, 
for  the  expected  reinforcement ;  but  being  disappointed  in  this, 
he  was  obliged  to  abandon  his  favorite  project,  and  retire  to 
winter  quarters. 

Clark  county  contains  931  inhabitants.  It  is  at: ached  to  the 
second  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  re¬ 
presentatives,  and  with  Crawford,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  county 
seat  is  Aurora . 

Crawford  County. 

Crawford  county  is  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  state, 
and  is  about  44  miles  long,  with  an  average  breadth  of  24  miles. 
It  is  bounded  north  by  Clark  county,  east  by  the  state  of  In¬ 
diana,  south  by  the  counties  of  Lawrence  and  YVayne,  and  west 
by  Fayette.  Its  area  is  1332  square  miles. 

This  county  is  watered  by  the  Embarass,  and  several  tribu¬ 
taries  of  the  Big  and  Little  Wabash  rivers.  It  contains  much 
prairie  land,  which  is  generally  low  and  level.  The  banks  of 
the  streams  are  heavily  timbered,  but  low  and  subject  to  inunda¬ 
tion  :  this  is  particularly  the  case  on  the  Embarass,  and  the 
branches  of  the  Little  Wabash.  It  is  not  unfrequently  the  case, 
that  the  bottoms  of  those  streams  which  are  more  than  2  miles 
in  width,  aie  covered  with  from  four  to  eight  feet  of  water,  so  as 
to  render  them  perfectly  impassible.  During  the  last  season,  a 
complete  water  communication  was  formed  from  the  Embarass 
to  Vincennes,  a  distance  of  about  seven  miles.  Travelling 
through  this  county  during  these  seasons,  is  attended  with  much 
difficulty  and  danger.  In  the  low  prairies  near  the  Wabash, 
there  are  quagmires  called  by  the  common  people  purgatory 
swamps ,  or  devils  holes ,  the  surface  of  which  appears  dry  and 
level,  but  is  only  supported  by  quicksand.  A  stick  can  be 
thrust  into  them  to  any  distance ;  and  when  the  prairies  are 
covered  with  water,  should  a  traveller  be  so  unfortunate  as  to 
sink,  it  is  generally  fatal  to  him.  Instances  of  this  kind  fre¬ 
quently  occur  ;  and  those  whom  necessity  compels  to  travel  at 
this  season,  unless  the  water  is  sufficiently  high  for  the  ferry 


64 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS* 


boats,  employ  some  person  who  is  well  acquainted  with  the  lo¬ 
cality  of  the  swamps,  to  pilot  them  through  the  prairie.  It  was 
on  account  of  the  difficulties  attendant  upon  travelling  from  the 
Wabash  to  the  Embarass,  that  the  latter  received  its  name  from 
the  early  French  settlers. 

Crawford  county  raises  a  considerable  quantity  of  surplus 
produce,  principally  corn  and  wheat,  which  is  sent  down  during 
the  high  water  to  New-Orleans.  Cotton  has  also  been  raised 
in  small  quantities  ;  and  from  the  success  which  has  attended 
its  cultivation,  it  is  thought  that  in  a  few  years  it  will  become 
an  article  of  export. 

This  county  contains  3022  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the 
second  judicial  circuit;  sends  two  members  to  the  house  of  re¬ 
presentatives,  and  with  Clark,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of 
justice  is  Palestine. 

Edwards  County. 

Edwards  county  is  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  state. 
It  is  bounded  north  by  Lawrence  county,  east  by  the  Wabash, 
south  by  the  Wabash  and  the  county  of  White,  and  west  by  the 
county  of  Wayne.  It  is  30  miles  long,  with  a  medium  width  of 
about  18  :  area,  522  square  miles. 

Edwards  county  is  watered  by  the  Little  Wabash,  Bonpas, 
and  several  smaller  streams.  It  contains  a  considerable  pro¬ 
portion  of  prairie  land,  lying  between  the  Big  and  Little  Wa¬ 
bash,  most  of  which  is  very  fertile.  The  prairies  are  generally 
small,  high,  undulating,  and  bounded  by  heavy  timber ;  thus 
presenting  every  inducement  to  the  agriculturalist-  It  is  on  one 
of  these  that  the  English  settlement,  probably  the  most  flourish¬ 
ing  in  the  state,  is  located.  The  banks  of  the  streams,  like  those 
of  Crawford,  are  heavily  timbered,  and  like  them  subject  to  in¬ 
undation. 

This  county  raises  a  surplus  quantity  of  produce,  the  principal 
part  of  which  is  shipped  down  the  Wabash.  Like  the  other 
counties  lying  on  this  stream,  it  possesses  the  advantage  of  a 
water  conveyance  to  the  different  parts  of  the  valley  of  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi.  The  Wabash,  for  several  months  in  the  year,  is  navi¬ 
gable  for  200  or  300  miles.  This,  together  with  the  Little  Wa- 


GENERAL  VIEW  OE  COUNTIES. 


65 


bash,  which  is  also  navigable  for  a  short  distance,  affords  the 
inhabitants  of  this  county  every  facility  for  transporting  their 
produce. 

Edwards  county,  previous  to  its  division,  contained  3444  in¬ 
habitants  ;  at  present  it  contains  about  2000.  it  is  attached  to 
the  second  judicial  circuit  5  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of 
representatives,  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is 
Albion, 

Fayette  County. 

Fayette  county  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  state,  and  was 
erected  in  1821.  It  comprises  all  that  tract  of  country  lying 
north  of  a  line,  beginning  at  the  southwest  corner  of  township 
No.  3,  north  of  range  No.  1  west,  extending  east  to  the  southeast 
corner  of  township  No.  three,  north  of  range  No.  six,  east  of 
the  3d  principal  meridian.  This  county,  if  continued  to  the  nor¬ 
thern  boundary  of  the  state  as  the  law  directs,  would  separate 
the  county  of  Pike,  which  was  erected  during  the  same  session 
of  the  legislature,  into  two  separate  districts.  Whether  this 
was  the  intention  of  the  framers  of  the  law,  I  am  unable  to  say  ; 
but  as  there  is  a  manifest  collision  in  the  boundaries  of  these 
two  counties,  I  have  left  Pike  in  the  form  which  was  given  to 
it,  and  have  only  continued  Fayette  to  the  Illinois  river. 

Fayette  county  is  bounded  north  by  the  Illinois  river,  east  by 
Clark,  Crawford  and  Wayne  counties,  south  by  Wayne,  Jeffer¬ 
son  and  Washington,  and  west  by  Bond,  Montgomery  and  San¬ 
gamon.  It  is  190  miles  long,  and  42  broad — its  area  is 
68,  ^44  square  miles. 

The  Kaskaskia  river  meanders  through  this  county  for  nearly 
100  miles,  receiving  numerous  tributaries  from  the  east  and 
west.  The  eastern  part  is  watered  by  the  principal  sources  of 
the  Sangamo,  Michillimackinac,  and  several  other  smaller 
streams,  O11  the  north,  it  is  supplied  by  the  waters  which  fall 
into  the  Illinois. 

The  great  predominance  of  prairie  land  is  a  serious  objection 
to  this  county.  The  grand  prairie  of  which  we  have  already- 
spoken,  stretches  itself  through  a  considerable  part  of  this  coun¬ 
ty,  and  is  little  else  than  a  dreary  uninhabited  waste.  Besides 

9 


66 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


this,  there  are  other  extensive  prairies  towards  its  northern  and 
southern  boundaries.  The  country  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
Sangamo,  and  some  of  the  branches  of  the  Kaskaskia,  is  very 
fertile,  and  calculated  to  support  a  dense  population.  It  is  high 
and  undulating,  and  beautifully  interspersed  with  small  prairies, 
containing  groves  of  the  finest  timber.  In  addition  to  this,  it  is 
healthy  and  well  watered.  In  the  vicinity  of  Vandalia,  the  soil 
is  clayey  ;  but  soon  changes  into  sand  and  loam,  which  produ¬ 
ces  heavy  crops  of  corn,  wheat,  &c.  although  very  little  surplus 
is  as  vet  raised. 

The  banks  of  the  Kaskaskia,  like  most  of  the  streams  in  this 
state,  are  generally  low,  and  subject  to  inundation.  A  rise  in  this 
stream  is  frequently  occasioned  by  slight  rains,  in  consequence 
of  its  numerous  tributaries.  This,  however,  is  only  of  short  con¬ 
tinuance.  Its  excess  of  water  is  soon  carried  away  by  the 
“  greedy”  river,  into  which  it  empties.  Since  the  location  of 
Yandalia  as  the  capital  of  the  state,  the  country  in  the  vicinity 
has  improved  rapidly.  The  market  which  is  now  created  at 
this  place,  has  given  a  stimulus  to  the  agriculturalist  which  was 
before  unknown  ;  and  the  increase  of  Yandalia,  which  is  now  a 
flourishing  town,  has  been  fully  equalled  by  that  of  the  surround¬ 
ing  country.  The  formation  of  agricultural  societies  h&s  alrea¬ 
dy  produced  a  most  salutary  effect,  and  will  no  doubt  contribute 
much  to  its  future  prosperity,  wealth  and  greatness.  Many  of 
the  citizens  of  Vandalia  are  turning  their  attention  both  to 
theoretical  and  practical  agriculture  ;  and  the  effects  of  this 
are  already  to  be  seen  in  the  fine  plantations  which  are  scatter¬ 
ed  through  the  vicinity.  To  a  country  so  new',  so  thinly  inhab¬ 
ited,  but  yet  possessing  such  vast  advantages,  this  is  a  subject 
of  the  deepest  interest. 

This  county  having  been  erected  since  the  census  of  1820, 
the  exact  number  of  its  inhabitants  is  not  known,  but  is  sup¬ 
posed  to  be  about  1500.  It  is  attached  to  the  3d  judicial  circuit 
— with  Montgomery,  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  repre¬ 
sentatives  ;  and  with  Bond  and  Montgomery,  one  to  the  senate. 
Its  seat  of  justice  is  Vandalia. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


67 


Franklin  County. 

Franklin  county  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state ; 
and  is  bounded  north  by  Jefferson  county,  east  by  White  and 
Gallatin,  soutli  by  Johnson  and  Union,  and  west  by  Jackson  and 
Randolph  counties.  Its  form  is  that  of  a  parallelogram,  36 
miles  in  length,  and  24  in  breadth  :  its  area  is  864  square  miles. 

This  county  is  watered  by  Big  Muddy  river,  and  the  branches 
of  Saline  creek.  It  is  well  timbered  :  the  prairies  are  generally 
small  and  fertile — sand  predominates  in  the  soil.  The  banks  of 
the  streams  are  low,  and  subject  to  annual  inundations. 

Franklin  is  similar  in  character  to  the  neighbouring  counties, 
and  cannot  be  said  to  possess  any  peculiar  advantages.  It 
will  probably  become  a  very  great  agricultural  county,  when¬ 
ever  the  demand  for  produce  shall  be  increased. 

This  county  contains  1763  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the 
fourth  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  repre¬ 
sentatives,  and  with  Johnson,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of 
justice  is  Frankfort. 

Gallatin  Countav 

Gallatin  county  is  situated  in  the  southeastern'part  of  the  state* 
Its  length  is  37  miles,  with  a  medium  breadth  of  about  25,  and  its 
area  is  864  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by  White  county, 
cast  by  the  states  of  Indiana  and  Kentucky,  south  by  Pope  coun¬ 
ty,  and  west  by  Franklin.  Situated  as  it  is  at  the  junction  of 
the  Wabash  and  Ohio  rivers,  its  eastern  boundary  is  washed  by 
those  streams.  The  interior  is  watered  by  Saline  creek  and  its 
tributaries. 

According  to  Mr.  Birkbeck,  sand  predominates  in  the  soil  in 
this  section  of  country.  The  basis  rock  is  sand  stone,  lying,  he 
thinks,  on  clay  slate.  The  bed  of  t lie  Ohio  at  Shawneetown  is 
sand  stone.  This  formation  extends  a  considerable  distance 
above  and  below  this  place,  and  forms  the  ledge,  known  by  the 
name  of  the  battery  rocks.  It  also  frequently  appears  on  the 
Kittle  Wabash  and  Skillet  fork.  Limestone  has  not  as  yet  been 
discovered  in  this  district.*  Flour  spar  and  Galena  are  abund¬ 
ant  near  Shawneetown. f 

k  See  Birkbeck’s  notes  on  a  journey  in  America. 

t  For  a  more  particular  description,  see  Shazvneetcnm. 


68 


GAZETTEER  OP  ILLINOIS. 


This  county  contains  a  great  proportion  of  timbered  land,  which 
is  particularly  valuable  on  account  of  its  contiguity  to  the  salt 
springs,  which  must  be  an  inexhaustible  source  ot  wealth,  lhe 
valuable  saline,  commonly  known  by  the  name  of  the  Ohio  Sa¬ 
line,  is  situated  on  Saline  creek,  about  10  or  11  miles  above  its 
junction  with  the  Ohio.  The  Indians,  who  formerly  possessed 
it,  valued  it  highly,  and  called  it  the  Great  Suit  Spring  ;  and  it 
appears  probable,  from  a  variety  of  circumstances,  that  they  * 
have  long  been  acquainted  with  the  method  ot  making  salt. — - 
Large  fragments  of  earthenware  are  continually  found  near  the 
works,  both  on  and  under  the  surface  of  the  earth.  They  have 
the  impression  of  basket  oi*  wicker  work,  similar  to  those  found 
on  the  Merrimack  and  Missouri  rivers.  From  this  circum¬ 
stance,  Mr.  Bradbury  infers,  that  the  Indians  practised  the  art 
of  evaporating  the  brine  to  make  salt,  long  before  the  discovery 
of  America.  In  a  treaty  between  the  United  States,  and  the 
Delaware,  Shawanoe,  Pottawatomie,  Eel  River,  \\  eea,  Kicka- 
poo  and  Piankasaw  tribes,  at  Fort  Wayne,  on  the  7th  of  June, 
1803,  this  saline  was  ceded  to  the  United  States,  with  a  quanti¬ 
ty  of  land,  not  exceeding  four  miles,  surrounding  it  :  Iti  consid¬ 
eration  of  which,  the  United  States  engaged  to  deliver  yearly 
and  every  year  to  the  said  Indians,  a  quantity  of  salt,  not  ex¬ 
ceeding  150  bushels,  to  be  divided  among  the  several  tribes  in 
such  manner  as  the  general  council  of  chiefs  may  determine. — - 
For  a  number  of  years  it  w  as  possessed  by  the  United  States, 
with  a  reservation  of  1 6 1  seel  ions  of  land  in  the  vicinity,  the 
whole  of  which  were  ceded  in  1818  to  the  state  of  Illinois,  by 
whom  it  was  leased  to  different  individuals  for  about  SI 0,000 
per  annum.  The  works  are  situated  on  section  20,  township  9, 
south  range  8,  east  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  Saline 
creek  is  navigable  to  the  works,  and  the  surplus  salt  is  thus  ship¬ 
ped  to  soul  hern  markets. 

In  order  to  guard  against  the  improper  conduct  of  the  lessees 
and  to  prevent  the  injury  or  destruction  of  the  works,  the  legis¬ 
lature  at  their  last  session  passed  an  act  authorising  the  appoint* 
mem  of  a  superintendent.  The  act  provides  that  he  shall  be 
elected  by  the  general  assembly,  and  shall  receive  a  salary  of 
$800  per  annum.  That  ho  shall  reside  on  the  premises,  and 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


69 


shall  give  bonds  to  the  governor  and  his  successors  in  office,  in 
the  sum  of  £8000,  with  security,  approved  by  him,  for  the  faith¬ 
ful  performance  of  his  duty.  The  superintendent  shall  continue  in 
office  till  the  expiration  of  the  present  leases,  it  is  made  his  dir 
ty  to  take  possession  of  any  establishment  at  t lie  said  saline, 
where  the  lessee  or  lessees  thereof  have  v  iolated  his  or  their  lease, 
or  leases  by  failing  to  comply  with  any  of  its  covenants  or  condi¬ 
tions.  And  when  any  lease  of  any  establishment  at  said  saline, 
now  made,  or  that  may  hereafter  be  made,  shall  be  violated  by 
the  lessee  or  lessees,  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  said  superintend¬ 
ent  to  enter  upon  and  take  possession  of  the  premises  ;  which, 
after  due  notice  thereof  being  given,  shall  be  leased  to  the  high¬ 
est  bidder.  The  superintendent  is  also  invested  with  the  povv- 
er  of  sueing  and  distraining  for  rents. 

Gallatin  county  contains  3155  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to 
the  4th  judicial  circuit ;  sends  two  members  to  the  house  of  re¬ 
presentatives,  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is 
Shawneetown. 

Greene  County. 

Greene  county  is  situated  on  the  Illinois  river,  near  the  western 
part  of  the  state,  and  was  erected  from  Madison  county  in  1821. 
Its  boundaries  are  as  follows,  to  wit :  Beginning  at  the  south¬ 
east  corner  of  township  No.  7  north,  in  range  No.  10,  west  of 
the  third  principal  meridian  ;  thence  north  between  ranges  9 
and  10,  to  the  northeast  corner  of  township  12  north  :  thence 
west  along  the  line  between  townships  12  and  13,  to  the  middle 
of  the  Illinois  river;  thence  down  said  river  to  its  junction  with 
the  Mississippi  river;  thence  down  the  Mississippi  river  to  a 
point  parallel  with  the  southwest  corner  of  township  No  6  north 
in  range  10  west ;  thence  north  with  the  range  line  between  10 
and  11,  to  the  township  line  between  6  and  7  ;  thence  east  with 
the  said  township  line,  to  the  place  of  beginning. 

The  tract  of  country  within  the  following  boundaries  is  at" 
tachcd  to  Greene,  until  otherwise  disposed  of  by  the  legislature, 
viz  :  Beginning  at  the  southwest  corner  of  township  7,  north  of 
range  nine,  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian  ;  thence  eas^ 
to  the  southeast  corner  of  township  7  north,  in  range  6  west ; 


70 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


thence  north  to  the  northeast  corner  of  township  12  north  ; 
thence  west  to  the  northwest  corner  of  township  12,  in  range  7, 
west ;  thence  along  the  prairie  between  the  waters  of  Sangamo 
and  Mauvaise  terre,  to  the  head  of  Balance  creek  ;  thence  down 
said  creek  to  the  Illinois  river  ;  thence  down  said  river  to  the 
northwest  corner  of  Greene  county. 

The  county  of  Greene  is  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  parallelo¬ 
gram.  Its  length  is  40  miles — average  breadth  22  ;  its  area  is 
about  880  square  miles.  The  tract  attached  to  it  is  nearly  dou¬ 
ble  this  size. 

Greene  county  is  watered  by  the  Ma  qua-pin,  (Magopin)  and 
Otter  creeks,  and  several  other  small  streams  emptying  into  the 
Illinois  and  Mississippi.  The  attached  portion  is  supplied  by 
Balance  creek,  the  Mauvaise  terre,  and  branches  of  the  Sanga¬ 
mo  and  Ma-qua-pin. 

This  county,  (I  mean  also  the  tract  attached  to  it)  forms  a 
part  of  the  finest  district  of  country  in  the  state  ;  and  all  who 
have  seen  it,  agree  in  the  opinion  that  it  is  without  a  parallel. — 
Fine  water  courses,  a  salubrious  climate,  a  fertile  soil,  and  con¬ 
tiguity  to  navigable  streams,  are  some  of  the  many  advantages 
which  it  possesses.  The  face  of  the  country  is  in  general  level, 
or  gently  undulating.  With  the  exception  of  those  under  the 
bluffs  of  the  Illinois,  there  are  few  of  those  stagnant  ponds  which 
in  some  parts  of  the  state  are  such  fruitful  sources  of  disease. 

Although  this  county  contains  a  large  proportion  of 
timbered  land,  it  is  diversified  with  prairies,  some  of  which 
are  beautiful  beyond  description.  In  many  of  these  are 
large  groves  of  timber,  which  form  the  most  pleasant  as  well  as 
advantageous  situations  for  settlers.  The  most  celebrated  of 
these  is  Diamond  Grove,  situated  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
Mauvaise  terre,  about  twenty  miles  from  the  Illinois.  In  the 
centre  of  a  beautiful  prairie  is  a  large  grove  of  timber,  in  the 
form  of  a  diamond,  somewhat  elevated  above  the  surrounding 
country.  The  skirts  of  this  grove  are  already  thickly  settled 
by  an  industrious  and  enterprising  population,  principally  from 
the  north  and  east.  The  plantations  embrace  a  portion  of  wood 
land  and  prairie.  Besides  this,  there  are  several  small  prairies, 
which  arc  in  like  manner  settling  very  rapidly. 

The  banks  of  the  Mississippi  in  the  southcrly  part  of  this  county 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES, 


71 


are  generally  composed  of  perpendicular  cliffs,  varying  in  height 
from  80  to  150  feet,  consisting  of  horizontal  strata  of*  sand  stone? 
limestone,  slate  and  coal — Although  the  latter  does  not  appear ob 
the  face  of  the  cliffs,  it  is  found  in  great  abundance  a  short  distance 
from  it,  near  Alton.  I  would  remark  that  coal  is  also  found  simi¬ 
larly  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Kirkapno  creek,  a  small  stream 
emptying  into  the  Illinois  near  Fort  Clark.  In  many  places  the 
upper  strata  overhang,  and  have  all  the  terrific  appearance  of 
the  table  rock  at  Niagara.  From  the  number  of  excavations  on 
the  face  of  the  bluff,  it  appeal  s  to  have  been  at  some  former  pe¬ 
riod  laved  by  an  immense  body  of  water.  This  bluff  continues 
along  the  Mississippi  and  Illinois  to  the  northern  part  of  the  coun¬ 
ty,  sometimes,  however,  receding  several  miles  east,  leaving  a 
low  but  fertile  alluvion,  which  in  general  is  heavily  timbered. 
At  the  mouth  of  the  Mauvaise  ter  re  creek,  there  is  a  beautiful 
high  prairie,  which  is  a  fine  town  site. 

In  addition  to  these,  Greene  county  possesses  the  advantage 
of  having  good  town  sites  near  the  confluence  of  the  Illinois  and 
Mississippi,  from  which  she  will  be  enabled  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year  to  export  her  produce,  and  to  obtain  the  necessaries  and 
luxuries  of  life. 

As  this  county  has  been  erected  since  the  census  of  1820, 
its  population  is  not  known.  It  must  however  be  near  2000.  It 
is  attached  to  the  first  judicial  circuit  ;  sends  one  member  to  the 
house  of  representatives,  and  with  Pike,  one  to  the  senate.  Its 
seat  of  justice  is  Carrolton. 

Hamilton  County. 

Hamilton  county  was  erected  from  White  in  1821,  and  is  situ¬ 
ated  in  the  southeastern  part  of  the  state.  It  is  bounded  north 
by  Wayne  county,  east  by  White,  south  by  Gallatin,  and  west 
by  Franklin  and  Jefferson.  Its  form  is  that  of  a  parallelogram,  21 
miles  in  length,  and  18  in  breadth  ;  its  area  is  378  square  miles* 

This  county  is  watered  by  branches  of  Saline  creek  and  Lit¬ 
tle  Wabash  river,  and  contains  about  an  equal  proportion  of 
prairie  and  timbered  land.  It  is  attached  to  the  second  judicial 
circuit,  and  with  Jefferson,  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  re¬ 
presentatives,  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  population  is  about 
2000-  Seat  of  justice  McLcanborough. 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


r\ 

72 

Jackson  County. 

Jackson  comity  is  situated  in  the  southeastern  section  of  the 
state.  It  is  bounded  north  by  Randolph  county,  east  by  Franklin, 
south  by  Union,  and  west  by  Randolph  and  the  Mississippi  riv¬ 
er.  Its  length  is  30  miles,  with  a  medium  width  of  24  ;  its  area 
is  720  square  miles. 

This  county  is  watered  by  Muddy  river  and  its  tributaries. — 
It  is  generally  timbered  land,  although  it  contains  many  prai¬ 
ries.  That  part  of  the  Mississippi  which  forms  its  western 
boundary,  is,  with  few  exceptions,  high  and  rocky.  Six  or  sev¬ 
en  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Muddy  river,  a  chain  of  rocks  ex¬ 
tend  across  the  Mississippi,  and  forms  its  bed  ;  and  from  the 
height  of  the  banks  on  each  side,  and  the  immense  masses  of 
rock  which  are  still  to  be  seen  rising  from  them,  we  are  irresis¬ 
tibly  led  to  conclude,  that  here  was  once  a  complete  barrier  to 
the  passage  of  the  water  from  the  north.  But  as  it  is  not  our 
present  intention  to  indulge  in  geological  speculations,  we  shall 
only  speak  of  things  as  they  are.  The  Grand  Tower,  which  is  a 
perpendicular  rock  rising  from  the  river  at  this  place,  is  at  pres¬ 
ent  about  70  or  80  feet  in  height,  but  has  the  appearance  of  having 
been  worn  down.  It  consists  of  horizontal  strata  of  sand  stone, 
and  corresponds  in  its  appearance  and  its  stratifications,  with  the 
banks  of  the  Mississippi.  The  high  bank  which  commences  here, 
continues  with  little  interruption  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kaskaskia 
river  ;  sometimes  presenting  a  bare  perpendicular  rock,  with 
those  numerous  excavations  and  fanciful  appearances,  to  which 
the  boatmen  have  given  the  names  of  the  6  Devil’s  tea  table ,5 
*  bake  oven’  ‘  back  bone,*  $*c.  ;  at  others,  gently  or  abruptly  slop¬ 
ing,  covered  with  a  light  soil,  and  a  scanty  growth  of  cedars. 

Muddy  river,  which  meanders  through  the  interior  of  this 
county,  is  navigable  for  a  considerable  distance,  and  affords  to 
the  inhabitants  every  facility  for  exporting  their  surplus  produce. 
On  this  stream,  near  Brownsville,  there  is  a  saline,  which  has 
been  leased  for  10  years.  It  is  not  so  extensive  as  the  Ohio  Sa¬ 
line,  but  is  sufficiently  so  to  supply  this  and  the  adjoining  coun¬ 
ties.  A  large  body  of  good  stone  coal  is  also  said  to  exist  about 
25  miles  up  this  stream,  from  which  the  smith’s  in  the  vicinity 
receive  their  supplies,  and  some  is  even  taken  to  New-Orleans, 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


73 

Native  copper,  similar  to  that  found  on  the  Illinois  near  Peoria, 
has  also  been  found  on  the  banks  of  Muddy  river.  It  appears, 
however,  merely  in  the  form  of  detached  masses  lying  on  the 
surface,  and  affords  no  evidence  of  the  existence  of  that 
mineral  in  any  quantity  in  the  vicinity.  On  the  margin  of  this 
stream  are  several  beautiful  prairies,  which  are  very  fertile  and 
quite  thickly  settled. 

Jackson  county  contains  1542  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to 
the  third  judicial  circuit  ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  re¬ 
presentatives,  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is 
Brownsville . 


Jefferson  County. 


Jefferson  county  is  situated  in  the  central  part  of  the  state.  It, 
is  bounded  north  by  Fayette  county,  east  by  Wayne  and  Ham¬ 
ilton,  south  by  Franklin,  and  west  by  Washington  and  Ran¬ 
dolph.  Its  form  is  that  of  a  parallelogram,  36  miles  in  length, 
and  24  in  breadth  ;  its  area  is  864  square  miles,  being  of  the 
same  size  with  Franklin. 

Jefferson  county  is  watered  by  several  branches  of  the  Muddy, 
Little  Wabash  and  Kaskaskia  rivers.  The  northern  partis  tra¬ 
versed  by  the  grand  prairie  ;  the  southern  part  contains  a  con  U 
derable  portion  of  timbered  land.  It  is,  however,  as  yet  but  thin¬ 
ly  populated  ;  and  although  the  soil  in  many  places  is  fertile, 
still  this  county  possesses  no  peculiar  advantages. 

It  contains  only  691  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the  third 
judicial  circuit  ;  with  Hamilton,  sends  one  member  to  the  house 
of  representatives,  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is 
Mount  Vernon, 


Johnson  County. 

Johnson  county  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state. 
It  is  hounded  north  by  Franklin  county,  east  by  Pope,  south  by 
the  Ohio  river,  and  west  by  Union  and  Alexander  counties,  its 
length  is  30  miles  ;  breadth  18  :  its  area  is  486  square  miles. 

The  interior  of  this  county  is  watered  by  the  heads  of  Cash 
river  and  Rig-hay  creek.  The  southern  boundary  is  washed 

by  the  Ohio,  the  banks  of  which  are  generally  fertile.  Oeca- 

10 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


74 

sionally  they  consist  of  ledges  of  perpendicular  rocks,  which  by 
extending  across  the  river,  form  what  are  called  the  Little  and 
Grand  Chain,  so  much  dreaded  by  those  who  navigate  this 
river.  Near  these,  however,  are  pilots,  who  are  acquainted 
with  the  channel,  and  who  generally  bring  boats  through  in 
safety.  In  the  southeastern  part  of  this  county  are  the  remains 
of  Fort  Massac  and  W  ilkinsonville,  of  w  hich  particular  descrip¬ 
tions  will  be  given  hereafter. 

This  county  has  a  large  proportion  of  level  land,  which  is 
generally  well  wooded.  Its  soil  is  sandy.  As  yet  it  is  but  thinly 
populated,  owing  perhaps  to  the  unhealthiness  occasioned  by 
the  overflowing  of  the  Obit),  and  the  marshes  which  abound  near 
the  southern  boundary.  When  these  shall  be  drained,  and  the 
inhabitants  turn  their  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  tobacco, 
cotton,  and  the  grape,  all  of  which  would  yield  profitable  crops, 
it  will  no  doubt  become  flourishing  and  wealthy. 

Johnson  county  contains  843  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to 
the  second  judicial  circuit;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of 
representatives,  and  with  Franklin,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat 
of  justice  is  Vienna . 

Lawrence  County. 

Lawrence  county ,  erected  in  1821,  from  apart  of  Edwards 
and  Crawford,  is  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  state.  It  is 
bounded  north  by  Crawford  county,  east  by  the  Wabash  river, 
south  by  Edwards  county,  and  west  by  Wayne  and  Crawford. 
It  is  about  40  miles  in  length,  with  a  medium  w  idth  of  19  miles. 
Its  area  is  about  700  square  miles. 

This  county  is  watered  by  the  Embarrass,  Little  Wabash, 
Fox  rivers,  and  several  other  smaller  streams  ;  the  banks  of  all 
which  are  low,  and  subject  to  inundations.  A  great  proportion 
of  the  land  in  the  interior,  and  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
streams,  is  prairie,  most  of  which  is  very  fertile.  What  has 
been  said  of  the  purgatory  swamps,  and  the  excessive  inunda¬ 
tions  of  the  streams,  under  the  description  of  Crawford  county, 
appl  ics  also  to  this. 

As  Lawrence  county  has  been  erected  since  the  census  of 
1820,  its  present  population  is  not  known  ;  judging,  however. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


T5 


from  the  previous  population  of  Edwards  and  Crawford,  it  must 
contain  about  1500  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the  second 
judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  representa¬ 
tives,  and  with  Wayne,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is 
Lawrencevillc. 


Madison  County. 

Madison  county  is  situated  in  the  western  part  of  the  state,  and 
is  very  extensive.  It  is  36  miles  in  length,  and  £4  in  breadth  : 
its  area  is  756  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by  Greene 
and  Montgomery  counties,  east  by  Bond,  south  by  Washington 
and  St.  Clair,  and  west  by  the  Mississippi  river  and  a  part  of 
Greene  county. 

This  county,  both  on  account  of  its  soil  and  situation,  pos¬ 
sesses  uncommon  advantages.  On  the  west  it  is  washed  by  the 
Mississippi,  above  and  below  the  junction  of  the  Missouri. 
South  of  Alton  the  bank  is  low,  being  a  continuation  of  the 
American  bottom,  which  is  upwards  of  one  hundred  miles  in  ex¬ 
tent.  North  of  Alton  the  bank  is  generally  high,  and  affords 
several  good  town  sites.  The  importance  of  these  situations, 
so  near  the  junctions  of  the  Missouri  and  Illinois  with  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  can  at  this  time  scarcely  be  realized.  A  mere  glance 
at  the  map  must  convince  every  person  of  the  least  observation, 
that  few  districts  of  country  possess  greater  advantages  than 
this.  Looking  forward  to  the  time  when  the  Illinois  shall  be 
united  with  Lake  Michigan,  and  by  this  means  a  complete  com¬ 
munication  formed  between  the  Mississippi  river  and  New-York, 
we  may  observe  a  continuation  of  lively  commercial  towns  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  to  that  of  the  Illinois.  Here  will  be 
stored  the  produce  of  the  fertile  interior  of  the  state  :  here  will 
be  deposited  for  exchange  or  transportation,  the  furs  and  mi¬ 
nerals  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  which  will  then  he  ship¬ 
ped  at  all  seasons  to  New-York  :  here  will  be  the  point  from 
which  the  whole  northwestern  part  of  (he  state  will  receive  their 
supplies.  These  are  not  air-built  castles,  or  phantoms  of  the 
imagination.  No  :  it  would  be  an  anomaly  in  the  history  of  the 
world,  if  a  section  of  country,  upon  which  the  productions  of 
every  climate  and  soil,  from  the  north  to  the  south,  and  from  the 


76 


GAZETTEER  of  ILLINOIS. 


east  to  tlie  west,  rould  be  thrown,  and  front  which  valuable  pro¬ 
ductions  could  be  received  in  return  ;  I  say,  it  would  be  an  ano¬ 
maly,  if  such  a  section  of  country  should  not  rise  to  wealth  and 
importance.  It  must  necessarily  be  the  place  where  these  differ¬ 
ent  productions  will  be  exchanged.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that 
the  American  bottom,  which  is  a  low  alluvion,  subject  to  inun¬ 
dation,  extends  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kaskaskia  to  Alton,  a  few 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  does  not  affor  d  a 
single  site  for  a  healthy  town.  Above  this,  the  bank  is  high, 
watered  by  fine  springs  ;  contains  building  stone  and  coal  of 
the  best  quality,  and  in  fact  every  advantage  for  large  and 
healthy  commercial  towns.  The  interior  of  Madison  county  is 
generally  high  and  undulating,  though  not  hilly.  Outlie  banks 
of  the  Mississippi  below  Alton,  it  is  low  and  wet,  and  in  many 
places  very  marshy.  No  soil,  howe\er,  can  exceed  it  in  fer¬ 
tility.  Upon  rising  the  bluff  which  bounds  this  bottom  upon  the 
east,  there  is  a  district  of  country  which  continues  east  to  the 
Kaskaskia  river,  and  is  called  the  table  land.  This  is  also  very 
fertile,  and  is  by  many  considered  the  most  desirable  tract  in 
the  state.  The  banks  of  the  streams  which  pass  through  the 
interior  of  this  county,  are  generally  well  wooded,  leaving  be¬ 
tween  them  prairies  of  considerable  size,  but  very  fertile,  and 
very  advantageously  situated  for  settlement.  Some  of  these 
have  already  a  large  population.  The  following  statement, 
published  by  order  of  the  agricultural  society  of  the  state  of  Illi¬ 
nois,  will  convey  an  idea  of  the  soil  ;  and  this  is  the  more  in¬ 
teresting,  as  it  is  the  only  one  of  this  kind  ever  published  in  the 
state. 

“  Mr.  Curtis  Blakeman,  of  Silver  creek,  in  this  county,  ga- 
(i  thered  from  9  acres  3  quarters  and  6  roods,  1600  bushels  of 
“  ears  of  corn,  of  a  very  superior  quality.  One  bushel  and  a 
“  half  of  ears,  (consisting  of  134  ears,)  just  as  they  run  from 
4‘  the  crib,  shelled,  made  one  bushel  and  four  quarts  of  shelled 
“  corn.  The  seed  of  this  corn  was  brought  from  Kentucky. 
*  It  is  quite  white  and  hard  ;  the  grains  a  little  indented  on  the 
“  outside  of  the  ear  ;  the  cob  very  small  in  proportion  to  the  ear. 

The  mode  of  cultivation  was  quite  common.  It  was  planted 
4t  late  in  May,  in  hills  about  four  feet  apart,  and  was  three  times 

ploughed. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OP  COUNTIES. 


77 


tS  From  the  above  it  appears,  that  there  was  raised  from  some- 
wha  «ess  than  10  acres,  the  prodigious  quantity  of  1350  bu- 
sliels  of  shelled  corn,  making  an  average  of  above  135  bushels 
66  •  er  acre-  It  is  understood  that  the  field  was  newly  turned  up 
46  prairie,  this  being  the  first  year’s  cultivation  ” 

Although  corn  is  as  yet  the  staple  of  this  county,  wheat  and 
all  other  grains  flourish  here,  and  yield  abundant  crops. 

Madison  county,  at  the  time  of  taking  the  last  census,  con¬ 
tained  13,550  inhabitants;  hut  since  this  it  has  been  so  subdi¬ 
vided,  that  it  is  impossible  to  form  any  estimate  of  its  present 
population  It  is  attached  to  the  first  judicial  circuit  ;  sends 
th  ree  members  to  the  house  of  representatives,  and  one  to  the 
senate,  its  seat  of  justice  is  Edwardsville. 

Monuoe  County. 

Monroe  county  is  situated  in  the  western  part  of  the  state,  and 
is  26  miles  in  length,  and  16  in  breadth  :  its  area  is  286  square 
miles.  It  is  hounded  north  by  St.  Clair  county,  east  by  St. 
Clair  and  Randolph,  south  by  Randolph,  and  west  by  the  Mis- 
sissi  ppi. 

The  interior  of  this  county  is  watered  by  a  few  small  branches 
of  Horse,  Prairie  du  long,  and  L  Eagle  creeks.  On  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi  there  is  a  timbered  alluvion  ;  east  of  this  the  county  is 
generally  broken  and  hilly.  It  is,  however,  a  rich  county,  and 
exports  a  considerable  quantity  of  produce. 

Monroe  contains  1537  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the  third 
judicial  circuit  ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  representa¬ 
tives,  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  Harrisonville. 

Montgomery  County. 

Montgomery  county  was  erected  from  Bond  in  1821.  Its  form 
is  nearly  that  of  a  parallelogram,  35  miles  in  length,  and  24  in 
breadth  :  its  area  is  828  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by 
Sangamon  county,  east  by  Fayette,  south  by  Bond  and  Madi¬ 
son,  and  west  by  Greene. 

This  county  is  watered  by  some  of  the  tributaries  of  the  San- 
gamo  and  the  Kaskaskia  rivers.  It  contains  a  considerable 
proportion  of  prairie  land,  which  is  generally  high  and  undu¬ 
lating. 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


78 

Montgomery  contains  about  1500  inhabitants.  It  is  attached 
to  the  first  judicial  circuit ;  with  Fayette,  sends  one  member  to 
the  house  of  representatives,  and  with  Bond  and  Fayette,  one 
to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  Hamilton . 

Pike  County. 

Pike  county  is  situated  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the  state, 
and  was  erected  from  Madison  and  other  counties  in  1821.  Its 
boundaries,  as  defined  by  the  act  of  the  legislature,  are  as  fol¬ 
lows,  viz  :  Beginning  at  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois  river,  and 
running  thence  up  the  middle  of  said  river  to  the  fork  of  the 
same  ;  thence  up  the  south  fork  of  said  river,  until  it  strikes  the 
state  line  of  Indiana  ;  thence  north  with  said  line  to  the  north 
boundary  line  of  the  state ;  thence  west  with  said  line  to  the 
western  boundary  line  of  the  state  ;  and  thence  with  said  line 
to  the  place  of  beginning.  By  this  description,  it  will  be  ob¬ 
served  that  this  county  includes  all  the  northern  and  northwest¬ 
ern  part  of  the  state  ;  of  course  it  embraces  almost  every  variety 
of  soil  and  surface. 

The  southern  part  of  this  county  includes  a  part  of  the  lands 
appropriated  by  congress  for  the  payment  of  military  bounties. 
The  lands  which  constitute  the  Illinois  military  tract,  are  in¬ 
cluded  within  the  peninsula  of  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi 
rivers,  and  extend  on  the  meridian  line  passing  through  the 
mouth  of  the  Illinois,  one  hundred  and  sixtv-two  miles  north. 
The  breadth  of  the  tract  varies,  its  form  being  that  of  an  irreg¬ 
ular  triangle. 

The  quality  of  the  soil  of  this  tract  has  been  variously  de¬ 
scribed.  Very  little,  however,  is  as  yet  known  with  regard  to 
the  interior.  Those  who  have  explored  the  country,  have  ge¬ 
nerally  confined  their  excursions  to  the  banks  of  the  streams 
which  they  have  ascended.  Some,  however,  have  gone  into  the 
interior,  and  have  returned  pleased  with  its  appearance,  both  as 
it  respects  soil  and  situation.  No  account  of  this  interesting 
tract  has  as  yet  been  published,  except  the  notes  of  the  survey¬ 
ors,  drawn  up  in  a  compendious  form  by  N.  Van  Zant,  Esq. 
who  has  also  accompanied  them  with  a  map.  This  book  is  va¬ 
luable,  on  account  of  the  minute  and  detailed  description  which 
it  contains  of  the  quality  of  each  individual  section  of  land. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


79 


The  Illinois  bounty  tract,  altogether,  may  be  called  a  valuable 
one  ;  but  there  are,  however,  objections  to  it,  which  shall  be 
briefly  noticed.  In  the  lower  part,  south  of  the  base  line,  there 
is  a  great  body  of  land  subject  to  inundation  ;  so  much  so,  that 
in  some  seasons  you  can  sail  over  thousands  of  acres  of  timbered 
alluvion.  The  soil  of  this  is  generally  fertile  ;  but  no  depend- 
ance  can  be  placed  upon  the  crops,  as  they  are  continually  ex¬ 
posed  to  the  ravages  of  the  water.  This  circumstance  is  also  a 
fruitful  source  of  disease;  for,  as  is  common  in  the  western 
country,  the  land  under  the  bluffs  is  much  lower  than  that  di¬ 
rect!)  on  the  river — hence  there  is  here  formed  a  chain  of  ponds, 
which  become  stagnant,  and  send  forth  their  effluvia.  These 
causes  will  naturally  affect  the  settlement  of  this  portion  of  the 
military  tract ;  for  it  can  hardly  be  supposed,  that  while  there 
is  such  an  immense  quantity  of  fertile  and  well  situated  public 
land  in  market,  that  emigrants  will  settle  on  such  unfavourable 
spots  as  these.  There  is  comparatively  but  a  small  proportion 
of  the  land  below  the  township  line  2,  south  of  the  base  line,  fa¬ 
vourable  for  settlement ;  that  on  banks  of  rivers  being  subject 
to  inundation,  and  that  in  the  interior  being  very  hilly  and 
broken. 

As  you  approach  the  base  line,  the  country  begins  to  improve  ; 
the  river  banks  becoming  gradually  more  elevated,  and  the  in¬ 
terior  levelled  down  to  beautiful  prairies,  interspersed  with 
groves  and  strips  of  timber.  You  now  occasionally  meet  with 
a  landing  place,  which  below  is  rarely  to  be  found.  The  situa¬ 
tions  most  favorable  for  settlement,  are  on  Otter  creek,  Chenail- 
ecarte,  Crooked  creek,  and  Spoon  river,  and  in  the  vicinity  of 
Fort  Clark  and  Fort  Edwards.  This  section  of  the  tract  is  well 
watered,  and  contains  a  handsome  proportion  of  prairie  and 
wood  land. 

The  northern  part  of  the  tract  is  not  so  favorable  for  settle 
ment.  The  prairies  become  very  extensive,  and  arc  badly  wa¬ 
tered.  In  fact,  this  last  is  an  objection  to  the  whole  tract.  In 
dry  seasons  it  is  not  unusual  to  walk  through  the  beds  of  the 
largest  streams  without  finding  a  drop  of  water.  It  is  not  sur¬ 
prising  that  a  country  so  far  distant  from  the  sea,  ami  drained 
by  such  large  rivers,  which  have  a  course  of  several  thousand 
miles  before  they  reach  the  great  reservoir,  should  not  be  well 


80 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


watered.  This  we  observe  is  the  case  with  all  the  fine  flowing 
streams  of  the  high  land,  whereas  those  of  the  champaign  and 
prairie  settle  in  the  form  of  ponds,  which  stagnate  and  putiify. 
Besides,  on  the  same  account  there  are  very  few  heavy  rains  in 
the  summer  ;  and  hence,  during  that  season,  water  is  exceed¬ 
ingly  scarce.  The  Indians,  in  their  journeys,  pass  by  places 
where  they  know  there  are  ponds,  but  generally  they  are  under 
the  necessity  of  carrying  water  in  bladders.  This  drought  is 
not  confined  to  the  military  tract,  but  in  some  seasons  is  very 
general.  During  the  summer  of  1820,  it  was  truly  alarm¬ 
ing.  Travellers  in  many  instances  were  obliged  to  pass 
whole  days  in  the  warmest  weather,  without  being  able  to 
procure  a  cupfull  of  water  for  themselves  or  their  horses,  and 
that  which  they  occasionally  did  find  was  almost  putrid.  It 
may,  however,  be  remarked,  that  such  seasons  rarely  occur; 
but  on  account  of  its  being  washed  by  rivers  of  such  immense 
length,  this  section  of  the  country  is  peculiarly  liable  to  suffer 
from  excessive  drought. 

There  is  another  obstruction  to  the  rapid  settlement  of  this 
tract,  which  is,  that  it  is  owned  by  many  different  individuals, 
residing  in  different  parts  of  the  United  States.  This  circum¬ 
stance  subjects  the  emigrant  to  many  difficulties.  He  may  ex¬ 
plore  the  country,  and  find  a  spot  which  he  is  anxious  to  pur¬ 
chase  ;  but  he  is  unable  to  find  the  owner,  and  is  on  this  ac¬ 
count  obliged  to  abandon  his  intention,  in  this  way,  many  who 
have  wished  to  become  settlers,  have  been  deterred  from  accom¬ 
plishing  their  object. 

The  most  convenient  plan  for  those  who  wish  to  settle  on  the 
tract,  is  to  obtain  from  some  large  landholder,  or  from  some  person 
having  an  extensive  agency,  a  list  of  quarter  sections  for  sale  ; 
these  can  be  examined  with  the  certainty  that  if  they  are  suita¬ 
ble,  they  can  be  purchased.  This  is  the  plan  that  is  at  present 
adopted.  The  terms  of  sale  are  generally  very  moderate,  as  it 
is  the  object  of  the  proprietors  to  have  the  lands  settled.  It 
would  in  every  case  he  advisable  for  the  emigrant  to  visit  the 
tract,  and  make  a  selection  for  himself  previous  to  settlement. 

Upon  the  whole,  it  can  with  safety  be  said,  that  notwithstand¬ 
ing  these  objections  to  the  Illinois  military  tract,  it  bids  fair 
to  become  one  of  the  most  eligible  in  the  western  country. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


81 


it  embraces  a  great  variety  of  climate,  anil  is  favorable 
to  the  cultivation  of  the  different  kinds  of  grain.  In  the  north¬ 
ern  and  middle  sections,  wheat,  rye  and  oats,  would  no  doubt 
thrive  well ;  and  in  the  southern  part,  particularly  on  the  river, 
tobacco  might  be  profitably  raised.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Illi¬ 
nois,  which  is  in  Iat.  38°  54'  N,  to  lat.  40,  on  the  river,  the  vine 
could  probably  be  cultivated  with  success. 

There  are  some  directions  which  are  of  the  greatest  import¬ 
ance  to  those  who  are  about  to  examine  this  tract  of  country.# 
The  best  season  for  this  purpose  is  the  month  of  November.  In 
the  spring,  the  country  is  so  inundated,  that  it  is  almost  impos¬ 
sible  to  travel  ;  in  the  summer*  the  weather  is  so  warm  and  dis¬ 
agreeable,  that  an  exploring  journey  is  very  hazardous.  Be¬ 
sides,  at  this  season,  the  flies  and  musquitocs  are  exceedingly 
troublesome,  and  so  poisonous,  that  they  have  been  frequently 
known  to  kill  horses  and  other  animals  in  the  course  of  a  few 
hours. 

The  northern  part  of  this  county,  extending  from  the  eastern  to 
the  western  boundary  of  the  state,  embraces  a  considerable  variety 
of  soil  and  surface.  Near  Lake  Michigan,  the  country  abounds 
■with  prairies,  some  of  which  are  low  and  wet,  and  frequently 
form  swamps  and  ponds  ;  such  are  those  on  the  Kankakee,  and 
Dos  Plaines  rivers,  and  Kalamick  creeks.  It  is  on  this  account 
that  in  high  water,  a  communication  is  frequently  formed  be¬ 
tween  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan,  and  those  of  the  Illinois. — 
Towards  the  interior  and  western  part  of  this  county,  the  sur¬ 
face  becomes  more  uneven,  sometimes  hilly,  and  sometimes  gen¬ 
tly  undulating,  abounding  w  ith  the  ores  of  lead  and  iron,  partic¬ 
ularly  on  the  Mississippi,  above  Rock  river.  Little  is  as  yef. 
known  of  the  geography  in  the  interior,  as  it  is  but  thinly  set¬ 
tled,  and  has  seldom  been  explored  by  men  of  science  or  obser¬ 
vation. 

Pike  county  will  no  doubt  in  a  few  years  be  divided  into  seve¬ 
ral  counties  ;  some  of  which  will  become  very  wealthy  and  im¬ 
portant,  particularly  those  on  the  Mississippi,  and  on  the  lake. 
It  is  probable  that  the  Section  about  Fort  Clark  will  be  the  most 
thickly  settled,  and  perhaps,  in  an  agricultural  point  of  view,  it 

*  For  particular  directions  concerning  the  recording  of  deeds, end  the  payment  of  taxes  on  tie** 
InndSjSee  Militcn-y  Bounty  Tract. 

1  l 


82 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


is  the  most  important.  But  should  a  canal  be  opened  between  the 
Illinois  river  and  Lake  Michigan,  it  is  difficult  to  form  any  cor¬ 
rect  idea  of  the  relative  importance  of  the  different  sections  of 
this  extensive  county. 

This  county  contains  many  minerals,  which  prove  of  conside¬ 
rable  advantage  to  it.  On  the  Mississippi,  above  Rock  river, 
lead  ore  is  found  in  abundance.  It  is  of  an  excellent  quality, 
and  yields  from  80  to  85  per  cent  pure  lead.  Iron  is  found  in 
large  quantities.  At  different  places  on  the  Illinois,  there  are 
immense  strata  of  coal,  of  the  best  quality.  Copper  is  also  found 
in  detached  masses  near  Fort  Clark.  The  Indians  say  it  exists 
in  large  quantities,  but  as  yet,  there  is  no  evidence  of  the  truth 
of  their  assertion.  Ochres  of  various  kinds  are  found  in  the  south¬ 
ern  part  of  the  military  tract,  and  buhr  stone  of  an  excellent  qua¬ 
lity  has  also  been  discovered  near  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois. 

Pike  county  contains  between  7  and  800  inhabitants.  It  is 
attached  to  the  first  judicial  circuit  ;  sends  one  member  to  the 
house  of  representatives,  and  with  Greene,  one  to  the  senate. — 
Its  county  seat  is  Colesgrove. 

Pope  County. 

Pope  county  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state.  It  is 
bounded  north  by  Gallatin,  east  and  south  by  the  Ohio  river, 
and  west  by  Johnson  county.  Its  length  is  36  miles,  with 
a  medium  width  of  about  16  :  its  area  is  about  576  square  miles. 

This  county  is  washed  on  the  east  and  south  by  the  Ohio 
river  ;  the  interior  is  watered  by  Big  Bay  creek,  and  some  other 
small  streams,  emptying  into  the  Ohio.  It  is  generally  well 
timbered.  The  surface  is  generally  level,  except  on  the  banks 
of  the  Ohio.  The  soil  is  sandy,  but  yields  good  crops. 

Pope  county  contains  2610  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the 
fourth  judicial  circuit ;  sends  two  members  to  the  house  of  re¬ 
presentatives,  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  Gol- 
condn. 

Randolph  County. 

Randolph  county  is  situated  in  the  western  part  of  the  state, 
and  is  large  and  populous.  It  is  bounded  north  by  the  counties 
of  Monroe,  St.  Clair  and  Washington,  east  by  Jefferson  and 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


83 

Franklin,  and  south  and  vest  by  Jackson  county  and  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi  river.  Its  greatest  length  is  54  miles  ;  greatest  breadth, 
27  :  area,  828  square  miles. 

This  county  is  watered  by  the  Kaskaskia  and  Little  Muddy 
rivers,  Beaucoup  creek,  and  several  other  smaller  streams. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Kaskaskia  river  commences  the  Ameri¬ 
can  bottom,  which  extends  along  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi 
northwardly  upwards  of  one  hundred  miles.  It  is  the  most  fer¬ 
tile  tract  of  land  in  the  state.  Upon  this  the  first  settlements 
were  made  by  the  French  of  Canada.  Their  villages  still  retain 
much  of  their  antique  appearance.  Below  the  mouth  of  the 
Kaskaskia,  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi  is  generally  high  and 
rocky,  affording  good  sites  for  towns. 

In  the  interior  of  this  county,  the  surface  is  frequently  undu¬ 
lating,  and  sometimes  hilly.  It  contains  3492  inhabitants.  It 
is  attached  to  the  third  judicial  circuit ;  sends  three  members  to 
the  house  of  representatives,  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of 
justice  is  Kaskaskia. 

Sangamon  County. 

Sangamon  county  was  erected  from  Bond  and  Madison  in 
1821.  It  is  bounded  north  by  the  county  of  Pike,  east  by  Fay¬ 
ette,  south  and  west  by  the  counties  of  Montgomery,  Greene 
and  Pike.  Its  greatest  length  is  126  miles  ;  greatest  breadth, 
75  miles :  its  area  is  5292  square  miles. 

This  county  is  washed  on  the  west  by  the  Illinois.  The  in¬ 
terior  is  watered  by  the  Sangamo  river  and  its  numerous  tribu¬ 
taries,  and  also  by  several  considerable  streams  emptying  into 
the  Illinois  above  and  below. 

The  county  of  Sangamon,  ever  since  its  first  settlemenf,  has 
been  justly  esteemed  the  most  desirable  tract  in  the  state  ;  and  it 
consequently  has  been  settled  with  a  rapidity  heretofore  unequal¬ 
led.  Previous  to  1819,  not  a  white  inhabitant  was  to  be  found 
on  the  waters  of  the  Sangamo ;  at  present  the  population  amounts 
to  near  5000,  while  not  a  single  acre  of  the  land  has  as  yet  been 
brought  into  market.  The  Sangamo  river,  which  runs  a  north¬ 
easterly  course  through  the  southern  part  of  this  county,  may, 
at  a  trifling  expense,  be  made  navigable  for  nearly  two  hundred 


84 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


miles :  it  is  now  obstructed  by  timber.  This  stream  passes 
through  a  tract  of  country  which  is  seldom  excelled  in  fertility. 
It  is  high  and  undulating,  well  watered  with  creeks  and  springs, 
and  is  beautifully  interspersed  with  timber  and  prairie,  the  for¬ 
mer  of  which  consists  principally  of  hickory,  maple,  oak,  &c. 
The  prairies  frequently  contain  fine  groves  of  timber,  some  ot 
which,  from  their  appearance,  have  received  the  names  ot  Elk- 
heart  grove,  Buffaloe-heart  grove,  &c.  These  groves  are  ge¬ 
nerally  elevated  above  the  surrounding  prairie,  and  are  most 
advantageous  situations  for  settlement.  The  inhabitants  reside 
on  the  margin  of  the  timber,  extending  their  plantations  to  any 
distance  into  the  prairie.  The  groves  above  mentioned  already 
contain  a  large  and  respectable  population,  from  different  parts 
of  the  United  States.  During  the  last  session  of  the  legislature, 
a  company  was  incorporated  by  the  name  of  the  Sangamo 
milling  company with  a  capital  of  S20,000.  This  will  be  of 
immense  advantage  to  the  inhabitants  of  this  tract. 

This  county  contains  a  number  of  salt  springs,  some  of  which 
will  prove  valuable  when  the  land  in  the  vicinity  shall  have  been 
surveyed  and  sold  to  individuals.  Coal  is  also  abundant. 

The  population  of  Sangamon  county  cannot  be  correctly  esti¬ 
mated.  It  is  attached  to  the  first  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one 
member  to  the  house  of  representatives,  and  one  to  the  senate* 
Its  seat  of  justice  is  Springfield. 

St.  Clair  County. 

St  Clair  county  is  situated  in  the  western  part  of  the  state. 
It  is  hounded  north  by  Madison  county,  east  by  Washington, 
south  by  Randolph,  and  west  by  Monroe  county  and  the  Misr 
sissippi  river,  its  greatest  length  is  36  miles  ;  greatest  breadth 
as  :  its  area  is  702  square  miles. 

This  county  is  watered  by  the  Kaskaskia  river,  Silver,  Rich¬ 
land,  and  Cahokia  creeks.  On  the  west  it  is  washed  by  the 
Mississippi.  The  surface  is  generally  undulating,  and  some¬ 
times  hilly.  On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  there  is  a  low  and 
fertile  alluvion.  In  the  interior  are  several  very  rich  and  flour¬ 
ishing  settlements.  Maize  is  as  yet  the  staple  of*  (his  county,  al¬ 
though  other  grains  are  raised  in  considerable  abundance. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES, 


85 


St  Clair  county  contains  5243  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to 
the  first  judicial  circuit ;  sends  three  members  to  the  house  of 
representatives,  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is 
Belleville . 

Union  County. 

Union  county  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  and 
js  small,  but  populous.  It  is  bounded  north  by  the  counties  of 
Jackson  and  Franklin,  east  by  Johnson,  south  by  Alexander, 
and  west  by  the  Mississippi  river.  Its  greatest  length  is  24 
miles,  and  its  breadth  18  :  its  area  is  396  square  miles. 

This  county  is  washed  on  the  west  by  the  Mississippi  river. 
The  interior  is  watered  by  Muddy  river,  Clear  creek,  and  the 
sources  of  Cash  river. 

Union  county  contains  a  population  of  2236.  It  is  attached 
to  the  fourth  judicial  circuit ;  sends  two  members  to  the  house  of 
representatives,  and  with  Alexander,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat 
pf  justice  is  Jonesborough . 

Washington  County. 

Washington  county  is  situated  near  the  central  part  of  the 
state.  Its  form  is  a  square  of  30  miles,  with  an  area  of  900 
square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by  the  counties  of  xMadison, 
Bond  and  Fayette ;  east  by  Jefferson  ;  south  by  Randolph,  and 
west  by  St  Clair. 

This  county  is  watered  by  the  Kaskaskia  river,  and  numerous 
tributaries  emptying  into  it  on  the  east  and  west  side.  The 
banks  of  these  streams  are  generally  well  timbered,  but  in  the 
interior,  the  prairies  are  extensive,  and  sometimes  sterile.  The 
surface  is  generally  level.  The  grand  prairie  passes  through  the 
northeast  corner  of  the  county.  Washington  contains  1517  in¬ 
habitants.  It  is  attached  to  the  third  judicial  circuit  ;  sends  one 
member  to  the  house  of  representatives,  and  one  to  the  senate. 
Its  seat  of  justice  is  Covington. 

Wayne  County. 

Wayne  county  is  situated  in  the  interior  of  the  state.  It  is 
bounded  north  by  the  counties  of  Crawford  and  Fayette  $  east 


86 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


\ 


by  Lawrence  and  Edwards  ;  south  by  White  and  Hamilton,  and 
west  by  Jefferson.  Its  greatest  length  is  33  miles — breadth  24 
— its  area  is  720  square  miles.  This  county  is  watered  by  the 
Little  Wabash  river,  and  several  of  its  tributaries.  It  is  hand¬ 
somely  interspersed  with  prairie  and  woodland,  and  contains 
several  saliue  springs. 

Wayne  contains  1114  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the  sec¬ 
ond  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  repre¬ 
sentatives,  and  with  Lawrence,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of 
justice  is  Fairfield . 

White  County. 

.  •  K  f 

White  county  is  situated  in  the  southeastern  part  of  the  state. 
Its  form  is  nearly  a  square,  of  21  miles,  containing  an  area  of 
441  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by  the  counties  of  Ed¬ 
wards  and  Wayne  ;  east  by  the  Wabash  river  ;  south  by  Gal¬ 
latin  county,  and  west  by  Hamilton. 

The  eastern  boundary  of  this  county  is  washed  by  the  Wabash 
river;  the  interior  is  watered  by  the  Little  Wabash,  and  its 
numerous  tributaries.  The  remarks  heretofore  made  with  re¬ 
gard  to  (he  inundation  of  these  streams  in  the  counties  of  Ed¬ 
wards  and  Lawrence,  apply  here.  The  banks  of  these  streams 
are  generally  timbered.  In  the  interior  are  large  prairies.  The 
situation  of  this  county  is  so  very  advantageous,  that  it  will  no 
doubt  become  populous  and  wealthy.  It  already  furnishes  a 
considerable  quantity  of  surplus  produce  for  the  southern  mar¬ 
ket. 

White  county  contains  upwards  of  2000  inhabitants.  It  is  at¬ 
tached  to  the  second  judicial  circuit;  sends  three  members  to 
the  house  of  representatives^  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of 
justice  is  Carmi. 


> 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW, 


OF  THE 

TOWNS,  VILLAGES,  RIVERS,  CREEKS,  &c.  &c. 
IN  THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS, 

ARRANGED  ALPHABETICALLY*. 


Albion,  a  post  town,  the  capital  of  Edwards  county,  situated 
on  section  2,  of  township  2  south,  in  range  10,  east  of  the  third 
principal  meridian,  40  miles  southwest  of  Vincennes,  and  110 
southeast  of  Vandalra.  It  was  laid  out  3  years  since  by  Messrs. 
Birkbeck  and  Flowers,  and  is  principally  inhabited  by  English 
emigrants.  It  contains  4  or  5  stores,  a  market,  a  mill,  and  a  pop¬ 
ulation  of  upwards  of  200.  The  situation  of  this  place  is  high 
and  healthy,  being  little  subject  to  those  diseases  which  are  so 
prevalent  in  many  parts  of  this  state  during  the  summer  and  au¬ 
tumn.  The  surrounding  c  ountry,  which  is  rapidly  increasing 
in  population,  is  very  fertile,  and  is  handsomely  diversified  with 
woodland  and  prairie. 

Alton  ( lower, )  a  small  post  town  of  Madison  county,  laid  out 
by  Col.  R.  Easton,  in  1818,  on  fractional  sections  thirteen  and 
fourteen,  in  township  5  n  rth,  in  range  10,  west  of  the  third 
principal  meridian.  It  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Mississippi  river,  on  a  rocky  bluff,  which  forms  the  nor¬ 
thern  boundary  of  the  American  bottom,  two  miles  above  the 
junction  of  the  Missouri  with  the  Mississippi,  and  18  miles  be¬ 
low  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois.  The  population  of  this  place  is 
rapidly  increasing,  and  the  improvements  are  going  on  with 
great  activity.  Alton,  although  as  vet  small  and  unimportant, 
possesses  natural  advantages  rarely  equalled.  Situated  as  it  is 
at  the  junction  of  three  large  and  navigable  rivers  ;  possessing  a 
fine  commodious  harbor,  and  landing  for  boats  at  all  seasons  of 
the  year  ;  surrounded  by  a  fertile  and  thickly  settled  country,  it 
bids  fair  to  become  a  populous,  wealthy  and  commercial  town. 
The  fact  that  this  is  almost  the  only  good  town  site  on  the  eastern 


4 


88 


GAZETTEER  OE  ILLINOIS. 


bank  of  the  Mississippi,  is  much  in  its  favour.  Stone  coal,  of  e, 
good  quality,  is  found  in  abundance  at  a  short  distance  from  this 
place.  It  is  overlaid  by  strata  of  limestone  and  sandstone  ;  the 
former  of  which  furnishes  good  lime  ;  and  the  latter,  possessing  a 
fine  grit, is  quarried  for  architectural  purposes.  Gypsum  has  also 
been  discovered  in  this  vicinity,  but  it  is  still  uncertain  whether 
it  exists  in  any  considerable  quantity.  In  addition  to  these  ad¬ 
vantages,  the  road  leading  from  the  east  to  Boonslick  and  Salt 
river  countries,  passes  through  this  place,  and  crosses  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi  at  Fountain  ferry.  Alton  is  in  lat.  38°  52'  N.  20  miles 
north  of  St.  Louis,  and  60  miles  w  est  of  Vandalia. 

Mon ,  ( upper,  J  a  small  post-town  of  Madison  county,  about 
one  mile  east  of  Lower  Alton,  laid  out  in  1816,  and  incorpora¬ 
ted  under  the  government  of  a  board  of  trustees  in  1821.  The 
limits  of  the  incorporation  include  all  that  part  of  section  7  of 
township  5  north,  in  range  9,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian, 
lying  south  of  a  tract  in  said  section,  commonly  called  the 
Hodges  tract,  of  255  acres. 

The  situation  of  this  town  is  high  and  healthy.  It  contains 
nearly  100  houses.  The  inhabitants,  a  great  proportion  of 
whom  are  from  the  eastern  states,  are  enterprising  and  indus¬ 
trious.  The  soil  of  the  surrounding  lands  is  generally  fertile; 
the  face  of  the  country  undulating  ;  the  prevailing  growth,  w  al¬ 
nut,  hickory,  and  oak. 

The  original  proprietors  of  Alton  made  a  donation  of  100 
town  lots,  one  half  for  the  support  of  the  gospel,  and  the  other 
half  for  the  support  of  public  schools.  These,  by  the  act  of  in¬ 
corporation,  are  placed  under  the  direction  of  the  trustees. 

•America *  a  post  town,  and  the  county  seat  of  Alexander,  si¬ 
tuated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Ohio  river,  10  miles  above  its 
junction  with  the  Mississippi.  It  was  incorporated  in  1821, 
under  the  government  of  five  trustees.  Tire  boundaries  of  the 
incorporation  included  sections  nine,  ten,  three  and  four  of 
township  16  south,  in  range  1,  east  of  the  3d  principal  meridian. 

This  tow  n  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Cash  river,  a  small 
stream  emptying  into  the  Ohio,  and  on  the  first  high  land  above 
the  junction  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi.  On  this  account  it 
may  become  a  place  of  some  importance.  At  present,  however* 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


89 


it  contains  but  few  inhabitants.  The  surrounding  country  is 
low,  marshy,  and  subject  to  intermittent  and  bilious  remittent 
fevers. 

America  is  situated  in  Lat.  37°  10'  N.  and  125  miles  due 
south  of  Vandalia. 


Apple  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Greene  county  ;  runs  a  west 
course,  and  empties  into  the  Illinois  river,  in  section  36.  town¬ 
ship  II  north,  in  range  14,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian. 


Athens ,  a  small  town  in  St.  Clair  county,  27  miles  southeast 
from  St.  Louis,  and  14  miles  nearly  south  from  Belleville.  It 
is  situated  on  a  high  bank  of  the  Kaskaskia  river.  The  lands 
in  the  vicinity  are  generally  of  a  good  quality,  and  abound 
with  springs  of  the  finest  water.  There  is  a  ferry  here,  and  a 
number  of  saw  and  grist  mills  in  the  vicinity.  The  new  road 
from  St.  Louis  to  Shavvneetown  by  this  place  and  Big  Beaucoup, 
is  said  to  shorten  the  distance  several  miles. 


Aurora ,  a  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Clark  county. 

Au  Vase  river ,  see  Big  Muddy. 

Balance  creek,  a  small  stream,  forming  a  part  of  the  boundary 
between  Sangamo  and  Greene  counties*  It  runs  a  westerly 
course,  and  empties  into  the  Illinois  on  the  left  side,  four  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  Crooked  creek. 

Bachelor’s  run ,  a  small  stream  of  Sangamon  county  ;  holds 
a  west  course,' and  empties  into  the  Illinois  on  ihe  east  side, 
nearly  opposite  Fort  Clark.  On  its  banks  are  several  beautiful 
and  fertile  prairies,  which  already  contain  a  comparatively 
dense  population,  constituting  the  most  northern  settlement  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  Illinois. 

Battery  rocks ,  a  ledge  of  perpendicular  rocks  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ohio,  24  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash,  and 
8  above  Cave  in  Rock. 

Bean  river ,  ( Riviere  au  Feve,  Fr.)  a  navigable  stream  of 
Pike  county,  emptying  into  the  Mississippi  three  miles  below 
Cattish  creek,  twenty  miles  below  Dubuque  s  mines,  and  about 

1  o 


90 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


seventy  above  Rock  river.  Nine  miles  up  this  stream,  a  smalt 
creek  empties  into  it  from  the  west.  The  hanks  of  this  creek, 
and  the  hills  which  hound  its  alluvion,  are  filled  with  lead  ore 
of  the  best  quality.  Three  miles  below  this,  on  the  banks  of 
Bean  river,  is  the  Trader’s  village,  consisting  of  10  or  12 
houses  or  cabins.  At  this  place,  the  ore  procured  from,  or 
brought  in  by  the  Indians,  is  smelted,  and  then  sent  in  boats 
cither  to  Canada  or  New-Orleans.  The  mines  are  at  present 
extensively  worked  by  Col.  Johnson  of  Kentucky,  who,  during 
the  last  session  of  congress,  obtained  the  exclusive  right  of 
working  them  for  three  years. 

From  the  rapids  of  Bean  river,  which  are  about  three  miles 
above  the  creek,  to  its  mouth,  the  current  is  very  gentle,  and 
the  water  deep — affording  navigation  at  all  seasons  to  boats  of 
the  largest  size,  and  thus  presenting  every  facility  for  exporting 
the  lead. 

The  lands  on  this  stream  are  poor,  and  only  valuable  on  ac¬ 
count  of  the  immense  quantities  of  mineral  which  they  contain. 

Bear  creek ,  ( Mah-waw-kee-ta,  Ind.)  a  stream  of  the  north¬ 
western  part  of  the  state.  It  runs  a  westerly  course,  and  emp¬ 
ties  into  the  Mississippi  near  the  northern  boundary  line  of  Illi¬ 
nois.  At  the  mouth  of  this  stream  the  bluffs  approach  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  and  form  a  commanding  site  for  a  fort. 

Beaver  creek ,  a  small  stream,  rising  in  tow  nship  5  north,  in 
range  2  and  3  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian,  and  running  a 
southerly  course  through  Bond  and  Washington  counties,  emp¬ 
ties  into  Shoal  creek  on  the  leftside,  in  the  upper  part  of  town¬ 
ship  1  north,  in  range  4  west.  It  is  about  twenty-five  miles  in 
length,  and  waters  a  very  fertile  tract  of  country. 

Beaucoup  creek ,  see  Big  and  Little  Beaucoup. 

Beck's  creek,  a  small  stream  of  Fayette  county.  It.  rises  in 
township  11  north,  in  range  1,  eastof  the  3d  principal  meridian  • 
runs  a  southeast  course  about  20  miles,  and  empties  into  the 
Kaskaskia  river  on  the  west  side.  The  lands  between  this  creek 
and  an  easterly  branch  which  rises  in  township  10  north,  in  range 
3  east,  are  first  rate,  handsomely  diversified  with  timber  and 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


91 


prairie.  On  this  stream  arc  situated  Beck’s  and  Wakefield’s 
settlements,  each  consisting  of  about  20  families. 

Belleville ,  a  flourishing  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  St. 
Clair  county.  It  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  ofRichland  creek, 
four  miles  east  of  the  bluffs,  which  bound  the  American  bottom, 
and  fifteen  miles  southeast  of  St.  Louis.  It  contains  a  court 
house,  a  jail,  an  academy,  and  a  public  library.  The  academy 
is  under  the  government  often  trustees,  who  have  the  power  of 
leasing  upon  their  own  terms  for  ten  years,  section  16  of 
township  1  in  range  8,  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian,  re¬ 
served  for  the  use  of  schools  in  said  township.  The  population 
of  this  town  is  upwards  of  five  hundred.  It  is  in  the  centre  of 
the  Turkev-Hill  settlement,  which  is  one  of  the  most  flourish¬ 
ing  in  the  state. 

Belleville  is  in  latitude  38°  £5'  north,  60  miles  southwest  of 
Yandalia.  It  is  located  on  an  old  Spanish  claim,  including  parts 
of  sections  £2,  £3,  £7  and  28,  of  township  I  north,  in  range  8 
west  of  the  third  principal  meridian. 

Belgrade ,  a  post  town  in  Pope  county.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Ohio  river,  on  the  southern  parts  of  sections  8  and  9,  of  town¬ 
ship  16  south,  in  range  5,  east  of  the  third  principal  meridian. — « 
It  contains  from  1£  to  £0  houses  and  cabins,  which  are  frequent¬ 
ly  deserted  on  account  of  the  inundations  of  the  Ohio.  The  sur¬ 
rounding  country  is  low  and  marshy. 

Big  Buy  creek ,  a  small  stream  rising  in  the  northeastern  part 
of  Johnson  county,  and  running  in  a  southwardly  direction 
through  the  centre  of  Pope  county,  falls  into  the  Ohio  in  section 
36,  of  township  14  south,  in  range  6,  east  of  the  third  principal 
meridian,  ten  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Cumberland  river.  It 
is  nearly  30  miles  in  length. 

Big  Beaucoup  creek ,  rises  in  the  southeastern  part  of  Washing¬ 
ton  county,  and  running  a  southwardly  course  through  Ran¬ 
dolph  and  Jackson  counties,  about  40  miles,  falls  into  Big  Mud¬ 
dy  river,  in  section  35,  of  township  7  south,  in  range  2,  west  of 
the  third  principal  meridian.  A  toll  bridge  has  lately  been  built 
across  this  stream,  where  the  state  road  leading  from  Shawnee- 
town  to  Kaskaskia  crosses  it. 


92 


GAZETTEER  OP  ILLINOIS. 


Big  Muddy  river ,  (Riviere  a u  Vase,  ou  Vaseux,  discovered 
and  named  I)}  the  French,)  a  considerable  stream  in  the  south¬ 
western  part  of  the  state.  It  rises  between  the  waters  of  the 
Kaskaskia  and  Little  Wabash,  and  running  a  southern  and 
Southwestern  course  through  the  counties  of  Jefferson,  Franklin, 
Jackson  and  Union,  empties  into  the  Mississippi,  between  sec¬ 
tions  1  and  12,  of  township  1 1  south,  in  range  4,  west  of  the  3d 
principal  meridian,  about  50  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio. 
Being  fed  by  Little  Muddy  river,  Beacoup  creek,  and  several 
other  smaller  streams,  it  is  rendered  boatable  for  40  or  50  miles 
through  a  line  prairie  country.  About  25  miles  from  its  mouth? 
stone  coal  of  a  good  quality,  is  found  in  a  sufficient  quantity  to 
supply  the  surrounding  country,  and  afford  a  surplus  for  expor¬ 
tation.  Native  copper  has  also  been  found  in  detached  masses 
on  the  banks  of  this  stream. 

Big  Fiasau  creek ,  a  considerable  stream  of  Greene  and  Mad¬ 
ison  counties,  running  a  southwest  course,  and  emptying  into 
the  Mississippi  on  the  leftside,  at  Smeltzer’s  Ferry,  5  miles 
above  Alton,  and  12  below  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois,  in  section 
25,  of  township  6  north,  in  range  11,  west  of  the  third  princi¬ 
pal  meridian,  its  length  is  about  forty  miles. 

Birkbeck  settlement ,  a  flourishing  settlement  on  English  prai¬ 
rie,  near  Albion. 

Blackbird  creek ,  a  small  stream,  running  a  southeasterly 
course,  and  emptying  into  the  Kaskaskia  river,  on  the  right 
side  near  its  source. 

Bon  Pas ,  a  creek  in  Edwards  county.  It  empties  into  the 
Wabash  in  section  14,  township  3  south,  in  range  14,  west  of  the 
second  principal  meridian — 25  miles  below  the  mouth  of  White 
river. 

Bon  Pas ,  a  small  town  in  the  northeastern  part  of  White 
county.  It  is  situated  on  Big  Wabash  river. 

Brnlette  river ,  a  stream  of  Clark  county,  runs  a  southeast 
course,  and  falls  into  the  Wabash  river,  a  few  miles  above  Fort 
H  arrison.  It  crosses  fcthe  eastern  boundary  line  of  the  state,  70 
miles  north  of  Vincennes,  At  this  place  it  is  100  links  in  width. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  93 

Bonntyvttle,  a  town  in  Pike  county,  laid  out  in  1819,  on  the 
east  half  of  section  31,$  of  township  10 south,  in  range  2,  west 
of  the  third  principal  meridian,  between  the  bluffs  and  a  bayou 
of  the  Mississippi.  The  surrounding  country  is  fertile,  but  sub¬ 
ject  to  inundation. 

Bridgewater ,  a  small  town  in  Monroe  county,  situated  on 
L’ Eagle  creek,  one  mile  east  of  the  Mississippi,  and  about  the 
same  distance  north  of  Harrisonville. 

Brownsville ,  a  flourishing  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice 
of  Jackson  county,  incorporated  in  1819,  under  the  direction  of 
fi\e  trustees.  It  is  situated  on  Big  Muddy  river,  on  section  2, 
of  township  9  south,  in  range  3,  west  of  the  third  principal  meri¬ 
dian.  The  inhabitants  are  principally  German.  About  4  miles 
above  this  place,  on  the  east  bank  of  Muddy,  is  a  saline  :  build¬ 
ing  stone  of  the  best  quality  also  exists  in  abundance. 

Brownsville  is  in  latitude  37°  45'  north,  84  miles,  somewhat 
west  of  south,  from  Vandalia. 

Brush  creek ,  empties  into  the  Sangamo  river  from  the  south, 
a  short  distance  from  Mowaweequa  creek.  There  is  a  conside¬ 
rable  settlement  on  this  stream. 

Buffaloe  heart ,  a  fine  settlement  of  Sangamon  county,  in  a 
grove  so  called,  situated  between  Salt  creek  and  Sangamo  river, 
in  township  14  north,  in  range  4,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meri¬ 
dian.  The  grove  is  about  2  miles  square,  and  is  surrounded  by 
a  large  prairie,  which  is  gently  undulating,  and  very  fertile. 
The  prairie  is  also  surrounded  by  timber  of  the  best  quality, 
such  as  oak,  walnut,  maple,  &c.  The  settlers  reside  on  the 
edges  of  the  timber,  extending  their  plantations  into  the  prairie. 
The  grove,  which  received  its  name  from  its  resemblance  to  the 
buffaloe’s  heart,  is  considerably  elevated  above  the  surrounding 
prairie,  and  affords  the  most  beautiful  situations  for  farm  houses. 
It  already  contains  a  dense  population. 

Cairo ,  a  town  in  Alexander  county,  laid  out  under  the  au¬ 
thority  of  the  legislative  council  of  the  territory  of  Illinois.  I* 
is  situated  three  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  river.  (See 
Alexander  county.) 


94 


GAZETTEER  OP  ILLINOIS. 

Cahokia  creek ,  rises  in  Greene  county  ;  runs  in  a  southwardly 
direction  through  the  counties  of  Madison  and  St.  Clair,  and 
empties  into  the  Mississippi  four  miles  below  St  Louis.  On 
this  stream  are  several  flour  mills,  which,  though  of  great  im¬ 
portance  to  the  inhabitants,  are  a  prolific  source  of  disease. 
This  stream  is  so  sluggish,  that  one  dam  across  it  in  the  Ameri¬ 
can  bottom,  backs  the  water,  following  its  meanders,  15  miles. 
In  this  distance  it  communicates  with  numerous  ponds  and 
marshes,  which,  during  freshets,  are  filled  with  water  backed 
into  them  from  the  mill-pond  ;  and  which,  when  the  water  falls, 
are  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  sun.*  It  is  observed  by  the 
French  inhabitants  who  reside  on  this  stream,  that  they  for¬ 
merly  enjoyed  good  health  ;  but  that  fevers  have  been  much 
more  frequent  among  them  since  mill-dams  have  been  erected. 
Near  the  upper  dam  on  the  bottom  on  the  same  creek,  scarcely 
an  individual  has  ever  been  known  to  spend  the  summer  and 
autumn,  without  an  attack  of  fever  of  the  intermittent  or  remit¬ 
tent  kind. — On  the  banks  of  this  stream  are  an  immense  number 
of  mounds,  of  different  sizes  and  descriptions. 

Cahokia ,  a  post  village  in  St.  Clair  county,  three  fourths  of 
a  mile  east  of  the  Mississippi  river,  and  five  miles  south  of  St. 
Louis.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  the  state.  The 
Caoquias,  a  considerable  tribe  of  the  Illinois,  had,  for  a  long 
time  previous  to  the  discovery  of  the  Mississippi,  made  it  a 
resting  place,  probably  on  account  of  the  game  with  which  the 
river  and  the  ponds  in  the  vicinity  abounded.  We  have  no  dis¬ 
tinct  account  of  the  first  settlement  of  this  place  by  the  French  ; 
but  it  is  probable  that  it  occurred  shortly  after  La  Salle  de¬ 
scended  the  Mississippi  in  1683.  Pleased  as  some  of  his  fol¬ 
lowers  were  with  the  apparent  ease  and  happiness  which  the 
savages  enjoyed,  it  is  probable  that  they  chose  rather  to  remain 
among  them,  than  return  to  their  own  country,  instances  of 
this  kind  are  frequently  mentioned  by  Tonti  and  Hennepin  ; 
and  as  the  object  of  the  adventurous  La  Salle  was  to  settle  and 
civilize  the  country,  their  choice  seldom  met  with  opposition. 
Father  Charlevoix,  who  visited  this  place  in  1721,  observes  : — 


*  See  Dr.  Woodworth’s  essay  on  the  injurious  effects  of  mill-dams,  read  before  the  Illinois  agri¬ 
cultural  society  in  182 1. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OP  TOWNS,  &C. 


95 


6i  I  was  astonished  that  they  had  pitched  upon  so  inconvenient  a 
situation,  (being  §o  far  from  the  river,)  especially  as  they  had 
so  many  better  places  in  their  choice  ;  but  I  was  told  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi  washed  the  foot  of  that  village  when  it  was  built ;  that 
in  three  years  it  has  lost  half  a  league  of  its  breadth,  and  that, 
they  were  thinking  of  seeking  out  another  habitation.’’ — The 
Indians  gradually  abandoned  Cahokia,  as  the  French  settlers 
increased  :  they  were,  however,  always  on  the  most  friendly 
terms  with  them. 

In  1766,  Cahokia  contained  forty  families  ;  and  at  the  com¬ 
mencement  of  the  revolution,  their  number  had  increased  to 
about  fifty.  By  an  act  of  congress  passed  in  1788,  400  acres  of 
land  adjoining  the  village  was  granted  to  each  family  ;  and  by 
a  subsequent  act,  the  lands  used  by  the  inhabitants  of  Cahokia 
and  Prairie  du  Pont  in  common,  were  appropriated  to  the  use  of 
said  inhabitants,  until  otherwise  directed  by  law. 

Cahokia  contains  above  100  houses,  the  majority  of  which  are 
built  of  pickets,  one  story  high  :  they  generally  have  piazzas  on 
every  side,  and  being  whitewashed  on  the  outside,  have  a  lively 
appearance.  Here  is  also  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  in  which 
service  is  regularly  performed.  The  inhabitants,  between  4  and 
500  in  number,  are  principally  French.  These  preserve  all  their 
ancient  manners  and  customs  ;  with  few  exceptions,  are  poor, 
indolent  and  illiterate.  The  utmost  extent  of  their  industry  is 
to  raise  a  few  acres  of  corn,  and  procure  a  few  loads  of  prairie 
hay. 

This  place  formerly  enjoyed,  on  account  of  its  proximity  to 
the  Indians,  an  extensive  and  valuable  fur  trade  ;  but  at  present 
it  possesses  few  or  no  advantages,  and  from  the  number  of  de- 
caved  and  deserted  houses,  appears  to  be  on  the  decline.  The 
situation,  although  somewhat  elevated,  is  damp  and  disagreea¬ 
ble  :  in  high  water  it  is  frequently  inundated.  The  xAmericans 
seldom  pass  a  season  without  suffering  from  the  effects  of  the 
miasma  arising  from  the  ponds  in  the  vicinity.  The  French, 
whether  on  account  of  their  being  inured  to  the  climate,  their 
manner  of  living,  or  from  their  possessing  more  hardy  constitu¬ 
tions,  are  little  affected  by  it,  but  generally  enjoy  good  health. 
-—Coal  is  found  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place.  Its  discovery  was 
singular,  arid  deserves  to  be  noticed.  6t  Some  years  since,  a 


96 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


tree  taking  fire,  communicated  to  its*  roots,  which  continued 
burning  for  some  time  :  upon  examination,  the}  were  found  to 
have  passed  through  a  bed  of  coal.  The  fire  continued  until  it 
was  completely  smothered  by  the  falling  in  of  large  masses  of 
incumbent  earth.”#  * 

It  may  be  remarked  here,  that  a  town  has  been  laid  out  on  a 
part  of  the  commons  of  Cahokia,  called  the  City  of  Illinois  ,*  the 
lots  have  been  distributed  among  the  citizens,  and  the  distribu¬ 
tion  has  been  confirmed  by  a  late  act  of  congress.  Its  govern¬ 
ment  is  vested  in  five  trustees.  It  possesses  no  advantages,  and 
will  probably  never  be  valuable,  except  for  corn-fields  and  po¬ 
tato  patches. 

Cawwaga,  f  Riviere  des  Iroquois,  Fr.)  a  considerable  river  ; 
rises  in  the  western  part  of  the  state  of  Indiana,  and  running  a 
north  course  about  100  miles,  empties  into  the  Kankakee  river* 
It  received  the  name  of  Iroquois  river,  from  the  circumstance  of 
a  large  party  of  the  Iroquois  being  surprised  and  massacred  on 
its  banks  by  the  Illinois. f  This  is  probably  the  same  stream 
which  is  named  upon  the  map,  Pickamink  river,  upon  the  au¬ 
thority  of  the  commissioners  appointed  by  Illinois  and  Indiana 
for  settling  the  boundary  line  between  those  states.  Tire  Kick- 
apoo  Indians  call  it  Mocabella.  It  crosses  the  boundary  line 
about  23  miles  south  of  the  Theakiki,  in  township  27  north. 
Its  banks  resemble  very  much  those  of  the  Illinois  :  its  current 
is  gentle,  and  the  lands  bordering  on  it  are  generally  of  a  good 
quality.  The  width  of  this  stream  where  it  crosses  the  eastern 
boundary  line  of  the  state,  is  175  links. 

Canteen  creek ,  a  small  branch  of  Cahokia  creek,  emptying  in 
from  the  cast  about  fifteen  miles  above  its  mouth. 

Cap  an  Grais ,  (big,)  a  small  stream  of  Greene  county,  empty¬ 
ing  into  the  Illinois  river,  near  its  junction  w  ith  the  Mississippi. 

Cap  an  Grais ,  (little,)  a  trifling  stream  of  the  southern  part  of 
Pike  county. 

Carlyle ,  a  post  town  in  Washington  county,  laid  out  in  1818, 


*  Brae  kenriuge’s  View  of  Louisiana. 

*  Sec  Charlevoix. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


97 


on  flic  west  bank  ofthe  Kaskaskia  river,  at  Hill  s  ferry,  in  sec¬ 
tion  18.  in  township  2,  not  th  of  range  2,  west  ofthe  third  prin¬ 
cipal  meridian,  a  few  miles  below  Hurric  ane  and  Eastforks.  The 
situation  is  considerably  elevated,  but  not  so  healthy  as  one 
unacquainted  with  it  would  imagine.  It  contains  several 
stores,  and  is  generally  in  a  state  of  improvement.  The  Kas- 
kaskia  at  some  seasons  is  navigable  to  this  plac  e  for  boats  of 
considerable  burthen.  The  surrounding  c  ountry  is  principally 
prairie,  and  this  circumstance  will  perhaps  be  a  serious  injury 
to  the  town.  There  are  several  grist  and  saw  mills  here,  and 
several  quarries  of  good  building  stone.  Salt  water  has  been 
lately  discovered  in  the  vicinity,  about  30  feet  from  the  surface, 
whic  h,  from  its  strength,  promises  to  he  valuable.  . 

Carljle  is  settled  by  an  enterprising  and  industrious  popula¬ 
tion,  and  already  contains  100  houses.  It  was  incorporated  in 
1819,  under  the  government  of  seven  trustees.  Washington 
academy,  in  this  place,  is  under  the  direction  of  seven  trustees, 
and  is  in  a  very  flourishing  situation.  The  public  road 
from  Vincennes  to  St.  Louis,  passes  through  this  place,  as  also 
that  from  Shawneetovvn,  the  Saline,  and  the  ferries  on  the  lower 
Ohio,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  Varidalia  and  the  Sangamo 
country.  The  intersection  of  these  roads  from  different  parts  of 
the  country  frequently  gives  it  an  appearance  of  life  and  busi¬ 
ness  rarely  to  be  seen  in  a  place  so  remote  from  commerce  and 
trade.  The  distance  from  this  place  to  St.  Louis  is  60  miles — 
from  Vandalia  35  south. 


Carmi,  an  incorporated  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of 
White  countv.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  ofthe  Little  Wa- 
bash  river,  about  l'0  miles  above  its  mouth,  nearly  in  the  centre 
of  the  county.  It  is  surrounded  by  lands  of  good  quality. 

Carmi  is  in  lat.  33°  5'  N.  80  miles  southeast  of  Vandalia. 

Carroltoiiy  the  seat  of  justice  of  Greene  county,  laid  out  in  1821, 
on  a  prairie  between  the  timber  ofthe  Apple  creek  and  Ma-qua- 
pin,  in  township  10  north,  in  range  12,  west  of  the  3d  principal 
meridian.  The  surrounding  country  is  very  fertile,  and  is  rapidly 
increasing  iti  population.  The  prairie  west  of  tlm  town  is  low 
and  wet,  hut  with  little  expense  could  be  completely  drained. 

13 


98 


GAZETTEER  OP  ILLINOIS* 


Cash  river ,  a  navigable  stream  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
state.  It  rises  in  the  northei  n  parts  of  Johnson  and  Union  coun¬ 
ties,  near  the  third  principal  meridian,  runs  a  south  course  about 
20  miles  ;  then  turns  to  the  southeast,  and  continues  in  that 
direction  until  it  empties  into  the  Ohio  seven  or  eight  miles  above 
its  mouth.  Previous  to  its  turning  to  the  southeast,  it  approach¬ 
es  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  Mississippi,  several  miles 
above  the  junction  of  the  Ohio.  At  this  place  it  is  contemplated 
to  unite  the  Cash  and  Mississippi,  by  means  of  a  canal.  This  will 
be  a  considerable  saving  of  distance,  and  the  means  of  avoiding 
the  disagreeable  navigation  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  This 
stream  was  declared  navigable  by  the  legislature  of  the  state, 
from  its  mouth  to  the  junction  of  its  two  main  forks,  in  township 
13  south,  in  range  3,  east  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  The 
obj  ect  of  this  is  to  prevent  its  being  obstructed  by  mill  dams. — 
It  is,  however,  only  navigable  about  12  or  15  miles. 

Cash  river  is  about  30  miles  in  length  ;  receives  several  tribu¬ 
taries,  on  one  of  which,  Big  creek,  iron  ore  of  a  good  quality 
has  been  found. 

Cave  Creek ,  rises  in  the  southern  part  of  Gallatin  county,  and 
empties  into  the  Ohio,  12  miles  below  Saline  creek.  It  is  a  very 
inconsiderable  stream. 

Cave  in  Itock. — This  natural  curiosity  is  to  be  seen  on  the 
Ohio  river,  30  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash.  It  is  a 
large  cave,  called  by  the  Indians,  the  habitation  of  the  Great 
Spirit.”  'Pbe  following  description  was  taken  on  the  spot  by  a 
gentleman  of  observation.*  “  For  about  3  or  4  miles  before 
you  come  to  this  place,  you  are  presented  with  a  scene  truly  ro¬ 
mantic.  On  the  Illinois  side  of  the  river,  you  see  large  ponderous 
rocks  piled  one  upon  another,  of  different  colours,  shapes  and  si¬ 
zes  Some  appear  to  have  gone  through  the  hands  of  the  most 
skilful  artist  ;  some  represent  the  ruins  of  ancient  edifices  ;  oth¬ 
ers  thrown  promiscuously  in  and  out  of  the  river,  as  if  nature 
intended  to  show  us  with  what  ease  she  could  handle  those  moun¬ 
tains  of  solid  ro<k.  In  some  places,  you  see  purling  streams 
winding  their  course  dow  n  their  rugged  front ;  while  in  others, 

*  Set- Journal  of  a  tour  into  the  territory  northwest  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  made  in  the 
spring  of  1803,  » itb  a  geographical  and  historical  account  of  thestate  of  Ohio. by  Tbaddeus  M.  Har¬ 
ris,  A.  M  Boston,  1805, 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  99 

the  rorks  project  so  far,  that  they  seem  almost  disposed  to  leave 
their  doubtful  situations  After  a  short  relief  from  this  scene, 
you  come  to  a  second,  which  is  something  similar  to  the  first  ; 
and  here,  with  strict  scrutiny,  you  can  discover  the  ca\e.  Be¬ 
fore  its  mouth  stands  a  delightful  grove  of  cypress  trees,  arran¬ 
ged  immediately  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  They  have  a  fine  ap¬ 
pearance,  and  add  much  to  the  cheerfulness  of  the  place.  The 
mouth  of  the  cave  is  hut  a  few'  feet  above  the  ordinary  level  of 
the  river,  and  is  formed  by  a  semicircular  arch  of  about  80  feet 
at  its  base,  and  25  feet  in  height,  the  top  projecting  considera¬ 
bly  over,  forming  a  regular  conca\e.  From  the  entrance  to  the 
extremity,  which  is  about  180  feet,  it  has  a  regular  and  gradual 
ascent.  On  either  side  is  a  solid  bench  of  rock  ;  the  arch  com¬ 
ing  to  a  point  about  the  middle  of  the  ca\e,  where  you  discover 
an  opening  sufficiently  large  to  receive  the  body  of  a  man,  through 
which  comes  a  small  stream  of  tine  water,  made  use  of  by  those 
who  visit  this  place.  From  this  hole,  a  second  cave  is  discover¬ 
ed,  whose  dimensions,  form,  &c.  are  not  known.  The  rock  is 
of  limestone.  The  sides  of  the  cave  are  covered  with  inscrip¬ 
tions,  names  of  persons,  dates,  &c.”  In  1797,  this  cave  was  the 
rendezvous  of  Mason’s  gang  of  robbers,  w  ho  plundered  and  mur¬ 
dered  the  crews  of  boats  descending  the  Ohio.  It  still  serves 
as  a  temporary  abode  for  those  wanting  shelter,  in  case  of  ship¬ 
wreck,  or  other  accidents,  which  frequently  happen  to  emi¬ 
grants.  Families  have  been  known  to  reside  here  for  a  con¬ 
siderable  length  of  time.  The  trees  which  formerly  sheltered 
the  mouth  of  this  cave,  have  been  cut  down,  and  it  is  now  com¬ 
pletely  exposed  to  view.  The  limestone,  which  forms  its  walls, 
abounds  with  shells ,  at  once  pointing  out  its  secondary  char¬ 
acter. 

Although  this  cave  is  inferior  to  many  others  on  the  Illinois 
and  Mississippi,  it  is  well  worthy  the  attention  ot  the  curious 
and  scientific. 

Cedar  creek,  a  small  stream  of  Jackson  and  Union  counties. 
It  runs  a  northwest  course,  and  empties  into  Big  Muddy  river, 
in  section  11,  of  township  10  south,  in  range  5,  west  oi  the  third 

principal  meridian. 

Cedar  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Pike  county,  runs  a  westerly 


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TOPOGRAPHICj 

the  rocks  project  so  far] 
their  doubtful  situations! 
you  come  to  a  second, 
and  here,  with  strict  s cH 
fore  its  mouth  stands  a  dl 
ged  immediately  on  the  b;l 
pearance,  and  add  much 
mouth  of  the  cave  is  hut  a 
the  river,  and  is  formed  by 
at  its  base,  and  25  feet  in  lie! 
bly  over,  forming  a  regular  cd 
extremity,  which  is  about  180 
ascent.  On  either  side  is  a  solid 
ing  to  a  point  about  the  middle  ol 
an  opening  sufficiently  large  to  recel 
which  comes  a  small  stream  of  line  \va! 
who  visit  this  place.  From  this  hole,  a  sec< 
ed,  whose  dimensions,  form,  &c.  are  not  known!* 
of  limestone.  The  sides  of  the  cave  arc  covered  wi 
tions.  names  of  persons,  dates,  &c.”  In  1797,  this  cavi 
rendezvous  of  Mason’s  gang  of  robbers,  who  plundered  and1 
dered  the  crews  of  boats  descending  the  Ohio.  It  still  ser 
as  a  temporary  abode  for  those  wanting  shelter,  in  case  of  ship^ 
wreck,  or  other  accidents,  which  frequently  happen  to  emi¬ 
grants.  Families  have  been  know  n  to  reside  here  for  a  con¬ 
siderable  length  of  time.  The  trees  which  formerly  sheltered 
the  mouth  of  this  cave,  ha\e  been  cut  down,  and  it  is  now  com¬ 
pletely  exposed  to  view.  The  limestone,  which  forms  its  walls, 
abounds  with  shells ,  at  once  pointing  out  its  secondary  char¬ 
acter. 

Although  this  cave  is  inferior  to  many  others  on  the  Illinois 

n 

and  Mississippi,  it  is  well  worthy  the  attention  ot  the  curious 
and  scientific. 


Cedar  creek,  j i  small  stream  of  Jackson  and  Union  counties. 
It  runs  a  northwest  course,  and  empties  into  Big  Muddy  river, 
insertion  11,  of  township  10  south,  in  range  3,  west  ot  the  third 
principal  meridian. 

Cedar  creek,  a  small  stream  of  Pike  county,  runs  a  westerly 


LLINOIS. 

&ver  on  the  left  side,  15 

5>r  bayou  of  the  Mississip- 
“  sloo  ”  It  extends  from 
ontinues  through  the  allu- 
river,  to  the  uppei  part  of 
es  in  length.  fHie  Ian  is  in 
uhjet  t  to  annual  inundations 

•  y.  situated  on  Lake  Michigan, 
contains  12  or  15  houses*  and 
fi'oin  this  place  to  Green  Bay,  hy 
e  is  27 5  miles,  and  400  to  the  isl- 
>n  the  south  side  of  the  creek  stands 
"country  around  Chicago  is  the  most  fertile 
[Tran  be  imagined.  It  consists  of  an  intermix- 
sand  prairies,  diversified  with  gentle  slopes,  some- 
lining  the  elevation  of  hills,  and  irrigated  with  a  num- 
ar  streams  and  rivers,  which  throw  their  waters  part- 
fro  Lake  Michigan,  and  partly  into  the  Mississippi  river. — . 
a  farming  country,  it  unites  the  fertile  soil  of  the  finest  low¬ 
land  prairies,  with  an  elevation,  which  exempts  it  from  the  influ¬ 
ence  of  stagnant  waters,  and  a  summer  climate  of  delightful  se¬ 
renity  ;  while  its  natural  meadows  present  all  the  advantages  for 
raising  stock,  of  the  most  favored  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi.  It  is  already  the  seat  of  several  flourishing  plantations, 
and  only  requires  the  extinguishment  of  the  Indian  title  to  the 
lands,  to  become  one  of  the  most  attractive  lields  for  the  emi¬ 
grant.  To  the  ordinary  advantages  of  an  agricultural  mar  ket 
town,  it  must  hereafter  add  that  of  a  depot  for  the  inland  com¬ 
merce,  between  the  northern  and  southern  sections  of  the  union, 
and  a  great  thoroughfare  for  strangers,  merchants  and  travel¬ 
lers.”  (Schoolcraft  s  Travels.) 


Chicago  creek,  an  arm  of  Lake  Michigan,  dividing  itself  into 
two  branches  at  the  distance  of  one  mile  inland  from  its  commu¬ 
nication  with  the  lake.  The  north  branch  extends  along  the 
west  side  of  the  lake  \  is  about  10  or  11  miles  in  length,  and  is 


UNIVERSITY  Of?  -v, 
ILLINOIS  LIBRARY 

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100 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


course,  ami  empties  into  Henderson  river  on  the  left  side,  15 
miles  above  its  mouth. 

Chenail-ecarte,  ( Snicarty ,)  an  arm  or  bayou  of  the  Mississip¬ 
pi,  in  Pike  county,  commonly  called  a**  sloo ”  It  extends  from 
the  middle  of  township  3  south,  and  continues  through  the  allu¬ 
vion,  from  one  to  four  miles  from  the  river,  to  the  uppei  part  of 
township  8  south.  It  is  about  40  miles  in  length.  The  lands  in 
the  vicinity  are  first  rate,  but  are  subject  to  annual  inundations 
from  the  river. 

Chicago,  a  village  in  Pike  county,  situated  on  Lake  Michigan, 
at  the  mouth  of  Chicago  creek.  It  contains  12  or  15  houses,  and 
about  60  or  70  inhabitants.  From  this  place  to  Green  Bay,  by 
the  way  of  the  lake,  the  distance  is  275  miles,  and  400  to  the  isl¬ 
and  of  Mb  hillimackinac.  On  the  south  side  of  the  creek  stands 
Fort  Dearborn.  “  The  country  around  Chicago  is  the  most  fertile 
and  beautiful  that  can  be  imagined  It  consists  of  an  intermix¬ 
ture  of  woods  and  prairies,  diversified  with  gentle  slopes,  some¬ 
times  attaining  the  tdevation  of  hills,  and  irrigated  with  a  num¬ 
ber  of  clear  streams  and  rivers,  w  hich  throw  their  wafers  part- 
ly  into  Lake  Michigan,  and  partly  into  the  Mississippi  river.— 
As  a  farming  country,  it  unites  the.  fertile  soil  of  the  finest  low¬ 
land  prairies,  with  an  elevation,  which  exempts  itfromtbe  influ¬ 
ence  of  stagnant  waters,  and  a  summer  climate  of  delightful  se¬ 
renity  ;  while  its  natural  meadows  present  all  the  advantages  for 
raising  stock,  of  the  most  favored  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi.  It  is  already  the  seat  of  several  flourishing  plantations, 
and  only  requires  the  extinguishment  of  the  Indian  title  to  the 
lands,  to  become  one  of  the  most  attractive  fields  for  the  emi¬ 
grant.  *To  the  ordinary  advantages  of  an  agricultural  market 
town,  it  must  hereafter  add  that  of  a  depot  for  the  inland  .  om- 
merce,  between  the  northern  and  southern  sections  of  the  union, 
and  a  great  thoroughfare  for  strangers,  merchants  and  travel¬ 
lers”  (Schoolcraft's  Travels.) 

Chicago  creek ,  an  arm  of  Lake  Michigan,  dividing  itself  into 
two  branches  at  the  distance  of  one  mile  inland  from  its  commu¬ 
nication  with  the  lake  The  north  branch  extends  along  the 
west  side  ot  the  lake;  is  about  10  or  11  miles  in  length,  and  is 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


101 


supplied  from  the  prairies.  The  south  branch  has  an  extent  of 
several  miles,  anil  communicates  with  a  lake.  In  wet  seasons, 
boats  of  considerable  size  pass  from  this  stream  to  the  Des 
Plaines,  ami  thence  down  the  Illinois.  The  entrance  of  the 
Chicago  into  the  lake  is  about  80  yards  wide.  At  present  it 
is  obstructed  by  a  sand-bar,  which  will  only  admit  boats  to 
pass  over  it.  Several  expedients  have  been  proposed  for  re¬ 
moving  this  bar  ;  and  among  the  number,  one  of  the  most  in¬ 
genious,  and  perhaps  the  most  practicable,  is  that  of  turning  the 
Xalamick  river,  by  means  of  a  short  canal,  into  the  Chicago 
above  the  fort,  and  thus,  by  the  increased  volume  of  water,  to 
drive  out  the  sand  which  is  continually  thrown  up  by  the  lake. 
It  is  feared,  however,  that  the  construction  of  a  good  harbour 
will  be  attended  with  much  difficulty  and  expense. 

This  stream  has,  for  nearly  a  century,  been  one  of  the  most 
cotnmou  northern  routes  to  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi.  The 
greatest  proportion  of  the  furs  of  the  northwest  are  conveyed 
through  this  channel  to  the  lower  lakes. 

City  of  Illinois,  see  Illinois  city . 

Clear  creek ,  a  small  stream  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state. 
It  rises  in  Union  county,  and  running  in  a  southerly  direction 
about  25  miles,  empties  into  the  Mississippi  in  the  northern  part 
of  Alexander  county,  40  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio* 
There  are  many  small  branches  emptying  into  it  from  the  east. 

Colesgrove .  a  post  town  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Pike  county. 
It  was  laid  out  in  1821,  and  is  situated  in  township  11  south,  in 
range  2,  west  of  the  fourth  principal  meridian.  Very  little  im¬ 
provement  has  as  yet  been  made  in  this  place,  or  the  vicinity. 
The  situation  ol  the  town  is  high  and  healthy,  and  it  bids  fair 
to  become  a  place  of  some  importance. 

College  township,  5  north,  in  range  1,  west  of  the  3d  principal 
meridian,  6  miles  square,  granted  by  the  United  States  to  this 
state  for  the  support  of  a  seminary  of  learning.  The  northern 
boundary  is  three  miles  below  Vandalia.  It  is  watered  by  the 
Kaskaskia  and  several  of  its  tributaries,  and  is  in  general  first 
rate  land.  It  is  situated  in  Fayette  county. 

By  an  act  passed  in  1821,  the  auditor  of  public  accounts  was 


102 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS, 


authorised  to  lease,  to  any  individuals  apph  mg  for  that  purpose, 
any  of  the  lands  in  tins  township,  upon  the  following  terms,  viz  . 
The  lessee  shall  make  his  entry  either  for  one  hundred  and  sixty 
or  eighty  acres,  as  he  may  choose,  in  a  hook  kept  by  the  audi¬ 
tor  for  that  purpose,  and  shall  have  the  land  the  first  three  years 
free  and  clear  of  all  rents  whatever  ;  and  after  that  time,  shall 
pay  at  the  rate  of  6  per  cent  per  annum,  on  the  quantity  of  land 
he  may  enter,  estimating  the  land  in  every  instance  at  two  dol¬ 
lars  per  acre  :  the  lessee  to  be  bound  to  commit  no  waste  ;  and 
should  he  not  take  possession  within  twelve  months  of  the  date 
of  his  entry,  to  perfect  his  lease,  the  auditor  shall  have  power  to 
distrain  for  rent,  in  the  same  way  that  any  landlord  in  this  state 
could  or  might  do.  Provided ,  however ,  that  no  lease  be  for  a 
longer  term  than  ten  years  ;  and  that  any,  or  all  of  the  lessees 
shall  be  entitled  to  a  credit  out  of  his  rent  for  the  value  thereof, 
if  he  chooses  to  plant  any  apple  trees,  not  exceeding  two  hun¬ 
dred,  upon  any  one  quarter  section  ;  which  he  must  do  to  entitle 
him  to  credit  within  the  first  seven  years  of  his  lease.  The  im¬ 
provements  are  also  bound  for  rent,  and  may  be  sold  therefor. 

Colombo  creek ,  runs  a  southeast  course  through  the  northwest¬ 
ern  part  of  Jackson  county,  and  empties  into  Big  Beaucoup 
creek. 

Columbia ,  a  small  post  town,  and  formerly  the  seat  of  justice 
of  Franklin  county.  It  is  situated  about  three  miles  east  of  Big 
Muddy  river,  in  section  19  of  township  7  south,  in  range  3, 
west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian. 

Copperas  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Pike  county.  It  rises  in 
township  8  north,  in  range  5,  east  of  the  4th  principal  meridian ; 
runs  a  southerly  course,  and  empties  into  the  Illinois  river  in 
section  24  of  township  6  north,  in  range  5,  east  of  the  4th  prin¬ 
cipal  meridian. 

Covington,  an  incorporated  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice 
of  Washington  county,  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Kaskaskia 
river,  in  section  33  of  township  1  north,  in  range  3,  west  of  the 
3d  principal  meridian.  This  place  is  nearly  central  for  the 
county,  and  from  present  appearances  promises  to  become  of 
considerable  importance.  It  is  under  tiie  government  of  five 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OP  TOWNS,  &C. 


103 


% 

trustees.  B>  an  act  of  the  last  legislature,  a  toll  bridge  is  to  be 
built  aerbss  the  ka-  kaskia,  opposite  the  town. 

Covington  is  in  latitude  3b°  25'  north;  50  miles  east-south¬ 
east  of  St.  Louis,  and  45  southwest  of  Vandalia. 

Crooked  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Washington  count v.  It 
rises  in  township  1  north,  in  range  1,  east  of  the  3d  principal 
meridian,  and  running  a  westerly  course,  empties  into  the 
Kaskaskia  river  in  section  2 7  of  township  1  north,  in  range  3, 
west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian. 

Crooked  creek ,  a  navigable  stream  of  the  Illinois  military 
tract,  which,  from  its  length,  deserves  more  properly  the  name 
of  river.  It  rises  by  two  heads  in  township  7  north,  and  after 
their  union,  runs  a  southeasterly  course,  and  empties  into  the 
Ill  inois  river  in  section  15  of  township  l  south,  in  range  1,  west 
of  the  4th  principal  meridian,  100  miles  above  its  junction  with 
the  Mississippi.  The  length  of  this  stream  is  about  100  miles, 
and  it  extends  nearly  the  whole  distance  across  the  tract  The 
lands  Mh  this  stream  are  generally  first  rate,  hut  those  imme¬ 
diately  on  its  banks  are  subject  to  occasional  inundation  It  has 
many  small  tributaries  emptying  into  it  from  the  east  ami  west, 
which  afford  good  mill  seats.  A  short  distance  above  its  mouth 
is  a  very  large  pond,  which  no  doubt  will  be  a  source  of  disease 
to  the.  settlers. — Coal,  iron  ore,  and  fine  freestone  abound  in  the 
banks  of  Crooked  creek. 

Crow  Meadow  river,  a  considerable  stream  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  state.  It  rises  in  the  bills  near  the  head  waters  of  the 
Vermilion  of  the  Wabash,  and  running  a  northwest  course, 
empties  into  the  Illinois  a  short  distance  above  Lake  Peoria. 
It  is  more  than  20  yards  wide  at  its  month,  and  is  navigable 
for  some  distance.  Little  is  as  yet  known  of  the  lands  on  the 
hanks  of  this  stream. 

JDemiquain ,  a  large  lake  emptying  into  the  Illinois  on  the 
east  side,  3  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Spoon  river.  It  is  several 
miles  in  length,  and  from  1  to  2  in  breadth.  In  ascending  the 
Illinois,  it  is  very  common  for  those  who  are  unacquainted  w  ith 
the  navigation,  to  run  up  the  lake  ;  to  avoid  this,  it  is  necessary 
to  keep  close  to  the  west  shore  from  Spoon  river.  At  the  lake, 


104 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


the  river  (urns  to  the  west,  nearly  at  right  angles  with  its  former 
course. 

Des  Plaines ,  see  Riviere  des  Plaines . 

Diamond  Grove ,  a  fine  settlement  in  Greene  county.  It  is 
situated  in  the  centre  of  a  large  prairie,  on  the  head  waters  of 
Mauvaise-terre  creek,  25  miles  from  the  Illinois  river.  The 
grove  is  in  the  form  of  a  diam  md.  The  surrounding  country  is 
beautifully  interspersed  with  prairie  and  woodland  ;  and  its  ad¬ 
vantages  in  point  of  health,  good  water,  fertility,  &c.  are  such  as 
to  insure  to  it  a  dense  population.  St  may  be  considered  as  one 
of  the  most  desirable  tracts  in  the  state. 

Diamond  grove  is  75  miles  northwest  of  Alton,  from  which 
place  there  is  a  public  road.  The  first  settlement  w  as  com¬ 
menced  in  1820. 

Donaldson ,  a  town  in  Washington  county,  one  mile  east  of 
Carlyle.  It  is  laid  out  on  sections  17  and  20,  of  township  2 
north,  in  range  2,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian,  about  2  or 
500  yards  from  the  Kaskaskia  river,  on  an  elevated  Tastern 
bank.  This  town  is  as  yet  liitle  more  than  laid  out  on  paper. 
The  country  in  the  vicinity  is  tolerably  fertile,  but  the  propor¬ 
tion  of  prairie  is  too  great  to  secure  to  it  a  very  dense  popula¬ 
tion.  In  the  vicinity  of  Donaldson  there  is  a  spring,  which  is 
said  to  be  medicinal. 

Ducket  river ,  a  considerable  stream  in  the  northern  part  of 
the  state.  It  empties  into  the  Wabash  river  between  Fort  Har¬ 
rison  and  Tippecanoe  river.  (I  have  noticed  this  stream  upon 
the  authority  of  several  authors,  although  it  is  not  laid  down 
upon  the  survey  of  the  eastern  boundary  line  of  Illinois,  which  it 
must  cross  if  the  above  description  is  correct. 

Du  Page  river ,  see  Riviere  du  Page . 

Eagle  creek ,  see  VJligle  creek . 

Edwards  river ,  a  considerable  stream  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  Illinois  military  tract.  It  rises  in  township  15  north,  in 
range  1,  west  of  the  4th  principal  meridian,  and  running  a  west- 
rly  course  to  the  middle  of  township  14  north,  in  range  5 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


105 


west,  turns  to  the  south,  and  empties  into  the  Mississippi 
on  the  east  side,  in  section  16,  of  township  13  north,  in  range  5 
west  of  the  fourth  principal  meridian.  It  is  navigable  for  a  short 
distance,  and  passes  through  “a  district  of  country  high  and 
undulating,  but  abounding  with  prairies,  which,  in  many  instan¬ 
ces,  are  very  extensive. 

Edwardsville ,  an  incorporated  post  town,  and  the  seat  of 
justice  of  Madison  county.  The  old  town  was  laid  out  in  1815, 
on  a  branch  of  the  Cahokia  creek,  in  sections  2,  3  and  11,  of 
township  4  north,  in  range  8,  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian, 
and  20  miles  northeast  of  St.  Louis.  It  contains  a  court  house,  a 
jail,  a  land  office,  a  brick  market,  and  about  60  or  70  dwelling 
houses.  The  inhabitants  are  generally  enterprising  and  indus¬ 
trious.  In  the  vicinity,  is  a  grist  mill,  on  the  branch  of 
the  Cahokia  creek.  The  growth  of  this  place  has  been  very  ra¬ 
pid,  and  it  bids  fair  to  become  an  important  inland  town.  The 
new  town  was  laid  out  about  three  or  four  years  since,  and  be¬ 
ing  principally  owned  by  a  few  wealthy  individuals,  it  flourish¬ 
ed  considerably.  Here  is  a  bank,  and  a  printing  office,  from 
which  is  issued  a  weekly  paper,  entitled  the  “  Edwardsville 
Spectator.”  A  great  rivalship  exists  between  the  inhabitants 
of  these  towns,  which,  though  it  may  have  been  a  temporary 
advantage,  will  finally  be  an  injury  to  both. 

The  local  situation  of  Edwardsville  is  pleasant.  It  is  on  the 
highlands,  which  bound  the  American  bottom,  and  the  centre  of 
a  fertile  and  healthy  country,  well  watered  and  timbered,  and 
gently  undulating,  presenting  at  once  to  the  agriculturalist  the 
most  desirable  place  for  settlement.  It  would  be  useless  to  ob¬ 
serve  that  this  country  is  rapidly  settling  with  frugal  and  indus¬ 
trious  farmers.  In  the  vicinity,  many  plantations  have  been 
opened  by  persons  residing  in  the  town,  who  find  it  much  to  their 
advantage  to  devote  a  paid  of  their  attention  to  agriculture. 

Edwardsville  is  in  latitude  38°  45'  north,  50  miles  east-south¬ 
east  ofVandalia. 

Elkheart  grove,  a  fine  settlement  of  Sangamon  county,  in 
township  17  north,  in  range  5,  w  est  of  the  third  principal  merid¬ 
ian,  between  Saline  creek  and  the  Sangamo  river.  The  grove. 

14 


106 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


contains  about  1000  acres  of  the  finest  timber  ;  it  is  considera¬ 
bly  elevated  above  the  surrounding  prairie,  and  is  already  thick¬ 
ly  settled.  The  surrounding  country,  for  some  distance,  is  gen¬ 
erally  interspersed  with  prairies  and  woodland  ;  high,  undulat¬ 
ing,  healthy  and  well- watered,  and  for  farming  purposes,  can¬ 
not  be  excelled. 

Elkhorn  creek,  a  small  stream  of  Washington  county.  It  ri¬ 
ses  in  township  3  south,  in  range  4,  west  of  the  third  principal 
meridian,  and  running  a  northwest  course  about  20  miles, 
empties  into  the  Kaskaskia  on  the  left  side,  in  section  30,  of 
township  1  south,  in  range  5,  west  of  the  third  principal  merid¬ 
ian. 

Ellison* s  prairie ,  a  beautiful  prairie,  situated  between  the  Em- 
barras  and  Wabash  rivers,  and  containing  a  large  and  flou¬ 
rishing  settlement.  Jt  is  surrounded  by  a  belt  of  the  finest  tim¬ 
ber. 

Elvira ,  a  town  of  Union  county,  situated  on  Cash  river. 

Embarr as  river,  fEmbroy.J  a  navigable  stream  in  the  east¬ 
ern  part  of  the  state.  It  rises  in  Clark  county,  near  the  sources 
of  the  Kaskaskia  and  Little  Wabash  rivers,  and  running  a 
southeast  course,  empties  into  the  Wabash  on  the  west  side, 
5  miles  below  Vincennes.  ri  he  banks  of  this  stream  are  low 
and  subject  to  inundations,  but  heavily  timbered  and  fertile. 
There  are  many  valuable,  mill-seats  on  the  Euibarras  and  its 
tributaries. 

Fairfield,  a  small  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Wayne 
county.  It  has  been  but  recently  laid  out,  and  contains  as  yet 
but  few  inhabitants. 

Feve  river ,  see  Bean  river. 

Fort  Chartres ,  a  large  stone  fort,  built  by  the  French  while 
in  possession  of  the  Illinois  country.  It  is  situated  about  a  half 
mile  east  of  the  Mississippi  river,  six  miles  above  the  village  of 
Prairie  du  Roeher,  and  about  a  mile  west  of  the  bottom  road 
from  St.  Louis  to  Kaskaskia.  It  is  unquestionably  among  the 
most  astonishing  works  of  art  in  our  country. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


107 


This  fai  t  was  originally  built  by  the  French  in  the  year  1720, 
to  defend  themselves  against  the  Spaniards — about  the  same 
time  that  New-Orleans  was  founded.  In  1756  it  was  rebuilt  in 
its  present  form. 

The  only  particular  description  of  this  fort  which  I  have  been 
able  to  find,  is  contained  in  Capt.  Pittman’s  history  of  the  Eu¬ 
ropean  settlements  on  the  Mississippi,  published  in  1770.  it  is 
as  follows  : 

“  Fort  Chartres,  when  it  belonged  to  France,  was  the  seat  of 
government  of  the  Illinois.  The  head  quarters  of  the  English 
commanding  officer  is  now  here,  who  in  fact  is  the  arbitrary  go¬ 
vernor  of  this  country.  The  fort  is  an  irregular  quadrangle  ; 
the  sides  of  the  exterior  polygon  are  490  feet.  It  is  built  of 
stone,  and  plastered  over,  and  is  only  designed  as  a  defence 
against  the  Indians.  The  walls  are  two  feet  two  inches  thick, 
and  are  pierced  with  loop-holes  at  regular  distances,  and  with  two 
port  holes  for  cannon  in  the  faces,  and  tw7o  in  the  flanks  of  each 
bastion.  The  ditch  has  never  been  finished.  The  entrance  to  the 
fort  is  through  a  very  handsome  rustic  gate.  Within  the  walls 
is  a  banquette  raised  three  feet,  for  the  men  to  stand  on  when 
they  fire  through  the  loop-holes.  The  buildings  within  the  fort 
are,  a  commandant’s  ami  commissary’s  house,  the  magazine  of 
stores,  corps  de  garde,  and  two  barracks  ;  the.se  occupy  the 
square.  Within  the  gorges  of  the  bastion  are  a  pow  der  maga¬ 
zine.  a  bake-house,  and  a  prison,  in  the  lower  floor  of  which  are 
four  dungeons,  and  in  the  upper,  two  rooms,  and  an  out  house 
belonging  to  the  commandant.  The  commandant’s  house  is 
thirty-two  yards  long  and  ten  broad,  and  contains  a  kitchen,  a 
dining-room,  a  bed-chamber,  one  small  room,  five  closets  for 
servants,  and  a  cellar.  The  commissary’s  house  (now  occupie  d 
b)  officers)  is  built  on  the  same  linens  this, and  its  proportion  and 
the  distribution  of  its  apartments  are  the  same.  Opposite  these 
are  the  store-house  and  guard-house  ;  they  are  each  thirty  yards 
long  and  eight  broad.  The  former  consists  of  two  large  sho  e- 
rooms,  (under  which  is  a  large  vaulted  cellar,)  a  large  room,  a 
bed-chamber,  and  a  closet  for  the  store  keeper  ;  the  latter,  of  a 
soldier  s’  and  officers’  guard-room,  a  chapel,  a  bed-chamber,  a 
closet  for  the  chaplain,  and  an  artillery  store-room.  The  lines 
of  barracks  have  never  been  finished  ;  they  at  present  consist 


108 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


of  two  rooms  each  for  officers,  and  three  for  soldiers  :  they  are 
each  twenty  feet  square,  and  have  betwixt  them  a  small  passage. 
There  are  fine  spacious  lofts  over  each  building,  which  reach 
from  end  to  end  ;  these  are  made  use  of  to  lodge  regimental 
stores,  working  and  intrenching  tools,  &c.  It  is  generally  be¬ 
lieved  that  this  is  the  most  convenient  and  best  built  fort  in 
North  America.” 

Such  was  this  fort  half  a  century  since.  Since  it  was  first 
erected,  several  changes  have  taken  place  in  the  channel  of  the 
Mississippi,  which  it  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  notice. 

Father  Charlevoix,  who  visited  the  Mississippi  in  1721,  ob¬ 
serves,  that “  Fort  Chartres  stands  about  the  distance  of  a  mus¬ 
ket  shot  from  the  river  ;  and  that  M.  Duque  de  Boisbrillard,  a 
gentleman  of  Canada,  commands  here  for  the  company,  to  whom 
this  place  belongs.” 

In  1756,  it  was  a  half  mile  from  the  water  side  ;  in  1766,  it 
was  but  eighty  paces.  In  1770,  Capt.  Pittman  observes,  “  the 
hank  of  the  Mississippi  is  continually  falling  in,  being  worn 
aw  ay  by  the  current,  which  has  been  turned  from  its  course  by  a 
sand-bank,  now  increased  to  a  considerable  island,  covered  with 
willows.  Eight  years  ago  the  river  was  fordable  to  the  island  ; 
the  channel  is  now  forty  feet  deep.”  After  this  time  the  river 
was  gradually  making  encroachments,  and  about  1772,  it  in¬ 
undated  its  banks,  and  formed  a  channel  so  near  the  fort,  that 
one  side  of  it,  and  two  of  its  bastions  were  thrown  down,  which 
circumstance  induced  the  British  to  abandon  it.  Since  its  aban¬ 
donment,  a  bar  has  again  been  formed  in  front  of  the  fort,  near¬ 
ly  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  is  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of 
cotton  wood  and  willows. 

At.  present  this  work  exhibits  only  a  splendid  ruin.  The  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  as  before  stated,  has,  by  its  encroachments,  torn  away 
the  front  or  w  est  face,  and  those  parts  of  the  wall  which  have  es¬ 
caped,  have  been  destroyed  by  the  neighboring  inhabitants. 
In  front,  all  that  remains,  is  a  small  stone  cellar,  w  hich  has  no 
doubt  been  a  magazine  :  some  distance  above,  or  north 
of  this,  is  an  excavation  in  the  earth,  which  has  the  appearance 
of  having  been  burned  ;  it  may  have  been  a  furnace  for  heating 
shot,  as  one  of  the  cannon  must  have  been  in  this  vicinity.  Not 
a  vestige  of  the  wall  is  to  be  seen  on  this  side,  except  a  few 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OP  TOWNS,  &C.  109 

stones,  which  still  remain  in  the  ravine  below.  At  the  south¬ 
east  angle  there  is  a  gate,  and  the  wall  is  perfect.  It  is  about  fif¬ 
teen  feet  high  and  three  feet  thick,  and  is  built  of  coarse  lime¬ 
stone,  quarried  in  the  hills  about  two  miles  distant,  and  is  well 
cemented.  The  south  side  is,  with  few  exceptions,  perfect; 
as  is  also  the  southeast  bastion.  The  northeast  is  generally 
in  ruins.  On  the  east  face  are  two  port  holes  for  cannon, 
which  are  still  perfect  ;  they  are  about  three  feet  square, 
formed  by  solid  rocks  or  clefts  worked  smooth,  and  into  proper 
shape  ;  here  is  also  a  large  gate,  18  feet  wide,  the  sides  of  which 
still  remain  in  a  state  of  tolerable  preservation  ;  the  cornices 
and  casements,  however,  which  formerly  ornamented  it,  have 
all  been  taken  away.  A  considerable  portion  of  the  north  side 
of  the  fort,  has  also  been  destroyed. 

The  houses,  which  make  up  the  square  in  the  inside,  are  gen¬ 
erally  in  ruins.  Sufficient,  however,  remains  to  enable  the  visit¬ 
or  to  ascertain  exactly  their  dimensions  and  relative  situations. 
The  well,  which  is  little  injured  by  time,  is  about  twenty-four 
feet  north  of  the  northeast  house,  which,  according  to  Pittman, 
was  the  commandant’s  house.  The  banquette  is  entirely  destroy¬ 
ed.  The  magazine  is  in  a  perfect  state,  and  is  an  uncommon 
specimen  of  solidity.  Its  wails  are  four  feet  thick,  and  it  is  arch¬ 
ed  in  the  inside. 

Over  the  whole  fort,  there  is  a  considerable  growth  of  trees, 
and  in  the  hall  of  one  of  the  houses,  there  is  an  oak  about  eigh¬ 
teen  inches  in  diameter 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  fort  are  the  ruins  of  a  small  village.  In 
1764,  it  contained  about  forty  families,  and  also  a  parish  church, 
dedicated  to  St.  Anne,  and  served  by  a  Franciscan  friar.  When 
the  English  took  possession  of  the  country,  they  all  abandoned 
their  houses,  except  three  or  four  poor  fainiles,  and  settled  in  the 
villages  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi,  choosing  to  con¬ 
tinue  under  the  French  government. 

The  history  of  this  fort  is  interesting,  as  it  is  intimately  con¬ 
nected  with  the  early  history  of  the  country. 

Ever  since  the  discovery  of  Louisiana  by  the  French,  it  ap¬ 
pears  to  have  been  a  favourite  object  with  them  to  secure  a  com¬ 
munication  between  the  Canadas  and  the  sea.  As  soon  as  the 
Spaniards  became  aware  of  their  designs,  and  the  vast  import 


110 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


ance  which  (he  country  thus  secured  would  be  to  them,  they  be¬ 
came  jealous  of  their  neighbours,  and  began  to  make  encroach¬ 
ments  upon  them,  and  as  early  as  the  year  1699,  they  attempt¬ 
ed  to  prevent  the  landing  of  M.  D’Iberville,  with  his  colony  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi. 

It  was  not,  however,  until  after  the  grant  made  by  Louis  XIV- 
to  Crozat  had  been  retroceded,  and  the  celebrated  company  of 
the  west  formed,  that  the  possession  of  Louisiana  excited  such 
lively  interest.  When  it  was  supposed  that  the  precious  metals 
were  to  be  found  here  in  abundance,  then  it  was  that  the  eyes  of  all 
the  speculating  capitalists  of  Europe  w ere  turned  to  the  new  world. 
They  seized  with  avidity  an  opportunity  to  enrol  themselves  as 
members  of  the  company,  and  partake  of  the  promised  wealth. 
Under  the  direction  and  management  of  M.  Law,  whose  genius, 
talents  and  influence  were  of  the  highest  order,  each  supposed 
that  his  coffers  were  already  filled,  and  his  happiness  complete* 

It  was  during  this  paroxysm,  that  the  establishment  of  Fort 
Chartres  was  first  projected.  It  was  considered  an  advanta¬ 
geous  site,  being  in  the  centre  of  the  settlements  ;  but  more  par¬ 
ticularly  as  being  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mines,  which  they  sup¬ 
posed  would  need  protection  and  defence.  It  continued  under 
the  direction  of  the  company  until  1731,  when  their  splendid 
schemes  having  totally  failed,  this,  together  with  the  whole  ter¬ 
ritory,  was  retroceded  to  the  crown,  and  continued  in  its  pos¬ 
session  until  the  year  1762,  when  it  was  ceded  to  the  British, 
who,  however,  did  not  take  possession  of  it  until  1765.  In  1772, 
Fort  Chartres  was  abandoned  by  the  British,  and  has  never 
since  been  occupied.  At  present,  its  only  use  is  to  furnish  buil¬ 
ding  materials  to  the  inhabitants  in  the  vicinity. 

Annexed  is  a  plan  of  the  fort,  drawn  from  a  survey  made  by 
N.  Hansen,  Esq.  of  Illinois,  and  myself,  in  1820. 

aaaaaaaaa  The  exterior  wall — 1447  feet. 
e  T  he  gate  or  entrance  to  the  fort, 
c  A  small  gate. 

dd  The  two  houses  formerly  occupied  by  the  commandant  and 
commissary,  each  96  feet  in  length,  and  30  in  breadth. 
e  The  well. 
f  The  magazine. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


11 J 


gggg  Houses  formerly  occupied  as  barracks,  135  feet  in  length, 
36  in  breadth. 

mi  Formerly  occupied  as  a  store  house  and  guard  house,  90 
feet  by  24. 

i  The  remains  of  a  small  magazine. 
k  The  remains  of  a  furnace. 

ill  A  ravine,  whirl)  in  the  spring,  is  filled  with  water.  Be¬ 
tween  this  and  the  river,  which  is  about  half  a  mile,  is 
a  thick  growth  of  cotton  wood. 

The  area  of  the  fort  is  about  four  square  acres. 

Fort  Ctark9  see  Peoria . 

Fort  Dearborn ,  a  military  post  on  the  south  shore  of  Chicago 
creek,  4  or  500  yards  from  its  entrance  into  Lake  Michigan — 
consisting  of  a  square  stockade,  inclosing  barracks,  quarters  for 
the  officers,  a  magazine,  provision-store,  &c.  and  defended  by 
bastions  at  the  northwest  and  southeast  angles.  Its  situation  is 
high  and  pleasant;  and  should  the  canal  be  completed  between 
the  lake  and  the  Illinois  river,  this  must  become  a  place  of  con¬ 
siderable  consequence,  being  the  only  good  town  site  on  the 
margin  of  the  lake  for  several  miles.  It  is  at  present  occupied 
by  a  hundred  and  sixty  men,  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Bradford.  It  is  63  miles  due  west  from  the  St.  Joseph  of  the 
lakes,  and  by  the  meanders  of  the  south  limb  of  the  lake,  99 
miles,  according  to  the  survey  of  Major  Whistler. 

This  fort  was  abandoned  in  1812,  in  consequence  of  the  dis¬ 
graceful  surrender  of  Gen.  Hull.  A  great  number  of  the  troops 
shortly  after  leaving  the  fort,  were  inhumanly  murdered  by  the 
savages,  who  lay  in  ambush  on  the  margin  of  the  lake.  The 
follow  ing  account  of  this  affair  is  extracted  from  M’Afee’s  his¬ 
tory  of  the  late  war  in  the  western  country.  “  On  the  morning 
of  the  15th  (Aug.)  at  sunrise,  the  troops,  consisting  of  about  70 
men,  with  some  women  and  children,  marched  from  the  fort* 
with  pack  horses  in  the  centre, and  Capt,  Wells  with  his  Indians 
in  the  rear.  They  had  proceeded  about  a  mile  from  the  fort? 
w  hen  the  front  guard  w  as  fired  on  by  the  savages,  w  ho  were  pos¬ 
ted  behind  a  sandbank  on  the  margin  of  the  lake,  and  in  a  skirt 
of  woods  w  hi(  h  the  party  was  approaching,  the  rest  of  the  coun¬ 
try  around  them  being  an  open  prairie.  At  the  same  time  they 


112 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


saw  a  body  of  Indians  passing  to  their  rear,  to  cutoff  their  re¬ 
treat,  to  the  fort.  rI  he  firing  now  became  general*  and  the 
troops  seeing  nothing  but  death  and  massacre  before  them,  form¬ 
ed  in  line  of  battle,  and  returned  the  fire  of  the  enemy  with  much 
bravery  and  success,  as  they  slowly  retreated  in  the  prairie.— 
The  Indians  made  several  desper  ate  efforts  to  rush  up  and  tom¬ 
ahawk  them  ;  but  every  charge  was  repulsed  by  the  firmness  of 
the  troops,  who  fought  with  desperation,  determined  to  sell  their 
lives  as  dear  as  possible.  Capt.  W ells  being  killed,  his  Indians 
retired  from  the  party  and  joined  the  others.  Several  women 
and  children  were  also  killed  ;  and  our  ranks  were  at  last  so  re¬ 
duced.  as  scarcely  to  exceed  twenty  effective  men  :  yet  they  con¬ 
tinued  resolute,  and  stuck  together,  resolved  to  fight  while  one 
remained  able  to  fire.  But  the  Indians  now  withdrew  some  dis¬ 
tance,  and  sent  a  small  French  boy  to  demand  a  surrender.  The 
boy  was  Capt.  Heald’s  interpreter,  who  had  run  off  to  the  In¬ 
dians  at  the  commencement  of  the  action.  He  advanced  cau¬ 
tiously  ;  and  Mr.  Griffith,  who  was  afterwards  a  lieutenant  in  a 
company  of  spies,  in  Col.  Johnson’s  regiment  from  Kentucky, 
advanced  to  meet  him,  intending  to  kill  him  for  his  perfidy.  But 
the  boy  declared,  that  it  was  the  only  way  he  had  to  save  his 
life,  and  appeared  sorry  that  he  had  been  obliged  to  act  in  that 
manner.  He  then  made  known  his  business  ;  the  Indians  pro¬ 
posed  to  spare  the  lives  of  our  men,  provided  they  would  surren¬ 
der.  The  proposal  being  made  known  to  the  surviving  soldiers, 
they  unanimously  determined  to  reject  it.  The  boy  returned 
with  this  answer  to  the  Indians  ;  but  in  a  short  time  he  came 
back,  and  entreated  Mr.  Griffith  to  use  his  influence  with  Capt 
Heald,  to  make  him  surrender,  as  the  Indians  were  very  nume¬ 
rous.  The  captain,  his  lady,  and  Mr.  Griffith,  were  all  wound¬ 
ed.  He  at  last  consented  to  surrender  ;  and  the  troops  having 
laid  down  their  arms,  the  Indians  advanced  to  receive  them  ? 
and  notwithstanding  their  promises,  they  now  perfidiously  toma¬ 
hawked  three  or  four  of  the  men.  One  Indian  with  the  fury  of  a 
demon  in  his  countenance,  advanced  to  Mrs.  Heald,  with  his  tom¬ 
ahawk  drawn.  She  had  been  accustomed  to  danger  ;  and  knowing 
the  temper  of  the  Indians,  with  great  presence  of  mind,  she  look¬ 
ed  him  in  the  face,  and  smiling,  said,  “  Surely  you  would  not 
kill  a  squaw.”  His  arm  fell  nerveless  ;  the  conciliating  smile  of 


T0POGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &G.  113 

an  innocent  female,  appealing  to  the  magnanimity  of  a  warrior, 
reached  the  heart  of  the  savage,  and  subdued  the  barbarity  of 
his  soul.  He  immediately  took  the  lady  under  his  protection. — 
She  was  the  daughter  of  Gen.  Samuel  Wells,  of  Kentucky.  The 
head  of  Capt.  Wells  was  cut  off,  and  his  heart  was  cut  out  and 
eaten  by  the  savages.  - 

The  Indians  having  divided  their  prisoners,  as  usual  in  such 
cases,  it  was  the  fate  of  Capt.  Heald,  his  lady,  and  Mr.  Griffith, 
to  be  taken  by  the  Ottawas  on  the  lake  beyond  the  mouth  of  the 
river  St.  Joseph.  Their  wounds  being  severe,  they  looked  upon 
destruction  as  inevitable  ;  but  Heaven  often  smiles  when  we 
least  expect  it.  Griffith  had  observed  a  canoe,  which  was  large 
enough  to  carry  them  ;  and  they  contrived  to  escape  in  it  by 
night.  In  this  frail  bark  they  traversed  the  lake  200  miles  to 
Mackinaw,  where  the  British  commander  afforded  them  the 
means  of  returning  to  the  United  States.’’ 

After  the  war,  this  fort  was  repaired,  and  again  taken  posses¬ 
sion  of  by  the  American  troops.  Since  which  time,  it  has  al¬ 
ways  been  occupied  by  a  garrison.  “  About  twenty  miles  north 
of  this  fort,  there  is  a  bed  of  red  oxide  of  iron,  in  a  state  of  great 
purity,  and  its  preparation  as  a  pigment,  may  be  expected  to  re¬ 
sult  from  the  influx  of  emigrants.  Pyrites  are  also  very  com¬ 
mon  in  this  vicinity  ;  yet  it  is  a  singular  fact,  that  the  bricks  at 
Chicago,  which  are  manufactured  from  the  earth,  taken  upon  the 
banks  of  the  creek,  burn  white ,  like  the  Stourbridge  fire-bricks, 
indicating,  as  I  am  led  to  conclude,  an  absence  of  iron,  in  any  of 
its  numerous  forms  of  combination,  at  least,  in  the  usual  degree.” 
Schoolcraft. 

Fort  Dearborn  is  in  latitude  41°  45'  N. 

Fort  Edwards ,  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi, 
in  Pike  county,  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  of  the  Riviere  des  Moi¬ 
nes.  These  rapids  are  in  the  Mississippi,  and  take  their  name 
from  being  uear  the  mouth  of  the  Riviere  des  Moines.  They  are 
nine  miles  in  length,  and  terminate  about  half  a  mile  above  the 
junction  of  the  two  streams.  Opposite  the  fort,  the  water  is  deep 
and  gentle 

The  fort  is  situated  on  a  high  rocky  bluff,  consisting  of  sand¬ 
stone,  which,  however,  but  rarely  appears  on  the  surface.  The 

15 


114 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


country  cast,  is  undulating,  well  timbered  and  well  watered.  In 
the  vicinity  of  the  fort,  in  Pike  county,  native  alum  is  found  in 
abundance.  It  is  somewhat  darker  in  its  colour  than  the  man¬ 
ufactured,  but  is  said  to  be  almost  equally  pure.  There  are  also 
a  number  of  caves,  in  which  salt  petre  is  found  in  abundance. — 
In  many  of  them,  the  bottom  of  the  cave  is  white,  and  the  mine¬ 
ral  appears  in  the  form  of  waves. 

Fort  Massac ,  a  small  settlement  of  Johnson  county,  formerly 
a  military  post,  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Ohio,  nine  miles  be¬ 
low  the  mouth  of  Tennessee  river,  and  forty  above  its  junction 
with  the  Mississippi.  A  fort  was  first  built  here  by  the  French, 
when  in  possession  of  this  country.  The  Indians,  who  were 
then  at  war  with  them,  laid  a  curious  stratagem  to  take  it,  and 
it  answered  their  purpose.  A  number  of  them  appeared  in  the 
day  time  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  each  of  whom  was 
covered  with  a  bear-skin,  and  walked  on  all  fours.  Supposing 
them  to  be  bears,  a  party  of  the  French  crossed  the  river  in  pur¬ 
suit  of  them.  The  remainder  of  the  troops  left  their  quarters, 
and  resorted  to  the  bank  of  the  river  in  front  of  the  garrison,  to 
observe  the  sport.  In  the  mean  time,  a  large  body  of  warriors, 
who  were  concealed  in  the  woods  near  by,  came  silently  up  be¬ 
hind  the  fort,  and  entered  it  w  ithout  opposition,  and  very  few  of 
the  French  escaped  the  carnage.  They  afterwards  built  another 
fort  on  the  same  ground,  and  called  it  Massac ,  in  memory  of 
this  disastrous  event  *  It  was  occupied  by  them  until  about 
1750,  when  it  was  abandoned.  After  the  revolutionary  war,  it 
was  repaired  by  the  Americans,  and  was  garrisoned  for  se¬ 
veral  years.  At  present  it  is  in  a  state  of  decay.  The  travel¬ 
ler  can,  however,  still  observe  the  ruins  of  three  block-houses, 
and  a  number  of  barracks  built  in  the  form  of  a  square. 

The  latitude  of  Fort  Massac,  according  to  Ellicott,  is  57°  15' 
N.  It  is  120  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash. 

Fort  river ,  a  small  branch  of  the  Kaskaskia  river,  emptying 
into  it  from  the  w7est,  in  township  11  north,  in  range  5,  east  of  the 
Sd  principal  meridian.  Its  general  course  is  southeast.  About 
12  miles  above  the  mouth  is  a  bluff,  on  which  is  a  fort  called 


*  Stoddard’s  Sketches  of  Louisiana:. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  115 

Chickcsaw.  It  was  erected  by  the  Kaskaskia  Indians,  and 
taken  from  them  by  the  Kickapoos. 

Fountain  ferry,  at  Lower  Alton,  on  the  Mississippi.  It  is 
supplied  with  a  convenient  ferry  boat.  Travellers  from  the  east 
to  the  northern  part  of  Missouri,  generally  cross  here. 

Fox  river,  a  navigable  stream  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
state.  It  rises  near  Lake  Michigan,  passes  within  12  miles  of 
the  Melwakec,  (which  discharges  itself  into  Lake  Michigan,  90 
miles  north  of  Chicago,)  runs  a  southwest  course,  and  empties 
into  the  Illinois  on  the  right  side,  a  short  distance  above  the 
great  bend.  At  the  place  where  Fox  river  approaches  to  within 
twelve  miles  of  the  Melwakee,  there  is  an  Indian  village,  from 
which,  fifty  miles  due  west,  is  a  portage  to  a  large  Winebago  vil¬ 
lage,  called  Coscoenage ,  (or  republic,)  on  Rock  river.  Fox  river 
is  a  clear  and  beautiful  stream,  with  a  gentle  current,  uninter¬ 
rupted  by  rapids.  Near  the  point  of  its  embouchure  is  an  ex¬ 
tensive  and  valuable  bed  of  mineral  coal.  “  The  stratum  appears 
on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  is  said  to  have  an  extensive  range 
to  the  northwest,  and  is  only  covered  by  a  light  deposit  of  allu¬ 
vial  soil  of  a  few  feet  in  thickness.” — Schoolcraft . 

Fox  river ,  a  small  stream,  runs  a  southeast  course  through 
Crawford  and  Edwards  counties,  and  falls  into  the  Wabash  on 
the  right  side. 

Frankfort ,  a  small  post  town,  recently  fixed  as  the  permanent 
seat  of  justice  of  Franklin  county. 

French  village ,  (  Village  du  Cote,  Fr.)  a  small  village  of  St. 
Clair  county.  It  is  situated  about  seven  miles  southeast  of  St. 
Louis,  at  the  foot  of  the  Mississippi  bluffs,  in  sections  28  and  35 
of  township  2  north,  in  range  9,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian. 
The  inhabitants  are  principally  French,  who  preserve  all  their 
ancient  manners  and  customs. 

Gibraltar,  a  small  post  town  in  Madison  county,  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  opposite  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri 
river.  It  is  located  on  a  high  rocky  bluff,  on  sections  17,  18  and 
20,  of  township  5  north,  in  range  9,  west  of  the  3d  principal 


lit> 


GAZETTEER  OE  ILLINOIS. 


meridian.  There  is  an  ox* mill  at  this  place,  a  post-oftice,  ami 
five  or  six  houses. 

Golconda ,  (formerly  Lusk’s  ferry,  J  a  small  post  town,  and  the 
seat  of  justice  of  Pope  county.  It  is  situated  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Ohio  river,  about  eighty  miles  above  its  junction  with  the 
Mississippi,  and  twenty  below  the  mouth  of  Cumberland  river. 
It  contains  about  fifty  houses,  and  is  in  a  state  of  improve¬ 
ment.  Here  is  a  ferry  across  the  Ohio,  which  affords  a  direct 
communication  by  roads  with  different  parts  of  Kentucky  and 
Tennessee. 

Grand  Kalimick  river ,  a  considerable  stream  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  state.  Its  course  is  devious,  forming  a  semicircle 
nearly  parallel  with  the  south  limb  of  Lake  Michigan,  into 
which  it  empties  in  the  state  of  Indiana.  It  unites  with  the 
Little  Kalimick,  and  at  some  seasons  forms  a  communication 
with  it. 

Grand  Pierre  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Pope  county,  emptying 
into  the  Ohio  four  miles  above  Golconda. 

Grand  Prairie. — This  is  by  far  the  most  extensive  prairie  in 
the  state.  It  extends  from  about  the  base  line  near  the  third 
principal  meridian,  between  the  Kaskaskia  and  Wabash  rivers, 
in  a  northeast  direction  ;  then  veering  to  the  north,  between  the 
head  waters  of  Vermilion  of  the  Wabash,  Woman  river  of  Tip¬ 
pecanoe,  Iroquois  and  Ma-qua-pin-a-con  of  the  Kankakee,  on 
the  north  side,  to  near  the  junction  of  the  Illinois  and  Kankakee 
rivers,  leaving  on  the  southwest  the  Sangamo,  Michilimacinac 
and  Vermilion  river  of  the  Illinois  ;  thence  crossing  the  Kan¬ 
kakee,  bordered  with  small  skirts  of  timber,  passing  northeast 
to  Chicago,  leaving  on  the  west  the  Illinois  river,  and  on  the 
east  the  Kalimick  of  Lake  Michigan  ;  thence  continuing  north 
between  Lake  Michigan  and  the  River  des  Pleines,  to  the  north¬ 
ern  boundary  of  the  state,  and  eastvvardly  between  the  waters 
of  the  Kankakee,  to  within  nine  miles  of  the  Cowpen  trading- 
house  on  St.  Joseph’s  river.  North  and  east  of  this,  wood  land 
prevails.  This  prairie  is  generally  high  and  undulating,  with 
a  sandy  soil.  It  is  very  questionable  whether  it  will  ever  be 
thickly  settled. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


117 


Greenville ,  a  flourishing  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of 
Bond  county.  It  is  situated  in  section  10  of  township  5  north, 
in  range  3,  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian,  on  the  east  fork 
of  Shoal  creek.  The  first  house  was  built  here  in  1819.  At 
present  it  contains  upwards  of  fifty.  The  situation  of  the  place 
is  high  and  healthy.  The  surrounding  country  is  well  watered, 
and  contains  a  sufficiency  of  timber.  The  soil  is  generally  fer¬ 
tile.  Both  the  town  and  country  in  the  vicinity  are  in  a  state  of 
rapid  improvement. 

Greenville  is  in  latitude  38°  50'  N.  $  18  miles  southwest  from 
Vandal  ia. 

Hamburg ,  (formerly  Penrod9 s  ferry, )  a  small  town  in  Union 
county,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mississippi  river,  in  section  11 
of  township  13  south,  in  range  3,  west  of  the  third  principal  me¬ 
ridian.  its  situation  is  low  and  unhealthy.  As  yet  this  place 
contains  but  10  or  12  houses,  which  are  chiefly  built  of  logs. 
Here  is  a  ferry,  at  which  the  road  from  America  to  Boon’s  Lick 
crosses  the  Mississippi.  The  distance  from  America  is  30  miles. 

Hamilton ,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Montgomery,  laid  out  in  1821, 
in  sections  10  and  15  of  township  8  north,  in  range  4,  west  of 
the  third  principal  meridian — three  quarters  of  a  mile  west  of 
the  middle  fork  of  Shoal  creek,  at  the  edge  of  a  small  prairie, 
on  high,  firm,  and  commanding  ground.  It  contains  within  its 
limits  several  never  failing  springs  of  excellent  running  water. 
The  surrounding  country  is  well  timbered,  well  watered,  fertile, 
and  thickly  populated.  Its  situation,  in  point  of  healthiness,  is 
not  exceeded  by  any  in  the  state. 

Hamilton  is  in  latitude  39°  8'  N.  $  about  30  miles  northwest 
from  Vandalia. 

Harrisonvillc,  a  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Monroe 
county,  situated  in  section  18  of  township  3  south,  in  range  II, 
west  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  It^contains  40  or  50 
houses,  scattered  over  an  extensive  surface,  which  is  low  arid 
subject  to  inundation.  The  surrounding  country  is  very  fertile, 
and  a  considerable  quantity  of  its  surplus  produce  is  shipped 
to  the  southern  market.  A  sand-bar  is  forming  in  front  of 
this  place,  which  will  greatly,  affect  its  commercial  import- 


118 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


ancc.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  a  heavy  growth  of  timber, 
consisting  of  oak,  maple,  elm,  &c.  In  its  vicinity  are  seve¬ 
ral  distilleries,  and  saw  and  grist-mills.  Some  time  since,  a 
small  quantity  of  native  copper  was  found  on  the  highlands,  a 
short  distance  east  of  this  place.  A  shaft  was  sunk  in  1817 ; 
hut  in  consequence  of  some  untoward  circumstances,  was  shortly 
after  abandoned,  and  has  not  since  been  worked.  About  5  miles 
east  of  this  place  there  is  a  salt-lick,  near  which  were  found, 
about  twenty  years  ago,  fragments  of  vessels,  which  appeared 
to  have  been  about  four  feet  square,  two  or  three  feet  deep,  and 
one  inch  thick.  They  were  made  of  clay,  sand  and  shells,  were 
very  hard,  and  appeared  to  have  been  used  as  salt  kettles. 

Harrisonville  is  nearly  opposite  Herculaneum,  in  latitude  38° 
20'  N. ;  30  miles  south  of  St.  Louis,  and  85  miles  southwest  of 
Vandal  ia. 

Henderson’s  river ,  a  navigable  stream  in  the  northwestern  part 
of  the  Illinois  bounty  tract.  It  rises  in  township  12  north,  in 
range  1,  east  of  the  fourth  principal  meridian  ;  runs  a  westerly 
course  for  some  distance,  then  turns  to  the  southwest,  and  emp¬ 
ties  into  the  Mississippi  on  the  left  side,  in  section  14  of  town¬ 
ship  10  north,  in  range  6,  west  of  the  fourth  principal  meridian. 
It  is  about  50  miles  in  length,  a  considerable  part  of  which  is 
navigable.  The  lands  bordering  on  this  stream  are  generally 
prairie.  For  some  distance  below  its  mouth,  the  banks  of  the 
Mississippi  are  very  low,  and  subject  to  annual  inundation. 

Horse  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Randolph  county.  It  rises  in 
township  4  south,  in  range  9,  west  of  the  third  principal  meri¬ 
dian,  and  running  a  southerly  course,  empties  into  the  Kas- 
kaskia  on  the  right  side,  in  section  12  of  township  5  south,  in 
range  8,  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian. 

Hurricane  fork  of  Kaskashia  river ,  rises  near  the  sources 
of  the  south  fork  of  the  Sangamo,  and  running  a  southerly 
course,  empties  into  the  Kaskaskia  on  the  right  side,  twelve 
miles  below  Vandalia.  The  banks  of  this  stream  are  mostly 
well  timbered,  but  in  many  places  subject  to  inundation.  It  not 
unfrequently  happens,  that  a  rain  of  two  or  three  hours  renders 
this  stream  impassible ;  its  fall,  however,  is  generally  as  sudden 
as  its  rise. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OP  TOWNS,  &C. 


119 


Illinois  bounty  tract ,  see  Military  bounty  tract . 

Illinois  city ,  a  town  of  St.  Clair  county,  located  in  1819,  on  a 
part  of  the  common  fields  of  the  village  of  Cahokia.  The  lots 
were  distributed  among  the  inhabitants  of  the  village,  and  were 
confirmed  to  them  by  an  act  of  congress  passed  in  1820.  Nq 
improvement  has  as  yet  been  made  on  the  premises.  The  town 
is  laid  out  on  the  prairie,  a  short  distance  from  Cahokia. 

Illinois  lake ,  an  expansion  of  the  Illinois  river,  commencing  at 
Fort  Clark,  two  hundred  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  and  extending  in  a  northerly  direction  about  twenty 
miles.  It  receives  its  name  from  the  circumstance  of  its  being 
wider  than  the  river,  and  having  scarcely  any  current.  The 
name  given  to  it  by  the  Indians,  is  Pin-a-tah-wee ;  on  account 
of  its  being  frequently  covered  with  a  scum  which  has  a  greasy 
appearance.  The  water  of  the  lake  is  clear,  and  its  bottom  gra¬ 
velly.  It  abounds  with  fish  of  various  kinds,  such  as  sturgeon, 
huffaloe,  carp,  several  different  species  of  bass,  pickerel,  pike, 
perch,  white-fish,  &c.  These  fish  are  so  abundant,  that  they 
form  an  important  article  of  export.  The  shore  of  the  lake  in 
many  places  is  sandy ;  the  descent  gradual,  and  unobstructed 
by  trees,  affording  every  facility  for  carrying  on  an  extensive 
fishery. 

Independence ,  a  town  in  Bond  county,  situated  on  a  bluff,  one 
hundred  and  sixty  yards  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Kaskaskia 
river,  on  the  northwest  quarter  of  section  19,  of  township  4 
north,  in  range  1,  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  The  sit¬ 
uation  of  this  place  is  very  unhealthy,  being  surrounded  by  a 
number  of  stagnant  ponds  and  marshes.  The  town  is  laid  out 
on  a  very  extensive  scale,  but  no  improvements  have  as  yet  been 
made  on  the  ground.  It  only  exists  on  paper,  and  constitutes  a 
part  of  the  speculating  medium  of  the  state.  It  was  laid  out  dur¬ 
ing  the  time  of  the  town-making  mania,  and  a  few  of  the  lots 
were  sold  to  those  who  were  either  ignorant  of  their  true  situa¬ 
tion,  or  who  expected  to  sell  them  to  other  persons  at  a  large 
profit. 


120 


GAZETTEER  OP  ILLINOIS. 


Iroquois  river,  see  Canawaga  river . 

Johnsonsport ,  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  in 
Madison  county,  contains  a  large  ware  house,  formerly  owned 
by  Col.  Johnson,  and  two  or  three  dwelling  houses.  At  present 
it  is  merely  a  stopping  place  for  the  boats  bound  to  the  northern 
part  of  this  state. 

Jonesborough,  a  flourishing  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice 
of  Union  county,  incorporated  in  1821,  under  the  government  of 
five  trustees.  The  limits  of  the  incorporation  include  the  whole 
of  section  30,  of  township  12  south,  in  range  1,  west  of  the  third 
principal  meridian.  It  is  situated  on  one  of  the  branches  of 
Clear  creek,  and  contains  about  40  or  50  houses.  A  great  pro¬ 
portion  of  the  inhabitants  are  Germans,  who,  by  their  industry, 
have  contributed  much  to  the  improvement  of  the  settlement. — 
They  chiefly  belong  to  the  religious  sect  called  Dunkards. 

Jonesborough  is  28  miles  north  of  the  town  of  America,  from 
which  a  post  road  has  been  established,  by  an  act  of  congress. — 
It  is  in  latitude  37°  25'  north,  25  miles  south  of  Brownsville,  18 
east  of  the  Mississippi,  and  102  nearly  due  south  of  Vandalia. 

Jortae  river ,  a  considerable  stream  in  the  northeastern  part  of 
the  state,  running  a  serpentine  course  for  a  considerable  distance 
east,  and  emptying  into  the  Wabash  between  Vincennes  and  Fort 
Harrison. 

(1  have  noticed  this  stream  on  the  authority  of  several  au¬ 
thors,  although  it  is  not  mentioned  in  the  survey  of  tho  boun¬ 
dary  line  between  Illinois  and  Indiana,  which  it  must  cross,  if 
the  above  description  is  at  all  correct.) 

Kankakee  river,  see  Theakiki . 

Kaskaskia ,  an  incorporated  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice 
of  Randolph  county,  and  formerly  the  capital  of  the  state.  It  is 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  seven 
miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi,  from  which  it  is 
about  three  miles  east.  It  is  near  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
American  bottom.  The  first  settlement  made  here  was  by  the 
French  of  Canada,  shortly  after  the  visit  of  La  Salle  in  1683  ; 
and  so  long  as  the  French  continued  in  possession  of  the  Illinois 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  121 

country,  Kaskaskia  was  its  capital,  and  was  flourishing  and  po¬ 
pulous.  When  Charlevoix  visited  it  in  1721,  it  contained  a  Jes¬ 
uit  college,  the  ruins  of  which  only  remain.  In  1763,  this 
place,  as  well  as  the  country  east  of  tiie  Mississippi,  was  ceded 
by  France  to  Great  Britain.  In  1766,  it  contained  about  100 
families,  w  hich  number  it  retained  until  the  revolutionary  war. 
In  1778,  the  fort  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Kaskaskia  river, 
was  taken  by  Col.  afterwards  Gen.  George  Rogers  Clarke. — 
After  that  time,  and  until  within  a  few  years,  this  town  continued 
gradually  to  decline  ;  owing  chiefly  to  the  ordinance  of  1787, 
which  prohibited  slavery  and  involuntary  servitude,  in  what  was 
then  denominated  the  northwestern  territory.  The  slave  hold- 
ers  were  disposed  to  preserve  this  species  of  property,  and  in 
order  to  do  it  effectually,  they  abandoned  their  ancient  hab¬ 
itations,  and  joined  their  friends  in  the  new  dominions  of' 
Spain,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi. 

At  present  this  place  contains  upwards  of  150  houses.  They 
are  scattered  over  an  extensive  plain ;  and  the  greatest  propor¬ 
tion  are  built  of  wood,  in  the  French  style.  Many  of  them  have 
fine  gardens  in  front  and  rear,  which  give  them  a  rural  appear¬ 
ance.  Here  is  a  Catholic  church,  a  court  house  and  jail,  and  a 
land-office  for  the  sale  of  public  lands  in  this  district.  A  bridge  is 
about  to  be  erected  across  the  Kaskaskia  river,  under  the  au¬ 
thority  of  an  act  of  the  legislature.  This  w  ill  he  of  immense  ad¬ 
vantage  to  the  town  and  surrounding  country.  On  the  east  side 
of  the  river,  directly  opposite  the  town,  the  bluffs  approach  the 
river,  and  continue  parallel  with  it  to  its  junction  w  ith  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  when  they  follow  the  course  of  that  stream  in  a  south¬ 
erly  direction,  and  terminate  thirty-five  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Ohio,  forming  the  southern  boundary  of  the  highlands  on 
the  Mississippi.  From  the  tow  n  to  the  junction  of  the  Kaskas¬ 
kia  with  the  Mississippi,  there  is  a  body  of  land,  called  “  the 
Point, ”  which  is  low,  and  subject  to  inundation,  but  well  timber¬ 
ed.  It  abounds  in  wild  horses,  numbers  of  which  are  annually 
caught 

By  an  act  of  congress,  passed  in  1788,  a  large  tract  of  land 
was  granted  to  the  different  French  villages  on  the  cast  side  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  a  separate  tract  to  the  inhabitants  of  Kas- 

16 


122 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


kaskia,  to  bp  used  as  a  common.  It  is  situated  on  the  Missis¬ 
sippi.  and  contains  twenty  thousand  acres.  It  is  under  the  di¬ 
rection  of  the  trustees  of  the  town,  in  conformity  with  the  special 
acts  of  the  legislature. 

Kaskaskia  is  in  latitude  57°  57'  north,  Smiles  east  of  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi  river,  60  miles  south-southeast  of  St.  Louis,  and  85 
south-southwest  of  Vandalia. 

Kaskaskia  reservation ,  a  tract  of  land  containing  about  70© 
acres,  situated  on  Big  Muddy  l  iver,  in  township  9  south,  in 
range  S,  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  This  is  all  that 
at  present  belongs  to  the  Kaskaskia  Indians,  w  ho,  but  a  few 
years  ago  posses  ed  nearly  the  w  hole  state  of  Illinois.  Should  the 
land  become  tah.able,  il  is  not  probable  that  they  will  continue 
to  keep  possession  even  of  this  small  d  art. 

Kaskaskia  river ,  a  large  stream,  rising  in  the  northeastern 
part  of  the  state,  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Embarras  and  Lit¬ 
tle  Wabash  rivers,  anti  running  in  a  southwestern  direction 
through  the  state,  empties  into  the  Mississippi  on  the  left  side, 
in  sections  14  and  15,  of  township  9  south,  in  range  7  w  est  of  the 
third  principal  meridian,  about  100  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio.  It  is  upwards  of  300  miles  in  length,  and  receives  numer¬ 
ous  tributaries.  The  most  considerable  of  these  are  Lost,  Croo¬ 
ked,  Elkhorn  and  Plumb  creeks  from  the  east ;  the  West  fork, 
Turkey,  Blackbird  and  Meahkaninon  creeks.  Fort  Rive]-,  Hur¬ 
ricane  fork.  Shoal,  Sugar,  Silver,  Richland  and  Horse  creeks, 
from  the  west.  This  river  is  navigable  in  high  water  to  Van- 
dalia,  150  miles  from  its  mouth.  Us  banks,  and  those  of 
its  tributaries,  are  generally  fertile,  and  contain  some  ofthe  rich¬ 
est  and  most  flourishing  settlements  in  the  state.  The  country 
is  generally  undulating,  and  is  well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of 
corn,  wheat,  rye,  oats  and  tobacco.  Cotton  is  not  a  sure  crop, 
on  account  of  the  early  frosts.  With  care  and  attention,  a  suffi¬ 
cient  quantity  is  raised  for  home  consumption,  and  it  may  in 
time  become  an  article  of  export.  The  Kaskaskia  is  about  150 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  The  left  hank  is  high,  and  affords 
a  line  situation  for  a  town ;  but  in  many  places  the  hanks  of  this 


123 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 

stream  are  low,  ami  subject  to  inundation,  which  is  a  fruitful 
source  of  disease. 

Keys9  settlement ,  is  situated  in  Sangamon  county.  It  is  68 
miles  north  of  Edwardsvilie,  on  the  main  road  between  that  place 
and  Fort  Clark. 

Kickapoo ,  or  Redbud  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Pike  county, 
running  a  south  and  southeast  course,  and  emptying  into  the 
Illinois  river  on  the  right  side,  two  miles  below  Fort  Clark. 
On  the  banks  of  this  stream  is  an  extensive  bed  of  coal,  which 
furnished  fuel  to  the  garrison  and  the  inhabitants  of  Peoria. 
The  stratum  is  about  12  or  14  feet  below  the  surface,  and  is 
overlaid  by  slate,  limestone  and  sandstone.  There  are  also 
several  valuable  mill-seats  on  this  stream. 

Kincaid  creek ,  a  trifling  branch  of  Big  Muddy  river. 

L’Jligle  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Monroe  county,  running  a 
northeast  course,  then  bending  to  the  southwest,  and  emptying 
into  the  Mississippi  on  the  left  side,  in  section  7,  of  township  3 
south,  in  range  11,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian,  about  one 
mile  above  Harrisonville. 

Lake  Peoria ,  see  Illinois  Luke . 

La  Page  river ,  sec  Riviere  du  Page. 

Lawrenceville ,  the  county  seat  of  Lawrence,  situated  on  the 
west  bank  of  Embarras  river,  about  ten  miles  west  of  Vin¬ 
cennes,  on  the  direct  road  to  Vandalia,  in  the  centre  of  a  fertile 
and  thickly  settled  country.  The  Embarras  is  navigable  to 
this  place.  It  is  in  latitude  38°  40'  north  ;  77  miles  east-south¬ 
east  of  Vandalia, 

Lebanon ,  a  flourishing  post  town  of  St.  Clair  county,  situated 
on  the  west  bank  of  Silver  creek,  in  section  24  of  township  2 
north,  in  range  7,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian — about  20 
miles  east  of  St.  Louis,  on  the  direct  road  from  Vincennes  to 
that  place.  The  town  is  located  on  the  ridge  of  a  small  prairie  ; 
the  streets  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  are  from  60  to 
75  feet  wide.  This  place,  although  as  yet  small,  promises  to 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


124 

become  a  considerable  inland  town.  The  situation  is  very  plea¬ 
sant  and  healthy,  and  has  many  local  advantages.  There  are  a 
number  of  mills  of  different  descriptions  in  the  vicinity,  and  the 
country  generally  is  rapidly  increasing  in  population. 

,  <  I  .1  ’j|  ® :  i.  .  ,  •<  « 

Lick  creek ,  a  small  stream,  emptying  into  the  Kaskaskia  river 
on  the  left  side,  a  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  Sugar  creek. 
It  heads  in  the  Grand  Prairie,  and  receives  its  name  from  the 
number  of  salt-licks  on  its  hanks.  The  lands  on  this  stream 
are  generally  well  timbered:  the  soil  is  what  is  called  by  the 
surveyors,  second  rate. 

Little  Beaucoup  creek ,  a  small  branch  of  Big  Beaucoup,  run¬ 
ning  through  Randolph  and  Jackson  counties. 

Little  Detroit ,  an  Indian  village,  situated  on  the  east  hank  of 
Lake  Peoria,  six  miles  above  Fort  Clark. 

Little  Kalmuck  river,  a  small  stream  of  Clark  county  ;  runs  a 
north  course,  and  falls  into  Lake  Michigan  some  distance  west 
of  Grand  Kalimiek.  The  lands  between  these  two  streams  are 
very  low  ;  and  during  the  prevalence  of  north  winds,  they  form 
a  junction,  w  hich  affords  a  navigation  for  small  boats.  About 
500  Ottawa  Indians  reside  on  the  banks  of  these  streams. 

Little  Michillimacinac,  a  navigable  stream  of  Sangamon.  It 
runs  in  a  westerly  direction  through  the  county,  and  empties 
into  the  Illinois  on  the  east  side,  twelve  miles  below  Fort  Clark. 
Its  head  waters  interlock  with  those  of  the  Kaskaskia. 

Little  Muddy  creek ,  a  small  stream  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
state,  running  a  southern  direction,  and  emptying  into  Big 
Muddy  on  the  right  side,  in  section  13  of  township  8  south,  in 
range  1,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian. 

Little  Piasau,  a  small  creek,  running  a  westerly  course  through 
Madison  county,  and  emptying  into  the  Mississippi  on  the  left 
side,  near  Fountain  ferry. 

Little  Prairie ,  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  Illinois  river,  op¬ 
posite  Fort  Clark.  It  contains  a  fine  settlement.  The  soil  of 
the  prairie  is  very  fertile,  being  a  rich  vegetable  mould — having 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


125 


been  under  cultivation  many  years  since,  by  the  inhabitants  of 
Peoria.  Corn  was  raised  here,  during  the  last  season,  without 
the  use  of  a  plough.  This  prairie  is  washed  by  Bachelor’s  run, 
and  is  hounded  on  all  sides  by  hills. 

Li  tie  Vermilion  river,  a  small  stream,  running  a  southeast 
course  through  Clark  county,  and  emptying  into  the  Wabash 
below  Big  Vermilion  river*  It  crosses  the  eastern  boundary 
line  of  the  state  85  miles  north  of  Vincennes,  at  which  place  it 
is  100  links  in  width. 

Little  Wabash  river ,  rises  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Kas- 
kaskia,  and  running  a  southern  course  through  the  counties  of 
Clark.  Fayette,  Crawford,  Lawrence,  Wayne,  Edwards,  White 
and  Gallatin,  empties  into  the  Big  Wabash,  a  short  distance 
above  its  junction  with  the  Ohio.  It  is  about  150  miles  in  length, 
and  receives  many  tributaries,  of  which  West  and  Skillet  forks 
are  the  most  considerable.  The  banks  of  this  stream  are  in  ge¬ 
neral  fertile,  but  in  many  places  subject  to  excessive  inundations. 
This  is  particularly  the  case  with  the  country  between  it  and 
the  Skillet  fork.  In  many  places  it  is  flat  and  swampy,  so  that 
the  water  remains  upon  it  during  the  whole  season.  In  the  au¬ 
tumn  this  stream  is  very  sluggish,  and  has  a  very  scanty  supply 
of  water.  A  company  has  been  incorporated  by  the  legislature 
of  the  state,  called  the  Little  Wabash  navigation  company,  for 
the  purpose  of  erecting  a  toll  bridge  across  it  at  the  town  of 
Car  mi. 

Lusk  s  creek,  a  trifling  stream,  running  a  southerly  course 
through  the  county  of  Pope,  and  emptying  into  the  Ohio  at  Goi  - 
eonda. 

Lusk's  ferry,  see  Golem, da* 

Madison,  a  town  in  Madison  county,  laid  out  in  1820,  on  a 
high  prairie,  in  the  centre  of  the  Marine  settlement.  No  im¬ 
provement  has  as  vet  been  made  on  the  premises. 

Mag o pin  creek ,  sec  Ma-qua-pin. 

Mah-waw-kee-ta,  see  Lear  creek . 


426 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS* 


Mantua,  a  town  in  Hamilton  county,  situated  on  a  branch  of 
Saline  creek,  in  sections  12  and  13  of  township  6  south,  in  range 
7,  east  of  the  3d  principal  meridian. 

Ma-qua-pin  creek,  a  small  stream,  running  a  westerly  course 
through  Greene  county,  and  emptying  into  the  Illinois  on  the 
left  side,  twenty -six  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi. 
It  received  its  name  from  certain  roots,  so  called,  found  on  the 
hanks,  which  if  eaten  raw,  are  rank  poison  ;  but  boiled  for  five 
or  six  days  or  longer,  lose  their  noxious  qualities  *  The  coun¬ 
try  on  the  banks  of  this  stream  is  fertile,  and  rapidly  increasing 
in  population.  The  creek  is  25  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  which 
is  in  section  24,  of  tow  nship  8  north,  in  range  14,  west  of  the  3d 
principal  meridian,  and  is  hoatable  lor  a  short  distance.  Iron 
ore  has  been  found  on  the  head  waters. 

Marais  Casu,  an  inconsiderable  stream  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  state.  It  runs  a  westerly  course,  and  empties  into  the 
Mississippi,  20  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Rock  river,  nearly  op¬ 
posite  the  mouth  of  Swan  river,  at  which  place  is  an  Indian  vil¬ 
lage. 

Marais  de  Pronlcc ,  a  considerable  stream,  running  a  southeas¬ 
terly  course  through  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  and  emptying 
into  the  Illinois  on  the  right  side,  neartlje  northeastern  bounda¬ 
ry  of  the  military  tract.  In  wet  seasons,  there  is  a  communica¬ 
tion  formed  between  this  stream  and  Rock  river,  which  is  navi¬ 
gable  for  boats  of  considerable  burthen. 

Marine  settlement,  a  very  flourishing  settlement  of  Madison 
county.  It  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  prairie,  near  a  branch  of 
Silver  creek,  in  township  4  north,  in  range  6,  west  of  the  third 
principal  meridian.  The  settlement  was  commenced  in  IS 1 9, 
by  Capts.  Blakeman  and  Allen,  and  is  now  one  of  the  most  flour¬ 
ishing  in  the  state.  It  is  healthy  and  well  watered  ;  the  lands  arc 
gently  undulating,  and  the  soil  very  fertile.  (See  a  report  of  the 
Illinois  agricultural  society,  in  the  description  of  Madison  coun¬ 
ty.)  Marine  settlement  is  about  12  miles  east  of  Edwardsville, 
on  the  mail  route  between  St.  Louis  and  Vandal ia. 

See  Charlevoix’s  voyage  to  North  America,  1721. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  kc. 


127 


Mary's  liver,  a  stream  of  Randolph  county,  running  in  a  south¬ 
west  direction  about  20  or  30  miles,  and  emptying  into  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  85  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  six  below 
the  Kaskaskia,  in  township  7  south,  in  range  6,  west  of  the  3d 
principal  meridian.  It  has  several  tributaries. 

Mascontin  river ,  a  stream  of  the  northern  part  of  the  state, 
running  in  an  eastern  course,  and  emptying  into  the  Wabash  on 
the  west  side  between  Vincennes  and  Fort  Harrison. 

Mauvaise  Terre  creek ,  (called  by  traders,  Negro  Creek.)  a 
beautiful  stream  of  Greene  county,  running  a  west  course,  and 
emptying  into  the  Illinois  on  the  left  side,  80  miles  above  its 
junction  with  the  Mississippi,  and  three  miles  below  McKee’s 
creek,  opposite  section  3  of  township  4  south,  in  range  2,  west 
of  the  4th  principal  meridian.  At  present,  it  is  only  navigable 
for  a  short  distance,  owing  to  the  quantity  of  timber  with  which 
it  is  obstructed.  The  banks  of  this  stream  are  generally  fertile. 
About  20  miles  above  its  mouth  is  Diamond  Grove,  which  has  al¬ 
ready  become  a  considerable  settlement.  There  is  also  another 
within  a  mile  of  the  Illinois.  The  beautiful  prairie  which  is  call¬ 
ed  the  Mauvaise  terre  extends  for  some  distance  on  both  sides  of 
the  creek.  It  is  several  feet  above  high  water  mark,  and  has  been 
considered  an  eligible  situation  for  a  town.  The  only  objection  to 
it  is  the  ponds  under  the  bluff.  The  French,  who  first  visited  this 
country,  supposed  from  its  appearance,  that  the  soil  was  poor, 
and  as  this  was  uncommon  on  this  river,  they  gave  it,  as  they 
thought,  an  appropriate  name.  The  Americans  generally  call  it 
6i  Yellow  Banks.”  The  soil  is  fertile,  and  this  prairie  and  the 
surrounding  country,  in  every  other  respect,  is  desirable  for  set¬ 
tlers.  Nothing  can  exceed  its  beautiful  appearance  in  the  spring. 

Meahkaninon ,  a  creek  of  Bond  county,  emptying  into  the  Kas¬ 
kaskia  river,  on  the  right  side  above  Fort  River. 

Melwakee  river ,  runs  in  a  northern  direction  through  the 
northeastern  part  of  the  state,  and  empties  into  Lake  Michigan, 
in  lat.  43°  N.  Father  Hennepin  calls  it  Melleoki,  and  observes 
that  Maskontins  and  Outtouagamies  resided  on  its  banks. 


128 


GAZETTEER  OP  ILLINOIS. 


McDonald's  creek ,  a  small  stream  in  the  southern  part  of  Pike 
county.  It  heads  in  township  3  south,  in  range  6,  west  of  the 
fourth  principal  meridian,  and  running  in  a  southerly  direction, 
empties  into  Chenail  Ecarte,  in  section  29,  of  township  4  south,  in 
range,  7  west  of  the  fourth  principal  meridian.  The  lands  at  the 
mouth  of  this  stream  are  reported,  by  the  surveyors,  as  first 
rate. 

McDonald  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Clark  county,  rises  in  the 
state  of  Indiana,  and  running  an  east-northeast  course,  empties 
into  Canawaga  or  Iroquois  river.  It  crosses  the  eastern  boun¬ 
dary  line  of  Illinois,  130  miles  north  of  V  incennes.  The  lands 
on  the  banks  of  this  stream  arc  high  and  undulating. 

McKee's  creek ,  a  considerable  stream  of  Pike  county.  It  rises 
in  township  1  south,  in  range  7,  west  of  the  fourth  principal  me. 
ridian,  and  running  an  cast  and  southeast  course*  empties  into  the 
Illinois  river,  ninety  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi, 
in  section  26,  of  township  3  south,  in  range  2  west,  of  the  fourth 
principal  meridian.  It  is  about  30  miles  in  length,  and  the  lands 
bordering  on  it  are  generally  of  the  first  quality. 

McLeansborough ,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Hamilton  county,  laid 
out  in  1821. 

Michillimacindc  river ,  see  Little  Michillimacinac . 

Military  Bounty  Tract.  Having  given  a  general  description 
of  the  lands  in  this  tract  under  the  head  of  Pike  county,  I  shall 
here  present  extracts  of  the  several  laws  of  the  state,  with  re¬ 
gard  to  the  recording  of  deeds,  and  the  payment  of  taxes. 

LAWS  CONCERNING  DEEDS. 

Extract  from  an  act  of  the  Legislature  of  Illinois ,  entitled  iC  An  act 

establishing  the  Recorder's  Office,  and  for  other  purposes pass¬ 
ed  February  19,  1819. 

That  all  deeds  to  be  recorded  in  pursuance  of  this  act,  where¬ 
by  any  state  of  inheritance  in  fee  simple  shall  hereafter  be  limit¬ 
ed  to  the  grantor,  and  his  heirs  ;  the  words,  grant9  bargain ,  self 
shall  be  adjudged  an  express  covenant  to  the  grantee,  his  heirs 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS;  &C.  129 


and  assigns,  to  w  it :  That  the  grantor  was  seised  of  an  indefea¬ 
sible  estate,  in  fee  simple,  freed  from  incumbrances,  done  or  suf¬ 
fered  from  the  grantor,  except  the  rents  and  services,  that  may 
be  reserved  ;  as  also  for  quiet  enjoyment  against  the  grantor, 
his  heirs  and  assigns,  unless  limited  by  express  words  contained 
in  such  deed;  and  that  the  grantee,  his  heirs,  executors  and  ad¬ 
ministrators,  and  assigns,  may,  in  any  action,  assign  brea<  lies, 
as  if  such  covenants  were  expressly  inserted  :  Provided  always , 
That  this  law  shall  not  extend  to  leases  at  rack  rent,  or  to  leases 
not  exceeding  one  and  twenty  }  ears,  where  the  actual  possession 
goes  w  ith  the  lease. 

All  deeds  and  conveyances,  which  shall  he  made  and  executed 
of,  or  concerning  any  lands,  tenements,  or  hereditaments,  with¬ 
in  this  state,  or  whereby  the  same  may  in  any  way  be  effected 
in  law  or  equity,  (if  such  deeds  and  conveyances  shall  be  made 
in  this  state)  shall  be  acknow  ledged  by  one  of  the  grantors,  pro¬ 
ved  by  one  or  more  of  the  subscribing  witnesses  to  such  deed  or 
conveyance,  before  one  of  the  justices  of  the  supreme  court,  or 
before  some  county  commissioner,  of  the  county  w  here  the  deed  or 
conveyance  was  executed,  or  before  some  justice  of  the  peace  of 
sui  h  county.  But  if  such  deed  or  conveyance  shall  he  made  and 
executed  without  this  state,  then  the  same  shall  he  acknowledg¬ 
ed  by  the  grantor1,  or  proved  by  one  of  the  subscribing  witness¬ 
es,  before  some  judge  of  a  superior  court  of  the  state,  mayor  or 
other  chief  magistrate  of  the  city,  or  before  the  clerk  of  the 
county,  or  other  court  of  the  county,  where  such  deeds  or  con¬ 
veyances  shall  be  made  and  executed,  and  certified  under  the 
common  or  public  seal  of  such  city  or  county.  And  all  such 
deeds  and  conveyances,  whether  executed  within  or  without  the 
state,  shall  he  recorded  in  the  recorder’s  office  of  the  county 
where  such  lands,  tenements  or  hereditaments  are  lying,  and 
being  within  12  months  after  the  execution  of  such  deeds  and 
conveyances  ;  and  every  such  deed  or  conveyance,  that  shall  at 
any  time  after  the  publication  hereof,  be  made  and  executed, 
and  which  shall  not  he  proved  and  recorded  as  aforesaid,  shall 
be  adjudged  fraudulent  and  void  against  any  subsequent  purcha¬ 
ser  or  mortgagee,  for  valuable  consideration,  unless  such  deed 
or  conveyance  be  recorded  as  aforesaid,  before  the  proving  and 


nr 


130 


GAZETTEER  OP  ILLINOIS* 


recording  of  the  deed  of  conveyance,  under  which  such  subse¬ 
quent  purchaser  or  mortgagee  shall  claim. 

When  the  grantors  and  witnesses  of  any  deed  or  conveyance, 
are  deceased  or  cannot  he  had,  it  shall  and  may  be  lawful  to  and 
for  the  justices  of  the  supreme  court,  or  county  commissioners, 
or  any  justice  of  the  peace,  to  take  the  examination  of  any  wit¬ 
ness  or  witnesses  on  oath  or  affirmation,  to  prove  the  hand  writ¬ 
ing  of  such  deceased  witness  or  witnesses;  or  where  such  proof 
cannot  be  had,  then  to  prove  the  hand  writing  of  the  grantor  or 
grantors,  which  shall  be  certified  by  the  judge  or  justice,  before 
whom  such  proof  shall  be  made;  and  such  deed  or  conveyance 
being  so  proved,  shall  be  recorded  as  is  usual  in  other  cases,  di¬ 
rected  above  by  this  law. 

Every  recorder  shall  keep  a  fair  book,  in  which  he  shall  im¬ 
mediately  make  an  entry  of  every  deed  or  writing  brought  into 
his  office  to  be  recorded,  mentioning  therein  the  date,  the  parties 
and  the  place,  where  the  lands,  tenements,  or  hereditaments 
granted  or  conveyed  by  the  said  deed  or  writing,  are  situated, 
dating  the  same  entry  on  the  day  in  which  such  deed  or  writing 
was  brought  into  his  office  ;  and  shall  record  all  such  deeds  and 
writings,  in  regular  succession,  according  to  their  priority  of  time 
in  being  brought  in  said  office  ;  and  shall  also  immediately  give 
a  receipt  to  the  person  bringing  such  deed  or  writing  to  be  re¬ 
corded,  bearing  date  on  the  same  day  with  the  entry,  and  con¬ 
taining  the  abstract  aforesaid  ;  for  which  entry  and  receipt  he 
shall  take  no  fee  or  reward  whatever.  And  if  any  recorder  shalj 
record  any  deed  or  writing  before  another  first  brought  into  his 
office  to  he  recorded,  or  in  any  other  manner  than  is  herein  di¬ 
rected,  or  shall  neglect  or  refuse  to  make  such  entry,  or  give 
receipt  as  is  herein  before  directed,  or  shall  directly  or  indirectly 
take  or  receive  any  fee  or  reward,  he  shall  forfeit  and  pay  for  eve¬ 
ry  such  offence,  a  sum  not  exceeding  three  hundred,  nor  less  than 
one  hundred  dollars  ;  one  half  to  the  use  of  the  state,  and  the 
other  half  to  him  or  them,  that  shall  sue  for  the  same  ;  to  be  re¬ 
covered  in  any  court  of  record,  by  action  of  debt,  bill  or  plaint, 
wherein  no  essoin,  protection,  or  wager  of  law,  or  more  than  one 
imparlance  shall  be  granted. 

When  any  husband  and  wife  shall  hereafter  be  inclined  to  dis¬ 
pose  of,  and  convey  the  estate  of  the  wife,  or  her  right  of,  in,  or 


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131 


to  any  lands,  tenements  or  hereditaments  whatsoever,  it  shall 
and  may  be  lawful  to  and  for  the  said  husband  and  wife,  the  wife 
not  being  less  than  eighteen  years  of  age,  to  make,  seal,  deliv  er 
and  execute  any  grant,  bargain  and  sale,  lease,  release,  feoff¬ 
ment,  deed,  conveyance  or  assurance  in  the  law  whatsoever,  for 
the  lands,  tenements  and  hereditaments,  intended  to  be  by  them 
passed  and  conveyed  ;  and  after  such  execution  to  appear  before 
one  of  the  justices  of  the  supreme  court,  or  county  commissioner, 
or  justices  of  the  peace,  and  to  acknowledge  the  said  deed  or  con. 
veyance,  w  hich  justice  of  the  supreme  court,  county  commis¬ 
sioner,  or  justice  of  the  peace,  shall,  and  he  is  hereby  authorized 
and  required  to  take  such  acknowledgment,  in  doing  whereof, 
he  shall  examine  the  wife  separate  and  apart  from  her  husband, 
and  shall  read  and  otherwise  make  known  the  full  contents  of 
such  deed  or  conveyance  to  the  said  wife  :  and  if  upon  such  sep¬ 
arate  examination,  she  shall  declare  that  she  did  voluntarily,  and 
of  her  own  free  will  and  accord,  seal,  and  as  her  act  and  deed, 
deliver  the  said  deed  or  conveyance  without  any  compulsion  or 
coercion  of  her  said  husband,  every  such  deed  or  conveyance 
shall  be,  and  the  same  is  hereby  declared  to  be  good  and  valid 
in  law,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  as  if  the  said  wife  had  been 
sole,  and  not  covert  at  the  time  of  such  sealing  and  delivery  ; 
any  law,  usage  or  custom  to  the  contrary  in  any  wise  notwith¬ 
standing:  Provided ,  That  the  judge  or  justice  taking  such  ac¬ 
knowledgment  shall,  under  his  hand  and  seal,  certify  the  same 
upon  the  back  of  such  deed  or  conveyance. 

Extract  from  an  act  entitled  “  An  act  regulating  the  fees  of  the 
several  officers  and  persons  therein  named,”  passed  March  20, 
1819. 

recorder’s  fees. 

Recording  deeds,  mortgages,  and  all  other  instruments  of 

writing,  per  one  hundred  words,  S00  18 

For  certificate  of  any  writing  recorded,  00  50 


GAZETTEER  OT  ILLINOIS. 


LAWS  CONCERNING  TAXES. 

Extract  of  a  law  of  Congress ,  entitled  6S  Jin  act  to  enable  the  peo¬ 
ple  of  the  Illinois  territory ,  to  form  a  constitution  and  state  gov¬ 
ernment ,  and  for  the  admission  of  such  state  into  the  Union  on 
an  equal  footing  with  the  original  states ,”  passed  April  18. 1818. 

66  Provided  always ,  That  the  four  foregoing  propositions, 
herein  offered*  are  on  tlie  conditions  that  the  convention  of  the 
said  state  shall  provide  by  an  ordinance,  irrevocable  without  the 
consent  of  tire  United  States,  that  every  and  each  tract  of  land 
sold  by  the  United  States,  from  and  after  the  first  day  of  Janua¬ 
ry,  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  nineteen,  shall  remain  ex¬ 
empt  from  any  tax  laid  by  order,  or  under  any  authority  of  the 
state,  whether  for  state,  county  or  township,  or  any  other*  pur¬ 
pose  whatever,  for*  the  term  of  live  years  from  and  after  the  day 
of  sale  :  And  further ,  'That  the  bounty  lands  granted,  or  hereaf¬ 
ter  to  be  granted,  for  military  servi<  es  during  the  late  war,  shall, 
while  they  continue  to  be  held  by  the  patentees  or  their  heirs, 
remain  exempt  as  aforesaid  from  all  taxes,  for  the  term  of  three 
year*  from  and  after  the  date  of  the  patents  respectively  ;  and 
that  aii  the  lands  belonging  to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States, 
residing  without  the  said  state,  shall  never  be  taxed  higher  than 
lands  belonging  to  persons  residing  therein. 

Extract  from  an  ordinance  passed  by  the  Convention  of  the  state  of 

Illinois ,  August  26,  1818, 

“  Therefore,  this  convention,  on  behalf  of  and  by  the  authori¬ 
ty  of  the  people  of  the  state,  do  further  ordain  and  declare,  that 
every  and  each  tract  of  land  sold  by  thu  United  States,  from  and 
after*  the  first  day  of  January,  1819,  shall  remain  exempt  from 
any  tax  laid  by  order  or  under  any  authority  of  the  state,  wheth¬ 
er  for  state,  county  or  tow  nship,  or  any  purpose  whatever*,  for 
the  term  of  five  years  from  and  after  the  day  of  sale.  And  that 
the  bounty  lands  granted  or  hereafter  to  be  granted  for*  military- 
services  during  the  late  war,  shall  while  they  continue  to  he  held 
by  the  patentees  or  their  heirs,  remain  exempt  as  aforesaid,  from 
all  taxes  for  the  term  of  three  years  from  and  after  the  date  of 
the  patents  respectively  $  and  that  all  the  lands  belonging  to  the 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OP  TOWNS,  &C. 


IBS 


citizens  of  the  United  States  residing  without  the  said  state,  shall 
never  he  taxed  higher  than  lands  belonging  to  persons  residing 
therein  And  this  convention  do  further  ordain  and  declare, 
that  the  foregoing  ordinance  shall  not  be  revoked,  without  the 
consent  of  the  United  States. 

Extract  from  a  law  of  the  stale  of  Illinois ,  entitled  “  An  act  pro¬ 
viding  for  the  valuation  of  lands  and  other  properly ,  and  laying 
a  tax  thereon,'9  passed  March  27,  1819. 

That  all  lands  claimed  by  individuals,  whether  by  deed,  entry, 
bond  for  conveyance,  patent,  grant  or  otherwise,  or  where  the 
same  has  been  entered  in  any  land-office  established  for  the  sale 
of  lands  lying  within  this  state,  for  the  purposes  of  taxation, 
shall  be,  and  they  are  hereby  divided  into  three  classes,  as  fol¬ 
lows,  to  wits  Lauds  of  the  first  quality  shall  compose  the  first 
class  ;  of  the  second  quality,  the  second  class  ;  and  of  the  third 
quality,  the  third  class. 

That  for  the  purposes  aforesaid,  the  lands  aforesaid  shall  be, 
and  they  are  hereby  valued  as  follows,  to  wit :  Lands  of  the  first 
class,  at  four  dollars  per  acre  ;  of  the  second  class,  at  three  dol¬ 
lars  per  acre  ;  of  the  third  class,  at  two  dollars  per  acre. 

That  each  and  every  person  claiming  lands  as  aforesaid,  shall 
pay,  in  the  manner  hereinafter  pointed  out,  a  tax  of  one  half  per 
centum  per  annum  upon  the  value  of  his  or  her  lands,  fixed  as 
aforesaid  ;  and  the  state  shall  have  a  lien  upon  all  and  every 
tract  of  land  or  claim  thereto,  hoi  den  or  claimed  as  aforesaid. 

That  ail  sales  and  other  proceedings  hereinafter  directed, 
shall  be  good  and  valid,  in  whose  name  soever  the  said  land  or 
claim  thereto  shall  be  listed,  entered  or  sold,  unless  he,  she  or 
they,  contesting  the  validity  thereof,  shall  shew  that  the  tax  had 
actually  been  paid  thereon  ;  which  in  all  cases  shall  be  the  first 
thing  required  of  any  one  attempting  to  set  aside  any  sale  under 
this  act. 

That  all  non-residents  claiming  land  as  aforesaid,  shall  enter 
the  same  with  the  auditor  of  public  accounts,  at  his  office  at  the 
seat  of  government,  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  August  next, 
and  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  August  yearly  and  every  year; 
and  all  such  non-residents  shall  pay  to  the  treasurer  of  this  state 
the  taxes  imposed  by  this  law,  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  Oc- 


134 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


tober  next,  and  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  October  yearly  and 
every  year  ;  and  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  every  such  non-resident, 
at  the  time  he  enters  his  lands  with  the  auditor  as  aforesaid, 
either  by  himself  or  agent,  to  present  to  the  auditor  a  list  of  his 
lands,  describing  the  quality  thereof,  and  the  class  to  which 
each  tract  belongs,  and  the  county  in  which  each  tract  of  land 
is  situated  ;  which  list  shall  be  accompanied  with  an  affidavit  of 
such  non-resident  or  his  agent,  wherein  it  shall  be  stated,  that 
such  list  contains  a  true  description  of  the  lands  therein  described, 
to  the  best  of  the  affiant’s  knowledge  and  belief. 

That  if  any  non-resident  shall  fail,  neglect  or  refuse  to  enter 
with  the  auditor  his  lands  as  aforesaid,  or  if  any  such  non-resi¬ 
dent  shall  fail,  neglect  or  refuse  to  pay  the  taxes  to  the  treasurer 
as  aforesaid,  each  and  every  non-resident  so  failing,  neglecting 
or  refusing,  shall  pay  three  times  the  amount  of  the  taxes  by 
this  law  imposed  as  aforesaid,  and  the  lands  of  such  delinquent 
shall  be  rated  in  the  first  class  ;  and  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the 
auditor  to  transmit  a  list  of  lands  not  entered  by  non-residents, 
together  with  a  list  of  lands  entered  where  the  tax  has  not  been 
levied  thereon  conformably  to  the  directions  of  this  act,  to  the 
sheriff*  of  the  county  wherein  the  seat  of  government  is  situated, 
as  soon  as  may  be  ;  whereupon  the  said  sheriff  shall  advertise 
the  said  lands  as  listed  for  sale,  in  some  public  newspaper  print¬ 
ed  at  the  seat  of  government  of  the  state,  and  if  there  shall  be  no 
such  newspaper  printed  at  the  seat  of  government,  then  in  the 
paper  printed  nearest  thereto,  as  many  as  five  weeks  successive¬ 
ly,  giving  notice  of  the  day  of  sale  ;  and  shall  accordingly,  con¬ 
tinuing  the  sale  from  day  to  day,  if  necessary,  sell  the  whole,  or 
so  much  of  each  tract  as  will  pay  the  tax,  the  sheriff’s  fees,  and 
the  costs  of  advertising  ;  which  sale  shall  be  at  the  door  of  the 
house  where  court  is  or  may  be  usually  held  for  the  county. 

That  if  any  tract  of  land,  of  either  residents  or  non-residents, 
will  not,  when  exposed  to  sale  as  aforesaid,  sell  for  the  taxes  and 
costs  due  thereon,  it  shall  be  struck  off  to  the  state,  which  shall 
be  considered  the  purchaser  thereof.  And  in  all  cases  of  non¬ 
resident’s  lands,  the  sheriff  who  sells  the  same  shall  return  to 
the  auditor  a  list  of  the  sales,  specifying  the  quantity  of  each 
that  has  been  sold,  the  price  it  sold  for,  and  the  purchaser’s 
name  to  whom  it  was  sold.  And  it  shall  moreover  be  the  duty 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS;  &C. 


135 


of  the  said  sheriff,  to  give  to  each  purchaser  a  certificate  of  the 
sale  to  him,  which  shall  vest  the  title,  right,  claim  or  interest  of 
whatever  description,  of  all  and  every  person  or  persons  whom¬ 
soever,  in  him  completely  and  perfectly,  unless  the  property 
sold  shall  be  redeemed  in  manner  hereinafter  pointed  out. 

That  all  residents  shall  be  allowed  two  years  from  and  after 
the  day  of  sale,  to  redeem  their  property  sold  for  taxes,  by  pay¬ 
ing  the  price  the  same  sold  for,  with  one  hundred  per  centum 
thereon,  to  the  clerk  of  the  county  commissioner’s  court.  The 
non-residents  may  redeem  their  lands  by  paying  the  same  rate 
to  the  auditor  of  public  accounts,  within  two  years  from  the  day 
of  sale  ;  which  money  the  said  clerks  and  auditor  shall  pay  to 
the  respective  purchasers,  their  agents  or  attornies,  whenever 
required,  and  of  the  receipt  of  which  they  shall  keep  a  record 
in  their  respective  offices,  which  at  ail  times  shall  be  sufficient 
to  vacate  the  sales  aforesaid.  Provided  always ,  That  where 
any  property,  sold  for  taxes  by  virtue  of  this  act,  shall  belong 
to  heirs,  any  one  of  w  hom  is  not  of  lawful  age,  the  same  lands 
may  be  redeemed  as  aforesaid,  at  any  time  within  one  year  after 
the  youngest  heir  becomes  of  age 

That  the  auditor  of  public  accounts  be,  and  he  is  hereby  di¬ 
rected  to  postpone  the  further  collection  of  the  tax  which  may 
be  due  upon  the  lands  owned  by  non-residents  for  the  year 
eighteen  hundred  and  eighteen,  until  the  first  day  of  October 
next :  Provided ,  That  nothing  in  this  section  shall  prevent  the 
auditor  from  certifying  to  the  treasurer  the  amount  of  tax  re¬ 
maining  due  on  any  tract  of  land,  w  hen  required  by  the  owner. 

That  all  non-residents  who  shall,  by  themselves  or  agents, 
pay  into  the  treasury  of  the  state  the  full  amount  of  single  tax 
due  for  the  year  eighteen  hundred  and  eighteen,  and  for  every 
previous  year  for  which  tax  may  remain  due,  on  or  befor  e  the 
first  day  of  October  next,  shall  be  exempt  from  the  penalties  of 
the  territorial  laws,  laying  a  triple  tax  for  a  failure  to  list  their 
lands  with  the  auditor  of  public  accounts. 

That  each  and  every  non-resident  owning  lands  within  this 
state,  who  shall  fail  to  pay  the  tax  which  may  remain  due  and 
unpaid,  for  the  year  eighteen  hundred  and  eighteen,  as  well  as 
any  previous  year,  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  October  next, 
shall  be  subject  to  pay  triple  the  amount  of  the  tax  for  the  year 


136 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


eighteen  hundred  and  eighteen  ;  and  the  auditor  is  required  to 
proceed  against  such  delinquent,  agreeably  to  the  provisions  of 
this  act. 

That  all  lands  lying  within  the  military  tract  set  apart  by  flic 
United  States  for  the  bounty  lands,  upon  which  a  triple  tax  has 
been  paid,  except  such  as  have  been  advertised  and  sold  for  the 
tax  due  thereon,  shall  lie  allowed  a  credit  on  their  tax  list  for 
the  following  years,  for  the  sum  which  may  have  been  paid  over 
a  single  tax  ;  and  the  auditor  is  authorised  to  credit  all  such 
lands  on  his  books  accordingly. 

That  all  persons  who  may  hereafter  become  the  ow  ners  of  any 
Sands  lying  within  the  military  bounty  tract,  shall  be  allowed 
nine  months  from  the  date  of  such  purchase,  to  list  the  same  with 
the  auditor. 

Extract  from  a  law  of  the  state  of  Illinois ,  entitled  “  An  act  for 

the  relief  of  certain  persons ,  whose  lands ,  bank  stock ,  <$*c.  have 

been  sold  for  taxes,"  passed  January  31,  1821. 

That  all  persons,  whether  residents  or  non-residents  of  this 
state,  whose  lands  or  other  property  have  been  stricken  off  to 
the  state,  to  pay  the  triple  tax  incurred  by  the  owner  or  owners 
failing  or  neglecting  to  perform  any  of  the  requisites  prescribed 
in  the  above  act  of  the  27th  of  March  1819.  shall  be  allowed 
until  the  first  day  of  January  next  to  redeem  the  same,  by  pay¬ 
ing  into  the  state  treasury  the  amount  of  single  tax  to  which  the 
said  laud  or  other  property  would  have  been  liable  under  the 
provisions  of  the  above  mentioned  act,  the  costs  which  have  ac¬ 
crued  on  account  of  such  striking  off  to  the  state,  and  interest  at 
the  rate  of  six  per  cent  per  annum  on  said  single  tax  and  costs, 
from  the  time  the  said  taxes  should  respectively  have  been  paid, 
to  the  time  of  redemption.  Provided  however.  That  in  all  cases 
where  any  person  may  apply  to  the  auditor,  to  redeem  the  land 
or  other  property  that  may  have  been  sold  to  the  state  or  to  in¬ 
dividuals,  pursuant  to  the  provisions  of  the  act  before  mention¬ 
ed,  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  auditor  to  demand  of  such  person 
(and  certify  the  same  to  the  treasurer,  as  in  other  cases)  the 
amount  of  the  tex  that  said  land  or  other  property  would  have 
been  liable  to,  in  case  the  same  had  not  been  sold,  before  such 
person  applying  shall  be  permitted  to  redeem  the  same. 


137 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 

That  all  persons,  who  may  heretofore  have  redeemed  their 
lands  or  other  property  so  stricken  off  to  the  state,  by  paying 
the  price  the  same  sold  for,  with  one  hundred  per  centum  there¬ 
on,  to  the  clerk  of  the  county  commissioner’s  court,  or  to  the 
auditor,  and  the  other  costs  and  char  ges,  shall,  after  there  has 
been  deducted  from  the  sum  so  by  them  paid,  the  amount  of  the 
single  tax  to  which  such  land  or  other  property  was  of  right 
liable,  and  the  costs  of  sale,  and  sheriff’s  fees,  be  entitled  to  (and 
the  proper  officer  shall  enter  up)  a  credit  for  the  balance  then 
remaining  with  said  county  commissioners  or  auditor,  on  the 
books  respectively  kept  for  that  purpose;  and  the  sum  so  cre¬ 
dited  shall  he  considered  as  a  deposit,  and  may  be  applied  by 
the  owner  or  owners,  or  his  or  their  agent,  to  the  payment  of 
any  taxes  which  may  already  have  accrued,  or  which  may  here¬ 
after  accrue  upon  the  same,  or  upon  any  oilier  property  what¬ 
ever. 

That  in  all  cases  where  the  taxes  on  land  or  other  property 
of  non-resident  proprietors  or  owners,  have  been  paid  to  the 
sheriff  of  the  county  wherein  the  same  was  situated,  such  non¬ 
resident  proprietor  or  owner  shall  not  he  required  to  pay  the 
same  again,  but  shall,  upon  pr  esenting  said  sheriff’s  receipt  to 
the  auditor,  be  entitled  to  a  credit  on  his  books  for  the  taxes  so 
paid  to  the  sheriff  of  such  county,  for  the  particular  year. 

That  where  the  tax  or  taxes  on  the  land  or  other  property  of 
non-residents  have  been  paid  in  the  county  where  the  same  is 
situated,  and  the  same  land  sold  to  individuals,  or  stricken  off  to 
the  state,  for  the  triple  tax  incurred  by  such  non-residents  hav  ing 
failed  or  omitted  to  enter  the  same  with  the  proper  officer  at  the 
seat  of  government,  for  taxation,  it  shall  he  the  duty  of  the  au¬ 
ditor,  knowing  or  being  informed  of  any  such  case,  forthwith  to 
redeem  the  said  laud  or  other  property,  if  the  same  has  been 
sold  to  individuals  ;  and  if  stricken  off  to  the  state,  to  erase  the 
record  thereof;  in  both  cases  giving  the  owner  a  receipt  for  the 
payment  by  him  of  the  taxor  taxes  for  which  his  said  land  or 
other  property  was  so  sold  to  individuals,  or  stricken  off  to  the 
state. 

That  in  all  cases  where  resident  or  non-resident  owners  of 

land  in  this  state  have  redeemed  the  same  from  sale,  by  paying 

a  triple  tax,  sheriff’s  fees,  and  costs  of  advertising,  to  the  proper 

18 


138 


GAZETTEER  OE  ILLINOIS. 


officer,  as  provided  by  the  act  of  the  27th  March  1819,  above 
referred  to,  they  shall  have  a  credit  for  all  above  the  proper 
single  tax,  sheriff’s  fees,  and  costs  of  advertising,  which  may  he 
applied  by  such  resident  or  non-resident  owners,  or  their  agent,  in 
the  same  manner  as  is  permitted  by  the  second  section  of  this  act. 

That  all  persons,  whether  residents  or  non-residents,  who 
heretofore  have  redeemed,  or  hereafter  shall  redeem  their  lands 
from  sales  to  individuals,  under  the  provisions  of  the  above 
mentioned  act  of  1819,  shall  he  allowed  a  credit  for  so  much  of 
the  sum  paid  by  them  to  redeem  their  laud  or  other  property,  as 
shall  remain  after  deducting  therefrom  the  amount  of  single  tax 
or  taxes  which  may  or  shall  have  accrued  upon  such  land  or 
other  property,  with  interest  at  the  rate  of  six  per  centum  per 
annum,  from  the  time  when  such  taxes  became  due,  to  the  time 
of  redemption,  and  the  costs  of  sale  ;  which  credit  may  also  be 
applied  as  above  permitted. 

That  in  all  cases  where  land  or  other  property  have  been 
charged  with,  hut  not  as  yet  sold  for  a  triple  tax,  in  consequence 
of  the  owner  or  ow  ners  thereof  having  failed,  neglected  or  re¬ 
fused  to  comply  with  the  requisitions  of  the  act  of  the  27th  of 
March  aforesaid,  such  owner  or  owners  shall  be  exonerated 
from  the  payment  of  such  triple  tax,  by  paying  into  the  treasury 
of  the  state,  any  time  previous  to  the  first  day  of  January  next, 
the  lull  amount  of  single  tax  or  other  property,  together  with 
interest  thereon,  at  the  rate  of  six  per  centum  per  annum,  from 
the  tin  e  when  such  taxes  became  due,  to  the  time  of  their  pay¬ 
ment. 

That  no  sale  of  non-residents’  lands  or  other  property,  for 
taxes,  shall  take  place  until  the  first  day  of  January  next ;  and 
that  the  auditor  of  public  accounts  shall  cause  a  notice,  in  few 
words,  of  the  sale  on  that  day,  to  be  published  in  the  several 
newspapers  in  this  state,  and  in  the  following  places,  to  wit : 
Boston,  in  Massachusetts  ;  Nevv-Haven,  in  Connecticut;  New- 
York,  in  the  state  of  New-York  ;  Rutland,  in  Vermont ;  Phila¬ 
delphia,  in  Pennsylvania;  Washington  city,  in  the  district  of 
Columbia  ;  and  in  such  other  places  as  he  may  deem  necessary  : 
such  notice  to  he  published  six  weeks  in  succession,  at  least  five 
months  before  the  sale  ;  and  shall  further  give  six  weeks’  notice 
of  said  sale,  by  publishing,  in  the  paper  printed  at  the  scat  of 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  139 

government,  a  list  ot*  all  lands  and  bank  stock  liable  to  be  thus 
sold,  with  the  owners’  names,  and  amount  of  the  tax  and  costs 
due  thereon. 

Milton,  a  town  in  Madison  county,  situated  on  Wood  river, 
three  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  one  and  a  half  southeast  of  Al¬ 
ton.  It  contains  50  or  40  houses  ;  but  a  large  mill-pond  in  the 
centre  of  the  town  has  rendered  it  unhealthy,  and  prevented  its 
increase.  In  the  vicinity  are  a  number  of  mills  and  distilleries. 

Mill  creek,  a  small  stream,  running  a  southwest  course  through 
the  southwestern  part  of  Pike  county,  and  emptying  into  the 
Mississippi  in  section  12  of  township  3  south,  in  range  9,  west 
of  the  fourth  principal  meridian.  Its  banks  arc  low,  and  abound 
with  ponds. 

Monk  mound,  situated  on  the  American  bottom,  eight  miles 
north-northeast  from  St.  Louis.  Its  shape  is  that  of  a  parallelo¬ 
gram,  extending  from  north  to  south.  On  the  south  side  there 
is  a  broad  apron  or  step,  about  half  way  down  ;  and  from  this 
another  projection  into  the  plain,  about  15  feet  wide,  which  was 
probably  intended  as  an  ascent  to  the  mound.  The  circum¬ 
ference  of  the  base  of  the  mound  is  about  600  yards,  and  its 
height  about  90  feet.  The  step  or  apron  was  formerly  used  as 
a  kitchen  garden  by  the  monks  of  La  Trappe  settled  near  this, 
and  the  top  was  sowed  with  wheat.  Nearly  west  is  another 
mound  of  smaller  size,  and  thirty  others  are  scattered  through 
the  plain.  Two  also  are  seen  on  the  bluffs,  three  miles  distant. 
Several  of  them  are  of  a  conical  form.  There  are  also  a  great 
number  of  small  elevations  of  earth,  which  rise  to  the  height  of  a 
few  feet,  at  regular  distances  from  each  other,  and  which  appear 
to  observe  some  order.  Near  them  are  found  pieces  of  flint, 
and  fragments  of  earthen  vessels,  and  frequently  human  bones. 
The  mound  received  its  name  from  having  been  for  some  time 
the  residence  of  the  monks  of  La  Trappe.  “  This  monastery 
was  formerly  situated  in  the  province  of  Perche  in  France, 
in  one  of  the  most  solitary  spots  that  could  be  chosen.  It  was 
founded  in  1140,  by  Rotrou,  count  of  Perche.  This  monastery 
Fad  fallen  into  decay,  and  its  discipline  much  relaxed,  when  re¬ 
formed  by  the  Abbe  Ranee  in  1664.  Raucc  had  met  with  some 


140 


GAZETTEER  OE  ILLINOIS. 


misfortune  which  rendered  life  hateful  to  him — some  assert  the 

sudden  death  of  Madame  Montbazon,  whose  favourite  lover  he 

♦ 

had  been.  He  had  been  a  man  of  fashion,  and  possessed  of  some 
pretensions  to  literature  :  be  is  said  to  have  translated  the  poems 
of  Anacreon.  Into  this  monastery,  whither  he  came,  he  commen¬ 
ced  a  reform  of  the  most  sav  age  austerity.  S  he  vow  was  perpetual 
silence  ;  the  miserable  Trappist  denied  himself,  during  his  ex¬ 
istence,  every  comfort  of  life.  He  laid  himself  on  a  stone,  and 
was  frequently  called  in  the  dead  of  night  to  his  devotions.  His 
food  was  bread  and  water,  and  this  but  once. in  24  hours.  Each 
day  he  was  to  remove  from  his  intended  grave  one  spadeful  of 
earth,  in  order  to  keep  ever  present  to  his  mind  that  he  must 
soon  cease  to  be  of  this  world. 9 — ( Breckenridge.J 

Some  years  sine  e,  a  few  of  these  miserable  beings  came  to  the 
United  States,  and  having  stopped  a  short  time  in  Kentucky, 
removed  to  Florissant  near  St.  Louis,  and  from  thence  to  the 
place  above  described.  By  their  industry,  they  here  raised  a 
sufficiency  for  their  own  support  Their  number  gradually  in¬ 
creased,  and  at  one  time  amounted  to  eighty,  including  boys. 
Upon  the  accession  of  Louis  18th  to  the  throne  of  France,  they 
returned  to  their  native  country.  Nothing  now  remains,  except 
the  ruins  of  their  former  habitations. 

Monroe ,  a  town  in  Pike  county,  laid  out  in  1820.  It  is  situat¬ 
ed  on  the  first  high  ground  above  the  junction  of  the  Illinois  and 
Mississippi  livers,  on  the  borders  of  a  prairie  about  one  mile  in 
width,  and  within  half  a  mile  of  a  good  steam  boat  landing.  In 
the  vicinity,  are  several  good  stone  quarries,  good  timber,  and 
many  line  springs  of  water.  Withiilhalf  a  mile  of  the  town  is 
a  good  mil)  seat.  From  the  town  to  the  river,  there  is  a  gradu¬ 
al  descent.  The  situation  of  this  place,  near  the  confluence  of 
three  of  the  largest  streams  in  the  western  country,  must  secure 
to  it  important  commercial  advantages. 

Monroe  is  situated  in  section  25,  of  township  12  south,  in 
range  2,  west  of  the  fourth  principal  meridian,  SO  miles  north¬ 
west  of  St.  Louis,  and  10  from  St.  Charles. 

Mound  Prairie ,  is  situated  in  Madison  county,  ten  miles  south¬ 
east  of  the  junction  of  the  Illinois  with  the  Mississippi,  and  con- 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS',  &C. 


141 


tains  a  flourishing  settlement.  The  prairie  is  from  four  to  six 
miles  in  length,  surrounded  by  a  tlib  k  growth  of  timber.  The 
soil  is  of  the  best  quality,  and  the  surface  is  undulating,  present¬ 
ing  the  most  eligible  situation  to  the  agriculturalist. 

Mount  Carmel ,  a  post  town  in  Edwards  county,  situated  on  the 
west  side  of  the  Wabash,  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  White  ri¬ 
ver,  in  section  20,  of  township  1  south,  in  range  12,  west  of  the 
2d  principal  meridian.  * 

Mount  Joliet ,  a  mound  situated  on  the  west  hank  of  Riviere 
des  Plaines,  about  16  or  18  miles  above  its  junction  with  the 
Kankakee.  It  is  3  or  400  yards  in  length,  north  and  south,  and 
2  or  300  in  breadth,  east  and  west,  it  is  in  the  form  of  a  pyr¬ 
amid,  and  is  evidently  the  work  of  art.  From  the  river,  it  ap¬ 
pears  nearly  square.  The  companions  of  Joliet,  who  visited  this 
country  in  1673,  gave  it  this  name.  It  is  about  150  miles  above 
Fort  Clark. 

Mount  Pleasant ,  a  small  settlement,  one  mile  southwest  of  Car- 
ralton,  the  seat  of  justice  in  Greene  county.  Its  inhabitants 
consist  principally  of  persons  from  the  eastern  states. 

Mount  Vernon ,  a  post  tow  n,  and  the  county  seat  of  Jefferson, 
situated  in  section  29,  of  township  2  south,  in  range  3  east  of  the 
third  principal  meridian.  It  is  in  latitude  38°  20'  north,  40  miles 
south-southeast  from  Vandalia. 

Morcaweqna  creek ,  ( sooth  fork  of  Sangamo,J  a  small  stream 
running  a  northwesterly  course,  and  emptying  into  the  Sariga- 
mo  river  on  the  left  side,  a  short  distance  above  Brush  creek. — 
On  an  east  fork  of  this  stream,  is  a  rock  five  feet  in  height,  and 
twenty-four  in  circumference,  to  which  the  natives  pay  homage? 
by  depositing  on  it  some  tobacco  or  paint. 

Mud  creek ,  a  small  stream  running,  a  northwesterly  course 
through  the  counties  of  Washington  and  St.  Clair,  and  emptying 
into  the  Kaskaskia  on  the  leftside,  40  miles  above  its  mouth,  in 
township  2  south,  in  range  6,  west  of  the  third  principal  merid- 


142 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


Muddy  saline ,  situated  on  the  Muddy  river  near  Brownsville, 
the  county  seat  of  Jackson.  It  is  owned,  and  has  been  leased  by 
the  state  to  different  individuals. 

Otter  creek ,  a  small  but  beautiful  stream  of  Greene  county,  run¬ 
ning  in  a  westerly  direction,  and  emptying  into  the  Illinois  about 
18  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi,  in  section  6,  of 
township  7  north,  in  range  13,  west  of  the  third  principal  merid¬ 
ian,  opposite  section  23,  of  township  11  south,  in  range  2,  west 
of  the  4th  principal  meridian. 

Otter  creek,  a  stream  of  Pike  county,  rises  in  township  4 
north,  in  range  1,  east  of  the  4th  principal  meridian,  and  running 
a  soul  beast  course,  empties  into  the  Illinois,  130  miles  above 
its  mouth,  in  section  22,  of  township  3  north,  in  range  3,  east  of 
the  fourth  principal  meridian.  In  high  v\ater  it  is  navigable  for 
a  short  distance,  but  is  much  obstructed  with  drift  wood.  On 
the  banks  of  this  stream,  are  several  advantageous  situations 
for  settlement.  There  is  a  mill  seat  about  10  miles  from  its 
mouth.  The  lands  in  this  vicinity  are  first  rate,  and  contain  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  timber  for  the  supply  of  a  saw-mill.  Lum¬ 
ber  might  be  sent  down  the  Illinois  to  St.  Louis,  where  it  gener¬ 
ally  commands  a  good  price.  Coal  is  found  in  abundance  on  the 
banks  of  this  stream. 

Oxford ,  a  post  town  in  Hamilton  county,  situated  in  section 
22,  of  township  3  south,  in  range  5,  east  of  the  third  principal 
meridian. 

Ovid ,  a  town  in  Jackson  county,  laid  out  in  1820.  It  is  sit¬ 
uated  eight  miles  east  of  the  Mississippi  river,  near  the  line 
which  divides  Jackson  and  Union  counties.  The  main  road 
leading  from  America  and  Golconda  through  Jonesborough  and 
Brownsville,  to  Kaskaskia  and  St.  Louis,  passes  through  this 
place.  It  is  15  miles  south  of  Brownsville,  and  about  the  same 
distance  nearly  north  of  Jonesborough.  The  lands  in  the  vicin¬ 
ity,  are  of  a  very  good  quality,  and  mill  seats  are  numerous  with¬ 
in  a  few  miles  of  the  place. 

Paddock9s  settlement ,  a  small  settlement,  seven  miles  north  of 
Edwardsvillc,  on  the  main  road  between  that  place  and  Fort 
Clark. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


143 


Palestine ,  a  post  town,  and  the  county  seat  of  Crawford,  situ¬ 
ated  three  miles  west  of  the  Wabash  river,  in  sections  S3  and  34 
of  township  7  north,  in  range  11,  west  of  the  second  principal 
meridian,  25  miles  north  of  Vincennes.  Here  is  the  register’s 
and  receiver’s  office  for  the  land  district  of  Palestine. 

This  town  is  in  latitude  38°  58'  north,  82  miles  nearly  due 
east  from  Vandalia. 

Palmyra ,  a  post  town,  and  formerly  the  county  seat  of  Ed¬ 
wards.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Wabash,  in  sec¬ 
tion  31,  of  township  1  south,  in  range  12,  west  of  the  2d  princi¬ 
pal  meridian,  20  miles  southwest  of  Vincennes.  It  is  considered 
very  unhealthy,  and  on  this  account  the  county  seat  was  remov¬ 
ed  to  Albion. 

Peoria9  a  small  settlement  in  Pike  county,  situated  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Illinois  river,  about  200  miles  above  its  junction 
with  the  Mississippi.  66  The  old  village  of  Peoria  was  situated 
about  one  mile  and  a  half  above  the  lower  extremity  or  outlet  of 
the  Peoria  lake.  This  village  had  been  inhabited  by  the  French 
previous  to  the  recollection  of  any  of  the  present  generation. 
About  the  year  1778  or  1779,  the  first  house  was  built  in  what 
was  then  called  La  Ville  de  Maillet,  afterwards  the  new  village 
of  Peoria,  and  which  has  recently  been  known  by  the  name  of 
Fort  Clark,  situated  about  one  mile  and  a  half  below  the  old 
village,  immediately  at  the  lower  point  or  outlet  of  the  lake. 
The  situation  being  preferred  in  consequence  of  the  w  ater  being 
better,  and  its  being  thought  more  healthy,  the  inhabitants  gra¬ 
dually  deserted  the  old  village,  and  by  the  year  1796  or  1797. 
had  entirely  abandoned  it,  and  removed  to  the  new  village. 

The  inhabitants  of  Peoria  consisted  generally  of  Indian  tra¬ 
ders,  hunters  and  voyageurs,  and  had  long  formed  a  link  of 
connection  between  the  French  residing  on  the  waters  of  the 
great  lakes,  and  the  Mississippi  river.  From  that  happy  facility 
of  adapting  themselves  to  their  situation  and  associates,  for 
which  the  French  are  so  remarkable,  the  inhabitants  of  Peoria 
lived  generally  in  harmony  with  their  savage  neighbours.  It 
appears,  however,  that  about  the  year  1781,  they  were  induced 
to  abandon  the  village,  from  the  apprehension  of  Indian  hosti¬ 
lity  i  but  soon  after  the  peace  of  1783,  they  again  returned,  and 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


continued  to  reside  there  until  the  autumn  of  1812,  when  they 
were  forcibly  removed  from  it,  and  the  place  destroyed  by  a 
Captain  Craig,  of  tbe  Illinois  militia,  on  the  ground,  as  it  was 
said,  that  his  company  of  militia  were  fired  on  in  the  night, 
while  at  anchor  in  their  boats  before  the  village,  by  Indians, 
with  whom  the  inhabitants  were  suspected  by  Craig  to  be  too 
intimate  and  friendly.”*  The  poor  inhabitants,  being  thus  de¬ 
prived  of  shelter,  fled  for  refuge  to  the  different  villages  on  the 
Mississippi. 

In  September,  1813,  General  Howard  marched,  with  about 
1400  men,  from  Portage  des  Sioux,  for  Peoria.  The  regulars, 
who  manned  the  boats,  arrived,  and  commenced  building  a 
block-house,  which  they  named  Fort  Clark,  in  honour  of  Gen. 
George  Rogers  Clark.  General  Howard,  with  his  mounted 
rangers,  ascended  the  Mississippi  as  high  as  Two  Rivers,  and 
then  crossed  over  to  the  Illinois.  By  this  judicious  plan,  the 
■whole  frontier  was  swept  of  the  enemy,  who  was  continually 
harassing  them- 

On  the  29th  of  September,  the  general  arrived  at  Fort  Clark. 
The  Indians  had  attacked  it  two  days  before  ;  but  Lieut.  Col. 
Nicholas,  who  commanded,  gave  them  so  warm  a  reception  that 
they  soon  retired.  It  was  concluded  that  they  had  gone  to 
Gorno’s  town,  about  thirty  miles  distant.  The  general  imme¬ 
diately  made  arrangements,  and  marched  the  next  morning  to 
attack  it.  When  he  arrived,  he  found  the  enemy  had  taken 
w  ater  and  ascended  the  Illinois.  He  burnt  the  village,  and  tw  o 
others,  and  remained  in  the  vicinity  for  two  nights.  He  then 
marched  back  to  Peoria,  to  assist  the  regulars  in  building  Fort 
Clark,  w  hich  had  been  commenced  and  christened  previous  to 
his  arrival. 

With  considerable  labour,  they  cut  and  hauled  the  necessary 
timber  across  the  lake,  and  the  fort  w  as  in  a  complete  state  of 
defence  in  twelve  days.  While  they  were  engaged  about  the 
fort,  Majors  Christy  and  Boone  were  detached  on  separate 
commands.  Maj.  C.  w  as  ordered  to  ascend  the  river,  in  two 

•'■'See  a  report  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  in  conformity  with  the  provisions  of  the  act  of 
loth  May,  1820,  for  the  relief  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  of  Peoria  in  the  state  of  Illinois,  by 
Edward  (Joies,  Esq.  formerly  register  of  the  land-cilice  at  Edwardsyille,  and  now  governor  of  flu- 
slate  oflliinois. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


145 


armed  boats,  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  (about  SO  miles)  to  ascer¬ 
tain  if  the  Indians  had  embodied,  or  formed  an}’  new  establish¬ 
ments  in  that  quarter.  Maj.  Boone  was  sent  over  in  the  direc¬ 
tion  of  Rock  river,  to  collect  every  necessary  information  con¬ 
cerning  their  traces,  &c.  Both  these  officers  returned  in  five  or 
six  days,  and  reported  that  the  enemy  had  fled  at  all  points. 

Soon  after  this  the  weather  became  cold,  and  as  no  provision 
had  been  made  for  a  winter  campaign,  Gen.  Howard  determined 
on  returning;  and  accordingly  took  up  his  line  of  march  on  the 
15th  of  October*  leaving  a  small  garrison  in  the  fort. 

About  the  termination  of  the  war,  Fort  Clark  was  abandoned 
by  the  Americans  ;  and  a  short  time  afterwards,  it  was  burnt  by 
the  Indians,  as  they  assert,  through  the  instigation  of  the  tra¬ 
ders.  A  settlement  has  been  recommenced  near  its  ruins. 

The  situation  of  this  place  is  beautiful  beyond  description. 
From  the  mouth  of  the  Kickapoo  or  Redbud  creek,  which  emp¬ 
ties  into  the  Illinois  two  miles  below  the  old  fort,  the  alluvion  is 
a  prairie,  which  stretches  itself  along  the  river  in  a  northwest¬ 
erly  direction  three  or  four  miles.  The  shore  is  chiefly  made 
up  of  rounded  pebbles,  and  is  fdled  with  springs  of  tiie  finest 
water.  The  first  bank,  which  is  from  six  to  twelve  feet  above 
high  water  mark,  extends  west  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
the  river,  gradually  ascending  ;  when  it  rises  five  or  six  feet  to 
the  second  bank.  This  extends  nearly  on  a  level  to  the  bluffs, 
which  are  from  60  to  100  feet  in  height.  These  bluffs  consist  of 
rounded  pebbles  overlaying  strata  of  limestone  and  sandstone, 
rounded  at  the  top,  and  corresponding  in  their  course  with  the 
meanders  of  the  river  and  lake-  The  ascent,  although  steep,  is 
not  perpendicular.  On  the  bluffs  the  surface  again  becomes 
level,  and  is  beautifully  interspersed  with  prairie  and  woodland. 

From  the  bluffs  the  prospect  is  uncommonly  fine.  Looking 
towards  the  east,  you  first  behold  an  extensive  prairie,  which  in 
spring  and  summer  is  covered  with  grass,  with  whose  green  the 
brilliant  hues  of  a  thousand  flowers  form  the  most  lively  contrast. 
Beyond  this,  the  lake,  clear  and  calm,  may  be  seen  emptying 
itself  into,  or  by  its  contraction  forming  the  river,  whose  me¬ 
anders,  only  hid  from  the  view  by  the  beautiful  groves  of  tim¬ 
ber  which  here  and  there  arise,  can  be  traced  to  the  utmost 
extent  of  vision. 


19 


146 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS, 


From  the  preceding  description,  it  may  be  inferred  that  this 
section  of  country  is  not  very  rich  in  minerals.  Coal ,  however, 
is  abundant  on  the  hanks  of  Kiekapoo  creek,  about  one  mile 
above  its  mouth.  It  was  first  discovered  by  the  soldiers  station¬ 
ed  at  the  fort,  and  being  of  a  good  quality,  was  used  by  them 
for  fuel.  It  is  found  12  or  14  feet  below  the  surface;  is  over¬ 
laid  by  slate,  limestone  and  sandstone,  and  contains  vegetable 


remains. 

Steatite  is  found  on  the  banks  of  Lake  Peoria,  a  few  miles 
above  the  fort,  and  is  wrought  by  the  natives  into  pipes  ami 
other  utensils.  It  is  of  a  dark  green  colour,  and  ha  rdens  on 
exposure. 

It  is  probable  that  copper  exists  in  this  vicinity  ;  for  a  grant 
made  by  the  king  of  France  to  M.  Renault,  at  the  old  village  ot 


Peoria,  embraces  a  copper  mine.  The  Indians  frequently  ex¬ 
hibit  specimens  of  copper  to  the  traders,  but  are  unwilling  to 
give  their  locality.  Those  which  I  have  seen  are  native,  in  the 
form  of  rounded  malleable  masses  #  They  are  said  to  have 
been  found  on  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and  therefore  afford  no 
evidence  of  a  vein  of  the  ore  in  the  vicinity,  any  more  than  the 
masses  of  granite  which  are  found  every  where  on  the  prairie, 
of  t  lie  existence  of  a  primary  formation  in  their  immediate  vi¬ 
cinity. 

The  climate  of  this  place  is  much  influenced  by  its  peculiar 
situation.  There  is  generally  a  fine  current  of  air  sweeping 
through  the  valley  of  the  river,  either  from  the  north  or  south — 
South  winds,  which  are  by  far  the  most  common,  are  generally 
pleasant.  Winds  from  the  north  aiul  northwest,  generally  hung 
cold  weather,  and  those  from  the  east  and  northeast,  are  pre¬ 
sages  of  storms. 


*1  visited  Fort  Clark  in  1G20,  and  obtained  a  specimen  of  native  copper  found  in  its  vicinity.  It 
■Weighs  about  two  pounds,  and  is  similar  to  that  found  on  Lake  Superior,  of  which  the  following 
description  was  given  at  the  mint  of  Utrecht  in  the  Netherlands,  at  the  request  of  Dr.  Lusiis : 

“From  every  appearance,  the  piece  of  copper  seems  to  have  been  taken  from  a  mass  that  has 
undergone  fusion.  The  melting  was,  however,  not  an  operation  of  art,  but  a  natural  effect  caused 
by  a  volcanic  eruption. 

The  stream  of  lava  probably  canned  along  in  its  course  the  aforesaid  body  of  copper,  that  had 
formed  into  one  collection,  as  fast  as  it  was  heated  enough  to  run,  from  all  parts  of  the  n.ine.  The 
’-{Biled  mass  was  probably  borne  in  this  manner  to  the  place  vv  here  it  now  rests  ;n  the  soil .” 

Phillips'  Mineralogy^  Amtr.  Ed-p.  191,  note 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


147 


The  diseases  which  prevail  here,  are  such  as  are  {'ound  in  all 
newly  settled  countries.  A  few  cases  of  intermittent  and  remit¬ 
tent  fever  have  occurred,  occasioned,  probably,  by  heat  succeed¬ 
ing  to  heavy  rains,  which  inundated  the  alluvion  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river. 

The  country  in  the  v  icinity  of  Fort  Clark,  presents  many  in¬ 
ducements  to  emigrants.  On  the  west  side,  the  valleys  of  the 
Illinois  and  Spoon  rivers,  and  the  tract  of  country  forming  the  ta¬ 
ble  land  between  them,  are  celebrated  for  their  beauty  and  fer- 
tility,  and  are  calculated  to  support  a  very  dense  population.— 
On  the  east  side,  directly  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  laige 
growth  of  timber,  consisting  principally  of  oak,  hicory,  walnut, 
pecan,  maple,  &c.  which  extends  east  about  half  a  mile.  Pro¬ 
ceeding  still  farther  east,  vve  reach  a  prairie,  upon  which  is  the 
Bachelor’s  Run  settlement.  The  soil  here  is  a  rich  loam,  about 
10  or  12  feet  deep,  and  of  such  a  nature,  that  it  requires  very 
little  labor  to  prepare  it  for  the  reception  of  seed,  in  a  southeas¬ 
terly  direction  from  this,  you  reach  the  Sangatito  country,  which 
lias  already  been  described. 

Peoria ,  a  town  of  Pike  county,  laid  out  in  the  spring  of  1820, 
oil  set  lion  8,  of  township  8  north,  in  range  8,  east  of  the  fourth 
princ  ipal  meridian,  about  half  a  mile  south  of  the  ruins  of  Fort 
Clark.  No  improvement  has  as  yet  been  made,  but  from  its  lo¬ 
cal  advantages,  and  the  fertility  of  the  surrounding  country, 
there  is  no  doubt  but  it  will  become  a  place  of  the  first  conse¬ 
quence. 


Peoria  lake ,  see  Illinois  lake . 

Perryville ,  a  post  town  in  Fayette  county,  situated  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Hurricane  fork  of  the  Raskaskia  river,  in  sections 
5  and  6,  of  township  4  north,  in  range  1,  west  of  the  third  prin¬ 
cipal  meridian.  It  was  formerly  the  county  seat  of  Bond,  but 
upon  the  erection  of  the  new  county  of  Fayette,  Greenville  was 
substituted.  Commissioners  were  appointed  to  assess  the  dam¬ 
age  done  to  Perryville,  in  consequence  of  the  removal.  It  is  a 
very  trilling  place,  containing  only  about  12  or  15  houses. 


Petersburgh ,  a  town  in 


St.  Clair  county,  situated  on  Silver 


148 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


creek,  in  section  24,  of  township  1  north,  in  range  7,  west  of  the 
third  principal  meridian,  about  12  miles  east  of  Belleville. 

Pickamink  river ,  see  Canawnga . 

Plumb  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Randolph  county,  rises  in  town¬ 
ship  4  south,  in  range  5,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian,  and 
running  in  a  southwest  direction  ten  or  twelve  miles,  empties 
into  the  Kaskaskia  river  on  the  left  side,  a  short  distance  above 
Ilorsc  creek. 

Pope's  river ,  a  considerable  stream  in  the  northern  part  of 
Pike  county,  it  rises  in  township  14  no  rth,  in  range  1,  west  of 
the  4th  principal  meridian,  and  running  in  a  westerly  direction 
about  30  miles,  empties  into  the  Mississippi  on  the  left  side,  in 
section  34,  of  township  IS  north,  in  range  5,  west  of  the  4th  prin¬ 
cipal  meridian,  A  great  proportion  of  the  land  on  this  stream 
is  prairie. 

Portage  creek,  a  small  stream  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state. 
It  rises  about  seven  miles  east  of  Lake  Michigan,  runs  in  a 
southerly  direction,  and  empties  into  the  Riviere  des  Plaines, 
on  the  left  side,  twelve  miles  west  of  Chicago. 

Portland ,  a  town  in  Randolph  county,  laid  out  in  1819,  on  sec¬ 
tions  23  and  14,  in  township  7  south,  in  range  7  west  of  the  3d 
principal  meridian,  being  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Kaskaskia  ri¬ 
ver,  at  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi.  This  is  perhaps  the 
Lest  town  site  on  the  Illinois  side  of  the  Mississippi,  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio  to  Alton.  The  situation  is  high  and  healthy. 
It  is  supplied  with  a  number  of  fine  springs,  and  the  vicinity  fur¬ 
nishes  building  materials  and  fuel  in  great  abundance.  The 
shore  at  tiiis  place  is  hold  and  rocky,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Kas¬ 
kaskia  furnishes  What  is  very  rare  on  the  Mississippi — a  good 
harbor  for  boats  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  The  first  building 
was  erected  here  in  the  spring  of  1820,  and  there  is  now  in  oper¬ 
ation  an  ox,  saw  and  grist  mill,  whic  h  are  not  only  useful  to  the 
inhabitants,  but  profitable  to  the  enterprising  proprietor.  This 
place  also  contains  a  number  of  good  mechanics  of  different 
kinds.  A  large  ware  house  has  also  been  erected  here. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


149 


From  the  ease  with  whirl)  produce  ciin  he  shipped  to 
this  place,  and  the  constant  intercourse  which  may  be  had  be¬ 
tween  it  and  New-Orleans,  it  bids  fair  to  become  (he  principal 
depot  of  the  country,  watered  by  the  Kaskaskia  and  its  tributa¬ 
ries. 

Prairie  du  Long  creek,  a  trifling  stream  of  St.  Clair  county. 
It  runs  in  a  southeast  direction,  unites  w  ith  Richland  creek,  and 
empties  into  the  Kaskaskia,  in  section  30,  of  township  3  south, 
in  range  7,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian. 

Prairie  du  Pont ,  a  small  village  in  St.  Clair  county,  one  mile 
south  of  Cahokia.  It  contains  a  few  houses,  which  are  generally 
in  a  state  of  decay.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  French.  Like 
the  other  French  villages,  it  has  a  common  field  in  the  vicinity. 
This  place  was  settled  about  the  same  time  with  Cahokia. 

Prairie  du  Pont  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  St.  Clair  county,  ris¬ 
es  in  a  pond  under  the  bluff  of  the  American  bottom,  and  run¬ 
ning  a  devious  course  south  and  west,  empties  into  the  Missis¬ 
sippi,  two  miles  below  Cahokia. 

Prairie  du  Rocher ,  an  incorporated  post  village  in  Randolph 
county,  on  the  American  bottom,  near  the  rocky  bluff,  from 
whence  it  derives  its  name,  twelve  miles  northwest  of  Kaskaskia. 
It  was  settled  by  the  French  about  the  same  time  with  the  other 
villages  on  the  Mississippi.  Its  situation  is  low  and  unhealthy, 
and  during  wet  seasons  is  very  disagreeable.  The  houses  are 
generally  built  in  the  French  style,  and  the  inhabitants  are,  with 
few  exceptions,  poor  and  illiterate.  The  streets  are  very  nar¬ 
row  and  dirty.  Here  is  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  which  is  its 
only  public  building.  In  the  vicinity,  is  an  extensive  common, 
which  is  attached  to  the  \illage,  and  is  under  the  controui  of  the 
trustees. 

Prairie  du  Rocher,  in  1766,  contained  14  families;  at  present, 
between  30  and  40.  It  is  about  three  miles  east  of  the  Missis¬ 
sippi,  and  50  miles  south  of  St.  Louis.  Few  Americans  have 
as  yet  disturbed  the  repose  of  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  this 


150 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


place,  nor  is  it  probable  they  ever  will,  as  it  possesses  no  advan¬ 
tages,  and  is  withal  very  unhealthy. 

Rainy  river ,  a  small  stream*  runs  a  west  course,  and  empties 
into  the  Illinois  river  on  the  left  side,  near  the  head  of  Lake  Pe¬ 
oria. 

Red  bud  creek ,  see  Kickapoo  creek. 

Rejoicing  creek*  heads  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the  state, 
and  running  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  empties  into  the  Wa¬ 
bash,  between  Fort  Harrison  and  Tippecanoe  rivers,  in  the  state 
of  Indiana.  At  its  mouth  it  is  about  100  yards  in  width. 

Richland  creek9  a  small  stream,  emptying  into  the  Sangamo 
river,  below  the  south  fork.  Its  course  is  about  north.  The 
country  on  the  banks  of  this  stream  is  very  fertile,  and  is  settling 
rapidly. 

Richland  creek ,  an  inconsiderable  stream  of  St.  Clair  county, 
runs  in  a  southerly  direction,  and  after  uniting  with  Prairie  du 
Long  creek,  in  section  22,  of  township  3  south,  in  iange  8,  west 
of  the  third  principal  meridian,  empties  into  the  Kaskaskia  riv¬ 
er  on  the  right  side.  Iron  ore  of  a  good  quality  has  been  found 
on  the  hanks  of  this  stream. 

Ridge  prairie ,  so  called  from  the  appearance  of  its  surface.  It 
is  several  miles  in  extent,  and  is  hounded  on  all  sides  by  fine 
timber.  Such  is  the  fertility  of  its  soil,  and  the  pleasantness  of 
its  situation  that  it  already  contains  a  flourishing  settlement.  It 
is  situated  in  Madison  county. 

Ripley ,  a  town  in  Bond  county,  situated  on  Shoal  creek,  a 
branch  of  the  Kaskaskia  river,  S3  miles  east  of  the  Mississippi, 
in  section  9  of  township  5  north,  in  range  4,  west  of  the  third 
principal  meridian.  This  place  possesses  few  advantages,  and 
it  is  riot  probable  that  it  will  ever  become  of  much  import¬ 
ance.  Scarcely  any  improvement  has  as  yet  been  made  here, 
and  had  it  not  been  staked  off  into  squares  and  lots,  it  would 
never  be  noticed  as  a  town.  The  laud  in  the  vicinity  is  gene¬ 
rally  fertile.  The  road  from  St.  Louis  to  Vandalia  passes 
through  this  place. 


151 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &G. 

Riviere  au  Feve ,  see  Bean  river. 

Riviere  ties  Iroquois,  see  Canawaga . 

Riviere  des  Plaines ,  a  considerable  stream  in  the  northeastern 
part  of  the  state.  It  rises  in  the  low  lands  bordering  on  Lake 
Michigan,  has  a  southern  and  southwestern  course,  and  by  its 
union  with  the  Theakiki,  forms  the  Illinois.  The  valley  of  the 
river,  which  is  generally  about  one  mile  in  width,  is  in  the  form 
of  an  inverted  cone,  terminated  on  both  sides  by  regular  banks, 
nearly  parallel  to  each  other.  In  ascending  the  river,  the  hanks 
gradually  decrease  in  height,  and  at  the  distance  of  thirty  or 
forty  miles  up  the  river,  they  form  right  angles  w  ith  the  course 
of  the  river — that  on  the  right  taking  an  easterly,  and  that  on 
the  west  a  northwesterly  course.*  They  then  form  an  extensive 
curve,  encircling  a  large  tract  of  flat  prairie.  This  in  summer 
is  dry,  but  in  the  spring,  during  high  water,  is  a  lake  of  about 
twenty  miles  in  area.  This  lake  communicates  with  both  the 
Riviere  des  Plaines  and  Chicago  rivers,  by  means  of  a  canal, 
which  has  been  made  partly  by  the  current  of  the  water,  and 
partly  by  the  French  and  Indians,  for  the  purpose  of  getting 
their  boats  across  in  high  water.  The  distance  from  the  Riviere 
des  Plaines  at  the  mouth  of  Portage  creek,  to  Chicago,  is  twelve 
miles ;  but  from  the  head  of  the  creek  to  the  head  of  Chicago 
river,  it  is  only  three  miles.  In  wet  seasons,  boats  of  consi¬ 
derable  burthen  pass  from  Lake  Michigan  to  the  Illinois  river, 
with  the  greatest  ease.f 

In  the  bed  of  the  Des  Plaines,  about  forty  rods  above  its 
junction  with  the  Theakiki,  there  is  a  fossil  tree ,  of  a  very  con¬ 
siderable  size.  The  following  description  of  it  is  given  by  Mr. 

H.  R.  Schoolcraft,  in  a  memoir  read  before  the  American  geo¬ 
logical  society,  in  1821  : 

This  extraordinary  species  of  phytolites  occurs,  imbedded 
in  a  horizontal  position,  in  a  stratum  of  newer  ficetz  sandstone, 
of  a  grey  colour  and  close  grain.  There  are  now  fifty-one  feet 
six  inches  of  the  trunk  visible.  It  is  eighteen  inches  in  diameter 

*See  a  report  made  to  the  war  office  in  1819,  by  L.  H.  Long,  major  of  topographical  engineers, 
extracted  in  N.  11.  Van  Zant’s  description  of  the  Illinois  territory, 
t  The  practicability  of  uniting  them  by  means  el  a  canal,  is  treated  of  in  the  General  Fiezu,  page 

I, 8,  et  seq. 


152 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


at  the  smallest  end,  which  appears  to  have  been  violently  broken 
off  prior  to  the  era  of  its  mineralization.  The  root  end  is  still 
overlaid  by  the  rock  and  earth  of  the  western  bank  of  the  river, 
and  is  two  feet  six  inches  in  diameter  at  the  point  of  disappear¬ 
ance  ;  but  circumstances  will  justify  the  conclusion,  that  its 
diameter  at  the  concealed  end  cannot  be  less  than  three  feet. 
The  trunk  is  straight,  simple,  scabrous,  without  branches,  and 
lias  the  gradual  longitudinal  taper  observed  in  the  living  speci¬ 
men.  it  lies  nearly  at  right  angles  to  the  course  of  the  river, 
pointing  towards  the  southeast,  and  extends  about  half  the  width 
of  the  stream.  Notwithstanding  the  continual  abrasion  to  which 
it  is  exposed  by  the  volume  of  passing  water,  it  has  suffered 
little  apparent  diminution,  and  is  still  firmly  imbedded  in  the 
rock,  with  the  exception  of  two  or  three  places  where  the  por¬ 
tions  of  it  have  been  disengaged  and  carried  away  ;  but  no  por¬ 
tion  of  what  remains  is  elevated  more  than  a  few  inches  above 
the  surface  of  the  rock.  It  is  owing,  however,  to  these  partial 
disturbances,  that  we  are  enabled  to  perceive  the  columnar  for¬ 
mation  of  the  trunk,  its  cortical  layers,  the  bark  by  which  it  is 
enveloped,  and  the  peculiar  cross  fracture,  which  unite  to  render 
the  evidence  of  its  ligneous  origin  so  striking  and  complete. 
From  these  characters  and  appearances,  little  doubt  can  remain 
that  it  is  referable  to  the  species  jugtans  nigra ,  a  tree  very 
common  to  the  forests  of  the  Illinois,  as  well  as  to  most  other 
parts  of  the  immense  region  drained  by  the  waters  of  the.  Mis¬ 
sissippi.  The  woody  structure  is  most  obvious  in  the  outer 
rind  of  the  trunk,  extending  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three  inches, 
and  these  appearances  become  less  evident  as  we  approximate 
the  heart.  Indeed,  the  traces  of  organic  structure  in  the  inte¬ 
rior,  particularly  when  viewed  in  the  hand  specimen,  are  almost 
totally  obliterated  and  exchanged,  the  vegetable  matter  being 
replaced  by  a  mixed  substance,  analogous  in  its  external  cha¬ 
racter  to  some  of  the  silicated  and  impure  calcareous  carbonats 
of  the  region.  Like  those  carbonats,  it  is  of  a  brownish  grey 
colour  and  compact  texture,  effervesces  slightly  in  the  nitric 
and  muriatic  acids,  yields  a  white  streak  under  the  knife,  and 
presents  solitary  points  or  facets  of  crystals  resembling  calc 
spar.  All  parts  of  the  tree  are  penetrated  by  pyrites  of  a  brass 
yellow  colour,  disseminated  through  the  most  solid  and  stony 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


153 


parts  of  the  interior,  filling  interstices  in  the  enter  rind,  or  in¬ 
vesting  its  capillary  pores.  There  are  also  the  appearance  of 
rents  or  seams  between  the  fibres  of  the  wood,  caused  by  its  own 
shrinkage,  which  are  now  filled  with  a  carbonat  of  lime,  of  a 
white  colour,  and  crystallized.’'* 

Riviere  da  Page ,  a  considerable  stream  in  the  northeastern 
part  of  the  state.  It  rises  a  few  miles  west  of  the  Riviere  d<  s 
Plaines,  and  running  a  south  course,  empties  into  it  six  miles 
above  its  junction  with  the  Theakiki.  It  is  about  40  miles  in 
length. 

•  # 

Riviere  la  Mine ,  see  Crooked  creek . 

Rock  river ,  a  large  stream  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state, 
running  in  a  westerly  direction,  and  emptying  into  the  Missis¬ 
sippi  above  the  Illinois  bounty  tract,  300  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Illinois  river.  Opposite  to  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  Rock 
island,  on  which  is  a  fort,  garrisoned  by  a  company  of  U.  States 
troops.  Rock  river  is  a  beautiful  stream,  and  the  lands  on  its 
banks  are  very  fertile,  it  is  navigable  for  2  or  300  miles,  and 
is  connected  by  a  short  portage  with  the  Melwakee  river,  about 
100  miles  above  its  junction  with  Lake  Michigan  A  short  dis¬ 
tance  below  its  mouth,  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  are  se¬ 
veral  groups  of  mounds,  some  of  which  are  very  large.  Near 
these  is  a  lai  ‘ge  village  of  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,  living  promis¬ 
cuously  together.  It  consists  of  60  lodges,  being,  it  is  said,  one 
of  the  largest  and  most  populous  Indian  villages  on  the  continent. 

Saline  creek)  a  small  stream  of  Gallatin  county,  rises  by  two 
heads,  the  one  in  Franklin  and  the  other  in  White  county,  and 
running  a  southeast  course,  empties  into  the  Ohio  a  few  miles 
below  Shawnectown.  It  is  nav  igable  for  boats  to  the  Saline* 
which  is  eleven  miles  from  its  mouth. 

Saline  creek ,  a  considerable  branch  of  the  Sangarno,  emptying 

into  it  on  the  right  side,  after  running  a  southwest  course  through 

a  fertile  tract  of  country,  and  receiving  a  number  of  tributaries. 

* 

Saline  fork  of  Little  Wabash ,  a  small  stream,  running  a  *  u  h- 

east  course,  and  emptying  into  the  Little  Wabash  in  White 

count  v,  25  miles  above  its  month, 

20 


154 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


Salines  are  so  numerous  in  this  state,  that  it  would  he,  im¬ 
possible  to  give  a  detailed  enumeration  of*  them.  They  exist  in 
almost  every  county,  and  promise  to  become  .sources  of  wealth 
to  the  inhabitants,  and  of  revenue  to  the  state.  The  one  near 
Sliawneetown,  (  ailed  the  Ohio  saline,  is  at  present  the  most  va- 
luaule.  (vide  Gallatin  county.)  Near  Brownsville  is  another  of 
considerable  value,  (  ailed  Muddy  saline  ;  as  also  on  Shoal  creek, 
in  section  36  of  township  6  north,  in  range  4,  west  of  the  third 
principal  meridian.  These  are  the  most  extensively  worked. 
Salines  have  also  been  discovered  on  the  main  or  north  fork  of 
the  Sangamo — between  Little  Vermilion  river  and  Fox  river  of 
the  Illinois — on  the  north  side  of  the  Illinois  river,  about  nine 
miles  above  the  military  bounty  tract,  which  was  once  worked 
by  the  French — and  in  township  11  south,  in  range  2,  west  of 
the  fourth  principal  meridian. 


&aluf  a  town  in  Madison  county,  laid  out  in  1819.  It  is  si¬ 
tuated  on  the  bluff,  a  mile  and  a  half  east  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
one  mile  north  of  Alton,  in  section  6  of  township  5  north,  in 
range  9,  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  The  road  lead¬ 
ing  through  the  state  from  east  to  west,  runs  near  this  place, 
and  forks  so  as  to  cross  at  Smetzcr’s,  or  Fountain  ferry.  The 
town  is  well  supplied  with  springs,  and  its  situation  is  consider¬ 
ed  healthy  and  advantageous. 

Sandy  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Greene  county,  running  a 
westerly  course,  and  emptying  into  the  Illinois  above  Apple 
creek,  in  section  13  of  township  13  north,  in  range  13,  west  of 
the  third  prim  ipal  meridian,  and  opposite  to  section  36  of  town¬ 
ship  5  south,  in  range  2,  west  of  the  fourth  principal  meridian. 


Sangamo  river ,  a  large  stream  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state. 
It  rises  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Kaskaskia  river,  Vermilion 
of  the  Vabash.  Woman  river  of  1  ippecanoe,  and  Iroquois  river 
ol  ihe  Illinois,  about  70  miles  northwest  of  Fort  Harrison,  and 
running  a  northwesterly  course,  empties  into  the  Illinois,  about 
130  miles  above  its  mouth.  It  is  about  150  miles  in  length,  70 
ol*  which  are  navigable.  Its  tributaries  are  Mowawequa  or 
South  fork,  Brush,  Sugar,  Spring  and  Richland  creeks  from  the 
south,  and  Sait  creek,  and  several  other  smaller  streams,  from 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  155 


the  north.  The  current  of  the  Sangamo  is  brisk,  and  the  water 
clear.  The  land  bordering  on  it  and  its  tributaries,  are  uncom¬ 
monly  fertile  ;  the  soil  being  of  such  a  nature,  that  immense 
crops  are  raised  with  very  little  labour.  Emigration  to  this 
section  of  the  state  has  been  so  great,  that  it  already  contains  a 
population  of  several  thousands.  On  the  head  waters  are  sever¬ 
al  salines,  which  must  become  valuable,  as  the  demand  for  salt 
increases. 

Seaton's  creek,  a  small  stream  of  Alexander  county,  running  a 
westerly  course,  and  emptying  into  the  Mississippi  near  the 
southern  part  of  township  14  south,  about  35  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio. 

Shawneetown ,  a  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Galla¬ 
tin  county,  situated  on  the  Ohio  river,  nine  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Wabash,  in  section  6,  of  township  10  south,  in 
range  10,  east  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  The  bank  of 
the  Ohio  at  this  place  has  a  gradual  ascent,  but  is  annually  sub¬ 
ject  to  inundation.  On  account  of  the  peculiar  situation  of 
this  town,  it  commands  a  hue  view  of  the  river  for  sev. 
eral  miles  above  and  below.  It  contains  a  bank,  a  printing 
office,  from  which  a  weekly  paper  is  issued,  a  land  office  for 
the  district,  and  about  100  dwelling  houses,  a  great  propor¬ 
tion  of  which  are  built  of  wood.  he  town  extends  along 
the  river  about  half  a  mile,  but  has  rather  the  appearance  of  de¬ 
cline.  This  may  be  owing  to  the  inundations  of  the  river,  and 
the  unhealthiness  which  they  occasion.  Mr.  Birkbeck,  in  his 
notes  on  a  journey  in  America,  remarks  :  “  This  place  I  account 
as  a  phenomenon,  evincing  the  pertinacious  adhesion  of  the  hu¬ 
man  animal  to  the  spot  where  it  once  has  fixed  itself.  As  the 
Java  of  Mount  Etna  cannot  dislodge  tins  strange  being  from  the 
cities  which  have  been  repeatedly  ravaged  by  its  eruptions,  so 
the  Ohio,  by  its  annual  overflowings,  is  unable  to  wash  away 
the  inhabitants  of  Shawneetown.  Once  a  year,  for  a  series  of 
successive  springs,  it  has  carried  away  the  fences  from  the 
cleared  lands,  till  at  length  they  have  surrendered  and  ceased 
to  cultivate  them.  Once  a  year,  the  inhabitants  make  their  es¬ 
cape  to  higher  lands,  or  take  refuge  in  their  upper  stories,  until 


156 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


the  waters  subside,  when  they  recover  their  position  on  this  des¬ 
olate  sand  bank.” 

IS  haw  nee  town  is  in  latitude  57°  40'  north,  110  miles  southeast 
of  Vandalia. 

Shoal  creek ,  a  beautiful  stream,  running  in  a  southerly  direc¬ 
tion  through  the  counties  of  Bom!  and  Washington,  and  empty¬ 
ing  into  the  Kaskaskia,  in  section  6,  of  township  1  south,  in 
range  4,  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  It  is  formed  by 
the  union  of  the  east  and  west  fork,  and  is  navigable  for  small 
craft  a  considerable  distance. 

Silver  creek ,  a  considerable  stream,  running  a  southerly 
course  through  the  counties  of  Madison  and  St.  Clair,  and  emp¬ 
tying  into  the  Kaskaskia  in  section  28,  of  township  2  south,  in 

* 

range  7,  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  It  is  about  50  miles 
in  length,  and  has  several  small  branches  watering  t lie  western 
parts  of  Washington  and  Bond  counties.  On  these  are  some  of 
the  most  flourishing  settlements  in  the  state. 

Smallsburg ,  a  hamlet,  containing  a  mill  and  five  or  six  hous¬ 
es,  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Embarras  river,  five  miles 

/  .  .  '  .  /  '  *  '  ;  J  '  •  t  '  '  y. 

above  its  mouth,  am!  about  six  miles  southwest  of  Vincennes. — - 
The  alluv  ion  between  this  plac  e  and  the  Wabash,  is  heav  ily  tim¬ 
bered  and  subject  to  inundation.  The  water  is  frequently  from 
twelve  to  fourteen  feet  in  depth,  so  that  an  uninterrupted  boat 
navigation  is  established  through  the  timber,  from  Smallsburg 
to  the  W  abash,  a  distance  of  three  miles. 

Smelt&er’s  ferry ,  on  the  Mississippi,  a  mile  above  Alton. 

Snicarty  sloo ,  see  Chenail  ecarte. 

South  fork  of  the  Sangamo ,  see  Mowawequa. 

Sjtoon  river ,  a  large  and  beautiful  stream  of  Pike  county.  It 
rises  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the  Illinois  bounty  trad,  and 
runs  a  southwest  and  south  course,  until  it  reaches  the  line  be¬ 
tween  townships  5  and  6  north,  in  range  1,  east  of  the  4th  prin¬ 
cipal  meridian  ;  it  tin  n  c  hanges  to  southeast,  which  course  it 
continues  with  little  variation,  until  it  empties  into  the  Illinois, 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  157 

150  miles  above  its  tnout.li,  in  section  32,  of  township  4  north,  in 
range  4  east  of  the  4th  principal  meridian.  This  stream  is  navi  ¬ 
gable  for  some  distance,  but  it  is  much  obstructed  by  rafts  of  tim¬ 
ber.  At  its  junction  with  the  Illinois,  is  a  large  lake,  which,  ex¬ 
tending  north  and  south,  is  frequently  the  <ause  of  embarrassment 
to  the  emigrant,  who  is  liable  to  mistake  it  for  the  channel  of  the 
river.  The  mouth  of  Spoon  river,  is  about  30  or  40  yards  wide, 
and  may  be  known  by  its  being  3  miles  below  a  sandy  bluff  on 
the  east  side  of  the  Illinois,  on  which  are  small  mamclles .  The 
land  on  this  river  and  its  tributaries,  is  considered  the  most  eli¬ 
gible  in  this  section  of  the  state,  being  high  and  undulating,  well 
watered,  and  handsomely  diversified  with  prairie  and  timber. — 
Coal,  of  a  very  fine  quality,  is  abundant  on  the  banks  of  this 
stream,  and  w  ill  be  \aluable,  on  account  of  the  scarcity  of  tim¬ 
ber,  particularly  in  the  northern  part  of  the  military  tract. 

Spring  creek ,  a  small  stream,  running  a  northwest  course,  and 
emptying  into  the  Sangamo  river  on  the  left  side  below  the  south 
fork.  On  its  banks  are  a  number  of  flourishing  settlements. 

Springfield ,  a  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Sangamo 
county  ,  laid  out  in  1821.  It  is  situated  on  Spring  creek,  a  branch 
of  the  Sangamo  river,  in  township  16  north,  in  range  5,  west  of 
the  third  principal  meridian.  Although  this  place  is  as  yet  in  its 
infancy,  the  circumstance  of  its  being  the  centre  of  a  fertile  and 
thickly-settled  district  of  country,  must  soon  render  it  of  consid¬ 
erable  importance. 

Springfield  is  in  latitude  39°  50'  north,  96  miles  northeast  of 
St.  Louis,  and  65  northwest  of  Vandalia. 

Sterling ,  a  town  of  Clark  county,  situated  on  the  Wabash,  in 
township  10  north,  in  range  11,  west  of  the  third  principal  me¬ 
ridian. 

St.  Germain ,  a  small  stream,  running  through  the  northeast¬ 
ern  part  of  the  state,  and  flowing  into  the  Wabash  between  Vin¬ 
cennes  and  St-  Harrison  It  was  discovered  by  the  French. 

Stinking  creek ,  see  Beaver  creek . 


158 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


St  Mary ,  a  town  in  Madison  county,  situated  on  the  east  hank 
of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  mouth  of  Wood  river,  and  nearly  op¬ 
posite  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  It  is  18  miles  north  of  St. 
Louis,  and  22  south  of  the  junction  of  the  Illinois  with  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi.  Wood  river,  which  runs  through  the  town,  affords  a 
good  harbor  for  boats,  and  has  on  it  several  valuable  grist  and 
saw  mills,  and  distilleries  No  improvement  has  as  yet  been 
made  in  this  place,  and  it  is  doubtful  whether  it  will  become  oth¬ 
er  than  a  mere  settlement.  The  situation  is  in  many  respects 
unfavorable,  and  on  this  account  can  never  rival  Alton,  and  the 
other  towns  above.  About  a  mile  south  is  a  ferry  across  the 
Mississippi. 

St.  Philip ,  a  French  village  of  Monroe  county,  now  almost 
entirely  deserted.  It  is  situated  on  the  American  bottom,  near 
Fort  Chartres,  45  miles  below  Cahokia.  While  the  French 
continued  in  possession  of  the  territory  east  of  the  Mississippi, 
this  was  the  residence  of  several  families.  Like  all  the  other 
French  villages,  St.  Philip  has  a  large  common  field  for  the  use 
of  its  inhabitants. 

Sugar  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Fayette  county,  rising  in  the 
prairies,  and  running  a  southeast  course  about  20  miles,  empties 
into  the  Kaskaskia  river  near  the  centre  of  township  8  north,  in 
range  2,  east  of  the  third  principal  meridian.  Near  the  mouth 
of  this  creek  is  a  flourishing  settlement.  The  lands  on  its  banks 
arc  generally  first  rate,  and  handsomely  diversified  with  prairie 
and  timber. 

Sugar  creek,  runs  a  northerly  course,  and  empties  into  the 
Sangamo  river  on  the  left  side,  a  short  distance  below  the  forks. 

Sugar  creek ,  a  small  stream,  rising  in  township  4  north,  in 
range  5,  west  of  the  third  principal  meridian,  and  running  a 
southerly  course  through  the  western  parts  of  Madison  and 
Washington  counties,  empties  into  the  Kaskaskia  river,  by  two 
mouths,  near  the  base  line,  in  range  5,  west  of  the  third  principal 
meridian,  it  is  about  20  miles  in  length,  and  waters  a  fertile 
country,  which  is  rapidly  settling.  Coal  is  found  in  great 
abundance  on  the  banks  of  this  stream. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


159 


Theakiki  river,  a  large  navigable  stream,  rises  in  the  north¬ 
western  part  of  Indiana,  and  interlocking  with  the  head  waters  of 
St.  Joseph  of  the  Lakes  and  Tippecanoe,  runs  a  northwesterly 
course  through  the  northeastern  part  of  Illinois.  After  receiv¬ 
ing  Yellow  river,  Iroquois  river,  and  several  other  tributaries, 
it  unites  with  the  Des  Plaines,  and  forms  the  Illinois,  SO  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  Fox  river.  Navigation  can  be  effected 
through  the  Pheakiki  and  St.  Joseph  of  the  Lakes,  when  it  can¬ 
not  through  Chicago  creek  and  the  Des  Plaines.  Boats  of  or¬ 
dinary  size  may  ascend  as  high  as  British  lake,  at  which  place 
is  a  trading  house,  60  miles  due  south  of  Chicago.  From  this 
lake  the  river  loses  itself  in  a  cranberry  marsh,  extending  50 
miles  east,  and  rising  at  the  big  spring,  near  the  state  line  be¬ 
tween  Illinois  and  Indiana.  To  this  spr  ing  it  is  navigable,  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year,  for  small  boats.  From  this  to  the  St. 
Joseph’s  is  a  portage  of  nine  miles,  across  a  sandy  ridge. 

The  Theakiki  was  discovered  by  the  French  at  a  very  early 
period,  and  was  one  of  the  principal  routes  to  the  Illinois. 
Charlevoix,  in  his  travels,  gives  the  following  account  of  it  : — 
“  I  yesterday  departed  from  the  fort  on  the  river  St.  Joseph, 
and  sailed  up  that  river  six  leagues.  I  went  ashore  in  the  night, 
and  walked  a  league  and  a  quarter,  first  along  the  water  side, 
and  afterwards  across  a  field,  in  an  immense  meadow,  entirely 
covered  with  copses  of  wood,  which  produce  a  very  fine  effect. 
It  is  called  the  meadow  of  the  buffaloe’s  head ,  because  it  is  said 
that  a  head  of  that  animal,  of  monstrous  size,  was  once  found 


there. 

This  morning  I  walked  a  league  further  in  the  meadows, 
having  my  feet  almost  always  in  the  water  ;  afterwards  1  met 
with  a  kind  of  pool  or  marsh,  which  had  a  communication  with 
several  others  of  different  sizes,  hut  the  largest  not  a  hundred 
paces  in  circuit.  These  are  the  sources  of  the  river  Theakiki, 
which,  by  a  corrupted  pronunciation,  our  Indians  call  Kiakihi- 
Theak  signifies  a  wolf,  in  I  do  not  remember  what  language  ; 
hut  this  river  hears  that  name,  because  the  Mahingans,  who  are 
likewise  called  the  Wolves,  had  formerly  their  refuge  on  its 
banks.” 

He  further  observes,  44  This  river  is  very  narrow  at  its  source, 
and  very  crooked,*  but  ten  men  would  in  two  days  make  a 


160 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


straight  and  navigable  canal,  which  would  save  a  great  deal  of 
trouble,  and  ten  or  twelve  leagues  of  way.” 

"  After  this,  the  river  by  degrees  takes  a  straighter  course  ; 
hut  its  banks  are  not  pleasant,  till  at  the  distance  of  fifty  leagues 
from  its  source.  It  is,  even  throughout  that  whole  space,  very 
narrow,  and  it  is  bordered  by  trees,  which  have  their  roots  in 
the  water :  when  any  one  happens  to  fall,  it  bars  up  the  whole 
river,  and  a  great  deal  of  time  is  lost  in  clearing  a  passage  for  a 
canoe.  All  these  difficulties  being  passed,  the  river,  at  the  dis¬ 
tance  of  fifty  leagues  from  its  source,  forms  a  small  lake  ;  after 
which  it  grows  considerably  broader.  The  country  becomes 
beautiful,  consisting  of  unbounded  meadows,  where  buffaloes  are 
to  be  seen  grazing  in  herds  of  two  or  three  hundred.” 

The  junction  of  this  stream  with  the  River  des  Plaines  or  the 
Illinois,  is  called  by  the  Canadians  the  Forks.  It  is  here  a 
beautiful  stream,  while  the  Illinois  is  very  shallow.  From  the 
Forks  to  Cowpens,  on  St.  Joseph  of  the  Lakes,  by  water,  is  180 
miles  ;  by  land  SO. 

The  natives  and  traders  still  call  this  stream  the  Teaukeekee, 
according  to  the  French  orthography,  Tueakiki ;  of  which 
Charlevoix  has  given  the  correct  definition.  But  it  is  frequently 
called  Kankakee ,  a  corruption  of  the  corruption  mentioned  by 
the  same  author.  It  is,  however,  proper  that  the  aboriginal 
name  should  be  preserved. 

The  Theakiki  crosses  the  eastern  boundary  line  of  the  state, 
180  miles  north  of  Vincennes,  and  35  miles  south  of  Lake  Mi¬ 
chigan.  At  this  place  its  width  is  300  links. 

Town  of  Illinois ,  (forme:  ly  Jacksonville, )  a  posl  town  in  St. 
Clair  county,  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  Cahokia  creek,  about 
400  yards  from  the  Mississippi,  directly  opposite  to  St.  Louis. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a  fertile  tract  of  country,  but  has  few  com¬ 
mercial  advantages.  Here  are  20  or  SO  houses,  and  upwards  of 
100  inhabitants.  The  situation  is  unhealthy,  hut  in  this  respect 
has  improved  much  within  a  few  years.  The  road  from  Vin¬ 
cennes  to  St.  Louis  passes  through  this  place,  and  its  contiguity 
to  the  latter  will  always  secure  to  it  some  importance. 

Tro !/,  a  small  town  in  Madison. county,  situated  in  section  10 
of  township  3  north,  in  range  7,  w  est  of  the  third  principal  me¬ 
ridian*  seven  miles  southeast  of  Edwardsville. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


161 


Turkey  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Fayette  county,  running  a 
southeasterly  course,  and  emptying  into  the  Kaskaskia  river  on 
the  right  side,  above  Blac  kbird  creek. 

Turkey  hill ,  a  flourishing  settlement  of  St.  Clair  county,  and 
one  of  the  oldest  American  settlements  in  the  state.  If  includes 
the  town  of  Belleville,  and  much  of  the  surrounding  country. 
Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  Methodists. 

Valid  alia,  the  capital  of  the  state,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of 
Fayette  county,  laid  out  in  181^,  by  commissioners  appointed  for 
that  purpose,  under  the  authority  of  the  state.  It  is  situated  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  Kaskaskia  river,  in  sections  8,  9, 16,  and  17, 
of  township  6  north,  in  range  1,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian. 
The  site  is  high  and  undulating,  and  entirely  above  the  inunda¬ 
tions  of  the  river.  The  streets  cross  each  other  at  right  angles, 
and  are  80  feet  in  width.  The  public  square  is  a  high  and  com¬ 
manding  situation,  and  is  already  ornamented  with  a  tempo¬ 
rary  state  house,  and  a  brick  bank.  There  are  also  in 
the  tow  n,  several  stores,  a  printing  offic  e,  from  which  is  issued 
a  weekly  paper,  entitled  the  “  Illinois  Intelligencer,”  about  150 
dwelling  houses,  and  700  inhabitants,  among  which  are  profes¬ 
sional  men,  and  mechanics  of  every  description. 

Yandalia  is  under  the  government  of  five  trustees,  who 
are  elected  annually  by  all  the  free  white  male  inhabitants 
of  twenty-one  years  and  upwards,  who  shall  hav  e  resided  six 
months  immediately  preceding  the  election,  within  the  limits  of 
the  following  boundaries,  to  wit:  Beginning  at  the  southeast 
corner  of  section  16,  in  township  6  north,  in  range  l,  east  of  the 
3d  principal  meridian,  thence  north  to  the  northeast  corner  of 
sec  tion  9,  in  the  same  township,  thence  west  to  the  northwest 
corner  of  section  8,  in  the  same  township,  thence  south  to  the 
southwest  corner  of  section  17,  in  the  same  township,  and  thence 
east  to  the  place  of  beginning.  The  trustees  have  the  power  of 
appointing  an  assessor,  whose  duty  it  shall  be  to  value  and  as¬ 
sess  all  the  lots,  regularly  laid  off  in  the  said  town,  and  make  a 
return  of  them  to  the  trustees,  having  previously  taken  an  oath 
before  some  justice  of  the  peace,  truly  and  impartially  to  perforin 
the  same ,  but  in  the  valuation  of  said  lots,  the  houses  aiid  other 

21 


162 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


improvements  thereon,  shall  not  be  taken  into  consideration  ; 
and  upon  the  return,  of  such  list  of  taxable  property  by  the  as¬ 
sessor,  the  trustees  shall  levy  a  tax  thereon,  at  a  rate  not  exceed¬ 
ing  three  per  cent  per  annum  on  the  valuation  of  said  lots,  for  the 
purpose  of  paying  for  the  clearing,  cleansing  and  repairing  the 
streets,  and  such  other  improvements  as  may  be  deemed  by  them 
expedient  and  necessary. 

The  act  of  the  legislature  appointing  trustees  to  the  town  of 
Yandalia,  of  which  the  above  is  an  extract,  also  provides,  that 
for  the  purpose  of  enabling  the  said  trustees  to  drain  any  ponds 
or  slashes  which  may  be  in  the  neighborhood  of  said  town,  and 
erecting  a  bridge  across  the  Raskaskia  river  opposite  the  same, 
and  constructing  a  road  from  said  bridge  across  the  bottom  on 
the  east  side  of  the  river  to  the  highlands,  there  shall  be  grant¬ 
ed  to  the  said  trustees  and  their  successors  in  office,  in  fee  sim¬ 
ple,  fifty  lots  in  said  town,  to  be  selected  by  them,  in  conjunction 
with  the  auditor  of  the  state,  under  certain  provisions  mention¬ 
ed.  These  lots  may  be  disposed  of  by  the  trustees  in  such  man¬ 
lier  as,  in  their  opinion,  shall  be  most  conducive  to  the  object  for 
which  the  grant  is  made. 

The  same  act  also  authorises  the  trustees  to  lease  out  any  part 
of  the  prairie  lying  within  the  town  tract,  and  any  quantity  of 
land  within  said  tract,  not  exceeding  six  acres  to  any  one  person, 
nor  for  a  longer  period  of  time  than  six  years,  for  the  purpose  of 
brickyards,  mills,  &c.  on  such  terms  as  they  may  think  most 
advantageous  to  the  state  ;  and  the  said  trustees  shall  allow  a 
sufficiency  of  timber  for  the  purpose  of  fencing  any  lands  w  hich 
they  may  lease. 

The  advantages  of  Yandalia  are  by  no  means  few  or  incon¬ 
siderable.  Many  intelligent  men  are  still,  however,  of  opinion 
that  a  more  eligible  situation  might  have  been  selected.  Soon 
after  it  was  located,  150  lots  were  sold  for  an  average  amount  of 
$234.89  each.  The  highest  brought  $780,  and  the  aggregate 
sale  amounted  to  $35,234.76.  Considering  that  the  town  was 
then  a  wilderness,  and  not  a  stick  of  timber  missing  in  it,  except 
what  was  necessarily  removed  for  the  purposes  of  surveying,  this 
was  a  more  favorable  sale  than  could  have  been  anticipated — 
Although  it  does  not  possess  commercial  advantages,  the 
Kaskaskia  being  too  low  for  navigation  for  more  than  nine 


Saritvp 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  168 

months  in  the  year,  yet  the  fact  of  its  being  the  seat  of  govern¬ 
ment  for  20years,  must  secure  to  it  a  rapid  increase  of  population. 
Besides  this,  the  fertility  of  the  surrounding  country,  must  also 
contribute  much  to  its  improvement.  Here  must  of  course  be  a 
considerable  market,  to  which  the  farmers  of  the  vicinity  will 
send  their  produce.  In  regard  to  health,  Vandalia  may  be  said 
to  differ  little  from  the  neighboring  towns.  Although  its  local 
situation  is  such  as  to  lead  to  the  conclusion,  that  it  will  be  heal¬ 
thy,  yet  the  inundated  alluvion,  and  the  ponds  by  which  it  is  sur¬ 
rounded,  bring  with  them  their  train  of  summer  and  autumnal 
fevers.  But  as  this  is  a  calamity  attendant  upon  all  newly  set¬ 
tled  countries,  it  can  form  no  particular  objection  to  this  place. 
Among  the  advantages  which  it  possesses,  are  fine  springs  in 
abundance.  Good  water  may  be  obtained  in  any  place  b)  dig_ 
ging  about  20  feet.  A  large  proportion  of  the  inhabitants  of  this 
place  and  the  vicinity  are  Germans,  who  emigrated  in  1820.— 
In  general  they  are  good  citizens,  and  sustain  the  character  of 
their  countrymen,  in  different  sections  of  the  United  States,  for 
industry  and  frugality.  West  of  this  place  are  a  number  of  prai¬ 
ries,  considerable  portions  of  which  are  under  cultivation.  On 
the  east  side  of  the  river,  is  an  extensive  bottom,  about  two  miles 
in  width,  heavily  timbered,  and  subject  to  inundation,  which 
sometimes  renders  it  impassible.  Beyond  this,  prairie  predom¬ 
inates. 

Vandalia  is  in  latitude  38°  55'  north,  70  miles  northeast  of  St. 
Louis,  and  on  the  mail  route  from  Vincennes  to  that  place. 

Vermilion  river  of  the  Illinois ,  a  considerable  stream,  running 
a  westerly  course  through  the  northern  part  of  this  state,  and 
emptying  into  the  Illinois  river  on  the  leftside,  a  short  distance 
below  the  rapids. 

Vermilion  river  of  the  TVahash ,  rises  in  township  23  north,  in 
range  11,  west  of  the  2d  principal  meridian,  near  the  eastern 
boundary  line  of  the  state,  within  16  or  20  miles  of  the  Wabash* 
It  then  runs  a  west-southwest  course,  until  it  receives  two  con¬ 
siderable  tributaries,  one  of  which  rises  near  the  source  of  the 
Sangamo,  when  it  changes  its  course  to  the  southeast,  and  con¬ 
tinues  in  this  manner  to  its  junction  with  the  Wabash.  For  this 
information,  I  am  indebted  to  W.  S.  Hamilton,  Esq.  who,  during 


164 


GAZETTEER  OF  ILLINOIS. 


the  last  season,  explored  the  country  bordering  on  this  stream. 
Hr  also  informs  nue,  that  the  country  is  fine,  and  will  support  a 
dense  population.  On  the  south  fork,  are  valuable  salines,  which 
are  worked.  The  water  is  found  at  the  distance  of  12  feet  below 
the  surface.  They  are  as  yet  worked  entirely  by  squatters  ;  the 
land  having  been  recently  surveyed,  and  of  course  still  in  the 
possession  of  the  U.  States.  On  this  account,  the  improvements 
are  very  inconsiderable.  The  lands  on  the  banks  of  this  stream 
are  settling  rapidly,  and  when  brought  into  market,  will  no  doubt 
command  a  high  price  on  a<  count  of  the  number  of  salt  springs. 
The  Vermilion  is  navigable  for  some  distance  above  its  mouth. 
It  crosses  the  eastern  boundary  line  of  the  state,  100  miles  north 
of  Vincennes,  at  whic  h  place  it  is  300  links  in  width.  It  faIG  in¬ 
to  the  Wabash,  near  latitude  40°  north.  Little  Vermilion  emp¬ 
ties  in  a  short  distance  below. 


Vienna,  an  incorporated  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of 
Johnson  county ,  situated  on  the  waters  of  Cash  river,  in  sections 
5  and  6,  of  township  13  south,  in  range  3,  east  of  the  3d  principal 
meridian.  The  main  road  from  Golc  onda  to  Kaskaskia  passes 
through  this  plac  e.  It  is  in  latitude  37°  25' north,  110  miles 
nearly  due  south  of  Vandal ia. 


Wanborough ,  a  settlement  of  Edwards  county,  situated  near 
Albion. 

Washington ,  a  post  town  in  Washington  county,  situated  on 
the  east  bank  of  Shoal  creek,  in  section  12,  of  townships  north, 
in  range  4,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian. 


Waterloo,  a  town  in  Monroe  county,  laid  out  in  1819.  It  is 
situated  about  12  miles  east  of  the  Mississippi  river,  on  the  ridge 
road  between  St.  Louis  and  Kaskaskia,  in  section  25  of  town¬ 
ship  2  south,  in  range  10,  west  of  the  3d  principal  meridian  — 
So  iittle  improvement  has  as  yet  been  made  here,  that  a  travel¬ 
ler  would  scarcely  be  able  to  find  the  town. 


Wilkinsonville ,  formerly  a  military  post  on  the  Ohio,  25  miles 
abov  e  its  mouth,  commanded  by  General  \\  ilkinson.  It  was 
situated  on  a  high  bank,  called  Cedar  bluff's.  There  were  a  few 
inhabitants  here,  but  it  is  now  deserted. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


165 


Wind  river ,  a  small  stream  in  the  northern  part  of  the  sta-e, 
runs  a  southwest  course,  ami  empties  into  Fox  river  on  the  left 
side. 

Wolf’s  head  river,  a  branch  of  the  Sangamo,  emptying  into  it 
on  the  left  side,  helow  the  forks. 

Woman  rv  er  of  Tippecanoe ,  a  considerable  stream,  rises  in  the 
northeastern  part  of  the  stare,  above  the  Vermilion  of  the  Wa¬ 
bash,  and  running  an  east  course,  empties  into  Tippecanoe  river, 
in  the  state  of  Indiana.  A  small  part  of  this  stream  only  runs 
within  the  state  of  Illinois. 

Wood  river,  a  small  stream  of  Madison  countv.  runs  a  wester- 

-  ' 

1}  <  oufsie,  and  empties  into  the  Mississippi,  nearly  opposite  to  r he 
mouth  of  the  Missouri.  On  this  stream  are  many  fine  mill 
seats  and  flourishing  settlements. 

Yellow  banks ,  on  the  Einbarras  river,  in  Crawford  county.— 
A  company  has  been  incorporated  with  a  capital  of  SI 50,000, 
for  the  purpose  of  making  a  turnpike  from  this  place  to  V  incen- 
nes,  called  the  6‘  Embarras  turnpike  company.” 

Yellow  banks ,  see  Mauvaise  terre  creek. 

York ,  a  town,  situated  on  the  W  abash,  near  the  line  between 
Clark  and  Crawford  counties,  in  township  8  north,  in  range  11? 
west  of  the  2d  principal  meridian. 


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GENERAL 

GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  STATISTICAL 


ARRANGED  UNDER  THE  FOLLOWING  HEADS  : 

j 

Situation,  Boundaries  and  Extent — Face  of  the 
Country — Rivers — Vegetable  Productions —  Anim¬ 
als — Minerals — Climate — Antiquities —  Land  Dis¬ 
tricts - Government — Education - Internal  1m- 

trovements — History. 

Situation,  Boundaries  and  Extent.  The  state  of  Mis¬ 
souri  is  situated  between  36°  and  40°  30'  N.  !at  and  1 1°  45'  and 
3  7°  30'  W.  long.  It  is  bounded  north  and  west  by  Missouri  ter¬ 
ritory  ;  cast  by  the  states  of  Illinois,  Kentucky  and  Tennessee  ; 
and  south  by  Arkansas  territory.  Its  medium  length  is  about 
270  miles,  and  medium  breadth  about  220  miles,  the  area  being 
about  60.300  square  miles,  or  38,592,000  square  acres.  The 
boundaries,  as  prescribed  by  the  act  of  congress,  admitting  this 
state  into  the  union,  areas  follows  :  Beginning  in  the  middle  of 
the  Mississippi  river,  on  the  parallel  of  thirty-six  degrees  of 
north  latitude  ;  thence  west  along  the  said  parallel  of  latitude 
to  the  St.  Francois  river  ;  thence  up  and  f  Slowing  the  course  of 
that  river,  in  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  thereof,  to  the  par¬ 
allel  of  latitude  of  thirty  six  degrees  and  thirty  minutes  ;  thence 
west  along  the.  same  to  a  point  where  the  said  parallel  is  inter¬ 
sected  by  a  meridian  line  passing  through  the  middle  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Kansas  river,  where  the  same  empties  into  the  Missou¬ 
ri  ;  thence  from  the  point  aforesaid  north,  along  the  said  merid¬ 
ian  line,  to  the  intersection  of  the  parallel  of  latitude,  which  pas¬ 
ses  through  the  rapids  of  the  river  Des  Moines,  making  the  said 
line  correspond  with  the  Indian  boundary  line  ;  thence  easi,  from 


170 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


the  point  of  intersection  last  aforesaid,  along  the  said  parallel  of 
latitude,  to  the  middle  of  the  main  fork  of  the  said  river  Des 
Moines  ;  thence  down  and  along  the  middle  of  the  main  channel 
of  the  said  river  Des  Moines  to  the  mouth  of  the  same,  where  it 
empties  into  the  Mississippi  river  ;  thence  due  east  to  the  mid¬ 
dle  of  the  main  channel  of  the  Mississippi  river  ;  thence  down 
and  following  the  course  of  the  Mississippi  river,  in  the  middle 
of  the  main  channel  thereof,  to  the  place  of  beginning. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  lands  bordering  on  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  Missouri,  and  other  streams  in  this  state,  are  generally 
like  those  of  Illinois,  low,  subject  to  inundation,  and  very  fertile, 
consisting  of  a  stratum  of  alluv  ial  soil  of  great  depth.  As  you 
recede  from  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  the  land  rises,  becoming 
gradually  and  abruptly  elevated,  and  forming  wlirt  is  termed 

roiling  land."  It  is  handsomely  diversified  with  prairie  and 
wood  land,  and  the  soil,  although  inferior  to  that  of  the  alluvion, 
is  of  a  very  good  quality.  The  interior  and  southern  part  of  the 
state  is  traversed  in  many  places  by  ranges  of  flinty  hills,  which 
are  totally  unfit  for  cultivation,  hut  which  abound  with  minerals 
of  various  kinds.  1 

Rivers.  The  Mississippi  is  the  eastern  boundary  of  this 
state.  Having  already  given  a  general  description  of  this  river, 
1  shall  at  present  confine  my  attention  to  the  character  of  the 
lands  which  border  it. 

From  the  southern  boundary  of  the  state  to  about  thirty-five 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  where  the  limestone  rock 
terminates  abruptly,  is  a  plain  ofseveral  miles  in  width.  t4  The 
soil  is  generally  rich,  and  lias  the  appearance  of  being  alluvial, 
though  there  is  a  greater  proportion  of  sand  than  is  usual  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  rivers.  It  is  a  common  idea,  but  very  erro¬ 
neous,  that  this  is  a  continued  swamp,  or  rather  low  land,  sub¬ 
ject  to  inundation.  There  are  doubtless  a  great  many  swamps 
and  lakes  interspersed  with  the  plains ■;  but  there  are  aiso  exten¬ 
sive  bodies  of  land  fit  for  cultivation.  The  swamps  and  wet 
lands  might  be  drained  without  any  great  difficulty.” 

Tywapety  bottom,  which  extends  along  the  Mississippi  be¬ 
tween  the  bluffs  before  mentioned  and  Cape  Girardeau,  is  sever¬ 
al  miles  in  width,  and  is  covered  in  many  places  with  a  heavy 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


171 


growth  offices,  such  as  arc  peculiar  to  the  most  fertile  alluvion. 
It  is  hounded  by  a  ridge  of  highland,  which,  in  approaching  the 
St.  Fr  ancois  westward,  subsides.  In  passing  over  it,  we  appear 
to  be  in  a  hilly  country,  possessing  springs  and  rivulets  ;  the 
soil,  though  generally  poor  and  sandy,  is  tolerably  well  timber¬ 
ed,  and  not  altogether  unfit  for  cultivation, 

“  From  Cape  Girardeau  to  the  Missouri,  the  country  may  be 
called  elevated  and  uneven,  but  with  excellent  Hats  or  bottoms, 
on  the  creeks  or  rivulets,  of  a  width  usually  proportioned  to  the 
size  of  the  stream.  The  river  hills  of  the  Mississippi,  from  5  to 
10  miles  west,  are  in  many  places  far  from  prepossessing.  They 
are  badly  watered,  have  many  rugged  and  abrupt  acclivities, 
and  considerable  precipices  on  the  river.  A  strange  appearance 
is  also  given  by  the  number  of  funnels,  or  sink  holes ,  formed  by 
the  washing  of  the  earth  into  fissures  of  the  limestone  rock,  on 
which  the  country  reposes.  In  other  places,  flint  knobs  present 
themselves,  strewed  with  huge  masses  of  hornstone,  and  afford¬ 
ing  a  scanty  nourishment  to  a  few  straggling  black  jacks,  or 
gr  ov  es  of  pine.  But  it  is  not  to  be  understood,  that  this  forms 
the  greatest  proportion  of  the  lands  ;  a  more  minute  description 
of  particular  parts  will  prove  the  contrary.  Even  in  these  pla¬ 
ces,  there  is  abundance  of  fine  grass,  affording  excellent  pastur¬ 


age.”* 

North  of  the  Missouri,  the  country  on  the  bank  of  the  Missis¬ 
sippi  is  level  for  some  distance.  Standing  on  I  he  Mamelles, 
formed  by  the  union  of  the  bluffs  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missou¬ 
ri,  three  miles  below  St.  Charles,  and  looking  towards  the  north 
and  east,  you  have  a  view  of  more  than  30,000  acres  of  prairie, 
which  has  the  appearance  of  an  extended  plain  or  meadow, 
checkered  here  and  there  with  a  few  groves  of  timber.  But  in 
travelling  over  it,  we  discover  many  undulations  in  the  surface 
— the  Marais  croche  meanders  through  it  for  several  miles, 
and  its  banks  appear  as  if  they  had  formerly  been  the  hanks  of 
either  the  Mississippi  or  Missouri  rivers.  This  is  also  the  case 
with  Guide  sac ,  a  short  distance  below  St.  Charles.  In  the 
spring,  these  places  are  cov  ered  with  three  or  four  feet  of  water  ; 
in  the  summer,  they  are  generally  exiccated.  The  soil  of  this 


Brackenridge's  Views  off.ouisiana. 


172 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


tract,  near  the  Missouri,  is  very  rich,  but  towards  the  Missis¬ 
sippi  is  a  heavy  clay,  which,  by  exposure  to  the  sun,  becomes 
very  hard. 

Above  this  tract,  the  country  is  undulating  and  hilly,  and  con- 
tinues  so  with  little  variation  to  the  L)es  Moines.  On  the  head 
waters  of  Salt  River,  there  is  a  considerable  proportion  of  good 
land,  but  the  prairies  are  very  extensive,  and  are  not  calculated 
for  a  dense  population.  These  continue  to  the  head  waters  of 
the  Chariton,  which  empties  into  the  Missouri. 

The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi  in  this  state,  are 
Des  Moines,  Salt,  Missouri,  Merrimac  k  and  St.  Francois  riv¬ 
ers. 


The  Missouri  river  rises  in  the  Chippevvan  mountains,  in  lat. 
44°  20'  IS.  long  S5°W .  from  W  ashington  c  ity.  Its  general  course 
to  the  Mandan  villages  is  northeast  and  east,  and  in  this  distance 
it  receives  several  large  tributaries.  At  the  Mandan  villages,  it 
turns  to  the  south,  ami  continues  that  course  for  3  or  400  miles. 
In  this  distanc  e  it  receives  a  few  unimportant  tributaries  from 
the  left,  and  from  the  right,  the  large  streams  of  Cannon  Ball, 
Wetarhoo,  Sarwarcarna,  Chayenne.  Teton  and  White  rivers. 
Below  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  the  Missouri  turns  to  the  south¬ 
east,  east  and  south,  300  miles,  to  its  junction  with  the  La 
Platte,  an  immense  bod}  of  water*  flowing  from  the  west,  and 
heading  with  the  Arkansas.  Lewis’s  and  Yellow  Stone  rivers. — 
In  the  latter  course,  the  Missouri  has  also  received  from  the  left 
the  Jaques,  Great  and  Little  Sioux  rivers.  Below  its  junction 
with  the  Platte,-4he  Missouri  flows  200  miles  southeast  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Lanzas  liver,  a  large  tributary  flowing  from  the 
west.  The  Missouri  has  now  gained  nearly  the  39th  degree  of 
north  latitude,  and  turning  a  little  south  of  east  250  miles,  joins 
its  vast  volume  to  the  Mississippi,  after  an  entire  comparative 
course  of  1870  miles,  and  particular  course  of  about  3000  miles  * 
One  of  the  most  remarkable  features  of  the  valley  of  the  Mis¬ 
souri,  is  the  great  differenc  e  in  the  length  and  volume  of  the  con¬ 
fluent  streams  from  the  right,  when  compared  with  those  from  the 
left  bank  ot  the  main  recipient.  W  hilst  from  the  right,  the  Mis- 


*  Article  Mississippi  river ,  in  the  American  edition  of  Dr.  Brewster’s  new  Edinburgh  Encyclope¬ 
dia,  written  by  W-  Darby,  Esq.  author  of  Emigrant’s  Guide,  kc. 


GENERAL  VTEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


113 


Bonn  receives  such  vast  branches  as  the  Yellow  Stone,  Chay- 
enne,  Quicourre,  Platte,  K*nzas,  Osage  and  Gasconade,  from 
the  left  all  she  branches  are  of  minor  importance. 

The  most  peculiar  apj)earance  of  the  Missouri,  is  the  muddy 
ash-colour  of  its  water,  occasioned  by  the  sand  with  which  it  is 
impregnated  This  character  is  derived  from  the  mountains  in 
which  it  rises,  and  the  vast  plains  through  which  it  passes.  To 
this  cause  also  may  he  ascribed  the  formation  of  the  numerous 
sand  hanks  and  islands,  and  the  alluvious  nature  of  the  lands  on 
the  Missouri.  The  water  is  lively  and  soft,  and  the  specific  gra¬ 
vity  of  it  about  the  same  as  that  of  rain  or  snow  water.  A  ves¬ 
sel  tilled  w  ith  the  Missouri  water,  will,  after  remaining  for  some 
time  undisturbed,  he  about  one  third  full  of  sediment.  The 
quantity  of  the  sediment  varies  with  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  riv¬ 
er,  it  being  much  greater  in  the  spring  than  in  the  summer  or 
autumn.  This  arises  from  the  increased  volume  of  water  ;  by 
which  means  the  vast  plains  which  bound  the  Missouri  and  its 
tributaries  are  inundated,  and  the  current  of  the  streams  is 
rendered  more  impetuous.  But  the  muddiness  of  the  Missouri 
water  appears  to  be  no  objection  to  its  use  ;  on  the  contrary,  those 
inhabitants  who  reside  on  the  hanks  of  this  stream,  consider  the 
water  preferable  to  any  other.  Some  of  them  put  it  into  lar  ge 
earthen  jars,  and  let  it  stand  till  the  sediment  has  subsided.  Oth¬ 
ers  filtrate  it  through  stone  or  sand,  and  others  again  render  it 
clear  and  tr  ansparent,  by  putting  into  it  a  small  quantity  of  alum, 
or  the  kernels  ol  a  pear  h-stone,  either  of  which  precipitate  the  im¬ 
purities  to  the  bottom.  The  greatest  number,  however,  use  the 
water  in  its  impure  state,  and  experience  no  bad  effects  from  it. 
The  Missouri  water  is  impregnated  with  sulphur  and  nitre,  and 
those  who  drink  of  it  pretend,  that  it  is  a  remedy  fur  cutaneous 
diseases^*  It  generally  has  a  slightly  cathartic  effect  upon  those 
who  are  unaccustomed  to  its  use. 

The  current  of  the  Missouri  is  considerably  greater  than  that 
of  the  Mississippi,  or  any  of  the  western  rivers,  being  generally 
about  four  miles  an  hour.  It  is  on  this  account  that  the  bed  of 
the  river  is  continually  changing,  and  shoal  islands  and  sand¬ 
bars  ar  e  constantly  forming.  Hence  it  is  Unsafe  to  settle  on  the 


*  Stoddard’s  Sketches  of  Louisiana. 


174 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


alluvions  banks  of  t his  stream  ;  for  it  not  unfrequently  happens, 
that  thousands  of  acres,  containing  houses  and  plantations,  are 
swept  away  by  the  impetuosity  of  its  current. 

The  floods  of  the  Missouri  usually  begin  early  in  March,  and 
continue  until  the  latter  end  of  July  ;  during  which  time  it  rises 
and  subsides,  as  its  different  tributaries  bring  down  their  in¬ 
creased  volume  of  water.  It  so  happens  that  seldom  more  than 
two  great  rivers  are  high  at  the  same  period.  Many  of  these 
floods  are  never  felt  in  the  Mississippi.  The  great  rise  of  the 
Missouri  itself  from  the  melting  of  the  snows,  takes  place  about 
the  middle  of  June,  and  begins  to  subside  about  the  latter  end  of 
July.  In  some  of  the  northern  branches,  the  ice  does  not  break 
up  until  late  in  the  season.  Mr.  Brackenridge  observes,  that 
about  one  thousand  miles  up  the  Missouri,  he  saw  a  large  cake 
of  ice  floating  in  the  river  on  the  last  of  May.*  About  the  be¬ 
ginning  of  August  the  Missouri  begins  to  subside,  and  continues 
to  do  so  until  it  is  closed  with  ice. 

From  several  circumstances,  it  is  probable  that  the  rapidity 
of  the  current  of  the  Missouri  was  occasioned  by  some  compara¬ 
tively  recent  convulsion.  For  such  enormous  quantities  of  earth 
as  is  every  year  brought  down,  would  have  broken  and  mutr 
lated  the  country  in  an  astonishing  degree.  “  W  hat  immense 
quantities  of  earth,”  says  a  writerf  on  this  subject,  “  must  have 
been  carried  off*  to  form  the  great  alluvions  of  the  Mississippi, 
by  means  of  the  Arkansas,  Red  river,  and  chiefly  the  Missouri! 
not  to  mention  the  vast  quantities  lost  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
The  result  of  a  calculation  would  be  curious.  The  marks  of  this 
loss  are  very  evident  in  the  neighbourhood  of  nearly  all  the  ri¬ 
vers  which  discharge  themselves  into  the  Missouri  above  the 
Platte.  Some  of  the  appearances  may  rank  among  the  greatest 
natural  curiosities  in  the  world.  The  traveller,  on  entering  a 
plain,  is  deceived  at  the  first  glance  by  what  appears  to  be  the 
ruins  of  some  great  citv — rows  of  houses  for  several  miles  in 
length,  and  regular  streets.  At  the  first  view,  there  appears  to 
be  all  the  precision  of  design,  with  the  usual  dev  iations  in  single 
buildings,  representing  palaces,  temples,  &c.  which  appearances 
are  caused  by  the  washing  away  of  bills  as  before  described- 


Views  of  Louisiana. 


:  Brackenridg’e. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


175 


These  remains,  being  composed  of  more  dur  able  substance,  con¬ 
tinue  undecayed,  while  the  rest  is  carried  off.  The  strata  have 
the  appearance  of  different  stones ;  tire  isolated  and  detached 
hills  constitute  the  remainder.'9 

But  that  these  effects  have  been  recently  produced,  and  that 
the  character  of  the  Missouri  has  been  changed  by  some  re¬ 
cent  convulsion,  are  facts  which  might  be  satisfactorily  proved 
by  calculating  the  vast  quantities  of  earth  which  ar  e  annually 
brought  down.  But  the  calculation  would  be  tedious,  and  of 
little  importance  in  a  work  of  this  kind. 

Pumice,  and  other  volcanic  productions,  are  continually  float¬ 
ing  down  the  Missouri,  and  are  deposited  on  the  sand-bars  and 
islands.  By  some,  these  ar  e  said  to  be  caused  by  the  burning 
coal  banks  on  the  Upper  Missouri  ;  but  the  proof  in  favour  of 
the  existence  of  volcanoes  in  the  northwest  is  so  strong,  that 
there  is  little  doubt  but  they  are  referable  to  them.  Immense 
beds  of  coal  are  found  in  every  part  of  the  valleys  of  the  Ohio 
and  Illinois,  arid  yet  they  are  entirely  destitute  of  these  volcanic 
productions  ;  a  convincing  proof  that  they  must  be  produced  by 
some  other  cause. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Missouri,  after  leaving  the  alluvion 
at  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi,  the  land  becomes  undulating 
and  sometimes  hilly  ;  the  soil  is  generally  fertile,  although  there 
is  a  tolerable  proportion  of  second  rate  land. 

From  St.  Charles  to  Cote  sans  dessein,  the  north  bank  of  the 
Missouri,  with  the  exception  of  the  high  craggy  cliffs  on  Roche 
Percee  and  Bonne  Femme  creeks,  consists  of  a  handsome  up¬ 
land,  gently  sloping  to  the  river,  and  heavily  timbered  with  oak, 
hickory,  ash,  &c.  The  alluvions  of  the  small  streams  are  very 
fertile. 

Cote  sans  dessein,  two  or  three  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Osage  river,  is  situated  on  a  single  detached  hill,  about  half  a 
mile  in  length.  North  of  this  the  land  becomes  hilly,  and  in  ma¬ 
ny  places  sterile,  and  continues  in  this  manner  for  some  dis¬ 
tance. 

The  military  bounty  tract  is  generally  fertile,  but  in  the  nor¬ 
thern  part  the  prairies  are  too  large  to  support  a  dense  popu¬ 
lation.  Coal,  however,  is  very  abundant.  According  to  the  re- 


176 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


port  of  surveyors,  the  military  road  from  Grand  river  to  the 
Council  Bind's,  passes  through  a  country  well  watered,  and 
handsomely  interspersed  with  prairie  and  woodland.  It  crosses 
the  heads  of  the  small  streams,  which  empty  into  the  Missouri. 
The  land  is  level  or  gently  undulating ;  the  soil  is  generally  fer¬ 
tile. 


On  Fishing  river,  which  empties  into  the  Missouri,  near 

the  western  boundary  of  the  state,  there  is  a  beautiful  tract  of 

* 

country,  which  is  rapidly  increasing  in  population. 

On  the  Rauzas  river,  which  empties  into  the  Missouri  from 
the  southwest,  extensive  plains  and  prairies  are  very  common* 
and  timber  is  rarely  found,  except  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
the  water.  Below  Fort  Osage,  which  is  situated  on  a  high  and 
rocky  bank,  the  country  is  handsomely  interspersed  with  prairie 
and  woodland,  which  continues  so  for  some  distance.  Opposite 
to  the  mouth  of  the  C  hariton  rivers,  ihe  banks  of  the  Mis¬ 
souri  become  high  and  undulating,  and  as  you  approach  the 
Gasconade,  become  elevated  into  bills,  which  are  sterile,  and 
generally  destitute  of  timber.  To  compensate  for  this,  they 
abound  with  minerals. 

After  leaving  these  hills,  the  country  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mis¬ 
souri  is  level,  sometimes  alluvial  and  at  others  upland  ;  contains 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  timber,  and  is  very  fertile. 

The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  in  this  state,  are 
Rauzas,  Fishing.  Grand,  Osage  and  Gasconade  rivers. 

The  Kansas  river  rises  in  the  plains  between  the  Arkansas 
and  Platte,  and  running  a  northeast  course  seven  or  eight  hun¬ 
dred  miles,  unites  with  the  Missouri,  about  three  hundred  miles 
above  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi.  Its  principal  tributa¬ 
ries  are  Smoaky  Hill  fork,  Grand  Saline,  Solomon  s  fork  ami 
Republican  fork,  which  last  appears  to  be  the  principal  stream* 
At  the  confluence  of  the  Kansas  and  Missouri,  there  is  a  recent¬ 
ly  formed  alluvion,  which  is  low,  and  subject  to  annual  inunda¬ 
tion.  This,  however,  soon  rises  to  a  second  bank,  which  ex¬ 
tends  to  the  hills.  On  the  south  side  of  the  Kansas  the  high¬ 
lands  approa<  h  to  within  a  u die  and  a  half  of  Ihe  river  ;  on  Ihe 
north  they  are  several  miles  distant.  The  water  of  this  stream 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


177 


lias  a  disagreeable  taste,  and  is  often  very  muddy.  Its  banks 
are  generally  prairie,  and  the  cliffs  frequently  consist  of  “  solid 
strata  of  gypsum.”*  The  Kansas  Indians  reside  on  this  stream 
in  two  villages,  the  one  about  twenty  and  the  other  about  forty 
miles  above  its  confluence  with  the  Missouri.  Their  number 
amounts  to  about  three  hundred  warriors. 

The  Des  Moines  river  (La  Riviere  des  Moines,)  forms  apart  of 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  state.  It  rises  in  Pelican  lake,  be¬ 
tween  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  rivers,  in  lat.  44°  N.  near 
the  Great  Sioux  of  the  Missouri.  It  runs  a  southeasterly  course, 
nearly  parallel  with  the  Mississippi,  about  five  hundred  miles, 
and  empties  into  it  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Missouri,  in  lat.  40°  22'  N.  In  its  course  it  re¬ 
ceives  Raccoon  creek,  North  fork,  and  several  other  large  trib¬ 
utaries,  so  that  the  size  of  the  Des  Moines  continues  the  same  for 
several  hundred  miles. 

The  banks  of  this  stream  are  generally  well  timbered  ;  in 
some  places  low  and  subject  to  inundation,  and  in  others  high 
and  hilly  ;  in  the  latter,  lead  and  iron  ores  are  very  abundant. 
Several  mines  of  lead  have  been  opened,  and  are  worked  by  the 
Indians.  They  sell  the  ore  to  the  traders,  who  smelt  and  export 
it  to  the  southern  and  eastern  markets.  The  Indians  are  so  te¬ 
nacious  of  their  exclusive  right  of  working  these  mines,  that 
they  will  not  suffer  the  traders  even  to  visit  them.  Should  the 
government  or  individuals  ever  attempt  to  work  them,  a  large 
armed  force  will  be  necessary,  in  order  to  protect  the  frontier 
settlers.  An  Indian  chief  not  long  since  observed,  that  the  mines 
were  an  unalienable  gift  from  the  Great  Spirit,  and  that  the  whole 
of  his  tribe  would  rather  suffer  death  to  a  man,  than  yield  them 
to  the  whites.  It  is  to  be  feared,  however,  that  these  poor  delu¬ 
ded  natives  will  soon  be  prevailed  on  to  barter  their  inheritance 
for  a  song,  and  that  the  strong  arm  of  American  power  v%  ill  again 
drive  them  from  their  present  possessions,  to  the  sterile  and  in¬ 
hospitable  regions  of  the  north  and  west. 

At  the  mouth  of  this  river,  there  is  said  to  be  a  fine  town  site. 
Above  this  for  some  distance,  the  stream  is  narrow  and  shal¬ 
low,  and  frequently  hounded  by  low  marshy  land. 


1  Brackenridge. 


178 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


The  banks  of  the  Des  Moines  abound  with  game  of  all  kinds, 
and  on  this  account  are  the  residence  of  large  numbers  of  In- 
dians.  At  present,  they  are  inhabited  by  the  lowas,  who  are 
neighbours  to  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,  residing  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  upper  Mississippi. 

The  rapids  of  the  river  Des  Moines,  are  about  nine  miles  in 
length,  and  they  terminate  half  a  mile  above  the  mouth  of  this 
river.  These  are  in  the  Mississippi,  but  take  their  name  from 
the  circumstance  of  their  being  at  the  junction  of  the  stream 
which  1  have  just  described. 

The  river  Des  Moines  was  discovered  at  a  very  early  period. 
It  is  mentioned  by  Charlevoix,  who  calls  it  “  La  Riviere  des 

Moines ,  or  Moingona .” 

Vegetable  Productions.  In  respect  to  its  vegetable  pro¬ 
ductions,  t lie  state  of  Missouri  differs  little  from  that  of  Illi¬ 
nois.  The  forest  trees  peculiar  to  the  one,  are  found  in  the 
other,  with  very  little  difference  in  their  general  localities, 
hi  the  southern  part  of  this  state,  the  cypress  (cupressus  disticha) 
is  very  common.  Red  cedar ,  (Juniperus  virginiana)  is  found  upon 
the  high  rocky  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  and  upon  the  flint  bills 
of  the  mine  district.  On  the  Gasconade  river,  about  one  hun¬ 
dred  miles  above  its  confluence  with  the  Missouri,  the  timber  is 
principally  white  and  yellow  pine,  which  is  very  valuable  on  ac¬ 
count  of  its  being  so  rare  throughout  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi. 
Several  saw  mills  are  now  in  operation  at  this  place,  and  it  is 
probable  the  number  will  be  much  increased.  Formerly  ,  lumber 
was  brought  at  great  expense  from  the  Alleghany  and  Ohio  riv¬ 
ers.  At  present  it  can  be  sent  down  the  Gasconade  to  St.  Louis, 
and  the  other  towns  along  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  for 
one  fourth  the  price.* 

*  See  Gasconade  rive/. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


179 


The  following  catalogue  of  some  of  the  genera  of  plants,  which 
I  observed  in  this  state  and  Illinois,  will  convey  an  idea  of  their 
botanical  riches,  and  afford  an  opportunity  of  comparison  with 
the  floras  of  other  parts  of  the  United  States. 

DIANDRIA. 

Monogynia. 

Veronica,  L.  (speedwell.)  Gratiola,  L  (hedge-hyssop.)  Ca- 
talpa,  Jus.  (calalpa-tree.)  Lycopus,  L.  (water  horehound  )  Cu- 
Jiila,  L.  (mountain  dittany.)  Hedeoma,  Pers.  (wild  pennyroy¬ 
al.)  Alonarda,  L.  (mountain  balm.)  Uircsea,  L.  (enchanter’s 
nightshade.)  Leptandra,  Nutt. 

TRIANDRIA. 

Monogynia. 

Fedia,  Gcert.  Iris,  L.  (flag.)  Sisyrinchium,  L.  (blue-eyed 
grass  )  Ualymenia,  Pers.  (Nuttall.)  Leptanthus,  Mx.  Scir- 
pus,  L.  (club-rush.)  Cyperus,  L.  (cypress-grass.)  S^eersia 
Swartz.  (Bradbury,)  (rice-grass.)  Panicum,  L.  (panic  k-grass.) 
Aristida,  L.  (Brad.)  Stipa,  L.  (Brad.)  (feather-grass.)  Aira, 
L.  (hair-grass.)  Festuca,  L.  Poa,  L.  (meadow-grass  )  Hor- 
deum,  L.  (Nutt.)  (barley.)  Miegia,  Pers.  (cane.) 

Trigynia. 

Mollugo,  L. 

TETRANDRIA. 

Monogynia. 

Cephalanthus,  L.  (button-bush.)  Galium,  L.  (bed-straw.) 
Houstonia,  L.  Cornus,  L.  (dogwood.)  Plantago,  L.  (plaintain.) 
Pteiea,  L.  Viscuin,  L.  (misseltoe.) 

Dyginia. 

Hamamelis,  L.  (witch-hazel,)  Ilex,  L.  (ilex.)  Potamoge- 
ton,  L.  (pond- weed  ) 


tsu 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


PENTANDRIA. 

Monogynia. 

“Myosoiis,  L.  (scorpion-grass.)  Lythospermum,  L.  (groin- 
well.)  Batchia,  Mx.  Cynoglossum,  L.  (hound’s-tongue.)  Pul- 
monaria,  L.  (lung-wort.)  Onosmodium,  Mx  Phacelia,  Jus¬ 
sieu.  Hydrophyllum,  L.  (water-leaf.)  Ellisia,  L.  Dodecan- 
theon,  L  (American  rowslip.)  Convolvulus,  L.  (bindweed.) 
Phlox,  L.  Polemonium,  L.  (jacob’s-ladder.)  Physalis,  L.  (win¬ 
ter-cherry.)  Datura,  L.  (Jamestown-weed.)  Sabbatia,  Adam¬ 
son.  Campanula,  L  (bell-flower.)  Triosteum,  L.  (feverwort.) 
Ribes,  L.  (currant  and  gooseberry.)  Vitis,  L.  (vine.)  Impa¬ 
tient,  L.  (touch-me-not.)  Viola,  L.  (violet.)  Claytonia,  Gro- 
novius.  Solarium,  L.  (nightshade.)  Ceanothus,  L.  (New-Jer- 
sey-tea.)  Evonymus,  L.  (spindle-tree.)  Thesium,  L.  Ver- 
bascurn,  L.  (mullein.) 

Digynia. 

Apocynum,  L  (Jndian-hemp.)  Asclepias,  L.  (milk- weed.) 
Gentiana.  L.  (gentian.)  Heuchera,  L.  (alum  root.)  Sanicula, 
L.  (sanicle.)  Erigenia,  Nutt.  Cicuta,  L.  (water-hemlock.) 
Myrrhis,  Morison,  (chervil.)  Uraspermum  ?  Nutt.  Smyrni- 
unij  L.  (alexanders.)  Thapsium,  Nutt.  Chenopodium,  L. 
(goosefoot.)  TJlmus,  L.  (elm.)  Celtis,  L.  (nettle-tree,  hack- 
berry.) 

Trigynia. 

Viburnum,  L.  Sambucus,  L.  (elder.)  Rhus,  L.  (sumach.) 
Staph}  lea,  L. 

Tetragynia. 

Aralia,  L.  Linum,  L.  (flax.) 

HEXANDRIA. 

Moxogynia. 

Tradescantia,  L.  (spider- wort.)  Allium,  L.  (gariick.)  Hy- 
poxis,  L.  Lilium,  L.  (lily*)  Erythronium,  L.  (dog’s  tooth- 
violet,  adder’s  tongue.)  Uvularia,  L.  (bell wort.)  Convallaria, 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


181 


L.  Polygonatum,  Desfontaines,  (solomon’s  seal.)  Juncus, 
L.  (rush.)  Streptopus,  Mx.  Phalangiutn,  Tournefort. 

Trigynia. 

Trillium,  L.  (three- leaved  nightshade.)  Rumex,  L.  (dock.) 


PoLYGYNIA. 

Alisma,  L .  (water  plantain.) 

HEPTANRRIA. 


Monogynia. 

JEscuIus,  L .  (horse  chesnut — buck-eye.) 

t  *  *  i 

OCTANDRIA. 


Monogynia. 

Rhexia,L.  CEuothera,  L.  (tree  primrose.)  Gaura,  L.  Epi- 
lobiuin.L.  (willow  herb.)  Oxycoccus,  Fers-  (cranberry.)  Acer, 
L.  (maple.) 

Trigynia. 

Polygonum,  L.  (buckwheat.) 

ENNEANDRIA. 

Monogynia. 

Laurus,  L,  (spicewood.) 

DECANDRIA. 

Monogynia. 

Vaccinium,  L.  (whortle-berry.)  Cassia,  L .  Babtisia,  Veil- 
tenut9  (wild  indigo.)  Cercis,  L.  (red-bud.) 


Tiarella,  L. 


Digynia. 


Trigynia. 

Stellaria,  L>  (stitch-wort.) 


182 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


Pentagynia. 

Cerastium,  L.  (mouse  ear— chi<  kweed.)  Agrostemma,  L. 
(corn  cockle  )  Oxalis,  L .  Peuthorum,  L.  Sedum,  L .  (stone- 
crop) 

Decagynia. 

Phytolacca,  L.  (poke.) 

ICOSANDRIA. 

Monogynia. 

Prunus,  L .  (plum  anil  cherry.)  Ly  thrum,  L.  (loose-strife.) 

Digynia. 

Agrimonia,  L  (agrimony  .)  Crataegus,  L .  (hawthorn.) 

Pentagynia. 

Pyrus,  L.  (the  apple  and  pear  )  Spiraea,  L.  Gillenia,  ffloench. 
(Indian  physic.) 

Polygynia. 

Rosa,  L  (rose.)  Rubus,  L.  (bramble.)  Geum,  L.  (avens.) 
Potentilla,  L.  (cinquefoil.)  Fragaria,  L.  (strawberry.) 

POLYANDRIA. 

Monogynia. 

Tilia,  L .  (linden  or  lime-tree.)  Sanguinaria,  L.  (puccoon.) 
Podophyllum,  L  (May  apple)  Actaea,  L  (bane-berries.)  Nu- 
pliar,  Smith ,  (yellow  pond-lily.)  Helianthemum,  Tournefort, 

Di-Pentagynia. 

Delphinium,  L.  (larkspur.)  Aquilegia,  L.  (columbine.)  Hy¬ 
pericum,  L.  (St.  John’s  wort.) 

Polygynia. 

Porcelia,  Pers.  (papaw.)  Clematis,  L.  (virgin’s  bower.) — 
Anemone,  L .  Thalictruin,  L  (meadow  rue.)  Hydrastis,  L. 
Caltha,  L.  (marsh  marigold.)  Hepatica,  WilUl  (liver- wort.) 
Ranunculus,  L.  (crow-foot.) 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI* 


18 3 


DIDYNAM1A. 

Gymnospermia. 

Teucrium,  Z.  (germander.)  Mentha,  Z .  (mint.)  Isanthus, 
Jlx.  Nepeta,  Z  (cat-mint.)  Stachys, Z  (hedge  nettle.)  Mar- 
rubium*  Z  (borehound.)  Pycnanthemum,  Mx  (mountain  mint.) 
Prunella,  Z.  (self-heal.)  Scutellaria,  Z .  (scull-cap.)  Cunila> 
Z.  (dittany.) 

Angiospermia. 

Phryma,  Z .  Verbena,  Z  (vervain.)  Scrophularia,  Z.  (fig- 
wort.)  Bignonia,  Z.  (trum|)et  flower.)  Ruellia,  Z.  Buclmera, 
Z.  Collinsia.  Nutt.  Gerardia,  Z.  Ptdicularis,  Z.  (louse-wort.) 
Mimulus,  Z.  (monkey  flower.)  Chelone,  Z.  Pentstemon,  Z. 
Martynia,  Z.  Bartsia,  Z.  Orobanche,  Z .  (broom-rape.) 

TETRAD  Y  N  AM  I  A. 

SlLXCULOSA. 

Draba,  Z.  (whitlow  grass.)  Lepidium,  Z.  (cress.)  Thlaspi, 
Z.  (shepherdVpurse.) 

t 

SlLIQUOSA- 

Dentaria,  Z .  (tooth-wort.)  Cardamine,  Z.  (American  water¬ 
cress.)  Sisymbrium,  Z.  (water  radish.)  Turritis,  Z.  (tower 
mustard.)  Cleome,  Z. 

MONADELPHIA. 

Pentandria. 

Lobelia,  Z.  Passiflora,  Z.  (passion  flower.) 

Decandria. 

Geranium,  Z.  Schrankia,  fVilld . 

Polyandria. 

Sida,  Z.  Malva,  Z.  (mallow.) 

D1ADELPHIA. 

Pentaadria. 


Pctalostcmon,  Mx. 


184 


GENERAL  VIEW  OP  MISSOURI, 


Hexandria. 

Cory  dal  is.  Vent. 

OtTANDRIA. 

Polygala,  L.  (milk- wort.) 

Decandria. 

Amorpha,  X.  Lupinus,  X.  (lupin.)  Vicia,  X.  (vetch.)  La- 
thyrus,  X.  Astragalus,  X.  (milk-vetch.)  Psoralea,  X.  Tri¬ 
folium,  L.  (trefoil.)  Glycyrrhiza,  X.  Lespedeza,  Mx.  He- 
dysarum,  X .  Phaseolus,  X .  (kidney  bean.)  Robitiia,  X.  (locust 
tree.)  Tephrosia,  Fers.  JDolichos,  L . 

SYNGENESIA. 

POLYGAMIA  XE<*UALIS. 

Leontodon,  L .  (dandelion.)  Prenanthes,  L.  Sonchus,  L. 
(sow-thistle.)  Hieracium,  X.  (hawkvveed.)  Cnicus,  Witld. 
(thistle.)  Liatris,  Schreber .  Vernonia,  Schrebcr.  Eupatorium, 
X.  Cacalia,  L . 

PoLYGAMIA  SUPERFLTJA. 

Gnaphalium,  L .  (life-everlasting.)  Erigeron,  X.  (flea-bane.) 
Aster,  L.  (star-wort.)  Solidago,  L .  (golden-rod.)  Senecio,  X. 
(rag-wort)  Anthemis,  X.  (May-weed.)  Achillea,  L.  (millfoil.) 
Heliopsis,  L’Heretier.  Helenium,  L.  (American  sneezewort.) 
Boebera,  Willd . 

POLYGAMIA  FRUSTRANEA. 

Helianthus,  X.  (sunflower.)  Rudbeckia,  Bidens,  X.  (bur 
marygold.)  Coreopsis,  X.  Actinomeris,  Nutt. 

POLYGAMIA  NeCESSARIA, 

Silphium,  X.  Ambrosia,  X.  (bitter  weed.) 

PoLYGAMIA  SEGREGATAo 

Elephantopus,  X.  (elephant’s  foot.) 

GYNANDRIA. 


Orchis,  L . 


Monawdria. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI.  185 

Diandria. 

Cypripedium,  Swartz. 

MONOECIA. 

Triandria. 

Sparganium,  L.  (bur-reed.)  Carex,  L.  (sedge.)  Comptonia, 
Goertner,  (sweet  fern.) 

Tetrandria. 

Alnus,  Willd .  (alder.)  Urtica,  L .  (nettle.)  Moms,  L .  (mul¬ 
berry.) 

PoLYANDRIA. 

Sagittaria,  L.  (arrowhead.)  Quercus,  L.  (oak.)  Corylus,  L. 
(hazle-nut  tree.)  Fagus,  L.  (beech  tree.)  Castanea*  Tourne- 
Jort9  (chesnut.)  Platanus,  L.  (button-wood.)  Juglans,  L.  (wal¬ 
nut.)  Arum,  L.  (wake  robin.) 

Monadelphia. 

Pinus,  L.  (pine  tree.)  Cupressus,  L.  (cypress.)  Euphorbia, 
I*,  (spurge.) 

DICECIA. 

!  '  >  '  \ 

Biajvdria. 

Salix,  L .  (willow.)  Fraxinus,  L.  (ash.) 

Hexandria. 

-  .1  -  .  .  ^  'S 

Smilax,  L.  (green-briar.)  Gleditschia,  L,  (honey  locust.) 

OCTANDRIA. 

,  A  5  •  A  V  ,  •  .  -  '  t 

Populus,  L.  (poplar.)  Diospyros,  L.  (percimon.) 

POLYANDRIA. 

Menispermmn,  L.  (moon-seed.) 

Maize ,  is  as  yet  the  staple  production  of  this  state,  as  well  as 
Illinois,  a  large  surplus  quantity  of  which  is  annually  raised* 
and  exported  to  New-Orleans.  Wheat,  rye,  oats,  &e.  also 
flourish  here,  and  yield  large  crops. 

9A 


186 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


Cotton ,  is  cultivated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  and  ora 
the  Missouri  river  ;  and  although  the  crop  is  sometimes  destroy¬ 
ed  by  early  frosts,  it  amply  repays  the  labour  and  expense  of 
cultivation. 

Tobacco ,  will  no  doubt  become  one  of  the  most  valuable  pro¬ 
ductions  of  this  state.  It  is  already  so  extensively  cultivated, 
that  a  considerable  quantity  is  exported.  The  act  establishing 
and  regulating  inspections  of  tobacco,  passed  by  the  general  as¬ 
sembly  of  this  state  during  their  session  of  1821—22,  will  have 
the  effect  of  encouraging  its  cultivation,  by  establishing  its 
reputation  in  foreign  markets.  This  act  provides,  that  the 
the  several  county  cour  ts  shall  authorise  the  erection  of  ware¬ 
houses  for  the  reception  and  inspection  of  tobacco,  at  such  places 
in  their  respective  counties  as  they  may  deem  necessary  and 
proper  ;  and  that  all  the  tobacco  which  shall  be  brought  to  the 
warehouses  thus  established,  shall  be  viewed,  examined,  and  in¬ 
spected  by  a  person  skilful  in  tobacco,  who  shall  be  annually  ap¬ 
pointed  for  that  purpose,  by  the  county  courts  of  the  several 
counties  wherein  any  warehouse  or  warehouses  shall  be  esta¬ 
blished.  The  act  further  provides,  that  every  person  who  shall  be 
appointed  an  inspector,  shall,  before  he  enters  on  the  duties  of 
his  office,  enter  into  bonds,  with  a  sufficient  security,  in  the  pe¬ 
nalty  of  not  less  than  one  thousand  dollars,  payable  to  the  coun¬ 
ty  *  ourt  for  the  benefit  of  the  county,  for  the  faithful  performance 
of  his  duty  ;  and  that  he  shall  also  take  an  oath  to  the  same  ef- 
fect  That  is  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  inspectors,  to  attend  at 
their  respective  warehouses  from  the  first  to  the  tenth  ol*  every 
month,  (Sundays  excepted.)  to  receive,  inspect,  and  deliver  out 
tobacco.  That  he  inspector  shall  enter,  in  a  book  to  be  kept 
for  that  purpose,  the  marks  and  owners’  names  of  all  tobacco 
brought  to  the  respective  warehouses  for  inspection,  in  the 
order  in  which  the  same  shhll  be  brought  in  ;  and  such 
inspector  shall  view  and  inspect  the  same  in  due  time,  as 
shall  he  entered  in  such  hook,  without  favor  or  partiality,  and 
shall  uncase  and  break  in  at  least  two  places  in  every  hogshead 
or  cask  of  tobacco  brought  to  be  inspected  as  aforesaid  ;  and  if 
he  shall  find  the  same  to  he  good  and  well  conditioned,  mer¬ 
chantable  and  free  from  trash,  he  shall  determine  whether  such 
tobacco  is  of  the  first,  second,  or  third  quality  $  shall  weigh  the 


GENERAL  VTEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


187 


same,  and  shall  stamp  or  mark  upon  the  hogshead  or  cask,  with 
the  name  of  the  owner  and  of  the  person  by  whom  raised  (if 
known,)  the  name  of  the  warehouse  at  which  inspected,  and 
also  the  tare  of  the  hogshead  or  cask,  the  quantity  of  nett  to¬ 
bacco  therein  contained,  and  whether  the  same  is  of  the  first,  se¬ 
cond,  or  third  quality.  The  inspector  shall  issue  a  receipt  to  ibis 
effect  if  required  by  the  owner.  The  act  also  provides  that  when 
any  tobacco  shall  be  refused  by  the  inspector,  the  proprietor 
thereof  shall  be  at  liberty  to  separate  the  good  from  the  bad  for 
re  inspection  ;  but  if  he  refuse  so  to  do,  then  it  shall  be  the  duty 
of  the  said  inspector  to  weigh,  prize  and  cooper  up  the  same, 
and  mark  the  gross  v\  eight  on  the  cask,  and  take  care  of  and  de¬ 
liver  the  same  to  the  owner.  And  for  the  prevention  of  frauds, 
the  inspector  shall  grant  a  manifest  or  certificate  for  each  hogs¬ 
head*  of  tobacco  so  refused,  specifying  the  weight  of  the  same, 
and  that  the  same  had  been  inspected  and  refused  ;  and  if  any 
person  shall  sell  refused  tobacco,  or  manufacture  the  same  with¬ 
out  such  manifest,  he  shall  forfeit  and  pay  the  sum  of  fifty  dol¬ 
lars  for  every  hogshead  so  sold  or  manufactured,  one  half  to  the 
person  sueing  for  the  same,  and  the  residue  for  the  benefit  of  the 
county  in  which  the  offence  shall  be  committed.  This  act  further 
provides,  that  no  tobacco  shall  be  exported  from  this  state  unless 
the  same  shall  he  packed  in  hogsheads  or  casks  taken  from  some 
public  warehouse  thus  established,  and  received  and  inspected 
as  above  directed — and  that  any  person  exporting  any  uninspec¬ 
ted  tobacco  to  any  port  or  place  without  the  limits  of  this  state, 
shall  forfeit  and  pay  the  sum  of  six  and  one  fourth  cents  for  ev  ery 
pound  of  tobacco  so  exported,  to  be  received  and  applied  as  is 
directed  in  the  case  of  penalties  for  shipping  refused  tobacco. 

Animals.  In  addition  to  the  animals  mentioned  in  the  gen¬ 
eral  view'  of  Illinois,  may  be  added,  as  common  in  this  state,  the 
Bison  and  Elk.  Immense  herds  of  the  former  are  frequently  seen 
covering  the  extensive  plains  which  stretch  along  the  western 
part  of  this  state.  During  dry  seasons,  they  remain  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  rivers  ,*  but  they  uniformly  emigrate  to  the 
south  upon  the  approach  of  winter. 

Minerals.  The  mineral  riches  of  Missouri  arc  not  excelled, 
if  equalled,  by  any  of  the  United  States,  and  must  render  it  pros- 


188 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


perous  and  wealthy.  Of  the  ores,  the  most  abundant  and  valu¬ 
able  that  have  as  yet  been  discovered,  arc  those  of  lead  and 
iron. 

According  to  Mr.  Schoolcraft,  who  lias  written  a  very  excel¬ 
lent  work  on  the  lead  mines  of  Missouri,  “  the  district  of  coun¬ 
try  which  is  characterized  by  affording  lead  ore,  extends  in 
length  from  the  head  waters  of  the  St.  Francis  in  a  northwest 
direction,  to  the  Merrimack,  a  distance  of  70  miles  ;  and  in 
breadth  from  the  Mississippi  in  a  southwest  direction  to  the 
Fourche  a  Courtois,  a  distance  of  about  45  miles,  and  covering 
an  area  of  3150  square  miles.”  The  same  author  observes, 

that  it  is  not  upon  every  particular  section  of  this  tract  that 
the  ore  can  be  traced,  and  that  the  fact  of  its  existence  cannot 
he  ascertained  by  the  character  of  the  soil,  rocks,  or  other  fossil 
bodies.  But  still  there  is  no  considerable  part  of  the  tract  on 
which  the  ore  is  not  to  be  found.  The  general  aspect  of  the 
country  is  sterile  and  hilly  ;  in  some  places  the  hills  rise  into 
abrupt  cliffs.  Highland  barrens,  level  and  sterile,  are  here  and 
there  to  be  seen.  The  soil,  is  of  a  reddish  coloured  clay, 
stiff  and  hard,  and  full  of  fragments  of  flinty  stone,  quartz 
and  gravel  :  this  extends  to  the  depth  of  from  10  to  20  feet,  and 
is  bottomed  on  limestone  rock.  It  is  so  compact  in  many  places 
as  almost  to  resist  the  pickaxe  ;  in  others,  it  seems  to  partake  of 
marl,  is  less  gravelly,  and  readily  penetrated.  The  country  is 
particularly  characterized  by  quartz,  which  is  strewed  in  de¬ 
tached  pieces  over  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  is  also  imbed¬ 
ded  in  the  soil  at  all  depths.  This  is  here  called  blossom  of  lead. 
Iron  ores  and  pyrites  are  also  sc  attered  over  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  and  occasionally  lead  ore.?? 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  mines  given  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft 
It  comprises  those  of  most  note  in  1818;  since  w  hich  time,  how¬ 
ever.  in  consequence  of  the  increased  attention  paid  to  the  work¬ 
ing  of  this  valuable  ore,  the  number  has  been  much  increased. 


Mine  a  Burton, 
Mine  a  Robino, 
Mine  a  Martin, 
New  Diggings, 
Ferry’s  Diggings, 


Moreau’s  Diggings, 
Tapley’s  Diggings, 
Lambert’s  Diggings, 
Old  Mines, 

Min$  Shibboleth, 


general  view  qp  Missouri. 


180 


Hawkins’  Mine, 

Elliot’s  Mines, 

Rosebury’s  Mine, 

Belle  Fountaine, 

Austin’s  Shaft, 

Cannon’s  Mines, 

Jones’  Shaft, 

Little  Diggings, 

Rocky  Diggings, 

Becquet’s  Diggings, 

Gravelly  Diggings, 

Mine  Liberty, 

Brushy-run  Diggings, 

Renault’s  Mines, 

Stricklin’s  Diggings, 

Miller’s  Mines, 

Bibb's  Diggings, 

Mine  Silvers,  ^ 

Tebault’s  Diggings, 

Fourche  a  Courtois, 

Mine  Astraddle, 

Pratt’s  Mine, 

Masson’s  Diggings,  alias  Part- 

Lebaum’s  Mine, 

ney’s  do. 

Mine  a  Joe, 

I.  Scott’s  Diggings, 

Brian’s  Mine, 

T.  Scott’s  Diggings, 

Doggefs  Mine, 

Micheaux’s  Diggings, 

Mine  La  Motte, 

Henry’s  Diggings, 

McKane’s  Mine, 

Citadel  Diggings, 

Gray’s  Mine. 

By  far  the  greatest  proportion  ol  these  mines  are  situated  in 
Washington  and  St.  Francois  counties  5  a  few  of  them,  however? 
are  in  St.  Genevieve  and  Jefferson. 

According  to  the  author  above  quoted,  “  the  ore  is  found  in 
detached  pieces,  and  solid  masses,  in  veins  and  beds,  in  red  (  lay, 
and  accompanied  by  sulphate  of  barytes ,  calcareous  spar ,  blende, 
iron  pyrites  and  quartz.  The  ore  is  of  that  kind  called  by  mirr 
eralogists,  lead  glance,  or  galena,  and  is  the  sulphuret  of  lead  of 
chemistry.  As  it  is  dug  up,  or  quarried  from  the  adhering  spar, 
it  presents  a  very  rich  appearance.  It  has  a  broa<J  glittering 
grain,  of  a  lead-gray  colour,  which  sometimes  passes  into  a  blu¬ 
ish  shade.  This  particular  colour  may  not  be  recognized  on  a 
superficial  view,  for  when  the  ore  is  piled  in  shining  heaps  at  the 
mouths  of  the  mines,  there  is  so  rich  and  dazzling  a  reflection  of 
light,  that  it  appears  white,  and  a  person  unacquainted  with  ores, 
might  readily  mistake  it  for  silver.  The  ore  is  easily  broken 
by  the  blow  of  a  hammer,  and  may  be  pounded  to  a  fine  powder  ; 
it  still  preserves  its  glittering  appearance,  and  is  sometimes  used 
in  this  state  as  paper  sand,  for  which  it  is  an  elegant  substitute 
In  breaking  it,  a  mathematical  law  is  observable  ^  it  always  se- 


190 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


parates  in  rubes,  which  are  more  or  less  perfects  and  on  pound¬ 
ing,  it  continues  to  preserve  this  figure,  until  the  particles  be¬ 
come  too  minute  to  discover  their  partic  ular  shape.  Sometimes 
detached  lumps  of  four  or  five  pounds  weight,  of  a  cubical  form, 
are  found  imbedded  in  the  clay.  Its  primitive  figure  of  crystal* 
lization,  is  particularly  observable  after  the  ore  Iras  been  dcsul- 
phurated  by  heat,  which,  at  the  same  time,  increases  its  splen¬ 
dor,  and  renders  the  lines  of  intersection  between  the  facets  in 
which  the  ore  is  crystallized,  more  plainly  discoverable.” 

“  The  most  valuable  substance  accompanying  the  lead  ore,  is 
blende ,  an  ore  of  zinc,  which  is  found  at  several  of  the  mines  ; 
and  there  is  reason  to  conclude  that  large  bodies  of  it  exist# 
This  is  the  sulphuret  of  zinc  of  chemistry,  and  is  the  same  sub¬ 
stance  called  blackjack  by  tire  English  miners,  and  sometimes 
called  pseudo  galena,  and  mock  lead ,  in  writings  on  this  subject. 
As  few  are  acquainted  w  ith  its  nature  or*  properties,  and  no  one 
appears  to  be  aware  of  its  uses,  no  search  has  been  made  for  it ; 
and,  indeed,  in  digging,  they  have  rather  avoided  places  where 
it  is  most  abundant,  considering  it  a  useless  thing.” 

Besides  the  inexhaustible  quantities  of  lead  which  are  found 
in  the  mine  tract,  iron  is  also  very  abundant  in  different  parts  of 
the  state,  and  is  not  exceeded  in  richness  by  any  ore  in  the  U. 
States.  “  In  Bellevue,  Washington  county,”  says  Mr.  School¬ 
craft,  “  in  the  richness  of  the  ore,  and  extent  of  the  beds  or 
mines,  it  is  nowhere  paralleled.  The  most  noted  place  is  called 
the  Iron  mountain ,  where  the  ore  is  piled  in  such  enormous 
masses  as  to  constitute  the  entire  southern  extremity  of  a  lofty 
ridge,  which  is  elevated  five  or  six  hundred  feet  above  the  plain. 
The  ore  is  very  heavy  and  brilliant,  and  is  of  that  kind  denomi¬ 
nated  micaceous  oocyd  of  iron  in  mineralogy.” 

“There  is  another  remarkable  body  of  iron  ore  in  Stout’s 
settlement,  five  miles  west  of  the  Iron  mountain,  scarcely  in¬ 
ferior  to  it  either  in  the  extent  or  richness  of  its  ore.  It  has  also 
a  seat  for  w  ater  works  near  it.  Several  other  beds  exist  in  the 
same  neighbourhood,  but  none  equal  to  the  surprising  bodies 
already  mentioned.” 

I  shall  conclude  this  article  with  the  following  catalogue  of 
minerals,  which  occur  in  Missouri  and  Illinois.  With  few  ex¬ 
ceptions,  however,  they  exclusively  belong  to  the  former. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OP  MISSOURI 


191 


Alkaline  Salts. 

Nitrate  of  potash ,  salt  petre.  ( Localities )  This  mineral  is 
foun.'l  in  abundance  in  several  caverns  on  the  Merrimack  and 
Currents  rivers,  ( Schoolcraft. )  Also  in  similar  situations, 
near  Ashley’s  powder  mills  on  the  Gasconade,  100  miles  west  of 
St.  Louis. 

Muriate  of  soda ,  common  salt.  Salt  springs  are  found  in  al¬ 
most  every  part  of  the  state.  The  most  extensive  works  are 
situated  near  Franklin,  Herculaneum,  and  St.  Genevieve.* 

Earthy  Salts. 

Sulphate  of  barytes ,  heavy  spar.  In  ’ Washington,  Jefferson, 
and  St.  Francois  counties,  where  it  forms  the  gangue  of  the  lead 

*The  general  assembly  have  caused  to  be  selected  six  of  the  twelve  salt  springs  for  the  use  of 
this  state,  with  the  land  adjoining  to  each,  under  an  act  of  the  congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled 
“  An  act  to  authorise  the  people  of  Missouri  territory  to  form  a  constitution  and  state  government, 
and  fur  the  admission  of  such  state  into  the  union  on  an  equal  footing  with  the  original  states,  and 
to  prohibit  slavery  in  certain  territories,”  viz:  First,  the  Buffalo  lick,  in  range  1G,  town  50  north, 
sections  12,  13,  and  the  north  half  of  section  14,  they  being  reserved  by  government,  and  of  the  ad¬ 
joining  lands  the  folio  wing,  northeast  and  northwest  of  15,  n  rtheast,  southwest  and  southeast  frac¬ 
tion  of  10,  containing  60  acres,  southeast  and  east  half  of  southwest  of  1,  range  15,  town  50,  west  half 
of  northwest  of  19  northwest,  southwest  and  southeast  of  18, and  also  the  west  half  of  northeast  of 
18,  southwest  and  east  half  of  southeast  of  7,  and  northeast  of  same,  w  est  half  of  6,  and  so  much  of 
the  northeast  oi  6  as  shall  make  the  complement,  including  the  southeast  quarter  of  36,  town  51, 
range  16.  Second,  Salt  pond,  in  range  15  west,  and  town  50  north,  section  12,  on  the  northwest  of 
which  is  the  spring  northeast,  northwest  and  southeast  of  1,  sections  2  1 1,  northeast  and  southeast 
of  10,  northwest  and  west  half  of  northeast  of  14.  northeast  and  northwest  of  13,  in  range  14,  town  50, 
northwest  and  west  half  of  northeast  of  7,  southwest  and  southeast  of  6,  situated  on  the  north  of  the 
Missouri  river,  and  about  14  miles  from  Fran  klin.  Third,  the  Moneteau  lick,  in  range  15  west,  and 
township49  north,  sections  2and  11,  reserved  by  government,  and  the  following,  viz  northeastand 
east  half  of  northwest  of  12,  west  half  of  southeast  of  1,  northeast  and  southeast  of  4,  northwest  and 
east  half  of  southwest  of  10  in  town  50,  southeast  ami  east  half  of  southwest  of  26,  northeast,  south¬ 
east  and  southwest  of  35,  southwest  of  36,  .own  49,  range  14,  northeast  and  northwest  of  7,  northeast, 
northwest  and  west  half  of  southeast  of  6,  southwest  and  west  half  of  the  southeast  of31  of  town  50, 
range!4,  situated  on  the  north  of  the  Missouri,  and  about  6  miles  from  the  Missouri  river.  Fourth, 
in  range  20  west,  town  50  north,  sections  27,  28  and  33.  reserved  by  government,  situate  about  8 
miles  from  the  Missouri  river,  on  the  south  side,  and  on  the  Salt  fork  of  theLamine.  Fifth,  range 

19  and  20,  township  43,  aspring  at  present  occupied  by  Elias  Barcroft  and  Bird  Lockhart,  situated 
on  the  northeast,  northwest,  southeast  quarters  of  section  24,  the  northeast  of  25,  the  northeast  aDd 
southeast  of  14,  entire  section  13  of  range  19,  town  48,  sections  19  and  30,  northeast  and  northwest  of 

20  and  21,  north  half  of  31,  being  situated  about  7  miles  from  the  navigable  water  of  the  Lamiue. 
Sixth,  range  19,  town  48,  spring  situated  on  the  southwest  quarter  of  section  13,  (at  present  occupied 
by  Kobert  and  John  G.  Heath)  and  the  residue  of  section  13,  sections  1  and  2,  southeast  of  3,  north¬ 
east  of  10,  the  whole  of  il,and  the  northeast  aud  northwest  of  23.  and  section  12,  being  within  a 
half  amde  of  the  navigable  water  of  the  Lamine. 

Commissioners  have  also  been  appointed  by  the  general  assembly,  for  the  purpose  of  making  a 
selection  of  six  additional  salt  springs,  with  six  section  of  land  adjoining  each,  in  pursuance  of  the 
above  act  of  congress;  who  are  to  report  to  the  next  general  assembly. 


192 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


ore.  It  has  also  been  found  in  small  quantities  in  St.  Louis^ 
accompanying  the  same  ore.  The  specimen  which  I  sawp 
avhs  obtained  from  a  well  which  had  been  recently  dug,  about 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  earth.  This  mi¬ 
neral  is  also  found  on  the  Gasconade  river,  and  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  state. 

Calcareous  spar  In  the  mine  district  it  occurs  in  white  or 
honey  yellow,  transparent  masses,  in  a  red  marly  clay.  At 
Bryan’s  mines  it  forms  the  matrix  of  the  lead  ore. — ( School¬ 
craft.  J 

Compact  limestone.  This  constitutes  the  basis  rock  at  St. 
Louis,  and  other  places  on  the  Mississippi.  It  is  of  a  greyish 
blue  colour,  and  is  filled  with  shells. 

Chalk.  On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  in  Cape  Girardeau 
county.  ( Schoolcraft. J 

Agaric  mineral .  This  mineral  is  found  as  a  sediment  in  a 
spring  in  St.  Clair  county,  Illinois.  ( Schoolcraft. ) 

Concreted  carbonate  of  lime .  In  Gallatin  county,  Illinois,  on 
Peter’s  creek,  in  globular  concretions  about  the  size  of  mustard- 
seed  shot,  composed  of  concentric  layers,  embracing  a  nucleus  ; 
sometimes  the  nucleus  is  wanting,  and  a  cavity  appears  in  or 
near  the  centre  of  the  globule.  The  globules  are  united  by  a 
calcareous  cement.  ( Jessup ,  in  Cleaveland’s  Minerulogij.J 

Calcareous  sinter.  Beautiful  specimens  are  found  in  the  ca¬ 
verns  about  one  mile  and  a  half  south  of  St.  Louis.  In  one  of 
these  there  is  a  stalactite  of  upwards  of  three  feet  in  diameter, 
extending  from  the  roof  to  the  floor. 

Foetid fluate  of  lime.  In  Gallatin  county,  Illinois,  on  Peter’s 
creek,  17  miles  from  Shawneetown  ;  at  the  three  forks  of 
Grand  Pierre  creek,  27  miles  from  Shaw  neetown ;  and  also 
occasionally  on  the  soil,  for  30  miles  southwest  from  Cave 
in  Rock  on  the  Ohio.  It  occurs  massive,  and  in  cubes,  either 
perfect  or  truncated,  solitary  or  aggregated,  and  is  associated 
with  galena,  &c.  in  alluvial  deposite,  or  in  veins  which  appear 
to  traverse  compact  limestone  and  calcareous  sandstone.  At 
Peter’s  creek,  it  is  almost  always  in  crystals,  sometimes  several 
inches  in  diameter,  presenting  verv  rich  and  beautiful  colours. 
Though  sometimes  limpid,  and  sometimes  nearly  black,  its  more 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


193 


common  colours  are  sonic  shade  of  v  iolet,  purple,  red  or  yellow. 
The  limpid  and  yellow  crystals  are  sometimes  invested  with  a 
thin  violet  or  red  coat.  It  is  usually  phosphorescent  by  heat, 
excepting  when  nearly  black.  The  coloured  crystals  are  often 
fetid  by  percussion.  At  the  forks  of  Grand  Pierre  cr  eek,  it  oc¬ 
curs  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  masses,  which  are  sometimes 
several  feet  in  diameter.  Its  colours  are  violet,  rose,  and  green. 
C Jessup  and  Stillman ,  in  Cleaveland's  Minei  alogy.J 

Sulphate  of  lime.  Gypsum.  In  Missouri .  The  cliffs  on  the 
Kansas  river  frequently  consist  of  solid  strata  of  this  mineral. 
( Brackenridge  )  On  Blue-water  cr  eek.  (Lewis  <$•  Clark  )— 
On  the  banks  of  the  Femme  Osage,  about  40  miles  from  St. 
Charles,  in  compact  masses.  In  Illinois ,  St.Clair  county,  where 
it  occurs  crystallized.  ( Schoolcraft. J 

Salts  with  an  Alkaline  and  Earthy  Base. 

Sulphate  of  Mumine  and  Potash.  Alum.  In  Missouri ,  in  a  cave 
in  Bellevue,  Washington  county,  where  it  is  found  effloresced. 
( Schoolcraft. )  In  Illinois ,  near  Fort  Edwards,  in  Pike  county- 

i 

Earthy  Compounds. 

Common  quartz.  On  the  south  bank  of  White  river,  where  it 
occurs  in  large  masses.  ( ScJwolcraf.J 

Fellow  quartz.  Citrine.  On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  be¬ 
tween  Cape  Girardeau  and  St.  Louis,  Missouri,  where  it  occurs 
in  rolled  masses,  varying  in  colour  from  pale  orange  yellow  to 
yellowish  red.  ( Schoolcraft  J 

Radiated  quartz.  This  variety  is  very  abundant  in  Washing¬ 
ton  and  St.  Francois  counties,  Missouri.  It  is  found  in  the  soil 
in  masses  of  different  sizes,  and  is  called  by  the  inhabitants  mi¬ 
neral  blossom ,  from  its  being  supposed,  erroneously  however,  to 
indicate  the  presence  of  lead  ore. 

Granular  quartz.  In  Missouri ,  eight  miles  nearly  west  of  St. 
Genevieve,  it  is  white,  friable,  and  falls  into  transparent 
grains.  ( Schoolcraft. )  On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  river, 
a  few  miles  above  St.  Genevieve,  and  in  Montgomery  county. 

Ferruginous  quartz.  In  Missouri ,  on  the  banks  ot  the  Mer- 


deep  red  colour,  possessing  a  flinty  hardness  and  vitreous  lustre* 

(  Schoolcraft.  J 

S5 


194 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI, 


Chalcedony .  In  Missouri ,  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  at 
Herculaneum  ;  also  on  Establishment  creek,  in  St.  Genevieve 
county.  Its  colour  is  milk  white,  yellowish  white,  or  brownish 
yellow;  sometimes  spotted,  zoned,  or  dentritic.  Also  in  Wash¬ 
ington  county,  where  it  appears  in  concentric  bluish  white  lay¬ 
ers,  invested  with  crystals  of  radiated  and  mamillary  quartz, 
C Schoolcraft , j  In  amorphous  masses,  on  the  banks  of  the  Mis¬ 
souri  near  St.  Charles.  In  Illinois ,  on  the  banks  of  the  Illinois 
river  near  Fort  Clark. 

Cornelian.  On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  at  Herculaneum 
and  St.  Louis,  and  on  the  Missouri  at  St.  Charles,  in  rolled, 
brown,  red  and  yellow  masses. 

Precious  opal  Beautiful  specimens  of  this  mineral  are  found 
near  Cave  in  Rock,  Gallatin  county,  Illinois.  I  have  a  single 
specimen,  similar  to  that  described  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft. 

Opalizea  wood .  On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri 
rivers,  at  St.  Louis  and  St.  Charles. 

Flint,  On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  near  Cape  Girardeau, 
in  nodules  and  veins,  or  strata,  embraced  in  a  horizontal  bed  of 
white  clay.  ('Jessup  in  Cleaveland.)  Also  at  St.  Louis,  in  the 
secondary  limestone,  in  nodules  and  veins. 

Hornstone.  This  mineral  is  continually  found  on  the  banks  of 
the  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  imbedded  in  the  secondary  lime¬ 
stone. 

Jlgatized  wood.  On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  at  Hercu¬ 
laneum,  St.  Louis,  and  St.  Charles,  accompanying  jasper  and 
carnelian. 

Buhrs  one.  Millstone.  In  Illinois ,  near  the  junction  of  the  Il¬ 
linois  river  with  the  Mississippi. 

Jasper.  In  Missouri,  in  the  bed  of  Cave  creek,  near  the  head 
of  Currents  river,  in  a  stratum  of  secondary  limestone  (School¬ 
craft.)  Also  in  rolled  masses  of  different  colours,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  at  St  Louis  and  St.  Charles, 
accompanying  agatized  wood  and  carnelian 

Onyx  agate .  This  variety  of  agate  is  found  on  the  w  est  bank 
of  Establishment  creek,  eight  miles  from  St.  Genevieve,  n  he; 
road  to  Potosi.  It  occurs  in  bluish  white,  pale  blue,  and  dark 
blue  masses,  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  also  associated 
with  chalcedony  and  hornstone.  ( Schoolcraft. J 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


193 


Pumice .  This  mineral  floats  down  the  Missouri,  and  is  found 
deposited  on  the  sand-bars  at  St.  Louis  and  St.  Charles. 

Short.  Ill  defined  crystals  of  this  mineral  are  found  in  cer¬ 
tain  granitic  aggregates  in  Madison  county,  Missouri.  {School¬ 
er  aft.) 

Feldspar .  Flesh  red  crystals  of  this  mineral  are  found  im¬ 
bedded  in  greenstone  on  St.  Francis  river,  at  a  place  railed  the 
Narrows,  in  Madison  county,  Missouri.  ( Schoolcraft ) 

Hornblende.  Crystals  of  this  mineral,  imbedded  in  masses  of 
greenstone,  are  found  near  Fort  Clark  on  the  Illinois  river. 

Steatite .  Soapstone.  In  Missouri ,  it  is  found  in  the  vicinity  of 
old  Fort  Mason,  of  a  yellow  and  green  colour  intermixed — 
( Schoolcraft .)  I  have  in  my  possession  a  pipe  made  of  this  mi¬ 
neral,  which  I  was  informed  had  been  obtained  a  few  miles  above 
Fort  Clark  on  the  Illinois  river. 

Jlrgillaceous  slate.  It  is  found  overlaying  shale  on  the  Mis¬ 
souri,  at  La  Charboniere,  six  miles  above  St.  Charles. 

Shale.  On  the  Missouri  under  the  above.  It  rests  upon  coal 
and  sometimes  alternates  with  it, 

Novaculite.  In  Arkansas  Territory ,  this  mineral  occurs  of  a 
good  quality.  It  is  of  a  grayish  and  greenish  white  colour,  and 
is  translucent.  ( Schoolcraft. )  I  have  been  informed  that  this 
mineral  is  also  found  in  the  southern  part  of  Missouri 

Potters9  Clay.  On  the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  commen¬ 
cing  at  the  head  of  Tywapety  bottom,  about  40  miles  above  the 
junction  of  the  Ohio,  and  extending  for  34  miles  to  nearly  six 
miles  above  the  Grand  Tower.  The  stratum  varies  in  thickness 
from  one  to  ten  feet,  rests  upon  sandstone  and  is  covered  by  shell 
limestone,  containing  well  characterized  nodules  and  veins  of 
flint.  ('Jessup,  in  Cleav eland)  Also,  at  Gray’s  mine  in  Jeffer¬ 
son  county,  ten  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  snow 
white,  unctious,  becomes  plactic  by  mixture  with  water  and  is 
infusible  in  a  very  high  heat.  ( Schoolcraft. ) 

Fuller's  Earth.  In  Missouri ,  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi 
river  at  Tywapety  and  Bois-brule  bottoms,  and  also  near  St. 
Genevieve.  (  Schooler  aft. ) 

Reddle.  Red  Chalk.  This  mineral  occurs  in  a  bed  of  con¬ 
siderable  extent  in  Washington  county,  Missouri.  fSc/toeb- 
waft.) 


196 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI, 


Combustibles. 

Sulphur .  Several  springs  in  the  vic  inity  of  Herculaneum  arc 
liighly  impregnated  with  this  mineral.  It  is  deposited  on  the 
stones  over  which  the  water  runs  in  the  form  of  a  yellowish  crust. 
This  is  also  the  c  ase  at  the  spring,  five  miles  west  of  St.  Louis. 

Graphite.  In  Madison  and  Washington  counties,  Missouri* 
It  occ  urs  in  lamina;  and  nodules,  disseminated  in  iron  ore. 

Coal.  In  Missouri,  at  Florissant,  18  miles  north  of  St.  Louis, 
and  on  Osage  river.  ( Schoolcraft. )  At  La  Charboniere,  on 
the  Missouri  river.  Judge  Pettibone  has  also  recently  discov¬ 
ered  this  mineral  in  the  town  of  St.  Charles.  In  Illinois ,  near 
the  junction  of  Fox  river  with  the  Illinois,  40  miles  southwest 
from  Chicago.  ( Schoolcraft. J  Also,  near  Alton,  on  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi. 

OllES. 

Native  copper.  In  Illinois,  in  detached  masses,  lying  on  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  seven  miles  east  of  Han  isonville,  Monroe 
county  ;  also  on  Big  Muddy  river.  ( Schoolcraft. J  Also  in 
rounded  masses  near  Peoria.  1  obtained  a  specimen  from  this 
place  which  weighed  about  two  pounds.  ( See  Fort  Clark.) 

Snlphuret  of  iron.  Iron  pyrites.  In  Missouri,  on  the  branch¬ 
es  of  the  Merrimack,  and  at  several  mines  in  Washington  coun¬ 
ty  ;  crystallized,  and  in  lamellar  masses,  sometimes  intersper¬ 
sed  with  blende,  heavy  spar  and  galena.  ( Schoolcraft. )  Also, 
in  Pike  county,  near  Louisiana,  in  globular  masses,  which  are 
sometimes  radiated.  In  Illinois ,  near  Alton,  alternating  with 
coal. 

Magnetic  oxide  of  iron .  I  have  in  my  possession  a  specimen 
of  this  mineral,  found  near  the  Hot  Springs,  in  Arkansas  terri¬ 
tory.  1  have  been  informed  that  it  occurs  in  the  southern  part 
of  Missouri. 

Micaceous  oxide  of  iron.  At  the  Narrows,  Madison  county ' 
Missouri,  a  vein  of  this  ore  is  found  traversing  red  granite. — 
( Schoolcraft )  Also  in  Bellevue,  Washington  county.  (Sec 
page  190.J 

Compact  red  oxide  of  iron .  On  the  head  waters  of  Gasconade 
river.  (  School  craft.  J 

Ochrey  red  oxide  of  iron.  Red  ochre.  In  Cape  Girardeau 
county,  six  iniics  west  of  the  Mississippi  river.  ( Schoolcraft. J 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


m 


ffemalitic  brown  oxide  of  iron .  Brown  hematite.  In  Illinois , 
Gallatin  county,  on  Peter  s  creek,  17  miles  from  Shawneetow o 
and  at  the  three  forks  of  Grand  Pierre  creek,  in  considerable 
quantities.  ( Jessup ,  in  Cleaveland.J  Capt.  Kennedy  of  St* 
Louis,  presented  me  with  a  specimen  of  this  mineral,  which  was 
found  on  the  Missouri,  near  the  junction  of  the  Kansas  river. 

Sulphate  of  iron.  Copperas.  This  mineral  is  found  efflores¬ 
ced  on  the  sulphuret  of  iron  at  Alton,  in  Madison  county,  Illi¬ 
nois. 

Sulphuret  of  lead .  Galena.  In  Missouri ,  in  the  counties  of 
Washington,  St.  Genevieve,  St.  Francoise,  Madison  and  Jeffer¬ 
son.  ( See  page  189.)  Also,  at  St.  Louis,  and  in  the  vicinity  of 
St.  Charles,  and  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Osage  river.  In  Illi¬ 
nois,  in  Gallatin  county,  near  Shawneetown.  (Jessup.)  Also  on 
Bean  river,  w  here  the  ore  is  extensively  worked. 

Carbonate  of  lead.  In  Missouri ,  at  Mine  a  Burton.  In  Illi¬ 
nois,  at  Cave  in  Rock.  In  both  these  situations,  it  is  frequently 
found  incrusting  galena.  ( Schoolcraft .) 

Sulphuret  of  zinc.  Blende.  This  mineral  is  found  associated 
with  sulphuret  of  lead  at  the  mines  in  Washington,  Jefferson  and 
St.  Francois  counties,  Missouri. 

Oxide  of  manganese.  Near  the  head  of  the  Merrimack  river, 
in  Missouri,  accompanying  ores  of  iron.  (Schoolcraft.) 

Sulphuret  of  antimony-  Specimens  of  this  mineral  have  been 
found  in  Washington  county,  Missouri,  and  thirty  miles  north  of 
Edvvardsville  in  Illinois.  (Schoolcraft  ) 

Climate.  It  should  be  remembered  that  the  valley  of  the 
Mississippi  is  bounded  on  the  east  and  w  est  by  ranges  of  moun¬ 
tains,  and  on  the  north  by  a  chain  of  lakes  extending  in  a  north¬ 
westerly  direction  to  the  Frozen  Ocean.  These  of  course  have 
a  powerful  influence  upon  its  winds,  and  consequently  upon  its 
climate.  W  ithout  farther  introduction,  I  shall  proceed  to  state 
the  results  of  observations  made  at  St.  Louis,  which  is  about  a 
central  point  for  the  states  of  Missouri  and  Illinois. 

Temperature.  The  following  results  are  drawn  from  three 
years’  observations,*  made  upon  the  state  of  the  thermometer. 

*  Duringtlie  years  1817 — 18 — 19,  these  observations  were  made  by  the  Rev.  Mr.Giddings,pa$tos: 
<5f  the  Presbyterian  chixych  at  St.  Jiouis,  who  permitted  me  to  calculate  their  results. 


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GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI, 


Mean  temperature  for  1817,  55.52 

Do.  do.  from  the  beginning  of 
May,  1818,  to  the  end  of  April,  1819,  56.98 

Mean  temperature  for  1820,  56.18 

The  mean  of  these  results  is  about  fifty-six  degrees  and  a  quar¬ 
ter,  which,  although  the  number  of  observations  does  not  war¬ 
rant  a  positive  conclusion,  may  be  regarded  as  the  standard  tem¬ 
perature  of  this  place. 

The  mean  temperature  of  each  month  during  the  above  years, 
is  as  follows  : 


January, 

30.62 

February, 

38.65 

March, 

43.13 

April, 

58.47 

May, 

62.66 

June, 

74.47 

July, 

7  8.66 

August, 

72.88 

September, 

70.10 

October, 

59.00 

November, 

53.13 

December, 

34.33] 

The  following  statement  will  exhibit  the  annual  range  of  the 
thermometer : 

1817  Lowest  5°  below  0  Highest  1G1  Range  96 
1818—19  8°  above  0  96  88 

1820  6°  below  0  100  94 

The  average  monthly  range  during  these  years,  is  as  follows* 


January,  from 

3  to 

59  Range 

56 

February, 

6 

74 

68 

March, 

16 

73 

57 

April, 

32 

83 

51 

May, 

43 

89 

46 

June, 

52 

94 

42 

July, 

61 

99 

38 

August, 

59 

96 

37 

September, 

40 

92 

50 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


199 


October,  from 

24  to 

81  Range 

57 

November, 

37 

78 

41 

December, 

19 

63 

44 

The  mean  temperature  of  the  different  seasons  is  as  follows  : 
Winter,  34,53 — Spring,  54.74 — Summer,  75.34 — Autumn,  60.7 7 

The  winter  generally  sets  in  about  the  beginning  of  Decem¬ 
ber,  and  continues  until  the  end  of  February.  It  sometimes, 
however,  varies  much,  being  either  longer  or  shorter.  Within  the 
last  20  years,  the  character  mf  the  winters  appears  to  have  been 
continually  changing.  Maj.  Stoddard,  in  his  sketches  of  Louis¬ 
iana,  observes  :  “  For  three  successive  winters,  commencing  in 
1802,  the  Mississippi  at  St,  Louis  was  passable  on  the  ice  before 
the  20th  of  December  each  year  ;  and  it  w  as  clear  of  all  obstruc¬ 
tion,  with  one  exception,  by  the  last  of  February.  In  January, 
1805,  the  ice  in  that  river  rather  exceeded  twenty-two  inches  in 
thickness.  There  is  seldom  more  than  six  inches  of  snow  on  the 
ground  at  the  same  time  ;  but  the  severity  of  the  weather  at  St, 
Louis  is  generally  about  the  same  as  in  the  back  parts  of  the  state 
of  New-Jersey.  The  mercury  frequently  falls  below  0  ;  and 
the  cold  keeps  it  depressed  as  low  as  ten  or  fifteen  degrees  for 
several  weeks  during  each  winter.” 

*%  The  winters  of  St.  Louis,”  says  Mr.  Brackenridge,  “  are 
usually  more  mild  than  in  the  same  latitudes  east  of  the  Allegha¬ 
ny  mountains,  but  there  are  frequently  several  days  in  succes¬ 
sion  of  weather  as  cold  as  in  Canada.  Last  January,  (1811)  af¬ 
ter  several  weeks  of  delightful  weather,  wheu  the  w  armth  was 
even  disagreeable,  the  thermometer  standing  at  78  degrees,  a 
change  took  place,  and  so  sudden,  that  in  four  days  it  fell  to  10 
degrees  below  0.  This  winter  was  also  remarkable  for  a  cir¬ 
cumstance  which  the  oldest  inhabitant  does  not  recollect  to 
have  ever  witnessed  ;  the  Mississippi  closed  over  twice,  whereas 
it  most  usually  remains  open  during  winter.”  We  have  no  par¬ 
ticular  account  of  the  winters  between  this  time  and  1817  ;  but 
it  we  may  credit  the  assertions  of  the  old  inhabitants,  they  were 
generally  temperate. 

The  mean  temperature  of  January,  1817,  was  26°:  about 
equal  to  that  of  the  same  month  in  New- York.  The  winter  of 


200 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


1818 — 19  was  very  mild,  and  exhibited  a  singular  contrast  with 
the  two  or  three  preceding.  The  mean  temperature  of  January 
was  nearly  39°  :  the  weather  continued  mild  during  the  month 
of  February,  and  the  thermometer  on  some  days  rose  to  72°. 

•  w 

At  St.  Louis  the  Mississippi  remained  open  during  the  whole 
season.  During  the  winter  of  1819 — 20,  the  Mississippi  closed 
about  the  20th  of  December,  and  remained  in  this  situation  until 
the  10th  of  February.  The  mean  temperature  of  January  was 
27°;  varying  but  little  from  that  of  the  same  month  in  1817. 
On  two  occasions  the  mercury  fell  to  six  degrees  below  0. — 
From  ten  to  twelve  inches  of  snow  fell  during  the  month,  and 
continued  on  the  ground  for  three  or  four  weeks.  The  winter 
of  1820 — 21  differed  but  little  from  the  last.  The  Mississippi 
continued  closed  for  six  or  seven  weeks,  and  the  earth  was 
covered,  during  the  months  of  December  and  January,  with 
from  six  to  twelve  inches  of  snow. 

The  winter  of  1821 — 22  was  less  severe  than  the  two  former. 
About  the  first  of  December  the  cold  weather  commenced.  On 
the  22d,  the  Mississippi  closed  opposite  St.  Louis  ;  and  during 
the  remainder  of  the  month,  the  weather  was  clear  and  pleasant, 
and  the  thermometer  frequently  rose  to  60°.  On  the  4th  of  Ja¬ 
nuary,  the  mercury  fell  to  4°  below  0  ;  but  after  this  the  weather 
again  became  mild,  and  continued  so  during  the  month.  On  the 
22d  the  Mississippi  opened,  having  been  closed  since  the  22d  of 
December.  The  depth  of  snow  this  winter  never  exceeded  six 
inches. 

Concerning  the  summers,  so  little  authentic  information  can 
be  obtained,  that  it  is  difficult  to  determine  whether  they  have 
undergone  any  change ;  but  it  is  probable  that  they  remain 
nearly  the  same.  Major  Stoddard,  in  the  work  to  which  we 
have  so  often  referred,  observes,  44  We  cannot  estimate  the  de¬ 
grees  of  beat  by  any  regular  thermomctrieal  observations  for 
any  number  of  years  ;  but  in  the  summer  of  1805,  a  thermometer 
was  suspended  in  a  large  drawing-room  at  St.  Louis,  against  a 
stone  partition  wall,  and  constantly  in  a  current  of  air ;  and 
from  about  the  last  of  June  to  some  time  in  August,  the  mercury 
frequently  rose  to  ninety-six  degrees,  and  remained  at  that  point 
for  several  hours  in  the  day.”  By  a  reference  to  the  thermo- 
metrical  observations  of  which  we  have  given  an  abstract,  it 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


201 


appears,  that  on  the  30th  of  July,  18t7,  the  mercury  rose  to 
101  degrees  ;  and  on  the  19th  of  August  it  rose  to  99  degrees  ; 
and  that  during  these  two  months  it  was  frequently  up  to  96°  : 
that  in  June  and  July,  1818,  the  thermometer  frequently  attain- 
cd  the  height  of  96  degrees,  but  did  not  in  any  instance  rise 
higher  :  and  that  in  June  and  August,  1820,  it  frequently  rose 
to  96°,  and  in  July  to  100°:  The  mean  temperature  of  these 
three  summers  is  as  follows  : 

1817,  72°— 1818,  77° — 1820,  78°  nearly. 

It  may  be  remarked,  that  so  far  as  my  information  extends, 
July  is  invariably  the  hottest  month. 

The  rains  which  succeed  the  breaking  up  of  the  Mississippi, 
generally  continue  at  intervals  through  the  greater  part  of 
February  and  March,  and  constitute  what  is  called  the  rainy 
season.  The  first  spring  month  is,  therefore,  disagreeable 
and  cheerless  ;  and  the  emigrant  who  arrives  in  Missouri 
during  this  time,  forms  a  sad  opinion  of  its  climate.  But  as 
soon  as  the  rains  subside,  he  is  delighted  with  the  contrast.  The 
forests  now  put  forth  their  foliage,  the  prairies  are  covered  with 
their  brilliant  carpets,  and  all  nature  around  him  appears  to 
smile.  He  is  fanned  by  a  gentler  and  more  fragrant  breeze, 
and  is  covered  by  a  bluer ‘and  more  beautiful  sky,  than  those  to 
which  he  has  been  accustomed. 

It  has  been  justly  observed,  that  plants  furnish  data  for  the 
most  correct  conclusions  concerning  the  climate  of  a  country. 
For  the  purpose  of  giving  all  the  information  in  my  power  upon 
this  interesting  subject,  I  have  been  induced  to  present  the  fol¬ 
lowing  floral  calendar.  It  comprises  the  mean  results  of  ob¬ 
servations  made  upon  the  most  common  indigenous  and  culti¬ 
vated  plants  in  St.  Louis  and  the  vicinity. 

March  7.  Whitlow  grass,  (draba  verna,)  in  flower. 

8.  Honeysuckles  putting  forth  their  leaves. 

15.  Buds  of  the  peach  and  cherry  trees  beginning  to  open. 

18.  Elm,  (ulmus  amerirana,)  in  flower. 

20.  Wind-flower,  (anemone  thalictroides,)  in  blossom. 

22.  Crow  foot,  (ranunculus  fascicularis,)  beginning  to 
flower. 


26 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


24.  Liver-wort,  (hepatica  triloba,)  in  flower. 

Blood-root,  (sanguinaria  canadensis,)  do. 

Cherry  trees  in  lull  bloom. 

•* 

30.  Peach  trees  do. 

April  8.  Strawberries  beginning  to  flower. 

Peas  in  full  bloom. 

10.  American  cowslip,  (caltha  palustris,)  in  flower. 

12.  Redbud,  (cercis  canadensis,)  do. 

Red  currants  do. 

18.  Dogwood,  (cornus  florida,)  do. 

Columbine,  (aquilegia  canadensis,)  do. 

Sugar  maple,  (acer  saccharinum.)  do. 

22.  May-apple,  (podophyllum  peltatum,)  do. 

Papaw,  (porcelia  triloba,)  do. 

Dewberry,  (rubus  trivialis,)  do. 

30.  Full  grown  radishes  in  market. 

May  8.  Green  peas  do. 

9.  Spider  wort,  (tradescantia  virginica,)  in  flower. 

13.  Strawberries  beginning  to  ripen. 

Ladies’-slipper,  (cy pripedium  spectabile,)  in  flower. 

15.  Blue  flag,  (iris  virginica,)  do. 

Milkweed,  (asclepias  syriaca,)  do. 

New-Jersey  tea,  (ceanothua»)  do. 

29.  Cherries  beginning  to  ripen. 

June  3.  Wild  lily,  (lilium  catesbei,)  in  flower. 

7.  Poke,  (phytolacca  decandria,)  do. 

10.  Catalpa  tree  in  full  bloom. 

15.  Locust  trees  do. 

21.  St  John’s  wort,  (hypericum  perforatum,)  in  flower. 
July  10  Blackberries  ripe. 

22.  Scullcap,  (scutellaria  lateriflora,)  in  flower. 

28.  Bone-set,  (eupatorium  perfoliatum,)  do. 

Wild  senna,  (cassia  marylandica,)  do. 

Peaches  beginning  to  ripen. 

Aug.  10.  Common  golden-rod,  (solidago,)  beginning  to  flower. 
13.  Several  species  of  aster  do. 

The  autumn  is  generally  temperate.  About  the  middle  of 
October,  or  beginning  of  JNovember,  the  Indian  summer  com- 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


203 


rnences,  and  continues  from  fifteen  to  twenty  days.  During  this 
season  the  weather  is  dull  and  cheerless,  the  atmosphere  is 
smoky,  and  the  sun  and  moon  are  sometimes  almost  totally  ob¬ 
scured-  It  is  now  generally  admitted,  that  this  is  caused  by  the 
burning  of  the  withered  grass  and  herbs  on  the  extensive  prairies 
of  the  north  and  west,  which  also  accounts  for  its  increased  du¬ 
ration  as  you  proceed  westward. 

Winds.  During  the  spring,  summer  and  autumn,  southerhj 
winds  are  the  most  prevalent.  These  are  sometimes  warm  and 
arid,  at  others  cool  and  humid.  They  seldom,  however,  cause 
heavy  rains  West  and  northwest  winds  prevail  during  the 
months  of  December  and  January.  Although  these  are  generally 
dry  and  piercing,  they  frequently  accompany  storms  of  bail  and 
snow.  North  and  northeast  winds  are  comparatively  rare.  The 
latter  usually  cause  heavy  rains. 

Weather .  A  striking  feature  in  the  climate  of  this  place,  is 
the  great  proportion  of  clear  days.  The  observations  which  I 
made  during  the  year  1820,  furnish  the  following  results  : 

Clear  days,  245.  Cloudy,  110.* 

As  no  regular  record  of  the  weather  has  been  kept  for  any 
length  of  time,  either  before  or  since,  I  am  unable  to  compare 
the  above  results.  But  if  any  reliance  is  to  be  placed  upon  the 
information  of  those  who  have  resided  here  for  many  years,  the 
proportion  of  clear  days  is  by  no  means  uncommon. 

Antiquities.  Mounds,  similar  to  those  in  Illinois,  exist  in 
different  parts  of  this  state.  They  are  of  different  forms  and 

dimensions ;  sometimes  solitary,  and  sometimes  in  groups _ _ 

Fragments  of  earthen  ware,  arrow  heads,  and  human  bones,  are 
frequently  found  in  their  vicinity.  The  ruins  of  stone  buildings 
are  also  found  on  the  Gasconade  river  and  Noyer  creek,  of 
which  no  account  can  be  given  by  the  present  inhabitants.  They 
appear  to  have  been  erected  by  a  people  tolerably  skilled  in  ar¬ 
chitecture,  and  certainly  more  civilized  than  the  present  gene¬ 
ration  of  savages.  (  See  St»  Louis ,  Gasconade  river ,  and  Noyer 
creek.  J 


'  This  includes  nil  the  variable  days. 


204 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


Land  Districts.  For  the  sale  of  public  lands  in  this  state, 
three  districts  have  been  formed,  and  land  offices  established. 

The  Land  District  of  Howard ,  is  comprised  within  the  follow¬ 
ing  boundaries  :  Beginning  at  a  point  where  the  western  line  of 
range  10,  west  from  the  5th  principal  meridian,  intersects  the 
north  line  of  township  34  north  ;  thence  west  with  said  township 
line,  to  where  the  same  intersects  the  Osage  boundary  line ; 
thence  north  with  the  Osage  boundary  line,  to  the  Missouri  ri¬ 
ver  ;  thence  up  and  with  the  Missouri  river,  to  the  western  In¬ 
dian  boundary  line  at  the  mouth  of  Kansas  river  ;  thence  north 
with  the  said  western  Indian  boundary  line,  to  where  the  same 
shall  intersect  the  northern  Indian  boundary  line  ;  thence  east 
with  the  said  northern  Indian  boundary  line,  to  where  the  same 
shall  intersect  the  aforesaid  west  line  of  range  10  ;  thence  south 
with  the  said  range  line,  to  the  place  of  beginning.  The  land 
office  is  at  Franklin. 

The  Land  District  of  St.  Louis ,  is  comprised  within  the  fol¬ 
lowing  boundaries  :  Beginning  on  the  Mississippi  river,  where 
the  north  line  of  township  34  north  intersects  the  same  ;  thence 
up  and  with  the  Mississippi  river,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Des 
Moines  river  ;  thence  up  and  with  the  Des  Moines,  to  the  north 
Indian  boundary  line  ;  thence  west  with  the  said  boundary  line, 
to  the  west  line  of  range  10  west ;  thence  south  with  the  said 
range  line,  to  the  north  line  of  township  34  north  ;  thence  east 
with  the  said  township  line,  to  the  place  of  beginning.  The  land 
office  is  at  St.  Louis. 

The  Land  District  of  Cape  Girardeau ,  is  comprised  within  the 
following  boundaries :  Beginning  on  the  Mississippi  river, 
where  the  north  line  of  township  15  north  intersects  the  same  ; 
thence  up  and  with  the  Mississippi,  to  its  intersection  by  the 
north  line  of  township  54  north  ;  thence  w  est  with  the  said  north 
line  of  tow  nship  34,  to  the  Osage  boundary  line  ;  thence  w  ith  the 
said  boundary,  to  the  north  line  of  township  15  north;  thence 
cast  w  ith  the  said  township  line,  to  the  place  of  beginning.  The 
land  office  is  at  Jackson. 

Government.  The  constitution  of  this  state  w  as  adopted  by 
aconvention  at  St.  Louis,  on  the  12th  of  June,  1820.  The  pow¬ 
ers  of  government  arc  divided  into  three  distinct  departments. 


GENERAL  "VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


205 


viz:  the  legislative,  the  executive,  and  the  judiciary.  The  le¬ 
gislative  power  is  vested  in  a  general  assembly,  consisting  of  a 
senate  and  a  house  of  representatives.  The  representatives  arc 
chosen  every  second  year.  Each  county  shall  have  at  least  one 
representative,  but  the  whole  number  of  representatives  shall 
never  exceed  one  hundred.  No  person  shall  be  a  member  of 
this  house,  who  shall  not  have  attained  the  age  of  twenty-four 
years  ;  who  shall  not  be  a  free  white  male  citizen  of  the  United 
States  ;  w  ho  shall  not  have  been  an  inhabitant  of  the  state  two 
years,  and  of  the  county  which  he  represents,  one  year  previ¬ 
ous  to  the  election.  Senators  arc  chosen  every  four  years,  but 
vacate  their  seats  in  rotation.  No  person  can  be  a  senator  who 
has  not  attained  to  the  age  of  thirty  years  ;  who  shall  not  be  a  free 
white  male  citizen  of  the  United  States  ;  and  who  shall  not  have 
been  an  inhabitant  of  the  state  four  years,  and  of  the  district 
which  he  may  be  chosen  to  represent,  one  year  before  his  elec¬ 
tion.  The  senate  shall  not  consist  of  less  than  fourteen  nor  more 
than  thirty-three  members.  The  executive  power  is  vested  in  a 
gov  ernor,  who  is  elected  by  the  people  every  four  years.  He 
shall  be  at  least  thirty-five  years  of  age,  and  a  natural  born  cit¬ 
izen  of  the  United  States,  or  a  citizen  at  the  adoption  of  the  con¬ 
stitution  of  the  United  States,  or  an  inhabitant  of  that  part  of 
Louisiana,  now  in  the  state  of  Missouri,  at  the  time  of  the  ces¬ 
sion  thereof  from  France  to  the  United  States,  and  shall  have 
been  a  resident  of  the  same  at  least  four  years  next  before  his 
election.  The  governor  is  ineligible  for  the  next  four  years  af¬ 
ter  the  expiration  of  his  term  of  service.  Every  bill  which  shall 
have  been  passed  by  both  houses  of  the  general  assembly  shall, 
before  it  becomes  a  law,  be  presented  to  the  governor  for  his  sig¬ 
nature.  If  he  refuses  to  sign  it,  he  shall  return  it  with  his  objec¬ 
tions  to  the  house  in  which  it  originated.  After  which,  a  major¬ 
ity  of  all  the  members  elected  to  both  houses,  may  pass  it  into  a 
law.  A  lieutenant  governor  is  also  elected  at  the  same  time,  in 
the  same  manner,  and  for  the  same  term  with  the  governor.  The 
judiciary  is  vested  in  a  supreme  court,  in  a  chancellor,  in  circuit 
courts,  and  in  such  other  inferior  tribunals  as  the  general  assem¬ 
bly  shall  from  time  to  time  establish.  The  governor  nominates, 
and  with  the  advice  of  the  senate,  appoints  the  judges,  who  con- 


206 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


tinue  in  office  during  good  behaviour,  until  they  arrive  at  the  age 
of  sixty-five  years.  The  right  of  suffrage  is  universal.  Every 
free  white  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  who  shall  have  at¬ 
tained  to  the  age  of  twenty -one  years,  and  who  shall  have  resid¬ 
ed  in  this  state  one  year  before  an  election,  the  last  three  months 
whereof  shall  have  been  in  the  county  or  district  in  which  he  of¬ 
fers  to  vote,  shall  be  deemed  a  qualified  elector  of  all  elective  offi¬ 
cers  ;  Provided,  that  no  soldier,  seaman  or  marine,  in  the  regu¬ 
lar  army  or  navy  of  the  United  States,  shall  be  entitled  to  vote 
at  any  election  in  this  state. 

Education.  By  the  act  of  congress  admitting  this  state  into 
the  union,  one  thirty-sixth  part  of  each  township  was  granted  to 
the  state  for  the  support  of  schools,  and  one  entire  township  of 
six  miles  square  for  the  support  of  a  college. 

The  constitution  of  Missouri  provides,  that  schools  and  means 
of  education  shall  forever  be  encouraged  in  this  state  ;  and  that 
the  general  assembly  shall  take  measures  to  preserve  from  waste 
or  damage,  such  lands  as  have  been,  or  hereafter  may  be,  gran¬ 
ted  by  the  United  States  for  the  use  of  schools  within  each  town¬ 
ship  in  this  state,  and  shall  apply  the  funds  which  may  arise 
from  such  lands  in  strict  conformity  to  the  object  of  the  grant ; 
and  one  school,  or  more,  shall  be  established  in  each  township 
as  soon  as  practicable  and  necessary,  where  the  poor  shall  be 
taught  gratis. 

It  also  provides,  that  the  general  assembly  shall  take  meas¬ 
ures  for  the  improvement  of  such  lands  as  have  been,  or  hereaf¬ 
ter  may  be  granted  by  the  United  States  to  this  state,  for  the  sup¬ 
port  of  a  seminary  of  learning  ;  and  the  funds  accruing  from 
such  lands,  by  rent,  lease,  or  in  any  other  manner,  or  which 
may  be  attained  from  any  other  source  for  the  purposes  afore¬ 
said,  shall  be  and  remain  a  permanent  fund  to  support  a  univer¬ 
sity  for  the  promotion  of  literature,  and  of  the  arts  and  sciences  ; 
and  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  general  assembly,  as  soon  as 
may  be,  to  provide  effectual  means  for  the  improvement  of  the 
funds  and  endowments  of  such  institution. 

Internal  Improvements.  In  the  act  of  congress  admitting 
this  state  into  the  union,  five  per  cent  of  the  net  proceeds  of  the 


GENERAL  VIEW  OR  MISSOURI. 


207 


sale  of  public  lands  was  appropriated  to  making  roads  and  ca¬ 
nals  for  the  benefit  of  this  state. 

By  the  constitution  of  Missouri,  it  is  made  the  duty  of  the  gen¬ 
eral  assembly,  as  soon  as  may  be,  to  make  provision  by  law  for 
as<  ertaining  the  most  proper  objects  of  improvement  in  relation 
both  to  roads  and  navigable  waters  ;  and  also  to  provide  by 
law  for  a  systematic  and  economical  application  of  the  funds  ap¬ 
propriated  to  these  objects. 

As  the  condition  of  the  above  grants  for  the  encouragement 
of  education  and  for  internal  improvements,,  the  constitution  of 
this  state  provides,  that  the  general  assembly  shall  never  inter¬ 
fere  with  the  primary  disposal  of  the  soil  by  the  United  States, 
nor  with  any  regulation  congress  may  find  necessary  for  secur¬ 
ing  the  title  in  such  soil  to  the  bona  fide  purchasers.  That  no 
tax  shall  be  imposed  on  lands,  the  property  of  the  United  States  ; 
that  lands  belonging  to  persons  residing  out  of  the  limits  of  this 
state,  shall  never  be  taxed  higher  than  the  lands  belonging  to 
persons  residing  within  the  state  ;  and  that  the  Mississippi  riv¬ 
er,  and  the  navigable  waters  leading  into  the  same,  whether 
bordering  on,  or  within  this  state,  shall  be  common  highways, 
and  forever  free  to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  without  any 
tax,  duty,  impost  or  toll  therefor,  imposed  by  the  state. 

History.  For  many  years  after  the  discovery  of  the  Missis¬ 
sippi,  the  French  settlements  were  confined  exclusively  to  the 
east  side  of  that  river.  But  the  vain  hope  of  discovering  the. 
precious  metals,  which  was  raised  by  the  report  of  a  few  strag¬ 
gling  adventurers,  induced  them  to  turn  their  attention  to  the 
west.  Accordingly,  in  the  early  part  of  the  18th  century,  the 
governor  of  Louisiana  prepared  an  expedition  to  visit  the  mines 
of  the*  upper  Mississippi.  A  fort  was  erected,  and  a  settle¬ 
ment  commenced  ;  but  the  prejudices  of  the  savages  were  soon 
excited,  and  the  French  found  it  prudent  to  abandon  this  part 
of  the  country. 

The  French  next  turned  their  attention  to  the  Missouri  ; 
which  they  ascended  in  1705,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  river, 
where  they  met  with  a  welcome  reception  from  the  Indians. — 
Their  success  in  this  quarter  soon  obliterated  from  their  minds 


208 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI-. 


the  reverses  which  they  had  experienced  on  the  upper  Missis¬ 
sippi.* 

In  consequence  of  the  wars  in  Europe,  which  demanded  all 
the  attention  and  resources  of  France,  the  colony  of  Louisiana 
was  reduced  to  the  most  embarrassing  situation.  “The  king, 
though  obliged  to  wit  hhold  from  it  the  usual  supplies  of  men  and 
money,  v\as  determined  to  keep  it  out  of  the  hands  of  his  ene¬ 
mies  ;  and  for  this  purpose,  granted  it  to  Crozat  by  letters  pat¬ 
ent,  in  1712.  The  great  wealth  and  credit  of  this  gentleman* 
and  the  important  services  he  had  rendered  to  the  crown,  were 
sure  pledges  of  his  ability  and  exertions  ;  and  it  was  confidently 
expected,  that  he  would  prevent  the  extinction  of  the  colony.— 
Another  motive  still  stronger  led  to  the  concession.  The  pro¬ 
vincial  authorities  were  hostile  to  each  other,  and  it  required 
some  steady  and  energetic  hand  to  heal  the  disorders  among 
them.  M.  de  la  Motte,  who  was  the  first  governor  under  the 
giant,  arrived  in  1713,  and  took  possession  of  his  govern¬ 
ment.”  f 

But  Crozat  was  disappointed  in  his  expectations  with  regard 
to  the  mineral  resources  of  Louisiana  ;  and  although  vast  sums 
of  money  had  been  expended,  there  was  no  prospect  of  an  imme¬ 
diate  indemnity.  Those  who  had  left  their  native  country  to  set¬ 
tle  in  the  colony,  finding  that  they  had  been  deceived  by  false 
promises,  became  discontented.  As  agriculture,  which  would 
have  ensured  to  them  wealth  and  prosperity,  was  totally  neglec¬ 
ted,  they  did  not  raise  even  a  sufficiency  for  their  own  consump¬ 
tion.  Large  sums  were  therefore  necessary  to  purchase  provis¬ 
ions,  which,  together  with  the  other  expenses  of  the  colony,  by 
far  exceeded  the  profits  of  its  trade.  A  trial  of  five  years  with 
like  results,  induced  Crozat  in  1717,  to  relinquish  his  patent  to 
the  king. 

A  short  time  after  this  relinquishment,  the  colony  of  Louisiana 
was  granted  by  a  patent,  containing  similar  privileges  and  re¬ 
strictions,  to  the  Mississippi  company,  or  company  of  the  west, 
projected  by  the  celebrated  John  Law.  From  the  ability  and 
enterprize  of  this  company,  the  greatest  expectations  were  form- 

t  ib. 


*  Stoddard’s  Sketches  ofLouisiana. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OP  MISSOURI* 


209 


ed,  and  the  colony  of  Louisiana  began  to  excite  the  attention 
of  all  the  capitalists  of  the.  French  metropolis.  The  fertility  of 
its  soil,  and  its  vast  mineral  resources,  presented  prospects  of 
uncommon  gain,  promised  to  fill  the  exhausted  coffers  of  France* 
and  yield  princely  fortunes  to  the  numerous  adventurers. 

Soon  after  the  company  of  the  west  had  obtained  their  patent 
from  the  king,  they  formed  an  establishment  at  Fort  Chartres? 
and  in  order  to  promote  the  objects  of  their  institution,  and  to 
encourage  the  settlement  of  the  country,  held  out  the  most  liberal 
inducements  to  French  emigrants,  and  made  them  donations  of  all 
lands  which  they  should  cultivate  or  improve.  Miners  and  me¬ 
chanics  were  also  encouraged  to  emigrate,  and  the  city  of  New- 
Oi  leans,  which  had  been  founded  during  the  last  year  of  the  au¬ 
thority  of  Crozat,  (1717)  received  a  considerable  accession  to  its 
population  in  the  fall  of  the  same  year,  and  the  settlements  be¬ 
gan  to  extend  along  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  and  in  the 
country  of  the  Illinois 

“in  the  year  1719,  the  Sieur  de  Lochon  having  been  sent  out 
by  the  company  in  the  quality  of  a  founder,  commenced  dig  ¬ 
ging  on  the  Merrimack.  He  drew  up  a  large  quantity 
of  ore,  a  pound  whereof,  which  took  up  four  days  in  melting, 
produced,  accordingto  his  account,  two  drachms  of  silver  ;  but 
his  statement  was  generally  disbelieved  by  the  settlers.  A  few 
months  afterwards  he  returned  thither,  and  without  thinking  any 
thing  more  of  the  silver,  he  extracted  from  two  or  three  thous¬ 
and  weight  of  ore,  fourteen  pounds  of  very  had  lead,  which  stood 
him  in  fourteen  hundred  franks.  Disgusted  with  a  labour  which 
was  so  unprofitable,  be  returned  to  France. 

“The  company,  persuaded  of  the  truth  of  the  indications 
which  had  been  given  them,  and  that  the  incapacity  of  the  foun¬ 
der  had  been  the  sole  cause  of  their  had  success,  sent  in  his  room 
a  Spaniard,  called  Antonio,  who  had  been  taken  at  the  siege  o^ 
Pensacola,  had  afterwards  been  a  galley-slave,  and  boasted 
much  of  his  having  wrought  in  a  mine  at  Mexico.  They  gave 
him  very  considerable  appointments,  but  he  succeeded  no  better 
than  had  done  the  Sieur  de  Lochon.  He  was  not  discouraged 
himself,  and  others  were  inclined  to  believe  he  had  failed*  from 


*  ^rhonlrraft’s  View  of  the  lead  Mines  ofMissourt 


o  — 


210 


GENERAL  VIEW  OP  MISSOURI. 


Ins  not  being  versed  in  the  construction  of  furnaces.  He  gave 
over  the  search  after  lead,  and  undertook  to  make  si!\ei  He 
dug  down  to  the  rock,  which  was  found  to  be  eight  or  ten  feet  in 
thickness;  several  pieces  of  it  were  blown  up  and  put  into  a  cru¬ 
cible,  from  whence  it  is  reported  that  he  extracted  three  or  four 
d;*ams  of  si]\  e  •. 

“  About  this  time  arrived  a  company  of  the  king’s  miners,  un¬ 
der  the  diic<  tic  n  of  one  La  Renauditre,  who,  resolving  to  begin 
with  the  lead  mine,  was  able  to  do  nothing,  because  neither  he 
hitnself,  nor  any  of  his  company,  were  in  the  least  acquainted  with 
the  construct  ion  of  furnaces  Nothing  could  be  more  surprising 
than  the  facility  with  which  the  company  at  that  time  exposed 
themselves  to  great  expcnces,  and  the  little  precaution  they  took 
to  be  satisfied  of  the  capacity  of  those  they  employed.  La  Re¬ 
na  i  ere  and  his  miners,  not  being  able  to  produce  any  lead,  a 
pri  vate  company  undertook  the  mines  of  the  Merrimack,  and  the 
Sieur  Renault,  one  of  the  directors,  superintended  them  with 
care.”^ 

“  Renault  w  as  the  son  of  a  celebrated  iron-founder  in  France, 
and  came  over  to  this  colony  as  the  agent  of  this  company,  which 
had  been  formed  under  the  patronage  of  the  company  of  the  west, 
for  prosecuting  the  mining  business  in  the  upper  country  of  Lou¬ 
isiana  and  Illinois.  He  left  France  in  1719,  with  two  hundred 
artificers  and  miners,  provided  with  tools,  and  whatever  else  was 
necessary  for  carrying  the  objects  of  the  company  into  effect.— 
In  his  passage,  lie  touched  at  the  island  of  St.  Domingo,  and 
purchased  live  hundred  slaves  for  working  the  mines  ;  and  en¬ 
tering  the  Mississippi,  pursued  his  voyage  up  that  river  to  New- 
Orleans,  which  he  reached  some  time  in  the  year  1720,  arid  soon 
afterwards  proceeded  on  his  way  toKaskaskia,  in  Illinois.  Re¬ 
nault,  established  himself  in  the  vicinity  of  this  town,  near  Fort, 
Chartres,  at  a  spot  which  he  named  St.  Philip  (now  called  the  Lil¬ 
lie  Village ,)  and  from  this  place,  sent  out  his  mining  and  explor¬ 
ing  parties  into  various  sections  of  Illinois  and  Louisiana.  These 
parties  were  either  headed  by  himself,  or  M.  La  Motte,  an  agent 
versed  in  the  knowledge  of  minerals,  whom  he  had  brought  over 
with  him.  In  one  of  the  earliest  of  these  excursions,  La  Motte 


v  Charlevoix’s  Journal  ofa  Voyage  to  North  America,  in  1721 


tjENETlAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


211 


discovered  the  lead  mines  on  St.  Francis,  which  bears  Ids  name  ; 
and  at  a  subsequent  period,  Renault  made  a  discovery  of  (hose 
extensive  mines  north  of  Potosi,  which  continue  to  be  called  af¬ 
ter  the  discoverer.  Other  mines  of*  lead  were  also  found,  but 
their  distinctive  appellations  have  not  survived  ;  and  a  proof 
of  the  diligence  with  which  Renault  prosecuted  the  object,  is  fur¬ 
nished  by  the  number  and  extent  of  the  old  diggings  which  are 
now  found  in  various  parts  of  the  country.  These  diggings  are 
scattered  over  the  whole  mine  district,  and  lrardly  a  season  pas¬ 
ses,  in  which  some  antique  works,  overgrown  with  brush  and 
trees,  are  not  found. 

“  Renault  being  probably  disappointed  in  the  high  expecta¬ 
tions  he  had  formed  of  finding  gold  and  silver,  turned  his  whole 
force  to  the  smelting  of  lead,  and  there  is  reason  to  conclude, 
that  very  great  quantities  were  made.  It  was  conveyed  from  the 
interior  on  pack-horses,  (the  only  mode  of  transportation  which 
was  practicable  at  that  early  period.)  The  lead  made  by  Re¬ 
nault,  was  sent  to  New-Orleans,  and  from  thence  chiefly  ship¬ 
ped  for  France.”* 

Thecolony  ofLouisianasuffered  much  from  the  war  which  broke 
out  between  France  and  Spain  in  1719.  Although  the  contest 
was  chiefly  confined  to  the  posts  on  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  the  upper 
settlements  severely  felt  its  injurious  effects.  Their  commerce 
was  interrupted,  and  the  immense  expenditures- which  were  ne¬ 
cessary  to  carry  on  the  war,  impoverished  both  the  company 
and  the  colony.  The  war,  however,  was  not  long  carried  on  in 
a  systematic  manner:  but  as  these  two  nations  had  always  been 
competitors  for  the  Indian  trade,  and  as  continual  disputes  arose 
concerning  the  rights  of  territory,  they  kept  up  a  predatory  war¬ 
fare  for  several  years.  In  1720,  the  Spaniards  formed  the  de¬ 
sign  of  destroying  the  nation  of  the  Missouris,  situated  on  the 
Missouri  river,  and  of  forming  a  settlement  in  their  country.  The 
object  of  tliis  was  to  divert  the  current  of  the  Indian  trade,  and 
to  confine  the  settlements  of  the  French  to  the  borders  of  the 
Mississippi. 

*  For  the  above  facts  concerning  the  operations  of  Renault,  I  am  indebted  to  Schoolcraft’s  View 
of  the  Lead  Mines  of  Missouri, and  1  believe  they  have  never  before  been  published.  This  author  oh" 
serves,  “  They  were  elicited  in  the  course  ol  a  legal  investigation,  recently  instituted  between  the 
heirs  at  law  of  Renault  and  sundry  individuals,  who  claimed  lands  in  Missouri  and  Illinois,  granted, 
to  hipi  A-  D- 1723,  in  consideration  of  is.Is  services.” 


212 


GENERAL  VIEW  OE  MISSOURI, 


The  Spaniards  believed,  that  in  order  to  put  their  colony  iti 
safety,  it  was  nec  essary  they  should  entirely  destroy  the  Mis- 
souris,  who  were  the  warm  and  constant  friends  of  the  French. 
But  concluding  that  it  would  he  impossible  to  subdue  them  with 
their  own  forces  alone,  they  resolved  to  enter  into  an  alliance 
with  the  Os  ages,*  a  people  who  were  the  neighbours  of  the  Mis¬ 
souri,  and  at  the  same  time  their  most  mortal  enemies.  With 
these  intentions  they  formed  a  caravan  at  Santa  Fc,  consisting 
of  men*  women,  and  soldiers  ;  having  a  priest  for  chaplain,  ami 
an  engineer  captain  for  their  chief  and  conductor,  with  the 
horses  and  cattle  necessary  for  a  permanent  settlement. 

The  caravan  set  out  in  1720;  hut  being  unacquainted  with 
the  country,  and  not  having  proper  guides,  they  mistook  their 
way.  They  wandered  about  for  some  time  in  the  wilderness, 
and  at  length  arr  ived  at  the  Missouris,  whom  they  supposed  to 
he  Usages.  Under  this  impression,  the  conductor  of  the  ca¬ 
ravan,  with  his  interpreter,  immediately  held  a  council  with  the 
chiefs.  He  explained  to  them  tire  object  of  his  visit,  telling  them 
that  he  had  come  to  form  an  alliance  with  their  tribe,  in  order 
to  destroy  their  common  enemies,  the  Missouris. 

The  great  chief  of  the  Missouris,  concealing  his  thoughts 
upon  this  expedition,  evinced  the  greatest  joy.  He  shewed  the 
Spaniards  every  possible  attention,  and  promised  to  act  in  con¬ 
cert  with  them.  For  this  purpose,  he  invited  them  to  rest  for 
a  few  days,  after  their  tiresome  journey,  till  he  had  assembled 
3iis  warriors,  and  held  a  council  with  the  old  men.  The  Spa¬ 
niards  acceded  to  this  proposal ;  a  council  of  war  was  held,  and 
the  result  w7as«  that  they  should  entertain  their  guests,  and  af¬ 
fect  the  siwerest  friendship  for  them. 

They  agreed  to  set  out  in  three  days.  The  Spanish  captain 
immediately  distributed  several  hundred  muskets  among  them, 
with  an  equal  number  of  pistols,  sabres,  and  hatchets.  But  the 
very  morning  after  this  agreement,  the  Missouris  came  by  break 
of  day,  and  killed  them  all  except  the  priest,  whose  singular 
dress  convinced  them  that  he  was  not  a  warrior.  They  kept 
him  for  some  time  among  them,  hut  he  finally  made  his  escape. 


*This  assertion  rests  upon  the  authority  of  several  respectable  writers.  Major  Stoddard,  how¬ 
ever,  states,  that  the  Spaniards  marched  in  pursuit  of  the  Pawnee,  and  not  the  Osage  villages.  For 
the  truth  of  this  he  refers  to  the  records  of  Santa  Fc.  See  his  Historical  Sketches  of  Louisiana. 


i.ENEHAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


218 


The  boldness  of  the  Spaniards,  in  thus  penetrating  into  a 
country  of  which  they  had  no  previous  knowledge,  made  the 
French  sensible  of  their  danger,  and  warned  them  to  prov  ide 
against  further  encroachments.  They  suspected  the  intentions 
of  the  Spaniards,  and  determined  to  prevent,  if  possible,  their 
being  put  into  execution.  Accordingly,  they  despatched  j*  con¬ 
siderable  force,  which  ascended  the  Missouri  river,  and  to»*k 
possession  of  an  island  some  distance  above  the  month  of  the 
Osage,  upon  which  was  built  Fort  Orleans. 

On  the  arrival  of  this  force,  the  different  tribes  in  this  vicinity 
were  engaged  in  a  sanguinary  warfare,  which  diminished  the 
trade,  and  rendered  all  intercourse  extremely  hazardous.  Hence 
it  became  an  object  of  importance  to  bring  about  a  general 
peace.  This  was  attempted  with  the  desired  success  in  1724. 
Soon  after  this  event,  however.  Fort  Orleans  was  attacked  and 
totally  destroyed,  when  all  the  French  were  massacred  ;  hut  it 
was  never  known  by  whom  this  bloody  work  was  performed.* 
About  this  period  the  French  began  to  experience  troubles  of  a 
serious  nature  from  the  Indians,  which  were  not  entirely  sur¬ 
mounted  until  after  a  lapse  of  sixteen  years.  These,  however, 
were  chiefly  confined  to  the  southern  part  of  the  colony. 

In  consequence  of  a  succession  of  such  disastrous  events,  Lou¬ 
isiana  was  reduced  to  the  most  distressing  situation.  It  not  only 
suffered  from  the  effects  of  war,  hut  from  famine  and  disease, 
w  hich  continually  swept  off  numbers  of  its  unfortunate  inhabit¬ 
ants.  The  company  also  having  been  grossly  disappointed  in 
their  expectations,  and  having  already  expended  vast  sums  of 
money,  were  unable  to  render  them  any  further  assistance. — 
Those  who  were  concerned  in  it,  and  had  thus  foolishly  lost  their 
fortunes,  made  the  most  hitter  complaints  against  the  projector, 
of  a  scheme,  which  they  w  ere  now  w  illing  to  give  up  as  wild  and 
visionary.  This  circumstance,  together  with  the  powerful  ene¬ 
mies  which  Mr.  Law  had  at  court,  not  only  completed  his  ruin, 
but  entirely  destroyed  the  credit  of  the  company  ;  so  that  in 
1731,  the  charter  was  resigned  to  the  crown. 

Between  this  time  and  1762,  when  the  whole  territory  west  of 
the  Mississippi  w  as  ceded  to  Spain,  few  events  transpired  worthy 
of  notice.  Renault,  however,  of  whom  we  have  before  spoken, 


*  Stoddard. 


214 


GENER  A.L rVIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


remained  in  the  colony,  and  continued  working  flic  lead  mines 
until  1642,  when  he  returned  to  France. 

ft  is  proper  to  remark,  that  although  the  country  included 
within  the  present  limits  of  Missouri*  excited  the  attention  of  the 
French  in  consequence  of  its  mineral  resources,  their  settlements 
were  generally  confined  to  the  east  hank  of  the  Mississippi — 
AVhen,  however,  by  the  treaty  of  1763,  the  Mississippi  became 
the  boundary  between  the  possessions  of  England  and  France, 
many  of  the  French  inhabitants,  preferring  their  old  to  their 
new  masters,  crossed  the  river  and  commenced  new  settlements. 
For  it  should  be  rec  ollected,  that  although  the  territory  west  of 
the  Mississippi  was  ceded  to  Spain  in  1762,  the  fact  w  as  not 
known  to  the  colonists  until  two  years  afterwards. 

The  first  permanent  settlements  in  the  state  of  Missouri,  were 
made  by  the  French  of  St.  Philip  and  Kaskaskia,  in  the  autumn 
of  1763,  at  St.  Genevieve  and  New-Bourbon.  During  the  suc¬ 
ceeding  year,  St.  Louis  was  founded  by  a  company  of  merchants, 
to  whom  M.  D’Abbadie,  the  director  general,  had  granted  the 
exclusive  right  of  commerce  with  the  Indian  nations  residing  on 
the  Missouri.  And  for  the  encouragement  of  this  settlement,  the 
French  officers  were  ordered  to  remove  thither,  upon  surrender¬ 
ing  Fort  Chartres  to  the  English.  In  consequence  of  the  ad¬ 
vantageous  situation  of  this  place,  and  the  lucrative  trade  w  hich 
w  as  carried  on,  it  increased  in  population,  and  became  the  parent 
of  a  number  of  small  villages  in  the  vicinity. 

Four  years  elapsed  after  the  treaty  of  1762,  before  any  at¬ 
tempts  were  made  on  the  part  of  Spain  to  take  possession  of  her 
newly  acquired  territory.  The  inhabitants  were  so  indignant 
that  a  transfer  should  have  been  made  without  their  knowledge 
or  consent,  that  they  determined  to  resort  to  arms,  in  order  to 
oppose  the  exercise  of  Spanish  authority.  They  considered  it 
as  an  insult  to  their  feelings,  and  as  an  outrage  against  morality, 
which  they  were  resolved  not  to  submit  to  without  a  manly  op¬ 
position.  Nor  were  these  determinations,  although  made  irt  a 
moment  of  irritation,  without  their  effect.  The  Spanish  gover¬ 
nor,  w  ho  arrived  in  1766,  with  a  body  of  troops,  to  take  posses¬ 
sion  of  the  colony,  in  consequence  of  the  excitement  which  it 
occasioned,  was  obliged  to  abandon  his  design,  and  return  to  the 
Havana. 


GENERAL  VIE'W  OF  MISSOURI. 


215 


The  government  of  this  colony  continued  to  he  administered 
in  l he  name  of  the  French  king,  until  the  arrival  of  O’Reilly., 
the  Spanish  governor,  in  1769,  when  it  was  peaceably  transfer¬ 
red,  the  colonists  having  become  reconciled  to  the  change,  irom 
a  conviction  that  it  was  inevitable.  But  O’Reilly,  stimulated  by 
malignity  and  revenge,  determined  to  punish  them  for  their  past 
misconduct,  so  as  to  leave  an  impression  of  terror  upon  the 
minds  of  the  inhabitants,  and  to  secure  their  future  obedience. 
Twelve  of  the  principal  men  among  them  were  selected  as  the 
victims  of  his  resentment,  and  were  consigned  to  a  cruel  and 
ignominious  deaih.  Several  others,  whom  he  supposed  to  be 
less  guilty,  were  doomed  to  drag  out  their  existence  in  the  dun¬ 
geons  of  Cuba.  Although  these  outrages  made  a  deep  impres¬ 
sion  upon  the  minds  of  the  people,  the  subsequent  conduct  of 
O’Reilly  was  very  favourable  to  the  interests  of  the  colony  ;  for 
he  adopted  a  system  of  colonial  government  which  ensured  its 
prosperity,  and  which  was  preserved  with  little  alteration  by  his 
successors. 

The  country  included  within  the  present  limits  of  Missouri, 
was  not  taken  possession  of  by  the  Spaniards  until  1770  ;  and 
for  the  next  ten  years,  few  events  transpired  worthy  of  notice. 
In  1780,  an  expedition  was  fitted  out  by  the  British  commander 
at  Michiilimacinac,  in  order  to  conquer  the  towns  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  in  consequence  of  the  part  which  the 
king  of  Spain  had  taken  in  favour  of  the  independence  of  the 
United  States.  The  expedition  consisted  of  upwards  of  fifteen 
hundred  Indians  and  British,  and  was  first  directed  against  St. 
Louis  ;  after  the  reduction  of  which,  the  conquest  of  the  other 
towns  and  villages  would  have  been  attended  with  little  difficulty. 
During  the  short  time  this  siege  lasted,  upwards  of  sixty  of  the 
inhabitants  were  murdered,  and  thirty  taken  prisoners.  For¬ 
tunately,  however.  General  Clarke,  with  a  considerable  force, 
was  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river;  and  when  he  saw  the 
danger  to  which  the  inhabitants  were  exposed  from  these  cruel 
and  merciless  invaders,  he  crossed  to  the  town,  and  took  them  by 
surprise.  The  British  suddenly  retired,  and  the  Indians  ac¬ 
knowledging  that  they  had  no  hostile  intentions  against  the 


216 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


Spaniards,  but  that  they  had  been  deceived  by  the  British,  soon 
afterwards  dispersed  and  returned  to  their  homes.* 

During  the  same  year,  the  first  village  was  founded  on  the 
Missouri,  named  Village  du  Cote,  and  now  St.  Charles.  In  1787, 
New-Madrid,  on  the  Mississippi,  which  had  for  along  time  been 
a  settlement  of  hunters  and  traders,  was  laid  out  under  the  di¬ 
rection  of  General  Morgan,  of  New- Jersey.  Other  settlements 
were  gradually  commenced  in  different  places  on  these  two 
rivers. 

Missouri  now  began  to  assume  a  more  favourable  appearance, 
and  numbers  of  emigrants  were  continually  flocking  in  from  the 
United  States.  This  emigration  was  greatly  encouraged,  in 
consequence  of  the  ordinance  which  had  been  passed,  prohibit¬ 
ing  slavery  in  what  was  then  called  the  Northwestern  territory. 
Large  grants  of  land  were  also  made  by  the  Spanish  govern¬ 
ment,  to  all  those  who  should  make  actual  settlements  ;  and 
these  lands  were  entirely  exempted  from  taxation.  The  inhabit¬ 
ants  now  began  to  forget  their  idle  notions  of  digging  for  gold 
and  silver  ;  and  as  hunting  had  become  an  unprofitable  employ¬ 
ment,  they  gradually  turned  their  attention  to  the  cultivation  of 
the  soil. 

« 

By  the  treaty  of  St.  Ildefonso,  made  in  1800,  Spain  retroceded 
Louisiana  to  France,  by  whom,  in  1803,  it  was  ceded  to  the 
United  States.  When  the  territory  of  Orleans  was  erected  into 
a  state,  the  remaining  part  of  this  colony  was  attached  to  In¬ 
diana,  until  the  year  1812,  when  it  was  formed  into  a  distinct 
territory. 

From  the  exposed  situation  of  this  territory,  and  the  thinness 
of  its  population,  it  suffered  severely  from  the  effects  of  Indian 
and  British  hostility,  a  short  time  previous  to,  ami  during  the 
late  war.  Tecnmseh,  that  courageous  and  accomplished  Indian 
warrior,  had  already  visited  Malden,  and  had  received  presents 
and  promises  from  the  British  agent.  On  his  return,  he  endea¬ 
voured  to  engage  all  the  Indian  nations  in  a  common  cause 
against  the  Americans.  But  although  Tccumseh  gave  the  sig¬ 
nal,  by  commencing  warlike  operations  on  the  Wabash,  the  In¬ 
dians  on  the  Missouri  continued  for  some  time  to  give  proofs  of 


*  For  a  more  particular  account  of  this  distressing  affair,  sec  St.  r.oni? 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


217 


the  most  pacific  intentions  towards  the  United  States.  But  large 
presents  were  continually  made,  and  every  argument  was  used  to 
induce  them  to  take  up  the  tomahawk — a  fact  which  is  clearly 
proved  by  the  speech  of  a  Sac  chief*  to  Gen.  Clarke,  the  Indian 
agent  at  St.  Louis,  in  1810. 

“  My  father,”  said  he,  “  I  left  my  home  to  see  my  great¬ 
grandfather,  (the  president  of  the  United  States)  ;  but  as  l  can¬ 
not  proceed  on  to  see  him,  1  give  you  my  hand,  as  to  himself. 
I  have  no  father  to  whom  1  have  paid  any  attention,  but  your¬ 
self.  If  you  hear  any  thing,  1  hope  you  will  let  me  know;  and 
I  will  do  the  same.  1  have  been  advised  several  times  to  raise 
the  tomahawk.  Since  the  last  war,  we  have  looked  upon  the 
Americans  as  friends,  and  shall  hold  you  fast  by  the  hand.  The 
Great  Spirit  has  not  put  us  on  this  earth  to  war  with  the  whites  ; 
we  have  never  struck  a  white  man  :  if  we  go  to  war,  it  is  with 
red  flesh.  Other  nations  sent  belts  among  us,  and  urged  us  to 
go  to  war ;  they  say,  if  we  do  not,  in  less  than  eight  years  the 
Americans  will  encroach  on  us,  and  drive  us  off  our  lauds. 

“  Since  General  Wayne’s  campaign,  the  nations  have  often 
asked  us  to  join  in  war  with  the  white  flesh  ;  we  have  not  listen¬ 
ed  to  them  :  our  rivers,  our  country  have  always  been,  and  still 
are  open  to  our  friends  the  Americans.  I  have  spoken  to  yon 
as  1  should  speak  to  the  president  of  the  United  States  ;  and  as 
it  is  your  desire  that  i  shall  not  proceed  to  see  him,  1  will  cheer¬ 
fully  return  to  my  nation  again,  and  hope  you  will  send  my 
word  to  him.” 

With  few  exceptions,  the  Indians  on  the  Missouri  remained 
peaceable  until  the  summer  of  1811,  when  they  committed  some 
outrages  in  Boon’s  settlement,  and  on  Salt  river.  Gen.  Clarke, 
who  commanded  this  department,  made  every  exertion  to  detect 
the  murderers  ;  but  as  tbe  American  force  was  not  yet  organ¬ 
ized,  it  proved  unavailing.  During  tbe  winter  of  1811-12, 
murders  became  more  frequent,  and  this  territory  began  to  suffer 
all  the  dreadful  effects  of  Indian  warfare.  Tbe  Wihnebasoes. 
determined  to  have  revenge  for  their  loss  at  Tippecanoe,  con¬ 
tinually  displayed  hostile  intentions.  From  Fort  Madison  to 
St.  Charles,  men,  women,  and  children  were  continually  put 

28 


*  Quashq^amst* 


218 


GENERAL  VIEW  OP  MISSOURI, 


to  death,  and  tboir  habitations  consigned  to  the  flames,  by  these 
unrelenting  toes. 

Upon  the  receipt  of  this  melancholy  intelligence,  Governor 
How  aril  sent  orders  to  Col.  Kibby,  who  commanded  the  militia 
of  St.  Charles,  to  call  out  a  portion  of  the  men,  w  ho  had  been  in 
requisition  to  march  at  a  moment’s  warning.  An  express  was 
also  sent  to  the  officer  commanding  the  regular  forces  of  this  dis¬ 
trict,  and  the  go'  ernor  himself  immediately  set  out  for.  St.Charles. 
On  his  arrival  at  this  place,  he  organized  a  company  of  rangers, 
consisting  of  the  most  hardy  woodsmen,  who  covered,  by  con¬ 
stant  and  rapid  movements,  the  tract  of  country  from  Sait  river 
to  t  he  Missouri,  near  the  join  tion  of  the  Loutre.  He  also  esta¬ 
blished  a  small  fort  on  the  Mississippi,  which  was  garrisoned  by 
a  body  of  regular  troops  detached  from  Belle  Fontaine,  under 
the  command  of  Lieut.  Mason.  With  these  he  was  enabled,  in 
a  considerable  degree,  to  afford  protection  to  the  exposed  fron¬ 
tiers. 

About  the  beginning  of  May,  1812,  the  chiefs  of  the  Great  and 
Little  Usages,  the  Sacs,  Reynards,  Shawanees  and  Delawares, 
met  in  St.  Louis,  in  order  to  accompany  Gen.  Clarke  to  Wash¬ 
ington  city  ;  a  plan  which  it  was  thought  would  have  a  happy 
effect.  After  their  departure,  few  outrages  were  committed  by 
the  Indians  for  a  considerable  time  ;  and  although  large  parties 
of  them  continual!}  lurked  about  Fort  Mason,  and  the  other 
posts  on  the  Mississippi,  such  was  the  vigilance  of  the  regulars 
and  rangers  then  on  duty,  that  they  were  generally  frustrated 
in  their  designs.  But  Tecumseh,  and  his  brother  the  prophet, 
were  becoming  more  and  more  popular  among  the  Indians  ;  and 
so  long  as  this  was  the  case,  no  favourable  termination  of  the 
contest  could  be  expected.  Many,  it  is  true,  were,  as  they  al¬ 
ways  had  been,  opposed  to  his  ambitious  views  ;  but  the  ma¬ 
jority  in  his  favour  was  so  great,  that  these  were  obliged  to  sub¬ 
mit.  * 

On  the  26th  of  June,  (1812,)  a  council  was  held  between  the 
following  nations  of  Indians,  viz.  the  Winebagoes,  Pottawata- 
mics,  Ki<  kapoos,  Shawanese,  Miarnies,  Wild  Oats  (from  Green 
Bay,)  Sioux  (from  the  river  Des  Moines,)  Otto’s,  Sacs,  Foxes 
and  ioways.  The  five  first  named  were  decidedly  in  favour  of 
the  prophet  $  some  others  refused  any  participation  in  the  wav 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


219 


with  the  United  States ;  and  the  remainder  were  unwilling  to 
give  a  derided  answer,  but  rather  encouraged  the  idea  that  they 
would  unite  with  the  hostile  tribes.  Thus  through  the  influence 
of  the  prophet,  many  of  the  tribes  who  had  uniformly  been  at 
peace  with  the  Americ  ans,  now  appeared  in  arms  on  the  fron¬ 
tiers  of  the  territory,  and  were  onlv  waiting  for  the  removal  of 
the  rangers,'  to  commence  a  dreadful  slaughter. 

The  effects  of  this  alliance  were  soon  manifested.  On  the  5th 
of  September,  (1812)  Fort  Bellevue  on  the  Mississippi,  was  at¬ 
tacked  by  about  200  Winnebagoes.  A  constant  firing  was  kept 
up  on  both  sides  until  dark.  Early  the  next  morning  the  In¬ 
dians  renewed  the  attack,  and  shortly  after  burnt  three  boats, 
with  their  cargoes,  consisting  of  provisions  and  stor  es.  They  now 
commenced  throwing  lire  on  a  block  house  that  stood  near  the 
river,  but  failed  in  their  plan  of  consuming  it.  They  conti¬ 
nued  the  siege  for  several  days#  but  were  finally  obliged  to  dis¬ 
perse,  after  having  lost  many  of  their  men.  On  the  paid  of  the 
Americans,  only  one  man  was  slightly  wounded — .the  loss  of 
property,  however,  was  very  considerable.  After  this  affair, 
no  events  of  importance  transpired  during  this  or  the  succeeding 
year.  M  urders,  however,  were  frequently  committed  in  the  vi¬ 
cinity  of  Portage  des  Sioux,  St.  Charles,  and  Fort  Madison. 

Early  in  the  spring  of  1S14,  Gov.  Clarke  was  instructed  by 
the  war  department  to  ascend  the  Mississippi,  and  establish  a 
garrison  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  which,  for  several  years,  bad  been 
the  principal  rendezvous  of  the  Indians,  and  their  allies,  the  Bri¬ 
tish.  Accordingly,  be  left  St.  Louis  about  the  first  of  May,  with 
five  armed  barges,  and  about  200  volunteers,  under  the  command 
of  Capts.  Ycizer  and  Sullivan,  arid  Lieut.  Perkins.  He  reach¬ 
ed  the  place  of  his  destination  without  difficulty,  all  the  Indians 
lie  met  with  being  friendly,  or  at  least  not  disposed  to  engage 
him  Col.  Dickson,  the  British  Indian  agent  at  the  Prairie,  ha¬ 
ving  received  information  of  the  approach  of  Gov.  Clarke,  had 
left  that  place  about  a  month  previous  to  his  arrival,  and  procee¬ 
ded  to  Mackinaw  with  a  number  of  Indian  recruits,  for  the  Brit¬ 
ish  army  on  the  lake.  Capt.  Drace,  who  was  left  in  command 
with  a  small  force,  consisting  chiefly  of  Mackinaw  fencibies* 
made  his  escape  immediately  upon  the  arrival  of  the  governor. 
“  The  inhabitants  of  the  village,  mostly  French  people,  also  fled 


220 


GENERAL  VIEW  OP  MISSOURI. 


from  their  homes,  but  were  induced  to  return.  Lieut.  Perkins, 
with  sixty  regulars,  took  possession  of  the  house  formerly  occu¬ 
pied  by  the  British  Mackinaw  company,  and  immediately  began 
to  build  a  fort,  about  200  yards  from  the  bank  of  the  river,  which 
was  (ailed  fort  Shelby.  As  soon  as  this  post  was  tolerably 
strengthened.  Gov.  Clarke  returned  to  St.  Louis,  leaving  Capts. 
Yeizer  and  Sullivan  with  a  gun  boat  and  an  armed  barge,  and  a 
crew  of  100  men,  to  co-operate with  Lieut.  Perkins  in  main¬ 
taining  it.  Capt.  Sullivan’s  company  in  the  barge,  and  a 
part  of  the  crew  belonging  to  the  gun-boat  were  militia,  who  had 
engaged  only  for  sixty  days.  When  their  time,  expired,  they  re¬ 
turned  home  in  the  barge,  leaving  about  100  men  at  the  Prairie. 
ISo  indications  of  hostility  had  yet  appeared  ;  but  early  in  July, 
Lieut.  Perkins  was  informed  that  preparations  for  an  attack 
were  in  progress  among  the  Indians.’** 

As  soon  as  Gov.  Clarke  returned  to  St.  Louis,  Gen.  Howard, 
who  commanded  this  district,  thought  it  advisable  to  send  up  a 
force  to  relieve  the  volunteers  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  thus  pre¬ 
serve  a  post  so  important  to  the  western  country.  Accordingly 
Lieut.  Campbell,  of  the  1st  reg.  entrusted  with  the  command  of 
42  regulars  and  65  rangers,  embarked  in  three  keel  boats,  toge¬ 
ther  with  a  fourth,  belonging  to  the  contractor  and  sutler. 

The  whole  party,  amounting  to  one  hundred  and  thirty-three 
souls,  reached  Rock  river,  w  ithin  180  or  200  miles  of  the  Prai¬ 
rie,  without  any  accident.  As  soon  as  they  entered  the  rapids, 
they  were  visited  by  hundreds  of  Sacs  and  Foxes,  some  of  the 
latter  bearing  letters  from  the  garrison  above  to  St.  Louis.  The 
officers,  not  being  acquainted  with  the  arts  of  the  Indians,  ima¬ 
gined  them  to  be  friendly  ;  and  to  this  fatal  security  may  be  at¬ 
tributed  the  catastrophe  which  followed.  The  sutler’s  and  con¬ 
tractor's  boats  bad  arrived  near  the  head  of  the  rapids  and  pro¬ 
ceeded  on,  having  on  board  the  ammunition,  with  a  sergeant’s 
guard  ;  the  rangers  in  their  boats  followed,  and  had  proceeded 
two  miles  in  advance  of  the  commander’s  barge.  The  latter  ha¬ 
ving  inclined  to  the  east  side  of  the  river  in  search  of  the  main 
channel,  was  now  drifted  by  the.  wind  to  the  lee-shore  and  groun¬ 
ded  within  a  few  yards  of  a  high  bank,  covered  with  a  thick 
growth  of  grass  and  willows. 


*  BI’Afee's  history  cf  the  latp  war  in  the  western  country 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


22  i 


In  this  position,  the  commanding  officer  thought  it  advisable 
to  remain  until  the  wind  abated  Sentries  were  stationed  at  pro¬ 
per  intervals,  and  several  of  the  men  were  engaged  on  shore, 
when  the  report  of  guns  announced  an  attack.  At  t lie  first 
tire,  all  the  sentries  were  killed,  and  before  those  who  were 
on  shore  could  reach  the  barge,  fifteen  out  of  thirty  were  killed 
or  wounded.  At  this  time,  the  force  and  intentions  of  the  In¬ 
dians  were  fully  developed.  On  each  shore  they  were  observed 
in  quick  motion,  some  in  canoes,  crossing  to  the  battle  ground  ; 
others  running  from  above  and  below  to  the  scene  of  at¬ 
tack.  In  a  few  minutes  from  5  to  700  were  assembled  on  the 
bank  and  among  the  willows,  within  a  few  yards  of  the  bow 
and  stern  of  the  barge.  They  now  gave  the  w  hoop,  and  com¬ 
menced  a  tremendous  fire — the  few  surviving  brave  men  in  the 
barge  cheered  and  returned  the  fire  from  their  swivel  and  small 
arms.  At  this  critical  juncture,  Lieuts.  Rector  and  Riggs  saw 
the  smoke,  and  concluding  that  an  attac  k  had  been  made,  drop¬ 
ped  down.  Riggs’  boat  stranded  about  100  yards  below  Camp¬ 
bell’s,  and  Rector  to  avoid  a  similar  misfortune,  and  preserve 
himself  from  a  raking  fire,  anchored  above  ;  both  barges  open¬ 
ed  a  brisk  fire  on  the  Indians,  but  as  the  latter  were  under  cover, 
little  execution  was  done. 

About  an  hour  was  spent  in  this  unequal  contest,  when  Camp¬ 
bell’s  barge  was  discovered  to  be  on  fire,  to  relieve  which.  Rec¬ 
tor  cut  bis  cables,  and  fell  to  w  indw  ard  of  him,  and  took  out  the 
survivors.  Finding,  however,  that  he  w  as  unable  to  assist  Riggs, 
having  a  number  of  wounded  on  board,  and  being  in  danger  of 
running  on  a  lee-shore,  he  determined  on  descending  the  river. 
The  whole  loss  on  the  part  of  the  Americans,  amounted  to  12 
killed,  and  between  20  and  SO  wounded. 

On  the  17th  of  July, the  long  expected  enemy, consisting  of  about 
1500  British  and  Indians,  under  the  command  of  Col  M’Kay, 
appeared  in  view,  marching  from  the  Ouisconsin  to  the  Prairie. 
Every  possible  exertion  was  made  by  (lie  Americans  to  give  (hem 
a  warm  reception.  Capt.  Yeizer  bad  anchored  the  gun-boat  in  (lie 
river  opposite  to  the  fort.  As  soon  as  Col.  M’Kay  had  arranged 
his  force,  and  directed  a  small  battery  against  the  boat,  be  sent 
in  a  flag  demanding  a  surrender  of  (he  garrison.  Lieut.  Pei  kins 
refused,  and  returned  for  answer  that  be  was  able  and  ready  to 
defend  the  post  committed  to  his  charge. 


222 


GENERAL  VIEW  OP  MISSOURI. 


A  general  attack  was  now  commenced  upon  the  gun-boat  from 
the  battery,  which  was  answered  by  a  six  pounder.  The  dis¬ 
tance,  however,  was  so  great,  that  little  effect  was  produced _ 

The  enemy  now  changed  their  situation,  and  crossed  to  an  island, 
which  is  in  front  of  the  \illage,  from  which  they  were  enabled 
to  fire  upon  Yeizer,  (who  had  also  changed  his  position)  with 
small  arms,  and  screen  themselves  behind  the  trees,  from  the 
grape  which  was  incessantly  poured  from  the  boat.  In  this 
manner  the  contest  lasted  for  two  hours,  when,  from  the  decided 
advantage  of  the  enemy,  Capt.  Y«  izer  was  induced  to  retreat 
dow  n  the  river,  which  he  effected  under  a  heavy  fire  of  musketry 
for  several  miles. 

After  the  departure  of  the  gun-boat,  the  attack  was  continued 
by  the  enemy,  but  with  little  effect,  as  the  Americans  remained 
within  the  fort.  The  British  now  began  to  approach  it  by  reg¬ 
ular  intrenchments,  which  they  continued  day  and  night,  until 
they  reached  within  150  yards  of  the  pickets.  On  the  evening 
of  the  1 9th,  Lieut.  Perkins  being  in  want  of  ammunition  and 
hospital  stores,  and  being  without  a  surgeon  to  dress  the  wound¬ 
ed,  held  a  council  with  his  officers.  It  was  then  determined,  that 
as  it  was  impossible  to  maintain  the  post,  their  most  proper 
course  was  to  surrender.  Accordingly  a  flag  was  dispatched  to 
the  enemy,  with  their  terms.  Capt.  G.  Kennerly  was  the 
bearer,  and  on  his  entering  into  the  British  camp,  he  was 
immediately  surrounded  by  a  number  of  Indians  ;  but  was  re¬ 
lieved  from  his  perilous  situation  by  three  British  officers,  who 
ran  to  his  protection.  The  terms  of  capitulation  were  immedi¬ 
ately  agreed  on,  and  the  fort  was sui* rendered  the  next  day,  upon 
condition  that  the  Americans  should  be  protected  from  the  sav¬ 
ages— that  their  private  property  should  be  respected — and  that 
they  should  be  sent  down  to  some  American  post,  not  to  serve 
until  regularly  exchanged.  Col.  M’lvay  found  it  necessary  to 
place  a  strong  guard  over  the  prisoners,  in  order  to  prevent 
the  savages  from  murdering  them.  He  afterwards  sent  them  on 
their  way  to  St.  Louis,  under  a  strong  escort,  as  far  as  Rock  riv¬ 
er  ;  and  although  the  Indians  laid  several  plans  to  murder  them 
on  their  passage,  such  was  the  vigilance  of  the  guard,  that  not 
one  of  them  suffered.  This  may  be  recorded  as  a  rare  instance 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


223 


of  humane  awl  honourable  conduct  on  the  part  of  the  British  dur¬ 
ing  the  late  war  in  the  west. 

Capt  Yeizer,  who  had  left  Fort  Shelby  during  the  battle? 
on  approaching  the  rapids?  fell  in  with  Lieut.  Campbell,  in 
the  situation  before  mentioned.  He  arrived  in  time  to  save  the 
contractor’s  boat  from  destruction.  Having  ascertained  tho 
fate  of  the  other  boats?  he  now  proceeded  down  the  river,  and 
arrived  at  St.  Louis  soon  after  them.  Thus  terminated  the  ex¬ 
pedition  to  Prairie  du  Chien?  and  with  it,  also,  in  a  great  meas¬ 
ure?  the  war  in  Missouri. 

In  1818,  the  people  of  this  territory  petitioned  congress  for 
authority  to  form  a  state  government.  A  bill  was  accordingly 
introduced  during  the  session  of  1818-19,  and  contained  among 
other  provisions  that  of  prohibiting  slavery  or  involuntary  ser¬ 
vitude.  It  passed  the  house  of  representatives?  hut  was  rejected 
by  the  senate,  and  of  course  failed  of  success,  die  ensuing  ses¬ 
sion  the  hill  was  again  brought  up,  and  after  a  succession  of  an¬ 
imated  and  interesting  debates,  continued  through  several  weeks? 
a  compromise  or  agreement  was  entered  into  by  the  advocates 
and  opposers  of  the  “  restriction,”  The  result  of  this  was,  that 
slavery  should  he  tolerated  in  Missouri,  but  in  no  other  part  of 
Louisiana  as  ceded  by  France  to  the  United  States,  north  of  36® 
30'  of  north  latitude.  Accordingly  the  people  of  this  territory 
were  authorised  to  form  a  constitution,  under  which?  when  ap¬ 
proved  by  congress,  Missouri  should  be  admitted  into  the  union 
on  an  equal  looting  with  the  original  states. 

The  convention  being  duly  elected,  met  at  St.  Louis  on  the 
12th  of  June,  1820,  and  formed  a  constitution,  which  was  laid 
before  congress  early  in  the  session  of  1820-21.  The  constitu¬ 
tion  contained  a  provision,  by  which  it  was  made  the  duty  of  the 
legislature  to  pass  laws,  6i  to  prevent  free  negroes  or  mulattoes 
from  coming  into  and  settling  in  this  state  under  any  pretext 
whatsoever.”  This  was  considered  by  many  of  the  members  as 
a  direct  violation  of  the  constitution  of  the  United  States,  which 
they  had  sworn  to  support.  Missouri,  who  had  thus  far  conten¬ 
ded  for  every  inch  of  ground  in  her  passage  from  a  territorial  to 
a  state  government,  was  now  again' the  subject  of  harangue,  of 
debate,  and  finally  of  compromise.  The  ‘  restrictionism 9  and 
*  anti-restnctionists ’  were  again  in  hostile  array?  and  the  old 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


ova 

X 

contest  was  renewed  and  carried  on  with  a  spirit,  which,  in 
too  many  instances,  bordered  upon  the  most  gross  intemperance. 
After  several  months  of  time,  and  several  thousands  of  dollars 
had  been  consumed,  nay,  squandered,  the  following  resolution 
was  passed  by  a  majority  of  both  houses  of  congress  on  the  2d  of 
March,  1821,  viz  : 

“  Resolved  by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the 
United  St&cs  of  America,  in  Congress  assembled,  That  Missouri 
shall  be  admitted  into  this  union  on  an  equal  footing  with  the 
original  states,  in  all  respects  whatever,  upon  the  fundamental 
condition,  that  the  fourth  clause  of  the  twenty -sixth  section  of 
the  third  article  of  the  constitution  submitted  on  the  part  of  said 
state  to  congress,  shall  never  be  construed  to  authorise  the  pas¬ 
sage  of  any  law,  and  that  no  law  shall  be  passed  in  conformity 
thereto,  by  which  any  citizen  of  either  of  the  states  in  this  un¬ 
ion,  shall  be  excluded  from  the  enjoyment  of  any  of  the  privile-% 
ges  and  immunities  to  which  such  citizen  is  entitled  under  the 
constitution  of  the  United  States.  Provided ,  That  the  legisla¬ 
ture  of  the  said  state,  by  a  solemn  public  act,  shall  declare  the 
assent  of  the  said  state  to  the  said  fundamental  condition,  and 
shall  transmit  to  the  president  of  the  United  States,  on  or  before 
the  fourth  Monday  in  November  next,  an  authentic  copy  of  the 
said  act  ;  upon  the  receipt  whereof,  the  president,  by  proclama¬ 
tion,  shall  announce  the  fact ;  whereupon,  and  without  any  fur¬ 
ther  proceeding  on  the  part  of  congress,  the  admission  of  the 
said  state  into  the  union,  shall  be  considered  as  complete  ” 

On  the  21st  of  June,  1821,  the  legislature  of  Missouri  passed 
a  solemn  public  act  of  assent  to  the  fundamental  provision  con¬ 
tained  in  the  above  resolution,  which  was  transmitted  to  the  pre¬ 
sident  of  the  United  States,  who,  on  the  10th  of  August,  issued 
his  proclamation,  and  gave  Missouri  her  place  in  the  union. 

According  to  the  census  taken  in  September,  1821,  it  appears 
that  Missouri  contained  at  that  time  70,647  inhabitants,  11,234 
of  whom  were  slaves.  At  present,  it  is  divided  into  28  counties, 


as  follows : 

Names  of  counties. 

No.  of  inhabitants. 

County  seats. 

Boone, 

3692 

Columbia. 

Callaway, 

1797 

Elizabeth. 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI 


225* 


Names  of  counties.  No.  of  inhabitants.  .•  • 

County  seats. 

Cape  Girardeau, 

7852 

Jackson. 

Chariton, 

1426 

Chariton. 

*Clay, 

• 

Cole, 

1028  1 

•Jt  4  . 

Howard’s  Bluff 

Cooper, 

3483 

Boonville. 

Franklin, 

1928 

Newport. 

Gasconade, 

1174 

Gasconade. 

Howard, 

7321 

Franklin. 

Jefferson* 

1838 

Herculaneum. 

Lillard, 

1340 

Mount  Vernon* 

Lincoln, 

1674 

Alexandria. 

Madison, 

1907 

•s,.  'r.  j 

Frederick  town. 

Montgomery, 

New-Madrid, 

2032  . 

-S7.  •:  .  ■' 

v .  a  •  \  ..•  < •  t  >  r  ■ 

2444 

*  .  T  •■■■  r> 

Pinkney. 

Winchester. 

Perry, 

1599  ‘  *. 

Perry -ville 

Pike, 

2677 

Louisiana-ville. 

Kalis, 

1684 

New- London. 

Kay, 

1789 

Bluffton. 

Saline, 

^Scott, 

H76 

Jeffersoiio 

St.  Charles, 

4058 

St.  Charles. 

^St.  Francois, 

✓ 

St.  Genevieve, 

S181 

St.  Genevieve* 

St.  Louis, 

8190 

St.  Louis. 

Washington, 

3741 

Potosi. 

Wayne, 

1614,.,. 

Greenville. 

The  counties  marked  thus 

*,  ha v6  Feeh  ejected  since  the  emu 

meration. 

-  .  *1  *  . 

•>  > 

■  ^  t  « v 

f 

2.9 


f 


A 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  COUNTIES 


IN  THE  . 


ARRANGED  IN  ALPHABETICAL  ORDER. 


Boone  County. 

Boone  county  was  erected  from  Howard  in  1820,  and  named 
in  honour  of  Colonel  Daniel  Boone.  It  is  bounded  north  by 
the  county  of  Ralls,  east  by  Callaway,  south  by  Cooper  and 
Cole,  and  west  by  Howard.  It  is  36  miles  in  length,  and  21 
in  breadth  :  area  576  square  miles.  It  is  watered  by  Cedar, 
Little  Bonne-femme,  and  Roche  Percee  creeks.  The  surface  is 
generally  uneven,  and  towards  the  northern  boundary  somewhat 
hilly.  The  soil  is  for  the  most  part  fertile. 

That  part  of  Howard  county  which  lies  due  nortli  of  Boone, 
and  not  attached  to,  or  comprising  a  part  of  any  other  county, 
is  attached  to  the  latter  for  all  legislative,  judicial,  and  mi¬ 
litary  purposes,  until  the  same  may  be  formed  into  a  separate 
county. 

This  county  has  increased  in  population  with  uncommon  ra¬ 
pidity,  and  it  offers  inducements  equal,  if  not  superior  to  any 
in  the  state.  The  attention  of  the  inhabitants  has  lately  been 
turned  to  the  cultivation  of  tobacco  and  cotton  ;  the  former  of 
which  is  found  to  be  a  sure  and  profitable  crop  :  the  success  of 
the  latter  is  as  yet  uncertain.  The  most  considerable  articles  of 
export  have  been  bacon,  corn,  hogs,  and  poultry;  these  will 
soon  be  followed  by  large  quantities  of  flour  and  tobacco.  As 
the  Missouri  river  washes  the  southern  part  of  the  county,  every 
facility  for  export  is  offered,  and  present  appearances  confirm 
the  opinion  that  it  will  be  amply  improved. 

Boone  county  contains  3692  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to 
the  first  judicial  circuit  ;  sends  three  members  to  the  house  of 
assembly,  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  Columbia > 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


Callaway  County. 

Callaway  county  was  erected  in  1820,  and  named  in  honour  of 
Capt.  Callaway,  who  distinguished  himself  during  the  late  war. 
It  is  bounded  north  by  the  county  of*  Ralls,  east  by  Mont¬ 
gomery,  south  by  Gasconade  and  Cole,  and  west  by  Boone.  A 
portion  of  country  lying  north  of,  and  which  was  formerly  at¬ 
tached  to  Montgomery,  is  for  the  present  attached  to,  and  forms 
a  part  of  Callaway,  although  not  included  in  its  boundaries. 

Callaway  county  is  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram,  44 
miles  in  length,  and  28  in  breadth  :  its  area  is  about  1 116  square 
miles.  It  is  watered  by  Cedar  creek,  the  Muddy’s,  and  the 
sources  of  Loutre  river,  besides  many  other  small  streams  emp- 
tying  into  the  Missouri,  which  forms  its  southern  boundary. 
The  soil  is  generally  of  a  good  quality.  The  surface  near  the 
Missouri  is  level,  but  towards  the  northern  part  of  the  county  it 
is  broken  and  hilly,  forming  a  part  of  the  ridge  which  divides 
thb  waters  of  the  Missouri  from  those  of  the  Mississippi. 

This  county  contains  1797  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the 
second  judicial  circuit  ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  as¬ 
sembly,  and  with  Gasconade  and  Franklin,  one  to  the  senate. 
Its  scat  of  justice  is  Elizabeth . 

Cape  Girardeau. 

Cape  Girardeau  county  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  state.  -  It 
is  bounded  north  by  Ferry  county,  east  by  the  strte  of  Illi¬ 
nois  and  Scott  county,  south  by  Scott  and  New-Madrid,  and 
west  by  Madison  and  Wayne.  Its  length  is  about  50  miles ; 
breadth  38  :  area  about  1300  square  miles.  The  Mississippi 
washes  the  eastern  boundary,  Apple  creek  a  part  of  the  north¬ 
ern,  and  Castor  creek  a  part  of  the  western  :  the  interior  is 
watered  by  Crooked  and  White-water  creeks. 

The  first  house  built  in  this  county,  was  at  the  town  of  Cape 
Girardeau,  in  1794,  by  a  Frenchman.  Since  that  period,  set¬ 
tlements  have  been  rapidly  for  med  by  emigrants  from  the  United 
States  ;  and  it  is  generally  believed  that  the  lands  are  inferior 
to  none  in  the  state.  Certain  it  is,  that  they  are  owmed  by  rich 
and  industrious  farmers,  who,  among  other  articles,  raise  wheat, 
corn,  tobacco,  liax,  hemp  and  cotton,  and  manufacture  large 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


229 


quantities  of  maple  sugar.  They  annually  export  considerable 
quantities  of  beef,  pork,  lard,  smoked  hams,  and  some  peltry. 
Within  a  few  years,  also,  tobacco  has  become  a  valuable  article 
of  export.  The  lands  in  the  northern  and  middle  part  of  the 
county  are  elevated,  and  well  supplied  with  springs  ;  in  general 
free  from  stagnated  waters  and  marshes.  In  the  southern  part, 
however,  a  large  swamp  extends  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  St. 
Francis  river,  and  is  filled  with  cypress  trees  of  no  great  value.* 

Few  of  the  settlers  in  this  county  have  planted  themselves  on 
the  Mississippi ;  but  have  generally  preferred  the  country  ten 
or  twelve  miles  west.  Here  the  lands  are  high  and  rolling  ; 
possess  a  luxuriant  soil  ;  are  well  covered  with  timber,  and  in¬ 
tersected  by  a  variety  of  excellent  streams  and  springs. 

The  increase  of  population  in  this  county  is  almost  unparallel¬ 
ed  In  1799,  the  district  of  Cape  Girardeau  contained  521  in¬ 
habitants  ;  in  1803,  1206  ;  in  1804,  about  1500  :  in  1821,  Cape 
Girardeau  county,  which  is  but  a  part  of  the  old  district,  con¬ 
tained  a  population  of  7852.  It  is  attached  to  the  fourth  judicial 
circuit ;  sends  six  members  to  the  house  of  representatives,  and 
one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  Jackson . 

Chariton  County. 

Chariton  countij  is  situated  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state  : 
and  is  bounded  north  by  the  northern  boundary  of  the  state,  east 
by  the  county  of  Ralls,  south  by  the  counties  of  Howard,  Cooper 
and  Saline,  and  west  by  Ray.  With  the  attached  portion,  it  is 
100  miles  in  length,  and  48  in  breadth,  and  contains  an  area  of 
about  4700  square  miles.  A  part  of  its  southern  boundary  is 
washed  by  the  Missouri  river;  the  interior  is  watered  by  the 
two  Charitons,  and  the  tributaries  of  Grand  river. 

The  lands  in  this  county  are  generally  elevated,  possessing  a 
fertile  soil  ;  well  watered,  but  somewhat  deficient  in  timber.  The 
northern  part  is  broken  by  the  range  of  bills  which  divide  the 
waters  of  the  Missouri  from  those  of  tbs  Mississippi.  The  Mis¬ 
souri  bounty  tract  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  county. 
It  is  generally  fertile,  but  contains  very  extensive  prairies,  which 
will  materially  atfect  its  settlement.  Coal,  however,  is  very 

Major  Stoddard’s  Sketches  of  Louisiana. 


230 


GAZETTEER  OP  MISSOURI. 


abundant,  and  will  in  a  great  measure  supply  the  deficiency  of 
timber. 

Chariton  county  was  erected  from  Howard  in  1820.  It  con¬ 
tains  1426  inhabitants  ;  is  attached  to  the  first  judicial  circuit; 
sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  representatives,  and  with  Clay, 
Ray  and  Lillard,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  Chari¬ 
ton . 

Clay  County. 

Clay  county  was  erected  from  Ray  in  1822.  It  is  bounded 
north  and  west  by  the  boundary  lines  of  the  state,  east  by 
the  county  of  Ray,  and  south  by  Lillard.  Its  form  is  that  of  a 
parallelogram,  about  100  miles  in  length,  and  21  in  breadth  ; 
containing  an  area  of  about  2000  square  miles.  The  southern 
boundary  is  washed  by  the  Missouri  river ;  the  interior  is  well 
watered  by  Fishing  river,  and  several  other  small  streams,  run¬ 
ning  in  a  southerly  and  westerly  direction.  The  lands  -are  ge¬ 
nerally  elevated,  and  in  the  northern  part  approaching  to  hilly. 
Of  the  fertility  of  this  county,  and  the  inducements  which  it  of¬ 
fers  to  emigrants,  I  need  not  adduce  a  more  convincing  proof 
than  the  fact,  that  but  two  or  three  years  since,  it  was  a  complete 
wilderness,  without  a  single  white  inhabitant ;  while  at  present 
its  population  is  not  less  than  1000.  The  country  north  and 
west  is  owned  and  inhabited  by  hordes  of  Indians. 

Clay  county  is  attached  to  the  first  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one 
member  to  the  house  of  representatives,  and  with  Ray,  Lillard 
and  Chariton,  one  to  the  senate. 

Cole  County. 

Cole  county ,  situated  in  the  interior  of  the  state,  was  erect¬ 
ed  from  Cooper  in  1820.  It  is  bounded  north,  east  and  south 
by  the  counties  of  Boone,  Callaway  and  Gasconade,  and  west 
by  Cooper.  Its  form  is  nearly  that  of  a  triangle,  48  miles  in 
length,  and  S3  average  breadth;  containing  an  area  of  756  square 
miles.  It  is  washed  on  two  sides  by  the  Osage  and  Missouri  ri¬ 
vers  ;  in  the  interior  it  is  abundantly  w  atered  by  streams  falling 
into  them.  The  lands  are  generally  elevated ;  the  soil  in  many 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


231 


places  is  very  inferior,  and  sometimes  totally  unfit  for  cultivation. 
On  the  Osage  are  a  number  of  caverns,  in  which  native  salt-petre 
is  found.  Several  powder  mills  have  been  already  erected.— 
Lead  and  iron  ores  are  also  very  abundant. 

Cole  contains  1028  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the  first 
judicial  cir<  uit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  representa¬ 
tives,  and  with  Saline^  and  Cooper,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of 
j  stice  is  Howard's  Bluff.  The  city  of  Jefferson,  the  permanent 
capital  of  the  state,  is  also  situated  in  this  county. 

Cooper  County. 

Cooper  county  was  separated  from  Howard  in  1818,  since 
which  time  it  has  been  much  diminished  in  size.  At  present  it 
is  bounded  north  by  the  counties  of  Chariton,  Howard  and 
Boone,  east  by  Cole,  south  by  Gasconade,  and  west  by  Saline- 
It  is  84  miles  in  length,  and  SO  in  breadth,  and  contains  an  area 
of  about  2160  square  miles.  The  Missouri  river  washes  the 
northern,  and  the  Osage  the  southern  boundary  ;  the  interior  is 
watered  by  La  Mine  river.  Saline  creek,  and  several  other 
streams  falling  into  the  Missouri,  and  by  several  tributaries  of 
the  Osage. 

Th  is  county  is  so  extensive,  that  it  contains  almost  every  va¬ 
riety  of  soil  and  surface.  On  the  Missouri  the  lands  are  gene¬ 
rally  low,  sometimes  approaching  the  river  in  the  form  of  inun¬ 
dated  alluvion,  and  sometimes  a  dry  extensive  prairie,  occasion¬ 
ally  intersected  by  high  rieges.  The  southern  part  of  the  coun¬ 
ty  is  broken  by  the  hills  which  divide  the  waters  of  the  Osage 
from  those  of  the  Missouri.  Here  it  presents  in  many  places  a 
sterile  soil,  destitute  of  every,  advantage,  except  that  it  contains 
iron  and  lead  ore.  There  are  several  salt  springs  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  county,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  some  of  them,  w  orks 
have  been  already  established,  which  are  a  source  of  profit  to 
the  proprietors.  In  the  spring  and  fall,  the  salt  is  sent  down  the 
Missouri  to  St.  Charles,  St  Louis,  and  the  more  southern  towns* 
where  it  generally  commands  a  good  price  and  a  ready  sale. 

Cooper  county  contains  3483  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to 
the  first  judicial  circuit ;  sends  three  members  to  the  house  of  re¬ 
presentatives,  and  with  Saline  and  Cole,  one  to  the  senate.  Its 
seat  of  justice  is  Boonville. 


232 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


Franklin  County. 

Franklin  county  was  erected  from  St.  Louis  in  1818,  and  is 
bounded  north  by  the  counties  of  Montgomery  and  St.  Charles, 
east  by  St.  Louis,  south  by  Jefferson  and  Washington,  and  west 
by  Gasconade.  It  is  90  miles  in  length,  and  32  in  breadth,  and 
contains  an  area  of  about  1584  square  miles.  The  Missouri 
river  washes  the  northern  part  of  the  county  ;  the  interior  is 
watered  by  the  Merrimack,  St.  John’s,  and  Bceuf  river,  and 
several  branches  of  the  Gasconade.  The  lands  are  generally 
elevated  ;  the  surface  broken,  and  sometimes  hilly.  On  the 
banks  of  the  Missouri,  Merrimack,  and  the  other  streams,  *t,he 
soil  is  in  many  places  fertile  ;  hut  the  upland  is  sandy  and  sterile. 
A  range  of  silicious  hills  run  through  the  southern  and  middle 
sections  of  the  county.  They  abound  with  lead  and  iron  ore,  but 
are  unfit  for  cultivation,  and  hence  cannot  support  an  agricul¬ 
tural  population.  These  hills  are  also  badly  timbered. 

Franklin  county  contains  1928  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to 
the  third  judicial  c  ircuit ;  sends  two  members  to  the  house  of 
representatives,  and  with  Callaway  and  Gasconade,  one  to  the 
senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  Newport. 

Gasconade  County. 

Gasconade  county  was  erected  from  Franklin  in  1820.  Its 
boundaries  are  as  follows  :  Beginning  in  the  middle  of  the  main 
channel  of  the  Missouri  river,  opposite  the  termination  of  the 
sectional  line  which  forms  the  middle  line  in  range  No.  4,  west 
of  the  5th  principal  meridian  ;  thence  south  to  said  line,  and 
along  said  line  south  to  the  corner  in  the  township  line  of  41, 
north  of  the  base  line  ;  thence  west  along  the  line  of  township 
41,  to  the  corner  in  the  range  line  in  range  No.  8,  west  of  the 
5th  principal  meridian  ;  thence  north  along  said  range  line,  to 
the  Missouri  river,  and  due  north  to  the  middle  of  the  main 
channel  thereof ;  thence  down  along  the  middle  of  the  main 
channel  of  the  Missouri  river,  to  the  beginning.  All  that  por¬ 
tion  of  country  south  and  west  of  these  boundaries,  and  formerly 
included  within  the  limits  of  Franklin  county,  is  now  attached 
to  Gasconade.  The  form  of  the  county  is  an  oblong  square,  24 
miles  iu  length,  and  21  in  breadth,  with  an  area  of  about  504 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


238 


square  miles.  The  attached  portion  is  very  extensive,  but  its 
precise  limits  are  not  yet  known. 

Gasconade  county  is  washed  on  the  north  by  the  Missouri  riv- 
«r  ;  the  interior  is  watered  by  the  Gasconade,  and  its  numerous 
tributaries,  together  with  those  of;  the  Merrimack,  Boeof  river, 
and  several  other  smaller  streams.  The  lands,  like  those  of 
Franklin,  are  generally  elevated,  *  rolling ,’  and  hilly.  On  the 
banks  of  some  of  the  streams,  the  soil  is  fertile  ;  hut  by  far  the 
largest  portion  of  the  county  is  rough,  stony,  and  unfit  for  cuiii- 
vation.  it  consists  in  many  places  of  bald  flint  hills  or  knobs , 
entirely  destitute  of  timber,  but  which  are  said  to  abound  with 
lead  and  *iron  ore.  On  the  Gasconade  is  a  quantity  of  pine 
timber,  which,  from  its  scarcity  in  this  section  of  the  coun¬ 
try',  is  peculiarly  valuable.  The  }eilow  pine  is  predomin¬ 
ant,  although  there  is  a  portion  of  white.  There  ar  e  alr  eady 
six  saw  mills  erected,  which  are  kept  continually  employed. — 
The  lumber  is  sent  down  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi.  Anoth¬ 
er,  and  a  very  considerable  source  of  wealth  to  this  county,  is 
tire  number*  of  salt-petre  caves,  which  are  every  wher  e  found  on 
the  Gasconade.  Many  of  these  are  worked.  The  mineral  is 
either  sent  down  the  river,  or  consumed  in  the  manufactory  of 
gunpowder,  for  which  there  arc  several  mills.  Some  of  the 
caves  are  very  large  and  interesting,  consisting  frequently  of  a 
succession  of  rooms  joined  to  each  other  by  arched  halls  of  a 
great  height.  The  walls  are  uniformly  of  limestone,  and 
often  present  the  most  beautiful  appearance.  On  these,  as  well 
as  (he  floors,  the  salt-petre  is  found  deposited,  and  in  most 
cases  so  pure,  that  it  requires  only  one  washing  to  render  it  lit 
for  use  or  export.* 

When  these  caves  were  first  discovered,  it  was  not  unusual  to 

*  1;  The  abundance  of  nitre  generated  in  these  caves,”  observes  Mr.  Bradbury,  ‘‘  is  a-circumstance 
which  should  not  be  passed  over  unnoticed.  These  caves  are  always  in  the  limestone  rocks ;  and  in 
those  which  produce  the  nitre,  thebottom  is  covered  with  earth,  which  is  strongly  impregnated  with 
jt,  and  is  visible  in  needle-form  crystals.  In  order  to  obtain  the  nitre,  the  earth  is-collected  and  lixiv¬ 
iated  ;  the  water,  after  being  saturated,  is  boiled  down,  anti  suffered  to  stand  sill  the  crystals  are 
formed.  In  this  manner,  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  three  men  to  make  100  lbs.  of  salt-petre  in  one 
-day.  As  tliesecaves  may  probably  have  been  the  resort  of  wild  animals  in  former  times,  the  accumu¬ 
lation  of  nitre  inthe  first  instance  is  not  surprising;  but  that  theearth,on  being  again  spread  on  the 
bottom  ofthe  cave,  should  be  re-impregnated  in  the  space  of  four  or  live  years,  is  not  so  easily  ac¬ 
counted  for  ;  that  this  is  a  fact,  many  who  have  been  employed  in  making  salt-pette,  have  assured 
ate-”  Travels  in  the  interior  of  the  United  States. 


SO 


284 


GAZETTEER  OP  MISSOURI. 


find  in  them  Indian  axes  and  hammers,  which  led  to  the  belie? 
that  they  had  formerly  been  worked  for  some  unknown  purpose 
by  the  savages.  It  is  difficult  to  decide  whether  these  tools  were 
left  here  by  the  present  rare,  or  by  another  and  more  civilized 
which  preceded  them.  Although  it  is  unusual  for  the  savages  of 
our  day  to  take  up  their  residence  in  caves,  considering  them  the 
places  to  which  the  Maniton  resorts — although  they  are  not 
acquainted  with  any  of  the  uses  of  the  salt-petre,  and  would  ra¬ 
ther  avoid  than  collect  it ;  the  circumstance  of  finding  these  tools 
in  the  caves,  would  of  itself,  perhaps,  furnish  slight  evidence  that 
the  country  of  the  Gasconade  was  formerly  settled  by  a  race  of 
men,  who  were  acquainted  with  the  uses  of  this  mineral,  or  w  ho 
exceeded  them  in  civilization,  or  in  the  knowledge  of  the  arts. 
But  there  are  other  facts  connected  with  these,  about  which  there 
can  be  no  mistake.  Near  the  saw-mills,  and  at  a  short  distance 
from  the  road  leading  from  them  to  St.  Louis,  are  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  town.  It  appears  to  have  been  regularly  laid  out,  and 
the  dimensions  of  the  squares,  streets,  and  some  of  the  houses* 
can  yet  he  discovered.  Stone  walls  are  found  in  different  parts 
of  the  area,  which  are  frequently  covered  by  huge  heaps  of 
earth.  Again,  a  stone  work  exists,  as  1  am  informed  by  Gen. 
Ashley,  about  10  miles  below  the  mills.  It  is  on  the  west  side  of 
the  Gasconade,  and  is  about  25  or  SO  feet  square  ;  and  although 
at  present  in  a  dilapidated  condition,  appears  to  have  been  origi¬ 
nally  built  with  an  uncommon  degree  of  regularity.  It  is  situa¬ 
ted  on  a  high  bald  cliff,  which  commands  a  fine  and  an  extensive 
view  of  the  country  on  all  sides.  From  this  stone  work  is  a 
small  foot  path  running  a  devious  course  down  the  cliff  to  the 
the  entrance  of  a  cave,  in  w  hich  was  found  a  quantity  of  ashes. 
The  mouth  of  the  cav  e  commands  an  easterly  view. 

It  would  he  useless  at  this  time  to  hazard  an  opinion  with  re¬ 
gard  to  the  uses  of  this  work,  or  the  beings  who  erected  it.  In 
connexion  with  those  of  a  similar  kind  which  exist  on  the  Missis¬ 
sippi,  it  forms  an  interesting  subject  for  speculation.  They  evi¬ 
dently  form  a  distinct  class  of  ancient  works,  of  w  hich  i  have  as 
yet  seen  uo  description. 

Gasconade  county  contains  1174  inhabitants.  It  is  attached 
ip  the  second  judicial  circuit  j  sends  one  member  to  the  house 


GENERAL  VIEW  OP  COUNTIES. 


285> 


of  representatives,  and  with  Callaway  and  Franklin,  one  to  the 
senate,  its  seat  of  justice  is  Gasconade. 

Howard  County. 

Howard  county  was  erected  from  St.  Louis  and  St.  Charles  in 
1818,  and  was  then  very  extensive  ;  but  by  successive  subdivis¬ 
ions,  it  is  now  restricted  to  a  much  smaller  area,  its  present 
form  is  a  rhomb,  whose  greatest  length  is  22  miles  ;  greatest 
breadth  22  ;  area  about  470  square  miles,  it  is  bounded  north 
by  the  county  of  Chariton,  east  by  Boone,  south  by  Cooper,  and 
west  by  Cooper  and  Chariton.  The  southern  boundary  is  wash¬ 
ed  by  the  Missouri ;  the  interior  is  watered  by  Mauitou,  Bonne- 
femme,  and  other  creeks  running  a  southerly  course,  and  emp¬ 
tying  into  it. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  generally  level,  and  the  soil  of  the 
first  quality.  Ever  since  its  discovery,  no  tract  of  country  has 
beenso  highly  esteemed  as  the  “  Boone’s  Lick,*’  It  was  first  set¬ 
tled  by  Col.  Daniel  Boone,  so*  celebrated  in  the  history  of  the 
western  states.  Its  soil  is  fertile,  and  is  watered  by  springs 
ami  streams,  which  afford  the  finest  mill  seats  r  it  contains  tim¬ 
ber  in  abundance,  and  above  all,  is  generally  very  healthy. — 
In  addition  to  these,  salt  is  very  abundant  throughout  every  part 
of  this  county;  and  is  already  an  article  of  export.  Three  of  the 
springs  have  been  selected  by  the  commissioners  appointed  for 
that  purpose  for  the  use  of  the  state. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  county  have,  within  a  few  years,  turn* 
ed  their  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  tobacco,  which  thus  far 
has  exceeded  their  most  sanguine  expectations.  A  considerable 
quantity  is  now  annually  exported,  and  this  quantity  will  be  in¬ 
creased,  in  proportion  to  the  demand.  The  establishment  of  in¬ 
spections  at  the  last  session  of  the  legislature,  will  have  an  im¬ 
portant  effect  in  raising  the  character  of  the  Missouri  tobacco> 
and  will  serve  to  stimulate  the  planter  to  greater  exertions. 

The  exports  of  Howard  are  bacon,  hams,  salt,  furs  and  pel¬ 
tries.  It  is  thought  by  many,  that  cotton  will  soon  be  added  to 
the  list  ;  but  although  success  has  attended  its  cultivation  in  se¬ 
veral  places  on  the  Missouri  river,  it  is  extremely  doubtful  whe¬ 
ther  it  will  ever  be  of  any  consequence  as  an  article  of  export.*— 


236 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI, 


A  sufficiency  will  no  doubt  be  raised  for  home  consumption,  bnl 
the  uncertainty  of  the  crop,  arising  from  the  seasons,  will  pre¬ 
vent  it  from  competing  in  the  least  with  that  of  the  more  south¬ 
ern  states.  The  bottoms  of  the  Missouri  in  this  count}  are  very 
rich  and  extensive,  and  many  of  them  already  contain  a  very 
dense  population.  The  country  for  40  or  50  miles  north  of  this, 
may  bear  the  character  of  rich  woodland  ;  the  prairies  forming 
hut  a  trifling  proportion. 

Howard  county  contains  7331  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to 
the  first  judicial  circuit ;  sends  five  members  to  the  house  of  rep¬ 
resentatives,  and  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  Frank¬ 
lin . 

Jefferson  County# 

Jefferson  county  was  erected  from  St.  Louis  and  St  Genevieve 
jii  1818.  It  is  bounded  north  by  the  county  of  St.  Louis,  east  by 
the  Mississippi  river,  south  by  the  counties  of  St.  Genevieve,  St- 
Francois  and  Washington,  and  west  by  Washington  and  Frank¬ 
lin.  Its  greatest  length  is  33  miles  ;  greatest  breadth  28  ;  area 
about  720  square  miles.  The  eastern  boundary  is  washed  by 
the  Mississippi,  and  a  part  of  the  northern  by  the  Merrimack  : 
the  interior  is  watered  by  Grand  river  and  its  brandies,  and  by 
several  small  streams  running  east  into  the  Mississippi. 

The  banks  of  the  Mississippi  in  this  county,  are  in  many  pla¬ 
ces  high  and  rocky.  Some  of  them  have  an  elevation  of  two  or 
tin  *ee  hundred  feet,  and  are  so  disposed  as,  on  a  distant  view,  to 
exhibit  the  appearance  of  artificial  towers.  They  arc  solid  mas¬ 
ses  of  limestone,  deposited  in  horizontal  strata,  in  the  northern 
and  eastern  parts  of  the  county,  the  surface  is  generally  level  ; 
in  the  western  it  is  rough  and  hilly.  A  prolific  soil  characteri¬ 
zes  the  former ;  whereas  the  latter  is  comparatively  sterile.  The 
principal  farming  districts,  are  on  the  banks  of  the  Platten,  Joa¬ 
chim  and  Sandy  creeks.  The  southern  shores  of  the  Merrimack, 
and  the  eastern  banks  of  Big  river,  also  afford  good  land.*  Lead 
has  been  found  in  several  places  in  this  county,  but  has  only  been 
worked  at  Gray’s  mine  and  Mt  Kane’s  mine,  the  latter  situated  on 
Dry  creek,  a  stream  runninginto  Big  river  from  the  Jefferson  side. 


*  Schoolcraft’s  View  of  the  Lear!  Mines  of  Missouri- 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


237 


It  has  also  been  found  in  several  places  on  the  banks  of  Platten 
and  Joachim  creeks.  Iron  ore  is  found  in  Big  river  township, 
and  on  the  Platten  and  Sandy  creeks.  Salt  was  formerly  made 
at  the  works  on  the  Merrimack.  The  water  is  represented  to  be 
strong,  but  the  works  have  been  suffered  to  lie  idle,  in  conse¬ 
quence,  it  is  understood,  of  a  dispute  respecting  the  land  title.* 
There  are,  however,  other  works  now  in  operation,  about  12 
miles  north  of  Herculaneum,  where  salt  of  a  good  quality  is  ma¬ 
nufactured  by  the  boiling  process.  There  are  also  a  number  of 
sulphur  springs,  which  are  frequently  resorted  to  by  valetudina¬ 
rians.  The  waters  are  said  to  be  signally  beneficial  in  affections 
of  the  liver  ;  but  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  their  virtues  have 
been  much  o\errated.  They  are,  however,  gently  laxative  and 
sudorific. 

From  the  number  of  fine  mill  streams,  and  the  many  advanta¬ 
geous  situations  which  are  every  where  presented,  there  is  no 
doubt  this  is  destined  to  become  a  great  manufacturing  county. 
It  already  contains  several  grist  mills,  shot  manufactories  and 
distilleries. 

Jefferson  county  contains  1838  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to 
the  third  judicial  circuit ;  sends  two  members  to  the  house  of 
representatives,  and  with  Washington,  one  to  the  senate.  Its 
seat  of  justice  is  Herculaneum . 

Lillard  County. 

Lillard  county  was  erected  from  Cooper  in  1820.  It  is  situ¬ 
ated  in  the  western  part  of  the  state,  and  is  included  within  the 
following  boundaries  :  Beginning  at  a  point  in  the  middle  of  the 
main  channel  of  the  Missouri  river,  opposite  the  range  line  be¬ 
tween  ranges  23  and  24,  thence  with  said  line  to  the  termination 
thereof;  thence  due  south  to  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  of 
the  Osage  river ;  thence  up  said  river  in  the  middle  of  the  main 
channel  thereof,  to  the  western  boundary  line  of  the  state  ; 
thence  north  with  the  said  boundary  line,  to  the  middle  of  the 
main  channel  of  the  Missouri  river  ;  thence  down  the  said  river 
in  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  thereof,  to  the  place  of  begin¬ 
ning.  Phis  county  is  at  present  very  extensive,  its  greatest 


*  SclioolcrafV 


338 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


length  being  upwards  of  100  miles,  and  its  breadth  about  60* 
Its  form  is  an  irregular  oblong,  whose  area  may  be  about  6500 
square  miles.  The  northern  boundary  is  washed  by  the  Missouri 
river;  the  interior  is  watered  by  the  sources  of  La  Mine  river, 
Talbot  creek,  Chenel-ebert,  Blue-water  river,  and  many  other 
streams  running  north,  and  emptying  into  the  Missouri.  The 
southern  part  of  the  county  is  watered  by  the  Osage  river,  and 
numerous  tributaries. 

Lillard  county  ,  contains  a  large  proportion  of  first  rate  farm¬ 
ing  land,  particularly  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri ;  there  are 
also  some  districts  of  good  land  on  Talbot  and  Chenel-ebert. 
In  the  interior  the  prairies  are  frequently  very  extensive,  and 
towards  the  southern  section  it  is  broken  by  the  hills  dividing 
the  w  aters  of  the  Osage  from  those  of  the  Missouri. 

The  first  settlements  wTere  made  in  this  county  in  1817  :  at 
present  it  contains  1340  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the  first 
judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  representa¬ 
tives,  and  with  Clay,  Ray  and  Chariton,  one  to  the  senate.  Its 
seat  of  justice  is  J)Iour\l  Vernon. 

Lincoln  County. 

Lincoln  counhj  was  erected  from  St.  Charles  in  1818.  Its  form 
is  nearly  a  square,  and  its  area  is  about  575  square  miles.  It  is 
bounded  north  by  the  county  of  Pike,  east  by  the  state  of  Illinois, 
south  by  the  counties  of  St.  Charles  and  Montgomery,  and  west 
by  Montgomery  and  Pike.  The  eastern  boundary  is  washed  by 
the  Mississippi  river;  the  interior  is  watered  by  Riviere  au 
Cuivre  and  its  tributaries,  and  by  several  other  streams  running 
east. 

This  county  contains  a  considerable  proportion  of  good  land  : 
the  soil  is  generally  fertile,  and  the  surface  level.  There  exists 
a  fine  proportion  of  prairie  and  timbered  land.  It  contains  a 
population  of  1674  ;  is  attached  to  the  second  judicial  circuit ; 
sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  representatives,  and  with 
Montgomery,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justiefc  is  Alexandria, 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


239 


Madison  County* 

Madison  county  was  erected  from  the  counties  of  St.  Genevieve 
and  Cape  Girardeau  in  1818,  but  has  since  been  much  reduced 
in  its  size.  It  is  situated  in  what  is  called  the  “  Mine  country,” 
and  is  bounded  north  by  the  county  of  St.  Francois,  east  by  Ferry 
and  Cape  Girardeau,  south  by  Wayne,  and  west  by  Washing¬ 
ton.  Its  form  is  an  irregular  oblong,  whose  greatest  length  is 
36  miles  :  greatest  breadth  28  :  area  about  900  square  miles. 

This  county  is  watered  by  Castor  creek,  the  St.  Francis,  and 
Black  river  ;  the  latter  forming  a  part  of  its  western  boundary. 
Like  other  parts  of  the  mine  tract,  of  which  Madison  forms  the 
southern  limit,  the  soil  is  rarely  first  rate  ;  and  the  surface  is 
generally  broken  and  hilly  The  principal  district  of  good  farm¬ 
ing  land  lies  along  Village  creek,  and  the  eastern  shore  of  the 
St.  Francis,  which  runs  nearly  north  and  south.*  The  mineral 
products  of  this  county  are  lead,  iron,  and  plumbago.  Lead  has 
been  found  in  several  places,  although  it  has  not  as  yet  been 
worked  except  at  Mine  La  Motto,  situated  four  miles  from  the 
St.  Francis,  near  St.  Michael’s.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest  mines 
in  the  state,  having  been  discovered  in  1720,  by  the  person 
whose  name  it  bears.  It  has  been  constantly  wrought  tor  many 
years  ;  and  although  only  a  superficial  system  of  mining  has  as 
yet  been  pursued,  it  annually  produces  a  large  quantity  of  ore. 

Madison  county  contains  1907  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to 
the  fourth  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of 
representatives,  and  with  Wayne,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of 
justice  is  Fredencktown. 

Montgomery  County. 

Montgomery  county  was  erected  from  St.  Charles  in  1818.  Its 
form  is  irregular  ;  its  greatest  length  is  36  miles ;  greatest 
breadth  30  ;  area  about  900  square  miles.  Bounded  north  by 
the  counties  of  Lincoln,  Bike  and  Ralls,  cast  by  St.  Charles, 
south  by  Franklin  and  Gasconade,  and  west  by  Callaway. 

This  county  is  washed  on  the  south  by  the  Missouri  river  ;  the 
interior  is  abundantly  watered  by  Loutre  river,  Lost  and  Cha* 


-*  Schoolcraft’s  View. 


240 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


Tette  creeks,  and  by  several  small  streams,  running  a  norib 
course,  and  emptying  into  the  Cuivre  river.  The  lands  on  the 
Missouri  arc  generally  level  and  very  fertile  ;  the  interior  is  tra¬ 
versed  by  the  range  of  hills,  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Missou¬ 
ri  from  those  of  the  Mississippi,  on  which  there  are  but  rarely 
districts  of  good  farming  land. 

The  climate  and  productions  of  this  county  are  similar  to  all 
thdse  bordering  on  the  Missouri  :  like  them,  it  possesses  im¬ 
mense  agricultural  resources  ;  and  the  never  failing  stream 
which  sweeps  along  its  southern  boundary,  affords  the  inhabit¬ 
ants  every  facility  for  exporting  their  surplus  produce. 

Montgomery  county  contains  2032  inhabitants.  It  is  attach¬ 
ed  to  the  second  judicial  district  ;  sends  two  members  to  the 
house  of  representatives,  and  with  Lincoln,  one  to  the  senate. — • 
Its  seat  of  justice  is  Pinkney* 

New-Madrid  County. 

New -Madrid  county  is  the  most  southern  in  the  state,  and  was 
erected  at  an  early  period.  Originally,  it  was  very  extensive* 
but  by  subsequent  subdivisions,  its  limits  have  been  much  redu¬ 
ced.  At  present,  its  greatest  length  is  60  miles  ;  greatest 
breadth  46  ;  area  about  2500  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north 
by  the  counties  of  Scott  and  Cape  Girardeau,  east  by  the  state 
of  Kentucky,  south  by  the  territory  of  Arkansas  and  Wayne 
county. 

The  eastern  boundary  of  New-Madrid  is  washed  by  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  and  the  western  by  the  St.  Francois.  The  interior  is 
watered  by  numerous  small  streams,  running  east  and  west  into 
these  rivers.  It  is,  however,  worthy  of  remark,  that  no  consid¬ 
erable  stream  empties  into  the  Mississippi  on  the  west  side  from 
the  Merrimack  to  the  St.  Francois,  a  distance  of  several  hun¬ 
dred  miles.  The  lands  in  this  county  are  generally  flat  in  many 
places,  abounding  with  ponds  and  marshes,  which  are  periodically 
inundated.  These  marshes,  filled  with  cypress,  are  mostly  dry 
in  summer;  and  unless  they  be  drained  at  great  expense,  or  banks 
be  constructed  to  keep  the  water  from  them,  they  will  never 
be  of  any  service  to  agriculturalists,  other  than  as  ranges  for 
cattle.  Many  creeks  or  bayous  take  their  rise  in  them,  and  flow 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


241 


into  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Francois  ;  and  it  is  calculated  that 
there  are  as  many  as  one  to  every  fifteen  miles.  The  swamps 
are  generally  in  a  central  position  between  the  two  rivers  ;  and 
frequently  communicate  with  both  by  forming  creeks  or  bayous, 
which  are  navigable  during  freshets.  The  lands  on  the  banks 
of  the  rivers,  and  other  streams,  are  much  more  elevated  than 
the  intermediate  tracts  ;  they  are  seldom  overflowed,  and  pre¬ 
sent  a  thrifty  growth  of  large  trees.  Prairies  abound  in  the  in¬ 
terior,  as  also  some  large  tracts  of  upland,  calculated  for  rich 
and  extensive  plantations.*  This  county  has  no  variety  of  soil* 
The  lands  are  mostly  what  are  called  bottoms  or  intervals,  and 
are  composed  of  a  deep  rich  mould,  calculated  for  most  kinds 
of  grain,  cotton,  tobacco,  flax  and  hemp.  The  more  elevated 
grounds  yield  30  bushels  of  wheat,  and  80  of  corn,  to  the  acre. 
Some  of  the  bottoms  are  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  trees, 
to  which  large  droves  of  cattle  resort  in  the  winter  season. 

The  first  settlement  was  made  here  in  1787,  by  Col.  Morgan 
of  New-Jersey,  who  laid  out  the  town  of  New-Madrid.  It  had, 
however,  for  a  long  time  previous  been  the  rendezvous  of  hunters 
and  traders.  After  building  a  small  number  of  houses,  the  in¬ 
habitants  bec  ame  very  sit  kly ,  and  no  farther  progress  was  made 
in  the  settlement.  Morgan,  in  consequence  of  some  obstacles  to 
his  designs,  created  by  the  Spanish  government,  abandoned  his 
pursuits  and  left  the  country.f  The  settlements,  however,  havp 
been  gradually  extended,  and  are  formed  chiefly  along  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  not  only  because  the  lands  near  the  banks  are  less  ex¬ 
posed  to  inundation,  but  because  that  navigable  stream  affords 
the  desired  fut  ilities  for  commerce. 

The  climate  of  this  county  is  so  mild,  that  the  culture  of  cot¬ 
ton  and  tobacco  is  attended  with  every  success.  Its  sickli¬ 
ness,  however,  has  prevented  it  from  being  settled  so  rapidly  as 
other  sections  of  the  state.  Whether  this  will  materially  retard 
its  prosperity,  or  w  hether  by  continued,  although  partial  culti¬ 
vation,  it  will  become  healthy,  is  a  question  w  hich  time  alone 
can  decide.  At  present,  it  must  be  acknowledged,  that  it  is 
more  unhealthy  than  any  other  part  of  the  state  ;  but  from  its 
situation,  a  stranger  would  be  inclined  to  believe  that  it  was 

t  Ibid: 


*  Stoddard^  Sketches  cf  I.<n*i?ian?b 


31 


242' 


Gazetteer  of  Missouri. 


more  subject  to  dangerous  diseases  than  it  really  is.  The  mias- 
mata  from  the  swamps  no  doubt  poison  the  air,  and  produce  in 
termittents  and  bilious  fevers,  although  they  are  seldom  very 
malignant.  Indeed,  the  sick  have  suffered  more  from  the  want 
of  medicine,  than  from  the  obstinate  nature  of  the  diseases.* 

New-Madrid  county,  previous  to  its  late  subdivision,  contain¬ 
ed  2443  inhabitants.  At  present  it  contains  about  1500.  It  is 
attached  to  the  fourth  judicial  circuit sends  one  member  to  tbe 
house  of  representatives,  and  with  Scott,  one  to  the  senate.  Its 
seat  of  justice  is  Winchester. 

Perry  County. 

Perry  county  was  erected  from  St.  Genevieve  in  1 820,  and  is 
bounded  north  hy  that  county,  east  by  the  Mississippi  river, 
south  by  Cape  Girardeau,  and  west  by  Madison,  St.  Francois 
and  St.  Genevieve.  Its  greatest  length  is  33  miles ;  greatest 
breadth  20  ;  area  about  430  square  miles. 

This  county  is  washed  by  the  Mississippi  river  on  the  east  $ 
the  interior  is  watered  hy  Apple  and  Saline  creeks,  and  other 
streams  falling  into  the  Mississippi.  The  face  of  the  country  is 
generally  uneven,  and  the  soil  is  second  rate.  The  most  valua¬ 
ble  district  of  farming  land  is  Bois  brule  bottom,  which  extends 
along  the  margin  of  the  Mississippi,  about  20  miles.  It  is  about 
3  miles  in  width,  and  is  covered  in  many  places  with  a  heavy 
growth  of  trees,  such  as  are  peculiar  to  the  most  fertile  alluvi¬ 
ons.  The  settlements  on  it  are  already  very  considerable,  and 
are  daily  increasing.  In  the  interior,  the  soil  is  frequently  ster¬ 
ile,  and  unfit  for  cultivation.  It  contains  lead  and  iron,  but  no 
mines  have  as  yet  been  opened. 

Perry  county  contains  1599  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  tbe 
fourth  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  rep¬ 
resentatives,  and  with  St.  Genevieve  and  St.  Francois,  one  to  the 
senate.  Its  county  seat  is  Perryville. 

Pike  County. 

> 

Pike  county  was  erected  from  St.  Charles  in  1818,  and  named 
in  honour  of  Gen*  Z.  M*  Pike,  It  was  formerly  very  extensive. 


*  Stoddard. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


out  has  been  much  reduced  by  recent  subdivisions.  At  present, 
its  greatest  length  is  56  miles  ;  greatest  breadth  50  ;  area  about 
680  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  and  west  by  the  county 
of  Ral^s,  east  by  the  state  of  Illinois,  south  by  the  counties  of 
Lincoln  and  Montgomery. 

This  county  is  washed  on  the  east  hy  the  Mississippi  river  : 
the  interior  is  watered  hy  Salt  river  and  its  tributaries,  and  by 
the  head  waters  of  Cuivre  river,  and  sever  al  smaller  streams. — 
The  largest  bodies  of  farming  laud  are  on  Salt  river,  and  along 
the  bank  of  the  Mississippi.  The  bottoms  are  not  exceeded  by 
any  in  the  state  for  the  fertility  of  their  soil.  Towards  the  west¬ 
ern  part  of  the  county,  the  surface  is  undulating,  and  in  some 
places  hilly,  although  the  soil  is  of  a  good  quality.  Salt  springs 
are  found  in  great  abundance,  and  have  been  profitably  worked 
ever  since  the  first  settlement.  Small  quantities  of  lead  have 
also  been  found,  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  it  is  very  abundant. 

In  this  county,  are  several  singular  and  interesting  ancient 
works,  which  are  similar  in  some  respects,  to  those  on  the  Gas¬ 
conade.  They  arc  situated  on  JYoijer  creek ,  and  will  be  describ¬ 
ed  under  that  article. 

Pike  county  contains  2677  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the 
second  judicial  circuit ;  sends  two  members  to  the  house  of  rep¬ 
resentatives,  and  with  Ralls  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice 
is  Louisiana- rille. 


Ralls  County. 

Halls  comity  was  erected  from  Pike  in  1820,  and  is  very  ex¬ 
tensive.  Its  form  is  an  irregular  oblong,  95  miles  in  length, 
with  a  medium  width  of  50  miles  ;  area  about  4600  square  miles- 
It  is  hounded  north  by  the  northern  boundary  of  the  state,  east 
hy  Illinois,  south  hy  the  counties  of  Pike,  Montgomery,  Calla¬ 
way  and  Boone,  and  west  by  Chariton. 

This  county  is  washed  on  the  east  by  the  Riviere  des  Moines 
and  Mississippi ;  the  interior  is  abundantly  watered  by  Salt  ri¬ 
ver  and  its  tributaries,  hy  the  Two  rivers,  the  Fabbajand  Waron- 
da  creeks,  and  a  number  of  smaller  streams.  On  the  hanks  of 
the  Mississippi  and  Salt  river,  are  several  extensive  and  fertile 
bottoms,  which  are  frequently  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of 


244 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


timber,  and  afford  every  inducement  to  the  agriculturalist. — - 
There  are  several  small  districts  of  good  farming  land  on  Two 
Rivers,  and  the  other  streams  north.  The  interior  of  the  county 
is  uneven,  and  occasionally  hilly,  being  crossed  by  the  range  di¬ 
viding  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  from  those  of  the  Mississippi. 
This  county  abounds  with  lead  and  iron  ore. 

Ralls  contains  1684  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the 
second  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  bouse  of  repre- 
centatives.  and  with  Pike,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice 
is  New -London . 

Ray  County. 

Kay  countif  was  erected  from  Howard  in  1820,  and  is  bounded 
north  by  the  northern  boundary  of  the  state,  east  by  the  county 
of  Chariton,  south  by  Saline  and  Lillard,  and  west  by  Clay, 
Its  form  is  an  oblong,  100  miles  in  length,  and  48  in  breadth  : 
area  about  4s00  square  miles.  The  southern  boundary  is  wash¬ 
ed  by  the  Missouri  river  ;  the  interior  is  abundantly  watered  by 
Grand  river  and  its  tributaries,  Fishing  river,  and  numerous  oth¬ 
er  streams  emptying  into  the  Missouri.  The  principal  districts 
of  farming  lauds  are  on  the  banks  of  Grand  and  Fishing  river. 
Frequently,  however,  rich  bottoms  occur  on  the  Missouri,  and 
the  smaller  streams  emptying  into  it  between  these.  The  principal 
objection  to  the  interior  is  the  want  of  timber.  The  prairies, 
allhough  generally  fertile,  are  so  very  extensive,  that  they  must 
for  a  great  length  of  time,  and  perhaps  forever,  remain  wild  and 
uncultivated  ;  yet  such  is  the  enterprise  of  the  American  citi¬ 
zens— such  the  emigration  to  the  west,  that  it  almost  amounts 
to  presumption  to  hazard  an  opinion  on  the  subject.  Perhaps 
before  the  expiration  of  ten  years,  instead  of  being  bleak  and 
desolate,  they  may  have  been  converted  into  immense  grazing 
fields,  covered  with  herds  of  cattle.  It  is  not  possible,  however, 
that  the  interior  of  these  prairies  can  be  inhabited  ;  for,  setting 
aside  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  timber,  it  is  on  other  accounts 
unpleasant  and  uncomfortable.  In  winter  the  northern  and 
western  blasts  are  excessively  cold,  and  the  snow  is  drifted  like 
hills  and  mountains,  so  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  cross  from 
one  side  of  a  prairie  to  the  other.  In  summer,  on  the  contrary. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


245 


the  sun  acting  upon  such  an  extensive  surface,  and  the  southerly 
winds  which  uniformly  prev  ail  during  this  season,  produce  a  de¬ 
gree  of  heat  almost  insupportable. 

It  should  not,  by  any  means,  he  understood  that  these  otijec-  » 
lions  apply  to  all  the  prairies.  The  smaller  ones  are  not 
subject  to  these  inconveniences ;  on  the  contrary,  they  are 
by  far  the  most  desirable  and  pleasant  situations  for  settle¬ 
ment.  There  are  of  this  description  in  the  county  of  which  we 
are  treating  ;  surrounded  by  forests,  and  containing  here  and 
there  groves  of  the  finest  timber,  watered  by  beautiful  running 
streams,  presenting  an  elevated,  rolling  or  undulating  sur  face, 
and  a  soil  rarely  equalled  in  fertility. 

This  county  is  in  many  respects  favourably  situated.  Grand 
river,  which  passes  through  it,  is  navigable  for  some  distance  ; 
and  together  with  the  Missouri,  affords  every  advantage  for 
commerce.  Very  little,  however,  is  as  yet  raised  for  export. 
Its  productions  w  ill  be  similar  to  those  of  the  lower  counties. 

Ray  county  contains  1789  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the 
first  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  repre¬ 
sentatives,  and  with  Clay,  Li  Hard  and  Chariton*  one  to  the  se,» 
mate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  Bluff  toy. 

Saline  County. 

Saline  county  was  erected  from  Cooper  in  1820,  and  is  bound¬ 
ed  north  by  the  counties  of  Chariton  and  Ray,  east  by  Cooper, 
south  by  the  territory  attached  to  Gasconade,  and  west  by  Lil- 
lard  county.  Its  form  is  an  irregular  oblong  :  its  greatest  length 
is  100  miles  ;  greatest  breadth  SO  miles  :  area  about  1800  square 
miles.  The  northern  boundary  is  washed  by  the  Missouri  ri¬ 
ver  ;  the  interior  is  watered  by  La  Mine  river,  Salt  fork,  and 
several  large  tributaries  of  the  Osage. 

This  county  contains  a  considerable  proportion  of  good  farm¬ 
ing  land.  The  banks  of  the  Missouri  are  beautifully  interspersed 
with  alluvion  and  upland,  which  are  alternately  timbered  and 
prairie.  In  the  interior,  there  are  several  bodies  of  good  land 
on  La  Mine  river  and  Salt  fork.  The  southern  part  of  the  coun¬ 
ty  is  rough,  broken,  and  sometimes  hilly.  In  many  places  the 
prairies  are  very  extensive*  and  almost  unfit  for  cultivation. 


246 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


Salt  is  very  abundant  in  this  county,  and  also  iron  ore.  Lead  has 
not  been  found  in  any  considerable  quantity. 

Saline  county  contains  1176  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the 
first  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  repre¬ 
sentatives,  and  with  Cooper  and  Cole,  one  to  the  senate.  Its 
seat  of  justice  is  Jefferson. 

Scott  County. 

Scott  comity  was  erected  from  New-Madrid  in  1822.  Its 
form  is  somewhat  triangular  :  greatest  length  45  miles  :  greatest 
breadth  40  :  area  about  800  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north 
by  the  county  of  Cape  Girardeau,  east  by  the  state  of  Illinois, 
south  and  west  by  the  county  of  New-Madrid.  The  eastern 
boundary  is  washed  by  the  Mississippi ;  the  interior  is  watered 
by  \Y  hite-water  creek,  and  several  small  streams  running  east 
and  west  into  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Francis  rivers. 

The  lands  in  this  county  are  very  similar  in  their  character  to 
those  of  New-Madrid.  They  are  generally  champaign  and  fer¬ 
tile.  Tywapaty  bottom,  an  extensive  tract  situated  on  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  is  celebrated  for  its  fertility. 
It  produces  a  thick  growth  of  timber,  and  many  of  the  trees  are 
of  extraordinary  size.  Part  of  this  bottom,  which  is  about  20 
miles  long,  and  from  three  to  six  broad,  produces  an  immense 
quantity  of  rushes.  These  grow  to  the  height  of  about  eight 
feet :  they  are  large,  and  stand  so  thick  that  it  is  difficult  for  a 
man  to  make  his  way  among  them.  Large  droves  of  cattle  re¬ 
sort  here  in  winter,  and  fatten  on  them.*  The  interior  of 
the  county  is  in  many  places  covered  with  swamps,  which  arc 
generally  dry  in  summer,  but  will  never  be  fit  for  cultivation. 
Along  the  banks  of  the  streams  the  lands  arc  elevated,  and  in 
many  places  undulating,  and  calculated  for  rich  and  extensive 
settlements.  The  productions  are  similar  to  those  of  New-Ma¬ 
drid,  and  the  same  objection  with  regard  to  health  exists  here. 
Indeed  it  could  not  be  other  than  unhealthy,  exposed  as  it  is 
to  the  annual  inundations  of  the  Mississippi  on  the  one  side,  and 
the  miasmata  arising  from  stagnant  ponds  and  marshes  on  thp 
other. 


*  Stoddard. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


241 

As  this  county  lias  been  erected  since  the  last  census,  its  pre¬ 
cise  population  is  not  known  ;  it  may,  however,  be  about  1000. 
It  sends  one  member  to  tbe  house  of  representatives,  and  with 
New-Madrid,  one  to  the  senate. 

St.  Charles  County. 

St.  Charles  county  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  the  state,  and 
was  originally  very  extensive,  but  has  been  greatly  reduced  by 
recent  divisions.  Its  form  is  very  irregular  :  its  greatest  length 
is  40  miles  ;  greatest  breadth  24  :  area  about  500  square  miles. 
It  is  bounded  north  by  Lincoln  county  and  the  state  of  Illinois, 
east  by  the  state  of  Illinois  and  the  county  of  St.  Louis,  south  by 
St.  Louis  and  Franklin,  and  west  by  Montgomery.  The  north¬ 
ern  and  southern  boundaries  are  washed  by  the  Mississippi  and 
Missouri  ;  the  interior  is  watered  by  Perrique,  Dardenne.  and 
Femme  Osage  creeks,  and  several  small  branches  of  Cuivre 
river.  r 

This  county  contains  a  large  proportion  of  rich  land,  capable 
of  supporting  a  very  dense  population.  On  the  banks  of  the 
Mississippi,  a  prairie  extends  from  the  mouth  of  the.  Missouri  50 
or  60  miles  north,  being  from  three  to  ten  miles  in  width.  This 
presents  one  uninterrupted  extent  of  level  rich  land,  intersected 
here  and  there  by  a  small  creek  or  rivulet,  bordered  by  a  few7 
scattering  trees.  The.  bottoms  on  the  Missour  i  are  generally 
heavily  timbered,  and  very  fertile.  After  leaving  these  bottoms, 
the  lands  become  high  and  undulating,  although  not  hilly  ;  lire 
soil  is  deep  and  strong,  and  there  is  no  w  ant  of  timber,  or  good 
wholesome  water.  The  American  settlers  have  generally  pre¬ 
ferred  these  situations,  and  have  left  the  French  undisturbed 
in  their*  settlements  at  Portage  dcs  Sioux  and  Mar  ais  Croclie, 
which  are  on  the  prair  ie  bottoms. 

This  county,  situated  as  it  is  at  the  junction  of  three  large 
streams,  combines  numerous  advantages,  which  point  it  out  as 
a  most  eligible  part  of  the  country  for  farmers.  Exclusive  of 
the  large  streams,  as  has  been  already  observed,  it  is  intersect¬ 
ed  by  a  variety  of  smaller  ones  ;  some  of  them  affording  an  in¬ 
land  navigation  of  several  miles,  ami  most  of  them  calculated  for 
mills  and  other  water  w  orks. 


248 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


The  lands  in  what  is  called  the  “Forks  ot* the  Missouri,”  are 
generally  level.  Ten  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri, 
the  Mississippi  and  the  former  stream  approach  each  other  with¬ 
in  466  rods,  a  short  distance  below  Portage  des  Sioux.  From 
this  to  St.  Charles,  a  distance  of  about  12  miles,  is  one  extended 
prairie,  leaving  a  strip  of  timbered  land  on  the  river  from  a  mile 
to  a  mile  and  a  half  in  width.  On  the  Mississippi,  a  narrow 
strip  of  timber  extends  to  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois. 

The  Mamedts ,  so  called  by  the  French  from  their  resemblance 
to  human  breasts,  are  the  points  where  the  bluffs  of  the  Missouri 
and  Mississippi  terminate.  They  are  situated  three  miles  below 
St.  Charles,  six  from  the  Mississippi,  and  one  from  the  Missouri 
l  iver,  and  are  upwards  of  100  feet  in  height.  Standing  on  these, 
and  casting  the  eye  to  the  north  and  east,  an  extensive  prairie  is 
presented  to  the  view,  variegated  only  by  two  or  three  small 
groves  of  timber.  From  this  eminence,  the  whole  has  the  ap¬ 
pearance  of  a  perfectly  level  plain  ;  but  in  travelling  over  it,  we 
discover  some  undulations  in  the  surface. 

Above  the  river  Uardenne,  the  banks,  of  which  are  low  and 
subject  to  inundation,  the  lands  become  elevated  and  undulating. 
The  range  of  hills  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  from 
those  of  the  Mississippi,  extend  through  the  northwestern  part 
of  the  county.  This  contains  a  few  districts  of  good  farming 
land,  but  in  general  the  soil  is  second  rate . 

Unfortunately  for  this  county,  the  lands  at  the  junction  of  the 
Illinois  and  Missouri  with  the  Mississippi,  like  those  at  the  junc¬ 
tion  of  the  Ohio,  are  low  and  unhealthy  ;  and  in  consequence  of 
their  annual  inundations,  are  rendered  entirely  unfit  for  town 
sites.  When,  however,  this  county  increases  in  population  and 
wealth,  and  when  the  northern  and  western  parts  of  the  slate 
become  more  thickly  settled,  works  of  art  will  be  accomplished 
to  remedy  this  defect.  The  situation  of  the  village  of  Portage 
des  Sioux  is  elevated,  and  although  there  are  a  number  of  ponds 
in  the  vicinity,  these  could  be  drained  with  a  trifling  expense. 
At  this  place  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  approach  within  half 
a  mile,  and  a  canal  to  unite  them  would  be  but  the  labour  of  a 
few  months,  and  an  expense  of  a  few  thousand  dollars.  By 
looking  at  the  map,  it  will  readily  be  perceived  what  immense 
advantages  will  result  from  such  a  measure.  Besides  cutting  off 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


249 


a  distance  of  more  than  twenty  miles,  in  which  the  navigation  is 
both  difficult  and  dangerous,  it  would  open  a  commercial  empo. 
rium,  possessing  ail  the  advantages  of  being  situated  directly  at 
the  junction  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi. 

The  productions  of  St.  Charles  are  similar  to  those  of  the 
other  counties  on  the  Missouri.  As  it  contains  few  minerals,  it 
must  depend  principally  upon  its  agricultural  resources  for  its 
wealth  and  prosperity.  At  some  future  period,  perhaps  it  may 
become  a  considerable  manufacturing  county.  A  society  has 
recently  been  formed  for  the  encouragement  of  agriculture  and 
manufactures,  which  will  no  doubt  prove  eminently  useful.  An 
annual  exhibition  and  fair  is  to  be  held,  and  premiums  are  to  be 
given  to  the  most  meritorious. 

Lead  ore  has  been  found  in  small  quantities  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  town  of  St.  Charles,  but  it  is  still  doubtful  whether  it  exists 
in  any  quantity.  Gypsum,  of  a  very  good  quality,  has  been 
found  on  the  banks  of  Femme  Osage.  There  are  also  several 
isolated  sandstone  rocks  which  are  remarkable  for  their  purity, 
being  so  white  as  to  resemble  the  purest  lump  sugar.  They 
wrould  furnish  an  excellent  material  for  the  manufacture  of  glass. 

The  first  settlements  in  this  county  were  commenced  by  the 
French  at  the  town  of  St.  Charles,  in  1780.  In  1787,  the  dis¬ 
trict,  which  comprised  all  the  territory  north  of  the  Missouri, 
contained  895  inhabitants.  In  18  04,  its  population  was  esti¬ 
mated  at  about  1400  whites,  and  156  blacks.  At  the  last  enu¬ 
meration  in  1821,  the  county  of  St.  Charles,  which  is  but  a 
small  portion  of  the  original  district,  contained  4058,  including 
blacks. 

St.  Charles  county  is  attached  to  the  second  judicial  circuit ; 
sends  three  members  to  the  house  of  representatives,  and  one  to 
the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  St.  Charles,  the  present  capital 
of  the  state. 

St.  Francois  County. 

St.  Francois  county  was  erected  in  1822.  from  St.  Genevieve, 
Jefferson  and  Washington.  Its  form  is  very  irregular  :  its 
greatest  length  is  29  miles  *  greatest  breadth  28  :  area  abou 


250 


GAZETTEER  OP  MISSOURI. 


400  square  miles.  St  is  bounded  north  by  Jefferson,  east  by  St. 
Genevieve,  south  by  Madison,  and  west  by  Washington.  The 
interior  of  the  county  is  watered  by  Big  river  and  its  tributaries, 
and  by  the  sources  of  Castor  creek,  and  the  St.  Francis  river. 

St.  Francois  county  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  mine  tract, 
and  abounds  with  lead  and  iron  ore.  The  surface  is  generally 
uneven,  sometimes  hilly  ;  the  soil  is  for  the  most  part  second 
rate.  The  principal  farming  tracts  are  in  the  vicinity  of  Mur¬ 
phy’s  and  Cook’s  settlements,  both  of  which  are  situated  along 
the  main  road  leading  from  St.  Louis  to  the  Arkansas 

This  county  hav  ing  been  erected  since  the  last  enumeration, 
the  number  of  its  inhabitants  is  not  known.  It  is  attached  to 
the  third  judicial  circuit  ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of  re¬ 
presentatives,  and  with  St.  Genevieve  and  Perry,  one  to  the 
senate. 

St.  Genevieve  County. 

St  Genevieve  county ,  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  the  state,  was 
originally  very  extensive,  but,  by  recent  subdivisions,  has  been 
reduced  to  a  small  size.  At  present  its  greatest  length  is  27 
miles  ;  greatest  breadth  21  :  area  about  340  square  miles.  It  is 
'bounded  north  by  Jefferson  county,  east  by  the  state  of  Illinois 
and  Perry  county,  south  and  west  by  St.  Francois.  The  eastern 
boundary  is  washed  by  the  Mississippi  ;  the  interior  is  watered 
by  S  aline  and  Gabourie  creeks,  and  several  branches  of  Big 
river. 

The  banks  of  the  Mississippi  in  this  county  are  generally 
high,  in  some  places  presenting  a  perpendicular  wail  of  rock,  in 
others  approaching  the  river  in  the  form  of  hillocks.  There  are, 
however,  a  few  extensive  bottoms,  the  soil  of  which  is  very  pro¬ 
lific  That  on  the  Mississippi  between  St.  Genevieve  and  Nevv- 
Bourbon,  and  claimed  as  the  property  of  these  villages,  is  under 
good  cultivation  ;  it  is,  however,  Hooded  once  in  about  10  or  12 
years.  Hie  high  grounds  for  several  miles  back  are  more  or 
less  cultivated  ;  but  they  are  in  many  instances  broken,  sterile, 
and  less  productive  than  the  lands  of  some  of  the  other  counties. 
These  defects,  however,  are  more  than  counterbalanced  by  the 
great  quantities  oi  lead  which  arc  found  in  various  quarters,  and 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


25  i 


the  salines,  which  yield  a  sufficient  quantity  of  salt  for  the  con¬ 
sumption  of  the  inhabitants,  and  some  for  exportation. 

We  have  before  observed,  that  the  mineral  productions  of  this 
county  are  lead  and  salt.  44  The  latter/’  says  Mr.  Schoolcraft* 
“  is  made  on  Saline  creek,  a  stream  which  falls  into  the  Missis- 
“  sippi,  eight  miles  below  the  great  fields  of  St.  Genevieve.  The 
66  works  are  at  a  village  called  Madansburgh,  and  are  on  a  re- 
“  spectable  scale  ;  and  much  of  the  salt  consumed  in  the  interior 
“  is  the  produce  of  these  works.  The  springs  are  considered 
“  lasting,  and  the  water  strongly  impregnated  ;  and  preparations 
(i  are  now  in  forwardness  to  enlarge  and  improve  the  works  ” 

This  author  further  observes,  that  44  There  is  a  large  body  of 
“  silicious  sand  in  the  interior  of  this  county,  and  which,  from 
“  examination,  l  think  adapted  for  the  manufacture  of  Hint  glass. 
*(  It  lies  eight  miles  on  the  road  to  Potosi,  where  it  is  found  in  a 
“  cave  of  unexplored  extent.  The  sand  is  in  the  aggregated 
66  form,  i.  e.  sandstone ;  is  very  w  hite,  easily  crushed  between 

the  fingers,  and  falls  into  a  very  fine,  even  grained,  transpa- 
“  rent,  quartzosesand.  It  appears  to  me,  from  its  external  cha- 
“  racier,  to  possess  the  property  of  easy  fusibility,  one  of  the 
(t  most  desirable  qualifications  in  glass  sand  ;  and  from  an  ac- 
<4  quaintance  with  the  subject,  1  am  led  to  conclude  that  it  will 
C(  prove  a  very  valuable  material  in  the  manufacture.” 

The  agricultural  products  of  this  county  are  similar  to  those 
by  which  it  is  hounded  Tobacco  flourishes  well,  and  consider¬ 
able  quantities  are  annually  exported.  Wheat,  rye,  corn,  and 
all  other  grains,  yield  abundantly,  and  afford  a  considerable 
surplus  for  exportation. 

Hemp,  although  it  is  said  to  be  an  exotic,  here  appears  to  be 
completely  indigenous.  It  grows  to  the  height  of  8  or  10  feet, 
and  is  said  to  be  equal  in  quality  to  that  of  the  north  of  Europe  : 
it  covers  the  fields  of  the  farmers  in  spite  of  their  efforts  to  de¬ 
stroy  it.  About  1500  weight  may  be  obtained  from  the  acre.* 
Lead  and  salt  are  as  yet  the  most  valuable  articles  of  export  : 
these  are  daily  increasing  in  pr  oportion  to  the  increase  of  the  in¬ 
habitants,  and  the  demand  in  the  southern  markets.  The  first 
settlement  in  this  county  was  made  about  the  year  1763,  at  the 
present  town  of  St.  Genevieve.  Its  population  increased  slowly. 


*  Stoddard. 


252 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


until  1787,  when  an  art  was  passed  by  congress  prohibiting  sla¬ 
very  or  involuntary  servitude,  in  what  was  then  denominated  the 
northwestern  territory.  The  slave-holders  were  disposed  to 
preserve  this  kind  ot‘  property,  and  in  order  to  do  so,  abandoned 
their  ancient  possessions,  and  removed  to  the  west  side  of  the 
Mississippi.  Many  of  them  settled  at  St.  Genevieve,  and  New- 
Bourbon  ;  others,  attracted  by  the  mineral  riches,  took  up  their 
abode  in  the  interior,  and  commenced  the  working  of  lead.  In 
1790,  the  number  of  inhabitants  in  the  whole  district  of  St.  Gen¬ 
evieve,  was  about  1600,  including  blacks.  Previous  to  tbe  erec¬ 
tion  of  St.  Francois,  St  Genevieve  county,  which  is  but  a  small 
part  of  the  original  district,  contained  3181  inhabitants,  of 
which  717  were  slaves. 

This  county  is  attached  to  the  fourth  judicial  district  ;  sends 
two  members  to  the  house  of  representatives,  and  w  ith  Perry  and 
St.  Francois,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  county  seat  is  St.  Genevieve . 

St.  Louis  County. 

St .  Louis  county ,  like  the  last,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  the 
state.  It  was  formerly  the  district  of  St.  Louis,  and  was  very 
extensive  ;  by  recent  divisions,  however#  it  has  been  very  much 
reduced  in  its  size.  At  present,  its  greatest  length  is  28  miles  ; 
greatest  breadth  26  ;  area  about  500  square  miles.  It  is  bound¬ 
ed  north  by  the  county  of  St.  Charles,  east  by  the  St.  of  Illinois, 
south  by  the  county  of  Jefferson,  and  west  by  Franklin. 

This  county  is  washed  on  three  sides  by  the  Missouri,  Missis¬ 
sippi  and  Merrimack  rivers  ;  the  interior  is  abundantly  watered 
by  the  branches  of  these  streams,  running  northwardly,  east- 
vvardly  and  southwardly.  The  lands  bordering  on  the  rivers 
are  generally  very  fertile,  and  are  variegated  with  prairie  and 
woodland.  From  the  Merrimack  to  the  town  of  St.  Louis,  the 
banks  of  the  Mississippi  are  in  many  places,  high  and  rocky,  al¬ 
though  the  interior  soon  becomes  level,  and  presents  a  very  fer¬ 
tile  soil.  A  short  distance  above  St.  Louis,  commences  an  allu¬ 
vion.  which  continues'north  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri. 
This  is  low  and  subject  to  inundation,  and  does  not,  in  its  whole 
extent,  afford  one  good  town  site.  It  is  from  a  half  to  one  and 
a  half  mile  in  widMi,  and  is  covered  with  a  thick  grow  th  of  lim¬ 
ber.  This  bottom  continues  on  the  Missouri  to  Belle  Fontaine, 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


253 


four  miles  above  its  mouth.  Above  Belle  Fontaine,  on  the  Mis¬ 
souri,  the  surface  becomes  elevated  and  undulating,  and  the  soil 
in  many  places  equal  in  fertility  to  any  in  the  state.  On  the  Mer¬ 
rimack  river  are  also  some  considerable  tracts  of  good  land, 
upon  which  extensive  settlements  have  already  been  formed. 

After  ascending  from  the  river  bottoms,  we  enter  a  district  of 
country  somewhat  different  in  its  character  and  appearance.  It 
is  generally  prairie,  whose  surface  is  elevated,  undulating,  and 
occasionally  hilly:  soil  second  rate.  Of  this  description,  are 
the  lands  west  of  St.  Louis,  after  leaving  the  rich  bottoms  of  the 
Riviere  des  pores  The  most  remar  kable  appearance  of  this 
prairie-land,  is  the  number  of  funnels  or  “  sink  holes,'9  which, 
although  not  peculiar  to  this  county,  are  perhaps  more  numer¬ 
ous  here  than  elsewhere.  These  are  all  of  the  same  form,  but 
differ  in  magnitude,  some  not  being  more  than  30  yards  in  dia¬ 
meter  at  the  top  ;  others  exceeding  200.  They  are  circular,  but 
diminish  towards  the  bottom,  and  resemble  an  inverted  hollow 
cone  ;  some  of  the  lar  ge  ones  are  so  deep,  that  tall  trees,  grow¬ 
ing  at  the  bottom,  cannot  be  seen  until  we  approach  the  brink 
of  t  he  cavity.  In  many  of  these,  the  sound  of  water,  as  of  a 
considerable  stream  running  below  the  bottom  ofthe  cavity,  can 
be  distinctly  heard.  In  others,  a  subterranean  stream  is  visible, 
and  affor  ds  evidence,  that  it  has  caused  the  cavity  by  carrying 
away  the  incumbent  earth,  which  has  fallen  in  from  time  to 
time.*  In  the  same  distr  ict,  ar  e  found  numerous  caves,  some  of 
which  are  quite  extensive,  and  are  well  worthy  the  examination 
of  the  curious  and  scientific.  Several  interesting  ones  have  been 
found  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town  of  St.  Louis.  They  are  proba¬ 
bly  the  causes  of  those  appearances  above  mentioned,  as  they 
have  frequently  been  found  below  the  4  sink  holes.’ 

Numerous  ancient  works  are  found  scattered  over  this  county. 
Near  the  town  of  St.  Louis,  is  a  groupe  of  mounds,  some  of 
which  are  very  large  and  regularly  formed.  On  the  Merr  i¬ 
mack,  near  the  town  of  Fenton,  are  the  remains  of  a  fort,  with 
several  mounds  in  the  vicinity,  upon  which  are  scattered,  frag¬ 
ments  of  potter’s  ware,  heads  of  spear  s,  axes  and  arrows,  made 
of  flint  and  hornstone.  At  this  place  also  is  an  ancient  burying 
ground,  and  the  diminutive  size  of  the  graves,  and  the  skeletons 


*  Bradbury’s  Travels. 


254 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


found  in  them,  induced  a  belief  that  the  country  of  the  Merri¬ 
mack  had  been  originally  inhabited  by  a  race  of  pigmies .  But 
it  is  hardly  necessary  to  resort  to  this  theory  in  order  to  explain 
the  phenomena  which  are  here  presented. 

The  productions  of  this  county  are  similar  to  those  by  which 
it  is  bounded.  All  the  grains  flourish  here,  and  such  has  hither¬ 
to  been  the  demand  at  St.  Louis,  in  consequence  of  the  current 
of  emigration,  that  very  little  has  as  yet  been  exported.  In  the 
settlement  of  St.  Ferdinand,  wine  of  a  good  quality  is  made  fr  om 
the  native  grape  ;  and  should  this  subject  claim  the  attention 
of  agriculturalists,  it  would  no  doubt  be  a  source  of  profit. — 
The  ease  with  which  the  vine  is  cultivated,  and  the  ready  ami 
profitable  sale  of  thejuice,  are  inducements  not  to  be  overlooked. 
It  would  be  a  sub  ject  of  congratulation  if  the  use  of  this  whole¬ 
some  beverage  could  be  introduced,  in  the  place  of  distilled 
liquors. 

Iron  ore  is  abundant  in  the  western  part  of  the  county  ;  lead 
lias  also  been  found  in  small  quantities.  Potter’s  (  lay  is  abundant 
on  the  Riviere  des  Peres,  five  miles  west  of  St.  Louis,  and  a  pot¬ 
tery  lias  already  been  established.  Saw  and  grist  mills,  and  dis¬ 
tilleries,  some  of  which  are  very  extensive,  have  been  erected  in 
every  part  of  the  county.  The  first  settlement  in  this  county  was 
made  at  the  town  of  St  Louis,  in  1764,  by  a  company  of  traders. 
In  1799,  the  settlements  of  St.  Louis,  Carondalet,  St.  Ferdinand 
and  Marais  des  Liards,  contained  about  1800  inhabitants.  Ac¬ 
cording  to  Maj.  Stoddard,  the  population  of  the  district  of  St. 
Louis  in  1800,  was  2780,  including  blacks.  This  district  exten¬ 
ded  along  the  Mississippi,  from  the  Merrimack  to  the  Missouri, 
and  as  far  west  as  the  boundary  of  the  state.  In  1810,  it  con¬ 
tained  5667  inhabitants,  and  in  1821,  the  county  of  St.  Louis 
alone  contained  8190. 

This  county  is  attached  to  the  third  judicial  circuit  ;  sends 
six  members  to  the  house  of  representatives,  and  one  to  the  sen¬ 
ate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  St.  Louis. 

Washington  County. 

Washington  county  was  erected  at  an  early  period,  and  al¬ 
though  much  reduced  in  its  size,  is  still  quite  extensive.  Its 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  COUNTIES. 


255 


greatest  length  is  55  miles  ;  greatest  breadth  56  ;  area  about 
3440  square  miles.  Bounded  north  by  the  counties  of  Frank¬ 
lin  and  Jefferson,  east  by  Sr  Francois  and  Madison,  south  by 
Wav ne,  and  west  by  Franklin.  It  is  abundantly  watered  by 
Big  river  and  its  tributaries,  and  by  several  smaller  branches  of 
the  Merrimack,  St.  Francois  and  Black  rivers. 

The  lands  in  this  county  are  elevated,  undulating  and  hilly. 
They  abound  in  minerals,  and  are  much  less  fertile  than  many 
other  parts  of  the  state.  In  some  places,  bald  hills  appear,  con¬ 
sisting  of  Hint  rocks,  which  are  perfectly  sterile.  There  are, 
however,  several  fine  tracts  of  farming  land,  among  which  may 
be  mentioned  Bellevue,  Stouts,  Rich  wood's  settlements,  and  the 
Old  mines.  The  southern  banks  of  the  Merrimack,  Big  river, 
and  Fourche  a  Courtois,  also  afford  handsome  tracts  of  the  most 
fertile  bottom  lands.  Lead  ore  is  found  in  different  parts  of  this 
county,  four  or  five  feet  below  the  surface,  in  an  alluvial  deposit 
of  stiff  red  day,  which  is  often  marly,  and  contains  numerous  de¬ 
tached  masses  of  quartz,  called  by  the  inhabitants  mineral  bios - 
som  This  alluvion,  which  varies  from  10  to  20  feet  in  depth, 
rests  on  limestone,  which  appears  to  belong  to  the  transition 
class.  The  iron  ore  at  Bellevue  is  in  very  large  quantities,  and 
is  said  not  to  be  surpassed  in  richness  by  any  in  the  United 
States.  “  The  most  noted  plac  e,”  observes  Mr.  Schoolcraft, 
“  is  called  the  Iron  Mountain,  where  the  ore  is  piled  in  such 
enormous  masses,  as  to  constitute  the  entire  southern  extremity 
of  a  lofty  ridge,  which  is  5  or  600  feet  above  the  plain.  Imme¬ 
diately  at  its  base,  commences  a  tract  of  the  richest  bottom 
lands,  through  which  a  stream,  called  Chartier  creek,  mean¬ 
ders,  and  passing  round  the  western  side  of  the  mountain,  falls 
into  Cedar  creek,  a  few  miles  below.  A  seat  for  working  the 
ore,  is  situated  about  7  miles  to  the  northwest,  on  Cedar  creek, 
and  another,  sufficient  to  drive  any  number  of  forges,  eight 
miles  distant,  on  Big  river.  Within  two  miles  of  this,  on  a 
small  creek,  there  is  a  sufficient  fall,  and  plenty  of  water,  for 
establishing  an  extensive  foundery.” 

The  other  mineral  productions  of  this  county  are  zinc,  red 
chalk,  ochre,  sulphur,  alum,  salt,  and  salt-petre.  But  as  it  is 
foreign  to  my  present  purpose  to  enter  into  the  description  of 


256 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


these,  I  shall  refer  the  reader  to  the  valuable  work  above  quo¬ 
ted.  Mining  has  hitherto  been  conducted  on  a  very  small  scale, 
and  the  mere  surface  of  millions  of  lead  ore,  has  as  yet  been 
discovered.  The  want  of  capitalists  has  confined  the  operations 
of  the  inhabitants.  Within  the  last  two  years,  however,  more 
attention  has  been  paid  to  this  interesting  section  of  the  country. 
Numbers  from  all  parts  of  the  state  have  removed  thither,  and 
the  amount  of  lead  procured,  has  been  nearly  doubled.  “  New 
discoveries,”  as  they  are  called,  are  continually  making,  and 
every  days’  experience  only  strengthens  the  opinion,  that  the 
quantity  of  mineral  is  inexhaustible.  Iron  works  have  also, 
within  that  period  of  time,  been  increased,  and  promise  to  be¬ 
come  vast  sources  of  wealth.  There  are  at  this  time  in  the 
county  of  W  ashington,  upwards  of  40  lead  mines,  16  grist  mills, 
8  saw  mills,  12  distilleries,  one  of  whit  h  is  worked  by  steam,  3 
salt-petre  caves,  1  pow  der  mill,  besides  a  number  of  iron  mines, 
and  forges,  and  bloomeries. 

Washington  county,  previous  to  the  erection  of  St.  Francois* 
contained  3741  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to  the  third  judicial 
circuit  ;  sends  three  members  to  the  house  of  representatives, 
and  w  ith  Jefferson,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  seat  of  justice  is  To- 
tosi. 

Wayne  Coukty. 

* '  c  *  *  *  J 

Wayne  county  w  as  erected  from  Cape  Girardeau  and  LawT- 
rence  in  1818.  After  the  boundaries  of  the  state  were  settled, 
only  a  small  part  of  Law  rence  county  was  supposed  to  fall  with¬ 
in  the  limits  of  Missouri,  and  this  was  attached  to  Wayne.  It 
is  bounded  north  by  the  counties  of  Gasconade,  Washington 
and  Madison,  east  by  Cape  Girardeau  and  New-Madrid,  south 
by  the  territory  of  Arkansas,  and  west  by  the  w  estern  boundary 
of  the  state.  It  is  watered  by  the  St.  Francois,  Black  river  and 
its  branches,  and  by  numerous  tributaries  of  \\  bite  river  and 
the  Osage. 

The  eastern  part  of  this  county  is  level,  and  in  some  places 
marshy,  containing  some  fine  districts  of  farming  land.  In  the 
interior,  it  is  hilly  and  sterile.  Large  tracts  consist  of  bald  si- 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MISSOURI. 


257 


iecious  hills,  which  arc  scarcely  worth  the  expence  of*  survey¬ 
ing. 

The  productions  of  this  county  are  similar  to  those  of  New- 
Mad  rid  and  Cape  Girardeau.  The  settlements  are  principally 
confined  to  the  banks  of  the  St.  Francis,  upon  which  are  some 
fine  tracts  of  land. 

Wayne  county  contains  1614  inhabitants.  It  is  attached  to 
the  fourth  judicial  circuit ;  sends  one  member  to  the  house  of 
representatives,  and  with  Madison,  one  to  the  senate.  Its  coun¬ 
ty  seat  is  Greenville. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW, 


OF  THE 

TOWNS,  VILLAGES,  RIVERS,  CREEKS,  &c.  &c, 
IN  THE  STATE  OF  MISSOURI. 

AttBANGED  ALPHABETICALLY. 


Alexandria ,  the  county  seat  of  Lincoln,  is  situated  in  the  north- 
ern  part  of  township  49  north,  in  range  1,  west  of  the  5th  prin¬ 
cipal  meridian,  12  miles  west  of  the  Mississippi,  and  one  and  a 
half  west  of  the  Riviere  au  Cuivre.  It  was  laid  off  in  the  au¬ 
tumn  of  1821,  and  little  improvement  has  as  yet  been  made  on 
the  premises.  It  is  in  lat.  39°  north. 

Alexandria ,  a  town  in  Callaway  county,  situated  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Missouri,  a  mile  and  a  half  above  Cote  sans  Dessein, 
opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Osage  river. 

Apple  creek,  a  small  stream,  forming  a  part  of  the  southern 
boundary  of  Perry  county  ;  runs  a  devious  course,  and 
empties  into  the  Mississippi,  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Big 
Muddy  river.  The  lands  on  this  stream  are  very  fertile. 

Arrow  creek,  a  small  stream,  rises  in  a  prairie,  and  running 
a  southwest  course,  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the  north 
side,  200  miles  above  its  mouth.  Near  the  mouth  of  this  creek 
is  Arrow  Rock,  and  the  Prairie  of  Arrows . 

Buinbridgc ,  a  town  of  Cape  Girardeau  county,  situated  on  the 
hank  of  the  Mississippi,  12  miles  above  the  town  of  Cape  Girar¬ 
deau,  14  miles  east  of  Jackson,  it  contains  as  yet  but  few  houses, 
although  its  situation  is  somewhat  favourable.  The  road  from 
Kentucky  and  Illinois  to  the  White  river  and  Arkansas  passes 
through  it :  which  from  the  peculiar  situation  of  the  Mississippi 


260 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


bottoms,  is  an  advantage  it  possesses  over  the  other  towns  be¬ 
tween  it,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio. 

Bates 9  creek  or  fork ,  a  trifling  stream  of  Washington  county, 
emptying  into  Mineral  Fork  of  Big  river.  • 

Bayou  Pemisco ,  a  small  stream,  runs  an  east  course,  and  emp¬ 
ties  into  the  Mississippi  near  Ncw-Madrid. 

Bear  creek, a  small  stream,  runs  a  southeast  course  and  falls 
into  the  Mississippi,  near  Hannibal,  opposite  section  18  of  town¬ 
ship  4  south,  in  range  8,  west  of  the  4th  principal  meridian. 

Belle  Fontaine ,  an  American  garrison  in  St.  Iiouis  county,  on 
the  south  side  of  the  Missouri,  four  miles  above  its  junction  with 
the  Mississippi. 

Bellevue ,  a  rich  and  flourishing  settlement  in  Washington 
county,  situated  10  miles  southwest  of  Potosi.  It  contains  a 
large  body  of  first  rate  farming  land,  and  its  population  is  rap¬ 
idly  increasing.  Iron  and  lead  ore  is  very  abundant  in  the  vi¬ 
cinity. 

Big  Bone ,  a  small  stream,  running  a  northerly  course,  and 
emptying  into  the  Osage  river  on  the  right  side.  On  this 
stream  are  found  mammoth  bones.  See  Gasconade  river . 

Big  Bonne-Femme  river,  a  considerable  stream,  rises  in  Cha¬ 
riton  county,  and  running  through  the  interior  of  Howard,  falls 
into  the  Missouri  about.six  miles  below  Franklin.  Boone’s  salt 
works  are  on  the  banks  of  this  stream. 

Big  Muddy  river ,  a  considerable  stream  of  Callaway  county  , 
runs  a  southerly  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri,  in  town¬ 
ship  45  north,  in  range  8,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian,  20 
miles  above  the  junction  of  the  Gasconade  river.  It  is  about  50 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  in  the  vicinity  of  which,  a  fertile  allu¬ 
vion  stretches  itself  along  the  banks  of  the  Missouri.  This 
stream  is  well  calculated  for  mills  and  other  machinery. 

Big  north  forth  of  White  river ,  rises  in  the  range  of  hills  which 
extends  through  the  southwestern  part  of  the  state,  and  falls  into 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  261 

0 

*  At 

White  river,  below  Little  North  Fork.  Very  little  is  as  yet 
known  of  this  stream,  or  the  lands  bordering  on  it. 

Big  river,  (sometimes  called  Grand  river,')  rises  in  the  south¬ 
ern  part  of  the  mine  country,  and  running  a  devious  northerly 
course  through  the  counties  of  Washington,  St.  Francois  and 
Jefferson,  falls  into  the  Merrimack,  in  township  43  north,  in 
range  4,  east  of  the  5th  principal  meridian,  30  miles  above  its 
junction  with  the  Mississippi.  A  great  portion  of  the  lands  on 
its  banks  is  very  fertile,  and  presents  the  most  beautiful  situations 
for  farms.  A  short  distance  back  from  the  river,  the  surface 
becomes  high  and  undulating,  and  the  soil  is  in  many  places  ste¬ 
rile.  To  comp  ensate  for  this,  it  abounds  with  iron  and  lead  ore 
of  the  best  quality.  In  a  grave  which  was  opened  on  the  banks 
of  this  stream,  about  30  miles  from  the  Merrimack,  there  was  a 
skeleton  eight  feet  in  length.  It  was  accompanied  byfsome  tri¬ 
fling  articles  of  pottery,  pipes  and  glass  beads. 

Big  Bock  creek  rises  in  Cooper ;  runs  an  easterly  course 
through  the  northern  part  of  this  and  the  adjoining  county,  and 
falls  into  the  Missouri  on  the  right  side,  a  short  distance  above 
the  mouth  of  Little  Bonne-femme. 

Blackbird  creek ,  a  small  stream  ;  runs  a  southerly  course  into 
the  Missouri  on  the  left  side,  210  miles  above  its  junction  with 
the  Mississippi.  Opposite  to  the  mouth  of  this  creek,  is  an  isl¬ 
and  and  a  prairie,  which  encloses  a  small  lake. 

Black  river,  a  large  stream  of  the  southern  part  of  the  state, 
runs  a  southerly  course  through  the  county  of  Wayne,  and  af¬ 
ter  receiving  the  Currents,  Eleven  Point,  Spring  and  Strawberry 
rivers,  and  numerous  other  tributaries,  falls  into  White  river, 
near  lat.  35°  30  north.  Only  a  small  part  of  this  river  is  within 
the  present  boundary  of  this  state,  and  we  are  as  yet  but  par¬ 
tially  acquainted  with  its  geography. 

Blue  Water  river,  a  considerable  stream  of  Lillard  county, 
runs  a  northerly  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri,  above 
Fort  Osage,  and  within  10  mil  s  of  the  western  boundary  line 
of  the  state.  A  few  miles  up  this  stream,  gypsum  is  very 


26‘i  GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 

abundant.  It  is  of  a  good  quality,  and  large  quantities  are 
said  to  be  procured  for  exportation.  This  stream  is  about  30 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  At  this  place,  the  Missouri  is  confin¬ 
ed  within  a  narrow  bed,  and  the  current  still  more  so  by  counter¬ 
currents  or  eddies  on  one  side,  and  a  high  bank  on  the  other. 

Blufftnii ,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Ray  county,  situated  about  two 
miles  north  of  the  Missouri  river,  in  township  51  north,  in  range 
28,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian.  As  it  has  but  recently 
been  laid  out,  few  improvements  have  as  yet  been  made. 

Bois -brute  bottom,  (Burnt  woods)  a  fertile  alluvion,  extending 
along  the  Mississippi,  in  Perry  county.  It  is  about  15  miles  in 
length,  and  is  one  of  the  most  noted  bodies  of  farming  land  in 
the  state.  It  is  covered  with  the  heaviest  growth  of  trees, 
such  as  are  peculiar  to  the  richest  bottoms.  The  settle¬ 
ment  on  it  is  flourishing,  and  is  daily  increasing  in  population. 
According  to  Mr.  Schoolcraft,  fuller’s  earth  forms  one  of  the 
lower  strata  of  this  bottom,  but  can  only  be  seen  at  low  water. 

Bon- Homme  creek ,  a  small  stream,  runs  a  north  course 
through  the  county  of  St.  Louis,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri 
about  40  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi.  It 
waters  a  very  fertile  district  of  farming  land,  which  is  held 
under  confirmed  Spanish  grants.  The  bluffs  of  the  creek 
consist  principally  of  limestone,  which  affords  good  lime.  This 
stream  is  well  calculated  for  mills  and  other  machinery,  as  it  is 
seldom  destitute  of  water,  even  in  the  driest  seasons.  Chester¬ 
field,  a  flourishing  town,  is  situated  one  mile  above  its  mouth. 
The  settlements  on  this  creek  were  commenced  at  an  early  pe¬ 
riod,  and  have  been  continually  increasing.  The  richness  of  the 
land,  its  vicinity  to  the  Missouri,  the  abundance  of  fine  springs 
and  streams,  and  the  immense  quantity  of  excellent  timber,  are 
some  of  the  advantages  which  have  produced  its  present  pros¬ 
perity.  On  Bon-llomme  creek  the  remains  of  several  Indians 
have  been  found.  The  bones  were  almost  entirely  decayed  ;  but 
the  implements  which  were  buried  with  them,  arc  generally  in 
a  state  of  preservation.  The  Rev.  Mi*.  Giddings,  of  St.  Louis, 
has  in  his  possession  a  small  clay  vessel,  found  in  one  of  these 
graves:  It  is  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  and  from  its  hard-  ' 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  268 

ness,  appears  to  have  been  well  baked.  A  number  of  pipes,  and 
implements  of  various  kinds,  have  also  been  found. 

Boonville ,  a  flourishing  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of 
Cooper  county,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Missouri,  in  township  49 
north,  in  range  17,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian,  opposite 
the  town  of  Franklin.  It  is  situated  on  an  elevated  rocky  shore, 
which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  river  for  several  miles,  and 
affords  a  good  harbour  for  boats.  A  fertile  country  lies  south, 
east,  and  west ;  it  is  handsomely  interspersed  with  prairie  and 
timber,  and  intersected  with  fine  str  eams  of  water. 

Boonville  is  in  latitude  38°  55'  north;  about  150  miles  west 
of  St.  Charles.  It  contains  upwards  of  1000  inhabitants. 

Bourbense  river ,  (or  Muddy y )  a  small  stream,  running  a  north¬ 
easterly  course  through  Franklin  county,  and  emptying  into  the 
Merrimack  on  the  right  side.  The  lands  on  its  banks  are 
elevated,  broken,  and  sometimes  hilly. 

j Bryan’s  creek ,  runs  an  easterly  course  through  the  northern 
part  of  Lincoln  county,  and  empties  into  the  Mississippi. 

Buck-eye  river,  a  tributary  of  the  Osage,  emptying  in  from 
the  south. 

Buffaloe  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Pike  county,  runs  a  north¬ 
easterly  course,  and  falls  into  the  Mississippi  two  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  Salt  river.  Extensive  salt-works  are  in  operation 
on  the  banks  of  this  stream,  near  Louisiana.  There  are  also  the 
ruins  of  a  number  of  ancient  forts,  similar  to  those  on  the  Noyer 
creek  and  Osage  river.  The  timber  on  the  banks  of  Buffaloe, 
is  hackberry,  cotton  wood,  and  ash  ;  the  soil  is  generally  fertile, 
and  the  surface  level.  From  this  creek  to  Salt  river,  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  Mississippi  Abounded  by  high  rocky  cliffs,  covered 
with  cedar. 

Buffaloe  river,  ( Riviere  au  Bceuf,  Fr.)  a  considerable  stream, 
rises  in  the  county  of  Gasconade,  and  running  from  thence 
through  the  northwest  part  of  Franklin,  empties  into  the  Mis¬ 
souri  in  township  44  north,  in  range  2,  west  of  the  5th  principal 
meridian,  a  few  miles  above  Charctte  river.  It  waters  a  district 


264 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


of  country  in  some  places  high,  hilly,  and  sterile  ;  in  others  low, 
level,  and  fertile.  Newport,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Franklin,  is 
situated  at  its  junction  with  the  Missouri.  Opposite  this  place 
is  Butfaloe  island,  which  is  very  extensive,  and  contains  several 
fine  plantations. 

Byrd’s  settlement ,  a  flourishing  settlement  in  Cape  Girardeau 
county,  a  few  miles  west  of  the  Mississippi.  The  improvements 
here  arc  very  extensive. 

Caledonia ,  a  town  recently  laid  off*  in  Bellevue  township, 
Washington  county,  12  miles  west  of  Potosi.  It  is  in  a  flourish¬ 
ing  situation,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  body  of  the  richest  farming 
land. 

Calumet  creek,  a  small  stream  of  Pike  county,  runs  a  north¬ 
easterly  course,  and  falls  into  the  Mississippi  opposite  the  lower 
junction  of  Chenail-ecarte.  f 

Cape  Girardeau ,  a  post  town,  and  formerly  the  seat  of  justice 
of  the  county,  situated  on  the  Mississippi,  45  miles  above  the 
junction  of  the  Ohio.  It  contains  50  or  60  houses,  among  which 
are  several  stores,  and  a  post-office.  The  site  is  elevated,  and 
commands  a  fine  prospect  of  the  river  for  several  miles.  It  is 
surrounded  by  a  fertile  country,  which  is  under  cultivation. 
The  inhabitants  are  principally  French  and  Germans.  Al¬ 
though  this  place  possesses  many  advantages,  it  appears  at 
present  to  be  rather  declining.  Twelve  miles  west  is  Jackson, 
the  present  seat  of  justice  of  the  county. 

Cape  Cinq-hommes  creek ,  a  trifling  stream,  falls  into  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi  a  short  distance  below  Bois-brule  bottom.  Near  the 
mouth  of  this  creek  the  Mississippi  makes  a  sudden  turn  to  the 
.east,  and  being  a  rocky  shore,  the  water  is  thrown  against  it 
with  great  violence,  and  forms  what  is  called  the  Great  eddy. 
This  place  is  called  Cape  Cinq-hommes ,  and  is  very  dangerous, 
unless  avoided  in  time.  Several  boats  have  been  foundered  here, 
but  it  has  generally  been  owing  to  the  negligence  of  their  cap¬ 
tains. 

Cardinal  river ,  a  small  tributary  of  the  Osage,  emptying  iu 
from  the  south. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  265 

Carondelet,  a  small  village,  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Mississippi,  five  miles  south  of  the  town  of  St.  Louis.  It  is 
regularly  laid  out  in  squares  of  300  feet  on  each  side,  the  houses 
standing  towards  the  streets,  and  the  interior  of  the  area  com¬ 
posed  of  gardens  and  orchards.  “  To  this,  as  well  as  the  other 
villages,  was  appropriated  a  large  space  of  ground,  and  fenced 
in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram.  In  this  space,  allotments  are 
laid  out,  corresponding  in  number  and  relative  magnitude  with 
the  towu  lots.  These  allotments  extend  the  whole  length  of  the 
field  ;  but  their  magnitude  is  determined  by  their  breadth,  which 
is  marked  on  one  of  the  fences  ;  being  once,  or  once  and  a  half, 
or  twice,  &c.  the  length  of  a  side  of  a  square  arpent  of  land.  In 
the  common  fields  belonging  to  Carondelet,  these  narrow  strips 
are  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length.  Besides  the  appro¬ 
priation  for  cultivation,  an  extensive  tract  was  laid  out  as  a  fo¬ 
rest  or  demesne,  from  which  each  individual  cuts  what  wood  he 
thinks  proper.  All  these  appropriations  have  been  ratified  by 
the  commissioners  appointed  by  the  government  since  the  ces¬ 
sion  of  Louisiana,  to  examine  into  claims.”* 

This  village  is  principally  inhabited  by  French  and  Spaniards, 
who  still  preserve  their  own  manners  and  customs.  It  possesses 
few  commercial  advantages  ;  and  in  consequence  of  the  vicinity 
of  St.  Louis,  few  Americans  have  trespassed  on  their  repose. 
The  inhabitants  are  in  general  indolent  and  inactive,  but  quiet 
and  peaceable.  They  live  upon  the  produce  of  their  gardens 
and  common  fields,  and  sometimes  by  hunting  and  fishing.  In 
winter  they  supply  St.  Louis  with  wood,  for  which  they  charge 
an  exorbitant  price,  in  which,  on  account  of  the  vast  increase  of 
inhabitants,  they  have  been  heretofore  indulged. 

Carondelet  was  first  settled  shortly  after  1704.  For  a  few 
years  it  increased  rapidly  ;  but  it  soon  became  stationary,  and 
has  remained  so  ever  since.  In  1799,  it  contained  about  200 
inhabitants  :  since  this  time  its  increase  has  been  very  trifling. 

Castor  creek ,  a  considerable  stream,  runs  a  southerly  course 
through  the  counties  of  Madison  and  Wayne,  and  empties  into 
the  St.  Francis  river  on  the  left  side.  It  waters  a  district  of 
country  which  is  in  some  places  level  and  fertile,  in  others  hillj 
and  barren. 

*  Bradbury’s  Travels. 

34 


266 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


Cave  creek,  a  small  stream  of  Wayne  county,  falls  into  Cur¬ 
rents  river.  Its  name  is  derived  from  the  number  of  caves  found 
on  its  banks.  The  largest  and  most  interesting  that  have  as 
yet  been  discovered,  are  situated  80  or  90  miles  southwest  of 
Totosi.  Several  of  them  abound  with  stalactites  and  stalagmites, 
the  former  of  which  are  “  found  in  concretions  resembling  icic¬ 
les  hanging  from  the  roof,  or  in  columns  reaching  to  the  floor  : 
some  specimens  are  translucent,  and  the  cause  which  has  pro¬ 
duced  them  is  removed,  the  dropping  has  ceased,  and  the  caves 
are  generally  dry,  affording  now  an  earth  richly  impregnated 
with  salt-petre  ;  and  this  salt  is  found  effloresced  on  the  rocks, 
very  fine  and  white.”  ( Schoolcraft. ) 

A  stratum  of  blue  and  white  striped  jasper,  occurs  in  the  se¬ 
condary  limestone,  which  forms  the  bed  of  this  stream. 

Cedar  creek,  a  small  branch  of  Big  river. 

Cedar  creek,  a  considerable  stream,  forms  the  boundary  between 
Callaway  and  Boone  counties.  It  holds  a  devious  southerly 
course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the  left  side,  in  town¬ 
ship  45  north,  in  range  11,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian, 
12  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Osage. 

This  stream  has  received  its  present  name  from  the  growth  of 
cedar  near  its  mouth.  At  this  place,  also,  the  north  bank  of  the 
Missouri  assumes  a  most  interesting  appearance  :  it  consists  of 
a  range  of  rocks,  nearly  perpendicular,  from  150  to  300  feet 
high.  They  are  composed  of  very  white  limestone,  and  their 
summits  are  covered  to  the  edge  with  cedaw  “  The  length  of 
this  range  is  about  six  miles,  and  at  the  upper  end  they  assume 
a  semicircular  form.  They  are  called  the  Manitou  rocks,  a  name 
given  to  them  by  the  Indians,  who  often  apply  this  term,  Mani¬ 
tou,  to  uncommon  or  singular  productions  of  nature,  which  they 
highly  venerate.*  On  or  near  these  Manitous,  they  chiefly  de¬ 
posit  their  offerings  to  the  Great  Spirit ,  or  Father  of  Life.  This 
lias  caused  some  to  believe  that  these  Manitous  are  the  objects 
that  they  worship  ;  hut  that  opinion  is  erroneous.  The  Indians 
believe  that  the  Great  Spirit  either  inhabits,  or  frequently  visits 


*  Hence  this  stream  was  formerly,  and  is  still  by  many  called  Manitou  met;  but  Cedar  is  the 
name  adopted  by  the  legislature  in  the  boundaries  of  Callaway  county,  and  ought  to  be  preserved* 
as  there  is  a  Manitov.  emptying  into  the  Missouri  above. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  267 

these  manifestations  of  his  power ;  and  that  offerings  deposited 
there,  will  sooner  attract  his  notice,  and  gain  his  auspices,  than 
in  any  other  place.  These  offerings  are  propitiatory,  either  for 
success  in  war,  or  in  hunting  ;  and  consist  of  various  articles,  of 
which  the  feathers  of  the,  war  eagle  are  in  the  greatest  estima¬ 
tion.  On  these  rocks,  several  rude  figures  have  been  drawn  by 
the  Indians,  with  red  paint.  They  are  chiefly  in  imitation  of 
buffaloe,  deer,  &c.  One  of  these,  according  with  their  idea  of 
the  Great  Spirit,  is  not  unlike  our  common  representation  of  the 
devil.’’  C  Bradbury. ) 

Chariton ,  a  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Chariton 
county,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Missouri,  at  the  junction  of  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  in  township  53  north,  and  range  17,  west 
of  the  5th  principal  meridian.  It  is  situated  on  an  alluvion, 
based  on  a  limestone  rock,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  large  district 
of  choice  farming  land.  Here  is  an  excellent  harbour,  and  land¬ 
ing  for  boats  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  In  consequence  of  some 
ponds  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town,  it  is  subject  to  summer  and 
autumnal  fevers  ;  but  they  arc,  however,  seldom  fatal. 

This  place  is  so  favourably  situated  at  thejunction  of  the  three 
navigable  streams,  that  it  bids  fair  to  become  of  considerable 
importance  as  a  commercial  depot.  It  is  also  surrounded  by  a 
fertile  district  of  country,  whose  agricultural  resources  are  be¬ 
coming  more  and  more  important.  After  this  town  was  laid  out, 
it  increased  with  a  rapidity  almost  unexampled,  and  in  a  short 
time  50  or  60  houses  were  built.  For  the  last  two  years,  how¬ 
ever,  it  has  been  less  flourishing,  and  its  increase  has  been  very 
trifling.  This  has  rather  been  owing  to  the  general  stagnation 
of  business,  than  to  any  particular  or  local  cause. 

Chariton  is  in  latitude  39°  10'  north  ;  24  miles  northwest  of 
Franklin,  and  150  nearly  northwest  of  St.  Charles. 

Chariton  rivers.  These  two  streams  empty  into  the  Missouri 
together,  and  are  distinguished  from  each  other  by  the  names  of 
Grand  and  Little  Chariton. 

Charrette  creek ,  a  beautiful  stream  of  Montgomery  county, 
runs  a  southerly  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the 
left  side,  in  township  45  north,  in  range  U  west  of  the  5th  prin- 


268 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


cipal  meridian,  two  or  three  miles  below  the  town  of  Newport. 
The  lands  on  this  stream  are  generally  fertile.  At  its  junction 
with  the  Missouri  is  Charrette  village. 

Charrette  village,  at  the  mouth  of  Charrette  creek,  contains 
40  or  50  families,  which  are  principally  French.  It  lies  in  a 
bend  of  the  Missouri ;  and  opposite  to  it  is  a  large  island,  which 
is  very  fertile.  The  distance  from  this  place  to  St.  Charles,  is 
about  40  miles. 

Chartier  creek ,  a  small  stream,  meanders  through  Bellevue, 
Washington  county,  and  falls  into  Cedar  creek,  a  few  miles  be¬ 
low  the  Iron  mountain.  The  lands  on  the  banks  of  this  stream 
are  noted  for  their  fertilitv. 

Chepousa  river ,  a  considerable  stream,  rises  in  a  lake  in  the 
western  part  of  Ncw-Madrid  county,  and  running  an  easterly 
course,  falls  into  the  Mississippi,  a  short  distance  above  the  town 
of  the  same  name.  The  mouth  of  this  stream  affords  a  good 
harbour  for  boats. 

Chesterfield ,  a  post  town  in  St.  Louis  county,  situated  on  Bon- 
homme  creek,  a  mile  above  its  junction  with  the  Missouri.  It 
was  laid  out  in  1818,  and  is  at  present  in  a  state  of  improvement. 
Its  situation  is  high,  and  tolerably  healthy.  There  is  a  suffi¬ 
ciency  of  timber  in  the  immediate  vicinity  ;  and  the  lands,  par¬ 
ticularly  on  the  bottoms  of  the  Missouri  and  Bon-homme,  are 
very  fertile.  The  town  is  supplied  by  a  number  of  fine  springs, 
and  water  can  always  be  obtained  by  digging  about  30  feet, 
without  meeting  a  stratum  of  rock,  a  circumstance  so  common 
in  this  county.  Limestone,  however,  is  abundant  on  Bon-homme 
creek,  a  short  distance  from  the  town,  of  which  lime  of  a  very 
fine  quality  is  burnt.  Good  brick  clay  is  also  abundant. 

City  of  Jefferson,  the  present  seat  of  government  of  the  state, 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  Wier’s  creek,  in  Cole  county.  The 
following  sections  of  land  were  selected  by  the  commissioners 
appointed  for  that  purpose,  viz  :  In  the  fractional  township  44 
north,  (south  of  the  Missouri,)  in  range  11,  west  of  the  4th  prin¬ 
cipal  meridian,  the  fractional  sections  6,  f  and  8  ;  the  entire 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  269 

sections  17  and  18,  and  so  much  of  the  north  part  of  sections  19 
and  20,  as  will  make  four  sections. 

By  an  act  of  the  legislature  passed  11th  of  January,  1822,  the 
commissioners  appointed  to  select  a  permanent  seat  of  govern¬ 
ment,  were  directed  to  meet  on  the  first  Monday  of  the  ensuing 
March,  on  the  land  selected  as  above,  and  proceed  immediately 
to  lay  out  a  town  thereon,  to  contain  at  least  one  thousand  lots, 
and  in  blocks  or  squares  of  such  size  and  dimensions  as  a  ma¬ 
jority  of  them  shall  agree  ;  and  the  principal  street  of  said  town 
shall  not  be  less  than  one  hundred,  nor  more  than  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  wide  ;  the  other  streets  not  less  than  eighty  feet, 
and  the  alleys  twenty  feet  wide.  The  remaining  part  of  the  four 
sections  are  to  be  laid  into  lots  of  five,  ten,  twenty,  and  forty 
acres,  and  divided  by  alleys,  so  as  to  secure  to  each  lot  free  and 
open  communication  with  the  said  town. 

This  act  also  provides,  that  the  said  commissioners  shall  re¬ 
port  to  the  next  session  of  the  general  assembly,  a  plan  of  said 
town,  and  of  the  other  lots  laid  off  as  aforesaid  ;  and  shall,  on 
the  first  Monday  of  May  in  the  year  1823,  proceed  to  sell  all  the 
town  lots  and  out  lots  on  the  premises,  to  the  highest  bidder,  for 
equal  instalments,  one  third  payable  on  the  first  day  of  May, 
and  the  remaining  two  thirds  in  two  equal  annual  instalments, 
except  such  lots  as  are  reserved  for  the  public  use. 

Clarksville ,  a  post  town  in  Pike  county,  situated  on  the  Missis¬ 
sippi,  near  the  mouth  of  Calumet  creek,  in  township  53  north,  in 
range  1,  east  of  the  5th  principal  meridian.  It  contains  several 
houses  and  stores,  and  is  at  present  in  a  flourishing  condition. 

Columbia ,  a  town  in  St.  Louis  county,  situated  near  the  junc¬ 
tion  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi.  It  need  scarcely  be  obser¬ 
ved,  that  little  or  no  improvement  has  as  yet  been  made  here, 
and  the  town  exists  only  on  paper,  for  the  purposes  of  specula¬ 
tion.  The  lands  in  the  vicinity  are  low,  and  subject  to  inunda¬ 
tion,  and  consequently  this  place  can  never  become  of  much  im¬ 
portance.  A  ferry  has  been  established  across  the  Mississippi, 
a  short  distance  below  the  town. 

Cohmbia ,  a  post  town,  and  the  county  scat  of  Boone.  Its  situ- 


270 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


ation  is  low,  although  rarely  subject  to  inundation.  It  is  sur¬ 
rounded  on  all  sides  by  bodies  of  the  most  fertile  land. 

Cook's  Settlement ,  in  St.  Francois  county,  extends  along  the 
main  road  from  St.  Louis  to  Arkansas,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
nourishing  in  the  state. 

Cole  sans  Bessein,  ( Hill  without  design, J :a  post  town  in  Calla¬ 
way  county,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Missouri,  opposite  the  mouth 
of  the  Osage.  Its  situation  is  very  eligible,  and  it  must  in  time 
become  a  place  of  some  importance.  The  fertility  of  the  sur¬ 
rounding  country  cannot  be  surpassed.  “  It  is  here,”  observes 
Mr.  Brackenridge,  in  his  Journal  of  a  Voyage  up  the  Missouri, 
“  that  we  met  with  the  first  appearance  of  prairie  on  the  Mis¬ 
souri,  but  it  is  handsomely  mixed  with  woodland.  The  wooded 
country  on  the  northeast  extends  at  least  30  miles,  as  far  up  as 
this  place,  and  not  less  than  15  on  the  other  side.  The  name  is 
given  to  this  place  from  the  circumstance  of  a  single  detached 
hill  filled  with  limestone,  standing  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
about  600  yards  long,  and  very  narrow.  The  village  has  been 
established  about  three  years  ;  there  are  thirteen  French  fami¬ 
lies,  and  two  or  three  of  Indians.  They  have  handsome  fields 
in  the  prairies,  but  the  greater  part  of  their  time  is  spent  in  hun¬ 
ting.  From  their  eager  enquiries  after  merchandize,  I  perceived 
we  were  already  remote  from  the  settlements.” 

Since  the  above  was  written,  numerous  and  extensive  settle¬ 
ments  have  been  formed  west  of  this,  and  Cote  sans  Dessein  is 
comparatively  in  the  interior.  Its  fine  situation,  and  other  nu¬ 
merous  advantages,  have  contributed  much  to  its  improvement. 
From  the  Osage,  it  is  supplied  w  ith  lumber,  and  the  several  oth¬ 
er  productions  of  the  country  bordering  on  that  stream. 

Creve  Coeur  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  St.  Louis  county,  rises  in 
a  lake  of  the  same  name,  and  running  a  devious  course,  empties 
into  the  Missouri,  a  short  distance  below  Bon-homme.  It  cros¬ 
ses  the  Bon-homme  road,  18  miles  west  of  St.  Louis.  The  lands 
on  this  stream  are  fertile,  and  generally  well  adapted  for  culti¬ 
vation.  In  some  places,  however,  the  bottoms  are  low,  and  sub¬ 
ject  to  inundation,  which  renders  them  very  unhealthy.  In  oth¬ 
ers,  they  are  very  heavily  timbered.  All  the  lands  on  this  creek 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


271 

are  held  by  Spanish  grants,  which  have  been  confirmed.  The 
settlements  on  it  are  among  the  oldest  in  the  country. 

The  general  course  of  this  creek  is  northwest.  About  two 
miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Missouri,  it  forms  Lake  Creve 
Cceur,  which  abounds  with  fish  ;  but  in  the  summer  season,  in 
consequence  ofits  stagnation,  it  is  a  fruitful  source  of  disease. 

Cuivre  river ,  (Riviere  au  Cuivre,  Fr.)  a  fine  stream,  rises 
in  Pike  county,  runs  a  southeasterly  course  through  Lincoln, 
and  after  receiving  Eagle  Fork,  and  several  other  tributa¬ 
ries,  empties  into  the  Mississippi,  near  the  northern  part  of  town¬ 
ship  48  north,  in  range  3,  east  of  the  5th  principal  meridian — . 
It  is  navigable  for  some  distance,  and  affords  several  fine  mill- 
seats.  Several  towns  and  flourishing  settlements  have  already 
sprung  up  on  its  banks.  The  country  which  it  waters,  is  cele¬ 
brated  for  its  fertility  and  salubrity,  and  on  this  account  is  rap¬ 
idly  increasing  in  population. 

Cupboard  creek ,  runs  a  southerly  course,  and  empties  into  the 
Missouri  on  the  left  side,  135  miles  above  its  junction  with  the 
Mississippi.  Its  takes  its  name  from  the  singular  appearance 
of  a  rock  at  its  mouth. 

Currents  river ,  a  considerable  stream,  empties  into  Black  riv¬ 
er  on  the  right  side,  above  Fourche  a  Thomas,  (Thomas’  fork.) 

The  water  of  this  stream  is  very  transparent ;  before  it  joins 
Black  River,  it  receives  Little  Black. 

Dardenne  river ,  a  small  stream  of  St.  Charles  county,  runs  a 
northeast  course,  and  empties  into  the  Mississippi,  six  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois.  The  lands  on  its  banks  are  ge¬ 
nerally  fertile,  and  sometimes  heavily  timbered.  This  stream 
affords  numerous  fine  mill-seats. 

Dry  creek ,  a  small  stream,  falls jnto  Big  river  on  the  right 
side,  near  its  junction  with  the  Merrimack.  McKane’s  lead 
mine  is  situated  on  it. 

Du-liois  creek ,  (Wood  creek,)  a  small  stream  of  Franklin 
county,  runs  a  northwest  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri 


272 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI* 


on  the  right  side,  in  township  44  north,  in  range  1,  cast  of  the 
5th  principal  meridian. 

Eagle  fork ,  a  small  stream,  runs  an  easterly  course,  and  emp¬ 
ties  into  Cuivre  river  on  the  right  side,  in  township  48  north,  in 
range  1,  east  of  the  5th  principal  meridian.  It  forms  a  part  of 
the  boundary  between  the  counties  of  Lincoln  and  St.  Charles. 
The  lands  on  this  stream  are  generally  fertile  and  thickly  set¬ 
tled. 

East  fork  of  the  Osage,  runs  a  southwest  course,  and  empties 
in  on  the  l  ight  side. 

Eleven  Point  river ,  a  considerable  branch  of  Black  river. 

Elizabeth,  the  scat  of  justice  of  Callaway  county,  laid  out  in 
1821,  in  township’47  north,  in  range  9,  west  of  the  5th  principal 
meridian,  between  Big  and  Little  Muddy  rivers.  There  is  a 
considerable  settlement  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  in  lat.  38°  45'  N. 
14  miles  northeast  of  Cote  sans  Dessein,  and  75  due  west  of 
St.  Charles. 

Establishment  creek ,  a  small  stream  emptying  into  the  Missis¬ 
sippi,  in  St.  Genevieve  county.  Chalcedony  and  onyx  are  found 
in  abundance  on  tiie  west  side  of  this  creek.  (Schoolcraft.) 

P'abba  creek,  a  small  stream  of  Ralls  county,  runs  a  southeast 
course,  and  after  receiving  Little  Fabba,  empties  into  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  in  township  59  north,  in  range  5,  west  of  the  5th  prin¬ 
cipal  meridian. 

Femme  Osage,  a  fine  stream  of  St.  Charles  county,  runs  a 
southeast  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri,  forty  miles 
above  its  mouth,  in  township  45  north,  in  range  3,  east  of  the  5th 
principal  meridian.  Its  banks  are  in  general  broken,  and  are 
said  to  contain  large  quantities  of  gypsum.  This  stream  i9  thir¬ 
ty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  where  there  is  a  small  settlement. 

Fenton ,  a  town  laid  out  a  few  years  since,  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Merrimack  river,  15  miles  southwest  of  the  town  of  St.  Lou¬ 
is,  and  11,  west  of  the  Mississippi  river.  Although  it  possesses 
several  advantages,  it  is  doubtful  whether  it  will  become  of  much 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  273 

consequence.  Indeed,  this  town  is  as  yet  but  merely  laid  out  on 
paper,  and  but  for  the  interesting  antiquities  in  the  vicinity, 
would  never  have  been  noticed. 

The  plantation  of  Mr.  Long,  upon  which  Fenton  is  intended 
to  be  built,  contains  several  mounds,  similar  in  appearance  to 
those  found  near  St.  Louis  and  elsewhere,  in  the  valley  of  the 
Mississippi.  They  are,  however,  generally  of  a  smaller  size  ; 
bur,  like  them,  are  covered  with  fragments  of  ancient  potter’s 
ware,  spear  and  arrow  heads.  From  the  ruins,  also,  it  appears 
that  there  was  once  a  fort  built,  probably  garrisoned,  and  per¬ 
haps  defended  arid  lost,  by  that  unknown  race  of  beings,  who 
have  left  behind  them  so  many  proofs  of  their  industry,  their  ci¬ 
vilization,  and  their  knowledge  of  the  arts.  On  a  side  hill,  about 
lOOjards  north,  is  a  burying  ground,  which  strengthens  the 
opinion  that  there  was  a  permanent  settlement  in  the  vicinity — 
A  few  years  since  a  number  of  these  graves  were  opened  by  tiic 
present  proprietor  of  the  land.  In  each  of  them  were  found  six 
rude  pieces  of  stone,  which  were  arranged  in  the  manner,  ami 
served  the  purpose  of  a  coffin,  in  many  instances,  the  head  and 
foot-stones  projected  above  the  surface  of  tin  ground,  but  I  be¬ 
lieve  in  no  case  contained  any  inscription.  The  coffins  were  uni¬ 
formly  from  23  to  50  inches  in  length.  A  few  of  them  contain¬ 
ed  imperfect  skeletons,  but  the  rest  only  exhibited  the  proof,  that 
u  dust  had  returned  to  dust.” 

The  diminutive  size  of  the  graves  excited  the  attention  of  all 

\ 

who  visited  this  cemetery,  and  the  probable  cause  became  the 
subject  of  much  dispute.  Some  considered  it  as  positive  proof 
of  the  existence  of  a  race  of  pigmies,  while  others,  with  more 
justice,  attributed  it  to  the  peculiar  manner  of  interment.  As 
this  subject  is  so  curious  and  interesting,  l  cannot  refrain  from 
presenting  the  following  communications  which  appeared  in  the 
Missouri  Gazette,  shortly  after  these  graves  were  first  opened. 
They  not  only  contain  the  several  theories  which  were  advanc¬ 
ed,  but  also  many  facts  which  are  important  to  those  who  have 
turned  their  attention  to  the  antiquities  of  our  country.  The 
first  was  probably  written  by  a  physician,  but  his  name  I  have 
not  been  able  to  learn — the  second  is  from  the  pen  of  Judge  Pet- 
tibone,  of  St.  Charles  ?*  and  the  last  from  that  of  the  Rev.  J.  M. 


274 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


Peck,*  Baptist  Missionary  in  Illinois.  I  cannot  omit  the  pres¬ 
ent  opportunity  of  stating,  that  I  am  greatly  indebted  to  these 
two  gentlemen  for  much  valuable  information  concerning  the 
resources  and  geography  of  the  states,  which  are  the  subjects  of 
the  present  work. 

From  the  Missouri  Gazette  of  November  6,  1818. 

“  A  short  time  since,  Mr.  Long,  the  proprietor  of  a  farm  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Merrimack  river,  about  fifteen  miles  from  this 
place,  (St.  Louis)  discovered  on  the  site  on  which  he  had  fixed 
his  dwelling,  a  number  of  graves,  the  size  of  which  appeared  un¬ 
commonly  small-  This  awakened  his  curiosity,  and  led  him  to 
a  minute  examination,  which  convinced  him  they  were  the  re¬ 
mains  of  human  beings  much  smaller  than  those  of  the  present 
day.  He  seemed  warranted  in  this  conclusion,  as  well  from  the 
uniform  appearance  of  the  skeletons,  (the  length  of  which  in  no 
case  exceeded  four  feet)  as  from  the  teeth,  which  bore  the  evident 
marks  of  those  belonging  to  adult  persons.  He  communicated 
these  facts  to  a  gentleman  of  this  place,  who  on  Sunday  last,  to¬ 
gether  with  two  other  gentlemen,  accompanied  by  Doctors 
Walker  and  Grayson,  proceeded  to  the  place  of  interment  — 
They7  found,  as  had  been  stated,  in  a  wood  adjacent  to  the  house, 
a  great  number  of  graves,  all  situated  on  small  tumuli  or  hillocks, 
raised  about  three  feet  above  the  surface  ;  they  examined  sever¬ 
al,  the  first  of  which,  by  actual  measurement  was  discovered  to 
he  only  twenty-three  inches  in  length.  The  grave  was  careful¬ 
ly7  cased  up  on  both  sides,  as  well  at  the  head  and  foot  with  fiat 
stone  ;  in  the  bottom  also  a  stone  was  fixed,  on  which  the  body 
was  lying,  placed  on  the  right  side  with  the  head  to  the  east. — 
Time  had  completely  destroyed  all  the  soft  parts  of  the  body,  as 
well  as  decomposed  the  bones,  which,  however,  still  preserved 
their  relative  situation.  The  teeth,  which  were  expected  to  fur¬ 
nish  the  best,  and  perhaps  the  only  data  to  judge,  were  found  in 
a  state  almost  perfect,  being  defended  by  the  enamel,  which 
seems  only  to  yield  to  chemical  decomposition.  To  the  aston¬ 
ishment  of  all,  they  proved  to  be  the  teeth  of  a  being,  who,  if  it 
had  not  attained  the  age  of  puberty,  had  unquestionably  arrived 
at  that  period  of  life  when  the  milk  teeth  yield  to  the  second  or 
permanent  set.  The  molares  and  incisores  were  of  the  ordinary 


*  See  Sctoolci  aft’s  View?  section  3.  ‘  Dwarf  Skeletons .’ 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


275 


size  of  second  teeth.  The  jaw  bone  seemed  to  have  its  full  com¬ 
plement,  unless  it-  were  the  dentes  supientiae ,  or  what  is  better 
understood  by  the  wisdom  teeth,  which  make  their  appearance 
from  the  age  of  eighteen  to  twenty-two  or  twenty  three.  The 
next  grave  examined  was  on  an  adjacent  mound,  and  measured 
twenty-seven  inches  ;  it  resembled  in  every  respect  the  first,  ex¬ 
cept  that  the  top  of  it  was  covered  with  flat  stones  placed  hori¬ 
zontally.  Several  others  were  opened,  all  of  which  presented  a 
uniform  appearance  ;  and  none,  although  many  were  measured, 
proved  to  be  in  length  more  than  four  feet  two  or  three  inches. 

From  these  facts  the  mind  is  brought  to  the  irresistible  con¬ 
clusion,  that  these  are  the  remains  of  beings  differing  altogether 
from,  and  inferior  in  general  size  to  ourselves. 

For  if  in  the  subject  first  mentioned,  we  suppose  it  to  be  a 
being  of  the  usual  growth,  the  facts  of  its  having  attained  the 
age  of  seven  or  eight  years,  as  seems  proven  from  the  teeth,  is 
directly  opposite  to,  and  at  war  with  the  circumstance  of  its 
being  only  twenty-three  inches  long,  the  usual  length  of  a  child 
eight  or  ten  months  old ;  and  justifies  the  conclusion,  that  by 
nature  it  was  destined  to  be  of  inferior  size.  As  to  the  time 
these  bodies  have  been  deposited,  there  is  no  clue  by  which  to 
form  any  certain  opinion.  The  bones  have  been  thoroughly 
changed  by  time,  nothing  remaining  but  the  lime  or  earthy  par¬ 
ticles  of  them,  which  can  undergo  no  further  change,  and  may 
as  well  be  supposed  to  have  been  in  this  state  five  centuries  ago, 
as  one.  It  is  certain  they  have  been  there  an  immense  length  of 
time,  from  the  large  growth  of  timber  on  the  mounds,  and  the 
roots  of  trees  which  have  made  their  way  through  the  graves. 

The  subject  certainly  invites  the  attention  of  the  learned  and 
curious,  and  opens  an  ample  field  for  investigation,  at  least  to 
form  some  plausible  conjecture  of  a  race  of  beings  who  have  in¬ 
habited  our  country  at  a  period  far  beyond  that  of  which  tra¬ 
dition  gives  us  any  account.” 

Judge  Pettibone?s  remarks,  which  appeared  in  the  same  paper 
a  few  months  after  the  above,  are  as  follows  : 

“  A  publication  in  your  paper  of  the  sixth  of  November  last, 
concerning  a  discovery  of  some  dwarf  skeletons,  made  upon  the 
farm  of  a  Mr.  Long,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Merrimack  river, 
in  this  county,  (St.  Louis)  together  with  several  letters  from 


276 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


this  place  on  the  same  subject,  are  now  going  the  round  of  the 
American  papers.  As  yet  I  have  seen  no  attempt  to  a;  count  for 
the  size  and  appearance  of  those  skeletons,  upon  any  other  sup¬ 
position  than  that  they  are  the  remains  of  a  people  far  less  in 
size  than  any  known  at  the  present  day.  Unwilling  to  adopt  a 
belief  so  contrary  to  the  general  order  of  nature  and  to  the  his¬ 
tory  of  the  human  species,  so  far  as  it  ^bas  been  transmitted  to 
us,  I  shall  hazard  some  conjectures  upon  the  subject,  vvhic  h  I 
think  will  in  some  measure  tend  to  dissolve  the  mystery  that 
hovers  over  these  bones,  and  to  reconcile  their  appearance  with 
the  general  history  of  our  race.  To  be  sure,  nature,  in  her 
sport,  has  now  and  then  produced  monsters.  A  taste  for  the 
marvellous  among  travellers  and  historians,  has  occasionally 
conjured  up  a  race  of  giants,  or  a  nation  of  pigmies  ;  but  when 
the  light  of  truth  has  rea  hed  us  from  the  distant  corners  of  the 
earth  where  they  were  said  to  dwell,  we  have  found  them  to  as¬ 
sume  the  size,  shape,  and  attitude  of  men,  and  nothing  more. 
So  far  as  observation  or  history  extends,  we  find  the  species 
nearly  the  same  in  all  ages  and  in  all  countries.  Climate  has 
had  some  effect  upon  the  size  and  upon  the  complexion.  The 
excessive  cold  of  the  north  has  shortened  an  inch  or  two  the 
necks  of  the  Esquimaux,  and  the  heat  of  the  south  has  coloured 
the  African-  But  what  in  this  genial  climate  should  make 
dwarfs?  It  is  here,  if  any  where,  that  we  should  naturally  ex¬ 
pect  to  line!  giants  !  All  the  other  productions  of  nature  are  here 
brought  forth  in  the  highest  perfection.  And  shall  man  here 
grow  a  pigmy  ?  Unless  we  are  ready  to  adopt  the  opinion  of 
certain  naturalists*  that  the  human  species  are  the  legitimate 
descendants  of  the  apes,  and  that  they  once  wore  tails,  and  were 
of  their  diminutive  size  ;  unless  we  are  ready  to  believe  the  his¬ 
tory  of  the  Lilliputians,  ami  of  Tom  Thumb,  1  think  we  shall 
discard  the  idea  of  a  nation  of  dwarfs,  as  wholly  preposterous. 
But  how  shall  we  account  for  the  appearances  upon  the  farm  of 
Mr.  Long,  upon  any  oiher  supposition  ? 

“  None  of  the  graves  found  there  exceed  four  feet  in  length, 
many  of  them  fall  short  of  three,  and  the  teeth  found  in  all  of 
them  shew  that  they  contain  the  remains  of  human  beings  who 
had  arrived  at  years  of  maturity.  The  manners  and  customs  of 
the  Indians  with  respect  to  the  treatment  of  their  dead,  will,  I 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  277 

think,  solve  all  difficulties,  and  satisfactorily  account  for  these 
appearances,  without  doing  v  iolence  to  nature.  According  to 
the  testimonies  of  travellers  and  historians,  it  has  been  the  cus¬ 
tom  among  many  tribes  of  Indians,  to  hang  their  dead  in  baskets 
upon  trees  and  upon  scaffolds,  until  their  flesh  was  consumed, 
and  then  to  take  them  down  and  clean  their  hones,  and  bury 
them.  There  existed  an  order  of  men  among  them  called  bone - 
pickers,  with  long  nails  like  claws,  whose  business  and  profession 
it  was  to  clean  the  uuconsumed  flesh  from  the  bones  previous  to 
"burial.  'Phis  custom  still  exists  among  the  Indians  on  the  waters 
of  the  Missouri,  and  rationally  accounts  for  the  appearances  upon 
the  farm  of  Mr.  Long  The  hones  of  a  skeleton  of  the  ordinary 
size  when  separated,  would  naturally  occupy  a  grave  of  three  or 
four  feet  in  length.  It  appears  that  in  all  the  graves  which  were 
opened,  the  bones,  except  the  teeth,  were  reduced  to  a  chalky 
substance  ;  so  that  it  would  he  impossible  to  know,  with  any 
certainty,  in  what  state,  condition,  or  form  they  were  deposited 
there.  These  skeletons  are  said  to  rest  on  their  sides.  Taking 
this  fact-  to  he  true,  it  goes  to  strengthen  my  ideas  on  this  sub¬ 
ject.  In  burying  a  corpse,  it  is  natural,  and  so  far  as  we  are 
acquainted,  universally  the  custom,  to  bury  them  with  the  face 
upwards.  We  can  look  upon  our  dead  friends  with  a  melancholy 
complacency  ;  we  cast  a  long  and  lingering  look  after  them, 
until  they  are  completely  shut  from  our  view  in  the  grave  ;  and 
nothing  is  more  hard  and  heart-rending  than  to  tear  our  last 
looks  from  them.  It  is  natural  then  that  the  body  should  be 
placed  in  such  a  position  as  most  to  favour  this  almost  universal 
desire  of  the  human  heart.  But  in  burying  a  skeleton,  it  would 
be  as  natural  to  avert  the  horrid  grin  of  a  death’s  head  from  us. 
To  face  the  grinning  skeleton  of  a  friend,  must  fill  us  with  horror 
and  disgust.  ‘Turn  away  the  horrid  sight,’  would  be  the  lan¬ 
guage  of  nature.  If  we  adopt  my  supposition  as  correct  in  this 
case,  all  the  facts  correspond  with  nature.  But  if  we  adopt  the 
opinion  of  the  writer  in  your  paper,  our  opinions  are  at  war  with 
nature,  reason,  and  universal  observation.” 

The  following  are  the  observations  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Peck  on 
the  same  subject : 

“  A  communication  in  the  Gazette  of  the  10th  inst.  by  “Ilis- 
toricus,”  accounting  in  a  rational  manner  for  the  graves  on  the 


278 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


plantation  of  Mr.  Long,  lias  given  rise  to  the  following  remarks, 
as  tending  to  cast  further  light  on  the  subject,  and  in  part  con¬ 
firm  the  opinion  of  the  writer  : 

Mr.  M - informed  me,  that  himself,  his  lady,  and  another, 

were  present  at  the  opening  of  several  graves,  after  the  spot  had 
been  visited,  and  the  skeletons  examined  by  several  physicians 
of  St  Louis.  One  grave  w  as  opened  which  measured  four  feet 
in  length  ;  this  was  formed  by  laying  a  flat  stone  at  the  bottom, 
placing  one  at  each  side,  one  at  each  end,  and  covering  the  mouth 
with  another.  In  the  last  circumstance,  this  grave  differed  from 
the  others  that  were  opened,  the  contents  were  a  full  grown 
skeleton ,  with  the  head  and  teeth,  part  of  the  spine,  the  thigh  and 
leg  bones,  in  a  tolerable  state  of  preservation.  The  leg  bones 
were  found  parallel  with  the  bones  of  the  thighs ,  and  every  ap¬ 
pearance  indicated  either  that  the  corpse  had  been  entombed? 
with  the  legs  and  thighs  placed  so  as  to  meet,  or  that  a  skeleton 
had  been  deposited  in  this  order.  The  first  opinion  seems  the 
most  probable,  from  the  fact  that  a  large  stone  pipe  was  found  in 
the  tomb,  and  which  l  understand  is  now  in  the  possession  of 
Mr.  Long. 

It  is  a  well  known  fact,  that  both  implements  of  war,  and  of 
domestic  use-,  are  buried  with  the  dead  bodies  of  the  Indians  ; 
but  it  admits  of  a  question,  if  they  are  ever  deposited  with  the 
mere  skeleton . 

“  It  is  a  well  known  fact,”  says  bishop  Madison,  while  writing 
on  the  supposed  fortifications  of  the  western  country,*  “  that 
among  many  of  the  Indian  tribes,  the  bones  of  the  deceased  are 
annually  collected  and  deposited  in  one  place  ;  the  funeral  rites 
are  then  solemnized  with  the  warmest  expressions  of  love  and 
friendship  ;  and  that  this  untutored  race,  urged  by  the  feelings 
of  nature,  consign  to  the  bosom  of  the  earth,  along  with  the  re¬ 
mains  of  their  deceased  relatives,  food,  weapons  of  war,  and  often 
those  articles  they  possessed  and  most  highly  valued  when  alive.” 
This  fact  is  substantiated  from  various  respectable  sources.  The 
pious  custom  of  collecting  the  relics  of  the  dead,  which  accident 
or  the  events  of  a  battle  might  have  dispersed  through  the  wil¬ 
derness,  easily  accounts  for  the  graves  on  the  Merrimack,  as 
well  as  explains  the  origin  of  the  artificial  mounds  in  our  vicin- 


*  See  American  Philosophical  Transactions,  Vol.  vi. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


279 


ity.  If  those  were  opened,  there  would  be  found  promiscuously 
deposited  the  hones  of  the  aborigines,  which  pious  veneration 
from  year  to  year,  and  from  century  to  century,  industriously 
collected.  The  cemetery  alluded  to  on  the  plantation  of  Mr. 
Long,  may  be  view ed^s  the  public  burial  place  of  some  pow  er¬ 
ful  nation,  of  the  sa me  size ,  and  similar  customs  with  other  In¬ 
dians. 

No  wish  is  entertained  to  object  to  the  hypothesis  of  “  liisto- 
ricus,”  in  regard  to  the  customs  to  which  he  alludes.  The 
shortness  of  the  graves  may  he  attributed  to  different  causes.” 

Fire  Prairie  river ,  rains  a  northeast  course  through  the  north¬ 
ern  part  of  Lilian!  county,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the 
right  side,  six  miles  below  Fort  Osage.  Fire  prairie  extends 
along  the  Missouri  near  the  mouth  of  this  stream. 

Fishing  river ,  a  considerable  stream  of  the  western  part  of  the 
state,  rises  in  Clay  county,  and  after  receiving  a  few  tributa¬ 
ries,  falls  into  the  Missouri,  about  20  miles  below  Fort  Osage. 
The  lands  on  this  stream  are  celebrated  for  their  fertility. 

Fiat  river ,  a  branch  of  Eig  river,  meandering  through  St. 
Francois  county. 

Fort  Osage ,  (formerly  Fort  Clark,  J  situated  on  the  south  side 
of  the  Missouri,  near  the  western  boundary  of  the  state,  on  an 
eminence  about  100  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  which,  by 
forming  an  elbow,  affords  a  beautiful  prospect.  The  fort  is  small, 
not  being  calculated  for  more  than  one  company  of  men.  Few, 
if  any  troops  are  at  present  stationed  here,  in  consequence  of 
the  large  settlements  by  which  it  is  surrounded.  There  are  at 
this  place  a  factory,  and  a  trading  establishment.  The  bank  of 
the  Missouri  at  the  fort  is  high  and  rocky,  below  it  is  generally 
well  timbered.  Several  of  the  prairies  in  this  vicinity  are  very 
large,  extending  in  a  southwest  direction,  with  little  interruption, 
to  near  Santa  Fe.  Persons  who  wish  to  visit  the  latter  place, 
often  travel  this  route  in  preference  to  the  southern.  But  such 
is  the  scarcity  of  fuel,  that  they  are  obliged  to  burn  withered 
grass,  and  sometimes  bison  ordure. 

Fort  Osage  is  in  latitude  38°  40'  north. 


280 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


Fourche  a  Courtois,  a  considerable  stream,  rises  in  the  broken 
lands  in  the  southern  part  of  Washington  and  St.  Genevieve 
counties,  and  running  a  northerly  course,  empties  into  the  Mer¬ 
rimack  on  the  right  side.  Its  banks  abound  with  lead  ore,  which 
is  frequently  accompanied  with  manganese. 


Fourche  a  Thomas ,  f  Thomas9  fork,J  rises  in  the  hills  which 
extend  through  the  southwestern  part  of  the  state,  and  running 
a  southeasterly  course,  falls  into  Big  Black  river  between  Spring 
and  Currents  rivers. 

Frankfort ,  a  town  of  Pike  county,  situated  in  section  35  of 
township  55  north,  in  range  4,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meri¬ 
dian,  between  Spencer  and  Peno  creeks,  18  miles  west  of  Louis¬ 
iana.  There  is  a  flourishing  settlement  in  the  vicinity,  although 
the  town  is  not  yet  of  much  consequence. 


Franklin ,  a  flourishing  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of 
Howard  county,  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Missouri,  in 
township  49  north,  in  range  16,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meri¬ 
dian.  This  place  has  increased  with  a  rapidity  almost  unexam¬ 
pled,  containing  already  upwards  of  1500  inhabitants.  The  of¬ 
fices  of  the  register  and  receiver  of  the  land  district  of  Howard, 
are  kept  here.  An  act  has  lately  been  passed  by  the  legislature, 
incorporating  the  Franklin  academy  under  the  direction  of  seven 
trustees,  it  is  at  present  in  a  flourishing  situation,  and  pro¬ 
mises  the  most  beneficial  results. 

As  a  place  of  business,  Franklin  has  always  held  a  conspicu¬ 
ous  rank.  His  the  depot  of  an  extensive  tract  of  country,  which 
lias  been  justly  celebrated  for  its  fertility.  The  annual  exports 
of  bacon,  corn  and  salt,  are  very  considerable.  The  Missouri 
at  this  place  affords  an  excellent  harbor  for  boats,  and  the  town 
possesses  almost  every  natural  advantage. 

Franklin  is  in  lat.  38°  52'  north,  130  miles  northwest  of  St. 
Charles. 


Fredericktown ,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Madison  county,  situated 
about  half  a  mile  south  of  St.  Michaels,  and  near  Mine  La 
Motte.  It  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  inexhaustible  mines  of 
lead  and  iron.  The  lands,  therefore,  in  this  vicinity,  are  gene- 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


28  i 


rally  broken,  hilly,  ami  sterile,  although  there  are  several  small 
trai  ts,  which  furnish  excellent  plantations.  At  this  place,  the 
roads  leading  from  Jackson  to  Potosi,  and  from  the  Arkansas 
to  St.  Louis,  cross  each  other.  Frcdericktown  is  in  latitude  37c 
30'  north,  85  miles  due  south  of  St.  Charles. 

Gabouric  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  St.  Genevieve  county,  runs 
a  devious  course,  arid  empties  into  the  Mississippi,  about  ten 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Kaskaskia  river.  The  lands  on 

,  •  .  ,t 

this  stream  are  in  general  fertile,  those  immediately  on  its  banks 
being  level,  those  farther  west,  undulating.  Two  miles  above 
the  mouth,  is  the  town  of  St.  Genevieve. 

Gasconade ,  the  county  seat  of  Gasconade,  situated  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Gasconade  river,  at  its  junction  with  the  Missouri, 
in  township  45  north,  in  range  6,  west  of  the  5th  principal  me¬ 
ridian.  The  country  in  the  vicinity  is  elevated,  undulating, 
and  sometimes  even  hilly,  and  generally  sterile.  The  mouth  of 
the  Gasconade  affords  a  good  harbor  for  boats.  Very  few  build¬ 
ings  have  as  yet  been  erected  in  this  place,  and  it  is  very  doubt¬ 
ful  whether  its  increase  w  ill  he  as  rapid  as  was  anticipated. 

Gasconade  is  in  latitude  38°  40'  north,  60  miles  nearly  west  of 
St.  Charles. 

Gasconade  river,  a  large  navigable  stream,  rises  in  the  south¬ 
ern  part  of  the  state,  and  running  a  northeasterly  course  through 
the  county  of  Gasconade,  empties  into  the  Missouri,  in  township 
45  north,  in  range  6,  w  est  of  the  5th  principal  meridian,  about 
100  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi.  Its  channel 
is  rough  and  rocky,  and  the  lands  on  its  borders  are  broken, 
hilly,  and  badly  wooded.  Occasionally,  however,  a  tract  of 
fertile  alluvion  intervenes.  Iron  and  lead  ore  are  abundant  on 
this  stream,  and  also  salt-petre.  The  latter  is  found  in  caves, 
some  of  which  are  very  large  and  splendid.  In  these  have  been 
found  axes,  and  implements  of  different  kinds.  Ancient  works, 
such  as  mounds,  forts,  &c.  arc  also  found  on  this  stream.  (See 
Gasconade  county.) 

On  the  Gasconade  is  a  large  quantity  of  pine  timber,  which 
is  very  valuable  on  account  of  its  scarcity  in  this  state  and  Illi- 

36 


282 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI, 


nois.  Six  or  seven  saw-mills  are  now  in  operation  on  this 
stream,  about  100  miles  west  of  St.  Louis,  and  it  is  probable  that 
the  number  will  be  much  increased.  Formerly,  lumber  was 
brought  at  great  expence  from  the  Alleghany  and  Ohio  rivers. 
At  present  it  can  be  sent  down  the  Gasconade  to  St.  Louis,  and 
the  other  towns  along  the  river,  for  one-fourth  the  price.  This 
circumstance  has  of  course  stopped  the  importation,  and  keeps 
so  much  money  within  the  state.  The  width  of  the  Gasconade 
at  its  mouth,  is  one  hundred  and  fifty-seven  yards,  and  its  depth 
nineteen  feet. 

Geoffrioii  river ,  (or  Jaufflone)  runs  a  southeast  course,  and 
empties  into  the  Mississippi,  above  Salt  river.  It  is  SO  yards 
wide  at  its  mouth.  I  am  led  to  believe  the  original  French 
name  was  Javelot. 

}  Good  Man’s  creek ,  see  Bon-homme. 

Good  Womaiis  river ,  see  Big  and  Little  Bon-femme. 

Grand  Chariton ,  a  considerable  stream  of  Chariton  county, 
runs  a  southerly  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri,  at  the 
town  of  Chariton.  Previous  to  its  joining  the  Missouri,  it  unites 
with  the  Little  Chariton,  on  which  account  they  are  sometimes 
called  ‘  The  Charitons.’  It  is  navigable  nearly  100  miles.  The 
lands  on  its  bor  ders  are  rich,  broken,  and  heavily  timbered,  and 
contain  several  fine  and  flourishing  settlements.  This  stream  is 
70  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  which  is  220  above  the  junction  of 
the  Missouri  with  the  Mississippi. 

Grande  Glaive,  a  small  stream  of  St.  Louis  county,  runs  a 
southerly  cour  se,  and  empties  into  the  Merrimack. 

Grand  Fork,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Osage,  emptying  in 
from  the  south. 

Grand  river ,  a  large  stream,  rises  in  the  highlands,  between 
the  Riviere  des  Moines  and  the  Missouri,  and  running  a  south¬ 
easterly  course,  empties  into  the  Missouri,  in  township  53  north, 
in  range  20,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian,  about  250  miles 
above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi.  For  some  distance,  it 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  283 

forms  the  boundary  between  Chariton  and  Ray  counties,  and 
passes  through  the  interior  of  the  Missouri  military  tract.  It 
is  navigable  for  several  hundred  miles.  The  lands  on  its  bor¬ 
ders  are  reputed  to  be  very  fertile.  At  the  junction  of  this 
stream  with  the  Missouri,  is  a  good  town  site,  and  the  settlements 
in  the  vicinity  are  already  quite  flourishing  and  populous.  The 
principal  objection  to  the  country  watered  by  this  stream  is,  that 
it  is  deficient  in  timber.  Grand  river,  where  it  enters  the  Mis¬ 
souri,  is  between  eighty  and  one  hundr  ed  yards  in  width. 

Grassij  creek ,  a  small  stream,  runs  a  northeast  course,  and 
empties  into  Salt  river  on  the  right  side,  near  its  junction  with 
the  Mississippi. 

Gravois  creek ,  a  trifling  stream  of  St.  Louis  county.  The 
lands  on  its  borders  are  gently  undulating,  and  very  fertile. — 
They  contain  some  of  the  most  productive  plantations  in  the 
state. 

Great  Gravel  river ,  a  considerable  stream,  interlocks  with  the 
St.  Francis,  runs  a  northeast  course,  and  empties  into  the  Osage 
river,  36  miles  above  Little  Gravel,  and  according  to  Pike,  118 
miles  above  the  confluence  of  the  Osage  with  the  Missouri. 

Greenville ,  a  small  town  of  Wayne  county,  situated  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  St.  Francis  river,  in  township  28  north,  in 
range  5,  east  of  the  5th  principal  meridian.  It  is  situated  on  a 
confirmed  claim  of  J.  E.  Kelly.  No  improvements  of  any  con¬ 
sequence  have  been  as  yet  made  here. 

Greenville  is  in  latitude  37°  15' north,  about  100  miles  due 
south  of  St.  Charles. 

Hannibal ,  a  town  of  Ralls  county  on  the  Mississippi,  near  the 
mouth  of  Bear  creek,  in  township  57  north,  in  range  4,  west  of 
the  5th  principal  meridian,  25  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Salt  riv¬ 
er,  and  15  below  that  of  Two  Rivers.  The  town  is  situated  on  a 
high  rocky  bank  of  the  river. 

Hazel  Run ,  a  trifling  stream  of  Washington  county. 

Herculaneum ,  a  flourishing  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of 
Jefferson  county,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Joachim  creek,  in 


284 


GAZETTEER  OY  MISSOURI. 


township  41  north,  in  range  6,  cast  of  the  5th  principal  meridi¬ 
an,  on  a  high  sandy  bank  of  the  Mississippi  river.  The  flat  on 
which  the  town  is  laid  out  is  narrow,  and  hounded  on  each  end 
by  perpendicular  precipices,  200  feet  high,  and  rising  almost  di¬ 
rectly  from  the  water’s  edge.  It  appears  to  be  nothing  more 
than  an  opening  for  the  admission  of  the  Joachim  to  the  Missis¬ 
sippi,  The  town  contains  between  SO  and  40  houses,  including 
a  log  court  house  and  jail,  4  or  5  stores,  a  post-office,  &c.  The 
landing  for  boats  is  very  good,  and  the  Joachim  affords  an  ex¬ 
cellent  harbor  during  the  winter  and  spring.  In  the  vicinity  of 
the  town  are  three  shot  towers,  which  are  built  ori  the  precipices, 
from  which  the  shot  is  dropped  to  the  riv  er  bank.  There  are 
also  several  saw  and  grist  mills  and  distilleries  on  the  Joachim 
and  Plattin,  which  empties  into  the  Mississippi,  five  miles  be¬ 
low.  Within  a  few  miles,  lead  and  iron  ore  are  found  in  abun¬ 
dance,  and  this  town  is  a  considerable  depot  ofthe  immense  mine 
country.  ( Schoolcraft. )  A  few  miles  north  of  Herculaneum 
are  the  sulphur  springs,  sometimes  resorted  by  invalids  and  con¬ 
valescents.  They  issue  from  a  stratum  of  limestone.  They 
are,  however,  not  so  strongly  impregnated  with  sulphur  as  those 
near  St.  Louis.  Many  persons  resort  here  during  the  summer 
and  fall  months.  “  About  5  miles  west  of  the  town,  there  is  a 
limestone  rock  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  in  some 
parts  40  or  50  feet  high.  This  rock  is  so  completely  perforated 
in  almost  every  part,  as  to  resemble  a  honey  comb,  and  the  per¬ 
forations  are  from  one-eighth  to  three  quarters  of  an  inch  in  dia¬ 
meter.  It  has  exactly  the  appearance  of  marine  rocks,  perfora¬ 
ted  by  mytilus,  lithophagus  or  rugosus 

Herculaneum  is  in  latitude  38°  15'  north,  30  miles  south  of  St 
Louis,  and  35  northeast  of  Potosi. 

Howard's  Bluff,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Cole  county,  situated  on 
a  high  bluff  of  the  Missouri,  12  or  15  miles  above  the  future 
capital  of  the  state.  It  is  in  township  45  north,  in  range  13.  west 
of  the  5th  principal  meridian.  As  it  has  only  been  recently  laid 
out,  it  contains  as  yet  but  a  small  number  of  inhabitants. 

Howard’s  Bluffis  in  latitude  38°  35'  north,  105  miles  due  west 
of  St.  Charles. 

Bradbury's  Travels  in  tbc  interior  of  the  United  States. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


285 


Indian  creek ,  a  small  stream,  runs  north  through  Washington 
and  Jefferson  counties,  and  empties  into  the  Merrimack. 

Jackson ,  a  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Cape  Girar¬ 
deau  county,  situated  on  a  beautiful  eminence  between  the  east¬ 
ern  and  western  branches  of  Zenon  creek,  and  about  10  miles 
west  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  laid  out  in  a  regular  form,  the 
streets  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  It  contains  between 
60  and  100  houses,  among  which  are  a  court  house  and  jail,  of 
a  very  good  construction,  and  also  a  printing-office,  from  which 
a  weekly  paper  is  issued,  entitled  the  “  Missouri  Herald.” — 
Eight  lots  of  ground  have  been  appropriated  by  the  legislature 
for  the  use  of  a  seminary  to  be  erected  here,  under  the  direction 
of  five  trustees.  There  is  a  bank  of  Spanish  brown  and  chalk 
in  the  vicinity  of  this  place,  which  promises  to  be  a  source  of 
profit  to  the  inhabitants. 

Jackson  is  situated  in  lat.  37°  20'  N.  50  miles  north  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  130  south  of  St,  Charles, 

James  river ,  rises  in  the  highlands  south  of  the  Gasconade, 
runs  a  southwest  course  about  200  miles,  and  after  receiving 
Findley’s  river  and  several  other  tributaries,  falls  into  White 
river  nearly  1000  miles  above  its  mouth.  Its  waters  have  the 
purity  of  crystal.  On  its  banks  are  situated  a  body  of  the  most 
fertile  land  which  the  whole  valley  of  the  Mississippi  affords. 
The  climate  is  salubrious,  and  game  of  all  kinds  is  very  abun¬ 
dant. 

Jamestown ,  is  situated  in  St.  Louis  county,  on  a  bluff  of  the 
Missouri,  six  miles  above  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi. 
In  the  rear  of  the  town  is  the  rich  and  flourishing  settlement  of 
St.  Ferdinand.  There  is  a  cave  in  the  vicinity,  through  which 
passes  a  fine  stream  of  good  water,  and  which  can  with  very 
little  expense  be  conducted  to  every  part  of  the  tow  n.  The  Mis¬ 
souri  affords  here  a  tolerable  landing  for  boats. 

Jefferson ,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Saline  county,  situated  on  the 
Missouri,  at  the  head  of  Big  bottom,  upon  a  rock-bound  shore, 
which  is  moderately  ascending  from  the  river.  It  forms  one  of 
the  handsomest  sites  on  the  Missouri,  and  the  only  objection  to 
it,  is  the  want  of  timber  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  The  Big 


286 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


bottom,  and  Edmonston’s  bottom  are  situated  directly  above  and 
below.  They  are  both  well  timbered  and  fertile,  and  calculated 
to  support  a  dense  population. 

Jefferson  is  in  latitude  39°  10'  north  ;  about  10  miles  above 
the  town  of  Chariton. 

Joachim  creek ,  a  small  mill  stream  of  Jefferson  county,  runs  a 
devious  easterly  course,  and  empties  into  the  Mississippi  at  Her¬ 
culaneum.  The  lands  on  its  banks  are  in  some  places  fertile,  in 
others  high  and  undulating,  and  abounding  with  the  ores. 

La  Beiiite  creeks  runs  a  northerly  course  through  the  county 
of  Lillard,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the  right  side,  a  few 
miles  below  Blue-water  river. 

La  Charbonniere ,  the  name  given  to  a  coal  bank  on  the  right 
shore  of  the  Missouri,  near  Florissant,  and  about  12  miles  above 
its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi.  The  river  at  this  place  runs 
north  of  east,  and  the  hill  or  bluff  approaches  it  from  the  south. 
It  is  about  4  or  500  yards  in  length,  and  from  150  to  200  feet  in 
height.  The  summit  appears  like  a  clay  bank.  The  stratum 
of  coal  is  from  8  to  12  feet  in  thickness.  It  is  overlaid  by  shale, 
slate,  and  secondary  limestone.  The  coal  is  directly  at  the  edge 
of  the  water,  and  can  be  thrown  from  its  bed  into  the  boats.  It 
is  of  a  very  good  quality,  but  contains  a  considerable  quantity  of 
bitumen.  The  blacksmiths  in  St.  Charles  and  the  vicinity,  make 
use  of  it ;  and  as  the  quantity  contained  in  the  bank  is  immense, 
it  will  probably  become  a  valuable  article  of  export. 

La  Mine  river ,  runs  a  southeast  course  through  the  counties  of 
Saline  and  Cooper,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the  right 
side,  about  200  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi.  It 
is  70  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  is  navigable  for  some  distance. 
Lead  ore  and  salt  springs  are  abundant  on  the  banks  of  this 
stream. 

Les  Mamelles ,  the  termination  of  the  bluffs  of  the  Mississippi 
and  Missouri,  three  miles  east  of  St.  Charles.  Their  form  re¬ 
sembles  that  of  human  breasts,  and  hence  their  name.  They  are 
about  100  feet  above  the  surrounding  plain,  and  command  an 
extensive  view  in  different  directions. 


TOPOGRArHICAL  VIEW  ©F  TOWNS,  &C. 


287 


Little  Bonne- Femme,  a  creek  of  Boone  countv*  runs  a  devious 
southerly  course,  and  falls  into  the  Missouri,  in  township  45 
north,  in  range  12,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian.  It  is 
valuable  for  mill-seats. 

Little  Chariton  river ,  a  stream  of  Chariton  county,  runs  a 
southerly  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the  left  side 
with  Grand  Chariton,  in  township  51  north,  in  range  17,  west 
of  the  5th  principal  meridian,  [t  is  about  30  yards  wide  at  its 
mouth,  and  is  navigable  50  or  60  miles. 

Little  Chenel  Ebert ,  a  small  stream  of  Lillard  county,  (com¬ 
monly  called  Little  Snybar ,)  runs  a  north  course,  and  empties 
into  the  Missouri  in  township  51  north,  in  range  28,  west  of  the 
5th  principal  meridian,  12  miles  above  Talbot  creek.  This 
stream,  about  live  miles  from  the  Missouri,  is  crossed  by  a  chain 
of  rocks,  forming  a  natural  mill-dam.  Above  this  is  a  pond  of 
four  or  live  acres,  and  the  water  from  it  passes  through  an  open¬ 
ing  in  the  rock,  which  might  be  closed  with  a  small  gate. 

Little  Fabba  creek ,  a  trifling  stream  of  Ralls  county,  runs  a 
southeast  course,  and  empties  into  Fabba  creek,  near  its  junction 
with  the  Mississippi. 

Little  Gravel  river ,  rises  near  the  Missouri  river,  and  running 
a  southeast  course,  falls  into  the  left  side  of  the  Osage  river, 
about  100  miles  above  its  confluence  w  ith  the  Missouri. 

Litlle  Manitou  creek,  a  small  stream  of  Cole  county,  runs  a 
northeast  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the  right  side, 
two  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Little  Bonne-femme. 

Little  Merrimack,  a  small  tributary  of  the  Merrimack. 

Little  Muddy  river,  a  considerable  stream  of  Callaway  county, 
runs  a  southerly  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri,  about 
120  miles  above  its  mouth,  in  township  45  north,  in  range  8, 
west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian.  It  affords  a  number  of  fine 
mill-seats.  The  lands  on  its  banks  are  undulating  and  uneven, 
hut  in  many  places  fertile. 

Little  Pine  fork ,  a  branch  of  the  Gasconade,  emptying  in  on 
the  right  side  :  course  northwest. 


288 


GAZETTEER  OP  MISSOURI. 


Little  Prairie ,  a  settlement  on  the  Mississippi  river,  about  SO 
miles  below  New-Madrid.  It  was  commenced  by  a  party  of 
traders  in  the  year  1795,  and  was  for  some  time  in  a  flourishing 
situation.  In  1799  the  population  amounted  to  about  400,  and  a 
considerable  quantity  of  surplus  produce  was  annually  exported 
to  the  south.  Since  this  time,  this  settlement  appears  to  have 
been  constantly  declining.  In  1803,  the  population  did  not  ex¬ 
ceed  150  souls.  The  following  observations  from  an  interesting 
work*  recently  published,  will  illustrate  its  present  situation  : — 
“  In  the  evening,  we  arrived  at  the  remains  of  the  settlement 
called  the  Little  Prairie,  where  there  is  now  only  a  single  house, 
all  the  rest,  together  with  their  foundations,  having  been  swept 
away  by  the  river  soon  after  the  convulsion  of  the  earthquake, 
in  consequence  (as  the  inhabitants  say,  and  as  they  also  affirm  in 
[New-Madrid, )  of  the  land  having  sunk  ten  feet  or  more  below 
its  former  level.” 

Lost  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Montgomery  county,  runs  a  south 
course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  in  township  45  north,  in 
range  3,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian.  Pinkney,  the  scat 
of  justice  of  Montgomery,  is  situated  near  the  mouth  of  this 
stream. 

Louisiana ,  a  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Pike  county, 
situated  mi  the  south  bank  of  Salt  river,  at  its  confluence  with 
the  Mississippi,  in  township  54  north,  in  range  1,  west  of  the 
5th  principal  meridian.  It  is  rapidly  increasing  in  population, 
and  from  the  advantages  which  it  possesses,  promises  to  become 
of  considerable  importance.  By  an  act  of  the  legislature  passed 
during  the  last  session,  an  academy  w  as  established  at  this  place, 
under  the  government  of  seven  trustees.  These  trustees  shall 
be  elected  in  the  same  manner,  perform  the  same  duties,  and  be 
entitled  to  the  same  privileges,  as  provided  for  by  the  act  esta¬ 
blishing  an  academy  in  the  towns  of  St.  Charles  and  Franklin  ; 
Provided ,  that  there  shall  be  no  compulsion  to  teach  the  French 
language  in  the  said  Louisiana  academy. 

Louisiana  is  in  latitude  39°  25'  north  ;  80  miles  northwest  of 
St.  Charles. 


*  Travels  into  the  Arkansa  territory  during  the  year  1819,  by  Thomas  Nuttal,  F.L.S. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


289 


Loutre  river ,  a  stream  of  Montgomery  county,  runs  a  southeast 
course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  in  township  46  north,  in 
range  5,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian,  ten  miles  below 
the  confluence  of  the  Gasconade.  It  affords  a  number  of  excel¬ 
lent  mill-seats ;  and  on  its  borders  are  some  fine  districts  of 
farming  land.  Loutre  island  is  in  the  Missouri,  opposite  the 
mouth  of  this  stream,  and  is  twelve  miles  in  length.  The  soil  is 
very  fertile,  and  it  has  a  compact  settlement.  On  the  head  wa¬ 
ters  of  this  stream  are  said  to  be  ancient  works,  similar  to  those 
on  the  Mississippi,  for  a  description  of  which  the  reader  is  re¬ 
ferred  to  JVoyer  creek . 

Madansburgh,  a  town  in  Perry  county,  15  miles  south  of  St. 
Genevieve,  near  Saline  creek.  There  are  extensive  salt-works 
here,  from  whence  a  great  proportion  of  the  salt  consumed  in 
the  interior  is  procured.  The  springs  are  very  strongly  im¬ 
pregnated,  and  are  considered  lasting. 

Manitou  creeks  a  small  stream  of  Howard  county,  runs  a  south 
course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the  left  side,  a  few 
miles  below  the  town  of  Franklin.  It  received  its  name  from  the 
Indians,  in  consequence  of  some  singular  productions  of  nature 
in  the  vicinity,  which  they  suppose  are  frequently  visited  by  the 
Manitou ,  or  Great  Spirit.  (See  Cedar  creek. )  This  stream  is 
sometimes  called  Grand  or  Big  Manitou,  by  way  of  distinction 
from  Little  Manitou  below. 

Marais  Croche ,  a  small  French  settlement  near  St.  Charles. 

Marais  des  Liards ,  see  Village  d  Robert . 

Marthasville ,  a  small  post  town  in  Montgomery  county,  situa¬ 
ted  on  a  bluff,  about  a  half  mile  from  the  Missouri  river  and  Old 
Charrette  village,  40  miles  from  St.  Charles,  on  the  road  lead¬ 
ing  from  thence  to  Franklin.  It  lies  on  a  beautiful  ridge,  com¬ 
manding  a  fine  view  of  the  river,  and  containing  several  springs 
of  good  water.  There  is  also  in  the  vicinity  a  large  quantity  of 
good  timber.  Charrette  creek,  on  which  are  several  valuable 
mill  seats,  empties  into  the  Missouri,  a  short  distance  above  the 
town. 


290 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


Mast  creek,  a  small  stream,  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the 
right  side,  a  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  Cedar  creek.  It 
was  so  named  by  Capts.  Lewis  and  Clarke. 

Merrimack  river ,  a  large  navigable  stream,  rises  near  the 
head  waters  of  the  Gasconade,  in  the  range  of  hills  in 
the  interior  of  the  state,  and  running  a  devious  course,  empties 
into  the  Mississippi,  18  miles  below  St.  Louis.  It  is  swelled  by 
a  number  of  tributaries,  the  largest  of  w  hich  are  Little  Merri¬ 
mack,  Bourheuse,  Fourche  a  Courtois  and  Big  river.  The 
lands  on  the  borders  of  this  stream  are  in  many  places  fertile, 
hut  generally  high,  broken  and  sterile.  Near  its  sources  are  ex¬ 
tensive  pine  forests,  in  the  vicinity  of  w  hich,  several  saw  mills 
are  about  to  be  erected. 

It  is  formerly  supposed,  that  silver  ore  was  abundant  on  the 
hanks  of  the  Merrimack,  but  this  opinion  has  long  since  been 
abandoned.  They  contain,  however,  lead,  iron,  gypsum,  salt, 
and  according  to  Mr.  Schoolcraft,  manganese. 

According  to  Mr.  Bradbury,  fossil  bones  have  been  found  a 
short  distance  from  this  stream.  He  observes — 44  A  salt  lick, 
about  three  miles  from  the  Merrimack  river,  and  12  from  St. 
Louis,  several  bones  have  been  discovered,  evidently  belonging 
to  the  same  species  of  mammoth  as  those  found  on  the  Ohio,  and 
in  Orange  county,  state  of  New-York.” 

Ancient  works  of  various  kinds  are  found  on  the  banks  of  the 
Merrimack,  such  as  mounds,  ancient  pottery,  arrow  heads,  Ac- 
The  dwarf  skeletons  which  excited  so  much  attention,  were 
found  on  its  banks,  near  the  plantation  of  Mr.  Long.^  It  is 
worthy  of  remark,  that  this  stream  has  no  considerable  tributa¬ 
ries  from  the  north,  owing  probably  to  its  proximity  to  the 
Missouri. 

About  six  years  since,  a  town  was  laid  olfon  the  banks  of  this 
stream,  30  miles  west  of  St.  Louis,  and  about  the  same  distance 
southwest  of  St.  Charles,  called  Merrimack.  This  river  is 
navigable  to  this  place  at  all  seasons,  and  the  landing  opposite 
the  town  site  is  very  good.  The  main  road  from  St.  Charles  to 
Potosi  passes  through  this  place,  as  also  from  the  upper  settle- 


*  For  a  description  of  these  antiquities,  see  Fenton. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  291 


merits  on  the  Merrimack,  Gasconade,  Boeuf,  &c.  It  is  surroun¬ 
ded  by  a  fertile  country,  and  will  probably  become  a  rich  and 
populous  settlement ;  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  much  improve¬ 
ment  will  for  many  years  be  made  in  the  town. 

Mexico ,  a  town  in  Callaway  county,  situated  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  Missouri,  at  the  mouth  of  Muddy  river.  It  is  surroun¬ 
ded  by  a  fertile  and  thickly  settled  country. 

Mineral  Fork,  a  small  branch  of  Big  river,  in  Washington 
county. 

Mine  River,  see  La  Mine . 

Military  Bounty  Tract .  Five  hundred  thousand  acres  of  land 
have  been  selected  in  this  state  by  the  general  government,  for 
the  military  bounties.  These  lands  lie  in  townships  53,  54,  55, 
and  56  north,  in  ranges  16,  17,  18,  19,  20,  21,  22,  and  23,  west 
of  the  5th  principal  meridian,  and  are  at  present  included  within 
the  boundaries  of  Ray  and  Chariton  counties.  The  tract  is  ge¬ 
nerally  fertile,  but  is  not  so  well  watered  as  is  usually  the  case 
in  a  country  so  uneven.  Near  the  rivers  and  water  courses,  it  is 
generally  well  timbered.  Small  prairies  are  occasionally  found 
near  the  rivers  ;  but  receding  from  them  they  become  more 
frequent  and  larger,  till,  at  the  distance  of  25  or  30  miles,  and 
sometimes  in  10  miles  or  less,  the  timber  becomes  lost  in  general 
prairie.* 

In  conformity  with  the  plan  adopted  under  the  head  of  Illinois 
Military  Bounty  Tract ,  1  shall  here  present  an  abstract  of  the 
laws  of  this  state,  in  regard  to  the  recording  of  deeds  and  pay¬ 
ment  of  taxes. 


LAWS  CONCERNING  DEEDS. 

Two  sections  in  the  laws  are  precisely  the  same  in  hcec  verba, 
as  the  first  and  third  sections  in  the  laws  of  Illinois!  ( Seepa¬ 
ges  128,  129,  130.) 

All  deeds  and  conveyances  which  shall  be  made  and  executed 
within  this  district  [territory]  of  or  concerning  any  lands  or  he¬ 
reditaments  therein,  or  whereby  the  same  may  be  in  any  way 


*  V*d  ZaDt’s  description  of  the  military  land*. 


292 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


effected  in  law  or  equity,  shall  he  acknowledged  by  one  of  the 
grantors  or  bargainers,  or  proved  by  one  or  more  of  the  subscri¬ 
bing  witnesses  to  such  deed  before  one  of  the  judges  of  the  gen¬ 
eral  [superior]  court,  or  before  one  of  the  justices  of  the  court  of 
common  pleas*  of  the  district  [county]  where  the  lands  surveyed 
lie.  and  shall  be  recorded  in  the  recorder’s  offic  e  of  the  district 
[county]  where  such  lands  or  hereditaments  are  lying  and  be¬ 
ing,  within  twelve  months f  after  the  execution  of  such  deed  or 
conveyance,  and  every  such  deed  and  conveyance,  that  shall  at 
any  time  after  the  publication  hereof  be  made  and  executed,  and 
which  shall  not  be  proved  and  recorded  as  aforesaid,  shall  he 
adjudged  fraudulent  and  void  against  any  subsequent  purchaser, 
or  mortgagee  for  a  valuable  consideration,  unless  such  deed  or 
conveyance  be  recorded  as  aforesaid,  before  the  proving  and  re¬ 
cording  of  the  deed  or  convey  ance  under  which  such  subsequent 
purchaser  or  mortgagee  shall  claim. 

It  shall  and  may  be  lawful  for  any  judge  of  the  court  of  com. 
nt on  pleas  [circuit  court]  within  this  territory,  or  for  any  justice 
of  the  peace  of  the  district,  [county]  where  the  land  lies,  to  take 
the  examination  of  witnesses  to  any  deed  or  conveyance,  or  the 
acknowledgment  of  grantors  in  any  deed  or  conveyance  for  lands 
in  the  manner  and  torm  as  is  provided  by  an  act,  entitled  “  An 
act  for  establishing  recorders’  offices  ” 

The  clerks  of  the  circuit  courts  in  their  respective  counties, 
shall  have  the  same  power  of  taking  the  acknowledgment  and 
proof  of  deeds  and  conveyances  of  lands  and  tenements,  lying  in 
any  part  of  this  territory,  as  any  judge  of  the  superior  or  circuit 
courts  in  this  territory,  or  any  justice  of  the  peace  of  the  county 
where  the  lands  lie,  have  now  by  law.  Provided ,  such  acknowl¬ 
edgment  or  proof  he  attested  by  said  clerk  under  his  official 
seal. 

AH  deeds  and  conveyances  of  any  lands  or  tenements  in  this 
territory,  made  and  executed,  hy  any  persons  not  residing  with¬ 
in  this  territory ,  which  shall -be  acknowledged  or  proved  before 
any  court  of  record,  and  certified  under  the  seal  of  such  court 
of  record  ;  and  all  such  deeds  and  conveyances  made  and  exe¬ 
cuted  hy  such  persons  not  residing  in  this  territory,  as  shall  he 


*  See  post  ra. 


f  See  post  ea- 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


293 


acknowledged  or  proved  before  any  mayor,  chief  magistrate,  or 
other  officer  of  any  city,  town  or  place,  where  such  deeds  or 
conveyances  shall  be  made  or  executed,  and  certified  under  the 
common  or  public  seal  of  such  city,  town  or  place,  where  they 
have  a  public  seal,  if  not  under  the  private  seal  of  such  mayor, 
chief  magistrate  or  other  public  officer,  shall  be  as  valid  and  ef¬ 
fectual  in  law,  as  if  the  same  had  been  acknowledged  or  proved 
before  any  judge  of  the  superior  or  circuit  courts  in  this  territo¬ 
ry,  or  before  any  justice  of  the  peace  of  the  county  where  the 
lands  or  tenements  lie 

From  and  after  the  taking  effect  of  this  act,  [1st  April,  1817] 
in  all  cases  where  any  person  shall  purchase  any  real  estate  with¬ 
in  this  territory,  from  any  person  having  the  equitable,  but  not 
the  legal  title  thereof,  and  which  purchase  shall  be  attested  by  a 
deed  in  the  form  of  a  deed  and  conveyance,  or  by  a  bond  to  make 
a  tide  to  the  real  estate  so  sold,  or  by  any  oilier  instrument  of 
writing,  signed  by  the  party  to  be  charged  therewith,  or  by  any 
other  person  duly  authorised  to  sign  the  same  for  him,  it  shall 
and  may  be  lawful  for  the  person  so  purchasing,  after*  proving 
the  execution  thereof,  to  exhibit  the  said  deed,  bond  or  instru¬ 
ment  in  writing,  to  be  recorded  in  the  recorder’s  office  in  the 
same  county,  wherein  the  said  real  estate  is  situated,  where  it 
shall  be  received  and  r  ecor  ded  in  the  same  manner  and  upon  the 
same  conditions  as  are  provided  by  law  for  mesne  conveyances, 
and  any  such  deed,  bond,  or  instrument  in  writing  so  recorded, 
shall  impart,  from  the  day  of  recording  the  same,  full  and  per  ¬ 
fect  notice  to  all  persons  of  the  sale  of  the  land  therein  mention¬ 
ed,  and  all  subsequent  purchasers  of  the  same  land,  shall  be 
deemed  and  held  in  law  and  equity  to  the  purchasers,  with  no¬ 
tice  of  the  prior  sale,  and  shall  gain  no  right  to  the  prejudice  of 
the  first  purchaser. 

All  deeds,  conveyances,  bonds  and  other  obligations  for  lands, 
tenements  or  hereditaments  hereafter  made  and  proven  or  ac¬ 
knowledged  before  any  competent  authority,  shall  be  recorded 
in  the  county  in  which  such  lands,  tenements  or  hereditaments 
are  situate,  within  three  months  from  the  date  thereof,  or  the 
same  shad  be  void  against  subsequent  purchasers,  so  recording 
the  said  deeds,  conveyances,  bonds,  or  other  obligations  within 
the  time  prescribed  by  this  section. 


294 


GAZETTEER  OP  MISSOURI. 


All  deeds,  conveyances,  bonds  and  obligations,  for  tbe  con¬ 
veyance  of  lands,  tenements  or  hereditaments,  lying  and  being 
situated  in  this  territory,  and  the  right  of  dower  thereto  and 
thereto  and  therein,  may  be  acknowledged  before  any  justice  of 
the  peace  in  this  territory  in  the  manner  and  under  the  same  re¬ 
strictions  as  are  now  provided  by  law. 

Extracts  from  the  same.  Title ,  “  Recorder.” 

The  same  precisely  as  the  fourth  section  in  laws  of  Illinois. 
( Sec  page  130.J 

From  the  same.  Title ,  66  Fees.” 

Recorder’s  (now  clerk  of  circuit  court’s)  fees. 

For  recording  any  deed,  mortgage,  or  other  instru¬ 
ment,  per  sheet  of  one  hundred  words,  go  1 5 

Certificate  and  seal,  0  20 

From  the  same .  Title ,  “  Revenue.” 

There  shall  also  be  paid  on  each  deed  or  mortgage  recorded,  a 
tax  of  fifty  cents,  to  be  paid  down. 

LAWS  CONCERNING  TAXES. 

From  the  Digest.  Title  Revenue 

There  shall  be  levied  and  collected  as  a  territorial  tax,  on  all 
lands  within  this  territory  claimed  as  a  complete  title,  and  on 
all  lands  confirmed  or  granted  by  the  board  of  commissioners, 
or  the  recorder  of  land  titles  of  this  territory,  and  on  all  lands 
claimed  or  confirmed  by  any  act  of  congress,  a  tax  of  sixty  cents 
for  every  hundred  arpents,  and  so  in  proportion  for  a  greater  or 
less  quantity. 

All  lands  hereby  made  taxable,  and  owned  or  claimed  by  non¬ 
residents,  shall  be  entered  or  listed  by  such  non-resident,  his, 
her,  or  their  agent,  with  the  auditor  of  public  accounts  for  this 
territory,  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  July  next.  And  the  au¬ 
ditor  shall  keep  a  book,  in  which  he  shall  carefully  enter  each 
and  every  tract  or  claim  of  land  hereby  made  taxable,  and  own¬ 
ed  or  claimed  by  non-residents,  stating  the  nature  of  the  claim, 
the  quantity  of  land,  the  county  and  water  course  where  the  same 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  29£> 

is  situated.  And  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  auditor,  in  all  cases 
where  the  lands  are  owned  or  claimed  by  non-residents  hereby 
made  taxable,  and  not  listed  or  entered  with  him  for  taxation  as 
aforesaid,  to  list  and  enter  the  same  himself,  from  the  best  in¬ 
formation  he  can  procure,  which  it  is  hereby  made  his  duty  as 
far  as  practicable  to  acquire.  And  the  said  auditor  shall,  on  or 
before  the  first  da)'  of  August  in  every  year,  forward  to  the 
sheriff  or  collector  of  each  county  in  this  territory,  a  list  of  lands 
owned  or  claimed  by  non-residents,  situated  in  his  county, 
whereupon  the  sheriff  or  collector  shall  be  bound  to  receipt  there¬ 
for  to  the  auditor,  and  proceed  to  the  collection  of  the  tax  due  on 
all  lands  contained  in  said  list,  and  pay  the  same  over  in  the 
same  manner,  and  under  the  same  regulations  and  penalties  as 
are  provided  by  this  act.  Passed  January  21,  1815. 

Where  any  tract  or  parcel  of  land  owned  or  claimed  by  any 
non-resident,  and  listed  with  the  auditor,  shall  he  sold  or  trans¬ 
ferred,  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  purchaser,  if  he  be  a  non-re¬ 
sident,  to  file  with  said  auditor  on  or  before  the  day  that  he 
makes  his  annual  list  to  forward  to  the  different  sheriffs  as 
aforesaid,  a  duly  certified  copy  of  his  or  her  deed  or  transfer, 
whereupon  the  auditor  shall  enter  or  list  the  same  for  taxation, 
in  the  name  of  the  purchaser.  And  no  sale,  change,  or  transfer 
of  any  tract  of  land  contained  in  the  auditor’s  list,  shall  in  any 
manner  affect  or  prevent  the  collection  of  taxes  due  thereon  at 
the  time  of  such  sale,  change  or  transfer. 

And  in  all  cases  where  the  sheriff  cannot  find  sufficient  per¬ 
sonal  property  whereon  to  levy  and  make  distress  for  the  pay¬ 
ment  of  taxes  according  to  the  provisions  of  this  act,  it  shall  and 
may  be  lawful  for  the  sheriff  to  sell  at  the  court-house  door  of 
the  county,  by  public  sale,  on  the  first  Monday  of  November 
annually,  so  much  of  each  tract  of  land  chargeable  for  taxes, 
as  will  he  sufficient  to  pay  the  amount  of  taxes  due  thereon. 
And  the  said  sheriff  shall,  previous  to  such  sale,  give  notice 
thereof,  at  least  sixty  days,  by  an  advertisement  in  some  news¬ 
paper  printed  in  this  terr  itory,  or  in  case  there  he  none  printed 
in  this  territory,  then  in  some  newspaper  printed  in  the  next  ad¬ 
joining  territory  or  state,  and  by  advertising  at  the  court-house 
door,  the  time  and  place  of  sale,  particularly  describing  the  land 
and  the  different  tracts  to  be  sold.  And  the  sheriff  shall  deliver 


296 


GAZETTEER  OP  MISSOURI. 


to  the  purchaser  a  certificate  of  the  quantity  of  land  sold,  de¬ 
scribing  therein  the  tract  which  was  chargeable  with  taxes. 
And  the  part  so  sold  shall  he  taken  as  near  as  may  be  in  a  square, 
and  it  shall  adjoin  one  or  other  of  the  outlines  or  corners  of  the 
survey  of  such  tract  of  land,  so  as  not  to  include  an  improvement 
if  to  be  avoided.  And  a  designation  of  the  parts  so  sold,  shall 
he  made  by  the  sheriff  at  the  time  of  such  sale.  And  in  case 
where  the  claim,  or  part  of  a  claim  of  land  sold  for  taxes  under 
this  act,  shall  not  have  been  surveyed  by  the  proper  authority  of 
the  United  States,  or  shall  be  so  uncertain  as  to  locality  or  iden¬ 
tity,  that  the  county  surveyor  cannot  ascertain  the  boundaries  of 
the  claim,  the  purchaser  shall  be  entitled  as  near  as  possible  to 
the  part  designated  by  the  sheriff’s  advertisement  for  the  sale  of 
such  land,  ami  the  land  itself  to  be  laid  off  as  soon  as  the  claim 
shall  be  identified. 

The  surveyor  of  the  county,  on  the  receipt  of  the  sheriff’s  cer¬ 
tificate  of  land  sold  for  taxes,  shall,  by  himself  or  deputy,  pro¬ 
ceed  to  survey  and  lay  off  the  quantity  of  land,  agreeable  to  said 
certificate,  asui  charge  the  expense  of  making  a  survey  and  plat 
thereof  to  the  purchaser,  or  his  or  her  heirs  or  assigns  ;  and  on 
the  plat  and  certificate  of  survey  being  presented  to  the  sheriff  or 
his  successors  in  office,  it  shall  be  his  duty  to  convey  the  same  to 
such  purchaser,  or  his  heirs  or*  assigns,  by  deed  in  due  form  of 
law  executed,  which  survey  and  deed  shall  vest  in  the  purchaser, 
or  his  or  her  heirs  or  assigns,  all  the  right,  title,  claim,  and  in¬ 
terest  to  the  said  lands,  (the  right  of  the  United  States  only  ex¬ 
cepted,)  to  the  part  so  sold.  But  the  said  sheriff  may  neverthe¬ 
less  convey  any  lot  or  tract  of  land  sold  for  taxes,  without  having 
the  same  surveyed,  when  the  whole  tract  or  lot  is  sold  :  Pro¬ 
vided,  That  if  any  person  or  persons,  his,  her,  or  their  lawful 
agent  or  attorney,  shall,  within  twelve  months  from  and  after 
the  day  of  sale,  pay  or  tender  to  the  said  purchaser,  his,  her,  or 
their  legal  heirs  or  representatives,  or  lawful  agent  or  attorney, 
the  amount  of  such  tax,  together  with  the  costs  of  sale  and  sur¬ 
vey,  and  one  hundred  per  cent  interest  per  annum  on  the  same, 
and  likewise  to  pay  to  the  purchaser  for  all  improvements  that 
are  made  by  said  purchaser  on  said  land,  at  their  just  and  real 
value,  his,  her,  or  their  lands  shall  therefrom  be  discharged  and 
redeemed  from  such  sale :  Provided  however,  That  nothing 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OP  TOWNS,  &C.  297 


herein  contained  shall  be  considered  in  law  as  a  bar  to  the  right 
or  equity  of  redemption,  which  any  infant,  person  of  unsound 
mind,  in  captivity,  or  beyond  the  limits  of  the  United  Slates,  or 
in  the  military  service  of  the  United  States,  ma)  have  in  the 
land  so  sold  :  And  prodded  also ,  That  the  tax  on  said  land,  to¬ 
gether  with  the  interest  thereon,  and  an  equitable  compensation 
for  improvements  made  on  said  land,  be  tendered  to  the  pur¬ 
chaser  or  his  assigns,  within  one  year  after  such  disabilities  be 
removed. 

The  lien  which  the  territory  has  on  any  tract  or  tracts  of  land, 
or  claims  thereto,  for  the  payment  of  taxes  imposed  ami  due 
thereon,  shall  not  be  affected  by  any  transfer  whatever;  and  all 
sales  of  any  tract  or  tracts  of  land,  or  claim  thereto,  by  the  she¬ 
riff  or  other  proper  officer,  according  to  the  provisions  of  the  act 
to  which  this  is  a  supplement,  shall  be  deemed  good  and  valid, 
in  whose  name  soever  thesaid  land  or  claim  thereto  shall  be  en¬ 
tered  or  sold,  unless  he,  she,  or  they  contesting  the  validity 
thereof,  shall  shew  that  the  tax  had  actually  been  paid  thereon, 
which  in  all  cases  shall  he  the  first  thing  required  of  any  one 
attempting  to  set  aside  a  sale  under  this,  or  the  act  to  winch  this 
is  a  supplement. 

If  any  tract  of  land,  or  claim  thereto  of  either  residents  or 
non-residents,  will  not,  when  exposed  to  sale  as  aforesaid,  sell 
for  the  taxes  and  costs  due  thereon,  it  shall  be  struck  off  to  the 
territory,  who  shall  be  considered  the  purchaser  thereof;  and  it 
shall  he  the  duty  of  the  sheriff  making  such  sale,  to  make  a  title 
for  the  same  to  the  governor  of  the  territory,  and  his  successors 
in  office  for  the  time  being,  in  trust  to  and  for  the  use  of  the  said 
territory,  in  such  manner  as  the  other  titles  are  by  him  made  to 
other  purchasers;  and  the  governor  shall,  on  such  titles  being 
made  to  him,  draw  on  the  territorial  treasurer  in  favour  of  the 
sheriff,  for  the  amount  of  all  costs  due  to  him  on  such  sales,  who 
shall  pay  the  same  accordingly. 

From  a  law  of  congress,  entitled  “An  act  establishing  a  separate 
territorial  government  in  the  southern  pari  of  the  territory  of 
Missouri  *9  passed  March  2,  1819. 

That  the  bounty  lands  granted,  or  hereafter  to  be  granted  for 

military  services  during  the  late  war,  shall,  while  they  continue 

SB 


I 


298  GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 

to  be  held  by  the  patentees  or  their  heirs,  remain  exempt  from 
all  taxes  for  the  term  of  three  year9  from  and  after  the  date  of 
the  patents  respectively. 

Missouriton ,  a  town  in  Ray  county,  laid  off  in  1819,  on  sec¬ 
tion  14,  township  51,  in  range  24,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mis¬ 
souri  river.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  line  body  of  land,  which  is 
rapidly  increasing  in  population.  On  the  opposite  side,  are 
large  quantities  of  stone  coal,  and  limestone.  The  bank  is  ele¬ 
vated,  and  protected  by  a  large  island  immediately  above,  which 
throws  the  current  on  the  other  side,  and  at  the  point  of  which  is 
a  safe  harbor  for  the  anchorage  of  boats.  A  ferry  has  been  es¬ 
tablished  from  the  town. 

Monroe,  a  post  town  in  Lincoln  county,  situated  on  the  Riviere 
au  Cuivre,  18  miles  from  St.  Charles,  and  3  west  of  the  Mississip¬ 
pi  river.  The  town  site  is  fine,  being  a  dry  sandy  soil.  The  Cui» 
vre  is  nav  igable  to  this  place,  and  the  town  is  surrounded  by  a 
country  of  rich  land,  partly  timbered  and  partly  prairie.  Above 
are  several  mill  seats. 

Moreau  creek ,  a  small  stream,  20  yards  in  width,  empties  into 
the  Missouri  on  the  right  side,  138  miles  above  its  mouth. 

Moscow ,  a  town  in  Lincoln  county,  is  handsomely  situated  on 
the  right  bank  of  Riviere  au  Cuivre,  10  miles  above  Monroe,  on 
the  road  from  St.  Charles  to  Salt  river. 

Mount  Vernon ,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Lillard,  situated  on  the 
Missouri,  half  a  mile  below  Talbot  creek,  about  12  miles  below 
Chenel  Ebert,  and  about  30  miles  below  Fort  Osage.  It  is  on  a 
high  bluff,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  river  and  the  adjacent 
country  for  some  distance.  The  surrounding  country  is  gene¬ 
rally  fertile,  but  is  rather  deficient  in  timber. 

Murphy’s  Settlement ,  a  flourishing  settlement  of  St.  Francois 
county,  extending  along  the  main  road  from  St.  Louis  to  Arkan¬ 
sas  and  Red  river.  There  is  a  post-office  here. 

Negro  fork,  a  considerable  branch  of  the  Merrimack  river. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS;  &C. 


299 


New  Bourbon ,  a  small  French  village,  situated  on  a  bluff*,  two 
miles  below  St.  Genevieve.  It  was  settled  about  the  same  time 
with  St.  Genevieve,  and  at  present  contains  about  50  or  60  hou¬ 
ses.  The  inhabitants  are  principally  French. 


New- London,  the  county  seat  of  Ralls,  situated  on  the  range 
line,  between  4  and  5  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian,  and  in 
township  56  north,  1  mile  south  of  Salt  river.  The  site  is  high 
and  commanding,  being  on  the  borders  of  a  prairie.  The  town 
contains  30  and  40  houses  and  cabins,  and  is  rapidly  increasing. 
It  possesses  some  advantages  ;  among  these,  are  good  mill  seats, 
quarries  of  building  stone,  abundance  of  timber,  and  numerous 
salt  licks  in  the  adjacent  country.  This  town  is  laid  off  into 
squares  of  2  acres  each,  which  are  again  subdiv  ided  into  4  lots 
each.  From  the  general  character  of  the  salt  river  country,  it 
appears  probable  that  this  will  become  a  point  of  some  conse¬ 
quence. 

New-London  is  in  lat.  39°  30'  north,  8  miles  southvvest.of  Sav- 
erton,  on  the  Mississippi,  and  75  miles  northwest  of  St.  Charles. 


New -Madrid,  a  post  town  of  New-Madrid  county,  situated  on 
the  Mississippi  river,  about  70  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio,  and  formerly  called  I’Jlnse  a9  la  gresse.  It  was  laid  out  in 
the  year  1787,  by  Col  G.  Morgan,  of  New-Jersey,  upon  a  very 
extensive  scale.  “  In  consequence  of  some  obstacles  to  his  de¬ 
signs,  created  by  the  Spanish  government,  he  finally  abandoned 
his  pursuits,  and  retired  from  the  country.  The  town  is  bound¬ 
ed  on  the  north  by  the  bayou  St.  John,  which  always  affords 
plenty  of- water,  and  on  the  south  by  a  creek,  which  heads  in  a 
cypress  swamp  in  the  rear  of  the  town,  and  is  general)}  destitute 
of  water  in  the  dry  seasons.  The  river  never  rises  so  high  as  to 
inundate  the  town  :  But  the  banks  of  it  are  very  unstable  ;  por¬ 
tions  of  them  annually  cave  in  ;  the  houses  were  originally  erec¬ 
ted  over  the  present  channel,  and  the  inhabitants  are  annually 
obliged  to  remove  some  of  them,  otherwise  they  would  be  des¬ 
troyed  ;  and  the  probability  is,  that  the  encroachments  of  the 
l  iver  will  eventually  scatter  the  population  of  this  place, 

“  The  town  was  originally  so  laid  out  as  to  extend,  as  the 
French  express  it,  forty  acres  in  length  along  the  river  $  the  back 


300 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


part  was  contracted  to  twenty  acres,  on  account  of  some  swamps, 
and  the  depth  was  sixteen  acres.  It  contained  ten  streets,  run¬ 
ning  parallel  with  the  river,  and  eighteen  others  crossing  at 
right  angles.  The  former  were  sixty  feet,  and  the  latter  forty- 
five  feet  in  breadth.  Six  squares  were  also  laid  out,  and  reserv¬ 
ed  for  the  use  of  the  town,  each  of  which  contained  two  acres. — 
A  street  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  breadth  was  likewise 
reserved  on  the  bank  of  the  river.”* * * § 

In  1799,  New-Madrid  was  in  a  flourishing  situation,  and  con¬ 
tained  upwards  of  800  inhabitants.  Since  thisjtime,  owing  to  the 
encroachments  of  the  river,  and  the  earthquakes  in  181 1  and  12, 
it  lias  been  constantly  declining.  T  he  public  works  and  several 
spacious  streets,  have  been  carried  away  by  the  former,  and  by 
the  latter,  large  ponds  of  water  have  formed  in  some  places,  and 
huge  heaps  of  earth  thrown  up  in  other's.  In  fine,  the  appear¬ 
ance  of  the  whole  plain  upon  which  the  town  was  laid  out,  is 
completely  changed  Houses,  gardens  and  fields  were  swallow¬ 
ed  up  by  this  subterraneous  concussion.  Many  of  the  inhabit¬ 
ants  were  exposed  to  the  inclemency  of  t he  w7eather,  without  shel¬ 
ter  and  w  ithout  protection.  The  horror  of  their  situation  cannot 
easily  be  pourt rayed.  The  earth  rolled  under  their  feet  like 
the  waves  of  the  sea,  and  opened  on  every  side,  and  each  ex¬ 
pected  I  he  next  moment  to  be  received  into  its  bosom. 

The  following  account,  of  some  of  the  effects  produced  by  these 
earthquakes,  is  extracted  from  a  valuable  article,!  contained  in 
the  American  Journal  of  Science  : 

“  On  rhe  6th  day  of  January,  1812,  during  the  earthquakes^ 
which  destroyed  New-Madrid,  and  which  were  felt  two  hundred 

*  Stoddard’s  Sketches  of'Louisiana. 

t  Notices  ofthe  geology,  mineralogy,  topography,  productions,  and  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  the 
regions  around  the  Mississippi  and  its  confluent  waters  $  in  a  letter  addressed  from  L.  Bringier,  Esq. 
of  Louisiana, to  the  Rev.  Elias  Corne  lius,.  In  Silliman’s  Journal  of  Science  and  the  Arts.  Vo!.  3- 

1821. 

§  Several  authors  have  asserted,  that  earthquakes  proceed  from  volcanic  causes  ;  but  although 
this  may  be  often  true,  the  earthquake  alluded  to  here,  must  have  another  cause.  Time,  perhaps, 
will  give  us  some  better  ideas  as  to  the  origin  of  these  e  traordinary  phenomena.  Tt  is  pro!  aole  that 
they  are  produced  in  different  instances  and  by  different  causes,  and  that  electricity  is  one  of  them. 
The  shocks  ofthe  earthquake  in  Louisiana  in  1812,  produced  emotions  and  sensations  much  resem¬ 
bling  >.h  se  of  a  strong  galvanic  battery.  It  will,  perhaps,  be  pertinent  to  observe,  that  this  earth¬ 
quake  took  place  after  a  long  succession  of  very  heavy  rains,  such  as  had  never  been  seen  before  in 
this  country.  Bringier. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  30 i 

miles  around,  I  happened  to  be  passing  in  its  neighborhood, 
where  the  principal  shock  took  place.  The  violence  of  the  earth¬ 
quake  having  disturbed  the  earthy  strata  impending  over  the 
subterranean  cavities,  existing  probably  in  an  extensive  bed  of 
wood,  highly  carbonized,  occ  asioned  the  whole  superior  mass  to 
settle.  This,  pressing  with  all  its  weight  upon  the  water  that 
had  tilled  the  lower  cav  ities,  occasioned  a  displacement  of  this 
fluid,  which  forced  its  passage  through,  blowing  up  the  earth 
with  loud  explosions.  It  rushed  out  in  all  quarters,  bringing 
with  it  an  enormous  quantity  of  carbonized  wood,  reduced  most¬ 
ly  into  dust,  which  was  ejected  to  the  height  of  from  ten  to  fifteen 
feet,  and  fell  in  a  black  shower,  mixed  with  the  sand,  which  its 
rapid  motion  had  forced  along  ;  at  the  same  time  (lie  roaring 
and  whistling  produced  by  the  impetuosity  of  the  air  escaping 
from  its  confinement,  seemed  to  increase  the  horrible  disorder 
of  the  trees,  which  every  where  encountered  eac  h  other,  being 
blown  up,  cracking,  and  splitting,  and  falling  by  thousands  at  a 
time.  In  the  mean  time,  the  surface  was  sinking,  and  a  black 
liquid  w  as  rising  to  the  belly  of  my  horse,  who  stood  motionless, 
struck  with  a  panic  of  terror. 

“  These  occurrences  occupied  nearly  two  minutes  ;  the  trees 
shaken  in  their  foundation,  kept  falling  here  and  there,  and  the 
w  hole  surface  of  the  country  remained  covered  with  holes,  which, 
to  compare  small  things  with  great,  resembled  so  many  craters 
to  volcanoes,  surrounded  with  a  ring  of  carbonized  wood  and 
sand,  which  rose  to  the  height  of  about  seven  feet. 

“  I  had  occasion,  a  few  months  after,  to  sound  the  depths  of 
several  of  these  holes,  and  found  them  not  to  exceed  twenty  feet ; 
but  I  must  remark  the  quicksand  had  washed  into  them.'  The 
country  here  was  formerly  perfectly  level,  and  covered  with  nu¬ 
merous  small  prairies  of  various  sizes,  dispersed  through  t he 
woods.  Now  it  is  covered  with  slaches,  (ponds)  and  sand-hills 
or  mounticules,  which  are  found  principally  where  the  earth  was 
formerly  the  lowest ;  probably  because  in  such  places  the  water 
broke  through  with  more  facility. 

“  A  circumstance  worth  noticing,  was  a  tendency  to  carboni¬ 
zation  that  1  perceived  in  all  vegetable  productions  soaking  in 
the  ponds,  produced  by  these  eruptions.  It  was  about  seven 
months  after  the  event  bad  taken  place,  that  I  had  occasion  to 


802 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI 


make  these  remarks  on  the  spot  before  mentioned.  The  same 
earthquake  produced  a  lake  between  St  Francis  and  Little  Prai¬ 
rie,  distant  twenty-seven  miles  from  the  Mississippi  river.  This 
lake  resembles  much  the  lake  on  Red  river,  inasmuch  as  the 
trees  are  standing  upright  in  all  of  them,  and  sunk  about  thirty 
feet  when  the  water  is  high.  They  are  all  evidently  modern 
lakes,  whose  beds  were,  not  long  since,  part  of  the  forest.”* 


*  In  addition  to  the  above,  I  here  subjoin  the  following  remarks  on  this  subject, 
made  by  Dr.  Drake  in  his  “Picture  of  Cincinnati  and  the  Miami  country.”  The  author 
first  proceeds  to  classify  the  shocks  as  follows': 

“  The  violence  of  the  different  earthquakes  is  best  indicated  by  their  efficiency  in  al¬ 
tering  the  structure  of  the  more  superficial  parts  of' the  earth,  and  in  agitating,  subvert¬ 
ing  or  destroying  the  bodies  which  they  support.  On  a  r.ompaiative  scale,  formed  from 
such  remarks,  at  this  place,  the  first  shock  of  the  Kith  December  1811,  that  of  ‘23d  Ja¬ 
nuary  1812,  and  the  first  on  the  7th  of  February,  occupy  above  the  rest  a  decided  eleva¬ 
tion,  and  constitute  the  first  class.  To  the  second  class  belong,  the  shock  at  20  minutes 
past  7  o’clock  A.  M  December  16  ;  that  on  the  27th  of  January  ;  and  that  at  40  minutes 
past  10  o’clock  P.  M.  on  the  7th  of  February.  Of  the  remainder,  one  half,  by  estima¬ 
tion,  may  be  referred  to  a  fourth  class,  composed  of  those  which  were  felt  only  by  per¬ 
sons  not  in  action  ;  and  the  remainder  will  constitute  a  third  class,  of  intermediate  vio¬ 
lence.  The  numerous  tremors  and  ebullitions  that  were  detected  by  pendulums,  and 
the  delicate  sensations  of  a  few  nice  observers,  when  at  perfect  rest,  may  constitute  the 
fifth  and  lowest  order  of  these  multiplied  agitations  ” 

The  author  then  makes  the  following  general  remarks: 

“1.  The  original  focus  of  these  concussions  was  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  betw  een 
New-Madrid  and  the  Little  Prairie,  in  north  latitude  36  degrees,  and  west  longitude 
from  Washington  12  degrees  30  minutes;  but  after  the  second  year  of  their  duration, 
it  seems  to  have  ascended  the  Mississippi  to  the  Ohio,  and  then  advanced  up  that  river 
about  100  miles,  to  the  United  States’  saline  ;  at  which  place  shocks  have  been  felt  al¬ 
most  every  day  for  nearly  two  years. 

“2.  They  were  vastly  more  numerous,  during  the  same  period,  on  the  Mississippi 
than  the  Ohio.  Not  a  single  day  passed,  from  the  16th  of  December  to  the  ensuing 
summer,  without  several  .shocks  along  the  former  of  these  rivers.  Ever,  at  St.  Genevieve, 
200  miles  above  the  principal  scene,  during  a  period  of  seventy  days,  D.  Roe,  Esq.  count¬ 
ed  more  than  100  shocks. 

“3.  The  shock-  at  Cincinnati,  which  have  been  referred  to  the  first  and  second 
classes,  were  generally  the  most  violent  on  the  Mississippi. 

“4.  The  kind  of  convulsion  on  the  Mississippi,  was  different  from  that  experienced 
here.  The  latter,  it  lias  already  been  stated,  was  generally  an  undulation  :  the  former, 
from  the  most  authentic  reports,  appears  to  have  been  a  vertical  explosion.  The  cause 
acted  directly  upwards,  and  elevated  to  the  surtace  of  the  earth,  sand,  and  various  ex¬ 
traneous  fossils,  which  had  been  buried  in  the  alluvion  of  the  river  for  unknown  ages. 

“  5.  The  convulsion  w'as  greater  along  the  Mississippi,  as  well  as  along  the  Ohio,  than 
in  the  uplands.  The  strata  in  both  vallies  are  loose.  The  more  tenacious  layers  of 
clay  and  loam  spread  over  the  adjoining  hills,  many  of  which  are  composed  of  horizon¬ 
tal  limestone,  suffered  but  little  derangement. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


303 


It  may  be  observed,  that  congress,  at  a  subsequent  session, 
granted  to  those  who  bad  suffered  by  the  earthquakes  iri  the 
county  of  New-Madrid.  an  equivalent  of  land  in  other  parts  of 
the  s  ate,  the  sale  of  which  is  authorised  by  law. 

It  has  been  previously  stated  that  New-Madrid  has  been 
declining  for  many  years.  The  following  description,  given  by 

an  eminent  traveller,*  will  illustrate  the  truth  of  the  remark. 

\ 

“  New-Madrid  is  an  insignificant  French  hamlet,  containing 
little  more  than  20  log  houses  and  stores,  miserably  supplied, 
the  goods  of  w  hich  are  retailed  at  exorbitant  prices  :  lor  example, 
18  cents  per  pound  for  lead,  which  costs  seven  cents  at  Hercu¬ 
laneum  ;  salt,  five  dollars  per  bushel  ;  sugar,  31  1-4  cents  per 
pound  ;  whiskey,  one  dollar  25  cents  per  gallon  ;  apples,  25 
cents  per  dozen  ;  corn,  50  cents  per  bushel  ;  fresh  butter,  87  1-2 
cents  per  pound  ;  eggs,  the  same  per  dozen  ;  pork,  six  dollars 
per  hundred  ;  beef,  live  dollars.  Still  the  neighbouring  land 
appears  to  be  of  good  quality  ;  but  people  have  been  discouraged 
from  settling  in  consequence  of  the  earthquakes,  which,  besides 
the  memorable  one  of  1811,  are  very  frequently  experienced, 
two  or  three  oscillations  being  sometimes  felt  in  a  day.” 

“6.  All  the  principal  shocks  on  the  Mississippi,  were  attended  or  preceded  by  an 
explosive  sound;  which  the  people  of  that  region  denominate  subterranean  thunder. 
This  noise  was  generally  heard  to  the  southwest— which  my  correspondent,  the  honour, 
able  Stanley  Griswold,  (who  has  made  many  observations  on  these  phenomena,)  as¬ 
cribes  to  the  ground  in  the  valliesof  our  rivers  being  lower  in  that  direction. 

“7.  The  stronger  shocks  of  this  great  series  were  felt  in  every  part  of  the  U.  States; 
and  their  violence  was  generally  in  the  inverse  ratio  of  their  distance  from  the  focus. 
Earthquakes  were  experienced,  also,  during  the  same  years,  but  not  on  the  same  days, 
in  Europe,  the  West  Indies,  and  South  America. 

“8.  As  some  time-pieces  are  set  to  solar,  and  others  to  mean  time,  and  as  most  of 
them  are  inaccurate,  it  is  difficult  to  determine  the  precise  date  of  any  of  the  shocks; 
but  from  the  best  information  that  can  be  collected,  their  absolute  time,  in  different  parts 
of  the  United  States,  was  the  same,  or  nearly  so. 

41  9.  The  shocks  at  the  United  States’  saline,  for  a  year  past,  have,  as  before  stated, 
been  almost  daily;  and  are  frequently  attended  with  a  loud  noise  under  ground.  But 
they  are  so  circumscribed  in  their  geographical  extent,  that  hut  few  of  them  are  felt  even 
at  Shawneetowu,  on  the  bank  of  the  Ohio,  only  12  miles  distant.  As  late,  however,  as 
the  month  of  June  of  the  present  year,  several  of  these  concussions  were  so  violent  as  to 
be  felt  at  the  place  just  mentioned,  at  Kaskaskia,  and  on  the  Wabash  river,  40  utiles 
from  its  confluence  with  the  Ohio. 

*  Mr.  Thomas  Nut  tall.  See  hi*  travels  into  the  Arksuwa  territory.  Philad.  1821. 


304 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


“  The  site  of  the  town,  as  we  learn  from  La  Vega,  the  histo¬ 
rian  of  Soto,  bears  unequivocal  marks  of  an  aboriginal  station  ; 
still  presenting  the  remains  of  some  low  mounds,  w  hich  as  usual 
abound  with  fragments  of  earthen  ware.” 

The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  New-Madrid  is  very  fertile. 
It  consists  of  a  vast  plain,  handsomely  diversified  with  wood¬ 
land  and  prairie.  There  are,  however,  several  ponds,  which 
in  dry  seasons  become  stagnant,  and  give  rise  to  bilious  disor¬ 
ders.  But  this  place  is  perhaps  less  subject  to  these  than  would 
naturally  be  supposed.  Indeed,  it  is  asserted  by  some  that  its 
situation  is  healthy  ;  but  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  this  opinion 
is  founded  on  a  limited  knowledge  of  facts.  Mr.  Brackenridge 
observes,  “New-Madrid  is  considered  healthy,  and  from  my 
own  experience,  1  am  convinced  of  the  justness  of  this  character. 
There  is  nothing  more  delightful  than  a  promenade  on  a  summer 
evening,  on  the  smooth  green  along  the  bank.  The  climate  is 
mild  and  agreeable  :  in  the  hottest  days  of  summer,  a  cool  and 
refreshing  breeze  is  felt  from  the  river.  The  spring  is  compa¬ 
ratively  early.  I  gathered  strawberries  here  on  the  20th  of 
April,  and  at  St.  Louis  in  June.” 

Near  this  place  are  a  number  of  mounds,  and  among  them  is 
one  of  the  largest  in  the  western  country.  It  is  about  twelve 
hundred  feet  in  circumference,  and  forty  in  height :  it  is  level  on 
the  top,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  ditch  several  feet  in  width.  It 
is  situated  on  the  margin  of  a  beautiful  lake,  four  or  five  miles 
below  the  town. 

One  of  the  authors  before  quoted,*  observes,  “  I  saw,  in  New- 
Madrid,  a  mammoth  grinder,  which  had  just  been  found  by  one 
Frangais  Lesieur.  Along  with  it  were  several  other  teeth,  be¬ 
longing  to  the  same  jaw.  It  was  found  about  three  miles  be¬ 
low  the  village,  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi ;  but  it  was  very 
damp  and  very  soft.  This  kind  of  fossil  is  frequently  met  with 
on  the  porphyry  ridges,  bordering  in  many  places  a  portion  of 
the  grand  valley  which  is  included  in  the  state  of  Missouri.” 

In  fine,  in  regard  to  its  antiquities,  no  part  of  Missouri  is  more 
interesting  than  the  vicinity  of  New-Madrid. 


'  Bringicr,  in  Silliman’s  Journal, as  before  mentioned. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


305 


Newport ,  a  small  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Franklin 
county,  situated  at  the  junction  of  Buffaloe  river  with  the  Mis¬ 
souri,  in  township  45  north,  in  range  2,  west  of  the  5th  princi¬ 
pal  meridian.  It  contains  SO  or  40  houses,  and  the  number  is 
gradually  increasing.  The  neighbouring  lands  are  generally 
rough,  hilly,  and  unproductive. 

Newport  is  in  latitude  38°  35',  about  50  miles  southwest  of  St. 
Charles. 

Nightingale  creek9  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the  leftside, 
140  miles  above  its  mouth.  ( Lewis  and  Clark.  J 

North  river9  a  stream  of  Ralls  county,  runs  in  an  easterly  di¬ 
rection,  and  falls  into  the  Mississippi,  in  the  southern  part  of 
township  58  north,  5  west,  near  South  river.  The  two  streams 
are  generally  called  Two  Rivers.  The  lands  on  this  river  are 
generally  very  fertile.  It  is  about  75  yards  wide  at  its  mouth. 

Noyer  creek9  a  trifling  stream,  runs  an  easterly  course  through 
Pike  county,  and  empties  into  the  Mississippi,  two  miles  be¬ 
low  the  mouth  of  Salt  river.  I  t  is  principally  noted  on  account 
of  the  singular  ancient  works  found  on  its  banks,  about  two  miles 
southwest  of  the  town  of  Louisiana.  They  are  built  of  stone, 
with  great  regularity,  and  their  site  is  high  and  commanding, 
from  which  I  am  led  to  infer,  that  they  were  intended  for  places 
of  defence.  Works  of  a  similar  kind  arc  found  on  the  banks  of 
Buffaloe  creek,  and  on  the  Osage  river.  They  certainly  form 
a  class  of  antiquities  entirely  distinct  from  the  walled  towns, 
fortifications,  barrows,  or  mounds.  The  regularity  of  their 
form  and  structure  favors  the  conclusion,  that  they  were  the 
work  of  a  more  civilized  race  than  those  who  erected  the  for¬ 
mer — a  race  familiar  with  the  rules  of  architecture,  and  perhaps 
with  a  perfect  system  of  warfare.  The  annexed  engraving  will 
illustrate  the  form  of  these  works. 

Fig .  1,  faces  the  southeast. 

abcd  Outer  wall,  18  inches  in  thickness;  length  56  feet ; 
breadth  22  feet. 

(All  the  walls  consist  of  rough  unhewn  stone,  and  appear 

39 


306 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


to  have  been  constructed  with  remarkable  regularity.  Although 
they  are  at  present  considerably  decayed,  their  form  is  still  dis¬ 
tinct.) 

E  is  a  chamber,  3  feet  in  width,  which  was  no  doubt  arch¬ 
ed  the  whole  way,  as  some  part  of  the  arch  still  remains. 
It  is  made  in  the  manner  represented  in  Fig.  3,  and  is  seldom 
more  than  hve  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  ground  ;  hut  as  it  is 
filled  with  rubbish,  it  is  impossible  to  say  what  was  its  original 
height. 

% 

r  is  a  chamber,  4  feet  wide,  and  in  some  places  the  remains  of 
a  similar  arch  still  remain. 

g  is  a  chamber,  12  feet  in  width,  at  the  extremity  of  which  are 
the  remains  of  a  furnace. 

h  is  a  large  room,  walled  with  two  entrances,  i  and  k.  It  is 
covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  trees. 

The  walls  are  at  present  from  two  to  five  feet  in  height. 

One  of  the  trees  in  the  work  is  two  feet  in  diameter. 

Fig .  2,  is  a  smaller  work,  about  80  rods  due  cast  from  the  for¬ 
mer. 

a  and  c  are  two  chambers,  without  any  apparent  communi¬ 
cation  with  b. 

b  is  a  room  nearly  circular,  with  one  gate  or  entrance. 

The  walls  are  similar  to  the  former. 

For  the  account  of  these  interesting  antiquities,  I  am  chiefly 
indebted  to  the  Rev.  S.  Giddings,  of  St.  Louis,  who  visited  them 
a  few  years  since,  and  sketched  a  plan,  of  which  this  is  a  copy. 
It  should  be  remarked,  that  in  the  passage  g,  ( Fig  l)  several 
human  bones  have  recently  been  found. 

Osage ,  a  town  in  Cole  county,  situated  at  the  confluence  of 
Osage  river  with  the  Missouri.  The  site  is  fine,  and  the  sur¬ 
rounding  country,  in  many  places,  fertile;  in  others,  hilly 
and  barren.  There  is  an  abundance  of  good  timber  in  the  vici¬ 
nity,  among  which  is  pine  and  cedar.  This  place  is  as  yet 
nearly  in  a  stair  of  nature  ;  but  it  would  appear  probable  from 
its  situation  at  the  junction  of  two  large  streams,  and  its  vicinity 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


307 


(o  the  permanent  capital  of  the  state,  that  it  was  destined  to  be¬ 
come  a  town  of  some  importance, 

Osage  fork  of  the  Merrimack ,  heads  near  the  Osage,  and 
empties  into  the  Merrimack  on  the  left  side.  It  is  a  small 
stream,  and  crosses  the  road  leading  from  the  settlements  on 
Fourche  a  Courtois  to  those  on  the  Gasconade. 

Osage  river ,  rises  in  the  range  of  hills,  which  separates  the 
waters  of  the  Kansas  from  those  of  the  Arkansas,  near  the  junc¬ 
tion  of  the  Sinoakv  Hill  fork  with  the  former.  Its  course,  which 
is,  however,  very  devious,  is  generally  a  little  north  of  east,  and 
it  empties  into  the  Missouri,  about  130  miles  above  its  mouth. 
A  considerable  number  of  tributaries  empty  into  it  from  the 
north  and  south,  the  principal  of  which  are  Little  Osage,  Grand 
River,  Yungar  or  Meungar,  Cooks,  and  Vermilion  rivers. 

“The  Osage  affords,  in  its  whole  length  large  bodies  of  the 
choicest  prairie  land,  interspersed  with  wood  land,  and  occasion¬ 
ally  with  hills,  and  is  navigable  for  moderate  sized  boats  for  se¬ 
veral  hundred  miles.  Its  banks  afford  immense  beds  of  stone 
coal,  and  some  iron  and  lead  is  found,  and  its  upper  forks  reach 
into  the  country  of  the  Pawnees — a  country  rich  in  salt,  it  is 
a  beautiful  stream,  and  situated  in  a  delightful  climate  ;  and 
when  its  borders  are  opened  for  emigration,  and  its  resources 
properly  drawn  forth,  will  support  a  vast  population  and  a  pro¬ 
fitable  trade.  Of  this  stream,  emigrants,  and  the  people  of 
this  territory  generally,  know  less  than  their  interests  demand. 
Its  fertile  soil,  genial  climate,  and  great  length,  entitle  it  to  the 
rank  of  one  of  the  first  tributaries  of  the  Missouri.”  ( School¬ 
craft.  J 

The  Osage  owes  its  name  to  a  nation  inhabiting  its  hanks  at 
a  considerable  distance  from  the  Missouri.  Their  present  name, 
however,  seems  to  have  originated  among  the  French  traders  ; 
for  among  themselves  and  their  neighbours  they  are  called  Wa- 
bashes.  They  number  between  12  and  1300  warriors,  and  con¬ 
sist  of  three  tribes :  the  Great  Osages,  of  about  500  warriors, 
living  in  a  village  on  the  south  hank  of  the  river ;  the  Little 
Osages,  of  nearly  half  that  number,  residing  at  the  distance  of 
six  miles  from  them  ,*  and  the  Arkansas  band,  a  colony  of  Osages 
of  600  warriors,  who  left  them  some  years  ago,  under  the  com- 


GAZETTEER  OF'  MISSOURI. 


308 

mand  of  a  chief  called  Big  Foot,  and  settled  on  Vermilion  river, 
a  branch  of  the  Arkansas.  In  person,  the  Osages  are  among 
the  largest  and  best  formed  Indians,  and  are  said  to  possess  fine 
military  capacities ;  but  residing  as  they  do  in  villages,  and 
having  made  considerable  advance  in  agriculture,  they  seem  less 
addicted  to  war  than  their  northern  neighbours,  to  whom  the 
use  of  rifles  gives  a  great  superiority.  ( Lewis  and  Ctark.J 

Ancient  works  exist  on  this  river,  as  elsewhere  :  the  remains 
of  mounds  and  fortifications  are  almost  every  where  to  be  seen. 
One  of  the  largest  mounds  in  this  country  has  been  thrown  up 
on  this  stream,  within  the  last  30  or  40  years,  by  the  Osages, 
near  the  Great  Osage  v  illage,  in  honour  of  one  of  their  deceased 
chiefs.  This  fact  proves  conclusively  the  original  object  of  these 
mounds,  and  refutes  the  theory  that  they  must  necessarily  have 
been  erected  by  a  race  of  men  more  civilized  than  the  present 
tribes  of  Indians.  \\  ere  it  necessary,  numerous  other  facts 
might  be  adduced  to  prove  that  the  mounds  are  no  other  than 
the  tombs  of  their  great  men. 

Mammoth  bones  are  said  to  have  been  found  on  the  banks  of 
the  Osage,  but  their  precise  locality  is  not  known.  It  is,  how¬ 
ever,  certain  that  they  have  been  found,  both  on  the  Merrimack, 
and  near  the  waters  of  the  Osage.  Mr.  Bradbury  observes, 
66  Gen.  Clark  showed  me  a  tooth  brought  from  the  interi  r  :  it 
\vas  a  grinder,  and  belonged  to  the  animal  mentioned  by  Cuvier, 
and  called  by  him  mastodonte  avec  dents  carves. 

Osage  Woman  river ,  see  Femme  Osage. 

Otter  river ,  see  Loutre  river. 

Owen’s  station ,  a  settlement  in  St.  Louis  county,  west  of  St. 
Ferdinand.  Here  was  formerly  a  small  fort  and  station,  for  the 
defence  of  the  inhabitants  against  the  Indians. 

Palmyra,  a  post  town  in  Ralls  county,  laid  out  in  1820,  on  the 
corners  of  sections  23,  24,  25  and  26,  of  township  58  north,  in 
range  6,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian.  It  contains  10  or 
12  houses,  among  which  are  a  store  and  tavern.  The  surround¬ 
ing  country  is  fertile  and  well  timbered.  About  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  town  are  two  good  mill-seats,  between  North  and 
South  rivers. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  309 

Park  river ,  a  branch  of  the  Osage,  emptying  in  on  the  right 
side. 

Peno  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Pike  county,  runs  a  northerly 
course,  and  empties  into  Salt  river  on  the  right  side,  about  25 
miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi. 

Perrique  creek ,  a  small  mill  stream  of  St.  Charles  county,  run¬ 
ning  an  easterly  course,  and  emptying  into  the  Mississippi  about 
15  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois.  There  are  several  fine 
mill-seats  on  this  stream,  and  the  country  on  its  borders  is  ge- 
%.  nerally  very  fertile.  Near  the  Mississippi  it  is  heavily  timber¬ 
ed  ;  in  other  parts,  prairie  land  is  handsomely  interspersed. 

Perry  sville,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Perry  county,  laid  out  in 
1822.  It  is  10  miles  west  of  the  Barrens.  No  improvement  has 
as  yet  been  made. 

Petite  Saline ,  (Salt  fork  of  La  Mine  river,)  runs  through  the 
northern  part  of  Saline  county,  and  empties  into  La  Mine  river 
about  nine  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Missouri.’  There 
are  a  number  of  large  and  valuable  salines  on  this  stream,  and 
much  of  the  land  on  it  is  first  rate.  La  Mine  river  is  navigable 
to  the  mouth  of  Salt  fork,  for  boats  of  any  size.  The  water  is 
said  to  be  impregnated  with  salt  as  strongly  as  sea-water,  from 
the  month  of  June  to  that  of  November. 

Pine  fork ,  (Big  and  Little)  branches  of  the  Gasconade,  empty¬ 
ing  in  on  the  right  side. 

Pine  river ,  see  Big  North  fork  of  White  river, 

Pinkney ,  a  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Montgomery 
county,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Missouri,  about  two  and  a  half 
miles  above  where  the  line  dividing  ranges  2  and  3,  west  of  the 
5th  principal  meridian,  strikes  said  river.  The  site  is  low,  and 
in  some  seasons  of  the  year  it  is  difficult  to  reach  it,  on  account 
of  the  number  of  sloughs  and  ponds  by  which  it  is  surrounded. 
It  contains  eight  or  nine  houses  and  cabins.  The  county  seat 
will  probably  be  removed  to  a  more  central  and  eligible  situation. 

This  town  is  in  latitude  38°  35'  north ;  8  miles  above  New- 


310 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


port,  and  about  55  mile**  southwest  of  St.  Charles.  It  is  sur¬ 
rounded  by  a  fertile  district  of  country,  watered  by  Lost  and 
Charrette  creeks. 

Flatten  creek  runs  an  easterly  course  through  Jefferson  coun¬ 
ty.  and  empties  into  the  Mississippi  7  or  8  miles  below  Hercu¬ 
laneum. 

Poke  bayou ,  a  branch  of  White  river,  a  small  part  of  which  is 
included  within  the  boundaries  of  this  state. 

Portage  des  Sioux ,  a  village  of  St.  Charles  county,  inhabited 
pri  m  ipally  by  the  French.  It  is  situated  on  the  Mississippi, 
about  five  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois.  At  this  place 
the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  rivers  are  about  half  a  mile  apart, 
and  it  is  contemplated  at  some  future  time  to  unite  them  by  means 
of  a  canal,  which  would  be  of  immense  advantage,  not  only  to 
this  village,  but  to  the  surrounding  country. 

Portage  des  Sioux  derived  its  name  from  the  following  cir¬ 
cumstance  : — The  Sioux  and  a  tribe  of  the  Missouris  being  at 
war,  a  party  of  the  former  descended  the  Mississippi  on  a  pil¬ 
laging  expedition.  The  Missouris  wore  apprised  of  their  ap¬ 
proach,  and  ambushed  themselves  at,  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri 
in  considerable  numbers,  intending  to  take  their  enemies  by  sur¬ 
prise.  The  Sioux  being  more  cunning,  instead  of  descending 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  landed  at  tne  Portage,  took  their 
canoes  on  their  backs,  and  crossed  over  to  the  Missouri  several 
miles  above.  By  this  means  they  accomplished  the  object  of 
their  expedition,  and  returned  with  their  spoil  undiscovered; 
during  all  w  hich  time,  the  Missouris  were  anxiously  waiting  for 
them  at  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri. 

The  situation  of  Portage  des  Sioux  is  favourable  for  a  large 
town.  There  area  few  ponds  in  the  vicinity,  which  might  with 
little  expense,  be  completely  drained.  The  village  contains 
about  50  or  60  houses,  which  are  principally  inhabited  by  the 
French,  who  are  extremely  jealous  of  the  Americans,  and  are 
unwilling  to  sell  any  of  their  houses  or  lots.  This  place,  howev¬ 
er  is  considered  by  many  so  important,  that  it  cannot  long  re¬ 
main  in  this  situation.  These  prejudices  will  soon  vanish  before 
the  enterprise  and  industry  of  the  American  citizens. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


311 


Potosu  a  post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  Washington 
coutdv,  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  branch  of  Big  river.  With 
Mine  a  Burton,  which  was  an  old  settlement  in  the  immediate 
vicinity,  it  mav  consist  ofbO  buildings,  including  a  court  house, 
a  jail,  and  an  academy.  When  the  county  of  Washington  was 
separated  from  St.  Genevieve,  a  tract  of  land  of  40  acres  was 
laid  off  for  the  county  scat,  to  w  hich  the  above  name  was  given* 
Thi  s  lies  on  a  handsome  eminence,  a  Sittie  north  of  the  principal 
rivers.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  mining  dis¬ 
tricts,  and  is  surrounded  by  several  fine  bodies  of  good  farming 
land.  It  has  a  very  handsome  appearance,  although  not  so  thri¬ 
ving  as  formerly.  Here  are  several  stores,  distilleries  and  dour 
mills,  a  saw  mill,  and  several  lead  furnaces.  The  quantity  of 
lead  made  here  from  the  year  1798  to  1816,  was  9,360,000  lbs- 
C Schoolcraft.  J  For  3  or  4  after  1816,  the  yearly  amount  of  lead 
made  here  was  much  diminished,  in  consequence  ofthe  decrease 
of  the  demand.  During  the  last  year,  however,  a  greater  quan¬ 
tity  has  been  made  than  in  any  former  year.  The  people  of 
Missouri  have  now  began  to  learn,  that  much  of  their  wealth  lies 
in  the  earth,  and  that  it  requires  industry  and  enterprise  to  bring 
it  forth. 

In  1817,  an  academy  was  incorporated  in  this  place  under  the 
direction  of  seven  trustees,  who  are  elected  annually.  Every 
free  white  male  inhabitant,  of  21  years  and  upwards,  and  who 
shall  have  subscribed  and  paid  five  dollars  towards  said  acade¬ 
my,  and  have  resided  in  the  county  one  year  preceding  such 
election,  is  entitled  to  a  vote.  This  place,  and  the  surrounding 
country,  are  remarkable  for  their  healthiness.  Few  of  the 
fevers  which  prevail  in  many  other  parts  of  the  state  during  the 
summer  and  autumn,  are  observed  here.  A  few  cases  of  intermit¬ 
tent-fever  occur  during  the  spring,  but  they  are  generally  mild. 
Among  the  cattle,  however,  a  very  alarming  disease  prevails, 
called  the  mine  sickness ,  and  caused  no  doubt  by  their  licking  at 
the  lead  furnaces,  in  some  cases’ they  die  instantly  ;  in  others, 
tliev  are  seized  with  convulsions,  which  continue  for  some  time. 
Considering  the  importance  of  this  subject,  the  legislature  at 
their  last  session  passed  an  act,  the  provisions  of  which  are,  that 
the  owner  or  occupier  of  every  lead  furnace  shall  keep  the  same 
enclosed,  with  a  good  and  lawful  fence,  for  the  distance  of  at  least 


312 


GAZETTEER  OP  MISSOURI. 


ten  yards  from  any  part  of  the  said  furnace  or  works,  and  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  prevent  horses,  cattle  or  other  stock  from 
having  access  to  the  said  enclosure  ;  and  also  to  keep  the  said 
fences  and  enclosures  in  good  order  and  repair  during  the  term 
of  six  months,  after  such  furnaces  or  works  have  been  last  made 
use  of  for  the  smelting  of  lead.  A  heavy  penalty  follows  a  non- 
compliance  with  the  provisions  of  this  act. 

Potosi  is  in  latitude  37°  55'  north,  65  miles  southwest  of  St. 
Louis,  45  west  of  St.  Genevieve,  and  about  80,  nearly  south  of 
St.  Charles. 

Ramsay's  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Pike  county,  empties  into 
the  Mississippi  four  or  five  miles  below  Calumet  creek. 

Richxvood  settlement ,  contains  a  large  tract  of  first  rate  farm¬ 
ing  land,  and  is  situated  in  the  northern  part  of  Washington 
county,  near  the  line  between  it  and  Jefferson. 

Riviere  au  Cuivre ,  see  Cuivre  river. 

Riviere  au  Vase,  see  Big  and  Little  Muddy  rivers. 

Riviere  de  la  Pomme,  see  Apple  creek. 

Riviere  des  Peres,  (River  of  the  Fathers,)  a  small  stream  of 
St.  Louis  county,  runs  a  southeasterly  course,  and  empties  into 
the  Mississippi  below  the  village  of  Carondelet.  Its  banks  are 
generally  timbered  and  very  fertile ;  in  some  places  level,  in 
others  gently  undulating.  The  settlements  on  this  stream  wTere 
commenced  at  an  early  period  by  the  Jesuits,  from  which  cir¬ 
cumstance  it  received  its  name.  These  have  since  entirely 
abandoned  it,  and  they  have  been  succeeded  by  Frenchmen  and 
Americans.  Six  miles  west  of  St  Louis,  a  sulphur  spring  makes 
its  appearance  in  the  bed  of  this  stream,  opposite  to  a  high  bank, 
which  probably  contains  iron  ore.  The  water  has  the  taste  and 
smell  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  It  is  slightly  cathartic,  and 
powerfully  sudorific.  It  frequently  determines  to  the  skin  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  produce  an  eruption  over  the  whole  body. 
To  certain  valetudinarians  it  may  be  serviceable,  particularly 
those  affected  with  complaints  of  the  liver-  Many  of  the  inha¬ 
bitants  of  St.  Louis,  thus  affected,  visit  the  springs  during  the 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS;  &C. 


813 


summer  with  signal  advantage  ;  but  I  am  inclined  to  believe 
that  more  benefit  is  derived  from  the  removal  from  the  confined 
and  impure  air  of  the  town,  than  from  the  medicinal  effect  of  the 
water.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  cattle  are  so  excessively 
fond  of  this  water,  that  they  resort  to  it  from  ail  parts  of  the 
neighbouring  country. 

A  year  or  two  since,  a  Roman  coin,  of  a  very  rare  kind,  was 
found  on  the  banks  of  the  Riviere  ties  Peres  by  an  Indian,  and 
presented  to  Gov.  Clark.  Whether  this  circumstance  throws 
any  light  upon  the  ancient  history  of  this  country,  is  extremely 
doubtful.  It  is,  however,  in  itself  a  curiosity  worthy  of  a  de¬ 
tailed  description.  This  shall  be  given  at  some  future  time. 

This  river  affords  several  fine  mill-seats  :  its  banks  are  in 
general  thickly  settled.  In  many  places  they  are  low,  and  sub¬ 
ject  to  inundation.  The  alluvions,  however,  are  very  fertile, 
and  yield  abundant  crops  of  corn,  wheat,  &c. 

Roche  Percee  creek ,  a  considerable  stream  of  Boone  county, 
runs  a  southerly  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  in  town¬ 
ship  47  north,  in  range  13,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian, 
a  few  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Little  Bonne-Femme.  It  re¬ 
ceives  its  name  from  a  high  craggy  cliff  on  the  Missouri,  near 
its  mouth,  called  by  the  French,  Roche  Percee ;  perforated  or 
split  rock. 

Rock  creek ,  a  small  stream,  runs  an  easterly  course  through 
the  counties  of  Cooper  and  Cole,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri 
on  the  right  side,  in  township  46  north,  in  range  13,  west  of 
the  5th  principal  meridian,  a  short  distance  above  Howard’s 
bluff. 

Rogerstown,  an  Indian  settlement  in  Franklin  county,  lit 
township  42  north,  in  range  1,  east  of  the  5th  principal  meridi¬ 
an,  on  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Merrimack. 

Round  Bend  creeks.  Two  small  streams,  meandering  through 
the  southwestern  part  of  Chariton  county,  and  emptying  into 
the  Missouri  on  the  left  side,  near  each  other,  about  five  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  Grand  river.  “  Between  them  is  a  prairie, 
in  which  once  stood  the  ancient  village  of  the  Missouri’s.  Of 

40 


314 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


this  village  there  remains  no  vestige,  nor  is  there  any  thing  to' 
recal  this  great  and  numerous  nation,  except  a  feeble  remnant 
of  about  SO  families.  They  were  driven  from  their  original 
seats  by  the  invasion  of  the  Sauks  and  other  Indians  of  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  who  destroyed  at  this  village,  200  of  them,  and  sought 
refuge  near  the  little  Osage,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  The 
encroachment  of  the  same  enemies  forced,  about  SO  years  since, 
both  these  nations  from  the  banks  of  the  Missouri.  A  few  retir¬ 
ed  with  the  Osage,  and  the  remainder  found  an  asylum  on  the 
the  river  Platte,  among  the  Ottoes,  who  are  themselves  declin¬ 
ing.  Opposite  the  plain,  there  was  an  island  and  a  French  fort, 
but  there  is  now  no  appearance  of  either,  the  successive  inunda¬ 
tions  having  probably  washed  them  away  ;  as  the  Willow  Isl¬ 
and,  which  is  in  the  situation  described  by  Du  Pratz,  is  small,  ~ 
and  of  recent  formation.”  ( Lewis  and  Clark. ) 

Rush  creek ,  a  trifling  stream,  running  through  the  southeast¬ 
ern  part  of  Callaway  county,  and  emptying  into  the  Missouri  on 
the  left  side. 

Saline  creek9  a  small  stream  of  St.  Genevieve  and  Perry 
counties,  runs  a  northeast  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missis¬ 
sippi.  about  nine  miles  below  the  town  of  St.  Genevieve.  Salt 
springs  are  very  numerous  on  its  banks,  and  extensive  works 
have  already  been  established.  They  supply  the  surrounding 
country  with  salt,  and  afford  a  considerable  surplus  for  export. 
The  creek  has  one  or  two  tributaries,  which  meander  through 
some  fertile  tracts  of  land. 

Saline  creek ,  a  stream  of  Cooper  county,  runs  a  very  devious 
course,  forming  a  semicircle,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  riv¬ 
er,  near  the  southeast  corner  of  township  48,  in  range  14,  west 
of  the  5th  principal  meridian,  about  20  miles  below  Boonville* 
It  receives  its  name  from  the  number  of  salt  springs  and  licks, 
which  render  its  water  brackish.  The  current  of  this  stream 
is  quite  rapid,  and  its  banks  are  continually  falling  in. 

Salt  fork  of  La  Mine  river ,  see  Petite  saline. 

Salt  river ,  ( Riviere  an  Sel ,  Fr.  Oahahah ,  Ind.)  a  large  stream 
rises  in  the  highlands,  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  from 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS;  &C. 


315 


those  of  the  Mississippi,  and  running  a  devious  course  through  the 
counties  of  Ralls  and  Pike,  empties  into  the  Mississippi  in  the 
northern  part  of  township  54  north,  in  range  2,  west  of  the  5th 
principal  meridian.  It  receives  several  tributaries,  among 
which  are  Spencer’s,  Pcno,  Grassy,  and  Sugar  creeks.  The 
lands  on  its  borders  are  generally  fertile  ;  occasionally,  howev¬ 
er,  the  prairies  are  very  extensive,  particularly  near  its  head 
waters.  Salt  springs  are  very  abundant,  and  several  salt  works 
are  already  erected.  The  settlements  in  this  section  of  country 
increased  rapidly  for  several  years,  until  about  1821,  since  which 
time  the  emigration  has  not  been  so  great.  The  hanks  of  Salt 
river  have  always  been  considered  unhealthy. 

Sandy  creek ,  a  trifling  stream  of  Jefferson  county. 

Saverton ,  a  town  of  Ralls  county,  in  sections  17  and  18,  in 
township  56  north,  in  range  3,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridi¬ 
an,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi.  The  site  is  high  and 
healthy,  but  the  surrounding  country  is  not  yet  sufficiently  set¬ 
tled  to  support  a  large  town. 

Shawnee  village ,  is  situated  on  Apple  creek,  and  is  the  sum¬ 
mer  residence  of  a  considerable  number  of  Shawnee  Indians. 

Shepherd's  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Franklin  county,  running 
a  northerly  course,  and  emptyinginto  the  Missouri  on  the  right 
side,  83  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi,  and  a  short 
distance  above  Buffaloe  river. 

Smithton ,  a  small  town,  formerly  the  seat  of  justice  of  Boone 
county,  which,  during  the  last  session  of  the  legislature,  was  re¬ 
moved  to  Columbia. 

Snake  creek9  a  small  stream,  runs  a  southwest  course,  and 
empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the  left  side,  246  miles  above  its 
mouth.  Its  name  is  derived  from  the  snake  bluffs,  a  short  dis¬ 
tance  below. 

Snybar  creek9  (Chenel  Ebert)  a  small  stream,  runs  a  devious 
northerly  course,  through  Lilian!  county,  and  empties  into  the 
Missouri  on  the  right  side,  in  township  50  north,  in  range  28, 
west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian,  a  short  distance  above  Little 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


ai6 

ChencI  Ebert.  These  streams  arc  called  by  Lewis  and  Clark 
Eau  Beau ,  or  clear  water  creeks. 

South  river ,  a  small  stream  of  Ralls  county,  runs  a  northeast¬ 
erly  course,  and  falls  into  the  Mississippi,  in  the  southern  part 
of  township  58  north,  in  range  5,  west  of  the  5th  principal  me¬ 
ridian,  near  North  river.  From  this  circumstance,  these  two 
streams  are  generally  called  “  Two  Rivers.1 ”  South  River  is 
called  by  Pike,  Bar  River.*  It  is  about  20  yards  wide  at  its 
mouth,  and  has  on  its  borders  several  districts  of  good  farming 
land. 

Spencer's  creek ,  a  tributary  of  Salt  river,  empties  on  the  right 
side. 

Split  Rock  creek ,  see  Roche  Percee. 

Spring  river ,  rises  in  the  mountains  which  traverse  the  south¬ 
western  part  of  the  state,  runs  an  easterly  course,  and  falls  into 
Big  Black  river.  According  to  Schoolcraft,  large  quantities  of 
black  oxyd  of  manganese,  are  found  between  this  stream  and 
Eleven  Point,  another  branch  of  Black  river. 

St.  Andrew's  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  St.  Louis  county,  falls 
into  the  Missouri,  above  Bon  Homme  creek.  On  this  creek  is 
a  very  ancient  settlement  made  by  the  French.  In  1799,  it  con¬ 
tained  392  inhabitants,  since  which  time  it  has  been  greatly  in¬ 
creased  by  the  Americans. 

St.  Charles ,  a  flourishing  post  town,  the  seat  of  justice  of  St. 
Charles  county,  and  the  temporary  capital  of  the  state,  is  situa¬ 
ted  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Missouri,  about  20  miles  above  its 
confluence  with  the  Mississippi.  It  is  built  on  a  narrow  space 
between  the  river  and  a  considerable  bluff,  which  admits  of  but 
one  street.  The  site  is  elevated  beyond  the  inundations  of  the 
river,  but  the  bank  is  continually  wearing  away. 

The  town  of  St.  Charles  was  first  founded  by  the  French  in 
1780,  by  whom  it  was  also  called  Pette  Cote ,  and  they  contin- 


*  See  an  account  of  an  expedition  to  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  and  through  the  western  part 
of  Louisiana,  by  Major  Z.  M.  Tike.  Phi  lad.  1310. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OP  TOWNS,  kc. 


317 


wed  in  possession  of  it  for  a  long  time.  Its  advantageous  and 
healthy  situation,  however,  soon  attracted  the  attention  of 
the  Americans  ;  and  after  the  cession  of  Louisiana,  it  in¬ 
creased  rapidly.  Within  the  last  few  years  its  increase  has 
been  very  considerable.  The  houses  which  have  recently  been 
built,  are  of  brick,  and  generally  of  a  uniform  style.  At  pres¬ 
ent  it  contains  about  1200  inhabitants  ;  and  it  may  safely  be  af¬ 
firmed,  that  they  are  not  surpassed  in  industry  and  enterprise. 
Being  the  present  seat  of  government,  it  is  the  residence  of  the 
state  officers. 

St.  Charles,  like  the  other  French  villages,  had  originally  at¬ 
tached  to  it  extensive  common  fields.  As  this  system  of  owning 
property  in  common  did  not  accord  with  the  American  no¬ 
tions,  they  determined,  at  any  early  period,  to  endeavour  its  de¬ 
struction.  It  is  indeed  a  system  beautiful  in  theory,  and  speaks 
volumes  in  favor  of  the  original  settlers,  inasmuch  as  it  is  at 
once  a  proof  that  they  were  united  to  each  other  by  a  complete 
community  of  interest :  like  a  great  family,  in  which  there  was 
no  necessity  for  that  nice  division  and  distribution  of  proper¬ 
ty,  and  those  rigid  laws  for  its  protection.  But  it  is  evident 
that  this  system  is  a  complete  damper  to  industry,  and  renders 
the  situation  of  the  inhabitants  hut  little  preferable  to  that  of  the 
savages.  Each  member  of  the  community  cultivates  his  allot¬ 
ment,  which  affords  him  barely  a  sufficiency  for  his  subsistence 
— his  neighbour  docs  the  same  ;  and  consequently  that  stimulus 
to  exertion,  which  continually  exists  in  more  civilized  and  difie- 
rently  constituted  societies,  is  here  completely  lost.  But  when  a 
community  thus  constituted,  contented,  indolent,  and  happy, 
with  few  wants,  save  those  of  food  and  clothing,  is  broken  in 
upon  by  industry  and  enterprise,  and  the  desire  of  wealth  and 
power,  the  system  of  “  common  fields,”  common  stock,  and 
equal  distribution  of  property,  must  either  be  demolished,  or 
give  place  to  dishonesty  and  fraud. 

Such  was  the  situation  of  St.  Charles,  In  consequence  of  the 
rapid  increase  of  Americans,  their  number  was  soon  double  that 
of  the  French,  and  all  the  affairs  of  the  town  were  in  a  short  time 
regulated  by  the  former.  As  they  were  not  in  the  least  benefited 
by  the  common  fields,  which  were  rather  an  injury  to  the  town, 
the  trustees  determined  to  dispose  of  them,  to  the  end  that 


318 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


they  might  become  individual  property,  which  would  contribute 
greatly  to  its  prosperity  and  increase.  But  these  lands  were  gran¬ 
ted  to  the  town  or  village  for  the  use  of  the  inhabitants  for  ever, 
and  therefore  the  trustees  had  no  right  to  sell  them.  They  accord¬ 
ingly  passed  an  ordinance  in  1821,  the  provisions  of  which  were, 
that  they  should  cause  to  be  surveyed  into  streets,  avenues,  and 
town  lots,  conforming  as  near  as  possible  to  the  original  plan  of 
the  town,  so  much  of  the  commons  as  they  deemed  necessary, 
and  that  the  balance  be  surveyed  into  townships  and  sections, 
which  shall  he  marked  and  numbered  as  the  lands  of  the  United 
States,  and  conform  as  near  as  practicable  to  the  United  States’ 
surveys.  That  the  clerk  of  the  board  shall,  from  time  to  time, 
lease  for  10.000  years,  so  much  of  said  commons  at  public  ven¬ 
due  as  the  hoard  may  direct,  public  notice  having  been  previous¬ 
ly  given  :  Provided ,  the  town  lots  do  not  lease  for  less  than  fifty 
dollars  per  lot,  and  the  other  lands  for  less  than  two  dollars  per 
iicrc.  That  the  lessees  shall  pay  into  the  town  treasury  six  per 
cent  per  annum,  on  the  amounts  of  their  leases  Provision  is 
also  made  for  the  disposal  of  lots  at  private  sale,  subject  to  the 
above  regulations. 

Immense  advantages  must  accrue  to  St.  Charles  by  the  pas¬ 
sage  of  tiiis  act.  An  additional  number  of  lots  is  brought  into 
market  at  a  cheap  rate.  The  surrounding  country,  which  was 
formerly  a  waste,  will  soon  be  thickly  settled  and  highly  culti¬ 
vated,  and  in  addition  to  this,  a  very  considerable  revenue  is  se¬ 
cured  to  the  town. 

By  an  act  of  congress,  passed  in  1812,  it  was  made  the  duty  of 
the  principal  deputy  surveyor  to  survey  or  cause  to  be  survey¬ 
ed  and  marked  out,  the  boundary  lines  of  this  town,  so  as  to  in¬ 
clude  the  out-lots,  common  field  lots,  and  commons,  thereto  res¬ 
pectively  attached,  and  ail  the  town  lots,  out-lots,  or  common 
field  lots,  included  in  such  surveys,  which  are  not  rightfully 
owned  or  claimed  by  any  private  individuals,  or  held  as  com¬ 
mons  belonging  to  the  town,  are  reserved  for  the  support  of 
schools  in  said  town  :  Provided ,  that  the  whole  quantity  of  land 
contained  in  the  lots  reserved  for  the  support  of  schools,  shall 
not  exceed  one-twentieth  part  of  the  whole  lands  included  in  the 
general  survey  of  the  town.  This  act  also  applies  to  all  the 
towns  and  villages,  the  inhabitants  of  which  inhabited,  cultiva- 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  319 

ted,  or  possessed  common  fields,  previous  to  the  20th  of  Decem¬ 
ber,  1803. 

The  St.  Charles’  academy  was  established  and  incorporated 
by  the  legislature  in  1820.  under  the  direction  of  twelve  trustees. 
It  was  made  the  duty  of  the  trustees  to  examine  the  state  of  the 
grants  and  donations  which  had  been  made  by  the  act  of  con¬ 
gress  above  referred  to,  and  to  devise  means  for  securing  the 
said  town  lots,  out  lots,  and  such  other  lots  and  lands  as  were  by 
that  act  granted  to  the  inhabitants  of  St.  Charles,  for  the  use  of 
schools,  and  for  putting  them,  with  such  other  donations  as 
might  thereafter  be  made  for  that  purpose  in  a  state  of  profit  to 
the  institution. 

It  is  also  made  the  duty  of  the  trustees  to  cause  at  all  times 
the  English  and  French  languages  to  be  taught,  and  whenever 
the  funds  of  the  institution  w  ill  admit,  they  are  to  educate,  with¬ 
out  compensation,  orphans  and  children  of  such  parents  are  un¬ 
able  to  pay. 

The  appropriation  made  by  congress,  although  very  conside¬ 
rable  have  been  unproductive  and  almost  valueless.  But  on  ac¬ 
count  of  the  disposition  of  the  common  fields,  the  lands  will  soon 
increase  in  value,  and  will  ultimately  support  a  seminary  on  the 
most  extensive  scale. 

St.  Charles  is  a  place  of  considerable  business,  which  increas¬ 
es  in  proportion  to  the  increase  of  the  surrounding  country  ;  it 
will  probably  become  oae  of  the  largest  commercial  towns  north 
of  ihe  Missouri.  The  bluff  in  the  rear  of  the  town  affords  fine 
sites  for  dwelling  houses.  It  runs  in  a  northerly  direction  for 
two  or  three  miles,  and  then  unites  with  the  bluff  of  the  Missis* 
sippi,  and  forms  at  the  junction  the  mameltcs ,  or  breasts.  (See 
St.  Charles  county.)  Below  St.  Charles  is  a  bottom,  which  con¬ 
tinues  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  It  is  in  many  places  heav¬ 
ily  timbered,  and  generally  subject  to  overflow.  As  is  common¬ 
ly  the  case,  the  soil  is  very  fertile.  It  contains  several  small 
French  settlements,  such  as  the  Marais  Croche ,  Petite  Sac ,  &c. 

In  the  vicinity  of  St.  Charles,  there  are  said  to  exist  isolated 
sand  stone  rocks,  remarkable  for  their  purity,  being  so  white  as 
to  resemble  the  finest  lump  sugar.  These  would  furnish  an  ex¬ 
cellent  material  for  the  manufacture  of  glass.  Lead  has  been 
found  in  small  quantities.  Carbonized  wood  is  also  abundant 


320 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri  at  this  place,  as  also  pebbles  of 
cornelian,  agate,  &c.  Judge  Pettibonehas  also  recently  discov¬ 
ered  stone  coal  of  a  superior  quality  in  the  town,  and  judging 
from  the  thickness  of  the  stratum,  the  quantity  is  inexhaustible. 

St.  Charles  is  in  latitude  38°  42',  18  miles  northwest  ot  St. 
Louis.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  state  until  the  1st  of  Oct.  1826. 

St.  Ferdinand ,  (also  called  Florissante.J  a  French  village  in 
St.  Louis  county,  sixteen  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri, 
and  about  the  same  distance  nearly  north  of  the  town  of  St. 
Louis.  It  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  prairie,  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  the  finest  timber.  About  3000  arpents  of  land  were 
granted  to  it  by  the  Spanish  government,  as  a  common  field. 
This' tract  was  confirmed  to  the  inhabitants  by  the  act  of  con¬ 
gress  passed  in  1812,  subject  to  the  same  regulations  and  provi¬ 
sions  as  are  noticed  in  the  preceding  article.  (St.  Charles.)  The 
prairies  in  the  vicinity  are  large,  but  very  fertile,  and  contain  a 
considerable  population.  The  plantations,  as  is  generally  the 
case,  embrace  a  portion  of  prairie  and  wood  land. 

A  species  of  grape  (vitis  aestivalis)  grows  in  this  vicinity, 
from  which  the  inhabitants  make  very  good  wine.  In  summer 
it  answers  a  valuable  purpose,  being  a  pleasant  and  wholesome 
beverage,  without  the  ill  effects  of  spirituous  liquors.  The  in¬ 
habitants  of  this  place  are  principally  French,  of  the  Catholic 
religion.  The  Americans,  however,  are  settling  in  the  vicinity, 
and  many  have  extensive  plantations  under  cultivation. 

In  1799,  the  village  of  St.  Ferdinand  contained  about  300  in¬ 
habitants  ;  since  which  time  its  increase  has  been  very  incon¬ 
siderable. 

St.  Ferdinand  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  St.  Louis  county,  runs 
an  easterly  course  through  the  settlement  of  St.  Ferdinand, 
and  empties  into  the  Missouri  three  miles  above  its  confluence 
with  the  Mississippi. 

St.  Francis  river ,  rises  with  Big  river  and  Fourclie  a  Cour- 
tois,  in  the  broken  lands  in  the  south  part  of  Washington  and 
St.  Francois  counties,  and  joins  the  Mississippi  500  miles  be¬ 
low,  about  75  miles  above  the  mouth  of  White  river.  Its  navi¬ 
gation  is  much  obstructed  with  rafts.  The  banks  are  in  many 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


321 


places  subject  to  inundation.  At  the  head  of  this  river  is  the 
most  extensive  body  of  iron  ore  in  the  western  country.  The 
La  Motte  lead  mines  are  also  on  one  of  its  tributaries.  It  af¬ 
fords  in  its  course  a  proportion  of  excellent  land,  mixed  with 
some  that  is  rocky,  and  bordered  near  its  mouth  with  some 
swampy,  low,  and  overflown  ;  which,  however,  produces  an  im¬ 
mense  quantity  of  cane.  ( Schoolcraft. )  The  general  course  of 
the  stream  is  south.  It  is  swelled  by  Castor  creek,  and  several 
other  tributaries.  But  little,  however,  is  as  yet  known  in  re¬ 
gard  to  the  geography  of  this  stream,  or  the  country  through 
which  it  meanders.  It  forms  a  part  of  the  southwestern  bound¬ 
ary  of  the  state. 

The  following  is  added  from  Brackcnridge’s  Views  of  Louis¬ 
iana. 

“  The  St.  Francis  is  a  beautiful  and  limpid  stream,  passing 
through  a  charming  country  ;  but  afterwards,  though  increased 
in  size  by  its  junction  with  several  other  rivers,  it  flows  with  a 
slow'  and  lazy  current.  It  communicates  with  a  number  of  lakes 
which  lie  between  it  and  the  Mississippi,  formed  by  the  streams 
which  flow  from  the  upland  country,  and  lose  themselves  in  the 
low  grounds  commencing  at  Cape  Girardeau.  This  river  re¬ 
ceives  several  considerable  streams,  which  rise  between  it  and 
the  Mississippi.  The  Pemisco  has  its  source  near  the  Big  prairie, 
eight  or  ten  miles  northwest  of  Ncw-Madrid.  Generally,  the 
St.  Francis,  in  high  water,  overflows  its  banks  on  that  side  to  a 
great  distance.  A  person  at  such  times  may  easily  lose  the 
channel,  unless  well  acquainted  with  its  course.  The  western 
bank  is  generally  higher,  and  much  less  subject  to  inundation.” 

On  this  stream  is  a  very  considerable  settlement. 

++ 

St .  Genevieve ,  (called  by  the  French  of  St.  Louis,  Misere,J  a 
post  town,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of  St,  Genevieve  county,  is  si¬ 
tuated  on  Gabourie  creek,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  its  junc¬ 
tion  with  the  Mississippi,  and  is  one  of  the  principal  deposits  of 
lead  from  the  mine  country.  The  town  is  handsomely  elevated 
above  the  surrounding  bottom.  Immediately  below,  commences 
the  great  common  field  of  St.  Genevieve  and  New-Bourbon.  It 
lies  on  the  bottom,  and  contains  about  7000  acres  of  the  most 
fertile  land  in  the  state.,  The  bottom  is  about  three  miles  wide,, 

41 


322 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


and  extends  down  about  seven  or  eight  miles  on  the  margin  of 
the  river. 

The  town  was  originally  settled  by  the  French  of  Kaskaskia, 
about  the  year  1770.  It  was  then  built  immediately  on  the  bank 
of  the  Mississippi ;  but  the  washing  away  of  the  bank,  and  the 
great  flood  of  1780,  (Panne  de  grands  eaux,)  caused  the  inhabit¬ 
ants  to  choose  a  higher  situation.  The  ruins  of  the  old  town 
may  yet  be  seen,  and  there  are  several  orchards  of  fine  fruit 
still  remaining. 

Although  this  place  was  originally  settled  by  the  French,  it 
contains  a  number  of  American  inhabitants,  but  the  French 
character  and  manners  may  be  said  to  prevail.  The  emigration 
has  been  rather  slow,  and  the  Americans  have  rather  conformed 
to  the  customs  of  the  French,  than  established  new  ones. 

The  common  fields  attached  to  this  town,  are  laid  out  in  a 
regular  form,  and  are  under  cultivation.  The  arrangement  and 
the  allotments  are  similar  to  those  described  under  the  ar¬ 
ticle  Carondelet .  All  these  have  also  been  confirmed  to  the  in¬ 
habitants  by  an  act  of  congress,  subject  to  the  provisions  before 
mentioned.  The  same  provision  has  also  been  made  for  the 
support  of  schools.  As  early  as  1808,  an  academy  was  esta¬ 
blished  in  this  place,  and  incorporated  by  the  territorial  legisla¬ 
ture,  under  the  government  of  21  trustees.  It  was  made  their 
duty  to  cause  the  English  and  French  languages  to  be  constant¬ 
ly  taught.  A  very  handsome  edifice  was  erected  for  this  pur¬ 
pose  on  the  hill,  commanding  an  elegant  prospect  of  the  river, 
the  American  bottom,  and  of  the  hills  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Kaskaskia.  Unfortunately,  the  gentlemen  who  generously  un¬ 
dertook  the  work,  were  not  sufficiently  supported,  and  were 
obliged  to  abandon  it. 

St.  Genevieve  is  similar  in  its  appearance  to  the  other  French 
villages.  The  houses  are  generally  one  story  high  ;  sometimes 
frame,  and  sometimes  log,  but  all  white-washed,  which  gives  the 
town  a  very  lively  appearance.  Many  of  the  new  houses,  how¬ 
ever,  are  built  of  brick,  and  are  large  and  commodious.  The 
French  inhabitants  are  principally  Catholics,  who  have  erected 
a  chapel,  in  which  a  priest  regularly  officiates.  There  is  also 
a  court  house  and  jail. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  323 

In  the  vicinity  of  this  place  are  a  number  of  mounds,  and  other 
ancient  works.  They  arc  situated  on  the  bottom  below  the 
town. 

The  mouth  of  the  Gabourie,  situated  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
above  the  town,  always  affords  an  excellent  harbour  and  landing. 
In  times  of  high  water,  boats  of  any  size  can  ascend  this  creek 
to  the  town. 

The  country  in  the  vicinity  is  generally  fertile.  West  and 
north  of  the  town,  it  is  high  and  somewhat  broken.  The  soil  is 
clayey,  hut  produces  excellent  crops  of  wheat.  The  timber  has 
been  nearly  all  destroyed,  for  the  use  of  the  inhabitants. 

St.  Genevieve,  in  1799,  contained  about  950  inhabitants.  At 
present  it  contains  about  1400.  It  is  in  latitude  38°  north  ;  85 
miles  south-southeast  of  St.  Charles. 

St.  John’s  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Franklin  county,  runs  a 
northeast  course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  ten  miles  below 
Newport,  and  nearly  opposite  Marthasville. 

St.  Lora  river,  a  handsome  stream  of  Perry  county,  falls  into 
the  Mississippi  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Kaskaskia,  at 
the  head  of  Bois-brule  bottom. 

St.  Louis,  a  flourishing  post  town,  the  seat  of  justice  of  St. 
Louis  county,  and  formerly  the  capital  of  the  territory  and  state, 
is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  18  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  It  is  by  far  the  largest  tow  n  in  the 
state,  and  is  considered  its  commercial  metropolis.  The  site  is 
elevated  many  feet  above  the  inundations  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
is  protected  from  them  by  a  limestone  hank  which  extends  near¬ 
ly  two  miles.  Such  situations  are  extremely  rare,  as  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi  is  almost  universally  bounded  either  by  high  perpendi¬ 
cular  rocks,  or  loose  alluvial  soil,  the  latter  of  which  is  in  con¬ 
tinual  danger  of  being  washed  away  by  the  annual  floods. 

This  spot  has  an  abrupt  acclivity  from  the  river  to  the  first 
bottom,  and  a  gradual  one  from  it  to  the  second.  The  first 
bank  has  a  view  of  the  river,  being  elevated  about  20  feet  above 
the  highest  water ;  the  second  bank  is  40  feet  higher  than  the 
first,  and  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  tow  n,  river,  and  surrounding 


824 


GAZETTEER  OP  MISSOURI. 


country.  This  town  was  originally  laid  out  on  the  first  bank* 
and  consisted  of  three  narrow  streets,  running  parallel  with  the 
river.  Fortifications  were  erected  on  the  second  bank,  to  de¬ 
fend  the  inhabitants  against  the  attacks  of  the  savages.  Soon 
after  the  American  emigration  commenced,  four  additional 
streets  were  laid  out  on  the  second  bottom,  which  is  a  beautiful 
plain,  and  on  account  of  the  width  of  the  streets,  the  coolness 
and  airiness  of  the  situation,  is  preferred  for  places  of  residence. 

From  the  opposite  side  of  the  Mississippi,  the  appearance  of 
St.  Louis  is  very  imposing.  It  extends  along  the  river  for  near¬ 
ly  two  miles,  and  the  shore  is  every  where  lined  with  steam¬ 
boats,  keel-boats,  ferry  boats,  and  other  craft.  The  gradual 
ascent  of  the  first  bank,  and  the  elevation  of  the  second,  is  such 
that  it  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  whole  town. 

St.  Louis  was  first  settled  in  1664,  by  a  company  of  merchants, 
to  whom  M.  D’Abbadie,  the  director  general  of  Louisiana,  had 
given  an  exclusive  grant  for  the  commerce  with  the  Indian  na¬ 
tions  on  the  Missouri ;  and  for  the  security  and  encouragement 
of  this  settlement,  the  staff  of  the  French  officers  were  ordered 
to  remove  thither,  upon  rendering  Fort  Chartres  to  the  English. 
The  company  built  a  large  house  and  four  stores  here  ;  and  in 
the  year  1770,  there  were  about  40  private  houses,  and  as  many 
families.  The  French  garrison  then  consisted  of  a  captain  com¬ 
mandant,  two  lieutenants,  a  fort  major,  a  sergeant,  a  corporal, 
and  20  men.*  St.  Louis  now  flourished,  and  became  the  parent 
of  a  number  of  little  villages  on  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi, 
such  as  Carondelet,  St.  Charles,  Portage  des  Sioux,  Bon- 
Homme,  and  St.  Ferdinand.  It  carried  on  a  lucrative  trade 
with  the  Indians,  and  remained  in  peace  with  them  until  the 
year  1780,  when  the  outrageous  policy  which  is  pursued  even  to 
the  present  time,  was  the  means  of  producing  the  most  alarming 
effects.  An  expedition  was  fitted  out  by  the  British  at  Michil- 
limacinac,  in  order  to  conquer  the  towns  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Mississippi,  then  a  part  of  the  dominions  of  Spain,  whose 
king  had  taken  a  part  in  favour  of  the  independence  ofthe  United 
States  The  expedition  was  directed  against  St.  Louis,  then 
the  capital  of  Upper  Louisiana  ;  after  the  fall  of  which,  the  con- 


*■  fittman’s  history  of  the  British  settlements  on  the  Mississippi.  Lond.  1770. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


325 


quest  of  the  remaining  towns  and  villages  would  follow  as  a 
matter  of  course.  To  accomplish  this  object,  a  body  of  1500 
Indians  and  140  British  proceeded,  in  a  number  of  canoes  and 
light  boats,  through  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Illinois  river,  to 
St.  Louis.  “  On  the  approach  of  so  formidable  an  enemy,  the 
inhabitants,  despairing  of  successful  resistance,  deputed  one  of 
their  most  respectable  citizens,  the  late  Charles  Gratiot,  father 
of  Col.  Gratiot  of  the  U.  S.  corps  of  engineers,  to  solicit  the  aid 
of  Gen.  G.  R.  Clark,  then  encamped  with  his  men  on  the  Ame¬ 
rican  bottom. 

“  Although  the  general  was  well  acquainted  with  their  superior 
number,  he  having  but  400  men — although  he  well  knew  the 
hazard  of  attempting  the  passage  of  suclra  river  as  the  Missis¬ 
sippi  in  the  face  of  a  superior  force,  and  without  having  a  re¬ 
treat  in  case  of  a  defeat ;  and  although  St.  Louis  was  without 
the  limits  of  the  United  States,  and  he  had  no  authority  to  carry 
his  arms  so  far — besides  many  other  serious  objections,  he  wav¬ 
ed  them  all.  He  saw  in  the  inhabitants  of  St.  Louis  a  people 
devoted  to  destruction,  because  their  sovereign  was  an  ally  of 
his  country,  and  he  determined  at  once  to  carry  his  arms  to  their 
relief.  He  had  but  400  men,  but  they  were  the  riflemen  of  the 
west,  the  daring  sons  of  the  forest,  to  whom  danger  was  sport* 
hardship  was  pastime,  death  was  nothing,  and  glory  every 
thing.  He  led  200  of  his  gallant  band  to  the  ferry  opposite  the 
town,  and  made  a  demonstration  of  crossing,  while  200  more 
were  sent  down  to  cross  under  a  bend  of  the  l  iver,  about  3  miles 
below.  The  Indians  were  disconcerted  at  the  appearance  of  this 
unexpected  force,  and  retired,  killing  60  of  the  inhabitants,  and 
carrying  30  into  captivity.  This  terrible  year,  (1780)  is  well 
remembered  by  the  old  inhabitants,  who  refer  to  it  in  their  con¬ 
versations  as  a  date,  by  the  description  of  Uanne  dn  coup  ;  the 
year  of  the  attack.”* 

After  this  time,  the  inhabitants  suffered  but  little  from  the  in¬ 
cursions  of  the  Indians.  During  the  same  year,  the  town  was 
fortified  by  M.  Dorn.  Francois  dc  Crusat,  lieutenant  colonel 
and  lieutenant  governor  of  the  western  section  of  the  country  of 


*  For  the  particulars  of  this  uttack,Iam  indebted  to  Col.  Benton,  U.  States  senator  from  the  state 
^Missouri.  See  St.  Louis  Enquirer,  Aug.  5, 1820.  Also  hi*  speech  in  the  senate  of  the  U.  States, 
on  the  bill  to  perfect  French  and  Spanish  laud  titles  in  Missouri. 


326 


GAZETTEER  OR  MISSOURI. 


the  Illinois.  (See  Flan  of  St.  Louis. )  It  was  entirely  enclosed  with 
pickets.  On  the  river,  at  each  extremity  of  the  town,  were  half 
moons  mounted  with  artillery.  After  the  peace  of  1783,  these 
works  were  suspended.  Some  years  after,  the  garrison  on  the 
hill  was  completed,  and  about  1797,  when  an  invasion  was  again 
expected  from  Canada,  four  stone  towers  were  erected,  and  also 
a  block  house  at  the  lower  part  of  the  town.  The  spaces  between 
these  were  well  picketted,  and  a  ditch  surrounded  the  whole. — 
Fortunately,  however,  these  works  were  never  needed.  Many 
of  them  are  still  standing. 

The  population  of  St  Louis  increased  but  little  until  after  the 
cession  of  Louisiana  to  the  United  States,  when  its  advanta¬ 
geous  situation,  and  the  alluring  prospects  of  gain  which  it  pre¬ 
sented,  made  it  at  once  the  centre  of  a  vast  emigration.  The  em¬ 
igrants  were  principally  men  of  business  and  adventurers,  who 
considered  it  only  as  a  temporary  residence.  On  this  account, 
very  little  improvement  was  made  in  the  town  until  about  1812, 
when  several  new  houses  were  erected  in  the  American  style — 
After  this,  the  number  of  houses  increased  rapidly.  Mechanics 
of  all  descriptions  received  high  wages — trade  was  brisk,  and 
money  plenty,  and  St.  Louis  had  all  the  appearance  of  a  great 
commercial  tow  n.  But,  as  could  have  been  easily  foreseen,  this 
state  of  things  did  not  continue  long,  for  it  was  forced  and  unna¬ 
tural.  Speculators  had  purchased  large  quantities  of  land  on  a 
credit  at  very  high  prices — merchants  had  purchased  in  the  same 
way  immense  stocks  of  goods  in  the  eastern  cities  ;  and  almost  the 
whole  business  was  transacted  upon  a  fictitious  capital,  which  was 
frequently  transferred  from  one  to  another.  Consequently,  when 
the  credits  for  lands  and  goods  had  expired,  when  it  was  neces¬ 
sary  for  each  man  to  depend  upon  his  own  capital,  a  sad  reverse 
was  experienced.  Not  having  any  considerable  articles  of  ex¬ 
port,  every  dollar  of  specie  was  remitted  to  the  east.  In  the 
midst  of  this,  the  banks  failed,  creditors  suffered,  confidence 
was  destroyed,  and  for  a  time,  business  was  almost  completely 
stopped.  This  state  of  things,  however,  was  not  peculiar  to  this 
place,  for  at  the  same  time  a  similar  depression  existed  in  every 
part  of  the  country.  This,  without  any  of  the  local  causes  above 
mentioned,  would  have  perhaps  produced  serious  effects,  for  it 
could  not  be  supposed,  that  situated  as  Missouri  was,  the  pres- 


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TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C.  327 

sure  which  commenced  on  the  Atlantic,  and  which  had  spread 
rapidly  over  the  middle  states,  would  bear  lightly  upon  her. 

Although  the  assertion  may  be  considered  paradoxical,  the  si¬ 
tuation  ot‘  St.  Louis  and  of  Missouri,  is  at  present  more  prosper¬ 
ous  than  ever.  The  citizens  have,  in  a  great  measure,  aban¬ 
doned  their  wild  and  visionary  schemes  of  money-making. — 
They  arc  now  directing  their  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  the 
soil,  and  their  inexhaustible  mines  of  lead  and  iron.  Domestic 
manufactures  are  substituted  for  foreign  fineries,  and  industry 
and  frugality  have  taken  the  place  of  idleness  and  dissipation. 

According  to  an  enumeration  taken  by  the  editor  of  the  4  St. 
Louis  Directory,’  this  town  contained  in  May,  1821,  65  3  dwel¬ 
ling  houses,  232  of  which  are  built  of  brick  and  stone,  and  419 
of  wood.  The  majority  of  the  dwellings  erected  by  the  French, 
are  one  story  high,  and  surrounded  with  a  piazza.  Those  which 
have  recently  been  built  by  the  Americans,  are  principally  of 
brick.  There  are  frequently  attached  to  these  dwellings  large 
gardens,  which  arc  under  good  cultivation. 

By  the  same  enumeration,  it  appears  that  the  population  of 
this  place  is  5600.  Its  astonishing  increase  in  tins  respect, 
within  the  last  few  years,  is  worthy  of  notice.  In  1799,  it  con¬ 
tained  925  inhabitants;  in  1810,  1000  ;  and  in  1818,  3500.— 
From  which  it  appears,  that  from  the  year  1799  to  1810,  this 
place  remained  nearly  stationary  ;  and  that  since  the  latter,  its 
population  has  increased  in  nearly  a  six-fold  ratio. 

St.  Louis  as  yet  contains  few  public  buildings.  Among  these, 
the  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  college,  and  Baptist  church  are  the 
most  conspicuous.  The  Catholic  chapel  is  a  very  spacious  edi¬ 
fice,  and  is  handsomely  furnished  with  paintings,  vases,  and 
other  ornaments.  Among  the  former  is  a  splendid  one,  present¬ 
ed  to  Bishop  Du  Bourg  by  the  present  king  of  France.  Other 
distinguished  Catholics  ofEurope  have  been  very  liberal  in  their 
donations  to  this  church.  In  the  academy  or  college  which  is 
attached  to  this  establishment,  a  complete  and  extensive  system 
of  education  is  adopted.  Among  the  other  advantages  is  that  of 
a  library,  containing  about  8000  volumes,  the  property  of  the 
bishop,  but  which,  through  his  generosity,  is  open  to  those  who 
wish  to  examine  its  valuable  contents. 


328 


GAZETTEER  OP  MISSOURI. 


The  Baptist  church  is  situated  on  Third-street,  and  is  a  fine 
spacious  brick  building.  Arrangements  are  also  making  for 
the  erection  of  a  Presbyterian  church,  on  one  of  the  lots  facing 
the  public  square.* 

The  Museum  in  St.  Louis  is  well  worthy  the  attention  of  the 
curious  and  scientific.  It  is  the  private  property  of  Gov.  Clark, 
through  whose  liberality  it  is  continually  open  for  the  admission 
of  visiters.  It  is  handsomely  arranged,  and  consists  of  rich 
Indian  dresses,  ornaments,  instruments  of  war,  skins  of  different 
animals,  minerals,  fossils,  and  other  interesting  and  curious  ar¬ 
ticles  and  specimens,  collected  by  himself  in  his  travels,  and 
presented  to  him  at  different  times  by  Indian  chiefs  and  traders. 
It  is  probably  the  best  collection  of  Indian  curiosities  in  this 
country, 

In  addition  to  the  school  above  mentioned,  there  are  several 
others,  in  some  of  which  the  classics  and  higher  branches  of 
English  education  are  taught.  By  an  act  passed  in  1817,  these 
were  placed  under  the  government  of  seven  trustees.  They  in¬ 
structed  Mr.  Benton  to  petition  congress  to  permit  them  to  sell 
a  portion  of  the  school  lands,  for  the  purpose  of  raising  funds  for 
their  support.  Whether  this  has  been  effected,  I  have  not  as 
yet  learnt. 

*  » 

St.  Louis  was  incorporated  in  1809,  and  placed  under  the 

government  of  live  trustees,  who  are  elected  annually.  The 
limits  of  the  incorporation  are  as  follows  :  “  Beginning  at  Boyfs 
mills,  on  the  hank  of  the  Mississippi  river  ;  thence  running  sixty 
arpentsf  west ;  thence  south  on  said  line  of  sixty  arpents  in  the 
rear,  until  the  same  comes  to  the  Barriere  denoyer  ;  thence  due 
south,  uutil  it  comes  to  the  Sugar  loaf;  thence  due  east  to  the 
Mississippi;  from  thence  by  the  Mississippi,  along  low  water 
mark,  to  the  place  first  mentioned.” 

*  It  is  honourable  to  the  citizens  of  St.  Louis,  that  during  the  years  1819  and  20,  upwards  of  eigh¬ 
teen  thousand  dollars  were  subscribed  for  the  erection  of  places  of  public  worship.  Considering 
that  the  whole  number  of  inhabitants  at  that  time  did  not  much  exceed  4000,  and  that  of  these 
more  than  one  third  were  unable  to  contribute,  their  liberality  will  not  sutler  in  a  comparison  with 
that  of  the  eastern  cities. 

t  Surveys  were  made,  under  the  Frenchand  Spanish  governments,  by  the  arpent,  not  the  acre. 

“The  following  formula  contains  the  elements  to  reduce  the  one  into  the  other,  viz. 605 arpents 
make  51 2 acres,  stated  thus : — If  605 ar.  :  512ac.  ::  lOOar.  : 

“The  arpent  is  used  also  as  a  measure  of  length,  being  180  feet  or  SO  toises  French,  equal  to  392 
feet  English  or  American,  nearly.”  Darby's  Emigrant's  Guide, 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


329 


When  this  place  was  first  laid  out,  lots  were  very  cheap. 
Owing  to  the  desire  of  the  French  and  Spaniards  to  encourage 
emigration,  large  grants  were  made  to  different  individuals,  and 
these  were  sold  at  a  very  low  rate.  But  during  and  since  the 
late  war,  the  value  of  the  lots,  particularly  those  on  the  principal 
streets,  has  increased  astonishingly.  A  circumstance  which 
operates  against  the  improvement  of  the  town,  is,  that  many  of 
the  old  inhabitants  own  very  large  lots,  which  they  are  unwil¬ 
ling  to  build  on  themselves,  or  dispose  of  to  others. 

in  regard  to  building  materials,  St.  Louis  is  very  advantage¬ 
ously  situated.  The  whole  bank  of  the  river  here  consists  of 
limestone,  which  can  be  quarried  with  the  greatest  ease.  This 
also  furnishes  lime  of  a  good  quality.  There  are  immense  beds 
of  clay  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  from  which  large  quan¬ 
tities  of  brick  are  annually  made.  Lumber  is  brought  down  the 
Gasconade  and  Missouri  rivers,  and  sold  here  at  a  very  cheap 
rate. 

There  are  numerous  fine  springs  of  water  in  the  vicinity  of 
this  place,  but  the  digging  of  wells  is  attended  with  uncommon 
difficulty.  About  15  or  20  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground* 
is  a  stratum  of  limestone  of  more  than  six  feet  in  thickness* 
through  which  it  is  often  necessary  to  blast.  The  expense  of 
these  wells  frequently  exceeds  1000  dollars.  It  is  worthy  of  re¬ 
mark,  that  on  the  “  Hill,”  the  water  is  much  better,  and  more 
easily  obtained  than  in  the  lower  parts  of  the  town.  In  digging 
these  wells,  it  is  necessary  to  use  every  precaution,  as  large 
quantities  of  carbonic  acid  gas  are  frequently  generated  in  the 
course  of  a  few  hours.  During  the  year  1820,  lour  persons  pe¬ 
rished  from  the  effects  of  this  substance,  in  this  vicinity.  The 
existence  of  this  deleterious  gas  can  always  be  detected  by  let¬ 
ting  down  a  lighted  candle  ;  and  no  person  should  descend,  un¬ 
less  he  has  previously  tried  this  experiment. 

The  commerce  of  this  place  is  very  considerable.  This  is  car- 
ried  on  by  steam-boats,  barges,  and  keel-boats.  The  annual  im 
ports  of  this  town,  are  computed  at  upwards  of  §2,000,000 — > 
Furs,  peltries,  and  lead  ore,  are  as  yet  the  principal  articles  of 
export,  but  to  these  will  soon  be  added  many  others  no  less  valu¬ 
able.  In  1 819,  an  association  was  formed  here,  called  the  *  .Mis¬ 
souri  Fur  Company for  the  purpose  of  trading  on  the  Missouri 

and  its  tributaries.  Their  capital  amounts  to  upwards  of 

42 


330 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


870.000,  and  they  have  already  extended  their  establishments  to 
the  Mandan  villages. 

Wood  is  at  present  the  principal  article  of  fuel  used  in  St. 
Louis,  and  with  this,  it  is  principally  supplied  from  the  Ameri¬ 
can  bottom,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  A  large  quantity > 
however,  is  brought  from  the  *fc  commons,”  seven  or  eight  miles 
below  the  town.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  supply  themselves 
with  the  drift  woody  an  immense  quantity  of  whit  li  is  annually 
brought  down  the  Missouri,  and  deposited  on  the  sand  bar  in 
front  of  the  town.  But  as  coal  is  veiy  abundant  within  a  short 
distance  of  this  place,  it  is  probable  that  in  a  few  years  it  will 
completely  supercede  the  use  of  wood. 

It  has  been  frequently  observed  throughout  this  work,  that  in 
consequence  of  the  large  quantities  of  sand  which  are  brought 
down  by  the  Missouri,  whenever  there  is  an  accidental  obstruc¬ 
tion  to  the  current,  a  portion  of  it  is  deposited,  and  this,  adding 
to  the  obstruction,  increases  every  subsequent  deposit.  By 
this  means,  a  bar  of  two  miles  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
in  width,  has  been  for  med  in  front  of  the  town  of  St.  Louis.  I 
have  been  informed  by  old  inhabitants,  that  many  years  ago,  it 
was  much  larger  than  it  is  at  present,  and  that  it  w  as  under  cul¬ 
tivation.  After  this  time,  it  was  entirely  carried  away,  and  the 
river  continued  in  its  natural  course  for  a  number  of  years. — 
About  10  or  12  years  ago,  this  bar  again  commented  forming, 
and  has  ever  since  continued  to  increase.  The  manner  in  w  hich 
it  was  formed,  will  be  explained  by  a  reference  to  the  plan 
which  is  annexed.  Opposite  to  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  is  a 
small  island.  The  greatest  volume  of  water  descends  on  the  Il¬ 
linois,  or  east  side,  and  wears  away  the  newly  formed  alluvion. 
The  current  of  the  water  which  descends  on  the  west,  or  Missou¬ 
ri  side,  continues  close  to  the  island  ;  and  when  it  reaches  its 
southern  extremity,  shoots  across  in  a  southwesterly  direction, 
and  strikes  the  rocky  shore  at  a.  From  this  point,  the  current 
is  again  turned  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  and  shoots  across 
to  the  east  side  of  the  river,  where,  uniting  with  the  main  cur- 
current,  it  continues  along  the  east  shore  for  nearly  three  miles. 
It  then  again  crosses  the  river,  and  strikes  the  rm  ky  bluff  at  b . 
From  this  sketch  it  appears,  that  the  volume  of  water,  t  e  t  c,  is, 
as  it  were,  pent  up,  and  must  necessarily  deposit  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  sand  which  it  contains. 


331 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 

If  this  bar  continues  to  increase  as  it  has  done  for  several 
years  past,  it  will  he  gr  eatly  injurious  to  the  town.  It  will  pro¬ 
bably  extend  north,  and  unite  with  the  island  c,  by  which  means 
boats  will  be  completely  prevented  from  landing  here. — 
It  therefore  becomes  an  interesting  question,  whether  this  bar 
can  be  removed  by  artificial  means.  The  cause  of  its  forma¬ 
tion,  will  at  once  point  out  the  most  feasible  plan  for  accomplish¬ 
ing  this  object.  If  any  obstruction  could  be  created  on  the  east 
side  of  the  river,  by  which  means  the  current  directly  below  the 
island,  could  be  thrown  over  to  the  bar,  it  is  probable  that  in 
a  short  time  it  would  be  swept  away.  A  stone  pier  constructed 
as  dd,  if  it  could  be  made  sufficiently  strong  to  resist  the  current 
of  the  river,  (which  is  indeed  extremely  doubtful)  would  have 
this  effect.  The  removal  might  be  further  assisted  by  digging 
a  small  canal  along  the  bank,  at  Jfj\  which  could  give  the  cur¬ 
rent  an  opportunity  to  act  upon  both  sides  of  the  bar. 

In  suggesting  this  plan,  i  am  well  aw  are  of  the  difficulty  and 
expense  which  would  attend  its  accomplishment.  But  when  we 
..  consider  the  importance  of  this  emporium  of  two  states,  which 
are  destined  to  become  populous  and  wealthy — when  we  look  at 
the  vast  works  of  ai  t  which  have  already  been  constructed  in 
other  states  ;  and  w  hen  we  reflect  that  their  inhabitants  are 
gradually  emigrating  to  the  west,  and  will  soon  crowd  the  banks 
of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  we  arc  irresistibly  led  to  the 
conclusion,  that  all  these  difficulties  will  be  surmounted  by  their 
industry,  ingenuity  and  enterprise. 

In  the  vicinity  of  St  Louis,  are  a  number  of  mounds,  the  rel¬ 
ative  position  of  which  are  shown  upon  the  map.  They  are  sim¬ 
ilar  to  those  which  are  every  where  found  in  the  valley  of  the 
Mississippi. 

St.  Louis  is  in  latitude  38°  35'  north. 

St.  Michaels ,  a  post  village  of  Madison  county,  situated  on  a 
plain  on  Village  creek,  which  falls  into  the  St.  Francis  river, 
a  mile  below.  It  contains  about  50  houses,  including  a  few 
stores,  and  lies  in  the  centre  of  the  richest  farming  district  in 
Madison  county.  Fredericktown,  the  seat  of  justice  of  the  coun¬ 
ty,  is  situated  on  a  rising  ground,  a  short  distance  from  the  vil¬ 
lage.  Mine  la  Mottc  is  two  miles  north. 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI# 


Strawberry  river,  a  branch  of  Black  river,  running  through 
Wayne  county.  As  so  little  is  as  yet  known  concerning  the 
southwestern  part  of  Missouri,  I  cannot  omit  the  following  ob¬ 
servations  of  an  author  already  referred  to  :# 

“  Between  White  river  and  Strawberry  river,  are  three  par¬ 
allel  porphyry  ranges,  running  circularly  from  the  west  to  the 
northeast ;  the  three  mountains  are  twenty-eight  miles  across, 
and  seem  to  have  been  above  water,  when  the  whole  country 
around  was  covered  by  the  ocean.  The  southwest  side  presents 
a  large  undulating  valley  of  basalts,  among  which  are  some  cal¬ 
careous  stones,  that  may  be  denominated  marbles. 

“  At  the  foot  of  the  before  mentioned  mountain,  was  an  ele¬ 
phant  or  mammoth’s  tooth,  (or  grinder)  of  an  enormous  size  y 
it  was  fully  twice  as  large  as  the  largest  1  had  seen  before  at 
Big-bonelick.  A  large  quantity  of  these  fossils  are  there  gath¬ 
ered  in  a  small  compass,  and  this  collection  was  doubtless  occa¬ 
sioned  by  the  appetite  which  these  animals  had  for  salt.  Attrac¬ 
ted  by  the  water  that  oozes  in  these  marshy  places,  they  were 
evidently  mired  when  they  ventured  too  far  in,  and  of  course  the 
struggles  of  the  last  one  would  sink  the  bones  of  his  predecessor 
still  deeper.  Thus  these  collections  are  easily  accounted  for, 
although  at  first,  it  seems  very  strange  to  see  these  bones  accu¬ 
mulated,  like  those  of  some  of  the  extinct  Indian  tribes  in  the 
west.  The  grinder  which  I  discovered,  was  perfectly  preserv¬ 
ed  in  its  shape,  and  converted  into  a  silecious  petrifaction,  rep¬ 
resenting  milk-white  jasper,  variegated  with  beautiful  colours. 
It  was  incrusted  by  a  solid  block  of  porphyry,  which  the  des¬ 
tructive  hand  of  time  had  worn  away  to  such  a  degree,  that  it 
projected  like  a  tooth  in  its  own  alveolage.  By  breaking  a  piece 
from  one  corner,  the  enamel  and  the  layers  of  the  tooth  soon  be¬ 
came  visible,  so  that  there  could  be  no  doubt  as  to  what  it  was. 

“  l  examined  the  block  of  porphyry  attentively,  and  think  I 
could  discern  some  osseous  forms  ;  the  bones  appeared  to  be  in 
their  full  size,  and,  like  the  grinder,  converted  into  jasper  ;  hut 
it  was  of  a  more  dull  colour  and  not  so  hard,  and  resembled  in¬ 
durated  clay.  The  other  component  parts  were  clay,  feld-spar, 
and  quartz,  and  some  other  things* not  ascertained.” 

Upon  the  marbles  above  mentioned,  the  author  makes  the  fol¬ 
lowing  remarks  : 


"  Bringier  on  the  region  of  the  Mississippi,  in  Silliman’s  Journal,  vol.  3. 


topographical  view  of  towns,  &c. 


333 


u  The  kind  that  is  most  abundant,  is  a  brirk  coloured  marble, 
With  brown  stripes,  (resembling  the  Italian  Roso  di  Monte  Cati- 
ni  j  The  next  is  a  plain  flesh-coloured  marble,  ( Rosso  di  Cul - 
dona.J  A  white  and  black  marble  is  the  first  that  occurs  at 
the  foot  of  the  ridges  ,•  it  is  a  most  beautiful  variety.  ( Nero,  y 
Bianco  Jlntico  )  I  have  found  many  other  varieties  in  the  branch¬ 
es  of  the  creeks,  but  have  not  discovered  the  quarries.  The 
kind  first,  mentioned,  are  found  in  great  plenty.  The  first  cov¬ 
ers  more  than  40  miles  of  surface.  The  land  is  extremely  fer¬ 
tile  in  the  places  where  the  marble  lies,  buried  in  two  or  three 
feet  of  loam.  This  is  particularly  true  on  the  bottoms  of  a  great 
number  of  streams  which  abound  in  this  country,  and  are  pro¬ 
duced  by  large  springs  flowing  every  where.  The  growth  is 
black  walnut,  hickory,  cherry,  &c.  When  the  rocks  are  above 
the  vegetable  earth,  nothing  is  seen  for  miles,  except  now  and 
then  a  few  wild  gooseberry  bushes.  These  quarries  generally 
exhibit  level  surfaces  of  a  tolerable  height.” 

Talbot  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Lillard  county,  runs  a  north¬ 
easterly  course,  and  falls  into  the  Missouri,  half  a  mile  above 
Mount  Vernon.  It  is  fifteen  or  twenty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth. 

Tavern  creek9  a  small  stream  of  St.  Charles  county,  falls  into 
the  Missouri  on  the  right  side,  three  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
Femme  Osage.  A  mile  below  this  is  a  large  cave,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Missouri,  at  the  foot  of  cliffs  about  three  hundred  feet 
high,  overhanging  the  water.  The  cave  is  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  wide,  forty  deep,  and  twenty  high.  It  received  the 
name  of  the  Tavern9  from  the  circumstance  of  its  affording  a  con¬ 
venient  stopping  place  to  the  traders  and  voyageurs.  Besides  the 
names  of  visitors  with  which  the  walls  are  every  where  covered, 
there  are  several  rude  representations  of  birds  and  beasts,  pro¬ 
bably  the  work  of  Indian  artists.  The  reverence  which  they 
have  for  the  Great  Spirit,  induces  them,  when  visiting  these 
displays  of  his  power,  to  leave  some  memorial  of  their  homage. 

Thomas  fork  of  Black  river ,  see  Four che  a  Thomas . 

Tiger  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Ray  county,  runs  a  southwest 
course,  and  empties  into  tiie  Missouri  276  miles  above  its  mouth. 

Town  of  Missouri ,  an  imaginary  town  plot  on  the  north  bank 


•334 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


of  the  Missouri,  25  miles  above  St.  Charles.  It  is  in  the  centre 
of  the  Femme  Osage  settlement,  and  is  said  to  be  a  convenient 
point  on  the  river  tor  the  inhabitants  of  St  Charles  county  to 
export  their  produce. 

Troy ,  (formerly  Wood's  forty )  a  flourishing  post  town,  situated 
near  the  centre  of  Lincoln  county,  in  the  southeast  corner  of 
township  49  north,  in  range  1,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meri¬ 
dian.  It  is  aboil  two  miles  north  of  Cuivre  river,  fourteen  wrest 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  ten  northwest  of  Munroe.  The  lands  in 
the  vicinity  are  fertile,  and  thickly  settled.  The  Cuivre  affords 
several  valuable  mill-seats.  Troy,  although  as  yet  small,  is  in 
a  state  of  improvement. 

Two  Rivers ,  two  small  streams  of  Ralls  county,  fall  into  the 
M  ississippi  near  each  other,  between  Salt  river  and  the  Wa- 
conda  They  are  distinguished  hy  the  names  of  North  and 
South  rivers,  which  see. 

Vermilion  river ,  a  considerable  branch  of  the  Osage,  emptying 
in  on  the  left  side,  about  seven  miles  south  of  St.  Charles. 

Videpoche,  see  Carondclct. 

Village  a  Robert ,  or  Village  du  Marais  des  Liards ,  is  situated 
three  or  four  miles  west  of  St.  Ferdinand,  and  contains  a  few 
French  families.  It  was  formerly  the  residence  of  a  part  of  the 
Delaware  and  Shawnee  tribes  of  Indians.  The  name  is  due  to 
an  old  settler,  Robert  Owens.  In  1799,  it  contained  379  inha¬ 
bitants  ;  since  which  time  the  number  has  diminished. 

Village  creek,  a  small  stream  of  Madison  county.  On  its  . 
banks  is  a  district  of  good  farming  land. 

Waconda ,  a  tow  n  recently  laid  out  at  the  confluence  of  Wa- 
conda  creek  w  ith  the  Missouri.  The  site  is  a  regular  unbroken 
eminence,  with  a  substratum  of  limestone,  forming,  on  the  mar¬ 
gin  of  the  river,  natural  piers  or  wharves  for  the  accommodation 
of  river  craft.  It  possesses  many  local  advantages,  and  is  pro¬ 
bably  destined  to  become  a  considerable  commercial  town.  The 
Mississippi  is  navigable  more  than  half  the  year  to  the  Falls  of 
St.  Anthony,  1000  miles  above  $  and  the  water  communicatioB 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  VIEW  OF  TOWNS,  &C. 


335 


with  the  lakes  is  always  open  in  the  spring,  through  the  Green 
Bay,  Fox  and  Ouisconsiu  rivers.  The  surrounding  country  is 
fertile,  and  is  handsomely  interspersed  with  prairie  and  wood¬ 
land.  A  saw  and  grist-mill  are  already  in  operation  here,  and 
other  improvements  are  progressive. 

Waconda  is  120  miles  in  a  right  line  north  of  St.  Louis,  and 
190  by  the  meanders  of  the  river;  and  about  100  from  Franklin 
on  the  Missouri. 

Waconda  creek ,  a  considerable  stream  of  Ralls  county,  runs  a 
southeast  course,  and  fails  into  the  Mississippi  in  the  southern 
part  of  township  61  north,  in  range  5,  west  of  the  5th  principal 
meridian.  It  is  about  100  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  According 
to  a  tradition  which  exists  among  the  Indians,  two  of  the  Sioux 
died  on  the  banks  of  this  stream  in  the  night.  As  they  had  no 
marks  of  violence  upon  them,  their  death  was  at  once  ascribed 
to  a  supernatural  agency.  It  was  hence  t  ailed  by  this  tribe 
Waconda ,  from  their  supposing  it  to  be  the  residence  of  the 
Master  of  Life,  or  Great  Spirit. 

A  short  distance  below  the  mouth  of  this  stream,  arc  the  re¬ 
mains  of  an  ancient  village.  Several  walls  are  still  to  be  seen. 

White  river ,  a  large  navigable  stream,  rises  in  the  Black 
mountains,  which  separate  the  waters  of  the  Arkansas  from 
those  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  and  running  a  southeast 
course,  empties  into  the  Mississippi  eighty  miles  below  the  St. 
Francis.  Very  little  is  as  yet  known  of  this  stream,  and  it  is 
very  doubtful  whether  any  part  of  it  is  within  the  limits  of  this 
state.  But  as  the  boundary  line  between  Missouri  and  the  ter¬ 
ritory  of  Arkansas  is  still  undefined,  i  have,  upon  the  authority 
of  several  authors,  laid  down  White  river  on  the  map  as  run¬ 
ning  through  the  south-western  part  of  this  state. 

White  river.  North  fork  of,  a  large  stream,  running  through 
the  south-western  part  of  the  state. 

White-water  creek ,  runs  through  the  counties  of  Cape  Girar¬ 
deau  and  Scott. 

Wier’s  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Cole  county,  runs  a  devious 
course,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri  on  the  right  side,  in  town¬ 
ship  44  north,  in  range  11,  west  of  the  5th  principal  meridian. 


336 


GAZETTEER  OF  MISSOURI. 


The  permanent  capital  of  the  state  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
this  creek. 

Wild-Horse  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  St.  Louis  county. 

Winchester ,  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  of  New-Madrid, 
22  miles  north  of  the  town  of  New-Madrid. 

Wolf  creek ,  a  tributary  of  the  St.  Francis  river,  running 
through  the  counties  of  St.  Francois  and  Madison. 

Yungar  river,  heads  between  White  river  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  the  grand  fork  of  the  Osage,  and  pursuing  a  course  north¬ 
east,  empties  into  the  Osage,  about  25  miles  above  Great  Gravel 
river.  The  Indians  call  it  Ne-hun-gar;  from  the  vast  number 
of  springs  at  its  source-  It  is  supposed  to  be  nearly  as  exten¬ 
sive  as  the  Osage  ;  navigable  for  100  miles,  and  is  celebrated 
for  the  abundance  of  bear,  found  on  its  branches.  On  its 
banks  are  the  hunting  grounds  of  the  Chassieurs  du  Bois,  of 
Louisiana,  the  Usages  and  Greeks,  (or  Musk  ogees)  a  wandering 
party  of  which  have  established  themselves  here  ;  between 
whom  and  the  French  traders,  frequent  skirmishes  take  place. 
About  20  miles  above  the  mouth  of  this  stream,  is  said  to  be  a 
curious  cascade,  of  more  than  a  hundred  feet  fall  in  the  distance 
of  four  hundred  yards  ;  the  water  issues  from  a  large  spring, 
and  is  precipitated  over  three  different  ledges  of  rocks,  and  fall¬ 
ing  to  the  bottom,  is  collected  into  a  beautiful  basin,  from  whence 
it  flows  into  this  river,  a  navigable  stream*.  This  is  perhaps  a 
situation  for  machinery,  equal  to  any  ever  discovered,  and  is  the 
more  desirable,  as  the  neighbourhood  has  a  considerable  body  of 
good  land.  The  hills  are  covered  with  timber,  and  are  filled 
with  abundance  of  lead  and  iron  ore. 

Zenon  creek ,  a  small  stream  of  Cape  Girardeau  county.  The 
town  of  Jackson  is  situated  between  two  branches  of  it. 


t  Brackenridge. 


no.  r. 


In  page  41,  it  is  stated,  that  Col.  J.  Johnson ,  during  the  last 
session  of  congress,  obtained  the  exclusive  right  of  working  the 
lead  mines  in  the  northwestern  part  of  Illinois,  for  three  jears. 
This  statement  was  made  upon  authority  which  I  had  no  reason 
to  question.  From  the  following  documents,  however,  (which  I 
was  unable  to  obtain  until  after  the  above  was  printed,)  it  ap¬ 
pears,  that  on  this  subject  I  have  been  misinformed.  These  do¬ 
cuments  are  here  published,  not  only  because  they  correct  this 
error,  but  because  they  contain  much  valuable  information  con¬ 
cerning  the  lead  mines.  They  were  transmitted  from  the  ord¬ 
nance  department,  through  the  secretary  of  war  and  president 
of  the  United  States,  to  the  senate,  in  May,  1822. 

— o— 

Ordnance  Department,  May  3d,  1822. 

Sir:  In  obedience  to  your  directions,  I  have  the  honour  to 
submit  herewith  copies  of  all  the  documents  on  record  in  this 
office,  which  have  relation  to  the  lead  mine  lands  of  the  United 
States,  and  furnishing  all  the  information  called  for  by  the  se¬ 
nate  on  the  25th  of  April,  which  this  department  is  at  this  time 
enabled  to  give  upon  the  subject. 

The  papers  referred  to  are  as  follows  : 

Those  marked  A,  containing  the  letters  addressed  from  this 
office  to  the  persons  applying  for  leases  of  a  portion  of  the  above 
lands ;  with  instructions  to  sundry  officers,  issued  by  the  de¬ 
partment  of  war  and  this  office,  for  aiding  in  locating  and  sur¬ 
veying  the  lands  embraced  in  said  leases. 

That  marked  B,  being  a  copy  of  the  report  made  by  this  office 
to  the  department  of  war,  furnishing  all  the  information  received 
respecting  those  mine  lands  ;  with  the  proposal  of  a  plan  for 
rendering  them  more  productive  to  the  public  revenue. 

The  paper  marked  U,  containing  a  copy  of  a  conditional  lease, 
proposed  by  this  department  in  the  cases  of  Carneal  and  Johnson, 
and  others,  to  be  linally  acted  upon  hereafter. 

I  have  the  honour  to  be,  sir,  very  repectfully, 

Your  most  obedient  servant. 

G:  BOMFORD, 

Lieutenant  Colonel  on  ordnance  duty , 
Hon.  J.  C.  Calhoun,  Department  of  War . 

43 


338 


APPENDIX. 


A. 

Copies  of  letters  from  the  Ordnance  Department ,  in  relation  to  the 
Lead  Mine  Lands  of  the  United  States . 


Ordnance  Department,  January  4th,  1822. 

Sir  :  I  have  it  in  direction  from  the  honourable  the  secretary 
of  w  ar,  to  state  to  you,  that  he  has  had  under  consideration  the 
proposition  of  Messrs,  Carneal  and  Johnson,  for  leasing  from 
the  United  Slates  such  a  quantity  of  land  in  the  state  of  Illinois, 
as  the  government  may  he  disposed  to  grant,  for  the  purpose,  on 
their  part,  of  discovering  and  working  therein  the  lead  ore 
which  it  may  be  supposed  to  contain,  on  such  conditions  a9  may 
be  mutually  agreed  upon. 

That  the  secretary  is  disposed  to  encourage  the  proposal,  so 
far  as  to  allow  the  sail)  Uarneal  and  Johnson,  and  they  are 
hereby  authorised,  for  that  purpose,  to  proceed  in  the  selection 
of  such  a  tract  of  land,  to  the  amount  of  one  hundred  and  sixty 
acres,  in  the  said  state  of  Illinois,  as  they  may  judge  will  pro¬ 
mote  their  views. 

That  upon  such  selection,  they  shall  make  a  report  ofrhe 
same  to  the  department  of  war,  designatingthe  precise  situation, 
boundaries,  nature  of  the  soil,  and  other  particulars  necessary 
to  an  accurate  knowledge  thereof. 

That  upon  receiv  ing  such  report,  and  approval  thereof,  the 
proposition  will  be  taken  into  immediate  consideration. 

S  am  also  directed  to  inform  you,  that  in  want  of  accurate  in¬ 
formation  its  regard  to  the  present  situation  of  the  mine  lands  of 
the  United  States  generally  ;  and  in  order  also,  to  take  further 
time  to  examine  into  that  subject,  and  the  laws  and  regulations 
which  have  been  passed  in  relation  thereto,  the  government  does 
not  deem  it  expedient  to  do  any  thing  further  in  the  premises, 
than  the  permission  now  given  to  Messrs.  Uarneal  and  Johnson. 

lo  order,  however,  to  enable  them  to  form  a  judgment  of  the 
terms  and  conditions  upon  which  leases  will  in  future  he  grant¬ 
ed,  a  form  of  one  is  herewith  furnished,  and  according  to  which 
a  lease  will  be  granted  to  Messrs.  Uarneal  and  Johnson,  in  the 
event  of  their  proposal  being  finally  accepted,  of  which  there  can 
he  little  or  no  doubt,  from  the  understanding  which  has  already 
taken  place  on  the  subject. 

it  may  be  proper  to  add,  that  the  term  of  three  years  introdu¬ 
ced  into  the  form  of  a  lease,  now  furnished,  is  grounded  upon 
the  law  of  3d  March,  1807,  which  limits  the  duration  of  leases 
to  be  granted  by  the  president  of  the  United  States  to  that  peri¬ 
od  ;  hut  in  order  to  balance  any  disadr  antage  which' might  he 
expected  t<>  result  therefrom  to  the  lessees,  the  privilege  and  pre¬ 
ference  to  be  allowed  them  for  a  renewal  of  their  grants,  will  be 


APPENDIX. 


339 


so  as  an  encouragement  for  the  faithful  performance  of  their  en¬ 
gagements. 

Very  respectfully,  I  am,  sir,  &c. 

GEORGE  BOMFORD,  Lieut  Cot 

On  ordnance  duty . 

The  Hon.  R  M.  Johnson,  Senate  United  States . 

JVote.  A  similar  letter  was  addressed  to  Mr.  Johnson  on  the 
part  of  Messrs.  Suggett  and  Payne. 


Ordnance  Department,  February  1st .  1822, 

Silt  :  In  the  letter  which  I  addressed  to  you  on  the  4th  of  last 
month,  by  order  of  the  secretary  of  war,  and  which  communica¬ 
ted  the  outlines  of  a  lease  you  might  expect  to  be  given  to 
Messrs.  Caineal  and  Johnson,  and  to  Messrs.  Suggett  and 
Payne  as  soon  as  the  ground  was  selected,  I  stated  they  would 
be  at  liberty  to  locate  any  point  within  the  state  of  Illinois.  It 
is  since  concluded  not  to  limit  the  leases  to  that  boundary,  but 
to  extend  their  privilege  of  selection  to  any  point  between  the 
river  Mississippi  and  Lake  Michigan,  according  to  the  reserv  a¬ 
tions  and  treaties  of  the  United  States,  whether  the  same  be 
w  ithin  the  state  of  Illinois,  or  the  territory  of  Michigan  ;  and 
when  the  selection  shall  be  made,  the  parties  are  authorized  to 
proceed  to  work  the  lead  mines  which  may  be  discovered,  in 
conformity  with  the  former  stipulations. 

Very  respectfully,  &e. 

GEORGE  BOMFORD,  Lieut  Col 

On  ordnance  duty . 

Hon.  R,  M.  Johnson,  Senate  United  States. 


Ondnance  Department,  loth  February ,  1822. 

Sir  :  I  have  it  in  direction  from  the  honorable  the  secretary  of 
war,  to  state  to  you  that  measures  are  in  contemplation  requiring 
the  co-operation  of  this  department,  and  that  you  have  been  ap¬ 
pointed,  in  order  to  render  such  assistance  as  in  the  service  (here¬ 
in  more  fully  detailed)  shall  be  deemed  expedient  and  necessary. 

The  government,  through  the  department  of  war,  in  the  be¬ 
ginning  of  last  month,  gr  anted  conditional  leases  of  lands  in  the 
state  of  Illinois,  (supposed  to  contain  lead  ore,)  to  Messrs.  Car- 
neal  &  Johnson,  and  Messrs.  Suggett  &  Payne,  amounting  to 
160  acres  to  each  of  the  two  parties.  A  copy  of  those  condition¬ 
al  leases  is  herewith  furnished  to  you,  as  explaining  the  views 
of  government  in  regard  to  such  grants  in  general,  it  has  since, 
however,  been  determined  not  to  confine  the  locations  alluded  to, 
to  the  state  of  Illinois,  hut  to  extend  the  privilege  to  the  lands 
ceded  in  1816,  bv  the  Chippewas,  Oitawas,  and  Pottawatamies, 
as  is  more  fully  described  in  the  extracts  from  the  treaty  en¬ 
closed  to  you  herewith,  and  by  which  you  will  be  governed  on 


840 


APPENDIX. 


that  head.  You  will,  immediately  upon  the  receipt  of  this  order, 
prepare  yourself  to  meet  the  lessees  already  named,  on  or  about 
the  1st  of  March,  at  the  “  Great  Crossings”  of  Kentucky,  and 
proreed  with  them  in  exploring  the  country  where  the  locations 
are  likely  to  be  made  ;  and  when  the  sites  shall  he  determined 
o»»  by  the  lessees,  and  decisive  measures  taken  to  work  the  same, 
that  you  make?  or  cause  to  be  made,  accurate  surveys  thereof, 
designating  not  only  the  precise  situation  of  the  grounds,  but  of 
so  much  of  the  lands  and  country  immediately  adjoining,  and 
more  or  less  distant,  as  shall  convey  to  government,  accurate 
knowledge  of  the  whole  ;  furnishing  likewise  such  plats  or  maps 
as  may  serve  for  record  in  the  department  of  war. 

You  will  cause  flue  care  to  be  taken,  to  avoid  the  interfering, 
by  the  present  parties,  with  any  locations  or  works  on  lead  mine 
lands,  which  may  appear  already  established,  under  proper  au¬ 
thority  ;  but  as  the  old  leases  from  the  United  States  (within  the 
knowledge  of  the  department  of  war,)  have  expired,  few  or  none, 
it  is  believed,  can  arise.  A.  report,  however,  must  be  rendered 
of  every  discovery  that  shall  be  made  by  you,  or  the  parties 
with  w  hom  you  shall  be  acting,  of  all  lead  mines,  and  of  leases, 
if  any  thereof,  in  order  t  hat  government  may  be  enabled  to  grant 
proper  conveyances  in  future,  and  avoid  interfering  with  old 
rights  or  claims,  which  may  have  been  sanctioned  by  the  United 
States. 

You  will  also  take  every  step  which  shall  be  in  your  power,  to 
satisfy  any  inquiries  or  remonstrances  that  may  be  made  by  any 
of  the  India!)  tribes,  and  regular  settlers,  as  to  the  authority 
under  which  t he  present  lessees,  and  yourself,  shall  be  acting, 
and  of  the  views  of  government  generally,  giving,  jointly  with 
the  Indian  agent,  every  support  to  the  lessees  w  hich  shall  enable 
them  to  proceed  w  ithout  interruption  or  injury  in  their  contem¬ 
plated  locations  and  works. 

In  addition  to  this  aid,  it  is  contemplated  to  give  the  support 
and  countenance  that  may  be  derivable,  from  the  appearance  of 
a  small  portion  of  the  regular  troops,  whit  h  may  be  found  con¬ 
veniently  stationed  for  that  purpose  ;  in  w  hich  case  (their  being 
employed  at  all,)  you  will  act  according  to  the  orders  which 
may  have  been  given  by  the  department  of  war,  to  the  com¬ 
manding  officer,  and  to  the  nature  of  the  service,  in  which  you 
will  be  thus  mutually  engaged  ;  carefully  avoiding  all  hostile 
aggression  upon,  or  collision  with  the  Indian  tribes,  or  the  re¬ 
gular  settlers  and  miners. 

It  will  he  expected  and  required,  that  you  render  to  this  office 
a  monthly  report  of  your  proceedings,  and  oftener,  if  circum¬ 
stances  should  admit  thereof. 

An  extensive  field  for  observation  will  be  presented  to  you  in 
the  course  of  your  intended  operations,  of  which  it  will  be  ex¬ 
pected  that  you  will  take  every  practicable  opportunity  for  ob¬ 
taining  information  upon  all  points  relative  to  lead  mine  and 
mineral  lands  of  the  United  States,  that  may  prove  useful  to  the 


APPENDIX. 


341 


government,  in  the  prosec  ution  of  1  heir  future  views  and  mea¬ 
sures,  and  which,  if  performed  with  judgment  and  accuracy  on 
your  part,  may  tend  to  your  own  personal  advantage,  by  thus 
recommending  yourself  to  the  favourable  notice  of  your  govern¬ 
ment. 

Respectfully,  &c. 

GEORGE  ROMFORD, 

Lt .  Col.  on  ordnance  duty. 

Lieut.  Clark  Rfrdtne,  of  the  Artillery, 

On  ordnance  duty  at  Washington. 


Department  of  War,  February  1 3//i*  1822. 

Sir:  Conditional  leases  were  grantee  on  the  4th  January  ult. 
to  Messrs.  Carriea!  and  Johnson  and  to  Messrs.  Suggett  and 
Payne,  (all  of  Kentucky,)  for  160  acres  of  land  to  each  of  the 
two  parties,  to  he  located  in  the  «nue  of  Illinois,  (and  to  be  more 
precisely  described  hereafter,)  for  the  purpose  on  their  part  of 
working  any  lead  mines  winch  may  be  discovered  by  them  with¬ 
in  said  tract.  It  lias  since  been  agreed  that  the  said  location 
shall  not  be  confined  to  the  state  of  Illinois,  hut  that  the  pri\ ilege 
shall  be  extended  to  anv  part  of  the  lands  ceded  by  the  Ottawa, 
Chippewa,  and  Pottawatamie  tribes  or  nations  of  Indians,  to  the 
United  States,  at  St.  Louis,  on  the  24th  August,  1816,  conform¬ 
able  to  i he  treaty  herewith  enclosed.  Ami  you  are  hereby  re¬ 
quired  to  hold  yourself  in  readiness,  and  to  proceed  with  the 
before  mentioned  lessees,  whenever  they  shall  apply  to  you  for 
that  purpose,  to  the  lands  where  they  shall  expect  to  open  and 
work  the  lead  mines  contained  therein,  and  within  the  bounds  or 
extent  of  their  lease,  in  order  that  you  may  explain  to  the  In¬ 
dians  the  \iews  of  the  government  in  granting  the  said  leases  ; 
in  order  to  secure  to  the  persons  holding  the  same,  the  uninter¬ 
rupted  prosecution  of  their  location,  and  subsequent  works  and 
operations  therein. 

You  will  use  as  much  dispatch  in  the  performance  of  this  ser¬ 
vice  as  its  nature  may  admit,  and  transmit  to  this  department  an 
early  report  of  your  proceedings,  together  with  such  other  in¬ 
formation  iu  regard  to  the  particular  object  in  view,  and  of  the 
situation  of  other  lead  mines  discovered  and  worked  in  the  coun¬ 
tries  named  in  the  present  grant  or  lease,  as  may  prove  useful  to 
the  government  in  their  future  views  and  operations  in  that 
quarter. 

Respectfully,  &c. 

J U HN  C.  CALHOUN. 

Thomas  Forsyth,  Esq.  Indian  Agent,  St  Louis,  Missouri. 

Note. — Similar  letters  were  addressed  to  Alexander  Woolcott, 
jun.  and  Nicholas  JBoilvin,  Indian  agents  on  the  Mississippi. 


342 


appendix:. 


Ordnance  Department.  April  1 5th9  1822. 

Sir  :  The  applications  addressed  to  you  hy  Messrs.  Duff, 
Green  and  others  of  Missouri,  for  leases  of  lead  mine  lands 
from  the  United  States,  and  communicated  by  you  to  the  Hon. 
secretary  of  war,  have  been  laid  by  him  before  this  department* 
in  v\hose  charge  the  issuing  of  such  leases,  under  the  sanction  of 
the  department  of  war  and  the  president  of  the  United  States,  has 
recently  been  placed. 

J  have  therefore  the  honour  to  state  to  you,  for  your  informa¬ 
tion,  that  until  the  business  of  the  lead  mine  lands  can  be  revived 
under  new  and  better  regulations,  and  more  full  and  direct  in¬ 
formation  attained  in  regard  thereto,  (and  for  which  measures 
are  now  taking.)  the  government  has  concluded  to  grant  leases 
of  small  extent,  say  160  acres  of  land  to  each  applicant  or  com¬ 
pany,  on  certain  privileges  and  conditions,  the  principal  of  which 
are  :  To  continue  for  three  years,  the  two  first  to  be  free  from 
rent,  and  on  the  third  a  rent  of  one  tenth  of  the  mineral  raised  to 
be  paid  to  government ;  the  lessees  to  have  the  privilege  of  wood 
to  erec  t  their  works,  use  of  water,  &c,  usual  in  such  cases,  to  be 
paid  at  a  certain  valuation  for  the  improvements  they  shall  have 
made  at  the  close  of  the  lease,  if  not  removed  by  them,  on  the 
land  located  and  worked  ;  the  selection  of  the  land  and  the  com¬ 
mencement  of  the  works  (of  mining)  to  be  within  nine  months 
from  the  date  of  the  lease,  under  penalty  of  forfeiture  thereof, 
and  no  sub-lease^  allowable. 

Should  you  think  proper  to  desire  leases  for  the  applicants 
now  named,  this  office  will  be  prepared,  under  the  direction  of 
the  secretary  of  war,  to  take  such  measures  as  may  be  deemed 
requisite. 

Very  respectfully,  &c. 

GEOKGE  BOMFOKD, 

Lt.  Col  on  ordnance  duty. 

Hon.  N.  Edwards,  Senate  United  States. 


Ordnance  Department,  April  20th,  1822. 

Sir  :  Your  letter  to  this  department  of  the  18th  inst  request¬ 
ing  that  leases  of  lead  mine  lands  may  be  issued  to  Messrs. 
Green  and  Estis,  of  Missouri,  is  received. 

i  have  it  in  direction  to  state  to  you,  that  previous  to  making 
an  absolute  lease  of  the  lands,  it  will  be  expedient,  in  the  present 
want  of  accurate  information  as  to  the  precise  situation  of  the 
mines,  and  adjacent  country  where  they  wish  to  make  their  lo¬ 
cation,  that  they  fix  upon  the  sites,  which  shall  not  interfere 
with  any  previous  grants  or  leases  legally  given  and  establish¬ 
ed  ;  that  they  cause  a  regular  survey  to  be  made  of  the  quantity 
of  land,  (160  acres  each)and  a  plat  or  map  of  the  same  be  trans¬ 
mitted  to  this  office,  duly  certified  hy  an  United  States’  survey¬ 
or  ;  upon  the  receipt  of  which,  they  will  be  laid  without  delay 


APPENDIX. 


343 


before  the  secretary  of  war  for  examination.  The  documents 
received  from  the  general  land  office  leave  this  department  in 
doubt  as  to  the  topographical  and  geographical  lines  and  limits 
of  the  mine  lands  belonging  to  the  United  States  ;  and  until  an 
agent  or  agents  shall  have  been  appointed  to  ascertain  those 
points*  and  others  connected  therewith,  this  department  can  do 
no  more  than  grant  this  general  authority  for  location,  to  he 
thereafter  acted  upon,  when  the  same  shall  have  been  regularly 
reported  for  confirmation. 

Very  respectfully.  &c. 

GEORGE  ROMFORD, 

Lt  Col.  on  ordnance  duty. 


Hon.  N.  Edwards,  Senate  United  States. 

Ordnance  Department.  May  3d,  1822. 

I  certify  the  foregoing  to  be  true  copies  from  the  original  re¬ 


cords  of  this  ollice. 


GEORGE  BOM FORD, 
Lt.  Col.  on  ordnance  duty . 


B. 

Reportfrom  the  Ordnance  Department  to  the  Honourable  Secretary 
of  War ,  respecting  the  Lead  Mines  of  the  United  Stutes. 

Ordnance  Department,  30 th  March ,  1822. 

Sir  :  Conformably  to  your  directions,  I  have  bad  under  ex¬ 
amination  the  papers  received  from  the  general  land  office,  which 
have  a  relation  to  lead  mine  lands  of  the  United  States,  and  re¬ 
spectfully  beg  leave  to  offer  the  following  report  thereon. 

Those  papers  or  documents  were  found  to  consist  of  communi¬ 
cations  (letters  and  reports)  of  unconnected  series,  from  the 
public  agents  of  the  United  States  to  the  treasury  department ; 
copies  of  petitions  for  grants,  and  of  leases  made  thereon;  and 
decisions  of  the  commissioners  of  the  United  States  on  old 
claims  ;  together  with  other  miscellaneous  papers  ;  from  which 
a  regular  account  cannot  be  given  of  those  lands  and  mines,  or 
of  afl  the  proceedings,  public  and  private,  which  have  formerly 
taken  place  respecting  them. 

The  latest  dates  of  any  of  the  papers  are  of  the  year  1817,  hut 
the  greater  part  are  of  a  much  earlier  period.  No  hooks  of  re¬ 
cords  of  leases  made,  or  proceedings  of  commissioners  and 
agents,  or  of  moneys  or  mineral  received  or  expended,  have  ac¬ 
companied  the  papers  received. 

From  those  documents,  however,  it  would  appear,  that  lead 
ore  is  computed  to  commence  at  Mine  a  la  Motte,  in  the  county 
of  St.  Genevieve,  Missouri,  extending  in  a  northern  direction 
as  far  as  Mine  a  Dubuque,  below  Prairie  du  Cliien,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Mississippi,  and  probably  across  the  river  at  that 


344 


APPENDIX. 


place,  averaging  in  breadth  about  25  miles  from  cast  to  west ; 
that  most  of  the  mines  worked  were  in  Washington  county,  St. 
Louis  district,  about  35  miles  south  of  the  river  Missouri,  their 
extent  about  50  miles  in  circumference.  Those  particularly 
noted  arc  :  Mine  a  Burton,  near  the  centre  of  them,  (the  whole 
number  is  stated  ai  33  to  45 ;)  Mine  a  la  Motte,  the  most  ex¬ 
tensive  in  the  range,  and  in  Madison  county  ;  Shibboleth  Mines, 
discovered  in  1811,  and  very  productive.  (A  Mr.  Smith  was  a 
claimant  for  a  part,  and  also  a  Mr.  Lebeautne.)  Mine  Renault, 
Bryan’s  Mines,  and  Mine  a  Martin. 

In  addition  :  Mines  a  Dubuque,  very  extensive  and  rich, 
within  the  territory  attached  to  the  state  of  Missouri,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Mississippi,  below  Prairie  du  Chien,  the  title  to 
which  appears  to  have  remained  unsettled,  being  claimed  by 
heirs  or  assignees  of  Dubuque,  and  by  A.  Chouteau  ;  and  great 
injury  is  supposed  to  have  resulted  to  the  United  States,  from 
those  and  other  claims  not  having  been  satisfactorily  adjusted 
by  the  former  commission©**^ 

Mines  of  lesser  magnitude  were  worked  in  various  sections 
of  the  late  Missouri  territory,  and  other  districts  on  the  Missis¬ 
sippi,  of  the  actual  value  or  proceeds  of  which  there  appears  no 
precise  or  authentic  accounts  from  the  papers  received.  There 
are  also  in  the  state  of  Illinois,  numerous  mine  lands,  and  chiefly 
in  the  district  ceded  by  the  Sac  and  Fox  Indians,  some  of  them 
contiguous  to  the  Rock  river,  and  others  nearly  bordering  upon 
the  Mississippi ;  others  within  the  United  States’  reservation  in 
the  southeast  part  of  that  state.  Recent  verbal  information,  from 
respectable  authority,  also  states  the  existence  of  lead  mines  in 
that  part  between  the  southern  boundary  of  Lake  Michigan  and 
the  river  Mississippi,  ceded  in  1816  by  the  Ottawa,  Chippewa, 
and  Pottauatarnie  nations  or  tribes  of  Indians,  to  the  United 
States.  In  addition,  all  the  accounts  agree  in  representing  that 
new  discoveries  of  lead  mines  were  continually  making,  and 
many,  it  was  supposed,  were  kept  secret,  until  purchases  of  the 
lands  could  he  made  of  the  United  States. 

The  towns  of  Burton  and  Potosi  were  the  principal  settle¬ 
ments  in  the  Missouri  mine  tracts.  Herculaneum,  on  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi,  35  miles  from  the  Mine  a  Burton,  and  Genevieve,  lower 
dow  n  the  river,  were  the  principal  places  of  depot  of  lead  for 
transportation. 

The  leases  w  hich  appear  to  have  been  formerly  granted,  have 
expired  ;  and  it  is  stated  by  respectable  persons,  that  there  are 
at  present  no  mines  know  n  to  be  worked  in  any  of  the  mining 
districts,  under  any  regular  leases  or  authority  ;  but  that  many 
in  the  last  year  were  worked  in  the  state  of  Missouri,  without 
such  authority,  and  chiefly  by  new  settlers  and  emigrants. 

Of  the  value  of  the  mines,  it  may  he  noticed,  that  Mine  a  Bur¬ 
ton  was  computed  to  yield  about  500,000  pounds  of  mineral  per 
annum  ;  and  that  the  Shibboleth  mines  might  have  been  made 
to  produce  to  the  United  States  about  Si  0,000  per  annum.  Mr. 


appendix. 


345 


Schoolcraft,  in  more  recent  accounts,  states  the  receipts  of  lead 
from  the  mines  as  probably  rising  beyond  three  millions  of 
pounds  per  annum,  (from  the  mines  of  Missouri,)  and  Iris  verbal 
information,  given  at  this  office  since,  rates  the  receipts  of  1821 
at  a  much  greater  amount. 

The  lessees  of  mining  lands,  it  was  stated  by  one  of  the  in¬ 
formants  of  the  treasury  department,  had  not  been  properly  sup¬ 
ported  by  government;  having  been  constantly  involved  in  law 
suits  and  disputes  with  claimants  under  old  Spanish  grants,  and 
by  intruders,  which  proved  often  ruinous  to  their  undertakings. 

From  the  various  evidence  adduced,  there  can  be  no  doubt  but 
that  all  the  mines  might  be  made  more  and  greatly  productive 
under  new  and  better  regulations.  There  does  not  appear, 
among  the  papers  now  produced,  any  account  of  what  has  been 
the  actual  receipt,  by  the  United  States,  of  the  mineral  raised 
from  the  numerous  discoveries  of  lands  producing  it ;  and  in¬ 
deed  it  would,  on  the  contrary,  appear  that  no  rents  have  been 
received  from  them.  The  value  of  those  lands  and  mines  cannot 
therefore  be  estimated  but  from  general  information,  as  already 
given  in  this  report.  Many  of  those  which  have  been  worked, 
are  supposed  to  be  inexhaustible ;  and  suitable  encouragement 
in  future  would,  there  can  be  no  doubt,  lead  to  additional  and 
equally  valuable  discoveries.  Among  other  means  which  might 
be  devised  for  rendering  the  mine  lands  more  productive  to  the 
United  States,  I  would  respectfully  suggest  the  following: 

An  agent  or  commissioner  to  be  appointed  and  established  in 
a  central  position,  for  the  principal  mining  districts  ;  empower¬ 
ed  to  grant  new  leases,  to  hear  all  complaints,  and  fully  author¬ 
ised  to  give  prompt  redress,  and  to  act  as  a  general  guardian  of 
the  whole  public  domains;  that  he  should  be  accompanied  by  a 
competent  commissioned  officer,  in  order  to  make  surveys  of  the 
mining  lands,  which  should  be  found  to  belong  to  the  U.  States, 
and  of  new  discoveries  ;  and  to  make  frequent  and  regular  re¬ 
ports  of  such  surveys,  and  every  other  information  obtained,  as 
to  the  quantity  of  mineral  produced.  The  agent  to  be  charged 
with  keeping  an  office  of  record  of  all  leases  and  surveys. 

Large  leases,  or  monopolies  of  large  tracts  of  mining  lands  to 
be  prohibited,  by  granting  them  in  small  parcels  of  160  to  200 
acres  :  it  having  been  discovered  that  they  have  formerly  been 
issued  in  tracts  of  several  thousand  acres,  and  that  no  beneficial 
effects  had  resulted  from  such  an  extension. 

The  duration  of  the  leases  to  be  agreeably  to  the  law  of  1807, 
lor  three  years  ;  the  two  first  to  be  free  from  rent,  and  the  lessee 
to  have  the  privilege  and  preference  (on  his  having  duly  com¬ 
plied  with  its  stipulations,)  of  renewal  at  the  expiration  of  bis 
lease,  which  provision  would  serve  as  an  encouragement  to  work 
the  mines  without  waste  ;  and  leases  should  become  void  if  not 
worked  within  nine  months  from  the  date  thereof. 

The  lessee  to  be  debarred  from  underletting  or  transferring 

44 


346 


APPENDIX. 


any  part  of  the  lands  leased  to  him,  under  the  penalty  of  forfeit¬ 
ure  of  sue h  lease. 

The  improvements  made  by  the  lessee  (buildings,  works,  &c.) 
to  be  repaid  by  government,  or  the  succeeding  lessee,  at  a  fair 
valuation  ;  but  the  United  States  not  to  pay,  in  any  rase,  more 
than  one  half  the  produce  of  the  rent  which  shall  have  been  ac¬ 
tually  received. 

The  rate  of  annual  rent  to  be  one  tenth  of  nett  proceeds,  to  be 
paid  in  mineral,  clean  and  prepared  for  smelting,  or  an  equiva¬ 
lent,  in  lead,  quarterly  or  semi-annually,  at  some  convenient 
place  of  depot,  to  the  agent  empowered  by  government. 

The  United  States  to  have  the  privilege  of  inspecting,  through 
its  agent,  from  time  to  time,  the  progress  making  by  the  lessees 
in  their  works,  receiving  an  account  of  their  produce  ;  and  to 
enforce,  if  necessary,  a  compliance  with  their  engagements. 

That  security  be  required  for  the  faithful  performance  of  all 
leases. 

That  as  soon  as  the  loading  or  general  information  now  col¬ 
lecting  and  arranging  by  this  office,  shall  bo  consolidated,  lessees 
be  invited  by  public  advertisement  throughout  the  United  States, 
upon  the  preceding  conditions  ;  in  order  that  full  information 
may  be  afforded,  and  a  fair  competition  excited  for  rendering 
the  mine  lands  of  the  United  States  productive,  in  the  highest 
practicable  degr  ee,  to  the  public  revenue. 

I  beg  leave  to  add,  that  this  report  would  have  been  prepared 
sooner,  hut  from  the  expectation  of  collecting,  from  other  sources 
than  the  documents  alluded  to,  some  additional  information  ;  and 
that  the  officer  recently  sent  from  this  department  with  your 
sanction  to  the  mine  land  districts  in  Illinois,  will  probably  fur¬ 
nish,  within  a  few  months,  such  further  intelligence  as  may  serve 
as  a  surer  guide  to  future  operations 

Respectfully  submitted, 

GEORGE  ROMFORD, 
Lt.  Colonel  on  ordnance  duty . 

To  the  Hon.  J.  C.  Calhoun,  Department  of  War . 

Ordnance  Department,  3d  May,  1822. 

I  certify  the  foregoing  to  be  a  true  copy  from  the  original  re¬ 
port  rendered  to  the  department  of  war. 

GEORGE  ROMFORD, 
Lt.  Colonel  on  ordnance  duty. 


C. 

Form  of  a  Lease  of  Mine  Lands,  proposed  by  the  Ordnance  Depart¬ 
ment,  in  the  case  of  Car  neat  and  Johnson. 

This  Indenture,  made  and  entered  into  this - day  of - 

1822,  between - ,  agent  for  the  government  of  the  United 


APPENDIX. 


347 


States,  of  the  one  part,  and  Thomas  D.  Carneal  and  Benjamin 
Johnson,  of  the  state  of  Kentucky,  of  the  other  part,  Witness- 
cth,  That  the  said  agent,  as  aforesaid,  for  and  in  consideration 
of  the  rents,  covenants,  and  agreements  hereinafter  mentioned, 
doth  by  these  presents  grant,  demise,  lease,  and  to  farm  let  unto 
the  said  Carneal  and  Johnson,  their  heirs  and  representatives, 
one  hundred  and  sixty  acres  of  land,  the  property  of  the  United 
States,  lying  and  being  in  the  state  of  Illinois,  and  in  the  vicinity 
of  Rock  river,  to  be  more  particularly  located  as  hereinafter 
mentioned.  To  have  and  to  hold  the  said  land  and  premises, 
with  its  appurtenances,  unto  the  said  Carneal  and  Johnson,  their 
heirs  and  legal  representatives,  for  the  full  term  of  three  years 
from  and  after  the  time  the  said  land  shall  be  designated,  and 
the  mining  arid  manufacturing  of  the  lead  therein  commenced 
by  said  Carneal  and  Johnson,  their  heirs,  &c.  upon  the  consi¬ 
derations  following,  to  wit :  That  the  said  Carneal  and  Johnson 
shall,  during  the  continuance  of  the  aforesaid  term  of  three  years, 
be  at  liberty  to  dig  for,  and  take  from  any  part  of  the  said  land, 
as  much  lead  ore  as  they  may  think  lit;  also  to  erect  thereon 
such  buildings  and  works  for  the  manufacture  of  lead,  and  for 
the  accommodation  of  those  who  shall  be  engaged  in  the  esta¬ 
blishment,  as  in  their  opinion  the  success  of  the  undertaking 
may  require.  Said  improvements  to  be  valued  at  the  termination 
of  this  lease,  and  to  be  paid  for  by  the  United  States,  or  by  the 
subsequent  lessee,  if  rented  to  any  other  than  the  said  Carneal 
and  Johnson  :  Provided,  that  the  United  States  shall  not  payr 
more  for  said  improvements  than  one  half  of  the  amount  of  lead 
which  shall  have  been  previously  received  by  government  on 
said  lease.  Secondly  :  'Chat  inasmuch  as  the  precise  ground 
cannot  he  selected  at  this  moment,  it  is  hereby  covenanted  and 
agreed  between  the  parties  aforesaid,  that  the  said  Carneal  and 
Johnson  shall  make  a  selection  of  the  precise  ground  they  mean 
to  occupy,  and  commence  the  working  of  the  lead  mines  upon 
said  land  within  the  period  of  nine  months  from  this  date  ;  and 
upon  failure  to  make  such  selection  and  to  commence  such  work 
within  the  time  herein  prescribed,  this  lease  shall  be  null  and 
void.  Third  :  That  said  Carneal  and  Johnson  shall  have  the 
benefit  of  said  mines  for  the  term  of  two  years,  free  from  the 
payment  of  any  rent  whatever  ;  and  said  Carneal  and  Johnson 
engage  and  bind  themselves  and  heirs  to  pay  to  said  agent  afore¬ 
said,  or  to  his  order,  or  to  the  order  of  the  government,  one 
tenth  part  of  all  the  mineral  which  shall  be  collected  from  said 
mine  or  mines  of  lead  during  the  third  year  of  this  lease,  quar¬ 
terly  or  otherwise,  as  said  agent  or  t  lie  government  may  require, 
the  mineral  to  be  clean  and  prepared  for  smelting,  to  be  deliver¬ 
ed  at  the  works  upon  the  land,  to  said  agent,  or  any  agent  of  the 
government.  Fourth:  That  the  said  Carneal  and  Johnson  shall 
lie  at  liberty  to  clear,  enclose,  and  cultivate  any  part  of  said 
land,  from  whence  the  wood  shall  have  been  taken  lor  said  lead 

works  :  but  thev  shall  cut  no  limber  but  what  shall  be  necessary 
*  * 


348 


APPENDIX. 


for  buildings,  fencing,  and  the  operation  of  said  manufactory  ; 
and  generally  shall  commit  no  waste.  Fifth  :  That  the  said 
Carneal  and  Johnson  engage  to  render  to  said  agent,  or  the  go¬ 
vernment,  a  quarterly  account  of  all  the  minerals  raised  ai  the 
digging  or  diggings  in  which  they  may  engage.  Sixth  :  The 
United  States  shall  at  all  times  have  the  privilege  of  inspecting 
the  operations  and  books  and  papers  relative  to  working  said 
mines,  or  any  of  them,  by  the  said  Carneal  and  Johnson,  on  the 
lands  aforesaid,  to  ascertain  the  quantity  of  lead  manufactured 
by  them,  or  to  demand  a  compliance  with  all  the  conditions  sti¬ 
pulated  herein. 

It  is  also  hereby  conditioned  between  the  parties,  that  this 
lease  shall  not  in  any  manner  interfere  with  any  previous  lease, 
if  such  lease  should  be  in  operation,  otherwise  that  said  Carneal 
and  Johnson  have  the  right  to  make  the  location  of  the  said  one 
hundred  and  sixty  acres  of  land,  and  when  so  located,  the  same 
shall  be  meted  and  bounded  by  the  agent  of  the  government  of 
the  United  States,  whenever  lie  shall  be  sent  for  that  purpose, 
and  his  report  of  the  metes  and  bounds  shall  be  the  boundary  of 
said  Carneal  and  Johnson.  It  is  further  expressly  stipulated 
ami  agreed  upon  between  the  contracting  parties  hereto,  that 
the  said  Carneal  and  Johnson  shall  not  in  any  manner  make 
sub  leases  of  the  premises,  under  the  penalty  of  a  forfeiture  of 
the  lease  ;  and  it  is  also  expressly  agreed  and  stipulated,  that 
the  said  Carneal  and  Johnson  shall  have  the  privilege  or  right 
to  renew  the  lease  at  the  termination  of  the  three  years  as  afore¬ 
said,  and  the  said  agent  agrees  to  give  the  preference  to  said 
Carneal  and  Johnson,  for  said  renewal,  over  all  other  persons  ; 
proxided  the  stipulations  and  conditions  of  this  lease  be  complied 
with  by  said  Carneal  and  Johnson. 

Signed,  sealed,  &c,  &c. 


i 


NO.  II. 

LISTS  OF  HOADS  AND  DISTANCES  FROM  ST.  LOUIS. 

From  St.  Louis  to  Washington  City. 


Graham’s  1 6 

Thompson’s,  [Shoal  creek]  25 
Ka.-kaskia  river  9 

Young’s  20 

Brinberry’s  20 

Little  Wabash  20 

Fox  river  10 

Gatewood’s  J  2 

Higgins’s  10 

Vincennes  15 

Liverpool  22 

S holt’s  on  E.fork White  riv.  18 
French  lick  12 

Chambers’s  16 

Davis’s  16 

Louisville  19 

Middletown  12 

Caplinger’s  14 

New-Castle  14 

Simpson’s  ferry  [Ky.  riv.]  12 
Eagle  creek,  [Sanders’s]  1 1 
Stewart’s  1 5 

Big  Bone  10 

Covington, opposite  Cincin.  20 
Columbia  6 

Newtown  4 

Batavia  10 

Williamsburg  6 

Florence  12 

New- Market  10 

Willis’s  22 

Bainbridge  6 

Denny’s  8 

Chillicothe  10 

M’Coy’s  6 

Craig’s  6 

Pursley’s  1 1 

New- Lancaster  11 

Canaway’s  8 


Beard’s 

10 

Zanesville 

12 

Brown’s 

9 

Morrison’s 

5 

Spear’s 

4 

Will’s  creek 

3 

Henry  Beamer’s 

6 

Smith’s 

6 

Wherry’s 

5 

Enlow’s 

8 

M’ Donald’s 

9 

St.  Clairsville 

•v 

4 

Wheeling 

10 

Reefer’s 

6 

Alexandria 

10 

M’Cracken’s 

7 

Washington 

10 

Cannonsburg 

7 

Pittsburg  (Total  to  P.  662)  18 

Findley’s 

9 

Ginger  Hill 

11 

Brownsville 

13 

Uniontown 

12 

Stark’s 

6 

Clemment’s 

6 

Clark’s  [forks  of  roads] 

4 

Smith’s,  at  Bridge 

7 

Bough’s 

1 

Simpkins’s 

7 

Tomlinson’s 

11 

Musselman’s 

10 

G win’s  [forks  of  the  road] 

5 

Crissapstown 

4 

Franktbrd 

9 

Springfield 

6 

Coxe’s 

9 

Gale’s 

6 

Higgins’s,  at  Great  creek 

5 

Rogers’s 

6 

350 


APPENDIX. 


Ronomie’s 

O 

Pewton 

6 

'Winchester 

9 

Charlestown 

22 

Key’s  ferry 

5 

Hillsborough 

8 

Lacey’s 

8 

Leesburgh 

6 

Hummer’s 

12 

From  St. 

Louis  to  F 

St.  Charles 

20 

Counts 

9 

Pond  Fort 

12 

Journey’s 

15 

Camp  Branch 

12 

Williamson’s 

15 

Loutre  lick 

7 

Ward’s 

14 

Watson’s 

6 

Cedar  creek 

20 

Willey’s 
Fall's  church 
Potomac  Bridge 
Georgetown 
W  ashington  City 
Total  from  P.  to  W.  C.  254 
miles — from  St.  Louis  to 
W.  C.  916  miles. 


10 

6 

8 


EstelPs 
Gray  urn’s 
Thrall’s 
Arnold’s 
Franklin 
Chariton 
Ferril’s  ferry 
Fort  Osage 


Total 


4 
10 
10 

5 
15 
22 
12 
69 

276 


From  St.  Louis  to  the  Falls  of  Missouri,  and  thence  to  the  Pacific 

Ocean . 


St.  Charles 

20 

Gasconade  river 

79 

Osage  river 

33 

Manitou  river 

51 

Kansas  river 

158 

River  Platte 

260 

Bend  of  the  river 

209 

Big  Sioux  river 

44 

White  Stone  river 

65 

Upper  part  of  great  bend 

284 

Fort  Marnlan 

398 

( 

Little  Missouri  river  90 

Yellow  Stone  river  190 

Portage  at  great  falls  695 

Dividing  ridge  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  68 

Clark’s  liver  104 

Columbia  river  168 

Lewis’s  river  73 

Great  falls  of  Columbia  306 

Pacific  ocean  261 

Total  3556 - . 


From  St.  Louis  to  Shawneetown, 


Mrs.  Ford’s 

20 

Jordan’s 

40 

Prairie  du  Roc  her 

25 

Saline 

25 

Kaskaskia 

15 

Shawneetown 

25 

Bower  in  au’s 

16 

d  mm 

, 

Cox’s 

20  j 

Total 

186 

APPENDIX. 


351 


From  St.  Louis  to  New- Orleans,  bij  Nashville9  Tenn . 


Mrs.  Ford’s  20 

Prairie  da  Rocher  25 

Kaskaskia  15 

Bower  man’s  16 

Cox’s,  at  Beaucoup  20 

Jackson’s,  at  Little  Muddy  12 
Big  Muddy  12 

Griffith’s  16 

Simpson’s,  on  Big  Bay  22 
Ferguson’s  old  ferry  20 

Salem  in  Ky.  15 

Centreville  9 

Mrs.  Prince’s  16 

Hopkinsville  2  7 

Level’s  15 

West’s  17 

Nashville  32 

Franklin  18 

Bond’s  8 

Elisha  Rhodes’s  14 

Dr.  Gordon’s  10 

Keg  spring  8 

Dobbins’s  9 

Grinder’s  [line]  6 

M’Clish’s  3 

Indian  house  13 

Factor’s  son  5 

Indian  house  5 

ditto  14 

ditto  4 

ditto  6 

G.  Colbert’s  [T.]  10 

Levi  Colbert’s  7 

Underwood’s,  b.  c.  5 

Good  spring  12 

Tushcacuta  12 

Brown’s  6 

Ahbachatubbe  15 

Factor’s  4 

Indian  house  3 

Glover’s  2 

Jefferson’s  11 


Fulcher’s 

1 

Kenpe’s 

3 

Aih-n  or  Colbert’s 

8 

M’ Gee’s 

8 

G.  Petti  grove’s 

8 

Perry’s  son 

T 

4 

Underwood’s 

10 

W  all’s  line 

8 

Folsom’s  jr. 

11 

Bla<  k’s 

5 

Mitchell’s 

8 

Nelson’s 

o 

M’ Curdy’s 

3 

Leo.  La  Fleur’s 

7 

Harkin  or  Long’s 

5 

M’  Comen’s 

6 

Ruchannan’s 

t 

M.  La  Fleur’s 

1 

Shoat’s 

12 

Anderson’s 

6 

Cranden’s 

12 

N  orton’s 

14 

Kenney’s 

12 

Ward’s 

4 

Brashier’s 

14 

Dinsmore’s 

4 

Osborne’s 

8 

Burrows’s 

10 

Hay’s 

5 

M’Raven’s  [line] 

26 

Robinson’s 

9 

Grindstone  Ford 

9 

Gibson  Port 

8 

Trimble’s 

9 

Greenville 

12 

Union  Town 

6 

Seltzer’s  Town 

6 

Washington 

6 

Natchez 

6 

Total  to  Natchez  819 


From  St.  Louis  to 

Marine  settlement 
Greenville 


Vandalia,  the  capital  of  Illinois. 

Van  dal  ia  ig 

Total  65 - 


25 

22 


APPENDIX 


/ 

I 


From,  St.  Louis  to  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  by  water. 


Illinois  river  SO 

Salt  river  103 

Hurricane  settlement  36 

Riviere  ties  Moines  64 

U.  S  Agricultural  estab.  16 

Sa<’  village  and  prairie  40 

Largest  Sac  village  100 

Rock  river  1 

Lead  mines  127 

Turkey  river  25 

Ouisconsin  river  68 

Upper  Iowa  river  40  j 

Lake  Pepin  121  | 


Falls  of  St.  Anthony  102 

Dickson’s  wint.  ground  122 

Pike’s  blockhouse  71 

River  de  Corbeau  64 

Pine  river  72 

1st  settlemt.  of  N.  W.  Co.  20 
2d  do.  do.  81 

3d  do.  do.  40 

Falls  of  Pakagama  15 

Lake  Winnipeck  45 

U.  Cedar  lake  and  set¬ 
tlement  of  N.  VV.  Co.  15 

Total  1418 - 


From  St.  Louis  to  Fort  Clark  on  the  Illinois  river ,  by  water. 


Mouth  of  the  Missouri  20 

Mouth  of  the  Illinois  25 

Evelin’s  25 

Apple  creek  24 

Robison  trading  house  12 

M’&ee’s  creek  22 


Hens’  trading  house,  near 
mouth  of  Crooked  creek  24 


Moreau’s  trading  house  24 

Otter  creek  6 

Constant  trading  house  1 8 

Fort  Clark  45 

Total  245 - 


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